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1.http://www.instructables.com/id/The-EyeWriter-20/
I like this project as, in the future, technology similar to this could help disabled people communicate.
2.http://www.instructables.com/id/Tweet-a-watt-How-to-make-a-twittering-power-mete/
This project reminds the user of how much electricity they use via twitter. This, in theory, could remind the user to use less electricity thus helping t he environment.
3.http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Skateboard-Speedometer/
The speedometer could be attached to not just a skateboard but instead to a variety of transport devices, helping cyclists and skateboarders alike.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Violin/
As I violin I personally am interested in this project as it it quirky, unique and quite frankly, cool.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Security-Panel-System-With-Using-Keypad-an/
This is a cheap and easy way to protect your valuables

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Parking-Assistant/
This can heavily decrease the risks of crashing when parking either between cars or in a small garage.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Smell-Pollutants/

I find this project very effective because there are approximately  430 deaths per year in the US from Carbon Monoxide Poisoning. if we can reduce this horrific statistic to at least a lower amount, it would save us so much grief and loss in the world. Our society is already tearing us apart and if a small little gadget like this can help; we are living in a more eco-friendly environment.

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1.http://www.instructables.com/id/turn-signal-biking-jacket/
This project makes cycling safer.
2.http://www.instructables.com/id/Secret-Knock-Detecting-Door-Lock/
This project uses Arduinmos to add a little more magic into everyday life.
3.http://www.instructables.com/id/Power-Laces-the-Auto-lacing-shoe/
Makes a task from everyday life easier

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This device uses sensors to detect a fox foraging around your house. When the sensor detects movement, an arm moves left to right very quickly and a light flashes to scare away the unwanted creature. It works with any animals: birds, dogs, cats, squirrels. This simple and ingenious device saves any damage which the animals could inflict on your property.

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James Taylor Image for thermometer

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Arduino Mood Light!

This just generally looks really cool and sets a relaxing atmosphere. It is basically a box of wood with a stand inside to hold the Arduino board with the very powerful RBG LED and wiring inside. You can also cut an area to hold your phone perhaps while working. Then you can cut a used milk jug in half and place on top of the gap in the top of the wood, so the light can shine through, to make the milk jug glow, creating a nice mood. It's really just a very cheap Lava Lamp! :-)

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First your gonna want cut out the base of your container:

I used two 2x4s with a length of 9 1/4 inches and used wood glue to put them together to hold it together.

After you cut out the base then your going to want to build the front and back sides:

For the sides I used once again two 2x4s per side with a length of 7 inches

For the bottom 2x4 on the back sides cut a opening in it to act as a storage for the future

On the front side your going to cut a spot for your phone to rest

You cut the rest depending on the size of your phone

After you cut out the resting spot then pit a piece of plywood to act as the support so your phone doesn't fall out

Then I connected them using wood glue

After you cut the front and back then you must cut out the sides:

I used 3/8 inch thick ply wood and cut it 7x7 inches per side

Then screw them into the front and back as shown above

You then going to cut a 6 inch long 2x4 and screw it into the back side of the container

Then your going to make the top of the box:

I used a piece of plywood which in my case was 10x7 inch

You will use the top later so don't screw it on yet

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First your gonna want cut out the base of your container: I used two 2x4s with a length of 9 1/4 inches and used wood glue to put them together to hold it together.

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My first favourite project is:

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Arduino Violin!

This creation is not described in too much detail on instructables but from what I can make out the 'fiddle stick' has a mouse scroller embedded inside, sticking out which helps the stick move along the violin. There are three buttons where fingers are which can be pressed to produce a different sound wen the stick is moved over the Arduino board, which is placed below where the stick would be rolling. Then passing the signals through a program you can produce sounds! It is made from wood (shaped by a laser cutter) so it is very eco-friendly. I like this because is shows that with enough effort, very simple technology help ordinary people create instruments on a home made scale and it is also quite imaginative and in the way the mouse scroll wheel is used.

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During a FabLab introduction week we got the assignment to build an Arduino instrument. We chose to make a violin.

The original plan was to use a mouse sensor like we saw here: http://moddersandrockers.com.
We tried this and destroyed three mice but to no avail. Finally we settled for just using the mouse's scroll wheel to slide the fiddlestick over. We then used three buttons and combinations thereof to choose a tone. By sliding over the wheel the violin produces sound.

Using Pure Data we channeled the serial read from the Arduino to Midi-notes in Ableton Live. There we coupled the incoming midi-notes to sounds.

The violin body was build using a laser cutter, for the top and bottom, and mill for the thickness.

You can download all required files here: http://jorgoscoenen.be/arduino-violin.zip

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During a FabLab introduction week we got the assignment to build an Arduino instrument. We chose to make a violin. The original plan was to use a mouse sensor like we saw here: http://moddersandrockers.com. We tried this and destroyed three mice but to no avail.

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Arduino: Used to program, LED lights to tell the time on a clock without using numbers
Intresting: it not only was a clever way top use the Arduino board but also was a different concept on telling the time

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Introduction: The BlokClok Concept - Arduino Driven RGB Abstract Clock

Arduino driven clock concept. Unique concept using an 8x8 RGB Dot Matrix Display. The time is indicated using blocks of colour. The central 6x6 grid is split into 4 x (3x3) grids and each 3x3 block is a different colour. The number of LED's per 3x3 grid indicate the digit. i.e. if the first 3x3 grid has 1 LED lit then the first digit is 1, the second has 7 then the 2nd digit is 7, etc. The top two grids are the hour digits and the bottom 2 the minutes. Around the edge the unused LED's have a moving light that shows the approximate position of the seconds.

The display is driven by 4 x 74HC595 Shift Registers controlled from the Arduino. Each register controls a colour (r, g & B) with the final register multiplexing the rows. The time is obtained from an DS1307 Real Time Clock chip with battery backup so that the device can be powered down and will resume at the correct time when powered back up again.

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The BlokClok Concept - Arduino Driven RGB Abstract Clock

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Arduino driven clock concept. Unique concept using an 8x8 RGB Dot Matrix Display. The time is indicated using blocks of colour. The central 6x6 grid is split into 4 x (3x3) grids and each 3x3 block is a different colour. The number of LED's per 3x3 grid indicate the digit.

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Arduino: Used to program lights against strips of plastic to make colored 'disco table.
Intresting: They used lights to reflect colors that would show up on a table however even though the Arduino board was a small part it still was at the heart of the experiment

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Introduction: Light-Up Disco Table

Every apartment needs awesome furniture, so why not make your own? This coffee table contains LED strips that light up into various customizable patterns and colors. The lights are controlled by an Arduino and a hidden button, and the entire thing is battery powered so there are no cords.

If you don't want to make your own table, you can also use the same code and circuitry to modify an existing table.

Materials:

Step 1: Table Design

This was my first woodworking project using nice wood and "advanced" tools, so please do not consider me an expert. Rather than describing in detail how I made the table, I'll give more of a broad overview of what I did*.

The design of the table is an open-framed cube, with space in the top for the electronics and additional LED strips around the legs. The lights are diffused through plastic which is embedded flush with the wood to create a smooth surface.

*Note that I did a few things in ways that were not ideal. In the instructions I will outline a better method for making the table than what I actually did. Generally, the changes involve cutting certain pieces all at the same time to ensure that they are the same length.

EDIT: I added the part files for the table. Note that they are Inventor files, not generic stls. (I don't have Inventor anymore so I can't open/convert them).

Step 2: Make the Top and Base Frames

The top and base of the table are essentially open frames with various grooves cut out for joining and assembly.

For both of them, I started by jointing and planing lengths of maple to the thicknesses specified in the design. Next, I used the table saw to carefully cut out long notches from the edges of the parts. The base frame only has one groove, but the top frame has multiple. Make sure to check that your piece of plastic fits flush after you cut the groove it will sit in (you won't be able to go back and make it deeper).

You should then miter all eight pieces to length using a jig (this is something that I did not do, so my top and base frames were slightly different sizes). Also cut grooves for adding splines (strips of wood) when you glue the frames together. With the top frame, make sure that you cut the grooves so the splines won't be visible on the finished top surface (make sure they pass through the inner edge, where the plastic will sit and cover them).

Set all the pieces near their places and glue/clamp the frames together. Take care that the edges of the miters are touching and that the frames are sitting flush with the surface they are on. Once they are dry, trim away any part of the spline that is sticking above the surface of the frame.

Step 3: Cut and Attach the Inner Frame

A thin plywood frame sits inside the top frame and acts as a connecting surface between the top frame and the legs, as well as a mounting surface for the electronics tray.

I started by cutting all my plywood strips to the same length and width on the table saw. Next, I marked and drilled holes near the edges so that later on I would be able to access the cables from the LEDs in the legs. I then cut the corners to 45 degree angles on the chop saw so the strips would fit neatly together as a frame. I routed a groove along the inside edge so the electronics tray would be able to sit flush with the frame's surface. Finally, I attached the strips of the inner frame to the bottom of the top frame with wood glue and brads.

Step 13: Solder the LED Strips

The LED strips come in lengths of ten sections, but for the table I needed six lengths of six sections (for the top grid) and four lengths of two sections (for the legs). This meant I needed forty-four sections, or five cut-up strips in total. They also needed the proper connectors so I could easily plug them in to the circuit.

I ended up making:

(6x) Six control sections, 3 pin male header on starting end

(3x) Two control sections, 3 pin male header on starting end and 3 pin female header on back end

(1x) Two control sections, 3 pin male header on starting end

The LED strips can be cut in the middle of the copper pads with regular scissors. To solder on wires I used a blade to carefully cut away the casing around the pads and applied a small amount of flux. I then tinned the pads and soldered on the wires. The exposed joints I covered with heat shrink and the ends of the wires were soldered to the appropriate connectors.

I needed to connect a few lengths of LED strip together to make the sixth strip for the table top. Once again I trimmed the casing, applied flux, and tinned one set of pads. I aligned the pads on the two different strips and melted the solder over the joints to make the connection.

Step 17: Arduino Code

The code for running the patterns is a giant switch case that changes based on how many times the button is pressed. The button is read as an interrupt, and the interrupt changes variables that tell the cases to break so a new case can be started. Each type of pattern can be easily modified to use different colors or to run at different frame rates. The colors are defined at the beginning of the program to make it easier to read.

Pin assignments:

2: button state/interrupt pin

7: LED strip in the legs

8-13: LED strips in the top

Step 19: Add LED Strips to Legs

The LED strips are a tight fit inside the legs. They sit in the deep dado cut, behind the acrylic panels. The input and output cables are threaded up to the electronics tray via the holes cut in the interior frame. I ended up using a hook of wire and pliers to pull them through (a flashlight is also handy, especially if you use black heat shrink like I did). The strips were then plugged together using the extension cables I had make earlier. A few adhesive-backed cable holders helped keep the wires at the edge of the interior frame.

At this point, make sure you TEST THE LED STRIPS. Sometimes I ended up with bad connections at the solder joint and the strip wouldn't light. After this point it will be much harder to reach the strips since the acrylic panels will be in the way.

Step 23: Add the Dividers

My table wasn't perfect, so some of the dividers didn't fit inside the top frame. I carefully sanded them down until they did, checking the fit as I went. I then assembled the divider structure and put it into place inside the table. Once it was mostly in place, I shifted the wires and LED strips so they lay in the notches and not trapped between the dividers and the electronics tray.

**needs more photos of assembling/installing the dividers

Step 27: Enjoy!

Pull up a chair and enjoy your new table. As I mentioned earlier, it is very easy to change the colors in the patterns to make this table your own. You can also use the code and LED strips in a different table or for some other light-based purpose.

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Every apartment needs awesome furniture, so why not make your own? This coffee table contains LED strips that light up into various customizable patterns and colors. The lights are controlled by an Arduino and a hidden button, and the entire thing is battery powered so there are no cords.

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This system really interested me as parking assistants are typically expensive optional extras on cars these days, therefore there is no cheap solution to avoiding a scratch on your car when you park. The design is housed on wood and is comprised of cheap and easy-to-source materials (e.g. sensors, LED lights etc). When the vehicle is reversing, the lights (in a circle) light up the closer you get to the wall it is housed on, making sure you park in the right spot every time.

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Arduino: Used to program the LED lights so they flash in the pattern of clock numbers

Interesting: The way that they have used the LED lights in a different way compared to just normal ideas

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This is an 8x8 RGB LED module, being driven by 4 x 74HC595N Shift Registers controlled by a Boarduino (Arduino clone that can be used on a breadboard). The time data is from a DS1307 Real Time Clock IC.

The display is outputting the time and then the date and cycling through 7 different colours. This took me about 5 hours in total to put together and code.

I have introduced the concept of a 'Colour Overlay' which means the colour data is held in a separate data array to the LED ON/OFF data. The way it works is you imagine the matrix is made up of two layers, the bottom layer is an array of 8x8 lights that can either be on or off 9The Greyscale Layer). The top layer (The Overlay Layer) contains a digital piece of coloured cellulose that the lights shine through. Depending on what colour each section of the matrix has been set to, whatever is displayed underneath on the Greyscale Layer shines through the coloured Overlay Layer, giving you the colours that you see.

In this demonstration two functions are used, the 'colourFill' and the 'rainbowFull' functions. The colourFill function simply fills the Overlay array with a solid colour. The rainbowFill function fills the Overlay array with a preset pattern of colours. As you can see, the colours remain static whilst the text appears to slide underneath.
An ambitious coder could use this function to also animate the Overlay to give animated colours that move separately to the animation underneath in the Greyscale Layer.

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This is an 8x8 RGB LED module, being driven by 4 x 74HC595N Shift Registers controlled by a Boarduino (Arduino clone that can be used on a breadboard). The time data is from a DS1307 Real Time Clock IC. The display is outputting the time and then the date and cycling through 7 different colours.

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This pocket size, shrunk down trumpet is a very cool idea. It uses the same concept of a trumpet (3 valves) and plays the notes as you press them down to create a tune. The materials are easy to find and are very cheap. This simple and easy idea is perfect if you don't to carry around the whole instrument and you can show off this to your friends who will be amazed at your musical talent, hopefully!

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Christmas-Tree-Money-Origami/
I found this project interesting as it was very humorous because it is a very unrelistic project however it is very funny. This is because nobody would spend their time to make this out of a note when they could buy a mini Christmas tree for cheaper than that. Also because the author of the post could have made it out of paper but chose to do it with money intead which make it much funnier for the readers.

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Arduino Thermometer!

This is one of the most simple Arduino projects to create yet it is seemingly effective and advantageous, when waking up to check how hot it is! (Especially for people living in hot places such as America). It includes very few items, which are mostly very cheap, or found around the house, reasonable simple wiring and quite self-explanatory code (you could even just copy it), making it easy to recreate. You can use LM35 sensors to actually read the temperature which will be displayed on the LCD. Finally, to make a nice, clean look get some plastic Tupperware (very easy to acquire) measure the display LCD and cut a rectangle out, fitting the device inside. This is really interesting because it looks very professional for such a small amount of resources and conveys how much can be done just using an arduino board with a few spare parts. (To use link, click on image below, then 'open in new window')

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Its hot here in Los Angeles! Besides the massive drought California is in, Its not as cool around here lately. I wanted to build something to see just how hot it...

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http://www.instructables.com/id/ESP8266-Arduino-RGB-LED-Christmas-Light-Window-Dec/
This caught my eye straight away because of the different colours. It seems simple yet effective-eye catching yet affordable
http://www.instructables.com/id/Guitar-Hero-Arduino-Project/
I couldn't understand much of how this was made because it was in German or something-but I like the idea of coding your own guitar hero and bringing it to life
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-LCD-Keypad-Shield-4-Arduino-Uno/
This reminded me of an assembly we did in year seven or eight- programming mini games and coding different buttons for different purposes