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You will need a sheet of copper metal, a saw blade, a block of wood and a metal clamp. Using a scribe you can carve into the metal the shape that you want your enamel to be. Keeping the saw vertical, move it up and down to cut. Make sure to not turn it sharply or else the saw blade could snap.

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Next, use a wood clamp to get a firm hold on your metal. This will make it easier to smooth out the edges.

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With your piece of metal in the clamp, rub the edges of your metal along the file. This will smooth out the rough edges from the saw and make the project look cleaner.

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For the next step you will need one or two paper towels, your metal, and a piece of sandpaper. Making sure not to touch the metal with your bare hands, use the sandpaper to sand down the surface of both sides. This is important because it cleans the metal of any oil, dust, or fingerprints. These contaminants could prevent the enamel from adhering to the metal and could cause it to crack.

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After you have cleaned your metal, use the kiln fire glue to cover the side of the metal that you want the enamel on.

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Now you should pick which color you want to have as a base coat. You can use an opaque or transparent enamel, but i recommend an opaque so that the base is a solid color. Taping the sifter, make sure that you evenly coat it and cover the edges/corners.

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Next, place your enamel on a stand making sure not to touch it. Use a long metal tool, like the one pictured, to place your enamel in the kiln.

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It is important to open and close the kiln door quickly so that the temperature doesn't drop. The kiln should be around 1400-1500 degrees for enameling.

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After about 2 minutes, take your enamel out using the metal stick.

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Place your enamel on a block to cool for a few minutes. Make sure not to touch the enamel or wire stand (It's very hot!).

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Next, you will need to use a rolling mill and 22 gage copper wire. Make sure that the mill is set so that the wire will flatten when it runs through.

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Your wire should look like a thin wall.

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After shaping your wire into the design you want (you can do this by hand or use various tools to help), cover your metal in glue. Placing the wires where you want them, the flue will help keep the wires in place.

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Repeat the process of putting the enamel in the kiln. After about two minutes, the wires should be firmly held in the enamel. Make sure to let your project cool again!

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This tool will help us create smaller designs using enamel. One end is flattened into a spoon-like shape, the other end is tapered into a point, and the middle has a hot twist.

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After covering the metal with glue, use this tool to fill your metal design with enamel. There are many different techniques you can use with enamel.

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I lightly shaded with opaque pink and blue from my open wire. I also used multiple colors to create contrast. The pink and blue colors popped out from each other and the black base. You can mix the dry enamel with water to make placing the enamel easier.

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When you have finished your design, place your enamel in the kiln again.

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My enamel created an almost electric-looking design. The blue and pink shading against the black back gives my enamel more character. If the wires still stick out of the enamel, you should file them down.

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I recommend practicing different techniques and designs on scrap metal before starting your projects. Enameling allows for so much variation and creativity in what you do with it. Here are some extra resources to add to your enameling knowledge:
http://riograndeblog.com/enameling-103-metal-preparation/
http://musickstudio.com/process.htm

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I think this was a success for my first project. If i went back and redid it i think that i could make the soldering job cleaner.

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I really enjoyed the concept behind this project. The hardest part was definitely sawing the designs with all of the bends and curves.

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The hardest part of this project was making sure that the flips were facing the right direction. I am really happy with how the curled ends turned out.

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My favorite part of this project was using sandpaper to highlight the twist. Tapering the ends was the hardest part, but I am happy with how it turned out.

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This was my most successful project and I am really happy with how it turned out. The hardest part was definitely fitting the bezel around the cast.

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I had some difficulties at first with the wire placement, but I decided to incorporate it into the design with shading. I am happy with how the colors turned out.