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Claire Hoang, tricot - fil acrylique, septembre 2021

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Claire Hoang, tricot - fil acrylique, septembre 2021

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J'ai été influencé par l'armure de cotte de mailles médiévale et me suis inspiré de la cagoule des médias. J'étais ravi de créer une pièce faite à la main qui pourrait représenter une armure, une pièce de protection juxtaposée aux oreilles de lapin et aux bijoux. Chaque maille représente une chaîne, transparente, fin et fluide. La pièce m'a permis de faire preuve de créativité et d'expérimenter avec ce média artistique que je n'avais jamais essayé auparavant. Le processus en lui-même n'était pas très compliqué, mais il y avait des parties où je devais être décisif et créatif pour trouver des solutions alternatives. La pièce est réalisée à partir de fil et d'aiguilles de deuxième occasion avec un motif original.

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J'ai entrepris de créer une cagoule pour jouer avec le design textile, le tricot et l'expérimentation. Ce que j'avais imaginé au tout début n'est pas loin de ma dernière pièce. Ma dernière pièce se compose d'une cagoule faite d'un fil fin mais crépu pour créer un motif transparent, une ouverture pour le visage, des oreilles (lapin ?) et des bijoux en argent fin. Ce doit être l'un des projets que j'ai passé le plus de temps à créer. Le tricot seul a pris 6 heures pour mon premier essai et encore 6 heures pour le second. Bien que la durée reflète le temps réel passé à tricoter, elle reflète également le temps qu'il m'a fallu pour comprendre comment j'allais tout assembler ainsi que la forme et la longueur. Il m'a fallu beaucoup de temps pour déterminer combien de points j'allais commencer et enlever, la taille et la technique pour l'ouverture du visage, créer la forme finale de la tête, redimensionner car elle était trop petite, tout coudre et les oreilles. Ce projet m'a vraiment permis d'être exploratoire, indépendant et de résoudre des problèmes en cours de route. En repensant, j'aurais pu changer certaines choses pour rendre le processus plus fluide et plus rapide, mais je suis étonnamment satisfait de sa forme finale. Je suis content d'avoir choisi de réessayer car cela ne ressemblait pas à ce que je voulais. Pour quelqu'un qui a appris à tricoter il y a 6 ans et qui n'a jamais pratiqué entre-temps, je suis très impressionné par moi-même. Sans oublier que je n'ai jamais tricoté de bonnet et encore moins un trou géant au milieu.

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n'était pas assez grand, alors j'ai créé un patch supplémentaire pour le dos pour le replanter

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différents types d'aiguilles pour expérimenter avec la taille et sa tension

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1. devant y compris l'ouverture 2. dos pour ajustement de la taille. 3. oreilles de lapin

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1. knit 11, drop 19, knit 11 2. attache un autre fil sur autre côté du ouverture  3. continue et ajoute 19 boucles et combine les deux

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Que puis-je faire la prochaine fois pour réussir ?

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Que puis-je faire la prochaine fois pour réussir ?

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- style ample mais avec des aiguilles plus grosses (pour créer l'effet)
- refaire les lignes si je crée beaucoup d'erreurs
- mesurer deux fois, tricoter une fois
- mesurer le trou pour le visage et la pratique
- double point uniquement sur les côtés

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- trop lâche
- trop de trous et d'erreurs
- trop grand (serait trop grand et spacieux)
- le trou pour le visage était trop grand
- quand j'ai cousu deux fois, cela a créé des volants

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J'ai appris à tricoter il y a de nombreuses années quand j'étais enfant par ma grand-mère. Elle m'a appris à faire le point "knit" et à commencer ma toute première foulard. Bien que cela fasse de nombreuses années depuis, je me souviens encore comment "knit", "cast on", finir le project, "double stitch" et "drop stitches".

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Le tricot fini de la cagoule avant. Ce n'était pas assez grand donc j'ai créé une autre pièce à coudre dans le dos. L'étape suivante consistait à le rassembler.

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la première rangée de depuis le début de l'ouverture

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ouverture "traditionel" ou "historique" du maille

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boucles à tricoter avec différent tensions : lâches, serré et avec trou

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différent type d'oreilles : lapin, chat, taureau, diable...

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sketch de conception du cacougle que je veux creé

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sketch de conception du cagoule avec oreilles de lapin de differents perspectives

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On pense que le tricot est originaire du Moyen-Orient au 5ème siècle et a voyagé en Europe avec des commerçants de laine peu de temps après.

-extrait de https://www.the-sustainable-fashion-collective.com/2017/05/04/knitting-brief-history-knitting-uses

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There are many basic methods of making clothes, and knitting is one of the oldest of them; there are Egyptian knitted artefacts that date back to the 5th century AD. Hand-knitting can be done with just needles and yarn, and it doesn't need heavy equipment like looms, so it was and is an accessible and functional craft. A variety of knitting machines are also available today, to create knitted fabrics more quickly and automatically.

Before I discuss the process of knitting, let me tell you about the interesting origins of this traditional method of fabric production.

@OffsetWarehouse blog about the history, method, development and uses of #knitting. #sustainabletextiles

The history of knitting

Knitting is believed to have originated in the Middle East in the 5th century and travelled to Europe with wool traders soon afterwards. Interestingly, the examples of early knitting from Egypt are actually made from cotton fibres, not wool. Many of them have Arabic blessings knitted into them, or symbols to ward off bad luck. In the 14th century, the knitted textile form was used by fishermen to make warm, woollen, weatherproof jumpers for trips to sea. By the 16th century, knitting machines were used to knit hosiery for elite classes.

One of the oldest preserved examples of a knitted garment. Image courtesy of knitty.com.

Knitting soon became a local industry in the Highlands and Scotland, employing men in factories to knit stockings that were exported to the rest of Europe. Soon, hats, shawls, bags, jumpers and other forms of knitwear were available in the market. The first knitting loom was built in 1816 and woollen mills were set up to create expensive garments. Eugene Rodier set up the first woollen textile factory in 1853.

By the 20th century, knitwear was part of mainstream fashion. With the introduction of jersey dresses, cardigans and jumpers by fashion labels like Chanel, knitwear was a practical, fashionable and modern choice for men and women.

From the Middle East to Chanel - @OffetWarehouse look at how #knitwear hit the market.

How is knitting done?

The knitting process basically involves continuously interlinking or knotting series of loops of yarn using needles. These consecutive loops are intermeshed into the previous loop structure. Thus the new stitch secures the loop structure by locking the previous stitches that are suspended from it, eventually creating a sheet of material. Just like in weaving, this sheet of materials is a two-dimensional fabric. The difference, however, is that the threads run straight or parallel in weaved cloth, whereas the yarns follows a meandering path in knit fabric. The symmetric looping of yarn causes the resulting fabric to be elastic and stretchy, a highly desirable property that makes knitwear a wardrobe staple in winters.

Knitting creates a wonderful level of 'stretchability'

Knitting is done by hand or using machines. In hand-knitting, fabric is produced using flat knitting or circular knitting methods. We use two straight needles for flat knitting, while circular knitting is performed with sets of double-pointed needles or circular needles. While flat knitting produces two-dimensional flat fabric, circular knitting creates tubular-shaped fabric.

The basic process begins with casting on, or creation of stitches on the needle. Different methods of casting on yield different effects in the finished fabric. By varying the insertion of the needle into the previous stitch in different ways, different types of stitches are made and desired patterns can be formed in the fabric.

All knitted fabric structures are based on a pattern of knots made between the yarns.

All knitting machines follow a basic knitting process with six steps, although the machines look mind-bogglingly complicated! Knitting on machines involves low carbon steel bearded needles, which are supported on a needle bar. There is a presser bar to depress the beards, and the process is outlined below.

The needle bar goes forward and the open needles clear the web.

The weft thread is placed on the needles

It is made to fall loosely

This thread is pulled in the open needles by drawing the needle bar backwards.

The presser bar drops to close the needle loops and draw the weft back through the loops

The needles open and a new row of loops is revealed

Properties of knitwear

Depending on the direction in which the yarn travels during the knitting process, two types of knitting are identified: Warp knitting or Weft knitting.

Knitting type

In warp knitting, yarn loops vertically in the fabric. This type of knitting can only be performed by warp knitting machines. However, in weft knitting, the yarn travels horizontally. This type of knitting can be done by hand or using weft knitting machines. The properties and structure of the fabric differ based on whether warp or weft knitting is used in it. Warp knitting results in flat or open width forms, while weft knitting results in tubular fabric pieces. Warp knitting secures the loop structure and is resistant to runs. On the other hand, weft-knit fabrics are easy to make but it will unravel when cut, unless repaired promptly.

Stitch type

When the basic knit stitch is used, each loop is drawn through the loop below it and the finished fabric looks like rows of "V's" stacked vertically. Purl stitches resemble wavy arches across the length of fabric. Bulkier textures that retain heat can be created using knitting patterns such as the Aran knitting patterns, which resemble ropes. Named after the Aran Islands off the Irish Coast, perhaps ropes were a daily inspiration for the inventive and creative minds that pioneered this particular method.

Different types of #knitting have different #fabric properties and uses - #knitwear post by @OffsetWarehouse

Learn from Sue Blacker of Blacker Yarns about the natural and eco characteristics of wool to better understand why this fibre is primarily used for knitting.

Jersey fabrics and industrialisation of knitting

One of the most impressive properties of knitting is how it enhances the 'stretchability' of a fabric. Single-knit fabric is stretchy and lightweight, making it perfect for fitted yet comfortable clothing. This type of fabric was first commercially produced in Jersey in the Channel Islands, and was also known as, unsurprisingly, Jersey!

Jersey commonly refers to any knitted fabric without a distinct rib. Although it was originally made of wool, the introduction of commercial knitting systems led to production of jersey fabric from other fibres like cotton and rayon.

Chanel too soon moved onto cotton jersey knit to create garments such as this retro little number!

Single-knit jersey fabric is widely used in t-shirts. It is soft and pliable, and is characterised by one smooth side and a purled underside. Variations of jersey include double-knit jerseys, Jacquard jerseys and interlock jerseys and clocque jersey. Apart from sports apparel, inner wear and sweaters, jersey fabrics are also popularly used in upholstery and home furnishings. It has also been showcased in many signature dress styles, including classic knitted suits for women, zigzag Missoni knitwear, chunky cardigans and unisex knitwear designs.

So while knitting began its days as method to make solely practical woollen garments, it has travelled through time and space, evolving into a means of style and on to cult status (note the Nordic knitwear craze). It has implanted itself in our hearts and our imaginations as a pastime and as an industry to become one the most widely used commercial and also personal approaches to garment manufacture. Long live knitwear!

#knitting has evolved from #practical, to #style, to cult! Long live knitwear! @OffsetWarehouse

Fictional Scandi-noir character Sarah Lund's iconic knitted jumper collection was style talking point for months!

A painting of The Prince of Wales, made in 1921, depicts him in his Fairisle knitted jumper, a mainstay of iconic knitting styles.

The industry is changing though, with cool innovations using technology to save materials and build new silhouettes. Learn more in this lesson ' Changing The Industry' from Hall Watts of Unmade.
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Interested in learning more about how you can use knitwear in your fashion brand?

The Sustainable Fashion Collective brings you Masterclasses on specific topics within the fashion and textiles industry. Each Masterclass contains lessons from guest experts, from brands to material innovators.

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What Is Knitting? A Brief History of Knitting And Its Uses

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There are many basic methods of making clothes, and knitting is one of the oldest of them; there are Egyptian knitted artefacts that date back to the 5th century AD. Hand-knitting can be done with just needles and yarn, and it doesn't need heavy equipment like looms, so it was and is an accessible and functional craft.

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Le nom vient de leur utilisation lors de la bataille de Balaclava pendant la guerre de Crimée de 1854, faisant référence à la ville près de Sébastopol en Crimée, où les troupes britanniques portaient des couvre-chefs tricotés pour se réchauffer. Des cagoules faites à la main ont été envoyées aux troupes britanniques pour les protéger du froid glacial.

- extrait de https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balaclava_(clothing)

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A balaclava, also known as a balaclava helmet or Bally (UK slang) or ski mask, is a form of cloth headgear designed to expose only part of the face, usually the eyes and mouth. Depending on style and how it is worn, only the eyes, mouth and nose, or just the front of the face are unprotected. Versions with a full face opening may be rolled into a hat to cover the crown of the head or folded down as a collar around the neck.

This type of headgear was known in the 19th century as an Uhlan cap or a Templar cap.

The name comes from their use at the Battle of Balaclava during the Crimean War of 1854, referring to the town near Sevastopol in the Crimea, where British troops there wore knitted headgear to keep warm. Handmade balaclavas were sent over to the British troops to help protect them from the bitter cold weather. British troops required this aid, as their own supplies (warm clothing, weatherproof quarters, and food) never arrived in time. According to Richard Rutt in his History of Handknitting, the name "balaclava helmet" was not used during the war but appears much later, in 1881.

Thin Balaclavas can be used under motorcycle or snowmobile helmets for warmth in cool or winter conditions.

Race drivers In Fédération Internationale de l'Automobile sanctioned events must wear balaclavas made of fire-retardant material underneath their crash helmets. In racing events, hill-climbs, special stages of rallies and selective sections of cross-country events entered on the International Sporting Calendar, all drivers and co-drivers must wear overalls as well as gloves (optional for co-drivers), long underwear, a balaclava, and shoes homologated to the FIA 8856-2000 standard.

In the Indian subcontinent, balaclavas are commonly referred to as monkey caps because of their typical earth tone colours, and the fact that they blot out most human facial features. Monkey caps sometimes have a small, decorative, woollen pom-pom on top. They are commonly worn by troops on Himalayan duty for protection from the cold.

The United States Marine Corps has recently begun issuing balaclavas with hinged face guards as part of the Flame Resistant Organizational Gear program.

In the Soviet Union, the balaclava became a part of standard OMON (special police task force) uniform as early as the Perestroyka years of the late 1980s. The original intent was to protect the identity of the officers to avoid intimidation from organized crime. Because of increased problems with organized crime of the 90s, TV shots of armed men in black balaclavas became common. Armed Russian police commonly conduct raids and searches of white-collar premises (typically in Moscow) while wearing balaclavas. Such raids have therefore come to be known in Russia as " maski shows", an allusion to a popular comic TV show of the 1990s.

Police in Kent confiscated a copy of the War on Terror board game partly because of the inclusion of a balaclava. Police spokesmen stated it "could be used to conceal someone's identity or could be used in the course of a criminal act."

Balaclavas are often used by police battling drug cartels and gangs in Latin America to conceal their identity and protect their families.

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A balaclava, also known as a balaclava helmet or Bally (UK slang) or ski mask, is a form of cloth headgear designed to expose only part of the face, usually the eyes and mouth. Depending on style and how it is worn, only the eyes, mouth and nose, or just the front of the face are unprotected.

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Coifs in the Morgan bible. The Pierpont Morgan Library, New York, Ms M. 638.

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4. Dessinez la conception de la cagoule et de l'effet de tricot (avec des alternatives)

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4. Dessinez la conception de la cagoule et de l'effet de tricot (avec des alternatives)

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6. Expérimentez avec différentes techniques, aiguilles et tensions

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6. Expérimentez avec différentes techniques, aiguilles et tensions

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Raf Simons Drops Lush Striped Mohair Balaclavas

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25 AFFORDABLE SHEIN CLOTHING PICKS [FEBRUARY 2021]

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Капюшон (капор) вязаный

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Plant Discoveries Sherwin Carlquist WOOD EVOLUTION VESSEL GROUPING

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Le processus de création; développement d’une œuvre

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page de conception/sketch de mon cahier de croquis

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- designe textile
- texture
- manipulation de texture

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J'ai été inspiré pour conceptualiser et créer une cagoule comme une grande pièce de déclaration. Les cagoules me rappellent souvent l'armure de cotte de mailles médiévale - une pièce de protection. La pièce serait comme un bouclier, me protégeant du monde extérieur. Je veux expérimenter avec la texture et les matériaux ainsi qu'apprendre l'art du tricot.

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sketch de conception du cagoule avec oreilles de lapin de differents perspectives

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experiment de tricot - purl et knit, boucles lâches

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experimentation de tricot - boucles lâches, knit et purl

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experimentation de tricot - knit stitch et laisser tomber les boucles 