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Introduction: Steampunk Desktop Media Amp

Yay, my first Instructable! A little background: I don't have much in the way of resources, other than the tools and various types of scrap I've managed to gather over the years, so I've become a bit of an expert at making useable art with, well... junk. Anyway, since my job allow me to listen to music while I'm sitting around waiting for people to call, and I've been on a bit of a steampunk kick for a while now (what can I say, all that brass and Victorian design is just plain neat), I decided to make a steampunk "aural enhancer" to stick on my desk and play my media through.

Most of the parts used in this project were things I had laying around the house, but I did purchase a few things:

2 - Sweet lighting sconces, $3 a piece @ the Habitat for Humanity ReStore (Best. Home improvement. Store. EVER.)
1 - single pole, single throw switch - $4 from O'Reilly Auto Parts
1 - tube of JB Stick, probably $2-3

The donor for this project was a cheap $5 USB powered mp3 player amp I got as a last minute gift for my then-girlfriend-now-wife a few years back (sorry honey... Love Ya!)

Now, obviously it would be next to impossible to make the exact same piece, and besides, who would want to? The purpose of this Instructable is to show others that you can make useful art out of just about nothing, and hopefully inspire someone to try their hand at scrapyard folk art.

OK, I think I covered all my bases, so let's get rolling with the build.

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Step 1: Fixture Disassembly and Re-wiring

Obviously, the first step, once I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted to do, was to take the sconces apart, remove the lamps, and rewire. As you're removing the lamps from the fixture, attach your new wiring to one of the old wires before you pull them out of the fixture so you don't have to try and fight around the C-curve.

The lamps are connected to the fixture with a screw-mount that is riveted to the bottom of the lamp. Make sure you save them if you want whatever you re-mount in the fixture to be removable; a finishing nail and ball peen hammer work well for removing the rivet.

Step 2: Prep Speakers and Base

The next step is to prep the base and speakers for mounting. For the speakers, I used a bit of sandpaper to roughen the back of the speaker and screw mount, then used a bit of the JB Stick to attach the mount to the speaker. Here's a tip, if you need to bend or flex the screw mount any to make the speaker fit the fixture, do it before you apply the JB Stick.

While the speakers were curing, I set to preparing the base. Originally, the brass plate on top of the base only had 2 holes, 1 for the sconce and 1 for the wall mount. Fortunately, the wooden base underneath had a third hole (giggity) at the far end, so all I needed to drill was the plate.

To mark the drilling location, I took the brass plate from the base I wasn't using, flipped it 180 degrees, and wouldn't you know it, the holes lined up perfectly. Once I had it marked, I used a finishing nail to center punch and a stepped drill bit to work the hole to the appropriate size. Basically, I drilled a step, then test fit, then drilled another step until the fixture slid in easily.

Once the fixtures were mounted, it was time to move on to wiring...

Step 3: Wiring the Speakers and Amp

Once the fixtures are attached to the base, it's time to install the speakers and mount the amp. The speakers are pretty straight forward; just run the wires through the screw mount before you solder them otherwise you'll be cursing yourself later when you have to rip everything apart and redo it :/

It's about the simplest circuit to wire, but I went ahead and included a circuit diagram anyway for reference.

Since I wanted to use 'The Device' at work, I wanted to add a cut switch for the speakers, I drilled a mounting hole in the front of the base and connected the killswitch to the negative wires coming from the speakers (see circuit diagram).

Using weatherstrip glue, I attached a piece of cardboard to the bottom of the base so the mp3 amp wouldn't short against the metal.

After running the input cable through the center hole in the base, I carefully resoldered the speaker and input connections to the circuitboard, then glued it to the cardboard under the base. Electrical tape helps hold all the wiring out of view.

Initially, the caps on the amplifier touched the desktop, so I dug some brass mounts out of the parts bin (I think they came from a WD external HDD) and glued them to the corners of the base. The notches on the top of the mount fit the lip of the base perfectly.

Step 4: Enjoy Some Tunes!

The finished product! I probably could have done more to make it look antique, but I was more concerned about the utilitarian aspect of the device. Since my computer is under the desk, I used a bit of spare USB wire to extend the power cable.

The black plastic tray mounted to the front used to be the base of the mp3 amp. I notched the sides so my Droid X and Sansa would fit.

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

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Yay, my first Instructable! A little background: I don't have much in the way of resources, other than the tools and various types of scrap I've managed to gather over the years, so I've become a bit of an expert at making useable art with, well... junk.

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Hi all,
Today I will present you my newest Steampunk-Design Workshop creation.

Here you can read something about how i got the idea to built my first Steampunk Laptop. I deside to take a video in HD, you will enjoy it!!!
Because my pictures are soo poor...

Depend on the diversity of the basic Laptops you get in this world I can show you only an overview of the single steps and the trouble you get with single parts...

For my Steampunk Laptop I use my first Laptop which still works well but is now too slow for newest applications.
It still works well for Videos, Music and Internet.
Parts List:

Toshiba Satellite 1100

Big Wooden Gingerbread Box

Profiled Timber

Plywood

Old Brass Car Horns

Copper T-Pipe

Brass Caps

Latchet

Knobs in different sizes

Red Velvet

Brass E10 Bulb base

LED's

Switches

Wood Stain

Wood Wax

Hinge Joints for Box lid and Keyboard

Enough Time

My model is the Toshiba Satellite 1100.

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Hi all, Today I will present you my newest Steampunk-Design Workshop creation. Here you can read something about how i got the idea to built my first Steampunk Laptop. I deside to take a video in HD, you will enjoy it!!! Because my pictures are soo poor...

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Introduction: The Steampunk "Wildbad 7"

Dear Steampunkers, dear Followers and DIY Fans out there

Today I would like to share a new Steampunk project with you. May I can give you some inspiration to build your own unique music machine.
The "Wildbad 7" is based on an old tube radio from SABA made in 1957 which was completely destroyed by a water accident. I got it for free and I loved the great design with the vacuum tubes.

So the idea to build a Steampunk "Wildbad 7" was born!

The following steps may give you some ideas how you could build your own device. May you don't have the same parts, but be creative. There is always a way to create something unique!

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Step 1: Preparing the Base - the SABA Wildbad 7 From 1957

First I had to clean the old chassis from the radio and the tubes. I made that only with a wet towel, because I wanted to keep the old patina on the metal parts. I checked the tubes and replaced the running ones by broken ones, because they will be only decoration.

Step 2: The Upcycling

After I finished the cleaning of the chassis I startet with the upcycling. That's what I love on Steampunk!
I choosed a lot of old metal and brass parts, some more old vacuum tubes, vintage light bulbs and so on...
You have to be creative. Try to imagine how such a machine would look during the victorian time and they used brass, copper and glass to build stunning machines.

Step 3: The New Heart - a Small MP3 Board With an USB-Plug

After I finishes the upcycling I prepared a cheap small MP3 module for a few bucks to use it as the new heart of this Steampunk Machine.
It's powered with 5V and has only 4 small buttons.
For the buttons I had a special idea: I changed the original buttons of the "Wildbad" to use them to control the MP3 device.
A few words about how I did that: I used the metal frame of the chassis for the "minus". Then I used self adhesive copper foil to create the contacts under the metal arms of each button. To the copper foil I soldered the cables for the buttons (see the pictures).
The used MP3 module saves the volume and the position of the tracks when the power is switched off. So I could reuse the original power switch as power button.
The small module is placed in the corner under the chassis.

Step 4: Questions? Feel Free to Ask!

I hope I could give you some ideas how to build a very unique MP3 device with the vintage spirit of the past.
May you will find such an old tube radio somewhere in the junk yard. The MP3 modules you can get cheap from an internet seller.
Please feel free to ask if you have some questions.

Sincerely yours

The Chocolatist

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

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Dear Steampunkers, dear Followers and DIY Fans out there Today I would like to share a new Steampunk project with you. May I can give you some inspiration to build your own unique music machine. The "Wildbad 7" is based on an old tube radio from SABA made in 1957 which was completely destroyed by a water accident.

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This is my first try to create something cool. Unexpectedly reflections from blue bar create a smile :) on central bulb. Electronic for the device is from...

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Introduction: Vintage-Style MP3 Radio

I wanted to make a radio that payed homage to the beautiful radios from the 1930's era from manufacturers like Philco and GE but has the functionality of a modern MP3 player. I could have found one of those old radios and did the conversion to MP3 but decided instead to build one from scratch from solid wood to retain a decent sound quality.

This was scratch built from 1" Pine, 1/8" Oak plywood, and 1/8" Birch plywood.

The MP3 module that I used for this particular radio was salvaged from a small player that I bought, but the same module is available commercially online from many e-retailers.
EDIT: The donor MP3 player shown was purchased from ebay, but the basic MP3 modules are also available on ebay or dx.com.
The grill cloth was bought from a vintage radio parts supplier as reproduction fabric. If anyone would like the information where to get it, just send me a line.

On to the instructions.

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Step 1: Choose Your Shape.

The shape I used for this particular radio is known as a cathedral style.

So first you will want to decide how big to make it.

I decided to make this one 10" wide by 14" high and 8" deep. But it is up to you, there was more than enough room inside to house the few electronic pieces required.
EDIT: I used a Google Sketchup model to get the dimensions figured out, and then printed it with a large format printer and used that to trace the design onto the wood.
Once you get a template drawn on bristle board, you can use that to trace your pattern onto the wood.

Then using a jigsaw or scroll saw, cut out the shape as well as the inside portion where the grill will be mounted.

You will also want to cut out a piece to use as the base of the radio where the front and back of the unit will be mounted. The size of this piece will be 1" larger that the radio itself so there will be 1/2" offset on each side.

Step 2: Router Required

I used a router to cut the depth to mount the grill. This will need to be slightly larger than the shape of the grill itself to allow it seat fully and give room for adjusting it.

The router was also used to cut a 3/32" channel to mount the side cabinet "band" later in the assembly process.

You will also want to route the outside edge of the back piece 1/8" as the cabinet "band" will sit directly on top.

I then used a Roman Ogee bit to route around the inside and outside edges of the front case, as well as around the base of the radio.

Step 3: Cutting the Grill

The grill has already been shaped and sanded so that it fits snugly into the groove routed in the front cover, so now you will want to trace your grill pattern onto the wood.

Once the pattern is on the wood, you will need to drill some holes so that you can pass the scroll saw blade through it to begin cutting. For those of us with an "Old School" scroll saw, this can be a lengthy process. Those with newer Quick Release blades will get this stage completed a little faster.

Step 4: Choose Your Colour

I like to use Minwax Oil-based stain. You know, the good old-fashioned yellow can, the stuff your Grandfather used. They have some nice colour choices and the application is pretty painless.

You'll notice that I used masking tape on the edges of the grill so it would be easier to mount the grill. This way you can just peel off the tape and use wood glue to quickly mount it without having to sand off the stain.

Once the stain has completely dried, two to three coats of polyurethane sealer will give it a very nice gloss. Be sure to lightly sand with very fine sandpaper in between coats.

Step 5: Mounting the Electronics

I cut out a another "sub-grill" that the grill cloth and the speakers will mount to. This piece was pretty much the same shape as the grill itself.

I simply stapled the fabric onto it, then used hot glue to keep the speakers in place.

I then made three "retainer" pieces to keep the sub-grill in place.

Mount the MP3 module with screws. Remember to pre-drill any holes prior to mounting the electronics to keep them from splintering.

Once you get the wires and everything connected, you should be ready to test the electronics. The donor MP3 player I used, also included a backup battery which comes in handy when the power goes out.

Step 6: Cabinet Casing

At this point, the radio should be working and ready to finish assembly.

I used a piece of 1/8" Birch plywood to make the casing. It is going to need to be the width of the radio plus enough to fill in the channels created for it, which should be about 3/4" - 1" depending on how deep you route the channels. The length of this piece will be the exact length of the outside diameter of the back of the case. Using a fabric measuring tape will make it easier to measure with the rounded shape.

Once you have it dimensioned, you will need to kerf cut the band to allow it to bend to the appropriate shape. My kerf cuts were over 3/4 through the board. You will pretty much have to cut down to the outside layer of the plywood. I used my cordless circular saw set to the right depth and clamped the board into place, with a right anlge square to keep the cuts straight. I then unclamped and moved the square for each kerf to the right measurement.

This method is fairly time consuming, but these should be tools that most craftsmen would have on hand. You could use the router or a table saw or whatever method you prefer for kerf cutting.

Now in order to make the plywood bendable enough to go around the case without cracking, soak the piece in warm water for up to half an hour. This part is also a little tricky, trial bends will determine if it's wet enough to bend without cracking.

Once the casing is in place, I used a brad nailer and wood glue to keep it in place.

Step 7: Case Veneer

I find using Iron-On veneer easier, as this can get a little tricky. On this one I've applied a Pine veneer.

You will need to cut the veneer to the exact size as there will be no room for error. Too short and you will see the plywood, too long and the veneer will ripple and warp.

Start with the radio on its side, and use a piece of cloth to cover the veneer. The cloth will not only keep you from burning the wood with the iron, but it also weighs the piece down so it won't move around on you.

Once you have that side adhered, put the radio upright to do the very rounded top and then place it back on its side to finish ironing the other side of the veneer.

Step 8: Stain and Seal

Now that the veneer is stuck on and you are satisfied, you can trim the edges and start the finishing process of the veneer.

You will want to keep it upright and apply very thin coats of stain and polyurethane to prevent runs. I taped off the pre-finished front and back case so as not to damage that finish.

Two coats of stain and three coats of polyurethane should give you a very deep, glossy finish.

Step 9: Completed

At this point your polyurethane should be dry enough to peel off the masking tape. And now you are done. Step back and admire the creation you have made.

I have made four vintage style radios now with plans for a fifth, all different shapes and sizes. This is one of my favorites because it really reminds me of those old-time radios.

Hopefully you will have as much fun making your radio as I did with all of mine. If anyone has any questions on the assembly process or where to source materials, please feel free to contact me.

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

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I wanted to make a radio that payed homage to the beautiful radios from the 1930's era from manufacturers like Philco and GE but has the functionality of a modern MP3 player. I could have found one of those old radios and did the conversion to MP3 but decided instead to build one from scratch from solid wood to retain a decent sound quality.

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Solder the L293D on a small Pcb like the Picture and connect later the Cables with Arduino and Motor.

Here is the Sketch for the Arduino and the Pins for the Switches.

I have used no limit switches because the place was too low. So i've made it about time control via arduino. The Dealay Time is the Time for a Turn of 180°

int taster=6;
int taster1=7; int tasterstatus=0; int tasterstatus1=0;

int motor1_A=9; !!

have I not used. It is for the speed of the motor. My engine has a constant speed and therefore you can let off pin 9

int motor1_A=11;
int motor1_B=10;

void setup()
{

pinMode(motor1_A,OUTPUT);
pinMode(motor1_B,OUTPUT);
pinMode(taster, INPUT);
pinMode(taster1, INPUT);
}

void loop()
{
tasterstatus=digitalRead(taster);
tasterstatus1=digitalRead(taster1);

if (tasterstatus1 == HIGH)
{
digitalWrite(motor1_A,LOW);
digitalWrite(motor1_B,HIGH);
delay(1400);
digitalWrite(motor1_A,LOW);
digitalWrite(motor1_B,LOW);
}
if (tasterstatus == HIGH)
{
digitalWrite(motor1_A,HIGH);//
digitalWrite(motor1_B,LOW);
delay(1520);
digitalWrite(motor1_A,LOW); //
digitalWrite(motor1_B,LOW);
  }

}

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Pimp Your Old Smartphone and Make a Steampunk MP3 Player With Touchscreen

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Solder the L293D on a small Pcb like the Picture and connect later the Cables with Arduino and Motor. Here is the Sketch for the Arduino and the Pins for the Switches. I have used no limit switches because the place was too low. So i've made it about time control via arduino.

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well this, depends on the flux density of the uv lights and the distance. i seriously doubt that they are as bright, as the uv light from the sun in the daytime at a distance.

as you do not want to walk up too close, and stare into them for a prolonged length of time. as with all radiation, time, distance, viewing angle and shielding are always the important factors where the eye is concerned.

light radiation is inversely proportional, to the square of the distance. at one meter from the point source, will only receive 1/4 of the flux density. so at two meters, you only, receive about 1/4 of the flux density at one meter looking directly at it.

even the visible colors, of the light spectrum can be harmful if it is intense enough to the human eye. can result in temporary or permanent, blindness.

lasers are of particular concern in this area. that can result in temporary or permanent, blindness. much more damaging, than any of the common leds to stare directly into. collimated light, does not diminish as easily as point sources with distance.

the problem with uv is you, cannot see the entire brightness of it. and can only indirectly observe the difference in brightness with a fluorescent material. unlike infra-red where you cannot see the full brightness, but can feel the heat from it.

currently 1watt, is about the maximum for a single led used for lighting. but most other common use leds, are far less powerful than this.

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well this, depends on the flux density of the uv lights and the distance. i seriously doubt that they are as bright, as the uv light from the sun in the daytime at a distance. as you do not want to walk up too close, and stare into them for a prolonged length of time.

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First we need a Musicman Ma Mp3 Player. On Ebay for small Money ;)

Lampholder Arms, Coppertube 60mm, Ballscrews,Micromotors,Sound to Light Control for Cold Cathode Lights, Cold Cathode ( Blue with Inverter),Threaded rod, Hot Glue, Switches and Batterys, Endswitches

Take the Electronics from the Housing of the Musicman. Be carefull, there are thin cables in it and ground please once ! Solder 2 Cables on the On/Off Switch from the Musicman to Control it later from outside the Tube.

Now we take a Coppertube and drill holes where also the buttons are from the Musicman. I soldered smal Brasstubes as guidance for the Buttons. ( Second Pic ). I used old Lampholders for the Speakerhousing. Cut them and take ventilation screens from the building market. Stick it together. The Speakers from the Musicman fit in exactly (Pic 5 ). Put the Electronic inside the Coppertube, fix it with Hotglue. Now by the before drilled holes we push from above ball-screw inside as tracers. Now build everything together ( Pic 6 ) and you got an Mp3 Player in a Tube. Big Sry but I have no more other pictures !!!

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The Victorian Sound-Tube...A Steampunk Mp3 Player

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
First we need a Musicman Ma Mp3 Player. On Ebay for small Money ;) Lampholder Arms, Coppertube 60mm, Ballscrews,Micromotors,Sound to Light Control for Cold Cathode Lights, Cold Cathode ( Blue with Inverter),Threaded rod, Hot Glue, Switches and Batterys, Endswitches Take the Electronics from the Housing of the Musicman.

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I love old-time radios. They're sturdy and good-looking. And there's a reason for that. Back in the day appliances were considered pieces of home furniture, so a lot of thought and care went into their design. People wanted something that not only played Glenn Miller, but that also went well with their home's traditional decor. The result was marvelous pieces of technology encased in handsome wood and fabric.

A few months ago, I inherited my grandpa's old 1940s Philco radio. It's positively manly looking. It had a few dings in the wood, but it looked fantastic sitting on my desk. It still worked, but only played AM radio. I thought it was a shame that it didn't get much use except as decoration. So I had a thought.

"Would it be possible to mod my radio so that I could play music from my iPod on it?"

To answer my question, I called up my electrical engineer brother-in-law, Ryan Davis. His response? "Of course!"

I headed over to his electrical engineering laboratory in his house with my radio in tow, and he fixed me up. Now I have an audio device with 1940s charm and 21st century technology.

I figured a lot of AoM readers would want something similar in their home or office, so I asked Ryan if he'd help me create a tutorial so you all could make your own mp3-playing old-time radio too. Ryan was happy to oblige.

Two Ways of Modding: The Easy Way and the Hard Way

There are two ways you can go about modding an old radio so you can connect your iPod to it. One approach is to add an audio input right into the old tube amplifier. This mod is nice because your iPod music gets that warm, vintage tube amp sound, and you can still maintain your radio's radio capability. This is how Ryan modded my grandpa's old Philco radio.

The problem with this approach is that it's really difficult to do for the average Joe. First, you have to find a radio that still has a working tube amp, which can be hard and makes the radio more expensive. You can find plenty of radios with working speakers, just not a working tube amplifier.

Second, you have to do some complex rewiring on the radio to add the audio input. Your first step is to find the radio's electrical schematic online. That's the easy part. There's a great site that has all the schematics for old-time radio s. The hard part is knowing how to read the schematic so you know where to add a new audio input. This takes some skill and know-how. When Ryan worked on my grandpa's radio, he tried explaining what we needed to do to make the change. It went completely over my head. Of course, I acted like I knew exactly what he was talking about ("Oh, yeah. Of course you need to put a new transistor in the flux capacitor. It's so obvious...").

With that said, if there's enough interest in seeing how to mod an old radio into an iPod speaker this way, Ryan said he'd be happy to demonstrate how to do it in a future post.

The second approach is to bypass the existing tube amp altogether by adding a new, smaller, and more modern amplifier to the radio and connecting it to the radio's existing speaker. This way is much easier because you don't need to know how to read complicated electrical schematics. You also don't need a working radio. As long as your radio has a working speaker, you're golden. You can even use a radio with a broken speaker. Just buy a new 3″ speaker for $5 and replace the old speaker in a snap.

Today, we're showing you how to mod your old radio using the easy approach. It took Ryan and I less than 30 minutes to complete this project. If you're new to electrical tinkering, it may take you a bit longer. But I'm not kidding when I say this: if you've never done any type of electrical projects, you can do this. It's the perfect weekend project to work on with the kiddos.

Ready to get started? Let's do this!

Gather Supplies
An Old-time Radio
The most important part! The best place to get them are antique stores, flea markets, or yard sales. You can find them on eBay, but they're WAY overpriced. Even broken radios on eBay go for about $60-70. And by broken I mean it doesn't work, and it's missing half of the wooden cabinet. I went to the local flea market last weekend and spotted several nice cathedral radios in great shape for $20-$30.

I picked up this old Farnsworth radio at a local antique store for about $30. The outside is in pretty good condition, but it doesn't power up. That's common with old radios, but it's okay. The only part we need to work is the speaker. Usually when old radios are burnt out, the speaker still works fine. So if you find a nice-looking vintage radio that doesn't work, buy it. It will work for our project.

Important Note: Commenter J.W. Koebel brought to our attention that if you want to use the radio's original speaker like we do in this project , the speaker needs to be a permanent magnet speaker. Radios from about the mid-1940s and on should have permanent magnet speakers. Earlier radios used electrodynamic speakers. Our amp won't work with electrodynamic speakers.

How do you know if your old-time radio has permanent magnet speakers? Check the back of the speaker. If it has 2 or 3 wires going to the speaker, it's a permanent magnet speaker.

If you decide to use an older radio that lacks a permanent magnet speaker, you can still do this project. You'll just need to pull out that speaker and replace it with a permanent magnet speaker. It's not difficult. Ryan sells a 3″ speaker on his site for $5. Pick one up when you buy the amp.
Amplifier
Ryan sells these on his site. He used his electrical engineering skills and designed these amps specifically for vintage radio mods. They should work with most types of old radios. There's one that has a stereo connection and bluetooth and another that's cheaper and just has a stereo connection. Of course if you're super handy with electronics, you can experiment with designing your own amp.
12 Volt Power Supply
You might have one lying around the house. If not, pick one up at Radio Shack.
Soldering Iron 22 Gauge Copper Strand Wire 1/8″ (3.5 mm) Audio Cable
We'll plug one end into our iPod or other audio source and the other end into our amplifier.

Mod Your Old-Time Radio

We have our supplies. Time to get to work. Keep in mind that every old-time radio is different. How this Farnsworth radio looks on the inside will be different from how your Philco or Zenith looks on the inside. However, all old radios pretty much work the same way, so the steps below should work for your radio. Just know that you may need to use your noodle a bit to find the analogous parts on your radio.
Remove Radio From Cabinet Disconnect Old Wire Speakers Connect New Speaker Wire Remove Capacitor From Potentiometer
We want to be able to control the volume with the radio's volume knob. To do that we need to run some new wire from the volume knob to the new amp. Here's how to do it.

Add New Volume Wire to Volume Knob (or Pot)

Ryan suggests making the middle wire a little longer than the other two. When we connect the wires into the amp, we need to make sure the wire from the middle soldering terminal on the pot connects with the middle screw terminal on the amp. Making the middle wire longer than the other two wires makes it easier to figure out which wire is the middle wire.
Connect Wires to New Amp Re-assemble Radio
Mount Amp Inside Radio Cabinet

Plug-in Your Power Cable and Audio Source and Play!

Here's a video of our old-time radio in action:

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Turn an Old Radio Into an MP3 Player | The Art of Manliness

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I love old-time radios. They're sturdy and good-looking. And there's a reason for that. Back in the day appliances were considered pieces of home furniture, so a lot of thought and care went into their design. People wanted something that not only played Glenn Miller, but that also went well with their home's traditional decor.

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Introduction: DIY Portable Boombox (from SCRATCH!)

Time to party! Let's rock the house! Today I will show you how to make a boombox that sounds like a genuine audiophile speaker. It's made from 100% scratch. I added an iPod docking feature, it also works with any kind of MP3 player with an auxiliary output, it also has a 2 channel RCA output. I even added an USB/SD card audio player with a remote control for the Boombox! The Total cost was $46.16 (Converted Price from "Philippine Peso")

I made this guide as specific and as step by step as I can, the only thing that dragged me down from finishing my boombox early, was the documentation for instructables that I did for this project. I hope you enjoy it!

My version was so efficient that it even had the capability to beat or match-up the sound of the Monster™ Beatbox (by Dr. Dre), Zeppeline™ Air, Altec Lancing™ IMT800 and IM7. My boombox has the capability to release a clean, deep and low bass, with the perfect midrange level and has a spectacular treble that seems to sooth the ear. It has a two way speaker system which will definitely reduce the amount of distortion given off by the speakers thus improving your audio experience.

Specs:
Frequency response: 45Hz-20kHz
Max Amplifier Wattage: 2x30W Stereo
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): 0.1%THD
Max Speaker Wattage: 150W-200W RMS
Speaker Size: Woofer (5.25"), Fullrange (1.75")
Enclosure's Dimensions: H= 5.75", L= 19", D=6"
Other Feature's: iPod Dock, USB Media Reader, IR Remote, Bass Trebble Equalizer and etc.
Audio Input Type: RCA, Auxiliary (3.5 Stereo) and 30 pin iPod Dock.
This project is ideal for: Picnics, Parties, Car Road Trips, Home Use and etc.
If you don't have time reading the long texts, there are summaries written in bright red text below each step.
"It takes pure craftsmanship and experience to build a highly efficient boombox from scraps and pieces. "

2 People Made This Project!

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Step 1: Tools and Materials

Step 2: Choosing the Best Speaker, Amplifier and Enclosure for Your Project

Of course, three of the main components of your boombox are your amplifier, speaker and your enclosure . The three of them are considered to be the major factors that can affect the speaker's performance. In this step, I am going to give off tips on choosing the best speaker, amplifier and enclosure type for your project and the other options that you could use for your alternative. If you are knowledgeable about amplifiers and speakers you can skip this step.

Plan, Canvas And Gather Information:
Be sure to plan everything before you buy your wood, speaker, amplifier and everything. Also consider the space that is limited on where you are going place your boombox. Try to research first before you buy everything. After researching, write it doen on your blueprints
Speakers:
Before you buy a pair of speakers, try to research on different brands that are reliable and have been known for producing speakers with excellent quality, brands like Dayton, Tangband, Focal, Seas, Fostex and Crown (only found in the Philippines). I chose the brand of Crown since it was known for cheap speakers with excellent sound quality, I also had great experiences with it. Try to buy speakers that can exceed 80W of audio power. Do not be fooled by the maximum wattage of the speakers, it all depends on the audio quality.

Also try to find speakers that can reach a wide range of frequency response. For woofers, a frequency response of 60Hz - 6kHz are good to start with and a frequency response of 200Hz - 20kHz for fullrange speakers are recommended. The wider the better! Mine has a two way crossover design so both speakers combined should reach 45Hz - 20kHz (without a frequency gap)

Remember that the human ear can only hear 20Hz - 20kHz of audio frequencies so don't get excited if you find speakers can go above or below the audible frequencies, it would be a great impracticality.

You can easily judge a speaker by its appearance, the magnet size, the cone's material, the size of the rubber surround, the wieght, the size and the beauty of its design.

The first time I found my speakers in the store, I easily goty excited to buy one, when I found the over sized magnets and the wide rubber surround design with a thick polypropylene cone, I told myself that I should buy these someday. When I checked the specs and its price, I was extremely impressed, everything exceeded my expectations.

Amplifiers:
Its better to make your own amplifier, I built an amplifier with a TDA8569 (2x40W BTL) amplifier chip and connected to a TDA1524 tone control circuit (Bass, Treble, Volume and Balance Knob). Chip amplifiers are definitely more energy efficient than MOSFET amplifiers. You can choose to make one or to buy one, if you are experienced in making amplifiers I suggest to make one, the TDA1554 (2x22W), TDA7394 (2x30) and TDA8560 (2x40W) sounds terrific and also try the TDA1524 tone control chip. If you don't know how to make circuits you can try to find a ready made car amplifier. Making one is cheaper than buying a ready made.

Enclosures:
If your amplifier and speakers are good but your enclosure is poorly designed, the sound quality will greatly be affected. There are two commonly used speaker enclosures, one is the ported and one is the sealed. Try the method of bracing, bracing is the of additional support structure added inside the speaker enclosure's edges, in this way vibrations can be eliminated outside the enclosure thus giving a better audio experience.

The sealed enclosure is perfect for small enclosures, it self-dampens the sound given off. The pros is that this enclosure can be used for small and compact enclosures, and gives of a smooth and damp sound while the cons is that this design will require a 100% airtight enclosure for it to be effective. The ported enclosure is only ideal for large speakers (+ 6.5 inch") with large enclosures.

You can use a ported enclosure and just plug a thick foam into the port for it to be a closed enclosure although air could still escape.

Summary: Just buy a good speaker, amplifier and research on the different types of enclosures that best suit your use.

Step 3: Measuring Every Part Needed

After choosing and buying the desired components for your boombox. It's now time to measure everything for your blueprints. Use a caliper, ruler and measuring tape to measure everything then write your measurements on a piece of paper.

Summary: Measure everything then write down your measurements on a small piece of paper.

Step 4: Marking the Lines for Cutting

In this step a little bit of Math, numerical calculations and measuring will be needed. Try to put your blueprints and a piece of scratch paper by your side. You might also need a calculator. Try to recycle wood from your other projects. Every piece of wood that I used for this project was recycled from my previous tower speaker project.

Write the main markings with a ballpen and the guidelines with a pencil.

Summary: Get your blueprints and write down the exact measurements on your wood, this will be your guide for cutting the wood.

Step 5: Cutting the Wood (Jigsaw)

It's time to cut your wood using a jigsaw. A traditional handsaw can do but using it would be tiresome and can give off unclean cuts. If you are using a jigsaw, try to buy a curving blade for a better and cleaner cut for the round holes for the speakers. A traditional way to cut holes for speakers is to use a jigsaw but first you need to drill a hole inside the speakers marking to have a start for the jigsaw cut.

Summary: Get your jigsaw and drill to cut down the wood.

Step 6: Sanding the Previously Cut Wood

I used an electric sander for a cleaner finish but you can also use a regular sanding paper. There will be two sanding sessions, one before gluing step and the other will be done after the wood putty application step.

Summary: Sand your wood using an electric sander/ sanding paper for the wood glue later on to stick properly.

Step 7: Gluing and Assembling the Enclosure

Glue the whole enclosure together according to your design. Try the method of bracing, bracing is the of additional support structure added inside the enclosure's edges, in this way vibrations can be eliminated outside the enclosure thus giving a better audio experience. Do not forget to leave the back part unglued, the back part will used later on for the wiring of the components.

Summary: Glue everything in place, use bracing if needed.

Step 8: Time to Drill and Cut Holes (Last Time for Cutting)

Now is the best and final time for cutting and drilling holes for your knobs, switches, iPod dock, connectors, USB/SD audio player module. Later on you will fill the gaps using your wood filler (putty), then sand the box for the last time, then paint or laminate your box for the final finishing.

Summary: This is the last time for drilling and cutting holes for your accessories.

Step 9: Applying Wood FIller

Apply wood filler before you start your second sanding session, by applying the wood filler, the edges would appear to be connected with each other, it prevents gaps that can ruin your enclosure's design and appearance. Later on you will sand the enclosure for the second time with the wood filler all dried up, doing this could result to having smooth edges and flat surfaces.

REMINDER: It is fine to has an excess layer of wood filler because later on you will even out the enclosure's surface by using your electric sander.

Summary: Fill the gaps and cracks using your wood filler (putty).

Step 10: Sanding the Assembled Enclosure

Use your electric sander to even out the excess wood filler on the surface of your enclosure. You can use a regular piece of sanding paper although this method is very tiresome and less efficient compared to the electric sanding method.

Summary: Sand the enclosure for the paint to stick properly (cosmetic purposes).

Step 11: Clean It for the Last Time

Be sure to give your best on cleaning the enclosure, if you don't clean it properly, the paint that you will apply, might not stick on the wood's surface. If not done properly, your paint will eventually flake-off in the near future.

Sorry, in this picture, I haven't apply the wood filler yet, just don't mind it and just follow the steps.

Summary: Clean the wood for the paint to stick properly.

Step 12: Painting the Enclosure

Wake up early in the morning to paint the enclosure for you to have a longer time to expose and let your enclosure dry under the sunlight.

Use your paint, roller, tray and thinner for painting your enclosure. Add thinner to your paint if your paint is to thick and to sticky. You can also use a can of spray paint instead of the roller method. For others who know how to laminate wood, try it. I chose the roller method since enamel paints are thick, durable and would last for a long time.

Read your paint's can and see what is the required time for the paint to dry and settle. Mine was a quick drying enamel based paint so it only took me 4 hours to dry the enclosure, I left it under the sunlight for 12 hours to ensure it dries properly. It's better to coat 2-3 layers of paint for the cracks and gaps to be covered.

I took some of the photos during night time that's why it is so blurred and dark.

My paint got ruined by the rain so I used a self adhesive roll of vinyl wallpaper.

Summary: Paint the whole enclosure using your roller, thinner and paint. Paint your enclosure 2-3 times.

Step 13: Sealing Your Fullrange Speaker Into a Cylindrical Container

Sealing your fullrange speaker into a smaller container would reduce the amount of distortion. Now its time to solder the 47uF (25V) capacitor to your speakers as a simple crossover (frequency limiter). Solder the black wire to the negative terminal of your speaker, then solder the positive terminal of your speaker to the negative side of your capacitor, after that solder the red wire to the positive side of the capacitor. Just follow the simple schematic diagram below.

I have a second version of my boombox. There were lots of improvements and revisions, including the crossovers and speakers. The crossover is now a "2nd Order Butterworth". Every part of the 2nd version is top secret, its my secret recipe. This version in this instructable is just a prototype, so please do not complain why did I just add a very small capacitor for my crossover.

Summary: Add a separate enclosure for your fullrange speaker, this would reduce distortion. Also add a capacitor as a simple crossover.

Step 14: Making the IPod Dock

Disassemble your iPod dock audio cable then remove the locking pins. Find a thick and soft aluminum sheet then bend it, after bending the sheet, use your glue gun to fasten the iPod cable to your bent aluminum sheet.

Summary: Hot glue your iPod docking cable on a bent aluminum sheet.

Step 15: Assembling the Boombox

Now that you have your enclosure ready. It's time to plug your glue gun and soldering iron. Its time to screw-up, glue-up and wire-up the speaker, amplifier, knobs, switches and plugs.

If you find small holes, gaps and cracks from your switches, speakers, plugs and everything, try to seal it with some hot glue, sealing it would prevent the air from escaping the enclosure. Remember it has to be 100% airtight as possible.

Try to become creative in wiring the LEDs in different places, this will reflect on your artistic and creativity skills.

There is a simplified schematic below (2nd Picture)

Summary: Assemble everything, use your glue gun to seal the remaining gaps.

Step 16: Leave the Rear Part of the Boombox Screwable

Leave the rear part of the boombox screwable, this would be useful for modifying the boombox in the near future. Use a strip of rubber gasket or a thick strip of padding tape to seal the rear part of the speaker then add screws around the rear panel proportionally.

Summary: Leave the rear panel screwable for further modifications.

Step 17: Your'e Done!!!!!

Enjoy it! Please rate this guide if you liked it!

The audio quality all depends on your planning, material selection, creative designing, enclosure type, power source and everything you choose.

Step 18: Additional Modification Ideas

Future Plans:
- Adding a built in battery pack (18V Lithium Ion)
- Adding a Bluetooth/ Airplay module (Wireless Audio)
- Adding an external subwoofer output
- Adding a LCD panel

Laminating the wood
- Upgrading the TDA7394 (2x30W) amp with a TDA8560 (2x40W) amp
- Replacing the transistor tone control with a TDA1524 chip tone control
- 3 Way Speaker System
- 3 Way Linkwitz Crossover

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

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