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HELMUT LANG AT MAK VIENNA by

MAJA MEHLE.

I applied for £250 to visit the Helmut Lang exhibition at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK) in Vienna. My main objective was to examine Helmut Lang’s garments in person and investigate their construction, finishing, and materiality. I was particularly interested in whether garment-making itself functioned as a design language within Lang’s practice, and how garment-construction methods communicated ideas beyond silhouette, styling, or image.

My interest in Helmut Lang is relatively recent. For much of my education and early career, I paid little attention to his work. This was mostly shaped by my own background.

I grew up in Yugoslavia, later Slovenia, where access to fashion was limited, and clothing was relatively homogeneous. If you wanted a pair of jeans or a T-shirt that was different from those worn by everyone else, it often had to be bought or smuggled across the border from Italy or Austria. My initial motivation for studying fashion came instead from designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, and the fashion houses of Paris and London. Their work represented forms, silhouettes, and possibilities that were absent from everyday life in Slovenia.

Most of my own clothing was inherited from cousins and older siblings. In this context, Helmut Lang’s Austrian background felt geographically and culturally too familiar to seem particularly aspirational. His work lacked the theatre and spectacle that initially attracted me to fashion. I was interested in exaggeration, transformation, and visual impact. Lang’s work appeared restrained, quiet, and uniform, and perhaps too close to home.

Over the past few years, however, I have become increasingly interested in his work through studying photographs of original garments from the 90s found on archive websites, specialist resale platforms, and collectors’ accounts. What initially appeared minimal and basic revealed itself to be highly considered. Construction, proportion, finishing, material innovation, and reduction in details seemed to carry as much significance as the visual appearance of the garments themselves. The more I looked, the more I became convinced that the making of the garment was the design.

For this reason, the principal aim of my visit was simply to see the garments. Photographs can only reveal so much. They conceal information that often interests me most: how something is made, how it is finished, and what technical decisions were made during its construction. I also wanted to be able to discuss Lang’s work from direct experience rather than through photographs alone.

In this respect, the exhibition proved somewhat disappointing. There were relatively few garments on display, and the focus was directed largely towards branding, visual identity, advertising, and the wider Helmut Lang label. While this contextual material was super informative, it offered limited opportunities for the kind of close garment analysis I had hoped for. There was not even an exhibition catalogue.

The most valuable part of the exhibition was a room dedicated to hybrid objects constructed from elastic or knitted bands sewn together in various configurations. Finally, some garments! The bands and straps created graphic lines across the body that resembled bold strokes made with a marker pen. They weren't garments or accessories, but they felt like drawings, diagrams, or three-dimensional sketches drawn on the body.

What interested me most was the way these lines seemed to connect to other aspects of Lang’s practice. Similar graphic structures appeared in the Helmut Lang logo, the floor plans of his New York studio and retail spaces, advertising campaigns, and even the layouts and seating arrangements of his fashion shows. Garment construction, graphic design, architecture, branding, and exhibition design did not appear as separate activities but as different manifestations of the same design language and thinking.

I spent two additional days in Vienna after visiting the exhibition. Initially, this was motivated by disappointment. However, as I wandered through the city, I began noticing traces of Lang everywhere. Zebra crossings, transport systems, signage, architectural details, and graphic elements throughout Vienna started to resonate with the visual language I had encountered in the exhibition and Lang’s work.

Back in London, my colleague Fleet lent me several Helmut Lang garments from his personal collection. Examining these pieces directly provided the close analysis that I had hoped to undertake in Vienna. Looking at construction details and seam finishes revealed further connections between making, graphic, and design thinking.

Although the exhibition did not provide the level of garment-focused research I had anticipated, the visit ultimately expanded my understanding of Helmut Lang’s practice. Rather than locating his significance solely within individual garments, I began to see how his ideas extended across clothing, graphic design, architecture, retail environments, and visual communication. More importantly, the experience reinforced my belief that garment construction should not be understood simply as a technical process. Construction itself can function as a design language capable of communicating ideas and shaping the way we experience clothing.

The findings from this research have been shared through a presentation published on the MA Fashion Making Padlet. Available to MA Fashion students via Moodle, the Padlet has generated more than 11,000 views in less than a year, demonstrating significant engagement with this area of study and supporting discussions around making as a critical form of design thinking.

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The presentation from the 1st year Welcome week.

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring ​​​Episode 2: ‘Deliverance’ Spring Summer 2004.

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring ​​​Episode 2: ‘Deliverance’ Spring Summer 2004.

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring ​​​Episode 2: ‘Deliverance’ Spring Summer 2004.

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HELMUT LANG. SÉANCE DE TRAVAIL 1986–2005 - MAK Museum Vienna

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Excerpts from the MAK Helmut Lang Archive With HELMUT LANG. SÉANCE DE TRAVAIL 1986–2005 / Excerpts from the MAK Helmut Lang Archive , the MAK presents the first comprehensive exhibition of Helmut Lang’s oeuvre, offering a renewed understanding of his contribution to culture. Based on the largest and only official public archive dedicated to his legacy—which has been part of the MAK Collection since 2011—the exhibition provides profound and unprecedented insight into Helmut Lang’s mindset and creative process.

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Korean-born, London-based artist Do Ho Suh invites visitors to explore his large-scale installations, sculptures, videos and drawings in this major survey exhibition.

Is home a place, a feeling, or an idea? Suh asks timely questions about the enigma of home, identity and how we move through and inhabit the world around us.

With immersive artworks exploring belonging, collectivity and individuality, connection and disconnection, Suh examines the intricate relationship between architecture, space, the body, and the memories and the moments that make us who we are.

Wander through the passages and thresholds of Suh's renowned fabric architectures. Discover his early installations, delicate works on paper and videos. Move across Seoul, New York and London through his life-sized replicas of past and present homes. Encounter sculptures that explore the tradition of monuments.

Experience the breadth and depth of Suh's inventive and unique practice over the last three decades, including new and site-specific works on display for the first time.
The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh in partnership with Genesis Co-curated by Nabila Abdel Nabi, Senior Curator, International Art, (Hyundai Tate Research Centre: Transnational) and Dina Akhmadeeva, Assistant Curator, International Art, Tate Modern

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The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh | Tate Modern

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Korean-born, London-based artist Do Ho Suh invites visitors to explore his large-scale installations, sculptures, videos and drawings in this major survey exhibition. Is home a place, a feeling, or an idea? Suh asks timely questions about the enigma of home, identity and how we move through and inhabit the world around us.

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Behind a door in a Covent Garden side street, the Blitz club was the place where 1980s style began. Inspired by everything from David Bowie, the punk and soul scenes, to continental cinema and cabaret culture, the brightest young talents of their generation came together to revolutionise fashion, music and design, turning a niche club night into a launchpad for global superstardom.

The scene launched the careers of many stars, including chart-topping performers Spandau Ballet, Visage, Boy George and Marilyn as well as a long list of designers, artists, filmmakers and writers - from couture milliner Stephen Jones and Game of Thrones costume designer Michele Clapton, to DJ and fashion writer Princess Julia and BBC broadcaster Robert Elms.

Forty years after its closure, visitors will be able to revisit the trailblazing club's history and atmosphere with a sensory extravaganza of music, flamboyant fashions, and pioneering art, film and graphic design.

Developed in close collaboration with some of the leading 'Blitz Kids' who were there, the exhibition will feature over 250 items, ranging from clothing and accessories, design sketches, musical instruments, flyers, magazines, furniture, artworks, photography, vinyl records and rare film footage.

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Delve into the music, fashion, and design stories that shaped Blitz - the club, the people, and the movement that transformed 1980s London style.

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9 Chance Street, London, E2 7JB

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Smoke's smouldering scent evokes a sense of calm and peace of mind, reflective of the world of Blue Mountain School and the raw natural materials within it. Birch tar and sandalwood fused with cedar wood, patchouli and juniper wood, resting on a base of oak moss, with hints of suede, cistus abs and cade to create the illusion of smoke-incensed wood.

Open hours

Tuesday-Saturday
10am-6pm

9 Chance Street
London E2 7JB
+44 (0)20 7739 9733

Book an Archive appointment:
info@bluemountain.school

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Blue Mountain School is dedicated to nurturing engagements and interactions between diverse practices. Spread over six floors in London's East End, the building is host to several designated spaces: Mãos, a kitchen, table and wine room; Grace's, a listening room; Blue Projects, an exhibition space comprised of a series of viewing rooms; and Hostem, an open archive...

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20 Regent Street

St James, London

SW1Y 4PH

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Stone Island, adidas, Nike & other Designer Brands | 18montrose

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Shop the latest Stone Island, Moncler, Palm Angels, Polo Ralph Lauren, Dries Van Noten, Acne Studios, Li-Ning, Iceberg, C.P. Company & more at 18montrose.

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multibrand store

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Discover the full range of luxury fabrics, designer clothing, stylish homewares and sumptuous beauty products from Liberty, London's favourite heritage department store.

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multubrand store

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Harvey Nichols - Designer Fashion, Beauty, Food & Wine

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Luxury department store, Harvey Nichols, offers designer fashion, beauty, food & wine both online and in-store including Knightsbridge, Leeds & Edinburgh.

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3 Newburgh Street, Carnaby, London, W1F 7RE, United Kingdom

Monday to Saturday 11am - 7pm

Sunday 12pm - 6pm

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Annie’s Ibiza Flagship Carrer de la Santa Creu, 5, 07800 Eivissa, Illes Balears, Spain Everyday 12pm - 1am (April - October) Tel: +34 971 96 73 05 Annie’s Ibiza Carnaby Street 3 Newburgh Street, Carnaby, London, W1F 7RE, United Kingdom Monday to Saturday 11am - 7pm Sunday 12pm - 6pm Tel: +44 20 3846 8438 Whatsa

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The Light House offers a curated and rotating selection of designers and artisan makers, carefully chosen for their creative aesthetic and high quality manufacture. We showcase specialists in fashion, accessories, latex, corsetry, leather, millinery, jewellery, footwear and rare vintage.

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APOC Store is now open at Unit 41, Regent Studios, London E8 4QN. Opening times Tuesday - Sunday 11.00 - 19.00.

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is an online fashion, design, and art marketplace, celebrating a new generation of creatives. We are devoted to curating and sourcing progressive and consciously-created pieces from artists and designers across the globe.

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APOC STORE - a new curated fashion and art marketplace

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APOC STORE is a new curated fashion and art marketplace. We are devoted to curating and sourcing progressive and consciously-created pieces from emerging and independent artists and designers across the globe. Working flexibly with designers, APOC STORE offers one-off pieces, repurposed designs and exclusive styles.

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Style. Sneakers. Culture. Community. | END.

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END. Clothing - The leading retailer of style, sneakers, culture, community. New products added daily.

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LN-CC®: Designer Clothing, Shoes & Bags for Men & Women

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Discover Luxury Fashion at LN-CC®: Top Designers, Exclusive Shoes, Bags, Clothes & Accessories. Subscribe Now for 10% OFF!

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Goodhood | Selected Goods for the Independent Mind

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Your online store for curated fashion lifestyle goods and homeware. Fast worldwide shipping from London UK.

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Machine A offers a great selection of young and established brands and designers.

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MACHINE-A - Luxury Unisex Designer Fashion

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Shop contemporary fashion, from high end labels, emerging designers and streetwear brands for men and women. Shipping worldwide from London, explore now online.

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Conceived by Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe, Dover Street Market is a place for creators from various fields to gather, encounter and collide with each other in a burgeoning atmosphere of beautiful chaos. The original Dover Street Market first opened in London, Mayfair in September 2004.

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They stock Hodakova amongst other designers

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LAYERS sources the finest avant-garde and contemporary fashion designers from around the world. Discover Maison Margiela, Uma Wang, MM6, By Walid, Rundholz, and more at our boutique in Soho, London!

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Famous for stocking Carol Christian Poell

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The Library 1994 is a unique destination focused on artisanal and avant-garde garments including Carol Christian Poell curated by the Dewey Decimal system unlike anywhere else on earth.

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Embroidery detail, lace reused from an old wedding dress

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Embroidery detail, lace reused from an old wedding dress

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STEP BY STEP GUIDES: JEANS/DENIM TROUSERS

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STEP BY STEP GUIDES: JEANS/DENIM TROUSERS

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring Episode 3: 'The Widows of Culloden' Autumn Winter 2006.

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring Episode 3: 'The Widows of Culloden' Autumn Winter 2006.

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring Episode 3: 'The Widows of Culloden' Autumn Winter 2006.

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STEP BY STEP GUIDES: TAILORING/INTERLINING

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STEP BY STEP GUIDES: TAILORING/INTERLINING

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A list of fabric shops and suppliers, London, UK and online, fabric and specialised materials and haberdashery.

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STEP BY STEP GUIDES: MENS TAILORED TROUSERS

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STEP BY STEP GUIDES: MENS TAILORED TROUSERS

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Please read this info sheet and follow H&S advice when working with latex

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STEP BY STEP GUIDES: TAILORED BREAST POCKET

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STEP BY STEP GUIDES: TAILORED BREAST POCKET

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Mauriès, P. (2020) Maison Lesage: Haute Couture Embroidery. National Geographic Books.

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St Clair, K. (2018) The Secret Lives of Colour. John Murray.

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Denim pocket detail

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Pocket detail on a back of a trouser

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Maja Mehle, Makers Camp 2025

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Detail of a technique.

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a texture made out of latex condoms

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DIOR REBOOT REVEALED! BY JONATHAN ANDERSON HIMSELF! By Loïc Prigent

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The Story Behind John Galliano’s Viral 2024 Maison Margiela Show | Vogue

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#ChampionWool - Camira Fabrics - Why we choose British wool

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St Clair, K. (2019) The golden thread: How Fabric Changed History. Liveright Publishing.

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all Winifred Aldrich books are great for creation of basic blocks and basic block adaptations, suitable for all levels

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The Antwerp Six / MoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp

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MoMu celebrates 40 years of the Antwerp Six with a unique exhibition in 2026.

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring ​, Episode 1: 'Dante' Autumn Winter 1996

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring ​, Episode 1: 'Dante' Autumn Winter 1996

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Documenting McQueen: Tailoring ​, Episode 1: 'Dante' Autumn Winter 1996