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1. Me and My Headshot selfie

Birthday and answers to questions

2. Motion with Metadata

3. Panoramic  DSLR

4. Panoramic iPhone

5. Panoramic Unique

6. Multiplicity: My Twin

7. Multiplicity x 5+

8. Polaroids from a single image

9. Extended panoramic

10. David Hockney Joiner-

11. Portrait Window Light

12. Winter Portraits Outside

13. HDR Style -enhanced portrait

14. Ambient Light Portrait with Device.

15. Obscured Portraits

16. Barbara Kruger word and image

17. Photoshop Composite- Scene, book, figure, (fruit, veggie or wordless cup)

18. Collage enhanced- Color Match and filter collage.

19. Mirror Image Effects

20. Kaleidoscope with Photoshop

21. Macro Bestie

22. Macro Grid of 11 via Photoshop

23. Concentration #1

23. Concentration #2

23. Concentration #3

23. Concentration #4

23. Concentration #5

23. Concentration #6

23. Concentration #7

24. Concentration Tear Sheet

25. creative self-portrait

26. a single word light drawing

27. light drawing choice

28. blacklight

29 shooting in darkness choice

30. shooting in darkness choice

31. slide show up load or link.

32. link to your magazine

extra credit favs

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Hi everyone, Photography teacher from Australia here! Stoked to be added to the group. I am also personally obsessed with photography - although two little toddlers leave little time for photos!

As well as teaching Photography in Aus, I also teach Visual arts and I'm a Canva Education Creator. This is one of my templates and I thought to share it here to celebrate the US back to school! I use these prompts for warm-ups, for kids who are disengaged, for project ideas, or just as a fun activity for when I'm away if students don't have a project they are working on.

I personally love this because it also teaches about the elements and helps students develop ways of seeing the world differently.

BTW, Canva is free for all educators and this template can be modified in any way, pages added, questions, examples etc!

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70 Photography Elements Prompts Workbook in Green Gold Illustrative Style - Templates by Canva

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70 Photography Elements Prompts Workbook in Green Gold Illustrative Style - Templates by Canva

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Use this customizable 70 Photography Elements Prompts Workbook in Green Gold Illustrative Style template and find more professional designs from Canva.

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View this post on Instagram

A post shared by PS Waraich (@instacoachps)

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Sports Action Photography | Tips & Tricks

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Sports Action Photography | Tips & Tricks

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How to Focus for Sharp Sports Photography (Camera Settings & Tips!)

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Subscribe Below to Download the Article Immediately

You can also select your interests for free access to our premium training:

Sports photography settings are all about capturing the action. But that isn't always easy. Everything moves fast, and the athletes aren't going to slow down so you can take a picture.
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A lot of the skill comes from knowing the sport and clicking your shutter at the right moment. But your camera settings are just as important when photographing sports. You must know the exposure triangle (shutter speed, aperture, and ISO). And knowing about burst mode is important too.

Sports Photography Settings (Camera Settings & Tips)

Here are our tips for capturing super-sharp sports photos. After reading this article, you'll never miss a goal, try, or home run!

1. Use a Fast Shutter Speed to Freeze the Action

A fast shutter speed is vital for sports photography. There's always a risk of motion blur when you have fast-moving subjects. And if you're photos are blurry, the viewers won't be able to see the action.

Using a fast shutter speed reduces the risk of motion blur. You should think of 1/500 s as your minimum speed. You need to go to 1/1000 s or faster for cycling and motorsports. If your subjects move faster, you need a faster shutter speed.

Shutter priority mode is a good option for sports photography. It's a semi-automatic mode that lets you control the shutter speed. Keep your shutter speed as fast as you need it to be while the camera takes care of the aperture and ISO.

If you get some test shots during the pre-game warmup, great! But remember, everyone moves at full pace when the whistle blows. You might need a faster shutter speed for the actual event.

2. Choose a Wide Aperture for a Bokeh Effect

The bokeh effect is the blurred quality in the background or foreground of some photos. It's the result of a shallow depth of field. And to get a shallow depth of field in your photos, you need to use a wide aperture.

Apertures can be confusing at first. F-stop numbers represent them. The wider the aperture, the smaller the f-number. So f/2.8 is a wider aperture than f/16.

A wide aperture like f/2.8 or f/1.4 gives you a shallow depth of field. And this gives your photos that soft blur in the background. And as long as your focus is correct, your subject still looks sharp.

Using a wide aperture also allows you to use a fast shutter speed. A wide aperture lets more light through. So you can capture the perfect exposure when you use a fast shutter. But I wouldn't use aperture priority mode. It's best if you use a fast shutter speed.

Many sports photographers like to use a telephoto lens. They're great for getting close to the action. But telephoto lenses have smaller aperture ranges than a standard zoom lens.

The max aperture of a telephoto might be f/5.6 instead of f/1.4. But the magnification effect of a telephoto lens means you can still achieve a bokeh effect.

3. Increase Your ISO Settings for More Light

There's nothing more pleasant than shooting a cricket match on a summer day. But you're never guaranteed sunshine. And sports events aren't always outside or during the day. You must deal with dark conditions during those night shoots or indoor events.

So what's the best way to get the most out of your camera when shooting sports in difficult conditions? Increase your ISO settings. When conditions are dark, you need as much light as possible.

You'll probably use a wider aperture, giving you more light. But the ISO also needs to increase when you need fast shutter speeds.

The higher you go with ISO, the higher the risk of digital noise. But even with beginner DSLR cameras, you can push the ISO to 1600. This helps maintain excellent image quality. You can go even higher if you use a more advanced camera and still capture fantastic sports photos.

4. Use Autofocus for More Creative Freedom

A good autofocus system is a great feature for sports photographers. You must consider the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO while keeping your eye on the game. With manual focusing on top of that, your head will spin.

Autofocus systems on modern cameras work best in high-contrast situations. Camera autofocus is easier, with a clear difference between the subject and surroundings. The difficulty comes when light and contrast are low.

Many professional-level cameras have advanced autofocuses. They lock onto a moving subject and track them across the frame. They ensure you get some great shots no matter how fast they move.

Autofocus systems in lower-level cameras aren't as reliable. They need more contrast to work well. This means you might need to find the best vantage point with better contrast to take your sports photos.

5. Use Continuous AF for Predictive Tracking

Predictive tracking is where your AF system predicts the movement of the subject. Internal AI tracks the subject by predicting where it will be next. It's impressive stuff. But you only find an autofocus system this sophisticated at the pricier end of the market.

A camera with a continuous autofocus mode is perfect for shooting sports photography. On Canon cameras, continuous focusing is labeled AF or AI Servo. On Nikon and Sony machines, select AF-C.

This mode activates predictive tracking when the AF system detects a moving subject. It continuously monitors the focus distance. When the distance from the camera to the subject changes, the focus is adjusted.

Do you want to compose a shot in which none of the AF points cover the subject? If so, you need to lock the focus distance by pressing the AF lock button. And for greater accuracy, choose a single AF point. Make sure it's in the area where most of the action is taking place.

6. Use Back Button Focus for Fast Focusing

Back button focus is when you move the focusing function. It goes from the shutter button to one of the buttons on the back of your camera. It's the most efficient way of using autofocus.

Instead of pressing the shutter button halfway down to focus, you press a button at the back of your camera. You use your thumb for the back button and your pointer finger to press the shutter. It might sound complicated at first. But it's quick. And every second counts in sports photography.

Pair back button focus and continuous focus. This helps you get excellent focus with difficult shots. If your subject is moving, you can hold down the focus button to track it and release the shutter at any time.

7. Use Burst Mode So You Never Miss a Shot

Burst or continuous shooting mode is another important feature of sports photography. Your camera captures several images in quick succession. So you can capture those moments where if you blink, you miss it.

All modern digital cameras have a burst mode, ranging from 8 to 30 frames per second (fps). DSLRs have a burst mode. But mirrorless cameras are the front-runners in this department. They use an electronic shutter which allows for a faster burst speed.

The problem with burst mode is the storage. Your memory card can fill up fast when you're shooting at 18 fps. It's best to save the burst mode when you need it.

8. Shoot In JPEG to Save Card Memory

Someone may have hammered into you that you should always shoot RAW images. But shooting in JPEG is beneficial for sports photography.

While RAW is better for editing photos, they take up more memory. JPEGs are smaller, so you can fit more on your memory card. And when you're shooting sports action, memory cards can fill up fast. You don't want to run out of space when the game goes into overtime.

Conclusion

Sports can be fast and ferocious. And a sports photographer needs to be ready to capture the action. That comes down to knowledge of the game and knowledge of your camera. So sports photography settings are crucial!

It helps if you have a fast shutter speed and a wide aperture. Then you need to master your autofocus and your burst mode. And shooting in JPEG is handy advice for sports photography.

These sports photography tips are sure to help you capture the action. And perfecting your camera settings means you won't miss any of the action. Check out our Photography Unlocked e-book. It will help you master your camera settings no matter what you're shooting!

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How to Focus for Sharp Sports Photography (Camera Settings & Tips!)

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Subscribe Below to Download the Article Immediately You can also select your interests for free access to our premium training: Sports photography settings are all about capturing the action. But that isn't always easy. Everything moves fast, and the athletes aren't going to slow down so you can take a picture.

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Photographing Sports Indoors and Out | Tips for Shooting Sports | Nikon

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Almost all of us have times when we need, or want, to shoot a sporting event. Perhaps your child is in a soccer program, a friend's kid is on a school softball team, a nephew in high school competes in track, or you're taking your camera to a professional event. Regardless of the sport, you can do several things to make the best pictures possible.

Catching the Action

First, think about where you want to position yourself. Think about where most of the action occurs in the sport you're photographing. In some sports, you can catch the action coming at you, if you're positioned correctly. Sometimes the top of the bleachers is the best place to shoot from, for that high angle, looking down on the court (especially good for volleyball). With amateur events, you can often move around and try different spots. If possible, leave the stands and go to the sidelines. That will put you closer to the action and at the players' eye-level.

Once you begin photographing a particular sporting event, you'll begin to realize that each sport brings its own sense of timing of the action. The more you shoot, the better your timing will become. Even the pros practice shooting at the beginning of a season to hone their sense of anticipation of the action of the game.

The best photos are taken at the peak action; this would be right as the basketball player jumps up to make a basket, just before a volleyball serve or when the cheerleaders have completed a pyramid. In baseball, action in the infield (catching, throwing, plays at bases and home plate) usually make the best pictures. In soccer, the most important action usually happens near the goal.

COMPOSITION: Think about your composition. Is the background cluttered? See if you can safely move to another position where you can compose an image that isn't full of distractions.

LENS CHOICE: More than likely you're going to want to use a telephoto lens on a Nikon DSLR, or a COOLPIX camera with a large zoom range. The most popular zoom lenses often reach out to 200mm or 300mm. The tighter you can shoot (the more you fill the frame), the better the pictures will look.

AUTOFOCUS: If there's fast action, make sure to change your camera's autofocus setting to Continuous. That way it will track the action to keep the photo in focus. And you may also want to set the AF points to Dynamic Autofocus to make it easier to keep the focus on your subject. If your camera has scene modes, you can choose the sports setting, which tells the camera that you are shooting sports and will need a fast shutter speed to capture the action.

FOCUS LOCK: If you seem to have trouble following the action and keeping it in focus, try setting the focus at one place and waiting for the action to get there. For example, during a baseball game, you can focus on a particular base and wait for the runner to get there. And, if you're pre-focusing on one spot, use either the focus lock button (often labeled "AF-L, or "AE-L AF-L"") or switch the autofocus to Manual and adjust it by turning the focus ring on the lens.

Exposure

The three things that control a photograph's exposure are shutter speed, lens aperture and ISO.

SHUTTER SPEED: The longer the camera's shutter stays open the more light enters. To stop action, a fast shutter speed is needed; the exact shutter speed needed depends on the subject you're shooting. To avoid blur, try to get your shutter speed fairly high; 1/500 should be the minimum and 1/1000 or above is even better. You may have to raise your ISO for the shutter speed you want to use.

APERTURE: Lens aperture, called an f/stop, is the size of the hole in the lens that light passes through. The larger the hole (smaller the f/stop number) the more light is passed and consequently the faster the shutter speed can be. Each lens has a maximum f/stop which limits how much light can pass through the lens. A "fast" lens has a very wide open f/stop (such as f/2.8 or f/1.4) and a slower lens may only be able to open to f/3.5. Some zoom lenses have a variable aperture which means the further you extend the zoom, the slower the lens becomes. [We'll discuss this in more detail in a bit.]

ISO: The ISO setting controls the sensitivity of the camera to light. A higher ISO setting (ISO 1600 or 3200) is more sensitive to light and allows a faster shutter speed (or a lens with a slower maximum aperture) to be used.

Added Challenges of Indoor Sports

Indoor sports can be especially challenging to photography for a number of reasons. Often, the venue-whether a professional sports arena or high school gym-is not well lit. And, the lighting may be a mix of unusual colors such as florescent, tungsten and mercury vapor. Digital cameras need to know the color of the light coming from the light sources in order to make sure the final image displays correctly. Since each type of lighting is a different color the camera must compensate (just like our eyes and brain do). In these situations a custom preset white balance (if your camera supports it) may yield a better result.

A camera's built-in flash generally has a fairly short working distance, perhaps to 10-20 feet, or less in a large room with no nearby walls or ceilings to help reflect light. A more powerful hot-shoe mounted flash can extend the working distance of the flash, but may still have trouble lighting all but the closest subjects in a large gym or arena. Be sure to check with the coach, referee, or event official before using a powerful flash, as sometimes flash can be distracting or dangerous to the players.

When professional sports shooters are on assignment covering indoor sports, they'll often have access to rig lighting in the arena's rafters, so the flash lighting comes from above and therefore isn't aimed into the players' eyes. We all can't be so privileged, so we have to use photographic technique and our gear to our advantage instead.

Compensating for Low-Light

As we learned above, to capture the action of fast moving athletes, you generally need to use a fast shutter speed to stop the action. In order to use a fast shutter speed a lens that allows a lot of light in, one with a fast maximum aperture is required. If your lens is not fast you can boost the ISO value to compensate, but be aware of the limitations when using high ISO settings. In many cases, as in high school gyms, the light level is sometimes so low that even with a high ISO (like 1600) and aperture of f/5.6, the fastest shutter speed that can be used still will not be fast enough to stop action. In these cases the only option is to use a lens with faster maximum aperture, such as one that opens to f/2.8.

To further complicate indoor sports shooting, generally you will be far from the action and a long focal length will be needed to "zoom in" on the subject. Most zoom lenses are "variable" aperture which means that as you zoom their f/stops become smaller and gather less light. A variable aperture lens might have an f/stop range of f/3.5-5.6, which means its widest aperture is f/3.5 and when you extend the zoom, the widest aperture closes down to f/5.6. A "constant aperture" lens, like the AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II lens has a fast f/2.8 aperture through its entire zoom range and is an ideal indoor lens for sports. Another option would be to use a fixed focal length lens, such as the AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G. At first it can be more difficult to shoot with a fixed focal length lens (since you can't "zoom" in and out) but these lenses are generally much faster and more economical than a fast zoom lens.

While there are many different options and settings available on most cameras, the settings below will give a Nikon D-SLR user a good starting place for indoor sports shooting.

* Set the exposure mode to Aperture Priority and set the f/stop to it's widest settings (i.e. f/2.8, f/4 or f/5.6)

* If your camera has an Auto ISO feature, turn it on and set the Max Sensitivity to ISO 1600 and the Min Shutter Speed to 1/60 of a second. You may need to adjust this setting if you find that 1/60 of a second isn't fast enough to freeze the action.

* Focus settings can vary greatly depending on the sport you are shooting. In general, one of the "Dynamic-area AF" modes will be the best for many sports.

For COOLPIX users, the basic "A" Auto shooting mode will generally be the best option, however, in dimly lit venues many compact digital cameras won't have high enough ISO settings or lenses with fast enough apertures to stop most action.

Other great images can be made of the gear on the field, such as a pile of hockey pucks or baseball bats leaning against a fence.

While shooting indoor sports can be challenging, with good equipment, some skills and practice it's possible to get well-exposed, sharp photos in most locations under most conditions.

Finally, remember that just because the action is over, the emotion isn't. Those moments can be just as important as the action shots.

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Photographing Sports Indoors and Out | Tips for Shooting Sports | Nikon

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Almost all of us have times when we need, or want, to shoot a sporting event. Perhaps your child is in a soccer program, a friend's kid is on a school softball team, a nephew in high school competes in track, or you're taking your camera to a professional event.

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11 jaw-dropping photos of marsupials, mushrooms, and more

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Wildlife Photographer of the Year is developed and produced by the Natural History Museum, London.

From the tops of Mount Olympus in Pieria, Greece, to the sandy floors of Rijeka, Croatia, the Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition explores nature's magic through the "eyes" of cameras. With each shot and submission, photographers reveal unique moments in the great outdoors in luminous detail, letting us catch a glimpse of the hidden lives of animals, plants, and other natural elements. Maybe it's from the bow of a weathered fishing boat, encrusted in sea salt, as a local fisherman hauls in the day's catch under the Ecuadorian sunlight. Or maybe it's from a chilly prairie covered in fresh snow, as a shaggy bison shakes powdery flakes from its fur.

As the founder and long-time organizer of Wildlife Photographer of the Year, the National History Museum in London has remained committed to sharing entries from eminent photographers who documented natural history subjects, expeditions, and museum exhibits. The winners of the 59th contest will be announced in October and will be followed by a new gallery at the museum. Until then, enjoy these highly commended images selected from thousands of award-worthy images by the judging panel.

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11 jaw-dropping photos of marsupials, mushrooms, and more

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Get a sneak peek at the 2023 Wildlife Photographer of the Year awards, hosted by the National History Museum in London.

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Landscape Photographer Says People Don't Believe His Pictures Are Real

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An award-winning photographer who has people doubting whether his work is genuine tells PetaPixel that he does not use composites and the otherworldly landscapes he visits is partly to blame.

Aytek Cetin won the International Landscape Photographer of the Year award in 2021 for a series of amazing photos shot in Cappadocia in Turkey, a place famous for its "fairy chimneys" and hot air balloons.

"I had questions about the fairy chimneys photographs with some people saying they can't be real, and I replied to these people that the rock formations in those photographs were genuine," he says.

"I regularly organize photography tours to that region. The lighting conditions and the atmosphere can vary, but I'm thinking that it wouldn't be fair to take people to a place that doesn't look like the one in the photo."

Cetin says that he doesn't use composites but will employ different shooting techniques to get the best results.

"In most of my photos, I use focus stacking for maximum clarity. Sometimes if I'm photographing a mountain in the background, it looks much smaller and farther away than with the effect of the ultra-wide angle lens, in this case, I use the focal blending technique," he says.

"For example, I shoot the flowers in the foreground at 15mm and the mountain in the background at 30mm and then combine them with Photoshop. Of course, apart from these shooting techniques, I love editing photos and adding my artistic perspective to the images."

Cetin adds that he will also dramatize the scene with light and shadow adjustments and make touches to "increase the feeling of depth of field."

Finding Great Locations for Landscape Photography

To capture the type of photos Cetin has in his portfolio, one must research areas thoroughly. The Turkish photographer will examine all the photos of a location available on the internet and then use Google Earth to identify potential shooting angles.

"Of course, there is also the physical challenge part of it," he adds.

"For example, you want to photograph a remote area in the Himalayas, but there is no transportation, so you have to hike for long days for only one spot. For such challenging areas, you need to prepare yourself both mentally and physically beforehand. But when you finally got the photo you want, you feel it's worth it!"

Cetin has spent plenty of time capturing his native Turkey, a huge country spanning two continents. However, he plans to push into Asia to photograph more mysterious and lesser-known mountain ranges.

Winning International Landscape Photographer of the Year

Cetin says that winning the prestigious prize has helped his career, attracting more people to his online courses and field training.

"I believe it is the most prestigious award in the field of landscape photography, and I can say that it has many pluses for me," he says.

"It has been featured on local TV channels and many news pages around the world, which is extremely flattering."

More of Cetin's work can be found on his Instagram, Facebook, and website.
Image credits: All photos by Aytek Cetin.

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Landscape Photographer Says People Don't Believe His Pictures Are Real

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An award-winning photographer who takes breathtaking photos that are so good some people doubt their authenticity opens up about his work.

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One tip from a National Geographic photographer totally changed the way I take pictures of nature on my phone

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“ I asked National Geographic photographer Kiliii Yüyan how to take better photos on my phone.

Yüyan gave me a tip on how to take photos of natural landscapes that stand out from the rest.

Find a foreground subject and frame your shot to show the scenery in the distance, he said.

"It'll give your images depth, intimacy, and make your photos unique," he said.

this made my image feel more dynamic.”

When I teach panoramic photography, I require students to seek a foreground focal point to anchor and add more impact. Having students shoot with and without a foreground focal point is an ideal way to help them notice how to frame their photos with their own unique perspective.  Betty Lark Ross

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I asked National Geographic photographer Kiliii Yüyan how to take better photos on my phone.

Yüyan gave me a tip on how to take photos of natural landscapes that stand out from the rest.

Find a foreground subject and frame your shot to show the scenery in the distance, he said.

Nowadays, people are "drowning in photographs," National Geographic photographer Kiliii Yüyan told Insider. But there are ways to make yours stand out - even if you're just shooting on your phone.

I love taking pictures so much that I went to school for it. And after nearly a decade of learning and shooting with intricate film and digital cameras, I work as a travel reporter. I take four trips a year where my work revolves around documenting the places I'm visiting while experiencing them. So I thought it was about time to learn about my smallest, most nimble camera - my phone.

Just like in school, I wanted to learn from a pro. So I turned to Yüyan, who tells visual stories about how different cultures relate to the environment, from the Amazon to the Arctic seas. He gave me four useful tips for taking better pictures with my phone, and one of them made me think about photographing nature in a whole new way.

Put something in the foreground

When it comes to making phone photos stand out, Yüyan said natural landscapes are especially challenging since they've been photographed so much. His best advice is to find a good foreground subject.

"Great backgrounds, such as mountains or waterfalls, are easy to find because we're always looking for them," Yüyan said. "On the other hand, a good foreground subject, such as blooming wildflowers or a craggy tree, can be much harder to find in the right location."

Yüyan recommended searching for a foreground subject and framing your shot so you can see the scenery in the distance.

"It'll give your images depth, intimacy, and make your photos unique," he said.

I had never thought about foreground in this way before, but his tip reminded me of when I photographed a beach across the street from mountains in Santa Cruz, California. I started by photographing the beach from the shore. I thought the mountains looked nice, but there was so much sand that I thought the bottom half of my image looked boring.

So I took my phone across some ocean rocks and into the tide pools. I thought the rocks and reflecting water spruced up my foreground by giving my image more layers. To me, this made my image feel more dynamic.

I also thought about a time I took some photos on my phone during a hike in Prescott, Arizona. When I first arrived at the Watson Lake parking lot for my hike, I thought it looked stunning with rock formations I hadn't seen before. So I was surprised when I found that photographing the scene from the lot didn't seem to do it justice.

But once I immersed myself in the landscape by hiking the trails, I found foreground subjects such as shrubs that better framed the lake scene. I thought the inclusion of these elements in the second image gave a better sense of what it was really like to be there because it had more layers showing what actually surrounds the lake.

Some images in my camera roll already seemed to support Yüyan's tip, but the photographer helped me identify what makes certain pictures stronger than others. I'll go into my next outdoor trip feeling more inspired to shoot from my phone and scout for interesting foregrounds.

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One tip from a National Geographic photographer totally changed the way I take pictures of nature on my phone

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I asked National Geographic photographer Kiliii Yüyan how to take better photos on my phone. Yüyan gave me a tip on how to take photos of natural landscapes that stand out from the rest. Find a foreground subject and frame your shot to show the scenery in the distance, he said.

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Learn how to better photograph nature with Adobe. Follow these tips to capture the nature pictures including plants, flowers and animals in a new light.

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photographer draws on photos - Yahoo Search Results

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photographer draws on photos - Yahoo Search Results

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This Artist Was Inspired To Mix Drawing With Photography And The Results... Are Incredible ⋆ THE ENDEARING DESIGNER

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This Artist Was Inspired To Mix Drawing With Photography And The Results... Are Incredible ⋆ THE ENDEARING DESIGNER

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You can stimulate the imagination with brilliants drawings. Or photography. But what happens when you combine the two?

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What's your relationship to fashion versus art?

I guess I've developed fine art approach to fashion. I studied art in high school and fashion photography at FIT (the Fashion Institute of Technology). A lot of my teachers at FIT wanted me to do very commercial, cheesy photography. But that wasn't edgy enough for me. Any time I tried to incorporate my illustrations to make my photographs more interesting, I got negative feedback. I just wanted to make what I wanted to make, and I've known what I wanted to make for forever. It was only after I graduated from FIT that I got more into fashion - by literally drawing clothing on to people.

Why do you draw on other people's photographs rather than your own?

I was doing my own photography for a while, and I've had years of training and classes. But I was just tired. It became very contrived to think of the photograph I wanted to take and at the same time come up with the illustrations. It wasn't a natural process for me anymore; I was thinking too much; it became overdone. When I graduated, I just started doodling in magazines for fun, and people really liked my work. I felt like I could control it more, and it was easier to throw myself on to a found image than my own photography.

Do you like the process of drawing more than the process of photographing?

It's just different. Drawing is like, 'me, myself, and I.' I'm usually alone and can listen to music and not have to talk to anybody. Whereas with photography, I'm usually around other people, there are tons of lights in my face, there's talking and craziness, so that's more of an adrenaline rush and it's just not as relaxing. But with drawing, I can work through my own thoughts and not have to worry what anyone else thinks.

What is your artistic process, starting with the found image?

My art is very immediate. I'm drawn to images where the models aren't necessarily wearing clothing or advertising a specific thing. If I'm looking through a magazine, something will pop out at me, and I'll rip it out, put it on my lap and start drawing. I always use pen - it's that immediate need to just draw and not spend too much time erasing or over-thinking. Then, I'll sit with the piece for a few hours, look at it for a while to make sure it's something I approve of, and then scan it and make the ink a little darker or lighter. I've worked on pieces from twenty minutes to entire days, depending on what mood I'm in, how focused I am, and how much detail goes into it. With the ones that are really dot-oriented, I have to go around each curve and make exaggerated definitions of the body. Those take a while because I'm looking at each shade of color, where the shadows are, and trying to dissect the human body, almost like pointillism.

How do you come up with the concepts for your illustrations?

Starting out, I often don't know exactly what the story is that I'm trying to tell; a lot of it is subconscious and it's only later, after I draw on it, that I can see where I was going with my thoughts. I think a lot of people try to think about their concepts first, but with my illustrations, it's very calming for me to just do it quickly.

Do you think certain qualities in the image shift after you draw on it?

I think my illustrations add an imaginary, fairy-tale-like story to the image. Black pen makes the image darker, so there's often a quality of veiled mystery. I think a lot of my art incorporates those concepts of mystery, darkness, and the unseen - the tension between what you can see and what you can't see.

What do you call yourself - a doodler, an illustrator, a mixed-media artist?

I like to just say I'm an artist, because I try to dabble in a bunch of different things. I also make sculptures, murals, and paintings. For my mixed-media illustrations, I call it 'reappropriation' - which is funny, because spell check doesn't even recognize it as a word yet!

How do you understand 'reappropriation'?

When I find an image, it's just fair trade; I'm creating something new. But I also see 'reappropriation' in symbols and religious figures, like the Virgin Mary. A single object contains so much meaning in it; it gets used in so many different contexts and grows with the world.

How do you use symbols in your work?

A lot of my work, specifically the pieces that aren't super pattern-based, use facial features. I love eyes, mouths, and ears; I love interesting noses and strange features in people. In my room, there are a ton of images of hands everywhere. My pattern drawings are more representative of symbols in nature, like waves and rain.

Does it take away the meaning of a symbol when you repeat it? Or, when you reprocess and remix an image, does it take power away from the original?

I think it familiarizes it. With my image of the mouth, I added more mouths to make it less sexual. The mouth can be such a luxurious, sensual part of the human body, but when you add more grotesque images on top of it - like when you draw a foot on a mouth - it asks the viewer to make different mental connections. It's still a pretty sexy mouth, but when you look deeper into it, it changes the way you think.

You've gotten a considerable amount of press in a short period of time! How did that start and how does it feel?

I don't know how it started actually. One day I was just making art and the next day I was getting emails from middle-schoolers saying they're writing papers about me. I only started putting my work out there about a year ago, and people really responded to it at a rapid pace.

What's the most interesting or inspiring feedback you've received?

I had a meeting with the modeling agency IMG. It was really incredible to see these amazing people take an interest in my work. I couldn't believe I was even in the same room with them! Just watching their faces really motivated me. They offered me guidance on how to move forward, and hopefully we'll work together one day.

What are you working on now?

I'm starting to do more collaborations with other photographers and magazines, and I've been getting assignments to do more editorials. Recently, U+MAG in Brazil sent me over some amazing black and white images to illustrate.

What does the future hold?

One day, I would like to have a fashion line. I'm currently designing some coats and shirts, and I have one bra idea that I'd really love to make. It'd be nice to have the funds to start designing, and to print my work on the fabric. The designs would flow in the same way that my illustrations do, perfectly around the curves of the body, embodying my drawings. Ideally though, I'd like to make a living from illustrating editorials and from collaborations, not a ton of money - but just enough.

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What's your relationship to fashion versus art? I guess I've developed fine art approach to fashion. I studied art in high school and fashion photography at FIT (the Fashion Institute of Technology). A lot of my teachers at FIT wanted me to do very commercial, cheesy photography.

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See Nicole Brock Croy
On Facebook for video

Grading Lumen prints tonight. Not our best, but worth showing if you haven’t done this project before. I did this with my Photo 3 students outside last week. The class focuses on all alternative processes. I made a quick video clip of tge set-up to eliminate some questions… but of course the student freaked out a little a tossed random plants down in the worst composition ever…😂😂😂. We had a good laugh afterwards, but at least you get the point. We use expired photo paper or photo paper that has accidentally been exposed. All types (Fiber and RC B&W darkroom photo paper, all surface finishes, all ages of paper work and give different colors). We work quickly in outdoor light. We usually use fresh plants, but not always… sometimes students bring in the most random things, I talk about “moisture” is good… bananas, earthworms, old spaghetti from the frig have all made appearances. We sometimes, but not always, add more moisture….. vinegar, tomato juice, lemon juice, windex, etc…. A student just brought Draino last week for some odd reason 🤦‍♂️. Let sit in the sun, you’ll see the paper start changing immediately. We worked on block day so we had 90 minutes and each  had 6 going at once. I leave mine at home outside for 3-5 hours. Then scan immediately, otherwise chemicals would make them turn black. Your digital file becomes your new original.

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Making a packing tape transfer negative to use for contact printing

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Okay, here's my video on doing a packing tape transfer. It rushes through inverting the photo in photoshop because I covered that in another lesson with my kids.
https://youtu.be/au61VbmvvOI?feature=shared

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Making a packing tape transfer negative to use for contact printing

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Little cyanotype show that my photo 3 students put together from work produced the first two weeks of school. All plant-based cyanotypes (they did other work too, but we decided as a group that this work looked best together for a display).

9- 8”x8” colored fabric cyanotypes in 6” embroidery hoops

1- 20” Round fabric cyanotype

1- 24” Round fabric cyanotype

1- 18” Oval fabric cyanotype

All of the other prints are the wet on wet cyanotype process on various sized papers.

Enjoy!

Jenn X Lynch Postma All real. We went on a nature walk on the first day of school and I gave each student a hard bound dictionary to press their plants in (who is using dictionaries anyway?). They were required to to take their books home a pack them full over the weekend and bring them back!

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When teach this and or phonograms, I challenged students to creates focal point and to make their negative space as interesting as their positive space.
Create a narrative and an all over pattern that breaks the edge on all four sides (open composition) and a Wow image- Shock, surprise and strive to make something unique and amazing- Experiment -Create!   Betty Lark Ross

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Knee deep in cyanotypes and wanted to share my set up. I was able to use the faculty lounge this week since it has a patio and sinks. Using a spray bottle and cotton balls to distribute the cyanotype is a game changer.

Go on Facebook High School Photography group to view her video

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The pinhole camera, also known as the camera obscura, is a simple device that projects an inverted image of a scene through a small hole onto a screen or a wall. The pinhole camera has a long history of being used for scientific, artistic, and recreational purposes.

The earliest known description of the pinhole camera effect is found in the writings of the Chinese philosopher Mozi (circa 500 BCE) and the Greek philosopher Aristotle (circa 300 BCE). They observed that light passing through a small opening between leaves or buildings would create an image of the sun on the ground1

The first person to study the pinhole camera scientifically was the Arab physicist Ibn al-Haytham (965-1039), also known as Alhazen. He experimented with different sizes and shapes of holes and screens, and explained the principles of linear perspective, reflection, and refraction. He also used the pinhole camera to safely observe solar eclipses1

The pinhole camera was also used as a drawing aid by artists and painters since the 16th century. By adding a lens to the hole, they could project a clearer and brighter image onto a paper or canvas, and trace the outlines and details. Some famous artists who used the pinhole camera technique include Leonardo da Vinci, Johannes Vermeer, and Canaletto12

The first known use of the pinhole camera for photography was by Scottish inventor David Brewster in 1856. He described the idea of “a camera without lenses, and with only a pin-hole” in his book The Stereoscope. He also suggested using photographic paper or film to capture the images permanently. Other early photographers who experimented with the pinhole camera were Sir William Crookes and William de Wiveleslie Abney12

The pinhole camera has some advantages and disadvantages over conventional cameras with lenses. The advantages include:

It is easy and cheap to make and use.

It has an infinite depth of field, meaning that everything in the scene is in focus.

It produces soft and dreamy images with low contrast and vignetting (darkening of the corners).

It can create artistic effects such as distortion, multiple exposure, and long exposure.

The disadvantages include:

It requires a very small hole to produce a sharp image, which limits the amount of light entering the camera.

It has a very narrow angle of view, meaning that it can only capture a small part of the scene.

It has a very low resolution, meaning that it cannot capture fine details or textures.

It requires a long exposure time, which can cause blurring due to camera shake or movement of the subject.

Some contemporary users of the pinhole camera are:

Hobbyists and enthusiasts who enjoy the simplicity and creativity of the pinhole camera.

Educators and students who use the pinhole camera to learn about optics, physics, and photography.

Artists and photographers who use the pinhole camera to create unique and expressive images.

via bing app

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What is a pinhole camera? | Virtual Cameras | Computer animation | Khan Academy

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What is a pinhole camera? | Virtual Cameras | Computer animation | Khan Academy

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Photography Award - Entries open for Pink Lady® Food Photographer of the Year 2024

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Food photography college and professional

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Food photography college and professional

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Photography Award - Entries open for Pink Lady® Food Photographer of the Year 2024

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Le concours Pink Lady® Food Photographer of the Year, la plus grande célébration mondiale de la photographie et du film culinaires, est ouvert aux inscriptions pour son édition 2024.Pink Lady® Food Photographer of the Year, the world’s leading celebration of food photography and film, is open for en…

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The Future of Creativity | What do Stephen King and Sylvia Plath have in common? They won a Scholastic Award—and your teen can too! | By Scholastic Art & Writing Awards | Facebook

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I got these lockers off Amazon! They come with keys that I then put in a key lockbox. All cameras have a tag with their name and they go in their designated locker  (the keys have tags that are also named!)🙂 I am trying to come up with a better checkout system, but this has been the best security system for the cameras!

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Happy Holidays!!

I know that it’s rude to brag, but I totally got what I wanted for Christmas this year. (It totally wasn’t handed to me. I spend the last 6 years raising money and designing these, and the last 4 months building them-building them with help.)

Take a gander at my equipment room!!  I have 8 Kits, all color coded/numbered. Every table uses the kit they’re assigned to so that I know who to yell at when things don’t get returned, broke, etc. 🙂. Designed to hold most everything they should need.
Each kit/level has:
Floor:  3 sandbags
Bottom Shelf:
Rolling pelican case with
DSLR
Two battery powered LED lights
One quick-up lightweight tripod
Lens cleaning kit
Large tripod with fluid head
Microphone stand
Boom pole
Three light stands
4’ Cord cover
Flexible 5-in-1 Reflector
Bottom small shelf:  Audio
Zoom H4N with bag, headphones, cables
Boom mic box with shock mount and deadcat
Lavaliere set
Middle small shelf:  Lighting
Two largeR LED lights
Upper small shelf:
Small mobile monitor in a bag with cables and articulating arm
Slate and Eraser/markers
Popcorn bucket for various items, such as an extra lens cleaning kit and a c-stand clamp
Top:
Storage for the small tripods with cell-phone adapters.

The rest of the room is for the stuff that they can check out/use (but don’t have enough for each kit. Things like slider, gimbles, etc)

I am so happy to have this, finally!  One quick scan and I should be able to see what big parts are missing.

But that’s only half of my surprise. I’ll show you my battery shelf in the next post.

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Street Artist JR Turns Louvre Pyramid into Incredible Optical Illusion with 2,000 Sheets of Paper

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French street artist JR is helping the Louvre celebrate the 30th anniversary of its famed glass pyramid by surrounding it with a dramatic optical illusion. Along with 400 volunteers, JR placed 2,000 sheets of paper around the Louvre Pyramid to create the appearance that it's rising from a rock quarry.

The installation is a celebration of the Louvre Pyramid's 30th anniversary. An iconic piece of modern architecture, it has become an important part of the Louvre's history since architect I.M. Pei completed the structure in 1989. Interestingly, this isn't the first time that the pyramid has found its way into JR's work. In 2016, he covered the Louvre pyramid with his large-scale photo prints, causing it to blend in with the facade of the museum.

After the artist sent out a photo of the installation the Friday it was complete, visitors swarmed the site. In no time, the fragile paper laid out in the 183,000-square-foot (17,000-square-meter) plaza started to disintegrate. While some visitors were disillusioned by how quickly it disappeared, coming from a field of ephemeral art, the situation didn't phase JR. He took a much more philosophical view of the artwork's destruction.

"The images, like life, are ephemeral. Once pasted, the art piece lives on its own," he wrote on Twitter. "The sun dries the light glue and with every step, people tear pieces of the fragile paper. The process is all about [the] participation of volunteers, visitors, and souvenir catchers."

The piece, which is "about presence and absence, about reality and memories, about impermanence," also became an unexpected tribute. Acclaimed Belgian-French filmmaker and artist Agnès Varda passed away at age 90 on March 29, while JR and his team were in the middle of the installation. Many audiences were refamiliarized with Varda's work when she co-directed the 2017 film Faces, Places with JR. The movie also scored her an Oscar nomination, making her the oldest person to be nominated for a competitive Oscar.

JR and Varda remained close even after their collaboration, and she was surely on his mind during his takeover of the Louvre. In fact, upon completion, he wrote a special message just for her. "I finished this one for you Agnès Varda, you loved people, pasting and illusion ... I am sure you can see it. I did something that can be seen from the sky. Promised, I didn't know that it was for you."

Street artist JR created a spectacular illusion to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Louvre Pyramid.

A group of 400 volunteers helped him paste 2,000 strips of paper to create the illusion of the Pyramid rising from a quarry.

The ephemeral piece of art, which was quickly destroyed by visitors who flocked to see it, took on new meaning after an unexpected event.

During the installation, JR's friend and collaboration, acclaimed filmmaker and artist Agnès Varda passed away.
JR: Website | Instagram | Facebook
Related Articles:
Street Artist JR Ends Mexico Border Installation with Picnic on Both Sides Street Artist JR Takes Over the Paris Metro With His Giant Posters Street Artist JR Reminds Us What Life Was Like on Ellis Island JR's New Street Art of a Gigantic Man Walking in New York

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Street Artist JR Turns Louvre Pyramid into Incredible Optical Illusion with 2,000 Sheets of Paper

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French street artist JR is helping the Louvre celebrate the 30th anniversary of its famed glass pyramid by surrounding it with a dramatic optical illusion. Along with 400 volunteers, JR placed 2,000 sheets of paper around the Louvre Pyramid to create the appearance that it's rising from a rock quarry.

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https://www.colesclassroom.com/the-ultimate-list-of-photography-terms/ Site where I got the definitions that I'll provide the students with this list of phrases:  Photography
Aperture
Composition
Filling the Frame
Framing
Leading Lines
Negative Space
Rule of Thirds
Symmetry
Forced Perspective
Depth of Field
Exposure
Exposure Value
F-Stop
ISO
Shutter
Shutter Speed
Stop
Crop-sensor
Digital Photography
DSLR
Dynamic Range
Frames-Per-Second
Full-frame
Hot Shoe
Light Meter
Megapixel
Resolution
Sensor
Focal Length

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Mixbook will populate the photos you choose into a photo book for you. Mixbook.com

Shutterfly.com

photo magazine

Each student does a research project/ theme on a different photography topics. Than each student designs a magazine of their best photography.

They should choose a horizontal softbound book. No less than 12 and no more than 20 pages.

I recommend Shutterfly

-Travel Gallery Photo Book 8x 11 S oft Cover

20 pages

or similar book from

Mpix

blurb

I do not require them to  pay and print it. But many of them do. For kids going on college visits, I recommend they consider bringing this booklet portfolio with and sharing it. It helps them stand out as the student who also loves photography. And if they have a strong concentration ( Cover and first pages feature their concentration) it often can wow viewers in a memorable way. And students who showcase great sports photography -And what college doesn’t need and want that! I have had several students become lead sports photographers at University of Michigan.

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Student Publications - Latin School of Chicago

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Student Publication  VIDI Magazine -Betty Lark Ross

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Student Publication  VIDI Magazine -Betty Lark Ross

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I advised a Photography Club and help students produced 20 editions of VIDI. We printed copies to distribute.

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The Forum
Latin's student-run newspaper, The Forum, is accessible online.

Discourses
Discourses, Latin's first political journal was founded with the goal of providing an outlet for students to respectfully share their opinions regarding current political and social issues. It aims to educate the community on issues affecting both our school and our country while expressing the diversity of opinions present at Latin. Log in to RomanNet to read the latest edition.

VIDI
VIDI, the Latin word for "I saw," was started in 2001 to showcase the photography program at Latin.

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Student Publications - Latin School of Chicago

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The Forum Latin's student-run newspaper, The Forum, is accessible online. Discourses Discourses, Latin's first political journal was founded with the goal of providing an outlet for students to respectfully share their opinions regarding current political and social issues. It aims to educate the community on issues affecting both our school and our country while expressing the diversity of opinions present at Latin.

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Think of how every picture tells a story.

Enable gridlines from the viewfinder. Once there, try to dedicate your subject to one-third of the frame and leave the rest for the surroundings to set the scene for a narrative.

See if the environment around you follows any geometry. Look for lines and diagonal arrangements, and accordingly adjust the frame with your subject as the centerpiece.

If your frame has natural openings, like windows, gates, doors, etc., try to find any symmetry or lines and adjust the frame accordingly.

A vantage point that can show the contrasting colors and reality of a frame is a recipe for a great shot.

When taking a close-up shot — say, a person or animal — go for a slightly off-center approach where one eye aligns with the vertical center of the frame. This approach gives the impression that the eye in focus is following the lens.

Find an object that disrupts a pattern or breaks the symmetry. Make it the focal point and let the element of anarchy become the story-teller.

Don’t be afraid of playing with advanced tools. A slight change in exposure value and depth adjustment can do wonders.

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This page will show you about photographyskills #photographys #photographyskills #beautifullphotos #beautifullvideos #USA #facebookreelscontes #reelplays #reels | Prosper With Nature | Prosper With Nature · Original audio

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This page will show you about photographyskills #photographys #photographyskills #beautifullphotos #beautifullvideos #USA #facebookreelscontes #reelplays #reels | Prosper With Nature | Prosper With Nature · Original audio

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17K views, 256 likes, 9 comments, 45 shares, Facebook Reels from Prosper With Nature: This page will show you about photographyskills #photographys #photographyskills #beautifullphotos...

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Like most people, photographers are rarely caught without their smartphones. There are so many great apps available on iOS and Android devices that a photographer's phone can become an integral part of their kit.

Whether taking photos with a smartphone, editing images on the go, or planning a photo for capture with a dedicated camera system, this guide outlines essential apps that every photographer should consider adding to their phone.

Table of Contents

The Best Apps for Planning and Capturing Photos

PhotoPills (Android and iOS)

PhotoPills is a fantastic app for photographers who want to leave nothing to chance. It helps photographers plan their images and dial in their settings with sophisticated maps, diagrams, and tools.

For example, photographers can use PhotoPills to pinpoint the angle and direction of sunrise, sunset, moonrise, the Milky Way, and much more. Better yet, the app lets the user change the date, time, and location, so it is possible to scout out shots anywhere in the world.

PetaPixel's guide to using PhotoPills will help photographers get the most from the app, and trust us, PhotoPills has a ton to offer.
Available on Android and iOS for $10.99. Includes in-app purchases.
The Photographer's Ephemeris (iOS)

In a similar spirit, the Photographer's Ephemeris is a landscape photographer's best friend. Available on iOS and desktop, this app offers augmented reality on iPhone and iPad, offering a preview of the sky at a selected time using a mobile device's camera. It also offers 3D diagrams and maps, offering a sophisticated preview of how light and shadow will fall over a landscape at any time.
Available on iOS for $9.99. Includes in-app purchases.
Exposure Calculator (Android)

One of the most challenging parts of using strong neutral density (ND) filters is dialing in the perfect exposure. Even though modern cameras have excellent metering systems, they can only sometimes accurately meter exposure through very dark filters.

That is where the Exposure Calculator on Android comes in. The free app allows users to set aperture, shutter speed, and ISO and add up to three ND filters of up to 30 stops to each exposure calculation.
Available on Android for free.
Long Exposure Calculator (iOS)

Long Exposure Calculator is a similar app for iOS devices. The app, which works on iPhone, iPad, and even iPod Touch, allows users to set ND filter strength and exposure settings to receive a shutter speed recommendation. The app supports up to 24 stops of ND filters and includes a built-in countdown timer.
Available on iOS for free.
MyLightMeter (Android and iOS)

Analog and digital photographers alike sometimes need a bit of help metering light. MyLightMeter Pro for Android and iOS offers stylized user interface options, incident and reflected light metering modes, the ability to save exposure data, saved lens presets, hyperfocal distance calculation, and more.

User reviews praise the app for its accuracy and utility, especially when shooting film without a dedicated light meter accessory. The app relies upon the user's smartphone camera system to meter a scene, and by all accounts, the app is very good.
Available on iOS for $3.99. On Android, the app is known as just LightMeter and is $1.99.
The Best Weather and Light Apps

Although undoubtedly related to "planning" a photography adventure, no photographer's mobile toolkit is complete without good weather apps and apps for predicting optimal photography conditions.

Alongside built-in weather apps on iOS and Android, Carrot Weather is a fun app for Android and iOS. It is free, although it offers a premium subscription for $20 per year.

Outdoor enthusiasts may prefer the highly detailed data delivered by WeatherBug. Available on Android and iOS for free with premium subscription options, WeatherBug shows how favorable weather is for outdoor activities, including information about where the latest and nearest lightning strikes were to help outdoor enthusiasts stay safe.

Skylight Forecast (iOS)

Just because the weather is suitable for being outside does not mean it is good for taking photos, either. That is where Skylight for iOS helps. The app uses artificial intelligence to predict evening light and show photographers a daily forecast for the quality of different times of day for taking photos.

For example, golden hour is a fantastic time to take photos, but not every day's golden hour is exciting. Skylight helps photographers know beforehand if it is worth setting up a quick shoot or grabbing their gear and heading out the door for sunset.

Available on iOS for $1.99 per month or $9.99 per year.

The Best Apps for Taking Photos With Your Phone

While the apps so far have focused on helping photographers capture better shots with their dedicated camera equipment, these apps are designed to enable shutterbugs to create better photos using the cameras on their mobile devices.

Phone cameras have come a long way in recent years, with sensors getting bigger and megapixel counts increasing. Talented photographers create stunning art using their smartphones.

However, while native camera apps on iOS and Android are good enough for many, some enthusiasts yearn for more control over their smartphone cameras.

Photon (iOS)

Developed by the makers of Camera+, Photon is focused on offering iOS users professional-style image capture tools and features.

Photon offers an auto mode, but its strength is in the app's manual control over focus, shutter speed, ISO, and white balance. The app also offers control over format and resolution and the ability to shoot in RAW or Apple ProRAW formats, plus HEIF and JPEG.

The app also includes focus peaking, a histogram, grid overlay options, flash control, and more.
Available on iOS for $3.99 per month or $19.99 per year.
ProCam X (Android)

ProCam X for Android is similar to Photon in functionality, offering users control over camera settings like exposure, focus, white balance, and ISO.

Available on Android for $4.99.

Halide Mark II (iOS)

Halide Mark II offers a comprehensive assortment of controls and features. It is designed with professional photographers in mind, and its rich controls support this notion.

Despite its wide range of features and tools, the app has a relatively simple, clean user interface that heavily relies upon swiping gestures. Halide Mark II also supports the Apple ProRAW image format, delivering outstanding image quality on top of its excellent camera controls.

It is worth remembering that Halide Mark II exclusively captures photos on an iPhone and does not include photo editing tools.

Available on iOS for $9.99 per year or a one-time purchase of $29.99.

Spectre (iOS)

Halide also makes an AI-powered app just for capturing long-exposure images. Known as Spectre, the app uses AI and Apple's Neural Engine Processor to deliver stabilized handheld long-exposure photos.

While available for free, a paid "Pro" version adds additional long exposure modes.

Available on iOS for free. Includes in-app purchases.

Filmic Pro (Android and iOS)

Filmic Pro version 7 delivers a redesigned camera interface and brand new features for Filmic's acclaimed mobile cinema app.

Designed to offer mobile users a high-end video interface, Filmic Pro offers extensive controls over camera settings, custom function buttons, and a robust interface. For any users aiming to improve their mobile video, Filmic Pro is a must-have application.
Available on Android and iOS for $2.99 per week or $50 per year.
First Light (Android and iOS)

Filmic also has a great mobile app designed for photographers called Firstlight. Firstlight includes advanced image processing, excellent visualizations, and sophisticated manual controls.

The mobile photography also includes excellent film simulations and Apple ProRAW support. Firstlight offers extensive controls over crucial camera settings like shutter speed, ISO, and focus. The app also includes focus peaking, zebras, histograms, and more.

PetaPixel has previously written that Firstlight " is capable of the absolute best image quality you can get on a smartphone." For photographers looking to take great photos on their phones, what more could they ask for?
Available on Android and iOS for $7.99.
The Best Apps for Photo Editing

Whether taking photos on a smartphone or just editing images captured with a dedicated camera system, there are many ways to edit photos on smartphones.

From mobile versions of desktop apps like Lightroom and Capture One to mobile-only apps like VSCO and Pop!, mobile apps make editing and sharing your best photos easy.

Adobe Lightroom Mobile (Android and iOS)

Lightroom for Mobile brings many of Lightroom's excellent photo editing tools from desktop to the palm of your hand. The app also recently added "instant access" to photo libraries, allowing users to skip the typical import process.

Lightroom for Mobile includes powerful tools, including masking and numerous other AI-powered photo editing features.

Few apps offer as many editing tools as Adobe Lightroom for Mobile.

Available on Android and iOS for free. Includes in-app purchases.

Capture One (iOS)

After a lengthy wait, Capture One is finally available on iPhone. However, it is less powerful on iPhone than on iPad.

Importantly, even though perhaps not a complete replacement to Capture One on desktop, Capture One on iPhone delivers much of Capture One's fantastic color editing tools.

Available on iOS for $4.99 per month or less depending on a user's additional Capture One subscriptions.

VSCO (Android and iOS)

Last year, after more than a decade of making a mark in the mobile photography space, VSCO rebranded and pledged to return to its roots. The app still offers extensive photo editing tools and more than 200 presets, plus a built-in camera app, but it is now also a platform where creators can gather and share their work.

Alongside photo editing tools and film emulations, VSCO offers video editing tools with presets, color controls, and a GIF creator.
Available on Android and iOS for free. Includes in-app purchases.
Pop! (iOS)

Packed to the gills with excellent film emulations, Pop! for iOS is a great way to give photos and videos an analog look and feel.

Pop's editing interface is straightforward, although some features are locked behind a paywall. The app makes it easy to dial in the perfect film photography-inspired look and includes simple but powerful controls and sliders.
Available on iOS for free. Includes in-app purchases in the form of a one-time purchase or subscription.
Photomator (iOS)

Photomator is a powerful and easy-to-use app for iPhone, iPad, and even macOS. With support for more than 650 RAW image formats, AI-powered image editing tools, and powerful corrections, Photomator is an exceptionally robust mobile photo editing app.

In many ways, Photomator mimics the capabilities of a desktop photo editing app, albeit with a simpler, mobile-friendly user interface. The app includes non-destructive editing, impressive repair tools, and even a new Smart Deband tool.

Available on iOS for free. Includes in-app purchases

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From photo planning to image capture to creative editing, these mobile apps are essential for every photographer.

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Spectre Long-Exposure iPhone Camera App Now Free, Ushering in Spectre Pro

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Spectre, the long-exposure AI-powered iPhone camera app made by the developers of the popular Halide photography app, is now free.

For those unfamiliar with Spectre, the app uses a computational shutter to take hundreds of photos over the course of a few seconds to create an up to 3-second long exposure.

Because it's taking hundreds of images instead of one continuous shot, users can hold their phone while taking long exposure images with Spectre, no tripod necessary.

Previously $1.99, the app's switch to freeware marks the introduction of a new paid-for Pro version, which includes additional 15- and 30-second exposure modes, plus a new Pro icon.

Spectre Pro is a free upgrade to existing users, while new users can unlock the Pro version for a $4.99 one-time purchase. The app works on the iPhone 6S and newer and requires iOS 15 and later, and is available to download from the App Store.

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Spectre Long-Exposure iPhone Camera App Now Free, Ushering in Spectre Pro

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Spectre, the long-exposure AI-powered iPhone camera app made by the developers of the popular Halide photography app, is now free. For those...

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A National Geographic photographer gave me one tip for taking pictures on my phone and it immediately made my photos stand out

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To take better photos on my phone, I asked National Geographic photographer Kiliii Yüyan for tips.

Since they're thin and lightweight, phones can capture angles most people can't see, he said.

Just like taking a selfie, move your phone around to find the best way to angle your shot, he added.

When I graduated college with a photography degree, I would have told you that there's nothing your iPhone camera can do that a professional camera couldn't do better.

I would have been wrong.

It's been nearly a decade since I started photo school. Now that I work as a travel reporter, documenting places while experiencing them, I thought it was time to learn about my smallest camera - my phone.

I wanted to learn from a pro - so I turned to National Geographic photographer Kiliii Yüyan, who has documented life around the world from the Amazon to the Arctic. He gave me four tips, including taking your time, shooting a lot, and getting closer. I thought most of these tips were useful for any camera, but one made me realize that there are some shots only a phone can capture.

Treat all photos like selfies

Yüyan said to take advantage of how small and lightweight phones are by shooting from angles we don't often see while observing the world.

"It becomes a habit to use the phone at eye level, but if you watch someone who is good at selfies, they move the phone around to find better angles," Yüyan told Insider. "The same applies to making any other photo."

For example, he said photographing a child from above can look boring, but angling a phone from beneath the child's eye level can show more of their personality and how they see the world.

"We rarely get down below a child's height to look up at the world, and that perspective can be magical," the photographer said.

This made me realize that my favorite photos of my dog, Miley, were the ones I'd taken from her level. When I take pictures of her from above, I find that I can't get a sense of her personality.

But while aiming up at Miley's face, I see how she uses her environment to feel bigger, like perching on a rock on the edge of a creek. All of these photos came from my phone, and my other cameras aren't small enough to get so low without hitting the ground.

After learning the tip, I tried it out while taking more pictures on my phone.

Here's another example of how photographing Miley from her level reveals her personality. In the photos below, I wanted to show her more relaxed side. While the first picture gives the viewer a better idea of her position, the second image using Yüyan's tip shows her calm, lazy expression. If I know Miley, this is her "pet my belly" face. I also think her arms curled from the second image's angle show how off-guard she is.

After trying out the tip with success, I felt inspired to scan my camera roll for angles that bore me and considered what could make them more interesting.

For example, I play drums, and when I'm on stage I photograph the kit from eye level. So at a recent gig, I put my phone on the ground instead of holding it in my hand. This image shows how the kit looks from an angle that people can't see, and I think layering the drums on top of each other shows how cramped the space feels.

Yüyan's tip also reminded me of another subject I've shot on my phone - the iconic Rockefeller Center Christmas tree in New York City.

The first time I photographed the famous tree, I shot from eye level. When I looked at my photo, I thought it looked like any other picture of the famous holiday scene.

But when I returned to try a lower angle, I thought it made a more unique image. Since my phone is small and light, it was easy to stick it beneath some foliage and point it up toward the tree. In the new picture, I see layers of smaller plants in front of the tree and the tops of the buildings surrounding it, giving me a better idea of its scale, which was previously missing.

In practice, I've found that the best thing about Yüyan's angles tip is that it works with any subject, from animals to landmarks to instruments. And I can't wait to see what else I can come up with.

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A National Geographic photographer gave me one tip for taking pictures on my phone and it immediately made my photos stand out

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A National Geographic photographer told Insider's reporter to consider how shooting with a phone can open you up to new angles people don't often see.

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Amber Fox and  Caroline Epps

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Be sure to change your camera settings from HEIC 

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Be sure to change your camera settings from HEIC 

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Self multiplicity photography  , snapseed easy editing .

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Self multiplicity photography  , snapseed easy editing .

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Very easy in the Snapseed app using the Double exposure feature.

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Secret iPhone Camera Feature For Perfectly Sharp Photos

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Secret iPhone Camera Feature For Perfectly Sharp Photos

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5 Popular Interior Design Styles EXPLAINED | Modern, Wabi Sabi, Maximal, Modern Organic & More!youtube.com

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How to Build a DIY 'Pixelstick' for About $22

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https://petapixel.com/diy-pixelstick/

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You might have heard of the Pixelstick. "Nothing compares" is one of their tag lines. And this is true... at least price-wise. I have always wanted one to at least try out some light painting with it, but the Pixelstick retails for €400 here in Germany and $349 in the United States.

The Pixelstick is a 188cm RGB light strip on a stick that plays bitmap files. It weighs 1.6kg, has a nice display to select files, has a remote release, and runs on eight AA batteries. Oh, and it comes in a nice bag.

Still, $349 is a bit steep for a light-painting tool.

In this article, I will share how you can build a do-it-yourself Pixelstick for about $22. Note that you will need a solid grasp of electronics and programming for this tutorial.

Table of Contents

The Desired Features

I started out by simply deciding to build my own Pixelstick. As I had never handled the real thing, I didn't know the exact laundry list of features it has, but I do know the exact features I would want in a device like this:

Luckily, Michael Ross already built something like this called the Digital Light Wand, and it has some of the features that I want. Software-wise it runs an Arduino sketch. Hardware-wise I think it is a bit dated and way too big. I'm not a fan of the large Arduino MEGA and the LCD Display shield as it makes the device unnecessarily large, so I decided to swap some parts.

The List of Ingredients

I chose an Arduino MEGA 2560 Pro, a small OLED Display, a Micro-SD reader, and a digital joystick since the display does not come with buttons.

I sourced everything from AliExpress. Here are all the parts that I have used:

144 pixels/leds/m WS2812 Smart RGB Led Light Strip Black/ PCB

MEGA 2560 PRO Embed CH340G/ATMEGA2560-16AU Chip

4pin 0.96″ White/Blue/Yellow blue 0.96 inch OLED 128X64

Five Direction Navigation Button Module for MCU

Micro SD card mini TF card reader module SPI interfaces

MICRO USB To DIP Adapter 5pin Female Connector B Type

Total cost: €20.27 (almost 20x less then the Pixelstick), or about $22 at the time of my build.
You also need a Micro USB cable, some wire, a soldering iron, solder, electrical tape, and something on which to mount the LED strip. I chose a piece of wood. For the case, I used an old Bluetooth receiver that I have no use of anymore. To program your Arduino you need the Arduino IDE.

The Pinout on the Chip

Pinout on the Mega PRO is different, at least on the version that I bought. The LED strip only needs one connection besides power, as it gets controlled through the PWM chip that lives on the Arduino. On mine. pin 6 is a PWM pin. I power the LED strip directly from the Powerbank which is attached via Micro-USB.

Please make sure to connect the GND of the LED strip to the GND of the Arduino or your strip will display false LEDs because of signal noise.

Pins for the OLED display are easy to find. Besides GND and VCC, it needs SDA and SCL, pins 20 and 21, respectively.

The SD card reader needs some more ports, but all are grouped together. 50, 51, 52, 53

The buttons are wired to digital pins, using the internal pull-up resistor (activated in the Arduino sketch) I use pins 22, 23, 24, 25, 26

For reference, here is the complete circuit for the components I used.

Soldering and building the case only took a few hours, a Saturday well spent.

The Software Running the Show

I took the sketch from Michael and removed the libraries for the LCD Shield, which also handles button presses, rewrote the function that watches for keys, and rewrote the parts that would display text on the display. I also implemented EEPROM saving of the brightness setting, all the other values are fine from the start and seldom need tweaking.

Thanks to the great Arduino community, figuring out how to address the different modules was easy enough for me, even not being a very seasoned programmer. There is for sure room for improvement, but at the moment it does what I need and I can always come back to the code in case I need a new feature or find a bug.

Lighty: The Finished DIY Light Stick

Here are some more pictures of "Lighty" and, of course, some results. Oh, and by the way, Lighty weighs only 8.47oz/240g (without battery).

I am really happy with how this turned out. The only thing missing is a diffusion panel in front of the LEDs, but even the "8-bit" look is fine with me for now... especially at this price tag.
About the author: Dirk Essl is an IT Solution Architect working for a German television network. He's not a programmer, but he likes writing software if something that he needs is not available. He also runs the caffenol blog and the largest caffenol community about caffenol film development on the Web. You can see more of his work on his website, or by following him on Facebook and YouTube. This article was also published here.

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How to Build a DIY 'Pixelstick' for About $22

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A tutorial on how you can create a do-it-yourself version of the $349 Pixelstick with just $22 in parts and some electronics know-how.

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I set it up for the kids. Did ISO 200. Fstop of 8. And shutter speed of 8 seconds. Then they could deviate from there. Even had cameras already on tripods for them. We just finished taking photos in our auditorium for 2 days.  It was a blast!

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Learn How to Light Paint with ANY Camera in 4 Minutes!

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Learn How to Light Paint with ANY Camera in 4 Minutes!

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8 IMPORTANT Composition Tips for Better Photos

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8 IMPORTANT Composition Tips for Better Photos

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Film photography The Third Shoot Downtown Chicago 

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Film photography The Third Shoot Downtown Chicago 

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Teacher: Betty Lark Ross
The Third Shoot –two rolls       name_____________________

This assignment is mostly about photographing the urban landscape: Chicago or another city.

Think about Alfred Stieglitz’s genre scenes. Think about Vivian Maier exploring words, people, and discovering connections in what she experiences. Document what you find as you take a photographic journey through an urban landscape. Go with a friend, organize a group meet up, go with a parent, or explore alone. You have two weeks and two weeks to plan your experience.

A Genre scene

An Urban Environmental Portrait

An interesting building- Architecture

A HARSH REALITY OF THE URBAN SCENE- think…Paul Strand

A CITYSCAPE

Reflections- mirror, or water, or metallic surface, glass- Take a reflective self-portrait- think Vivian Maier.

LOOKING UP at ARCHITECTURE

IF YOU CAN PHOTOGRAPH THE STATE OF ILLINOIS BUILDING

An architectural detail

STRUCTURE - something that supports- has repetition

Staircase * Bonus ( The Rookery Building Staircase -209 S. LaSalle)

THE THIRD EFFECT – Kezyes  (look at photography by  Algimantas Kezys’ )

LOOKING THROUGH SCULPTURE

TOO MUCH IS JUST ENOUGH - fill your frame - open composition

A teen in an urban scene

BACKLIGHTING something in SILHOUETTE - search for shapes

FLORA -something growing in nature

SOMETHING Colorful- FOR YOUR HAND-COLORED PRINT

SHADOWS- A man-made shadow and a natural shadow

A person relating to architecture and or sculpture

Chicagoans

a favorite place in Chicago

Choice city shots- Many Choice city shots

REMEMBER TO RESHOOT ANY ASSIGNMENTS FROM THE SECOND SHOOT- to make your portfolio stunning.

Still life self-portrait, self-portrait, magazine emulation, bird's eye view or worm's eye view, etc…

Fill up both rolls of film. Fall in love with the challenge of photographing. Making memories of these moments in time and place.

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Good gifts for photographers-Tripods, crystal balls, Flash, gift certificate to print a magazine or book of their photos, vintage camera, cool picture frame, certificate to poster print one of their photos, a book on a photographer or style of photography that interests them. filters for their lens, sd cards, cool guitar   style camera strap, fake press pass, a rubber camera that sprays water! A cool camera backpack, Gorilla tripod, black or white backgroup fabric, subscription to a photo magazine.

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The World's First Camera Obscura That You Can Take Selfies With

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A photography teacher has created the world's first camera obscura that people can take selfies with by using their smartphone.

David White of Falmouth University, U.K., made the 6×6 foot camera obscura out of a gazebo frame with a 790mm f/5.4 lens peering out into the world.

The image the lens captures is then projected onto a screen inside the camera obscura; the screen can be moved backward and forward until the image is in focus.

"It's like being inside a camera, you can have a cup of tea in there if you want," White, a senior lecturer on press and editorial photography and a professional photographer, tells PetaPixel.

Camera Obscura Selfie

But what makes this camera obscura unique is the ability to take selfies with it. White ingeniously placed a Canon camera inside the tent which photographs the screen and can be controlled remotely via an app on his iPad or smartphone.

"The person just sits in front of the obscura looking at their phone controlling the camera, they see themselves because the camera inside the camera is looking at the screen and they take a selfie," he explains.

White says that it is the first-ever camera obscura that can take selfies and he built it for his students as a learning and teaching tool.

"[The reaction] is one of disbelief, and wonder, and amazement when they go inside because there are not many cameras you can go inside of," he says.

"And then it elevates once they take a selfie and then it elevates again because once I explain they are the author of the selfie therefore they own the copyright to the selfie and they can distribute it, share it, sell it, do whatever they like with it."

Building the Camera Obscura

White has actually built two of these selfie camera obscuras; the second one he adorned with a beautiful fabric that has camera parts printed on it.

"It looks like a huge camera now...You enter through a light meter," he adds.

The most expensive part was the focusing screen, but White found a second-hand one on eBay and then there's the matter of the lens.

"The lens was problematic because it needed to cover a larger area - like six-foot square - and there's not really a need for a lens that covers that kind of area because there's no film that size or digital sensor that size," he explains.

But he found an ultra-large format photography specialist called Reinhold Schable in the United States and asked if he could make him a lens.

"He made me a single-element Woolaston meniscus lens which is one of the earliest forms of optics known to man, he hand-grounded it for me and made it so it covered the area that I needed," says White.

"He charged me $400 which is quite frankly the biggest bargain of my life."

Plans and Usage

The selfie camera obscura has been a huge hit - and not just with White's students; noted documentary photographer Martin Parr stopped by to take a novel self-portrait.

The camera obscura is compact and lightweight which means it's easily transported, but that means it could blow away in the wind.

"Because it's lightweight it doesn't work so well outdoors unless it's a perfectly still day," says White.

The photographer adds that if he were to build a new one it would be inflatable so it might work better on the often windy British Isles.

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The World's First Camera Obscura That You Can Take Selfies With

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A photography teacher has created the world's first camera obscura that people can take selfies with by using their smartphone.

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We had success with Jacquard, here’s what we did:

- Watercolor paper
- Mixed & painted 2 coats in same day
- left to dry in dark space overnight (closet with no outdoor access/ lighting)
- the day we did ours we had a 5-7 min exposure
- rinsed directly after with cool water until water ran clear.

I’m sure we got lucky and it’s picky though!

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I have a business photo class and first semester they learn all about exposure by doing a ton of fun projects around aperture and shutter speed while incorporating the elements of art. Second semester they focus on business, and the kids all create a photo business focused on portraits and we go heavy into portraiture, with both natural light and a lot of studio stuff. They create a website, and we go over pricing, contracts, social media and all the things for a successful biz. Then they work in small groups to create another business, and they learn how to shoot products, and create a lot of social media content for the products they are selling.

By the end of the year, all my classes are pros in Lightroom, proficient in Photoshop and confident in Canva, and have an online portfolio of all their work from the whole year made on Canva portfolio.

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The Photograph Use the black backdrop in the classroom Take a close up photograph of a person from the sholders up They should be ...

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I took a picture of the back ground. Brought in a ladder, stood on the ladder and took the image. Then photoshopped the ladder out.

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Street Photo Ideas 💡📸 Save and try it😍 by @nordic_scott . . ©®™ Copyright owned by respective owners 🔄 (pls contact for credit issues) . . #reels #reelsinstagram #behindthescenes #photoideas #phototricks #phototips #instagram #streetphotography #portraitphotography #mobilephotography | vibes photography™ | 3ᴍ | Rema · Calm Down

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Street Photo Ideas 💡📸 Save and try it😍 by @nordic_scott . . ©®™ Copyright owned by respective owners 🔄 (pls contact for credit issues) . . #reels #reelsinstagram #behindthescenes #photoideas #phototricks #phototips #instagram #streetphotography #portraitphotography #mobilephotography | vibes photography™ | 3ᴍ | Rema · Calm Down

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Street Photo Ideas 💡📸 Save and try it😍 by @nordic_scott . . ©®™ Copyright owned by respective owners 🔄 (pls contact for credit issues) . . #reels #reelsinstagram #behindthescenes #photoideas...

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Mobile editing tutorial for IG worthy pictures! Use these settings to make your colours pop! #photography #mobilephot | Samrith HD | Samrith HD · Original audio

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Mobile editing tutorial for IG worthy pictures! Use these settings to make your colours pop! #photography #mobilephot | Samrith HD | Samrith HD · Original audio

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Mobile editing tutorial for IG worthy pictures! Use these settings to make your colours pop! #photography #mobilephot. Samrith HD · Original audio

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National Geographic Explorer and renowned photographer Anand Varma is creating WonderLab, a one of a kind storytelling studio based in Berkeley, California.

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Use the Adobe Express app on iPad to make Positive!

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Use the Adobe Express app on iPad to make Positive!

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I do a “Behind the Curtain” shoot. I have a bunch of props they can use and they light behind the curtain and shoot like a silhouette.

I don’t remember who originally posted this project but thank you as it was great during hybrid/remote learning

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How to QUICKLY create a pencil drawing effect in Photopea using ANY Image - | FREE PHOTOSHOP |

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How to QUICKLY create a pencil drawing effect in Photopea using ANY Image - | FREE PHOTOSHOP |

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Halloween Photoshop Tutorial: Sugar Skull Face Paint

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Halloween Photoshop Tutorial: Sugar Skull Face Paint

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How to turn yourself into a zombie! (photoshop)

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How to turn yourself into a zombie! (photoshop)

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The Shining Twins Photoshop Challenge - CVHS Photography

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The twin girls from the movie THE SHINING

Part 1: The photos

You will need two people for this holding hands

Stand in an area with little distration in the background (a plain long hall way will look best)

Where your people are standing, make a little mark with a stick or rock or other small object. You will photoshop this out later.

Take your photo but do NOT move or put your camera down

Tell your people to switch sides, holding hands and standing on the marks

Take another photo

Photo part is done

Part 2: Photoshop

1. Open both photos

2. Using the MOVE tool, drag one of the photo onto the other Photo

3. Pull the Opacity down on the top layer to about 60%. You will want to still see part of the other photo through it.

4. Line up the Background area as best you can. Try to line up the hands as best you can.

4. Pull your Opacity back up to 100%

5. Add a Mask to your top layer. It will be a white mask

6. Choose a brush and make sure it's black to paint

7. Paint out the other person carefully

8. If you make a mistake and paint out to much, flip your brush to white and paint back in what you took out

9. Be VERY careful around the hand area. It will not be perfect, so do not worry. Do the best you can.

10. When it looks as good as you can get it, Flatten your Layers

11. Zoom in close to the hand area.

12. Select the Clone Stamp Tool

13. Clone Stamp any area on the hand, arm and surrounding areas so that it looks real and not photoshopped.

14. Zoom Out from the hands.

15. Clone Stamp any area in the background that doesn't look real or line up correctly

16. Pick and save to your computer one of the Cracked Glass File. Open in photoshop

17. Drag the Glass File onto of the Twin photo

18. Click CONTROL T at the same time

19.Drag the file to be bigger.

20. Turn it so that it fits Vertically

21. Click Enter when you have it covering your photo

22. On the LAYERS pallet where it saves NORMAL, change it to SCREEN

23. You will now have the black section gone and the cracks showing.

24. Using the MOVE TOOL, line up the main crack over the hands. This will distract from any area that doesn't look real.

25. Edit very BOLD and DARK

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The Shining Twins Photoshop Challenge - CVHS Photography

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The twin girls from the movie THE SHINING Part 1: The photos You will need two people for this holding hands Stand in an area ...

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Cool Travel Photo Idea 💡 | Jd Thecameraguy | Jd Thecameraguy · Original audio

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Cool Travel Photo Idea 💡 | Jd Thecameraguy | Jd Thecameraguy · Original audio

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585K views, 53K likes, 53 comments, 1.8K shares, Facebook Reels from Jd Thecameraguy: Cool Travel Photo Idea 💡. Jd Thecameraguy · Original audio

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Long-exposure Portraits: Creepy Photos Taught by Creepy People

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Long-exposure Portraits: Creepy Photos Taught by Creepy People

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10 Tips for Editing your Portrait Photos

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10 Tips for Editing your Portrait Photos

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Arsenal 2 - Camera Body, Meet Camera Brain.

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Arsenal 2 - Camera Body, Meet Camera Brain.

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Smarter than ever, Arsenal 2 uses AI and computational photography to help you take amazing photos in any conditions.

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TTArtisan’s New 500mm f/6.3 Full-Frame Mirrorless Lens is Just $329

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TTArtisan’s New 500mm f/6.3 Full-Frame Mirrorless Lens is Just $329

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TTArtisan’s new 500mm f/6.3 lens for full-frame mirrorless cameras is an absolute bargain at just $330.

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Wanted to share these because I thought it turned out to be a pretty fun project. Started the school's first photo 2 class this year and this was our first assignment. It's hard to tell from the perspective but these are all life size cutouts. My first unit is on print media (billboards, magazine covers, postcards) and I had them shoot in RAW, upscale in Photoshop to their height in inches, then export in 8.5x11 jpegs using the slice tool. They then had to assemble them all together and cut them out. I call it "Pieces of You."