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Desktop PC Reviews and Lab Tests | PCMag PCMag.com is a leading authority on technology, delivering lab-based, independent reviews of the latest products and services. Our expert industry analysis and practical solutions help you make better buying decisions and get more from technology. How We Test Editorial Principles © 1996-2022 Ziff Davis.

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What are you primarily using your computer for?

(Select one)

What do you want your computer to do?

(Select up to 3)

How do you want to connect things to your computer?

(Select up to 4)

Are you looking for a big or small screen?

(Select one)

Do you have a brand in mind?

(Select up to 3)

What matters most?

(Select one)

BACK

Here's what we found for you

You said a computer that was most important to you. You also wanted a computer that . Based on current availability, here are some PCs that match best. Check each device for its feature capabilities and specifications.

You said a computer that was most important to you. You also wanted a computer that . Based on current availability, here are some PCs that have some of those and a few other features you might like. Check each device for its feature capabilities and specifications.

Different than your selections:

Different than your selections:

Different than your selections:

Different than your selections:

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How to Choose a Computer: Find Your PC | Microsoft

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What are you primarily using your computer for? (Select one) What do you want your computer to do? (Select up to 3) How do you want to connect things to your computer? (Select up to 4) Are you looking for a big or small screen? (Select one) Do you have a brand in mind?

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A desktop computer can be a smart and ergonomic pick if you're setting up a home office and aren't worried much about mobility. Staring into a monitor puts less strain on your neck than staring down into a laptop. You also generally get more power per dollar spent with a desktop than you do with a laptop.

Some models come with a built-in display, and others require you to supply your own. Luckily, you can find good computer monitors for reasonable prices. In fact, while all-in-one models with a screen tend to be aesthetically pleasing and take up less desk space, they can cost a lot more than buying a desktop computer and monitor separately.

Mac or PC? It's really up to you. You'll find models on both platforms that score well in our labs. They'll support the most popular software options, too, from Adobe Photoshop to Chrome, Slack to Zoom. But there are benefits to pairing a Mac with an iPhone or an Android phone with a PC. You may be able to answer a text message with your keyboard, for example, or share copy-paste data between a computer and a smartphone.

Desktops generally offer better bang for your buck compared with laptops, delivering more power and performance per dollar spent.

Depending on the model you choose, you may have to supply your own mouse, keyboard, and monitor. In that case, you might want to consider buying an ergonomic mouse and keyboard. And given the rise of video chatting, you may also need a webcam because freestanding monitors typically don't come with one built in.

Choosing a Processor and an OS

Speed matters. Processors with multiple cores can process more data simultaneously.

Clock speed, measured in gigahertz, along with the number of cores and other factors, determines how quickly a processor can process information. Many processors can up the speed a bit for a brief time to yield maximum performance. Generally, within a processor family, the higher the clock speed, the faster the processor. Clock speeds typically start at around 1 GHz for a mobile processor. Speeds can exceed 5 GHz for a desktop processor.

If you're looking for a very basic or budget computer to browse the web, check email, and work on Office documents, basically every processor on the market should be sufficient.

If you plan to watch high-definition videos or play mainstream games, the Intel Core i5 and AMD Ryzen 5 line of processors should be your starting point.

How Much Memory?
The more memory a computer has, the faster it is, up to a point. Memory is measured in gigabytes. On desktops, 8GB has become common, with 16GB or more found on higher-end devices. Unless you regularly have multiple demanding apps open at the same time, 8GB should be your target.

Operating System
Windows 11, the latest version of Microsoft's long-running operating system, should be preinstalled on most PCs. If it's not, it's a free upgrade from Windows 10. Windows 11 adds a refreshed user interface (which now resembles macOS) and deeper integration with OneDrive, Microsoft's cloud storage service, and is otherwise very similar to Windows 10.

A huge assortment of software can be downloaded for the platform from Microsoft's app store and developer websites. Games tend to debut on Windows before making their way to macOS, for instance. Microsoft releases free updates throughout the year, adding features, fixing bugs, etc.

Macs can be a little more expensive than comparable PCs, but they're less prone to most viruses and spyware (in part because there are more Windows PCs out there than Macs, making them a bigger target for hackers). The latest version of macOS is called Monterey and was released in fall 2021. Apple also releases several macOS updates free throughout the year.

Desktop Computers Ratings

All About Drives, the Battery, and More

Solid state drives: SSDs are faster than traditional hard drives in part because they don't have any moving parts. An SSD can offer a great performance boost to a computer that's outfitted with a traditional hard drive, which has a spinning hard disk and uses more power than an SSD. In general, Consumer Reports recommends solid state drives over hard drives.

Hard Drives
Hard-drive sizes are measured in gigabytes and terabytes; they commonly range from 250GB to more than 1TB.

Speed is equally important and is measured in rpm (revolutions per minute). A slow hard drive will take longer to start up the operating system and programs, and to complete tasks (such as installing programs or scanning your hard drive for viruses).

For best performance, get a desktop with at least a 7,200-rpm hard drive.

Optical Drives
If you need a CD or DVD reader to, say, access old files or watch a movie that's not available on a streaming service, you can find an external optical drive that plugs into a USB port for around $20 to $30.

Graphics Adapter and Graphics Memory
Also known as the video card, graphics processing unit (GPU), or graphics card, this hardware is responsible for drawing what you see on your screen. Graphics processing comes in two basic flavors: It can be integrated into the same chip that's running the rest of the computer, or it can run on a discrete piece of equipment.

Most computers have integrated graphics. This has usually been the less expensive and lower-performing option-fine for most tasks but not for serious gaming. If you play mainstream and extreme games with all the visual effects turned on or if you edit video, especially high-definition and ultra-high def (4K), you'll want discrete graphics. Light video editing and gaming, and all other typical computer tasks, will do fine with integrated graphics.

Desktop Computers Ratings

Although most desktop computers come with a basic, predefined set of features, that doesn't mean you don't have choices.

Recently Tested Computers

BEST TIME TO BUY: August, September, November, December Do you know when is the best time to buy Computers? Learn more

More From Consumer Reports

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A desktop computer can be a smart and ergonomic pick if you're setting up a home office and aren't worried much about mobility. Staring into a monitor puts less strain on your neck than staring down into a laptop. You also generally get more power per dollar spent with a desktop than you do with a laptop.

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There are several models and brands of computers available nowadays. Buying one can be overwhelming if you don't know what to look for. The best computer is one that meets your needs. To make finding the right choice easier for you, we listed some factors to consider before making a purchase.

Determine where you will use it

You may purchase a computer mainly for work, for gaming, or both. Determining where you will use it will shape your decision-making.

Your requirements will vary depending on its use and what you want to achieve. For instance, if you will use it for work, consider the specifications of the applications or software you need. If you use it for gaming, it should let you play smoothly for better enjoyment.

Choose between a laptop and desktop computer

Laptops and desktops have their pros and cons. Laptops are generally more expensive, but they are portable, so you can bring them with you wherever you go. While there are high-cost desktop PCs, there are also models with excellent specifications that are more affordable. For example, you will find gaming PCs under 500 that offer outstanding performance.

Replacing or upgrading parts is also easier than with a laptop. However, a desktop computer is not handy. While you can move it from one place to another, it is inconvenient since you need to disassemble, then set it up again.

Also, if you go for a desktop computer, there are different types to choose from. The full-size desktop PC is the most affordable, although it requires more space because of its size. It's also the easiest to upgrade or change parts.

Compact desktop computers are slimmer than the latter, but they aren't easy to fix or upgrade. The all-in-one desktop has everything together, making it the most space-saver, but like the compact, repair and upgrade are also challenges. There is no separate system unit that holds the CPU and other components as it comes with the monitor.

Decide if you want Windows or Mac

The comfort of their use depends on your preference. Some find Mac easier to navigate, while others prefer Windows. Shops selling computers usually have different models available for testing. Use these computers and explore them to see which you like better. Also, Mac is on the expensive side, while Windows computers are more affordable.

Moreover, more applications are compatible with Windows, while they are only limited to Mac. However, Mac is more secured than Windows, although it doesn't mean that it has zero risks of being infected by a virus. Since there are more users of Windows, and it supports more programs, hackers and virus creators focus on these computers more.

Consider the CPU and memory

CPU is the heart of the computer, and it dictates its power and performance. The minimum CPU for an average performance is a dual-core, although a quad-core gives more power and better performance. However, if you use the computer for hardcore gaming or video editing, you will need a more robust model.

A six-core or higher CPU is an excellent choice. When it comes to memory, a PC with 8GB to 16GB RAM is a perfect choice. A 32GB RAM may be too much unless the programs that you use require it. Those who perform heavy editing of videos use it.

See how much storage you need

The hard drive is where you will save the installed applications and also your files. Depending on the sizes of programs you install and how many files you need to save, you can get a computer with 500GB or higher storage.

Consider the factors listed above when deciding which computer to purchase. Check on other features too that you might find helpful, such as Bluetooth and Wi-Fi.
Have any thoughts on this? Let us know down below in the comments or carry the discussion over to our Twitter or Facebook.
Editors' Recommendations:

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How to choose the best computer that meets your needs

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There are several models and brands of computers available nowadays. Buying one can be overwhelming if you don't know what to look for. The best computer is one that meets your needs. To make finding the right choice easier for you, we listed some factors to consider before making a purchase.

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Assembling a computer yourself is a good way to learn how they work.

If you've been beating yourself up about doing nothing productive during our never-ending pandemic, stop. Sometimes doing nothing is exactly what you need. Other times, it's nice to make something with your own hands. That's what this guide is about: how to build a PC from scratch.

It can be daunting for a lot of reasons-it's expensive, it's complex, it can get messy. But I want to be clear: If you can build an Ikea table, bookshelf, bed, or anything that comes in more than one of those deceivingly heavy flat packs, you can build a PC. The tricky part? I can't tell you how to build your PC. Not really. Not unless I know exactly which hardware you're using. I can, however, explain what each component does and what my recommendations are for each category.

Once you've built your shiny new PC, it might be time to check out some other stuff to further accessorize your new partner in crime. Be sure to have a look at our guides for the best gaming keyboards, best gaming mice, best gaming headsets, and best gaming controllers.

Updated April 2022: We've removed some picks that are hard to find, added a section on buying advice, and added more information to each product most affected by shortages.

Special offer for Gear readers: Get a 1-year subscription to WIRED for $5 ($25 off). This includes unlimited access to WIRED. com and our print magazine (if you'd like). Subscriptions help fund the work we do every day.

If you buy something using links in our stories, we may earn a commission. Learn more.

First, Let's Talk Shortages

For several years now we've been in the midst of a PC hardware shortage. First, cryptocurrency miners bought up all the GPUs to farm crypto, then we got hit by a worldwide silicon shortage, and then there was that whole pandemic thing. Point is, it's tough to get all the parts you need to build a PC, it has been for years, and it's likely to continue being tough for the foreseeable future. I can't fix a global logistics crisis, but I can give you some pointers on shopping during one.

When you're shopping for components, make sure you're buying from a reputable vendor. You may think you're buying from a large online store like Amazon, Walmart, or Newegg, but they allow third-party sellers to list products as well. There's usually a little notice that will tell you as much, right underneath the buy button.

If it's shipped and sold from someone who isn't Amazon, Walmart, or Newegg, you're probably going to pay more for the component than its retail price. For instance, our top motherboard pick retails for $130, but as of this writing its listed on Newegg for $205. It's shipped and sold from a third-party retailer, hence the markup. First-party sales (when the product is shipped and sold by the store whose site you're visiting) tend to have better prices that hew closer to the actual manufacturer suggested retail price (MSRP) of the item.

We've tried to stick to first-party sales, but sometimes components are just not available through anyone but a third party. In that case, my advice is don't spend more than 50 percent over the MSRP on any of these components. Give yourself a hard budget and please don't pay double or triple what any of these components are worth.

We've added buying advice to each category most affected by the shortage to speak more specifically to each component's scarcity, but in general just know that building a PC right now is probably going to cost you more than you'd expect.

What Do You Need?

In order to get a list of components together, no matter what your experience level is, you should use PCPartPicker. Not only does it have everything you need to buy, it also lets you build your PC piece by piece right on the website and makes sure all your hardware will play nicely together. It even has a few example builds you can tweak to your liking.

Regardless of what kind of PC you're building ( home office or gaming), the components you need are going to be the same. You'll need a motherboard, a central processing unit (CPU), storage, memory, a power supply, a case, and a monitor. The only thing you might not need if you're mostly using this PC for home-office tasks is a GPU (graphics processing unit), but it's necessary for photo or video editing and gaming. That's a lot of stuff! Here's a little breakdown of what each component does, along with some hardware recommendations.

Every other component plugs into this circuit board. It's the highway they use to communicate and collaborate. They come in different sizes and configurations, and each one looks a little different, but they all fill the same function. Make sure you know which processor you want before you buy a motherboard.

Motherboards come in a couple of flavors, but the most important thing to know is what kind of socket it has. There are basically two: LGA and AM. You'll always see them listed with a number after them, like "LGA1150" or "AM3." The exact numbers after the LGA and AM portions of these socket names will change over time, to indicate which generation of Intel or AMD chips they support, but the current standards as of 2022 (which will work with the latest chips from either maker) are LGA1200 for Intel and AM4 for AMD.

Motherboards also come in a couple of sizes, the most common being ATX (or "full size"). That's what I generally recommend, especially if this is your first build. Your PC case will list which size motherboard it supports, so make sure they match up.

Buying advice: Motherboards are less scarce than the other components on this list. We try to keep this list updated regularly with prices that aren't too much higher than MSRP, but if any of the prices here skyrockets between updates, shop around. Your chances of finding a reasonably priced motherboard are much better than your chances of finding a good price on a GPU.

This is the brain of your computer. It sockets directly into the motherboard, and it's the single most important component of your PC. That doesn't mean it has to be the most expensive (we'll get to that later). If the CPU doesn't mention including thermal paste, get some. Don't eat your CPU. I know it looks tasty, but it's not actually food.

Buying advice: You're going to see the highest markups on your CPU and GPU. But these prices will move around quite a bit, so keep checking back if you can't afford the component you want at the moment.

If you'll be playing games on this PC, you'll need a graphics processing unit (also called a graphics card). This is a specialized processor that's designed and optimized for handling visual data like the graphics in games. It's also used in video and photo editing and other graphics-intensive tasks.

Buying advice: These cards are tough to find in stock (or at a reasonable price) at the moment, so you may have to wait a while. Graphics cards are among the most in-demand PC components right now, and their prices are way higher than they should be. That's why the picks on this list are generally mid- to high-end. If you're going to pay through the nose for a graphics card, make sure it's a good one.

Radeon RX 6800 XT: If you're going all-out, the RX 6800 XT is my top choice right now. It's a beast of a GPU that can handle anything you throw at it. Even Cyberpunk 2077 at full 4K resolution.

This is your PC's walk-in closet. This is where you store all your files, your games, your movies, your documents, your photos, your everything. You can always add more storage later.

Western Digital Black 1TB PCIe Internal SSD: This lightning-fast NVMe drive is a good option for nearly any gaming system. It has incredible read and write speeds of up to 7,000 and 5,300 megabytes per second respectively, making it fast enough to not only store all of your games, but possibly your operating system as well. It's also available in M.2 varieties.

You'll see a lot of the same terms when you're looking at memory and storage, but they're very different. Memory is more like that one table you toss things on to deal with later. It's scratch paper; it's short-term. It's very important, though, because software uses memory to cache (temporarily store) data in a place where it can be retrieved quickly.

Your power supply unit is a little box that keeps the electricity running to every component. It determines how quick and powerful your PC can be. The faster it is, the more power it needs, and you always want to have a little more than you need, just in case. Just like GPUs, PSUs are also in and out of stock right now.

Your case is just what it sounds like. It's a metal box. It might be covered in glass panels and etched aluminum, but inside it's just a big metal box that holds everything together. Make sure you match it up with your motherboard size. For example, if you have an ATX motherboard, you need an ATX (or "full-size") case.

Corsair Obsidian Series ATX Full Tower: There are lots of kinds of cases. Some are super small, others are enormous. And your decision will ultimately come down to the design you like as much as anything else. If you're unsure what to get, this one is great for your first build. Other case manufacturers we like are NZXT, Fractal, Phanteks, Cooler Master, and Lian Li.

MSI Gungnir 100 ATX Mid-Tower Case: This budget-friendly case is a solid option for most people. Be aware that it'll be a tight fit-there's almost no wiggle room for bulky cables or hyperspecific configurations. It looks nicer than you'd think for the money, and the RGB button syncs up your lights with very little effort. The smokey tempered glass allows them to shine through without turning your office into an EDM show.

When you build a PC, you don't automatically have Windows included. You'll have to buy a license from Microsoft or another vendor and make a USB key to install it. Or you can check out the newly released Windows 11. Here's a little more information about what all you get out of the newest version of Windows.

Putting It All Together

The internal layout of every gaming PC is a little different, so we're not going to get too far into the weeds here. Your best bet for specific instructions for your hardware will be referencing your manuals and searching for your components on YouTube. It can be super helpful to actually see a person handle and install your exact hardware, especially when you're stuck and can't quite figure out what the hell your manual is talking about. But here are some general tips for putting all these components together.

First, prep yourself a clean workspace. This can be a dining room table, a cleared-off desk-just any surface big enough for your case to lay flat on its side, with ample room around it for the rest of your components. You'll also need a Phillips-head screwdriver that will fit the screws on your case. When you put these parts together, be sure to discharge any static buildup and work on a nonmetallic surface like a wooden table. Or you could just assemble the motherboard on top of the cardboard box it comes in.

Most of the components you bought are going to come with instruction manuals; keep them handy. We're going to start with the motherboard, so open up the instruction manual to the installation page. It can be pretty intimidating-there's a lot to look at-but think of all this as a big Lego set. Each piece fits into each other piece. For the motherboard, your first job is going to be seating your CPU.

Depending on what kind of CPU you purchased (Intel or AMD), the chip will have either little prongs on one side (don't touch them) or little golden contacts on one side (don't touch them). Seriously, don't touch that side of your chip. Oils from your fingertips can damage the contacts, or you might bend a pin. Do either one and your processor becomes nothing more than an expensive hunk of silicon.

Seating your processor is pretty easy. First, double-check your motherboard's instructions and make sure you've unlocked the processor socket. It'll be a big square with a bunch of little holes (or contacts), with a lever or button beside it. Your motherboard's instructions will say explicitly how to unlock the socket so you can put your processor in without any issues.

Once you've confirmed that it's unlocked and ready, just find which corner of your processor has a little golden triangle and line it up with the same symbol on your motherboard's processor socket. Gently lower the processor into the socket, then gently flip the latch or locking mechanism. You shouldn't have to fight it. If you have to press really hard, double-check that the processor is socketed correctly.

Next, you're going to need your thermal paste. That little tiny plastic syringe of silvery goo is very important for this next step. Now that your processor is seated, take a look at the shiny square of silicon in the center of it. That's where your heat sink is going to sit. Your processor came with a heat sink, and on one side of it, you'll see a copper circle. You're going to be putting the heat sink directly on top of the processor after we apply the thermal paste, with the silicone square and the copper circle lining up perfectly.

Go ahead and carefully squeeze a tiny ball (no bigger than a pea) of thermal paste onto the silicon square on your processor. You'll want it as close to the center as you can get.

Now line up your heat sink with the screws surrounding your processor, and gently lower it into place. You're gonna squish the thermal paste, and the goal here is to create a thin layer covering the back of your processor. It's OK if it oozes a little bit, but if it oozes out and over the edge of the processor, you used too much. Get some isopropyl alcohol, dab it on a lint-free wipe, and wipe the processor and heat sink. Wait till they're thoroughly dry and try again.

If it looks all right, screw your heat sink into place. Flip back to your motherboard instruction book and find the right place near the processor socket to plug in your heat sink's cooling fan. It should be very close to your processor socket. Once you've found it, plug it in-congratulations, you just installed a CPU. This was the hardest part, and it's over. Good job!

Installing Your Storage and Memory

Memory is maybe the easiest thing to install. See those vertical little sockets beside the CPU? Line up your sticks of RAM and slot them in, starting from the left-hand slot. They'll lock into place once you've seated them properly. If you have two sticks of RAM, make sure to skip a slot between them. Your motherboard manual should say which slots to use.

For your hard drive or solid-state drive (SSD), find an empty bay in the front-facing part of your case. Slide your drive in and screw it into place. If you have an M.2 drive (a tiny SSD about the size of a stick of gum), there should be a place on the motherboard where you slot it in directly. Check out your motherboard's manual to see where the M.2 slot is if you can't find it.

Installing Your Motherboard and Power Supply

The rest of this is formulaic. Start by putting your motherboard into your case. Consult your motherboard's instructions, line up the screw holes in the case with the ones on your motherboard, and get to work.

Next, you'll want to install your power supply. There should be a spot for it near the top or bottom of the case, a big square spot that will fit your supply perfectly. If you're having trouble finding it, look at the back of your case: There'll be a big empty square. That's where the power supply goes (and where you'll plug in your PC when you're all done). Once you've found its home, slot it in and screw it into place.

Make sure all the snaky cables coming out of the power supply will reach your motherboard with room to spare. Don't plug in anything yet; we're going to come back to the power supply in a bit.

Installing Your Graphics Card

Your GPU is going to be pretty big. Even a modestly powerful GPU like the GTX 1060 is large compared to your other components. That means how it fits into your case is important. Once you put your GPU in there, space is going to start getting tight.

Flip open your motherboard's instruction book again and look for a PCIe slot. It's going to be a horizontal slot with a little plastic latch beside it, near the middle or bottom of your motherboard. That's where the GPU plugs in. All you need to do is identify the back of your GPU (the side with the HDMI and DisplayPorts), line that up with the back of your case, and push the GPU into the horizontal slot. It should lock into place easily enough; if it doesn't, make sure you're inserting it correctly.

Find another one of those tiny little screws and fasten your GPU to the case. There's a little spot for that on the same piece of metal with the HDMI ports. It should be easy to find.

Now, take a look at the cables coming out of your power supply. There should be a few that look like they could fit into the square (or rectangular) socket on the side of your GPU. It should look like six or eight little holes in a rectangle shape. If you're having trouble, take a look at this video from hardware manufacturer Asus. Some of the specifics will be different, but it's a great look at how to install a GPU.

The motherboard needs to be hooked into all your devices. The power supply unit I used in this build is what's called fully modular, which means that you can select the cables you need and leave the rest off to eliminate clutter. Otherwise, power supplies have a ton of cables, and you'll have to deal with the unused power connections dangling inside your case. You'll need to connect the PSU to the SSD and the motherboard.

You also need to plug the motherboard into your case-the power buttons, audio plugs, and USB ports on the front of your case. There are special headers for each kind of plug scattered around the board, so you'll want to check your manual for the location and function of each grouping of pins. These tiny pins need to be plugged in a certain way, and they're unbelievably minuscule. There's also a hookup for the case's fan-in the case I used there was one header on the motherboard but three fans installed. Then there's the SATA cable for your SSD, which plugs into the motherboard.

This part of your build really depends on the hardware you purchased, so consult the manuals for each component to ensure you've correctly plugged it into your motherboard and the power supply.

Boot It Up and Install Windows

The final stage of your build is a simple one: Hit your power button. If the PC whirs to life, you probably put it together perfectly! If it doesn't, don't despair. There are a lot of potential problems that could cause a PC to fail to boot up for the first time. This video from Kingston goes over some pitfalls that might cause you some headaches, so if you're not able to boot your PC, give it a watch and retrace your steps.

There's also a chance you could have received faulty components. This video goes over some tips on how to check your parts. In general, if you're having trouble with a specific component, YouTube is your friend. There are tons of helpful PC-building tutorials.

If it started up just fine, the next step is super easy: Turn it off. Remember that Windows flash drive you made earlier? Plug it into the PC and boot it up again. If you set it up right, your computer should just do its thing and get started installing Windows. If not, you might need to open your BIOS (check your motherboard's manual for how to do that) and set the USB drive to be a "boot device" first. Here's a brief rundown of that process (start at step 3).

You Did It!

Congratulations on building your first PC. It's a bit of a pain, but it's a great way to spend an afternoon. Or a couple of days, depending on how many unforeseen headaches you run into. Seeing as the pandemic hasn't totally gone away, you can use your new PC to help you spend all those extra indoor hours productively (or just grinding out loot in Warframe).

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Assembling a computer yourself is a good way to learn how they work. If you've been beating yourself up about doing nothing productive during our never-ending pandemic, stop. Sometimes doing nothing is exactly what you need. Other times, it's nice to make something with your own hands.

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It might be hard sourcing PC components right now, but learning how to build a PC is still a fulfilling task, regardless of what the best graphics cards are going for right now. The process actually remains the same - you need to research and choose the components that will make up the you're trying to put together. After all, you want a PC that you can show off with pride.

If you've never built a PC before, it can be a scary undertaking, especially considering that it is a good amount of work. Though a lot of people act like it's an easy task building a , you might find it a discouraging process your first time around. And, that's okay.

And, before you get too down about any issues you're facing, we're here to help. We've built quite a few PCs and have used our expertise to put together this step-by-step guide so you can build your PC in no time. We'll make it as painless as possible and take you from beginning to end.

(Image credit: DisobeyArt / Shutterstock)

What kind of PC do you need?

These days, basically everyone needs a decent PC to get through life, but they come in so many shapes and sizes that it's important to know what you're trying to build before you even get started.

For instance, if you're just going to be using your PC to do daily office work - like web browsing or writing up documents - you don't need to drop thousands of dollars on a fancy gaming rig. Building a PC with something like the AMD Ryzen 5 5600G will get you a quick and responsive PC that will last you years, with enough graphics horsepower to get you through all tasks that most people experience on a day-to-day basis.

However, there are plenty of people that need something with a bit more oomph. Computers are legitimately more powerful now than they've ever been, and there's never been more options to build something that will tear through the best PC games like they were so much paper. But, powerful hardware like the Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 and the AMD Ryzen 9 5900X come at a high price.

Luckily, if you're on more of a budget, you can get something like an Intel Core i5-11600K and an Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 (if you can find one in stock at a decent price, that is), and have an incredible 1080p gaming machine. And, that will be able to get some video editing done on the side too.

Tools of the trade

Although a single phillips screwdriver is all you need to construct a PC, you may want a few more things on hand just in case. For example, needle nose pliers or a simple pair of tweezers may come in handy to place screws into tight places or retrieve them.

Zip ties are useful for tidying up all your PC cables and luckily, you most likely won't have to buy them as they often come included with several different types of computer parts. You'll also need a pair of side cutters (or just scissors) to cut those said zip ties.

You can't go wrong with an anti-static wrist strap, either - though you can get away with not having one. Unless you've been running around on carpet all day, or have cats, you likely aren't holding enough static charge to damage the electronics. Just do yourself a favor and discharge any latent electricity by placing your hand on metal, like your PC case or power supply.

As for your workspace, you're going to want to clear off a good bit of table space, as you'll likely be flipping your PC on its side, feet, back and any which way to install everything.

And, before we forget, it's a good idea to get a monitor, keyboard and mouse set up before you start building, so you have something to plug it into when the building is done. You should also have a power socket and internet connection available.

It's hard to find a modern build with an optical drive these days, so put the Windows 10 installer onto a USB stick ( we'll show you how). If you can't find a handy thumb drive and a laptop, we would cannibalize an older rig for a CD drive, or even just buy one - you can find them online for less than 10 bucks these days.

It's time, to build. Finally.

After spending weeks coming up with a list of PC components, waiting anxiously for them to go on sale, and getting them delivered to your door, it's time. You've got a phillips head screwdriver in hand, and you're ready to go.

Now for the purposes of our PC building guide, we've used these following parts as an example of how to build a complete computer. These components are also exactly what you need to construct an modest - if a little last generation - gaming PC.

Here are some PC component deals to get your PC build started

Step by step
1. Strip down
First thing you'll want to do is strip the case down as far as you can go. Remove every panel that you can, and store them in a safe place (inside the case box is the best bet). We recommend using a bowl (or a magnetic parts tray if you want to be fancy) to hold your screws throughout your PC building process.
2. Fan-tastic
If you've purchased some replacement or extra cooling fans, now is the time to install them where you need them. Try to keep your cooling setup balanced, so there's as much air being drawn in, as is being blown out. In case you're not sure which way the wind will go, the plastic fan guards usually denotes where the air will come through.

Typically you want two fans in the front drawing air in and at least one in the rear blowing air out. You could also screw one or two more optional fans into the roof of the PC case for additional exhaust, if your PC case has mounting points for them.
3. Mobo Installation
Before we get to install the motherboard, you'll want to check on a few things about your PC case. Check for pre-installed motherboard standoffs, ensure the number and arrangement of them conforms to the holes found on your motherboard.

Secondly, see if your PC case has a large CPU cutout or window cut into the back of the motherboard frame. If it doesn't you may want to install any CPU cooler backplates and M.2 solid-state drives at this juncture.

Now that's done, first find your motherboard's rear I/O shield, and push it into the rectangular slot in the back of your PC case. Make sure it's right side up by matching the pattern of cutouts to the arrangement of ports on the back of your motherboard.

Next, lay your motherboard down inside the chassis - carefully lining up its rear ports with the corresponding holes in the I/O shield you just installed - on top of the standoffs installed in your chassis.

Then it's a simply case of securing the motherboard down with the screws that came with your chassis. Make sure you use the right ones here, as you don't want to thread the standoffs, in case you need to remove it at a later date.
4. CPU Installation
Next up, socket your CPU into the motherboard. Here's where things are a little different depending on which family and/or brand you decided to go with.

For Intel mainstream CPUs, slide the spring loaded retention arm out and up, then lift the bracket up leaving the plastic cover in place. Then, gently place your CPU inside the socket, matching the golden triangle located on the bottom left corner of the processor, with the triangle on the socket bracket.

For the next step, you should slide the securing bracket back into its original position so it locks in place underneath the screw, and secure the retention arm back down. During this process the protective plastic cover should pop off, so don't freak out if it comes flying at you. Be sure to stow the cover away in a safe place as it'll protect the motherboard's sensitive pins if you decide to remove the processor from the motherboard.

If you're installing an AMD CPU, fortunately installation is much less daunting. There's no bracket here, simply lift the retention arm in its raised position.

You should then take your processor and match the golden triangle on the corner of the Ryzen processor with the triangle on the socket. Once the pins on the bottom of the processor lineup with the holes on the socket, drop it into place. Give it a little nudge to make sure it's secure, then lower the retention arm back down and lock it into place.

Processor installation done, whew.
5. Memory Matters
Next on the agenda is installing computer memory. Push down the latches at either ends of the DDR4 slots on your motherboard. Then line up the notch on the bottom of the memory with the notch in the slot. After that, you can install the memory by carefully pushing down both sides of the memory into the slot. You should hear a clicking sound as the memory secures into place and the latches click back up.

Make sure you use the farthest and second closest slot from the CPU if you're only using two memory sticks. Complete that and you'll be good to go.
6. Cooler mounting
Here's the last complicate piece in the PC building process, CPU coolers.

Most third-party coolers require installing a backplate, which you may or may not have already done from step three of our PC building guide. Each individual cooler will have its own set of instructions your should follow, but the gist of most installations requires affixing a backplate and threading four pins though back of your motherboard.

From there you'll want to thermal paste if your CPU cooler didn't come with any pre-applied already. Users will want to squeeze out a small blob, around the size of half a pea, onto the middle of the CPU. This will spread out once your cooler is mounted, and provide a sufficient amount of thermal interface material to successfully transfer heat from the processor die to the cooler of your choosing.

For air coolers, you'll want to install most models with the fans unattached. Carefully orient the heatsink onto the pins or threads of the mounting plate and secure in place with any provided thumb screws or regular screws. After that it's simply a case of reattaching the fan to the tower, and plugging the 4-pin PWM fan header into the CPU Fan slot on the motherboard.

Liquid-coolers follow basically the same process, but require more upfront work. You'll probably have to attach fans onto the radiator and installing it into your PC case in advance. Depending on which liquid-cooler you're using, you may also need to plug in a second four-pin cable into a dedicated AIO cooler or optional cooler header on your motherboard.

This is also a good opportunity to plug in the rest of your system fans into any available slots on the board. Or alternatively, if your PC case has an integrated fan controller at the back of the chassis to route all your fans into, then directly onto the motherboard. It'll also need to connect to the motherboard via USB header.
7. Storage installation
Once memory is in, it's time to focus on some non-volatile memory storage, hard drives and solid-state drives. Our NZXT H400i happens to have a small SSD bracket on the front. Installing 2.5-inch drives into these caddies is a cinch, as you can simply slide it into place with the option of fully securing it with four screws.

Most modern PC cases comes with SSD bays of some sort. But if you're case doesn't, the 3.5-inch drive caddies typically reserved for hard drives should have compatible mounting points. No matter what type of storage drive you're installing, ensure the connection ports are facing towards a cable cut-out inside your chassis as it will make routing cables easier.
8. PSU positioning
Now you've got your motherboard, CPU and memory installed you're going to want to install your power supply next. If you've got a modular PSU, figure out what cables you need ahead of time, and plug them into your power supply first.

If your PC case comes with a PSU bracket, remove it ahead of time and attach it to the back of the unit. Next up thread the cables through the PSU slot in the back of the case first, and then slide the PSU into place, securing the bracket back onto the chassis.

Otherwise, on older cases you'll have to slip in the power supply in through the inside of the chassis and push it firmly against the inside wall as you attach it with four screws.

Depending on the design of your case, you'll want to orient the fan towards ventilation areas built into it. For most cases we suggest facing the fan downwards or to the side away from the interior of your PC. This way, your PSU can draw in fresh air and exhaust heat through the back.
9. All the buttons
To get your front I/O power buttons working properly, you need to plug in the correct cables. Fortunately, on our NZXT H400i, this is a single block that plugs directly onto the front I/O headers on the motherboard, make sure you orient it the correct way, then push it into place on the pins.

For everyone else, take the individual pins, and, using the motherboard installation handbook, identify which pins and cables need connecting. Try to do this part gently do, so as to not to bend the pins. It's important to note that any LED lights (HDD and Power), need to be oriented correctly, with the + and - cables installed into the + and - pins on the board.

It's also a good time to plug in your USB 3.0 header, USB 2.0 header, and audio passthrough. Audio is located on the bottom left of most motherboards. It will be labelled, and the pin outs will be different to the USB 2.0 headers. Install your USB 3.0 cables (denoted with a blue-colored end) into any available slots on the board, making sure to lineup the pins with the holes in the USB 3.0 cables.
10. Cable conundruming
Now you can plug in the rest of your power cables.

Identify your 8-pin EPS cable, and slide it up the back of the chassis, through the cable grommet and plug it into the 8 pin power slot at the top of the motherboard. Then, find the bulkier 24-pin cable, slide that through any cable routing recesses on the chassis and plug it into the corresponding 24-pin ATX power port on the motherboard.

Next up, take your SATA power and connect it to any storage drives. If you happen to have a something mounted onto the front of the case, run this SATA power cable through the PSU shroud, appropriate grommets or holes, and into your front mounted 2.5-inch drive. This is a good opportunity to plug in the SATA Data cables between any storage drives and the motherboard as well.

Lastly, you'll want to thread your PCIe power cable through the cutout in the PSU cover or any side grommets/holes, so that it's ready for when you install your GPU.
11. Graphically sound
Finally we have the last piece of the puzzle to slot into place.

First take a look at your motherboard and locate the PCIe slot closest to your processor. From there locate the two PCIe slots next to where you'll want to install your GPU and remove them. In most PC cases, that'll involve undoing two screws on the PCIe slot covers and removing them.

Take your graphics card out of the anti-static bag and line it up with the slots we just opened up. The rear I/O on the GPU should be facing out the back of the chassis. Once the gold contacts on your GPU make are touching the PCIe slot, gently push it into place until you hear a click. Then use the same screws we removed from the PCIe slot cover to secure the GPU into place.

Then it's simply a case of plugging your PCIe power that you routed in with our last step - and we have a fully built PC (mostly).
12. Into BIOS
Now the system's built, don't reattach all your panels just yet. First you'll want to make sure it actually turns on and runs properly.

Take your temporarily built tower over to your pre-setup computer space and plug it into power, a screen, keyboard and mouse too. Power it on, and mash the delete key to get into the BIOS screen. Check your CPU temp, make sure that's operating somewhere around 30-40 degrees C, and ensure that your boot drive is registering correctly.

If everything is showing up, now is also a good time to enable the XMP for Intel or DOCP for AMD to make sure your memory is operating at the correct frequency. Then hit F10, save and exit. Then power off.
13. Tidying up
Now that we're sure the machine is working, disconnect it again and bring it back to your workspace. It's worth doing this because you'll want to reattach all those PC case panels and tidy up any loose cables.

That means using cable ties to bunch together cables as much as you can. Most PC cases come to cable cut-outs to use as tie down points. Where they're aren't any, we usually use thicker cables to help push smaller ones flush against the inside of our computer chassis.
14. Installing Windows
Bring the system back to your computer space, where it'll sit forever - or at least until your next upgrade - as we'll want to install the operating system next.

Most modern rigs lack an optical drive to install your OS, so you'll need to create a USB install on another PC. To do this, download the Windows 10 Media Creation Kit and then install Windows 10 onto an USB stick with at least 8GB of space.

Then, once it's finished, simply plug it into your new system. Go back into your BIOS to tell your system to boot from the USB stick first. From there you can go through the prompts to install the operating system onto your new rig. Don't worry about not having a software key during installation, you can activate Windows 10 once you reach desktop.
15. Desktop maintenance
Once you're finally logged on, head on over to the manufacturer's website, find your motherboard, head to service, and download the correct chipset drivers for your system.

is a nifty tool to get all the programs you want fast without having to worry about installing each one individually is. On the Ninite site, you can select which programs you want, download the installer and let it run its magic. After that, go download and install the correct graphics driver for your card and you'll be all set to sit back and enjoy.

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How to build a PC: a step-by-step guide to building the best PC

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It might be hard sourcing PC components right now, but learning how to build a PC is still a fulfilling task, regardless of what the best graphics cards are going for right now. The process actually remains the same - you need to research and choose the components that will make up the you're trying to put together.

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