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He darts around the Mixican countryside buying corn in batches as small as 100 kilps, has about 100 clients in the United States and Europe, making him the dominant player on a very small field. The company exports to import 400 tons of corn this year, up from 80 tons in 2014,

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Chefs buy native corn from Mexico and grind it in-house to make masa, or dough, for tortillas, tamales, tlacoyos and tetelas.

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Two years ago, Mr. Velasco at age 46 sold half of his land cutting his holding down to eight acres.
"It was a lot of work and for what?" He said. "You invest and you dont make money."

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For a few years, farmer Juan Velasco could not sell half of the nutty, orange-colored corn that he had harvested.

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Santa Ana Zegache, Mexico — In the birthplace of maize, nobody seemed to need Juan Velasco’s crop.