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Metering (Viewfinder Photography) ... Metering is used to measure the brightness of the subject. The camera optimizes exposure by adjusting shutter speed, aperture (f-number), and ISO sensitivity according to the brightness of the subject, which is measured using the camera's built-in metering sensor.

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AI Servo AF is a s electable AF mode, for when shooting through the viewfinder in an EOS DSLR. Short for Artificial Intelligence Servo Automatic Focusing, AI Servo is Canon’s dedicated focusing mode for moving subjects.  It has the ability to track and analyse movement, and focus the image based on where it predicts the subject will be at a given point in time. AI Servo AF is the preferred focusing method for Sports photographers, and any kind of photography where the subject is constantly moving.

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Shutter speed is the length of time your camera shutter is open, exposing light onto the camera sensor. Essentially, it’s how long your camera spends taking a photo. This has a few important effects in how your images will appear.

When you use a long shutter speed, you end up exposing your sensor for a significant period of time. The first big effect of shutter speed is motion blur. If your shutter speed is long, moving subjects in your photo will appear blurred along the direction of motion. This effect is used quite often in advertisements of cars and motorbikes, where a sense of speed and motion is communicated to the viewer by intentionally blurring the moving wheels.

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AI Servo AF is all about capturing movement; the main problem here is that no two moving objects are the same. For example, imagine a sprinter running in a straight line directly towards you. Contrast that with a race car appearing from your left, driving past and then disappearing round the corner to your right. And then, think about a soccer player who is constantly changing direction, accelerating, and disappearing behind other players.

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Simply put, white balance in digital photography means adjusting colors so that the image looks more natural. We go through the process of adjusting colors to primarily get rid of color casts, in order to match the picture with what we saw when we took it. Why do we have to do this? Because most light sources (the sun, light bulbs, flashlights, etc) do not emit purely white color and have a certain “color temperature“. The human brain processes the information that comes from our eyes and automatically adjusts the color temperature, so we normally see the colors correctly. If you took a white sheet of paper and looked at it outside, it would most likely look as white as if you were to look at it indoors. What most people do not realize, however, is that there is a huge difference in color temperature between bright sunlight and indoors tungsten light.

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In very basic terms, ISO is simply a camera setting that will brighten or darken a photo. As you increase your ISO number, your photos will grow progressively brighter. For that reason, ISO is a good tool to help you capture images in dark environments or be more flexible about your aperture and shutter speed settings.

However, raising your ISO has consequences. A photo taken at too high of an ISO will show a lot of grain, also known as noise, and might not be usable. So, brightening a photo via ISO is always a trade-off. You should only raise your ISO when you are unable to brighten the photo via shutter speed or aperture instead (for example, if using a longer shutter speed would cause your subject to be blurry).

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Aperture refers to the opening of a lens's diaphragm through which light passes. It is calibrated in f/stops and is generally written as numbers such as 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11 and 16. The lower f/stops give more exposure because they represent the larger apertures, while the higher f/stops give less exposure because they represent smaller apertures. This may seem a little contradictory at first but will become clearer as you take pictures at varying f/stops. Be sure to check your manual first to learn how to set your camera for Aperture Priority, then try experimenting to get comfortable with changing the aperture and recognizing the effects different apertures will have on the end-result image.

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Reasons for Using Semi-Automatic Shooting Modes.

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Reasons for Using Semi-Automatic Shooting Modes.

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Manual exposure is slow . Yes, it is true that, with a little practice and knowing the behavior of the camera well, measuring the exposure and preparing the camera with the appropriate parameters can take only a few seconds. However, it will always be slower than the typical process of semiautomatic modes. In some photographic situations, you may miss the opportunity to take a good photograph simply by measuring the light of the scene and setting the camera. This, with semiautomatic modes, will not happen to you.

The automatic mode ('Auto' on the mode dial) is one in which the camera has full control over all aspects related to a shot; It controls the speed, the diaphragm, the white balance, the ISO and even the flash of your camera. This mode is a bit sad because it thinks for you , it will do everything possible so that your take is correct according to its variables.

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As we have already mentioned, shooting in manual is one of the best ways to learn to see and work the light of our photographs because we will be the ones that decide at any moment what parameters will be used by the camera in the image capture. Therefore, shooting in manual is the way we have to learn to master the camera completely. But there are two great advantages of shooting in manual that make it a more interesting shooting mode for what situations:

It allows us to ignore the built-in photometer . Shooting in one of the semiautomatic modes means, invariably, depend on the photometer of our camera. In most situations this may be more than enough, but there will be times when we either want or need to use a handheld photometer to measure the light of the scene. In these cases, the only way we will have to expose the image correctly is using the manual mode.