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As Angel has a run in with COVID, she has told me to prep for next week. I have been looking at YouTube videos of the manufacturing process of leather bags and shoes.
I have also been looking at books like Bag and Accessories Design by Fashionary. Looking at the various traditional Designs, there is so much to learn.

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We have all been given a few days either in the morning or afternoon to work 5 hours selling Angel London and ShollyJaay products. I am working Tuesday, Friday and Saturday from 10am till 3pm.

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This week Angel has told me to finish the patterns to get them ready to make cutting blocks.

I had to make a few adjustment edits. I had to make sure that the offset seam allowance was on the inside as the hand cut patterns already had a seam allowance. I just needed to indicate the seam allowance on the patterns for when this gets printed.

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Miniature Bag Pattern: Ready for Printing on 30 by 30cm AI

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Miniature Bag Pattern: Ready for Printing on 30 by 30cm AI

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Angel cut the gusset pattern in the TECNO interfacing. She then glued this into the bottom to give structure the bag insert which will be glued in after.

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Finishing edge painting across a variety of products

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Finishing edge painting across a variety of products

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Gluing the leather board and cutting the zip tab shapes on the leather

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Gluing the leather board and cutting the zip tab shapes on the leather

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Correcting the chains and attaching the handles

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Correcting the chains and attaching the handles

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Angel has a pop-up in John Lewis over week 9 and she has asked me to come in from 10am-3pm over 3 days including Saturday. I cannot wait to back in retail to flex the old muscle. I cannot wait to be selling again.

She has shown me throughout the week different bags and accessories that she wants to fix, repair and change in preparation. She didn't have that much to do but it was many minor things like edge painting and changing chains.

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Angel wants to prepare as much as possible prior to our visit to the manufacturers. This means she wants me to prepare patterns of the miniature bag as well as the shoulder bag. However, I will have to confirm the shoulder bag since she hasn't made a mock up of this bag yet.

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https://angelondon.com/

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Inspired by the new found freedom after Lockdown ANGEL's SS'22 Leather Goods and Accessories Collection is dedicated to all women who dream of resuming their lives to embark on new exciting journeys. The transformative power of Angel's legendary classic handbags takes shape in unconventional material combinations, maxi elements and playful details.

Everyday Glam

The Tabbris mini shoulder bag, effortlessly carried by the chain on your shoulders or as a crossbody bag. The Tabbris bag is crafted from supple leather. Its roomy with 4 compartments, which has space for your basis essentials.

SHOP TABBRIS

A FRESH TWIST ON A CLASSIC

The timeless Angel Bag is glamorous as well as practical. It flaunts an inner purple leather lining, a pocket compartment. The strap is detachable, for those who prefer to carry the bag without a strap.

Get Tempted

DAYTIME GLAM

The Gabriel bag affirms its wear-with-everything appeal. For the season, the collection daywear plays with colourful leathers as well as chunky chains. With its fresh and ultra-modern attitude, the Gabriel bag is the perfect daywear accessory, combining practicality with style.

SHOP GABRIEL

Promotions, new products and sales. Directly to your inbox.

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Inspired by the new found freedom after Lockdown ANGEL's SS'22 Leather Goods and Accessories Collection is dedicated to all women who dream of resuming their lives to embark on new exciting journeys. The transformative power of Angel's legendary classic handbags takes shape in unconventional material combinations, maxi elements and playful details.

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This week we are returning to the making of the miniature bag. I am really enjoying what I am doing for Angel. I have learned so much in which I know I can apply this in year 3 and in the future when I am designing my own accessories.

I honestly didn't realise that there were so many steps to the process. Some of the stages intermingle for example, you have to edge paint prior to gluing pattern pieces then edge paint after. There is so much information so I documented the stages to make it clear for myself and others.

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These are Angel's two favourite colours: Purple and Aubergine.

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Collar patterns on the Lining's Top Edge (1)

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Collar patterns on the Lining's Top Edge (1)

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Angel cut strips to make collar patterns for neatening the top edge of the lining for when it is sewn to the body.

Angel also cut the lining patterns in purple suede using the front body block pattern.

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0.5cm from the top edge of the lining (2)

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0.5cm from the top edge of the lining (2)

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Angel used double sided tape to make sure there wasn't any movement when sewing together.

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Angel showed me to neaten the finish, you pull the under thread to lift through the upper thread onto the wrong side to therefore tie the threads together to then burn to singe the edges for a flat surface.

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Double-sided taping the top edge of the front body and collar (6)

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Double-sided taping the top edge of the front body and collar (6)

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Angel also used double sided tape to stick the two top edges on the front body to the collar/lining before sewing.

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Sewing the top edge of the front body (7)

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Sewing the top edge of the front body (7)

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After sewing the top edges together, Angel pulls both layers slightly apart to then pull the threads into the middle to then be tied and seered.

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Marking the screw placements for metal-wear (10)

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Marking the screw placements for metal-wear (10)

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Here, Angel is using the pattern to mark a accurate placement for screws so the metal-wear can be attached.

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For a stable attachment, glue is applied to the screws to make sure the metal-wear doesn't come off when in use.

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Angel used some scrap leather to cover the screws on the inside to make sure that they were fully attached.

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Edge gluing the Main body for Lining (15)

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Edge gluing the Main body for Lining (15)

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Angel is only gluing the edge of the main body so the lining is as free as possible to be non-resistant to the fold of the main body.

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Angel is planning on taking me to a manufacturing business which she is in collaboration with. They have machines and tools that Angel does not. They are a huge part in her process since she is a very small business.

She wants to show me the variety of machines that she would like to have, if/when she gets a bigger studio. However, she is adamant in showing me how to handle leather by hand.

I am excited to see this process on a bigger scale and to witness how the process is sped up with the use of the correct machinery.

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Molly Goddard
HEYMCA
Angel London
Saul Nash
Walter Van Beirendonck
Allumer
Jane Carr
London Contour Experts
SirPlus
Simone Rocha
Jenny Packard
Sarah Holleborn
Suzie Turner

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Sewing the Collars onto the Gusset and Lining pieces (2)

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Sewing the Collars onto the Gusset and Lining pieces (2)

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Two type of miniature bags that Angel and myself cut custom chains for.

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Here, I have some scrap leather that Angel gave me to experiment with the laser.

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I have cut up the leather into near equal sizes to each of the patterns I have made in Illustrator.

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'Angel' Repeat Pattern Laser Printing Video

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'Angel' Repeat Pattern Laser Printing Video

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I did run out of suitable leather swatches. However these are the final laser cutting samples that produced.

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Angel has set up all the things that need to be done.

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Here are some ANGEL London patterns that I have made to be Laser cut/embossed into the sample leather that Angel has given me.

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I found some images online of animal skin vectors and edited them ready for embossing. I made sure that the black lined areas represent the 'skin' accordingly.

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Here is two edited image of the underbelly of a crocodile/alligator/caiman. (Not sure which one is which)

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Another Internship placement - Business of Tailoring

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Another Internship placement - Business of Tailoring

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I have found another internship with a Saville Row tailor. She has only requested me to come in on Thursday's and Angel has said ok to. I cannot wait to start this on Thursday to wit, I will not be documenting this internship.

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I have proposed to Angel that I recreate her original laser printed swatches as well as create my own designs based on her logo and different animal textures like snake/crocodile. I will have to find different animal skin textures which are easy to change into black and white in photoshop so the software for the laser printers can read it.

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Week Five was all about Embossing Leathers to mimic real leather or detailing the leather with a on-brand pattern.

Angel has given me green and blue leathers to experiment with laser cutting different patterns that she has also given samples of.

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Shoulder Bag Version of the Miniature Pattern

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Shoulder Bag Version of the Miniature Pattern

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Myself and Angel was discussing about the potential for a shoulder bag version of the miniature she is showing me how to make. She wants CADs made up so she can create stamp block to speed up the process of prepping the leather. I am in the process of making the CADs, however they need to be reviewed by her to make sure that she is happy with the design since this is part of her next collection.

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Angel gave me a belt to practise my edge painting. She has asked me to put on the next coat of edge paint to finish the belt for cutting down. She wants it to be complete before measuring and buckling the product.

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Angel has asked me to create different swatches from these two designs. She was to experiment with the power of the laser to create different embossed tanned leather samples.

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Front body pattern (left), Working pattern (Right).

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Front Body CAD for Shoulder Bag (Working Version)

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Front Body CAD for Shoulder Bag (Working Version)

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Angel want me to create a graded up version of the miniature bag that we are working on. I have already taken measurements of the shoulder bag that she wants to mimic. I am now just making the necessary adjustments to each miniature bag pattern to create a larger version.

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Beautiful Crimson Calf Leather pre-split for a 0.6mm thickness

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Beginning with Pre-split Calf Leather (1)

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Beginning with Pre-split Calf Leather (1)

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Looking for abrasions and imperfections.
Reviewing the thickness of the skin using a leather thickness gauge.
Making sure the grain has consistency.

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London Leather Workshop (Preparation Research)

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London Leather Workshop (Preparation Research)

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https://www.thelondonleatherworkshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/LEATHER-TERMINOLOGY.pdf

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These CADs are from the Original Pattern. I made CADs for Angel so she had a documented original of the original bag that she made before her decision to change the shape for a better structure.

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From the original, I made a few edits from the direction of Angel. The main body, front body and the inner and outer collar was reshaped to ratio out the proportional view of the inner pouch. The gusset also changed to be more narrow from the centre measurement.

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New pattern on the Left and the Older Version on the Right

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New (Left) Older (Right)

Many patterns are needed for just one bag. For each one, Angel and me replicated each pattern with a few measured adjustments.

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(NEW) Linings, Handle and the Inner and Outer Collars

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(NEW) Linings, Handle and the Inner and Outer Collars

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(NEW) Main Body, MB Lining, Front Body and Gusset

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(NEW) Main Body, MB Lining, Front Body and Gusset

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Placing the patterns in consistence with the grain of the leather.

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Angel liked the small grains of the skin therefore she was placing them strategically to make sure there was consistency with the main body to the front body pattern.

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CALF HIDE: The skin of a young or immature bovine animal not exceeding a certain weight. Calfskin leather has a fine grain and smooth surface; the leather is also generally more lightweight and thinner than cow's hide and is used mostly for clothing and accessories. Hides are much smaller than
cowhides, about 4-6 square ft.

COWHIDE: Leather made from un-split cowhide or its grain split. In some countries (not Spain) the term is also loosely applied to similar leather from the hide of any bovine animal. Cows provide the largest hides of about 30-45 square ft.

EMBOSSED LEATHER: Leather embossed or printed with a raised pattern either imitating or resembling the grain pattern of some animal, or being quite unrelated to a natural grain pattern.

FULL GRAIN: The term used for the outside original skin or hide which has had the hair removed, but otherwise has not been corrected or altered. Full-grain leather possesses the genuine original grain of the animal.

GRAIN: The pattern, characterised by the pores and peculiar to the animal concerned, visible on the outer surface of a hide or skin after the hair has been removed.

LEATHER: A general term for hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible. The hair or wool may or may not have been removed. Leather is also made from hide or skin which has been split into layers or segments before or after tanning.

NATURAL GRAIN: Leather whose grain has not been altered in any way, so the natural appearance of the grain is apparent.

SHEEP: Sheep are almost always chrome tanned. A little thicker than lamb sometimes with a light pebbled grain, and similar softness. Mostly used for garment leather. Hides are usually 7-10 square feet and 2-3oz thick.

SPLIT: The under portion of a hide or skin that has been split into two or more thickness. The grain split, used to make full grain and top grain leather, comes from the outer split or the outer layer of the hide. The inner split is trimmed and finished as suede or genuine leather. Inner splits may also be
finished and embossed to simulate a full top grain. Finished splits should only be used in low-stress applications because they are weaker than grain leather.

SUEDE: Velvet-like nap finish produced on leather with abrasive action.

WEIGHT: The weight of leather is measured in ounces per square foot.

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500g x2 Weights holding the pattern against the leather

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Using a razor sharp scalpel knife, Angel cut the leather extremely closely to the pattern as she possibly could, to get the best edge for when she is finishing the edges later.

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All exposed patterns of the bag have a consistent grain.

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Grain Consistency and Pattern Accuracy (4)

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Grain Consistency and Pattern Accuracy (4)

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Making sure the main body and front body are the same around the bottom corners as these areas will be the 'stand' for the bag and need to be straight and balanced.

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Week Four was all about the preparation of the leather.

We are making the miniature bag! YAY! And also fixing a few details on other and attracting metal-wear on completed bags ready for photography and shipment.

Angel showed me the prepping process which take up most of the time when making a leather bag.

The leather or rather skin has to be carefully reviewed for imperfections, abrasions, tanning errors and texture irregularities. These need to be highlighted and avoided when placing the pattern before cutting.

Next Angel showed me how to carefully cut the patterns on the leather using a new scalpel blade for the cleanest edge as it is all about the finish for when the edges are primed and painted.

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Week Three was all about Paper Patterns converted into Illustrator Patterns.

During week two, Angel and I made adjustments to the pattern that Angel wants to feature on her website as a new bag range.

I have taken those paper pattern blocks, scanned them and made precisely measured replicas on Adobe Illustrator. I have never done accessory patterns on Illustrator before so it was fun self teaching.

Using illustrator with the precise measurements taken by myself, I was able to adjust the bag pattern to give it 2.5mm width extension on both sides of the bottom, to give the bag a more structured look. This has equated to a 5mm adjustment from the original pattern which has changed the shape modestly.

Angel has also requested that I make a shoulder bag version of the miniature bag in the similar size to unfinished bag that she wants to be recreated into the new collection. I am currently still doing this but will have it finished for it to make machine cut using her pattern printer.

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Leather Backing - Hard backing for full Structured Accessories
TECNO - Leather Interfacing Stabiliser
TEK 950 - Contact Adhesive (Bonding Leather)
Adhesive Sponge Backing - Soft Leather Interfacing
Split Leather - Under layers of leather to thin down the skin. (Off cuts can be used for interfacing backing for soft feel leathers and soft leather designs)
Strong Double-sided Tape
Rubber-Based Edge Paint
Fine and Corse Sand Paper

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Week Two was all about tools, technique and pattern cutting. Accuracy is key!

Angel showed me that a sharp scalpel knife is the best tool for the most accurate results. That and a firm but stead hand. Angel has allowed me to practise her technique from when she was shown in her class.

Pattern Drafting:
For precise results, she used only half of the desired shape first. She then uses that half pattern to cut a full pattern on the fold. This is done by scoring the a line with the back of a scalpel knife. Using the knife while the paper is still folded, she makes an indented point in the paper with the knife. So when unfolded, the point is replicated on both halves. This is to make a straight line accurately from the centre line.
Cutting curves is rather difficult. However, Angel has shown me that cutting at many straight lines around the edge of the curve is the cleanest way for accurate results.

Leather and necessary materials:
Angel has so many types of leathers and accessory materials. I am fascinated by the skin textures and replica skin textures that she is able to mimic using laser cutting.
Upon browsing, I have seen that she has many authentic crocodile, caiman and alligator skins. I love the variety of smooth and roughness of each skin. Each have their own unique scaled pattern. You can tell that each are vastly different creatures spanning from all different parts of the world.

She also uses calf and lamb leathers for her soft-feel handbags. I love the delicacy of the calf and lamb. You can tell that this is a young skin since there are no abrasions on the surface texture and the skin wrinkles are small suggesting it was a few months old.

She has also shown me a variety of leather backings, adhesive sponge and splitting off-cuts and their uses. Many of which are to create structure and decoration for when the garment is finished. They are also used to support the leather from stretching and loosing its shape, in which, would ruin the bag and design.

I honestly cannot wait to get stuck in and make a bag!!!

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Fine and Corse Hand File
Edge Roller
Weighted Roller
Non-sterile Scalpel

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Both main bond and front body require shape

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Angel wanted to use this adhesive sponge interfacing to create a edged detail on when the leather is adhered to the next layer of interfacing.

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Using a Compass to score 0.5mm from edge (8)

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Using a Compass to score 0.5mm from edge (8)

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0.5mm of the sponge is taken off the edges gently to not damage the leather beneath

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Angel wanted to create a soft feel leather by using the sponge and to create the shape when glued to the TECNO interfacing.

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Soft interfacing backing to support the leather and give structure and shape with the sponge interfacing

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Second Layer of Interfacing decisions (10)

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Second Layer of Interfacing decisions (10)

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Here, Angel was showing me that each interfacing will give a different structure and feel to the leather. She decided against using this soft backing as it was too flimsy since the leather was soft anyway. She then decided to use the TECNO adhesive interfacing instead.

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This is the glue angel used to make her bags. This is a contact glue that only sticks to itself one it dries and becomes tacky.

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Sticking the leather onto a slightly larger TECNO interfacing. This is so it can be cut down for the most accurate placement.

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As you can see, the TECNO interfacing has given it a good base structure for stability as this part of the pattern will act as the 'legs' of the bag.

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Here, Angel is making sure that the suede lining is going to fit before she applies the glue.

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Angel stuck the purple suede lining down first 0.3cm from the bottom and then gently rolled the lining up around the fold.

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Angel is using the underbody split of calf leather that she kept. She decided to use it as an interfacing for a handle since it was soft and was leather like the top skin. This provides the handle to be moveable and flexible when held.

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Old-school print press in substitute to machine stamp.

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Angel is using her print press to punch half of the cutting stamp at a time through the split calf leather.

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Cutting the unpunched leather with Scalpel (4)

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Cutting the unpunched leather with Scalpel (4)

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Since the proper machine wasn't used as Angel does not have that in her studio, she used the print press. However, it did not cut the skin fully therefore Angel resorted cutting along the indented lines that the stamp made.