# data[].attributes.body
"Many stylists avoid servicing clientele with extremely curly or coily hair due to a lack of understanding. But as the demographics of our country change, all stylists need to be equipped for a wider range of textures. The makeup of our families are changing and it's our responsibility to be able to service anyone who sits in our chair," says Taylor. The cosmetology education system hasn't evolved quick enough to keep up with the times. Typically, the only information we get about highly textured hair is a brief overview of relaxers, which people aren't wearing as much as they used to. Textured hair—especially African-American hair—is often viewed as intimidating, which is mainly due to a lack of information and hands-on practice.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Textured Hair: Filling the Education Gap

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Here's a simple fact: The demographics of our country are changing. Some of the fastest growing populations tend to have wavy, curly or kinky hair textures. | The new Texture Academy is specifically geared toward hair professionals with limited exposure to highly textured hair.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
One thing you may not know about me, is just over a year and a half ago I got diagnosed with Graves disease. Graves is an autoimmune disease, where the immune system attacks itself and causes the thyroid gland (a small butterfly shaped organ in front of your throat) to enlarge and become overactive, or "hyperthyroid". It's also an endocrine/hormonal disease, as the thyroid controls the hormonal system (hard to imagine given it's up by your throat).

The thyroid is the pace maker of the body, so an overactive thyroid means everything goes into speed overload. My resting heart rate increased from its normal 50-60 (I was pretty fit) to close to 100. Walking up a small hill would quickly push that closer to 200. I had terrible insomnia, body sweats, hand shakes, greater than usual anxiety and irritability, overactivity in the nether regions, and a bulging eye (google some pics if you will). In addition, I lost a lot of weight (BMI below 18), and my reproductive and hormonal system completely shut up shop.

So, I embarked on a course of treatment with antithyroid medication, but the prognosis was always that most cases can't be cured and need to eventually have radioactive therapy (like a type of chemotherapy), to kill the overactive thryoid off. Alternatively I could get my thryoid cut out, which results in a rather ominous looking long horizontal scar right across your throat. This effectively gives you hypothyroidism, so you have to take another drug for the rest of your life to recreate the function of the destroyed thyroid. Hypothyroidism has a host of other problems associated with it. Not to mention that removing the thyroid doesn't do anything to address the underlying imbalances in the first place.

Now hang on a second? I was in my 20's. I was healthy and fit. There was no genetic history of the disease in my family. The old 'random chance' argument tossed at me by my specialists just didn't seem to ring true. I embarked on the Western medicine course of treatment as instructed, but also went about my own research as to why this could have happened to me. What I found was pretty astounding.

One aspect that I learnt was that organic healthy plant-based foods have the ability to heal, while conventional processed animal-heavy foods have the power to harm. That a toxic and stressful emotional environment (aka my job) was a key trigger for a number of diseases including autoimmune and cancer. And lastly, that there were hundreds of toxic chemicals in my skin care, make-up, body lotion, body wash, haircare, perfume, and household cleaning products.

Today I want to share with you some important discoveries I made about our everyday skin care and beauty products, so you can avoid them too.

The Shocking Truth About The Beauty Industry

Here's some scary facts about the personal care and beauty industry. These differ slightly between countries, but the general approach holds true:

1. Almost any chemical can be used as an ingredient in personal care products

2. Labels are allowed to be misleading and incomplete - companies don't have to list all their ingredients

3. Unsubstantiated claims about product benefits are completely allowed

4. There is almost no required safety testing of products or ingredients - less than 20% of ingredients have actually been assessed

5. The average woman uses 12 products per day containing over 168 ingredients (absorbing ~2kg of chemicals a year); a man goes through 6 products with 85 ingredients; a child is exposed to 5 products with 61 ingredients; whilst a teenage girl (hello autoimmune disease) is exposed to a whopping 17 products with over 230 ingredients every day. Most of which are untested safety-unproven chemicals.

6. Products commonly contain penetration enhancers to drive ingredients deeper into the skin - that means more chemicals absorbed into your bloodstream.

7. These chemicals have been scientifically proven to be linked to cancer, endocrine/hormonal disease (alarm bells), thyroid function disruption (more alarm bells), learning disabilities, asthma, respiratory disease, skin disease, liver damage, brain damage and development problems, immune system damage, male and female reproductive hormone disfunction, damaged sperm, and fetal development issues.

You're kidding me, right? Surely our governments would be onto this stuff? Unfortunately, the clout of large pharmaceutical and beauty companies, who have a heck of a lot to gain from the industry (and equally as much to lose), use their bargaining power and bulging wallets to make sure safety regulations banning these practices aren't ever passed. Don't mess with Mr Procter or Mr Gamble now.

Misleading Labeling

Watch out for labels that say "natural" or "organic". There are currently no regulations in place governing the use of these terms, which means a product can contain only 1% organic ingredients and 99% chemicals, but slap "organic" on the label.

The same goes for products labelled "paraben free", "ammonia free", "sulfate free". They're usually from big companies who've succumbed to the public becoming aware of the dangers of a certain ingredient. So they remove that particular substance, leave the rest of the chemicals in there, and slap a "xxx-free" label on the front alongside some pretty pictures of flowers and rolling fields. It's called "Greenwashing".

Even certification doesn't always guarantee safety - products certified as organic can contain as little as 10% organic ingredients, depending on the certification body and type.

Learn to be a stealth label reader and always turn a product around to see what ingredients are in it. If you can't recognize them, it's probably a good sign to ditch it. Alternatively, source your products from someone you trust, who's done the research for you, and has your best interests at heart (me!).

Nasties to avoid

Here are some key ingredients to avoid: Parabens (propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl), Formaldehyde, Toluene, DBP (dibutyl phthalate), PEG, Ceteareth, Polyethylene, Petrochemicals, DMDM Hydantoin, Triclosan, Retinyl Palmitate or Retinol, and Oxybenzone. This is merely an entree into the lengthy list of chemicals we're exposed to.

Also avoid anything with "Fragrance/Parfum", unless you've researched exactly what's in it. This is a catch all term many companies use, that can include over 3000 undisclosed chemicals.

If you're not sure about an ingredient, visit the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database. You can enter any ingredient, as well as a number of brands, companies and products, and find out the hazard rating.

Two organic ranges i'm loving right now

So what can I use I hear you say? Luckily there are a growing number of companies out there who truly care about this topic, and are doing their ethical darnedest to create skin care ranges for both men and women, that are truly natural and organic, kind to the environment, aren't tested on animals, and actually work. Once you make the switch, you'll suddenly realise that that stinging sensation you used to get from your "serum" was not normal!

Two organic ranges that I am loving right now are Annmarie Gianni, and Sally B's Skin Yummies. Both companies are family owned and operated, adhere to the strictest of environmental, ethical and quality principles, and create products which are both beautiful to use, but are also truly nourishing to your body. They also come highly recommended by a number of key public figures in the organic health and beauty sphere, including Kris Carr, Jess Ainscough from The Wellness Warrior, and Kimberly Snyder. I've personally used both of them and would highly recommend. If you'd like to learn more about the ranges click here.
THIS WEEK'S CHALLENGE FOR YOU: As a consumer, the greatest way we can instigate change is to use our buying power to move the market - and help make skin care products safe for us all. Try switch one of your products to a truly organic alternative this week.
Would love to hear your thoughts.

Sources: Environmental Working Group, Campaign for Safe Cosmetics

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The Shocking Truth About The Beauty Industry - Be Good Organics

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
One thing you may not know about me, is just over a year and a half ago I got diagnosed with Graves disease. Graves is an autoimmune disease, where the immune system attacks itself and causes the thyroid gland (a small butterfly shaped organ in front of your throat) to enlarge and become overactive, or "hyperthyroid".

# data[].attributes.body
“There is a point where your position (in the shop) drastically changes when you become a designer. That’s why most workers put up with it (hard work), because they know they just have to put up with it for a few years to be in that position,” Song said, adding that a prominent designer can even influence how a shop is run.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
From the standard cut and dry to celebrity treatments worth millions of won per session, you could say hairdressing is a profession that will never go out of style. But behind the glamour lies a long history of disputes between workers and shop owners.

The hairdressing industry in recent years has been hit with complaints from workers who say they are overworked and underpaid -- getting significantly less than the legal minimum wage of 8,720 won ($7.50) per hour.

"I started off with 1.2 million and am now being paid 1.3 million a month. It differs depending on the salon, but my shop gives me 100,000 won more every time I pass the level test," said a 23-year-old hairdresser who asked to be identified only as Park. "I asked why it's below the minimum wage and they told me that's just how the hairdressing industry is."

Park is currently sitting on three years of experience as an entry-level hairdresser, or intern, and has worked in the Seoul fashion capitals of Apgujeong, Hongdae and Gangnam. The customary work schedule in the industry is around 10 hours a day, six days a week, and it is rare for interns to get the mandated lunch hour.

'Underpaid and overworked'
On a 52-hour-a-week schedule -- the maximum number of hours allowed under the Labor Standards Act -- the minimum monthly wage amounts to a little over 1.8 million won. But Park and other beauty salon interns say they work more and get paid less.

Employers who violate the Minimum Wage Act can face up to three years in prison or fines of up to 20 million won.

The Labor Standards Act stipulates that employees who work eight or more hours in a day are entitled to an hour of free time during work hours. But Park says whether or not interns get a lunch break depends on the supervising hairdresser.

"When we're busy and nobody tell us to go have lunch, we may not get a chance. It all depends on the hair designers and the shop owner," she said.

Park and other hairdressers must go through a mandatory internship. They are required to wash clients' hair, clean up and do the other grunt work needed to run the shop while learning the ropes.

They are also required to pay tuition to gain the necessary hairdressing skills, which puts their paychecks in the lower 1 million won range.

Being an intern is par for the course in most work environments, but beauty salon workers are often required to intern for at least two years or more. Then they take a test administered by the employers, who decide if they can be promoted to hair designers.

While there is an official hairdressing license that can be acquired, most salons follow an apprenticeship system where the shop owners decide whether to promote their interns. Work experience as a hair designer can be gained only after that promotion.

Shop owners point to cost of keeping unskilled employees
"If we refuse the conditions, they may not promote us. It's entirely up to the shop. They may hold the test and not pass us," said another hairdresser, surnamed Kim. "It's hard to say anything when you're just a step away from becoming a designer, so we just suck it up."

While The Korea Herald contacted several hairdressers who voiced similar complaints, it is unclear how many of the country's hairdressers spend years on salaries below minimum wage.

In 2013, a group called the Youth Community Union carried out a study on 198 beauty salons across the country and found that the workers were paid an average hourly wage of 2,971 won -- well below the legal minimum of 4,860 won per hour at the time. The group has not released a subsequent report on the issue, nor has any other organization.

The Korean Beauticians' Association, an umbrella organization with 74,000 members across the country, says the problem is confined to a very small number of large beauty salon franchises. "To our knowledge, these franchises charge for education and lunch because the starting-level staff members have low production," said Seo Yeong-min, the association's public relations director.

Seo said most of its member salons do not bring in enough even to pay the minimum wage, and that it usually takes unskilled beginners two to four years in the field to become hair designers.

"From the shop owners' point of view, they take a few years to train an unskilled worker, only to see their employees get a better-paying job as soon as they're qualified as designers," Seo said. "Shop owners are definitely not the ones with all the power in this industry."

Song Yeong-woo, the chief researcher for the Korean Beauticians' Association, said the apprenticeship system in the beauty industry creates a unique situation.

"There is a point where your position (in the shop) drastically changes when you become a designer. That's why most workers put up with it (hard work), because they know they just have to put up with it for a few years to be in that position," Song said, adding that a prominent designer can even influence how a shop is run.

She said it is hard to compile figures on the average work environment for hairdressers because each shop is run differently, and it is nearly impossible to even define what an "average" environment is.

While there is not enough data to determine typical working conditions in the beauty industry, interning for years on end is definitely not the norm in other fields. The law states that when workers sign contracts for a year or more of employment, they can be paid less than minimum wage while they are "trainees" -- but this can continue for no more than three months.

What is less clear is why such customs exist, since shop owners and young interns sing different tunes on the matter of yearslong apprenticeships at low wages. Owners say it is based on a mutual understanding that employees have to pay their dues until they can pull their own weight, but workers say they are afraid to speak out in an industry where poor treatment is all too common.

Park, the hairdresser, said she and other interns refrain from complaining even when their pay is docked unfairly, out of fear of getting a bad reputation. "It's a small industry and if you are working at a large shop, the word is bound to get out (that you complained). That's what scares us," she said.

By Yoon Min-sik ( minsikyoon@heraldcorp.com)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The beauty industry's not-so-beautiful side

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
From the standard cut and dry to celebrity treatments worth millions of won per session, you could say hairdressing is a profession that will never go out of style. But behind the glamour lies a long history of disputes between workers and shop owners.

# data[].attributes.body
Working long hours amid noxious fumes, salon workers, typically women of color, are in constant contact with chemicals linked to various illnesses and reproductive health problems.
One particularly popular and controversial hair treatment is Brazilian Blowout, which produces formaldehyde gas linked to cancer and associated with respiratory ailments.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
(Photo by Ryan Pierse/Getty Images)

You shouldn't have to suffer to be beautiful. But many women suffer for the beauty of others, polishing nails and styling hair with a toxic palette of chemicals.

Working long hours amid noxious fumes, salon workers, typically women of color, are in constant contact with chemicals linked to various illnesses and reproductive health problems.

While environmental justice campaigns have historically focused on localized pollution issues, the National Healthy Nail & Beauty Salon Alliance organizes around the intersection of workplace environmental health and racial and economic justice. According to the Alliance's analysis, the hazards endemic to the nail salon industry are stratified by ethnicity and gender: roughly four in ten workers are Asian immigrants, many of them of childbearing age, poor, uninsured and with limited English-speaking ability. And they are assaulted daily by invisible threats:

On a daily basis and often for long hours at a stretch, nail and beauty salon technicians - most of whom are women of reproductive age - handle solvents, glues, polishes, dyes, straightening solutions and other nail and beauty care products, containing a multitude of unregulated chemicals that are known or suspected to cause cancer, allergies, respiratory illnesses, neurological and reproductive harm.

These toxic environments reflect the marginal nature of neighborhood beauty shops that operate with little oversight. The Alliance reports that workers are often crammed into ​"poorly ventilated, small workspaces," lacking protective gear, sometimes using inaccurately labeled products, not knowing to protect themselves.

Environmental justice activists in Harlem, New York, are investigating the health implications of beauty products marketed to women of color with a ​"Beauty Map" project. The data visualization pinpoints where and how these ethnic beauty products are sold in the community. According to WE ACT's research:

The presence of ethnic personal care products sold in pharmacies, discount chains, and corner stores in Northern Manhattan, revealed more than 600 non beauty related points of source in addition to the 348 beauty salons, supply stores, and hair braiding shops in the area....

Given the prevalence of ethnic personal care products sold in Northern Manhattan stores and use among residents, WE ACT is advocating for chemical policy that will better protect consumers against potentially harmful ingredients in personal products.

One particularly popular and controversial hair treatment is Brazilian Blowout, which produces formaldehyde gas linked to cancer and associated with respiratory ailments. Earlier this year, in a Nation Institute report, California-based stylist Jennifer Arce talked about becoming sick from Brazilian Blowout, recalling that among her coworkers, ​"We were all getting rashes, headaches, and bloody noses." Pointing to a workplace culture of fear, she said, ​"I'm now hearing from hair stylists who have had their jobs threatened and are being bullied by co-workers and management if they complain about exposure to Brazilian Blowout."

In New York City, the ACLU and labor activists have campaigned to protect, and raise public awareness about, low-income immigrant nail salon workers facing abuse from their employers and the workplace toxins.

Despite these hazards, women workers can find power at the interface between a poisonous industry and consumers who lust for beauty. The California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative has brought together salon workers, owners and public health advocates to provide health and safety training for salons and to push for tighter regulations on the industry.

The Collaborative, which includes Asian Health Services and other community organizations, has worked with San Francisco salons to raise workplace standards cooperatively. In collaboration with city and county environmental authorities, the Collaborative has partnered with Asian Law Caucus and Environment California to set up a recognition program for salons that keep their shops free of the ​" toxic trio " of nail polish chemicals (toluene, dibutyl phthalate and formaldehyde). Additionally, the group is pushing to expand the bilingual services provided by safety regulators and the state Board of Barbering and Cosmetology.

The Collaborative's policy director Catherine Porter told In these Times that while stronger regulations are needed, a rewards system for salons that use less toxic products and greener practices could motivate local owners to promote healthier workplaces:

We see recognition programs as a way that nail salons can set themselves apart from their competition. Nail salons will say to themselves, ​"Oh, if I use safer products and safer practices, that's actually something that I can market, and I can use that to attract more customers and a more loyal customer base." Plus, we think that as more salons move in the direction of using less toxic products, that will in turn pressure nail product manufacturers to develop safer alternatives.

The state of California recently gave advocates a boost with a legal settlement that will stop deceptive labeling practices by the manufacturer of Brazilian Blowout. The Collaborative and the National Healthy Nail & Beauty Salon Alliance has called for stronger federal labor protections and stricter labeling and reporting standards. The proposed federal Safe Cosmetics Act would not only ramp up federal oversight of personal care products but also move the industry toward phasing out the most dangerous chemicals.

But despite these community-driven efforts, the supply chain remains dominated by companies that profit by degrading environmental health, and by a consumer culture that endorses the trading of health for beauty. As workers absorb the poisonous cost of ​"perfection," the ugly mirror image of the beauty business is slowly coming to light.

Michelle Chen is a contributing writer at In These Times and The Nation, a contributing editor at Dissent and a co-producer of the ​"Belabored" podcast. She studies history at the CUNY Graduate Center. She tweets at @meeshellchen.

You shouldn't have to suffer to be beautiful. But many women suffer for the beauty of others, polishing nails and styling hair with a toxic palette of chemicals.

Working long hours amid noxious fumes, salon workers, typically women of color, are in constant contact with chemicals linked to various illnesses and reproductive health problems.

While environmental justice campaigns have historically focused on localized pollution issues, the National Healthy Nail & Beauty Salon Alliance organizes around the intersection of workplace environmental health and racial and economic justice. According to the Alliance's analysis, the hazards endemic to the nail salon industry are stratified by ethnicity and gender: roughly four in ten workers are Asian immigrants, many of them of childbearing age, poor, uninsured and with limited English-speaking ability. And they are assaulted daily by invisible threats:

On a daily basis and often for long hours at a stretch, nail and beauty salon technicians - most of whom are women of reproductive age - handle solvents, glues, polishes, dyes, straightening solutions and other nail and beauty care products, containing a multitude of unregulated chemicals that are known or suspected to cause cancer, allergies, respiratory illnesses, neurological and reproductive harm.

These toxic environments reflect the marginal nature of neighborhood beauty shops that operate with little oversight. The Alliance reports that workers are often crammed into ​"poorly ventilated, small workspaces," lacking protective gear, sometimes using inaccurately labeled products, not knowing to protect themselves.

Environmental justice activists in Harlem, New York, are investigating the health implications of beauty products marketed to women of color with a ​"Beauty Map" project. The data visualization pinpoints where and how these ethnic beauty products are sold in the community. According to WE ACT's research:

The presence of ethnic personal care products sold in pharmacies, discount chains, and corner stores in Northern Manhattan, revealed more than 600 non beauty related points of source in addition to the 348 beauty salons, supply stores, and hair braiding shops in the area....

Given the prevalence of ethnic personal care products sold in Northern Manhattan stores and use among residents, WE ACT is advocating for chemical policy that will better protect consumers against potentially harmful ingredients in personal products.

One particularly popular and controversial hair treatment is Brazilian Blowout, which produces formaldehyde gas linked to cancer and associated with respiratory ailments. Earlier this year, in a Nation Institute report, California-based stylist Jennifer Arce talked about becoming sick from Brazilian Blowout, recalling that among her coworkers, ​"We were all getting rashes, headaches, and bloody noses." Pointing to a workplace culture of fear, she said, ​"I'm now hearing from hair stylists who have had their jobs threatened and are being bullied by co-workers and management if they complain about exposure to Brazilian Blowout."

In New York City, the ACLU and labor activists have campaigned to protect, and raise public awareness about, low-income immigrant nail salon workers facing abuse from their employers and the workplace toxins.

Despite these hazards, women workers can find power at the interface between a poisonous industry and consumers who lust for beauty. The California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative has brought together salon workers, owners and public health advocates to provide health and safety training for salons and to push for tighter regulations on the industry.

The Collaborative, which includes Asian Health Services and other community organizations, has worked with San Francisco salons to raise workplace standards cooperatively. In collaboration with city and county environmental authorities, the Collaborative has partnered with Asian Law Caucus and Environment California to set up a recognition program for salons that keep their shops free of the ​" toxic trio " of nail polish chemicals (toluene, dibutyl phthalate and formaldehyde). Additionally, the group is pushing to expand the bilingual services provided by safety regulators and the state Board of Barbering and Cosmetology.

The Collaborative's policy director Catherine Porter told In these Times that while stronger regulations are needed, a rewards system for salons that use less toxic products and greener practices could motivate local owners to promote healthier workplaces:

We see recognition programs as a way that nail salons can set themselves apart from their competition. Nail salons will say to themselves, ​"Oh, if I use safer products and safer practices, that's actually something that I can market, and I can use that to attract more customers and a more loyal customer base." Plus, we think that as more salons move in the direction of using less toxic products, that will in turn pressure nail product manufacturers to develop safer alternatives.

The state of California recently gave advocates a boost with a legal settlement that will stop deceptive labeling practices by the manufacturer of Brazilian Blowout. The Collaborative and the National Healthy Nail & Beauty Salon Alliance has called for stronger federal labor protections and stricter labeling and reporting standards. The proposed federal Safe Cosmetics Act would not only ramp up federal oversight of personal care products but also move the industry toward phasing out the most dangerous chemicals.

But despite these community-driven efforts, the supply chain remains dominated by companies that profit by degrading environmental health, and by a consumer culture that endorses the trading of health for beauty. As workers absorb the poisonous cost of ​"perfection," the ugly mirror image of the beauty business is slowly coming to light.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Workplace Toxics Reveal the Beauty Industry's Ugly Side

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
You shouldn't have to suffer to be beautiful. But many women suffer for the beauty of others, polishing nails and styling hair with a toxic palette of chemicals.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
All that glitters is not gold: the dark side of the beauty industry | etui

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Because they contribute to our wellbeing, beauty professionals are rarely seen as workers who face health and safety risks. And yet, those who take care of the body of others pay the price with their personal health. There are extremely few of these beauty workers who do not suffer from musculoskele…

# data[].attributes.body
Cosmetology careers are incredibly varied and many people enjoy putting their creativity to work in helping people look their best. As is true with most jobs, this field does have its occupational hazards. If you're good with your hands and enjoy pampering others, a cosmetology career may suit you perfectly – as long as you are also aware of the disadvantages, including cosmetician job stress and other concerns.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Cosmetology careers are incredibly varied and many people enjoy putting their creativity to work in helping people look their best. As is true with most jobs, this field does have its occupational hazards. If you're good with your hands and enjoy pampering others, a cosmetology career may suit you perfectly - as long as you are also aware of the disadvantages, including cosmetician job stress and other concerns.

Cosmetologists specialize in improving and maintaining a client's personal appearance. Although the exact scope of the job depends on state licensing laws, most cosmetologists cut and style hair, give treatments to the hair and skin, and apply makeup. Other tasks performed by cosmetologists include manicures, pedicures, hair removal and non-therapeutic massage.

In every state, you must complete an approved training program before beginning a career as a cosmetologist. Some high schools, vocational or technical schools and two-year colleges offer the relevant courses. Full-time cosmetology training usually takes a minimum of nine months, and some colleges have two-year associate degree programs. Cosmetology school cost is also a concern for many people. The bottom line is that while cosmetology is a legitimate and often rewarding profession, entering it requires both time and money.

After training, you must pass state licensing exams, which often include both a written test and a styling test. Most states also require a licensing fee, and many states require you to renew your license regularly and pay a renewal fee.

One of the many cosmetology disadvantages is that this work is physically tiring and hard on the back, legs and feet. Cosmetologists must stand most of the time as they cut and style hair and apply hair and skin treatments. The hours often include evening and weekends, because salons stay open when working clients are available for services.

Other beautician dangers include the constant use of shampoos, hair dyes, and permanent wave and straightening solutions may cause skin irritation in those prone to allergies. The fumes from some chemicals in cosmetology products also can irritate the eyes and lungs.

The median hourly wage for hairdressers, hairstylists, and cosmetologists was $12.54 as of May 2019. The top 10 percent of earners made more than $24.94 per hour while the lowest 10 percent made less than $8.86.

Cosmetologists earned median hourly pay of $12.54 in 2019, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. For a full year at 40 hours per week, this equals $26,090. Many cosmetologists work only part-time and actually receive less, though it should be noted that many workers in this field receive tips of customers which can greatly increase take-home pay.

Cosmetologists who want to increase their income face several obstacles. In many shops, beauticians have to pay rent on their booth spaces. Experienced operators often open their own salons, but they must find and keep clients to make money. Jobs for cosmetologists is expected to increase by 8 percent between 2018 and 2028, and those who retire or leave for other work will create additional openings. However, cosmetologists who want to move to higher-paying salons will face intense competition.

A typical cosmetologist job description doesn't always include its emotional tasks and social risks. Cosmetologists have to be friendly and patient with all types of customers, even the difficult and surly ones. The must pay attention to what clients want in a haircut, style or treatment to cultivate repeat customers. Some services, such as color or permanent waves, require precise timing - or a client's hair may be ruined. The risk of making a mistake, displeasing clients and losing them adds to a stylist's job stress.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The Bad Side of Being a Cosmetologist. A cosmetology career puts your creativity to work in helping people look their best. Although the scope of the job depends on state licensing laws, most cosmetologists cut and style hair, give treatments to the hair and skin, and apply makeup.

# data[].attributes.body
Some of the disadvantages of being a cosmetologist are low salary, long hours, and difficult customers. It’s also a job not suited to everyone who wants to work in the beauty industry – for some people, other careers might be a better fit.
You also won’t be able to make everyone happy! Some customers may not know what they want, or are unable to explain themselves adequately. You might do everything that they ask you to do, but in the end, the still might not be satisfied.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
On the surface, cosmetology seems like a great career! But it can also be tough, especially for those just starting out.
Some of the disadvantages of being a cosmetologist are low salary, long hours, and difficult customers. It's also a job not suited to everyone who wants to work in the beauty industry - for some people, other careers might be a better fit.
Is work as a cosmetologist right for you, or are there just too many downsides to the profession? In this post, we'll break it all down, so you can decide for yourself!

Cosmetologists have an extremely wide range of income, and there are numerous factors that play into how much you'll actually get paid. On average, however, cosmetologists make around $24,830 annually.

Nail techs, who are listed separately by the Bureau of Labor Statistics, fare a little worse, making a median salary of $24,330.

Though many cosmetologists also rely on tips and commissions to increase their income, it can be tough to get the ball rolling on these elements at first.

Even once you're established and earning tips from regular customers and making sales regularly, you still have to be prepared for slow periods where you have fewer customers, fewer tips, or if you sell fewer products. And this is especially true if you decide to run your own business.

Speaking of running your own business, keep in mind that if you work as an entrepreneur or part-time as a cosmetologist, you won't receive benefits. This means paying for your own healthcare, and possibly being less able to afford time off.

Business owners also have to set aside more in taxes, because an employer isn't withholding them from you. You'll be in charge of paying state and federal taxes (generally quarterly as opposed to annually), which can be confusing for some (most) people.

You may opt to hire a certified public accountant, which is great for ensuring you're filing all the necessary paperwork in the correct way and on time. However, CPAs can be expensive, and an added expense might not be feasible for everyone.

Cosmetologists tend to work long hours - at least 8 hours per day, including evenings and weekends.

Your busiest times will probably line up with the average person's down time. For example, most people work a 9-5 job, so you'll have an influx of clients either before 9:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m. You might also see many customers on the weekends.

The busy times in your work may also be the busy times in your life. For example, when everybody wants back-to-school haircuts for their kids, or when people want to look nice to see their family over the holidays, you might have to sacrifice time with your friends and family in order to satisfy your clients' needs.

As it's a low-paying career, you might also find yourself working a ton to keep up with your expenses. This is especially likely at the beginning of your career.

Difficult Customers

As with any customer service profession, cosmetologists are dealing with different people day in and day out. You're bound to have some difficult customers along the way!

Customers might range from the simply annoying to the downright rude. You could find yourself spending a ton of time around a customer you don't like in order to pay the bills.

You also won't be able to make everyone happy! Some customers may not know what they want, or are unable to explain themselves adequately. You might do everything that they ask you to do, but in the end, the still might not be satisfied.

You may also mess up from time to time - mistakes can happen, we're all human, and nobody's perfect! Even with that said, accidentally cutting 5 inches instead of .5 inches off of someone's hair might (understandably) make someone upset, and some mistakes you can't simply undo.

Customers who aren't satisfied with the service you provide - for whatever reason - may become frustrated or angry. They might demand that your service be complimentary, cause a (nasty) scene, spread a bad word around town, or all three!

You'll need to have savvy people skills and a lot of patience. You might even find yourself giving away free gift cards or complimentary products just to calm down an ugly situation. All of that means more money out of your pocket (and not to mention a bad day).

Negative Health Effects

Work as a cosmetologist is hard on your back, legs, and feet. It requires standing for long hours, and without breaks, this can be tough on your body over time.

Cosmetologists also use chemicals and dyes in their daily work. These chemicals include things like nitrosamines and formaldehyde. Formaldehyde has been proven to cause harm to the female reproductive organs as well as a whole host of other problems.

And that's just two. Chemicals found in hair dyes, nail polishes, and other hair care products can be problematic for your skin, eyes, or lungs. Negative health effects can also become even more troublesome if you are or become pregnant.

It's imperative to always use adequate protection, like gloves, when working with such chemicals. And you should always have a well-ventilated work space!
Related Read: Cosmetology when pregnant: what you need to know to stay safe
Is It Better to be A Barber than a Cosmetologist?

If you are interested in hair and only hair, becoming a barber might be the best career move for you. Here are some key differences between barbers and cosmetologists:

Barbers are not licensed to care for skin or nails.

Cosmetologists cannot shave hair with a razor or straight razor (which is why more men go to barbers)!

Barbers have a greater salary than cosmetologists, with a median salary of $27,960.

Essentially, barbers can do all things hair, plus some things that cosmetologists can't do. Cosmetologists are licensed for a wider array of services, including skin and nail services.

It's also important to remember that barbers and cosmetologists are not the same license, they are separate. While it's easy to take a crossover course and get a dual license, their scope of practice is not the same.

It's also worth remembering that a lot of the disadvantages associated with being a cosmetologist will be the same as with being a barber, perhaps with the exception of a low salary (it all depends on your financial needs).

Is It Better to be An Esthetician than a Cosmetologist?
Related Read: Can a cosmetologist become a barber?
Those who are very interested in skincare might look into becoming an esthetician, rather than a cosmetologist. What makes these careers different?

In summary, licensed cosmetologists can perform a variety of hair, nail, and skin services; while those holding only an esthetician license can only perform skincare services.

In most states in the U.S., you can work as an esthetician with a cosmetology license. As always, some states differ, so double check with your state board to make sure the services you're providing are in line with your legally allowed scope of practice.

As with barbering, the disadvantages that come with cosmetology will be extremely similar to those involved in esthetician work as well.

Is Being a Cosmetologist Right for Me?

People who succeed as cosmetologists tend to be friendly, business-minded, and hard-working. They have a passion for the beauty industry and love to make others feel better about themselves. They're also great at handling difficult situations and working well under pressure.

If this sounds like you, a career as a cosmetologist might be a perfect fit!

Every profession has its drawbacks, and cosmetology can be particularly tough when you're just starting out. Knowing this before you start means you won't be blindsided by difficulties later on.

Being aware of the disadvantages means you can plan accordingly and make sure your passion for the subject carries you through!
Related Read: Top 10 reasons to pursue a career in cosmetology
If you want a more in-depth look at the bad (and the good!) of being a cosmetologist, check out this video:
Already in school? Take our free cosmetologist practice exam to see if you're ready for your exam!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The Disadvantages of Being a Cosmetologist - CPT Guru

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
On the surface, cosmetology seems like a great career! But it can also be tough, especially for those just starting out. Some of the disadvantages of being a cosmetologist are low salary, long hours, and difficult customers.

# data[].attributes.body
More specifically, the makeup side of the beauty industry does not create an inclusive environment. It is common knowledge that when companies release new foundation and concealer lines, they are released in a variety of skin colors ranging from a very fair white color, to a very deep dark color. Although there are color options for African Americans to use, most makeup shade ranges favor people with lighter skin

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
I, Madam C.J Walker, have fought for too long in the battle of ending racism in the beauty industry. Throughout my life, I have help black women find comfort in our beauty differences, but to now witness the same racism nearly a century later, I am convinced that if we don't end racism in the beauty industry soon, it will continue to be a problem in our society.

My credentials on this issue come from my long and intensive background in the black beauty industry. After marrying my husband Charles Walker, I began to market myself as an independent retailer of cosmetics and a hairdresser. I was lucky enough to have a very supporting husband who wanted to help me grow my name and brand. Additionally, my daughter was also a great apprentice to my growing business. During this time, my husband would leave our home of Denver, Colorado and visit southern and eastern states to reach other consumers interested in my products, while my daughter and I would stay in Denver to work at home. In 1908, my family and I moved to Pittsburg, Pennsylvania where I had the amazing opportunity of opening a beauty parlor. Two years later Charles and I got a divorced, I then relocated my daughter and I to Indianapolis and opened the headquarters of Madam C.J. Walker Manufacturing Company where I designed many beauty products such as, shampoo and pomade. In the years following, I hit the peak of my career by employing thousands of women and "showing other black women how to budget, build their own businesses, and encouraged them to become financially independent" (Wikipedia). With this, I was not only devoted to the success of my business, but I was also devoted to addressing political, economic and social issues that many black women face by contributing my wealth to help end these issues. Additionally, I have been able to work with many influential people such as, Brooker T. Washington and W.E.B Du Bois within many powerful black institutions. My passion for equality for African Americans also allowed me to join the New York chapter executive committee of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP). Overall, with my experience and credentials, I have found the issue of racism in the beauty industry to be not tolerated especially after devoting a large part of my life to help fight against the issue.

With the recent expansion of the beauty industry in our society, I, Madam C.J Walker have noticed a strong increase in racism in the beauty industry. While there are many beauty companies that support black beauty and stand for equality in the industry; the beauty industry is racist and reveals many underlying racial issues. To start, many geographic regions idolize whiteness in beauty. With this, many beauty companies have the face of their company be someone who can represent the "standard" of beauty. This standard often includes people with fair white skin, colorful eyes, and perfect long natural hair. The main issue that stems from this "standard" of beauty is that African Americans are not able to represent the standard which then leads to them not being able to celebrate their beauty differences. I believe that beauty companies should not allow this kind of hate and discrimination in the industry. The industry needs to become more proactive in creating a space where all forms of beauty are welcome.

More specifically, the makeup side of the beauty industry does not create an inclusive environment. It is common knowledge that when companies release new foundation and concealer lines, they are released in a variety of skin colors ranging from a very fair white color, to a very deep dark color. Although there are color options for African Americans to use, most makeup shade ranges favor people with lighter skin. One way that the makeup industry favors lighter and whiter skin is by offering them many shades that fit their shade range, this instance is proven by, "a white person can easily buy a foundation for their natural skin color, their skin color after a tanning session and their skin in the winter very easily and usually all in the same line of products. However, people with darker skin usually get four or five shades to choose from for their makeup" (Emily Nichelle Wolfe). In addition, to limited shade ranges, I have also noticed that products such as bronzers and blushes are often produced in order to favor people with more fair and light skin. Since these products are made to have a lighter pigmentation of color, they are less likely to properly show on people with darker and deeper completions. The lack of pigmentation in these products often leads to women with darker complexion to avoid these the use of these products due to the exclusive environment that these products create. Moreover, from my experience in the beauty industry, one way to reduce the racial discrimination in the makeup industry is by having companies contribute a stronger effort in creating products that are inclusive to people with darker and deeper complexations. If companies do not do this, inequality in the industry will continue and darker complexation people will feel less and less worthy as time goes on.

....

In addition to the makeup industry having an inclusive environment, the same instances of inequality can be seen in the hair industry. Being someone who has worked with African American hair my while life, I know the differences and challenges that African Americans faces by not having "normal" hair. I am guilty to admit that I made products in Madam C.J. Walker Manufacturing Company that were meant to, "straighten black hair as a way to help black women get ahead in society by fitting in aesthetically" (Areva Martin). But I am now aware that we should be able to display and celebrate our hair differences; not hide them. Moreover, there are many instances that I have witnessed where black hairstyles have been frowned upon on our society. For example, in early 2014 the United States army created a new policy that essentially banned African American hairstyles such as, dreadlocks and cornrows. These hairstyles were banned because many people viewed them as non-professional and matted. Many people inside and outside of the U.S army were angry about this new policy because it was racist and exclusive. Luckily, after many months of backlash the policy was rolled back. Another instance of racism within the hair industry comes from more specifically hair salons and stylist. In the hair industry it is common to see a "segregation of hair." This essentially means that people with more textured hair, such as waving or curly hair are more likely to receive a lack of service from hair salons and stylist. This issue stems from the lack of education on textured hair that is taught in cosmetology school. In relation to this, celebrity hairstylist Tippi Shorter states that, "You really only learn how to do the bare minimum... I went to school for 1,600 hours, and we probably spent about five of those hours working on hair that wasn't naturally straight. So as a stylist, you come out with very basic knowledge, and it's not a culture that speaks to texture because their whole philosophy is about making hair straight" (Lauren Valenti). The lack of knowledge that is taught in cosmetology school is feeding the inequality in the hair industry. This leads to black women having horrible experiences in salons that have stylist who are terrified to work with textured hair, and don't even know here to begin of the opportunity reached them. To overcome this issue, I believe that current students in cosmetology school need to be taught more about how to work with textured hair. By doing this, the hair industry would be able to close the gap of inequality and abolish the "segregation of hair" that so many African Americans have experienced from salons and stylists.

In relation to the discrimination that African Americans face in the makeup and hair industry, I have seen discrimination within the shopping experiences of beauty items. Many African Americans have expressed how there is inequality in beauty items that they purchase and how these items have an effect on racial stereotypes. When going to the store to purchase razors, deodorant, shampoo, and other hygiene items, it is very obvious that the security of the products is different based on if the product is marketed towards African Americans or if the product is marketed towards other races. Society should not let companies' market simple items, such as beauty and hygiene products, at such different security levels due to one version being meant for white people and the other for African Americans. This results in African Americans being more criticized when buying beauty products which is unfair when people of other races do not face the same type of public humility. This example racism contributes to society stereotyping African American as criminals. With the instance of an increase use of security on beauty products meant for African Americans; we as a society are continuing to expand the gap of inequality between white and black people. One way I believe that we can overcome this issue is to experiment in other forms of security that will protect a stores beauty products. For example, if stores and brands are worried about people stealing their products, they should have proper security on all items, not just items that are marketed towards African Americans. Additionally, stores could also employ security guards to protect the beauty products and stop criminals of all races not just one in particular. Overall, I believe that there are many ways in which we can decrease racism within the beauty industry that is present during the shopping experience of beauty items.

Throughout my life, I was lucky enough to have been able to help the African American beauty industry grow and flourish. But unfortunately, the racial discrimination in the beauty industry is an issue in today's society. With the inequality within the makeup industry, it makes it much harder for African Americans to enjoy using makeup, follow trends and participate in social influences. Additionally, there are many issues within the hair industry that need to be resolved in order to end the segregation of hair types. I believe that hair stylist must be better trained on textured hair in order to create a more welcoming and better experience for African Americans with non-straight hair. Moreover, the discrimination experienced when shopping for beauty products must stop in order to end the criminal stereotype against African Americans. All in all, with my credentials and experience, I am convinced that if we don't end racism in the beauty industry soon, it will continue to be a problem in our society.

"Madam C. J. Walker." Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 18 May 2021, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madam_C._J._Walker.

Martin, Areva. "Black Hair Discrimination Can Harm Black Women and Men." Time, Time, 23 Aug. 2017, time.com/4909898/black-hair-discrimination-ignorance/.

Nichelle Wolfe, Emily. "COMMENTARY: Racism in the Beauty Industry Needs to End." UHCL The Signal, 22 July 2020, www.uhclthesignal.com/wordpress/2020/07/21/commentary-racism-in-the-beauty-industry-needs-to-end/.

Valenti, Lauren. "The Hairstyling Industry Has a Racism Problem, and It Starts With Beauty School." Vogue, 8 July 2020, www.vogue.com/article/hairstyling-industry-racism-bias-beauty-cosmetology-school-salons-red-carpet.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Racism in the Beauty Industry- Evan L. Hodder - USD Sites

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
I, Madam C.J Walker, have fought for too long in the battle of ending racism in the beauty industry. Throughout my life, I have help black women find comfort in our beauty differences, but to now witness the same racism nearly a century later, I am convinced that if we don't end racism in the [...]

# data[].attributes.body
There’s a huge divide between the diversity and skill sets available in salons, which results in different hair types going to different salons. Black hairdressers typically have the skillset to cater to all hair types, whereas white hairdressers don’t learn how to work with afro hair. Predominantly white salons should be able to provide hair services to all people, regardless of race.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Rob Czlapka, the head stylist and owner of Manchester-based shares his steps to becoming an inclusive salon for all. What seems to be at the root of the issue?
There is still a long way to go to eliminate racism both across the globe and nationally around the UK, and the beauty industry is amongst those failing black men and women. A Nielsen study reported that Blacks spend nearly nine times more than their non-Black counterparts on ethnic hair and beauty products. Yet they are rarely given a space in ownership and leadership in those proportions. The disparity between communities and the ability for the hair industry to accommodate their needs is staggering. A study by Habia found there are more than 35,000 hair salons in the UK, but only 302 cater to afro hair.

The main issue at hand is the education - or lack there of. There are four hair types you can be trained to work with during hairdressing training, but you're only given the option to work with three of these. In my experience, white students were encouraged to disregard afro style hair by lecturers as this isn't a hair type often worked with in predominantly white salons. They instead focused on straight, wavy, and curly hair types.
What can you to do create change and become a more inclusive salon?

1. Be inclusive in your hiring

We're currently pushing for change in the hairdressing industry. We've been hiring people with the skill sets to work with and style afro hair across all levels of seniority in the business, and are investing in training so that all of our stylists are fully equipped to work with all hair types.

2. Offer further education

We're also investing in anti-racism training, to further ensure our salon is a safe space for people of colour. This has been followed up with training to ensure best practice stays in place, and micro-aggression management so individuals know how to handle situations.

In 2015, hairdressing academies added black hair styling to the course in an attempt to solve this issue, but only dedicated 12 weeks of a two-year NVQ Level 2 hairdressing course to afro hair. There are now talks of all four hair types becoming integrated into the course, which would be a huge step towards challenging the issue of racism within the hairdressing industry.

There's a huge divide between the diversity and skill sets available in salons, which results in different hair types going to different salons. Black hairdressers typically have the skillset to cater to all hair types, whereas white hairdressers don't learn how to work with afro hair. Predominantly white salons should be able to provide hair services to all people, regardless of race.

Within the next year, I want a completely mixed background of collaborators at RCNQ with the full skills to cater to any person's needs. We're striving to include anyone in the experience that we offer, and other salons need to do the same. To support the black community we are offering free protective styling for afro hair and 50% off braiding every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday for the month of June. The free styling includes two strand twists, flat twists, bantu knots and more.

Furthermore, 10% of profits from all appointments in June are being donated to the Black United Representation Network (BURN). The organisation strives to create systematic change by advising black-owned businesses in Greater Manchester, and increasing the number of black leaders in senior decision-making roles. They focus on levelling up black-owned businesses in the region and have teamed up with Be The Business to offer the Advisory Board programme, where a board of highly experienced advisors offer support to Black-Led businesses, over a 12 month period free of charge.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Tackling the Inherent Racism in the Hair Industry - PBL Magazine

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Rob Czlapka, the head stylist and owner of Manchester-based shares his steps to becoming an inclusive salon for all. What seems to be at the root of the issue? There is still a long way to go to eliminate racism both across the globe and nationally around the UK, and the beauty industry is amongst those failing black men and women.

# data[].attributes.body
https://www.colorado.edu/honorsjournal/sites/default/files/attached-files/morgan_fromwhitetoverywhite.pdf

# data[].attributes.body
Hair texture can be cause for both glory and trauma, but the cultural division and stigma associated with highly textured hair still cause far too much of the latter. In some cases, sitting in a salon chair can be uncomfortable, but it can also be a harrowing experience filled with shame and lasting physical and emotional damage.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The rest of the country has (at least officially) been desegregated, but salons remain largely separated. Educators, hairstylists, and clients weigh in on the pros and cons of it staying that way.

Many people have never had a hard time finding a hairstylist. Indeed, there's a large swath of the population that has never seen a hair appointment as anything other than a blissful experience, with the exception of the occasional bad cut.

But for some - predominantly women with highly textured hair, who tend to be Black and brown - the salon experience can feel racially divided and unwelcoming. Historically, hair has been, as with many things, viewed in terms of Black and white: A sleeker texture was thought to be the domain of "white" hair, while kinks and curls - aka highly textured hair - was seen as "Black." Salons and hair-care brands emerged to serve each clientele and, even though the rest of the country has (at least officially) been desegregated, salons nationwide have remained widely separated by this distinction in client hair types.

Products are also largely segregated: Ethnic hair care often appears on smaller sections of shelving toward the back of drugstores, while products for so-called white hair are given prominent expanses of shelving in the hair-care section. In some stores, the former category of products is sometimes locked in a glass case, a practice that, in 2020, Walmart, CVS, and Walgreens vowed to end as many companies reevaluated their practices amid heightened focus on the Black Lives Matter movement and worldwide protests against racial discrimination.

Hair texture can be cause for both glory and trauma, but the cultural division and stigma associated with highly textured hair still cause far too much of the latter. In some cases, sitting in a salon chair can be uncomfortable, but it can also be a harrowing experience filled with shame and lasting physical and emotional damage. This goes far beyond the memory of bad bangs. The emotional scar tissue borne of being told your hair is "unruly" or "too much work" can run deep, and so can intense societal pressure to straighten or chemically alter one's natural texture. As a woman of color with highly textured hair, I've had my own upsetting experiences. I've felt pressure to straighten my hair. I've had breakage and weeping chemical burns. I have felt the fear in the hands of those who seem wary to even touch my hair, and the malevolence of those who want to apply far too aggressive tactics to "handle" it.

Recently, there have been calls for more universal knowledge among hairstylists. Many people, including activist and speaker Rachel Cargle, have shared details of their negative salon experiences. Multiple articles have been written calling for hairstylists to have more well-rounded experience and skills. This begs one of the great questions facing the beauty industry today: Should all hairstylists be able to style all types of hair?

Hair Is a Fiber With Texture, Not Always an Indicator of Ethnicity

First, let's backtrack to the basics of what hair is. The natural-hair movement, which started in the tumultuous 1960s and had a massive resurgence in the early 2000s, has changed the game for people with textured hair. The goal of the movement is to ensure that those with curls, kinks, and waves no longer feel confined to a singular standard of beauty for straightened, sleek hair. The market has felt the impact of the change: According to a Nielsen study, in 2017, African Americans spent $54 million of the $63 million total industry spending in the ethnic hair and beauty category, and $473 million in total hair care, a $4.2 billion market. The beauty industry is gaining a wider understanding of the multiethnic market of Jewish, Oceanic, and Southeast Asian people with textured hair. The world is no longer Black and white; it's multiracial. And more and more people are coming to the understanding echoed by all the experts interviewed for this article: Hair should be treated as a fiber, not an ethnicity.

All hair has its own specific density (the number of strands per follicle), porosity, and texture, mostly due to genetics. Hair is a fiber, akin to silk or cotton. Any designer or dressmaker will confirm that the techniques used to manipulate these materials vary greatly. If you try to treat these materials the same way, you'll most likely damage some of the fabric and get a disastrous outcome. Hairstyling is no different. You must understand the texture to bring out the glory of the fiber itself.

Looking at hair as a fiber with different textures has expanded the world of hairstyling and hair education and led to an increased awareness of the need for more skill development, new protocols, and updated language about hair. It's not about Black hair and white hair; it's straight, kinky, and everything in between. The craft of styling hair is not about race; it's a matter of texture, technique, and experience - all of which start with education.

The Hair Educators

When it comes to a universal approach to hairstyling, many hair educators are taking marked steps to address the needs of the ever-evolving marketplace. Cosmetology programs across the country, whether larger institutions or local beauty schools, have started to address the need for more education with highly textured hair.

A spokesperson for Aveda Institutes says the company always featured texture as part of its curriculum where stylists had some level of experience with multiple types. But in 2012, the company designed a more formal curriculum around textured hair, with a goal to eventually take a more holistic approach to highly textured hair. In 2019, the Aveda Global Artistic Team for Texture, a five-person group comprised of Aveda network stylists, led by Renee Gadar, global artistic director, texture, for Aveda, was created to update the company's current texture curriculum. In the summer of 2020, Aveda released its expanded, comprehensive texture-education program to Aveda Institutes, partner salons, and Aveda stores. It includes robust training for cut, style, color, care, and, importantly, culture for textured manes and the clients who possess them.

Gadar says the opportunity to expand learning around highly textured hair has been a watershed moment for so many students. "[When] I'm on the ground teaching classes, students would DM me [about] how revolutionary it has been for them, especially people of color," she shares enthusiastically. "Any time the instruction is being taught, the cultural aspect is heavily in there, interwoven in the technical part of the education, and tears are always coming because there's a lot of baggage when it comes to highly textured hair. When you start pressing those buttons, tears come about. I feel like the curriculum is bringing real healing to people."

Gadar's counterpart, Kevin Molin, vice president of Aveda Global Education, adds: "Most salons specialize. If you are a cut specialist, you should be able to cut every hair type and texture. If you are a color specialist, you should be able to color every hair type and texture equally as well. I do believe having that element of a texture specialist adds another layer of continuous learning to the process, so that you've got to continue to build skills. But I fundamentally believe that, yes, all stylists should be able to do all hair types and textures."

One of the conversations happening at Aveda, and in many other places, is about the concept of "hair deserts": places where no salon exists for miles for any hair texture other than straight and smooth, or salons exist but the staff have limited or no experience working on kinky or curly hair. "We don't believe hair deserts should exist," says Gadar. "We acknowledge that hair deserts exist. We acknowledge our curriculum didn't always have [texture as it does now], and many cosmetology schools and institutes around the United States never really engaged the texture conversation or curriculum quite this way. But we're in progress and changing to recognize the need. We're putting some really great minds together to make sure we shrink those gaps and start to eliminate those deserts, especially in the Aveda network."

But training hairstylists to work with multiple textures is not limited to the sizable Aveda network; beauty schools in markets across the country are working hard to educate students on all textures of hair. Catherine Morrow, senior program coordinator for Central Piedmont Community College in Charlotte, North Carolina, translated a 34-year career in the industry - including a 15-year stint as owner of a full-service salon in Charlotte - into the creation of a comprehensive cosmetology program, featuring a 16-week certification in natural-hair care. Students gain exposure to all hair textures during training, she says, particularly when styling clients from the general public.

"I'll tell you what's happening around the world: There's not one texture or race," says Morrow. "Natural hair is beautiful and every texture is different. Knowing how to care for it is a big, popular industry; it generates income and walk-in services." She's even seen some hairstylists who had been trained to alter textured hair come back for more education. "A lot of hairstylists, like myself, from the old school, [who were trained] to remove the natural texture of hair with chemicals or heat styling have had to transition away from that to stay relevant in the industry."

Corinthian Carouthers II, cofounder of and coeducator at Creative Hair School of Cosmetology in Flint, Michigan, agrees. The school offers a 1,500-hour cosmetology program and an 800-hour natural-hair certification. She feels passionately about hairstyling becoming universal, and acknowledges that many will have to overcome a fear of unfamiliar textures. "Some [hairstylists] are very intimidated because it's not easy, right?" she points out. "But once you know how to work with it, you'd be surprised at the creativity; the hair is much more diverse in styling. When students have that specific training with textured hair, they're more successful. Their clients are happier with the results. It just makes a huge difference."

Anthony Civitano, the executive director of the American Association of Cosmetology Schools, believes in the power of what the industry is trying to achieve, especially with regard to universal hairstyling. "This is a hot topic in the world right now," Civitano says. "With all of the social things going on, the beauty industry has come under fire a little bit lately. [Hairstylists in the industry] decided a long time ago that it's not about ethnicity; it's about hair type, skin type - we're all made up of proteins. The beauty industry has done a very good job without even realizing the social aspect. The beauty industry isn't about labels, as funny as that might sound. It's not about Black or white; it's about how to make this craft better and learn from each other."

Product companies have also taken a cue from the market. Luxury hair-care brand Oribe has recently developed a product line for highly textured hair as part of its Moisture & Control collection. The company has also created Cue the Curls, a stylist training program led by brand ambassador Stacey Ciceron, who says: "I'm really passionate about education and finding a way for people to learn something so complex and make it so easy." Ciceron, a 20-year veteran in the industry, was overwhelmed by the response as the program sold out and students of all races and backgrounds signed up to advance their skills and knowledge with textured hair. "We talk about consultations, we even talk about the mindset of the stylist and the community itself, especially in these times [of] racial unrest. People are just stepping up and wanting to do their due diligence to be more inclusive, to be more diverse."

"If you are a cut specialist, you should be able to cut every hair type and texture. If you are a color specialist, you should be able to color every hair type and texture."

Rachel Redd, a brand ambassador and educator for Redken's partnership with Mizani, a well-known product leader in textured-hair care and styling, agrees that it's important for hairstylists to be able to handle multiple textures, especially from a business perspective. "As [we] become even more diverse, more than likely you're going to have a textured client come see you, if not visit your social media profile," Redd says. "If you go on social media these days, it's about texture and diversity, so it's important to evolve."

The Hairstylists

One of the things that struck me most when I left New York for a much smaller city was how hard it was to find a hairstylist who understood my hair texture. After two disastrous trials, I found Kelly Clark, owner of Hey Girl Hair and Beauty in Charleston, West Virginia. When asked about her ability to work with all hair types, she says that a passion to succeed as a stylist and business owner is key to one's desire to learn: "You never know who's going to come to your doorstep. Charleston is such a transient city with a lot of people coming through, so I have clients who pass through. They don't care what color I am - nor do I care what color they are because money is green. But I had the desire to know how to do everyone's hair." Clark acknowledges that many stylists in local salons don't know how to handle multiple textures. "It's fear of the unknown or messing someone's hair up," she explains. "It's also a lack of experience; they've never had to do 'their' hair because of their location or because of preconceived notions. Then sometimes it just comes up as racism: 'I'm not doing their hair.'"

Even when discussing hair as a texture more than an ethnicity, some stylists don't want to be told they have to do everything. Lisa Monda, a 30-year veteran hairstylist who works at Maverick West in San Francisco, has spent years learning to handle all textures of hair from cut to color and countless hours studying with experts of all backgrounds. As fearless as Monda is with multiple textures and expanding her education, she doesn't believe all stylists should be pushed to style universally. "It's like you go to college and pick your major; you focus on that major," she explains, adding that even as a stylist there are some things in her craft she prefers not to do, like wedding hair. "I love watching it, but I don't actually have any kind of a passion or natural talent to do [it], so I don't - and that's my right as a hairdresser to say no."

"There's been a big push in hair these days that's really exciting, celebrating women of all cultures and textures of hair," Monda says. But she also recognizes that passion for styling multiple textures may not exist for everyone.

There's a flip side for the client when stylists feel forced to work beyond their comfort or skill level, says Monda. "I don't think anybody should try to [force others to] conform. I see that happen a lot too, [when] they don't feel comfortable, so now they're talking that client with curly hair into blowing it out. I don't like that. Because you didn't feel comfortable working with that natural texture, because it scared you, because you didn't know what you were doing, you just talked them into doing something that they don't really want to do."

Instead, she believes, a stylist should know when to refer clients. "I know my limits. I know I can do some [textured] hair, but can I do all of it? No, and I'm not going to tell you I can when I can't," Monda says. "I think that's really important. I don't have ego when working with clients; I work with what's realistic in my toolbox. If I don't feel that I'm the right person for the job, I have so many amazing hairdressers to whom I can refer you. I'm not so worried about making money; I'm worried about people being happy, and in return, prosperity comes because of it."

The referrals Monda talks about have long been important for women with textured hair. As hair salons have traditionally been divided along racial and cultural lines, so have the skills to handle those hair textures. Those who may have stepped outside barriers might have had less-than-ideal experiences, which means individuals with textured hair tend to go by recommendation before they try a new hairstylist.

New York City-based colorist Rachel Bodt works with all textures of hair, and has a diverse book of clients that includes members of the general public, models Jourdana Elizabeth and Adesewa, and other notables, like Beyoncé (Bodt dyed all the wigs used for Beyoncé's December 2020 British Vogue cover shoot). She appreciates the importance of cultural sensitivity when working with new, highly textured clients, having experienced some misunderstanding herself. "I think there's something about bedside manner, really listening, hearing the issues, and reassuring them they won't have those issues here," Bodt says. Her clients of color tend to send their friends to her, and she takes extra time to assuage fears or concerns. "I think when someone's a referral, it helps because they've seen your work. I also make sure, especially with new clients, I give myself a little bit of extra time. It's really my job to make sure someone's comfortable."

Takisha Sturdivant-Drew, a celebrity hairstylist and owner of TSD Hair, is adept with all textures and has worked with a client book that includes Ashley Graham, Lucy Liu, Kerry Washington, and Gabrielle Union. Sturdivant-Drew says that even though skills should be universal, there's still some trepidation among clients of color to cross the divide. "[Some] definitely want to go with someone of color. People are now learning because it's become a big deal," she says. "Believe me, clients know when a person doesn't know how to do their hair." Many stylists are taking it upon themselves to learn to handle highly textured hair, she adds. "I think they're trying their best, but sometimes it's just overwhelming; it's a lot of hair, and if you don't know what to do... But some people are definitely learning, especially a lot of new people assisting me are learning how to do textured or kinky hair, which is a good thing."

Rodney Cutler, owner of Cutler Salons and a Redken brand ambassador, agrees that the divide will close as more stylists expand their horizons and believes that barriers will break as more stylists adept with multiple hair textures arrive in local salons. "It's going to take a generation or two for cosmetology students to get into the salons and influence things," Cutler says. "These immediate educational opportunities are great, but is that the ultimate solution? No. But I think it's something that can have immediate impact. We're heading in the right direction."

The Clients

Inevitably, all of these things directly impact the client, the most important person in this discussion. Women who have a hair texture that is seen as "difficult," a subjective term, have had varied experiences with hairstylists throughout their lives, and have definitive opinions on this subject.

Jasmine Nesi, a marketer in Greensboro, North Carolina, and a woman of color, has traditionally gone to Black women to handle her natural curls. She recalls an instance when she was living in Washington, DC, post-college, and she went to a beauty school to get her hair done and a white student did her blowout. "When she put me in the sink, she made a comment like, 'Oh, I haven't worked with textured hair before.' That immediately put me off," Nesi recalls. "It's like, you're already a new hairstylist; there's always a little bit of apprehension because hair is incredibly important. So to hear her say that, I was put on guard for what was going to happen next. It just kept going downhill: She didn't know she needed to comb my hair before she blow-dried it; she didn't have the flatiron heat up high enough to actually straighten my hair. I made eye contact with a few of the Black hairstylists there. I don't even know what my face looked like, but I know it wasn't good." She adds, "It was unfortunate. I felt like she just didn't have any experience at all to know the basic principles. It really left a bad taste in my mouth."

When asked about the concept of universal hairstyling, Nesi agrees that all stylists should have some level of training and skill with all hair textures, but would she ever entertain the concept of going to a stylist outside of her culture? She hesitates before answering. "At the end of the day, I just need a good result," she says. "I think the value in going to a Black woman is they know how important hair is to us. I feel like I've had more conversations with Black women in their chair about that plight, maybe. I don't know. I feel a little bit more emotionally connected that they get it. It's more than just education; [it's] that true girlfriend talk with a stranger." Nesi continues, making another point about versatility and training for stylists: "The thing is, Black women have to know how to do everything, and white women don't, and that's not fair. So yes, I agree that all folks should know how to do all types of hair."

Dorcas*, an executive living in Greensboro, North Carolina, and another woman of color, has moved across the country more than a dozen times and has heartbreaking stories - including instances of chemical burns, which resulted in dramatic haircuts and scalp damage - of trying to find hairstylists who could handle her highly textured hair. "It's been very challenging, because I think when you go into a salon that caters to white folks and you have a stylist with the belief she's had enough training to do Black hair, you trust your precious locks with someone that has given you a convincing argument or persuaded you that they know how to do this type of hair," says Dorcas. She recalls a relaxer that was left on too long by a white stylist, which caused damage and required a haircut. "I've chopped my hair off quite a bit over the years because of experiences I've had with stylists that don't have the skill set to do this type of hair." She wound up doing her own hair between moves because it was so complicated to find someone to do it correctly.

Dorcas agrees with the concept of universal hairstyling, adding that clients may also need to stand up for themselves. "We are a diverse culture and we know there's all types of hair. It seems to me that hair salon owners should make an effort to have diversity within their shop to accommodate the customers visiting their shop, as opposed to still having the same footprint of stylists," she says. "It would be wonderful. The other piece of it is that the clients need to be a bit more vocal. Most of us just have a bad experience and never come back."

One of the most critical issues in hairstyling, which rarely gets mentioned in the conversation about the impact of implicit bias and lack of education with texture, involves children with textured hair and their parents. Carol*, a white mother who works full-time in Denver, Colorado, has an adopted daughter who is Black. Ensuring her child has the proper hair care has required a tremendous effort. "It was a little while before we got her first haircut, and I did a lot of research," Carol says. "You know, there are a lot of places that do kids haircuts and they have fun cars or princess chairs and extra things that make it easier for kids. I wanted to be able to do a place like that, but also that had some experience cutting Black hair. I ended up not going with some of the more well-known places. I called every place and said, 'Do you have people that do Black hair?' One salon said they did." She recalls further, "[We] actually had a good experience. The salon didn't have all the fun tricks and bells and whistles, but we had a fine experience. It wasn't a historically Black salon; it was a small neighborhood salon in a mixed neighborhood and they did a good job being accessible to lots of people."

"Black women have to know how to do everything, and white women don't, and that's not fair."

When asked if her daughter knows her hair is different from her mother's, Carol says yes, but she's working hard to make sure her child doesn't have any negative associations with her hair texture. "Her hair is more likely to get tangled more quickly; it just is harder and more painful to get it done. So, she may have negative connotations," Carol explains. "I do think sometimes when she would have it out, which is very rare these days, or even have it in plaits where she can see the texture, I do think there was maybe some pride there. Her white classmates thought it was cool. Now she likes having the braids because it makes it longer and straighter. She can flip her hair around and that's fun for her."

Does Carol wish for universal hairstyling so she and her daughter can go to the same salon? "It would be nice," she says. "I feel like these days there are so many different types of textures of hair because there's so many more mixed people than before. If all you know how to do is white, European hair, then you're not going to be able to do very much hair at some point in a bigger city, certainly, or a medium city. You have to have some awareness that hair texture is different."

Sarajha Davis, a biracial teacher in Charleston, West Virginia, is raising three children with her Black husband. Their youngest is six-year-old Scarlett. Through the years, Davis has had experiences when salons were too aggressive with her own 3A curls, bleaching and heat styling her hair into breakage. Recently finding a local stylist has transformed not just Davis's relationship with her natural curls, but has helped Scarlett's hair as well. "The first time [my daughter] had her hair professionally touched was this summer [when] I trusted my beautician, Tonya Wilson, with her hair," Davis recalls. "She took very delicate care of Scarlett's hair. I was very nervous to let anybody do anything with her hair, but Tonya did a really good job. We went to her a few times this summer. Scarlett really enjoyed being able to do that, but it took a lot for me to let her sit in that chair. I think that Tonya just understands the fragility of our hair type, and she's very cautious. She talks to me and educates me." Davis continues, "Scarlett's hair texture is totally different than mine, so she really spent some time with me and explained why certain products worked for me but not for Scarlett. I think that's the difference I've seen: She cared enough to take the time to explain to me why I should and shouldn't do certain things."

Davis thinks universal hairstyling would be wonderful but doesn't hold out a lot of hope. "Perfect world? I think any salon should staff someone that has expertise with every hair type. That would be amazing. Do I think that's ever going to happen? Honestly, probably not," she says. "But it would be great if that were a requirement; it would put more diversity in the workplace. I don't know where rules and regulations about those things start, but it would be fantastic if you could just walk into a salon and know there's going to be someone that can deal with your hair texture."

Davis points to the impact generational pressure to conform textured hair to a white, European standard of beauty has on future generations. "I'll be honest, I was doing a lot of straightening and curling my hair because I felt more glamorous and like I looked a little more mature without a head full of curly ringlets," she says. "But about a year ago, Scarlett came to me and said, 'Mommy, I want to have pretty hair with you. I want my hair to be straight.' It was like this moment for me. I said, 'Scarlett, you do have pretty hair. Your curls are beautiful.' I realized that straightening my hair was teaching my daughter that her curls weren't beautiful because I didn't feel that my curls were beautiful. So, we've kinda gone the natural route the last few months. I learned that lesson for my daughter: We have beautiful hair. We really do." Davis says further, "Her hair is beautiful. I want her to know that. [It's] another reason I like to go to the salon we go to; our type of hair is celebrated. I think that's important for little girls like mine."

Ultimately, the industry is evolving when it comes to the concept of hair texture, but as a society we must still find the language to talk to one another about how to proceed and change our preconceived notions and biases. Textured hair isn't solely the domain of Black and brown people, but the majority of the trauma is.

The mainstream hair industry has taken its lead from the natural-hair movement by beginning to break down barriers of race and highly textured hair, providing broader training with multiple textures. But the fact remains, for all that education and goodwill, we still have a long way to go in expanding acceptance and changing the language we use around hair as a texture versus an ethnicity.

There are a great many people working tirelessly in the hair industry - and the beauty industry as a whole - to open doors and make the pursuit of happiness a universal experience. This article is by no means the end of this discussion, but my hope is that it will spark a productive dialogue, one that further breaks down the walls that separate us. If we do this right, future generations will no longer feel confined by antiquated racial bias or pressured to conform in any way. Perhaps someday we will all see hair as just a texture and not ethnicity. Maybe then we will see the pursuit of beauty for what it really is: a universal, shared human experience. We all deserve to feel beautiful in the skin we're in - and with the hair texture we have.
*Name has been changed. Stylist: Charlotte Roberts. Hair: Anna Cofone. Makeup: Chiao Li Hsu. Now read more stories about hair: Done reading? Watch Lacy Redway give advice to aspiring hairstylists:
Kristin Booker is a freelance writer and illustrator. You can follow her on Instagram.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Should Hairstylists Be Trained to Work With All Hair Textures?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The rest of the country has (at least officially) been desegregated, but salons remain largely separated. Educators, hairstylists, and clients weigh in on the pros and cons of it staying that way. Many people have never had a hard time finding a hairstylist.

# data[].attributes.body
The curriculum taught in beauty school is based on two main textbooks: Milady and Pivot Point. These two books have been around for decades and — prior to 2013, the year both were updated — failed to mention any natural hairstyling techniques.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Could 2021 Be the Year That Hairstylists Are Required to Be Well-Versed in Textured Hair?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
“Do you have experience working on curly, textured hair?” “Do you do natural hair?” “Do you have Black hairstylists?”

# data[].attributes.body
Because of their harmful effects, we should make a real commitment to try to overcome our racial stereotypes. This can be achieved by first acknowledging that we’re human and that we do harbor racial stereotypes. Next, we should work to become more aware of our inner thoughts and feelings and how they affect our beliefs and actions. When we have a stereotypical thought about a racial group, we should follow it up with an alternative thought based on factual information that discounts the stereotype.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
What Are Racial Stereotypes?

Racial stereotypes are automatic and exaggerated mental pictures that we hold about all members of a particular racial group. When we stereotype people based on race, we don't take into account individual differences. Because our racial stereotypes are so rigid, we tend to ignore or discard any information that is not consistent with the stereotype that we have developed about the racial group.

How Do We Develop Racial Stereotypes?

We develop our racial stereotypes in a variety of ways. On a very simple level, it's human nature to categorize people. It's our way of making a complex world simpler. From an early age, we learn to place people and objects into categories. However, when we're very young, we tend to put less of an emphasis on attributing values to these categories. As we grow older and are influenced by parents, peers, and the media, our tendency to label different racial groups as superior/good or inferior/bad increases significantly. Additionally, the less contact we have with a particular racial group, the more likely we are to have negative feelings about the group. Any negative experiences that we have with a member of a particular group will strengthen our racial stereotypes and create fears about particular races. Based on our fears, we develop an us-versus-them mentality that tends to be self-protective in nature. As a result, we miss opportunities to learn and thrive from our differences.

Are Our Racial Stereotypes Harmful?

Some people might say, "There's no harm in having racial stereotypes or making racial or ethnic jokes based on stereotypes. People these days are so politically correct and should just loosen up. Anyway, there's always a kernel of truth in every stereotype." In some instances, all of the above might be true. However, in most cases, racial stereotypes are harmful because they ignore the full humanity and uniqueness of all people. When our perceptions of different races are distorted and stereotypical, it's demeaning, devaluing, limiting, and hurtful to others. In some cases, people who are repeatedly labeled in negative ways will begin to develop feelings of inferiority. Sometimes, these feelings of inferiority can lead to self-fulfilling prophecies that perpetuate the stereotype. Racial stereotypes can also foster feelings of hate and aggression that might lead to a false sense of entitlement and superiority. For those individuals who have power, this can lead to their engaging in discriminatory and racist practices.

How Do We Overcome Our Racial Stereotypes?

Because of their harmful effects, we should make a real commitment to try to overcome our racial stereotypes. This can be achieved by first acknowledging that we're human and that we do harbor racial stereotypes. Next, we should work to become more aware of our inner thoughts and feelings and how they affect our beliefs and actions. When we have a stereotypical thought about a racial group, we should follow it up with an alternative thought based on factual information that discounts the stereotype. We can obtain this factual information by leaving our comfort zones and exposing ourselves to people of different races. We should be willing to engage in honest dialogue with others about race that at times might be difficult, risky, and uncomfortable. We should also seek out media portrayals of different races that are realistic and positive. Attending churches, plays, concerts, and movies that celebrate diversity will also broaden our worldview. As we gain more awareness and knowledge about racial groups, not only will our racial stereotypes lessen, but we will also become better equipped to educate and challenge others about their racial stereotypes. As we change ourselves, we can elicit changes in others through our examples and the quality of our conversations. In doing this, we work to create a society in which all races are valued, appreciated, and embraced.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.authors[].name
Marketing Communications: Web // University of Notre Dame

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Overcoming Racial Stereotypes // University Counseling Center // University of Notre Dame

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Racial stereotypes are automatic and exaggerated mental pictures that we hold about all members of a particular racial group. When we stereotype people based on race, we don't take into account individual differences. Because our racial stereotypes are so rigid, we tend to ignore or discard any information that is not consistent with the stereotype that we have developed about the racial group.

# data[].attributes.body
The news that such salons exist shocked my friend because she lives across the country in a small town where blacks and whites typically don’t get their hair styled together. But that’s not just the case in small towns. It’s an historic pattern that plays out nationally.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for The Goods by Vox. You can also see what we're up to by signing up here.
Plenty of couples visit the same hair salons, but our ethnic backgrounds distinguish my husband and me on this front. He's white, and I'm black. And like churches, hair salons in the United States largely remain segregated by race, with few questioning the custom. But in diverse cities such as my home of Los Angeles multiracial salons are slowly cropping up. It's not difficult to find salons with both stylists and clientele from a range of racial backgrounds. The trend has the potential to counter stereotypes, and allows salon owners to expand their businesses and mixed-race families to get their hair coiffed in the same place.
Plenty of couples visit the same hair salons, but our ethnic backgrounds distinguish my husband and me on this front. He's white, and I'm black.
The news that such salons exist shocked my friend because she lives across the country in a small town where blacks and whites typically don't get their hair styled together. But that's not just the case in small towns. It's an historic pattern that plays out nationally. In the 21st century, it's perfectly acceptable for black customers to be turned away from "white" salons or to expect crummy service from them, as Rebecca Carroll pointed out in a 2012 Jezebel piece called "The Blacker the Hair, the Rarer the Cut." A black woman, Carroll struggled to get a decent cut in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, of all places.

As African Americans find themselves marginalized in white salons, traditional black salons have been celebrated, spawning films such as the box office hit Barbershop and its underwhelming knock off Beauty Shop. Reporters so often head to black churches and salons seeking an African American perspective that the practice has become cliché.

While Carroll could have traveled outside of Williamsburg for a haircut, blacks in communities with scant numbers of African Americans may not have that option, leaving them fearful that no area stylist will be able to care for their hair. Having lived in El Paso, Texas; Santa Fe, New Mexico; and Brighton, England; I can relate. However, it was in racially diverse Pasadena, California, a city with plenty of black beauty shops, that I visited my first multiracial salon.

After moving away from the state for a spell, I'd returned to California and was on the hunt for a new hair place. Strolling down a quaint block of Old Town Pasadena, a hair salon, all windows in front, caught my eye. Inside, a black woman and an Asian man styled clients side by side. I stood staring at this uncommon sight a little too long because the woman rushed outside and handed me her card. "Call me," she said, and I did. That was eight years ago.
Inside, a black woman and an Asian man styled clients side by side. I stood staring at this uncommon sight a little too long.
Before then, I'd never heard of a salon where black, Asian, white and Latino hairdressers worked in tandem. I grew up in Chicago primarily visiting black shops, with occasional jaunts to chain salons that featured a single stylist who served African Americans. But these hairdressers didn't always provide a full range of services, such as relaxers, to black patrons, so I opted for black salons.

Thanks to Hollywood, black beauty shops have become the stuff of legend. From watching Barbershop and the like one would think that each visit to a black hair salon guaranteed high drama - raucous political debates, lovers' quarrels, visits from loan sharks. Hell, I'm still waiting for my chance to help a sexy but troubled barber like Michael Ealy (Ricky in Barbershop) spurn the street life.

Leave it to Chris Rock and Wanda Sykes to paint the most accurate picture of my salon-going experience growing up. The comedians paired up on HBO's now defunct Chris Rock Show to perform a skit called "Make You Wait Hair Salon" about a black beauty shop that takes an obscenely long time to serve patrons. The motto, they boast, is "don't make no plans unless you want to break yo' plans." An elderly woman dies waiting for her hair to be styled. Another client sits so long she reads every back issue of Jet magazine, "from when King got shot to when Tupac got shot."

This is hyperbole, of course, but I do have not-so-fond memories of spending entire Saturdays at black beauty shops in Chicago as a teen. No amount of lively discussion and funny banter compensates for that. On the other hand, it's unfair to make generalizations about black salons. After adolescence, I managed to find plenty that served clients in a timely manner. I still patronize black salons on occasion, and a black man owns the multiracial salon I go to now.
[As they work on my hair, I might see a black stylist working on a Latina's hair or an Asian stylist tending to a white woman's tresses. This sight feels revolutionary,
While my current stylist is black, his assistants - who wash, condition and prep my hair for various processes - are not. As they work on my hair, I might see a black stylist working on a Latina's hair or an Asian stylist tending to a white woman's tresses. This sight feels revolutionary, not just because blacks are involved but because everyone else is involved as well. Black hair gets a lot of attention for being "different," but I've had Asian friends who prefer Asian stylists because they doubt others will properly care for their thick and straight manes. In the Latino neighborhood in Northeast L.A. where I live, signs on beauty parlors note that they specialize in long hair care, as the Latinas here tend to sport flowing locks.

Salons with stylists who care for all hair types level the playing field in the hair care industry. Black hairdressers, such as Glen Etienne of DeLux Salon in Brooklyn, believe a double standard exists in cosmetology. African American stylists must master care for all hair types to become licensed, while non-black stylists can remain clueless about black hair, he told the fashion watchdog site Glammonitor in May.

"For the actual state board test, they want to see techniques to cut white hair," Etienne said. "You can cut black hair good enough, but you better know how to cut white hair. Any white person could walk into a black salon and get their hair done properly."

My stylist, who owns the eponymous Brenton Lee Salon in South Pasadena, California, thinks salons should cater to everyone. This outlook benefits not only clients but stylists as well, he said.
African American stylists must master care for all hair types to become licensed, while non-black stylists can remain clueless about black hair.
"Having an atmosphere where everyone's welcome, where almost anybody can come in, that's huge for me," Lee said. "It's also important for the team of stylists. Working on diverse clientele, you learn more, you see more, you're open to a lot more. You're not just stuck in a box."

As a business owner, it doesn't hurt either, given that "nowadays everyone is mixed with some kind of something," said Lee, whose salon opened in 2012. The more hair types your stylists can care for, the more revenue they can generate.

Beyond the financial rewards, multiracial salons allow families to bond. On more than one occasion, I've seen white mothers drop off their biracial daughters at black beauty shops and head elsewhere to maintain their locks. Segregated salons rob these mother-daughters of the chance to get pampered together, an ordinary but memory-making experience that mothers and daughters of the same race largely take for granted.

In addition to allowing mixed-race families to get styled in one place, multiracial salons break down stereotypes. Under Lee's care, I've yet to have a white patron make an inappropriate comment about my hair. No client has asked to touch my hair, or worse, done so without permission. So, why is it that I've had these experiences on the street but not in multiracial hair salons? In a setting where people of all races get their hair styled together, hair becomes hair, not black hair or white hair or Asian hair. Black women's hair loses its mystery when you see stylists tending to it on a regular basis. It's difficult to "other" the familiar.
"I see hair as just a texture, whether it's straight or curly," Lee said.
Lee, for one, doesn't view hair through a racial lens.

"I see hair as just a texture, whether it's straight or curly," he said.

Speaking of curly, my small town friend has a head full of ringlets. Both of her parents are black, but her locks bear a strong resemblance to Keri Russell's in their bouncy unaltered state. With those two in mind, it's hard to pinpoint where white hair ends and black hair begins. They only strengthen Lee's point that hair shouldn't be categorized by race but by texture.

Since "white hair" and "black hair" overlap, isn't it high time that hair care for everyone became an industry standard?
Nadra Nittle is a Los Angeles-based journalist. She's written for several news outlets, including the Los Angeles News Group, the Maynard Institute for Journalism Education and About.com.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Hair Is Hair: Making the Case for Multiracial Salons

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for The Goods by Vox. You can also see what we're up to by signing up here.

# data[].attributes.body
Many hairstylists are not required to learn how to style, cut, and color Black hair in school—resulting in racial segregation at salons across this country. The writer of this story is a director at one such segregated salon and is still employed, so we chose to keep her identity and that of the salon private for her personal protection. Her experience is not uncommon, though, so we urge you to ask your salon about its policies and demand that it ensures hair equality by hiring those equipped with the knowledge of working with Black hair.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
EDITOR'S NOTE: Many hairstylists are not required to learn how to style, cut, and color Black hair in school-resulting in racial segregation at salons across this country. The writer of this story is a director at one such segregated salon and is still employed, so we chose to keep her identity and that of the salon private for her personal protection. Her experience is not uncommon, though, so we urge you to ask your salon about its policies and demand that it ensures hair equality by hiring those equipped with the knowledge of working with Black hair.

When I became the studio coordinator at a top salon, I didn't initially feel out of place among a largely White staff. Growing up in a big city and attending a predominantly White all-girls school, I was accustomed to situations in which I was surrounded by those who shared skin tones and ideologies different from me. Being the only Black person in a room was an everyday occurrence. I grew comfortable in these situations, able to navigate the nuances of what seems affixed to the DNA of America. I quickly realized that my tolerance ends when I'm exposed to moments of racism, whether overt or veiled. Which is why I soon became uncomfortable in my own skin at the salon, where I learned that racial segregation never really ended.

Racial inequality has become a forefront of conversation in today's political climate. And although people will get defensive, clutch their pearls, and deny it when you call them out on racism or white privilege, now, more than ever, we need to have these uncomfortable conversations. Just because something is commonplace does not make it okay. Especially when an unjust practice-hair discrimination-is brought to your attention and you still choose not to change.

As if typed out of habit, every client with Black hair in their profile had the word NO beside their name in big, bold, all-caps letters.

As I sat at the salon's front desk on my third day, receiving training on the procedures and scheduling, I was introduced to the wait list. With 1,000-plus people and stylist books that were completely filled for the next three months, the level of elite exclusivity became clear to me. At first, admittedly, I saw this as praiseworthy news. This was a small business with a dedicated base of customers willing to wait nearly a year to get their hair transformed at the hands of trained professionals. But as I scrolled, continuing to examine the queue, another reality brazenly came into view: As if typed out of habit, every client with Black hair in their profile had the word NO beside their name in big, bold, all-caps letters. I coyly made eye contact with the person training me. "No one here knows how to do African-American hair," they instinctively replied.

Though I was taken aback, part of me attempted to rationalize their answer by reflecting on the hair and salon industry as a whole. Many stylists are not required to be trained in all textures, and many salons don't employ those who know how to work with curly, coiled, and textured hair. This is entirely unacceptable. Some salon owners and stylists assume the stereotype that Black hair is unmanageable, while others just blatantly refuse service.

I let it go, at least momentarily, and I gave the job a chance. The recent birth of my daughter coincided with months of unemployment, so the prospect of stability flew directly in the face of my own ethical tenets. I took the blessing for what it was, and as institutions have always hoped, I kept my mouth shut and my head down. After all, women of color are made to think that they don't deserve a seat at the table. If they do get one, they're expected to shut up and eat quietly, because they are there for show.

I can now confidently say, after almost two years and a promotion to director, the salon I work for does not welcome Black patrons. Our policy requires that all new clients send in a picture of their hair to get on the wait list. And since the beginning of my employment, I have outright been told to send Black women-textured hair or not-to the Black-owned salon down the street. Over the years, I've constantly grappled with this. When I open an email from a beautiful brown woman who looks like me and I have to tell her we don't see people like you, it hurts my heart. Have I become a pawn of a prejudicial institution? Am I further propagating racial biases, and, in regard to my employment, am I complicit? Though I can't publicly name the salon due to my employment at this time, this issue is bigger than just the one place I work. Discriminatory hair practices disguised as ignorance are common in many salons servicing predominantly White neighborhoods.

To be clear, my salon does have clients of Indian, Latina, and Asian descent. The owner might see that as inclusive, but it's no longer good enough for me. You cannot be somewhat inclusive-either you are, or you are not. You can't completely bar an entire race from your establishment due to inadequate training, and then defend your actions with clichéd rebuttals like, "I have friends or employees of color." Adjacency does not imply allyship. And in this case, my salon is assuming that the few cases of textured hair it tends to outweigh the hundreds it so blatantly denies.

Saying that no one can "do Black hair" is an unacceptable cop-out when the owner has given me, a Black woman, highlights. It's a lie. There are plenty of White women with curly, coarse, thick hair who are able to have their strands colored here at the salon. So what is the excuse again?

I have pleaded to diversify the clientele of the business, but the request falls on deaf ears. It's painful to know that I would be sent down the street to a different salon for a treatment if I didn't already work here. We have Black employees, but no Black customers. Often people of color and, more specifically, Black women are held back in environments that masquerade as something they are not. They include us only under the guise of diversity and equality as an obligation to prove that they are progressive. Prejudice is oppression, no matter the magnitude.

Stop saying you don't know "how" to do Black hair and say what you mean: You don't want to do Black hair.

When clients email and ask why they see only blonde women on our Instagram, I'm ashamed to have to fabricate an answer that doesn't disclose the full truth-that I work for a business so blatant in its disrespect for Black women. My race of women. I can no longer be silent. When you strive to be the best at what you do, it should be a given that you seek education to perform your craft for all people. There are numerous courses and schools that can teach stylists how to dye textured hair, especially when they take classes on cut and color techniques often enough. Stop saying you don't know how to do Black hair and say what you mean: You don't want to do Black hair. Whether you can or cannot is of no consequence. Once upon a time, you couldn't do hair at all.

I can only change the racism in the world by doing what I can to dismantle the racism within my bubble. I'm asking all salons and stylists today: Please seek the education needed to include all women in your craft. There have been incredible strides made in the beauty industry toward diversity, like inclusive foundations and skin care targeted to darker complexions. It's not enough. Every business-more specifically, hair salons and cosmetology schools-should be inclusive of all people.

This ignorant and blatant segregation of hair types is all too common in salons around the world, even as institutions have worked toward equality. This modern-day segregation can't be normalized or swept under the rug. We must continue to fight the invisible, Jim Crow-inspired signs we see, if not just to combat the generational trauma they inspire. If you are White, the next time you're sunken into your salon chair, please ask your stylist, "Do you do Black hair?" And don't take no for an answer.

This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
EDITOR'S NOTE: Many hairstylists are not required to learn how to style, cut, and color Black hair in school-resulting in racial segregation at salons across this country. The writer of this story is a director at one such segregated salon and is still employed, so we chose to keep her identity and that of the salon private for her personal protection.

# data[].attributes.body
As the mother of biracial children, I have had to shop for them in the Ethnic beauty and grooming section since they were infants. Their hair and skin are not Caucasian. Their needs are different than mine.

It has been difficult to find products that work for their hair and skin. While there has been some change in Ethnic Beauty (additional range of products), my children and African Americans do not have the gamut of choice that Caucasians enjoy, nor does the branding/marketing reflect the level of sophistication of the consumer in many cases.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Examining Systemic Racism in Beauty Branding

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Some CPG brands are responding with steps towards equality but more remains to be done.

# data[].attributes.body
An analysis of colorism and strides toward inclusivity in the cosmetic industry shows an over-representation of light to medium tones, and a lack of offered products for darker skin tones. Brands such as Fenty, debuted by Rhianna in 2017, focused on disrupting the limitation of available pigments and shades for darker skin tones.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The global cosmetics market is expanding and expected to reach roughly $430 billion by 2022. In this period of growth, the industry is evolving and becoming more complex to meet consumer desires and preferences to become more sustainable as well as diverse. The adoption of inclusivity and diversity has had a positive impact on the beauty industry and its market, as beauty products, fashion, and the media deeply influence body image and beauty ideals of consumers.

The Importance of Diversity in the Beauty Community

Representation matters . On a societal level, it can affect cultural socialization. On a personal level, it is vitally important to self-image. Representation and diversity are vital to the beauty industry in disrupting Euro-centric and heteronormative beauty standards. An inclusive approach not only caters to wider markets but also offers the opportunity to develop products that are specifically targeted to the different needs of consumers.

Examples of Diversity in the Beauty Community

Diversity in the beauty community promotes products that meet the individual needs of the consumer. This may include variables for makeup, hair, and fashion.

An analysis of colorism and strides toward inclusivity in the cosmetic industry shows an over-representation of light to medium tones, and a lack of offered products for darker skin tones. Brands such as , debuted by Rhianna in 2017, focused on disrupting the limitation of available pigments and shades for darker skin tones.

A case concerning discrimination and a person's natural hair has finally made it to congress, and the Crown Act of 2020 ensures that a person's hair texture cannot be used discriminatorily in relation to federally assisted programs, schools, housing programs, public accommodations, and employment. The Crown act is championed by the Crown Coalition and the skin and hair care company . Ensuring that hair textures and protective styles are protected from race-based hair discrimination is one step towards diversity and inclusion in the beauty community.

The parent company to popular brands such as Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, PVH Corp. has partnered with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) to examine roles of inclusion and diversity in American fashion. Their study seeks to identify problematic issues and spaces within the beauty community, and to instigate awareness and action to create change. The collaborative group is calling on peers and colleagues as well as to consumers, to hold themselves accountable to push for diversity and inclusion of all areas, abilities, age, gender, ethnicity, and sexual orientation.

Examples of Underrepresentation in the Beauty Community

An analysis of consumer behavior in the men's cosmetics market explores the demand for beauty products that are developed and curated for men. One-third of men say they'd consider wearing cosmetics, recognizing the need for products that are specific to men's skincare needs. These products may include smells that are not overtly "feminine," that are developed, marketed, and branded specifically for men's beauty, hygiene, and self-care. Men that participated in the study noted that reasons for not using cosmetics included guilt for buying cosmetics and issues of self-confidence or self-esteem.

People With Disabilities

Ableism in the fashion industry has resulted in not only a lack of genuine representation, but also offensive discrimination in the form of tokenisms and appropriation. One example includes the photoshoot of beauty icon Kylie Jenner who used a golden wheelchair as a prop, intending to proclaim her struggles with fame and various restrictions that she personally faces.

The appropriation of the mobility device in the photoshoot was insulting to those that require the use of a wheelchair as it was seen as a frivolous and edgy, rather than genuinely representative. Models with disabilities are still largely underrepresented in the fashion and beauty industry, but modeling agencies are working for representation that includes models with disabilities. Companies such as L'Oréal are working to create inclusive employment opportunities .

The LGBTQIA+ community is changing the beauty industry by increasing visibility and helping to embrace new consumers and the demand for genderfluid products. Beauty industry giant Sephora offers classes for confidence - in-person and online instruction to empower non-traditional makeup users, non-binary persons, and members of the transgender community. Beauty companies such as Milk Makeup and Very Good Light collaborated on the DNA project, Blur the Lines , that explores the link between individuality and the gender spectrum.

People of Color

The Future of Diversity in the Beauty Community

There is still much work to be done to embrace a diverse and inclusive beauty community, to which students of makeup artistry courses are also accountable. Students that aspire to work within the industry must be knowledgeable and proficient in diverse hair, beauty, and body products and practices. It is important to ensure that makeup schools include inclusive diploma courses before .

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Could the Beauty Community Be More Diverse? - L Make Up School

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The global cosmetics market is expanding and expected to reach roughly $430 billion by 2022. In this period of growth, the industry is evolving and becoming more complex to meet consumer desires and preferences to become more sustainable as well as diverse.

# data[].attributes.body
The message that people of color are not wanted in the beauty industry is sent to them loud and clear in many ways, some subtle ones and some not so subtle ones.
There are very few foundation or concealer shades that are dark enough to match the skintone of people of colour.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Racism or Acceptance in the beauty industry?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The beauty industry is one of the fastest growing industries in the world, worth $532 billion U.S

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
L'Oréal, Unilever and other beauty giants are changing their marketing strategy to remove racially sensitive branding and products that promote skin lightening.

Beauty brands are facing growing pressure to address the racism built into their products targeted at consumers who live outside the US, particularly those that boast of skin lightening and whitening properties.

Global conglomerates including Unilever, L'Oréal and Johnson & Johnson have begun renaming or removing such products that uphold white skin as desirable. But applying Western expectations onto audiences in Asia, where skin-lightening products are sold, is fraught. Many consumers don't support the removal of these products, even if the intent is to stop promoting light skin as the beauty ideal, says Sofya Bakhta, marketing strategy analyst at Daxue Consulting, a market research firm in Shanghai.

In Asia, consumers see fair skin as a beauty ideal, and Chinese slang like 白富美 ( bai fu mei), which directly translates to "white-rich-beautiful", is still commonly used in the country to describe a woman who is "perfect", says Ashley Yang, a 26-year-old from Kunming. She adds that 黑丑穷 ( hei chou qiong), which translates as "black-ugly-poor", has been used to describe something undesirable.

"Asian consumers have their own beauty ideals, and, perhaps, they are not yet ready to abandon the standards that have been formed for decades," says Bakhta.

Such standards have led beauty companies in Asia to market products that are insensitive to Black people and dark-skinned consumers, says Jason Petrulis, assistant professor of global history at the Education University of Hong Kong. Today, there are over 25,600 skin-whitening products sold by Alibaba. "For years, executives have known they are putting racist products into millions of Asian households, and they have been OK with that."

Eliminating, or renaming, lightening products

The recent attention to the space follows weeks of anti-racism protests in response to the killings of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor and Ahmaud Arbery and the resulting reckoning of the racist practices embedded in many companies.

Johnson & Johnson, which sells skin-lightening products in Asia and the Middle East like Neutrogena's "Fine Fairness" and Clean & Clear's "Clear Fairness", has said it will stop selling those products and others that are marketed as dark-spot reducers but have been purchased by some consumers to lighten skin tone.

Other companies will keep selling such products, but with different branding, meaning the products will still be available to use but not promoted in support of light skin as the ideal. Unilever is renaming the skin-whitening cream Fair & Lovely, sold in Southern Asian countries like India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore, to Glow & Lovely, with the men's version to be renamed Glow & Handsome.

The terms "whitening" and "lightening" will also be removed from packaging and marketing materials. Unilever's Fair & Lovely made up around 27 per cent of Unilever's total skincare sales in Asia Pacific in 2019, according to Euromonitor. The changes are part of a company shift to be more inclusive by introducing "strict marketing principles that [do not] make any association between skin tone and a person's achievement, potential or worth", a spokesperson told Vogue Business.

L'Oréal has also announced it will remove skin-whitening references from its products. During the French cosmetics giant's annual general meeting on 30 June, chief executive Jean-Paul Agon acknowledged that the products were "intended to protect the skin against UV rays [and] signs of skin ageing", he said. "In Asia, these products have been called 'whiteners' or 'fairness', but these names are increasingly challenged by our local consumers, and therefore we decided to adapt the wording to adapt to the change in mindset." Asia Pacific accounted for 32.3 per cent of L'Oréal's business in 2019, according to Daxue Consulting.

Companies outside of the US like Japan's Shiseido and South Korea's Amorepacific, which have devoted a considerable part of their businesses to marketing creams and lotions that promise to lighten skin tone, have not announced plans to pull or rename their whitening products. Both companies declined to comment for this story.

"Advertising more inclusive beauty products and selling whitening creams are two sides of the same coin. A new name on a box will not liberate women and men from social norms," says Dr. Elizabeth LaCouture, programme director and assistant professor of gender studies at The University of Hong Kong.

Grappling with cultural norms

While Western consumers have lauded the shift, it's a different story in Asia. An online poll conducted by the Chinese state-owned media company Phoenix Weekly found that only 9 per cent of 6,400-plus respondents supported companies becoming more racially sensitive, while over half said the move to remove references to lighter skin tones was "ridiculous". Users on the Chinese social network Weibo questioned whether beauty companies might be overreacting.

Asian beauty standards have long put whiteness at a premium, and these aesthetics run deeper than skin colour, with the popularity of plastic surgery procedures in Asia designed to make facial features more Caucasian.

Asian consumers have their own beauty ideals, and, perhaps, they are not yet ready to abandon the standards that have been formed for decades"

Nearly 6,300 tonnes of skin-whitening products were sold worldwide last year, according to Euromonitor, including products marketed as anti-ageing creams targeting dark spots or freckles. India carries the highest percentage of whitening skincare products, with almost 80 per cent of basic moisturisers sold in India holding skin-whitening properties. These products also prove popular in Southeast Asian markets, such as Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines, where skin-whitening moisturisers make up over 50 per cent of the market. Meanwhile, in China, 30 per cent of all basic moisturisers sold have skin-whitening properties.

"We have a global beauty industry that thrives on insecurity and the allure of achievable 'enhancement' built upon ideals that privilege white skin," says Maggie Tan, 25, from Guangzhou, who spends almost £300 on beauty every month. "I've bought dark spot reducers and brightening masks because I felt insecure about the freckles on my face."

"People in Asia don't really perceive 'whitening' products as racist because Asian people have always pursued 'fair' skin for beauty and social status. My mum and her friends buy whitening products, and they will continue to," says Yang.

Modern brands reflect new mindsets

As more Western brands like Fenty, Coty and NYX enter the Chinese market in recent years, the concept of "inclusive makeup" and alternative forms of beauty are becoming more welcomed by local consumers, says Elisa Harca, Asia CEO of Red Ant, a digital marketing agency in Shanghai that follows developments in youth culture, trends and movements. "Consumers are increasingly in the pursuit of individualism, personality and authentic style."

"Chinese consumers are not afraid to experiment, and they quickly respond to trends, which makes me believe that inclusive beauty can become [widely accepted] in China as well," agrees Daxue Consulting's Bakhta.

With brand empathy playing a bigger role in purchasing decisions, brand loyalty is changing, and more consumers are searching for morally aligned companies that stand for what they believe in, says Gabriella Beckwith, senior research analyst at Euromonitor.

"In light of Covid-19 and the Black Lives Matter movement, there has been a call for companies to put greater emphasis on people over profit," she explains. "If brands continue to sell products marketed as 'whitening' and 'fair', despite continued demand from Asian and African consumers, a damaged global reputation in times of scrutiny could cost more than lost opportunity in these regions."

To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here.

Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
More from this author: How JW Anderson's cardigan went viral on TikTok Dior plots digital cruise show but promises return to traditional schedule Keeping it private: How brands nurture micro-communities

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Beauty ideals were built on racist stereotypes. What now?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
L'Oréal, Unilever and other beauty giants are changing their marketing strategy to remove racially sensitive branding and products that promote skin lightening. Beauty brands are facing growing pressure to address the racism built into their products targeted at consumers who live outside the US, particularly those that boast of skin lightening and whitening properties.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Since the start of the pandemic, violence against Asian Americans has been on the rise. In San Francisco, there's been a recent wave of racist assaults targeting elders in the Asian American community that's caused injury and death. A native of Thailand who moved to the United States to help care for his grandchildren, 84-year-old Vicha Ratanapakdee was killed last month after being attacked in the city's Anza Vista neighborhood. In New York City on Tuesday, a 52-year-old Asian American woman was shoved to the ground outside a bakery. In light of the heinous hate crimes and ongoing discrimination against Asian Americans, we ask 25 Asian American and Asian beauty entrepreneurs and executives: What should the beauty industry do to show support for Asian Americans and combat racism against them?

As an Asian-owned brand, our hearts are heavy with the recent increase in racially-motivated attacks against the Asian American and Pacific Islander community. I would encourage everyone to learn about what is happening, even if it isn't getting the focus of mainstream media, and to speak up in your own way, regardless of how big your platform is. We must celebrate and stand with our AAPI community to make sure our voices are heard and experiences are recognized. That means putting competition aside, and lifting up the many Asian founders and businesses that are truly creating change for the better and disrupting the status quo in the beauty industry.

As a biracial, Asian Black American growing up in a small, close-minded, Midwestern town in the 1980s, I felt "safer" to identify as Asian - my lighter half. I, a teacher and believer in inclusion, have been guilty of erasing the problems Asian Americans deal with on the daily.

How can we combat this racism in the beauty industry? As superficial as beauty can seem on the surface, it is a really powerful space to effect change. When Asians are acknowledged and seen, the importance for inclusive education, more representation and wider color ranges is prioritized.

So, where do we start? The same way we disrupt all the other false narratives about our beauty, heritages and cultures: We use our voices and share Asian stories, stories of diverse and nuanced Asian experiences, from little girls to sage elders.

Like I've always said, Dehiya's products are just a vehicle to have larger conversations around beauty. Beauty isn't just about looks. It's also about exercising your freedom to feel good about yourself and your identity. It's an expression of how we see ourselves in the world, and a sense of belonging, community and feeling seen. This is what I can offer, the message that I see you, welcome you and want you to be seen. I will do my part to redefine the narrative and celebrate our beauty.

In my opinion, one of the main reasons racism exists against Asians is because the social dialogue hasn't really changed. We're still seen as outsiders in this country even if we were born here and speak perfect English. Change is always uncomfortable, and it starts with having uncomfortable conversations, asking uncomfortable intentional, thoughtful questions to learn about our experiences and culture. This applies to everything and is no different in regards for the beauty industry to learn. One way to be inclusive and to show support is by having a diverse leading team in place. There's a saying that says, "The fish rots from the head." Underserved voices will only be heard when the leading team is open, compassionate and wants to hear to learn.

Drive awareness about xenophobia. Calling out direct and indirect racism associated with the global pandemic and peaceful protests against systemic racism against the Asian American community. Celebrating beauty and dignity is Reveal Beauty's purpose and mission, and the ability to practice this in all aspects. For example, inviting friends, family and our networks to intentionally reach out and check in with Asian Americans and celebrate their beauty and dignity. Taking an active part in supporting shoulder-to-shoulder with racial Asian-targeted issues that are heavily weighed on the Asian American community. Celebrating all victories -big and small- that Asian Americans have achieved and survived through in these difficult times, especially since the global pandemic.

As a Chinese American in the beauty industry, this is such an important conversation that resonates with me so deeply though I often have a hard time expressing my many feelings and desires for change. I've found myself looking to leaders in the Asian American beauty community like , who shares important actions to raise awareness and make change, and the editorial director of Byrdie, , who recently wrote an extremely powerful where she shares some of her experiences as an Asian American. If you haven't read it already, I would highly recommend it. In the piece she writes, "We must build a bigger table, together. It is not us or them. It is all of us, altogether, united."

I think it goes back to ensuring diversity and representation across three things: self, work and community. For self, it means focusing on personal education and understanding to see if you have any unconscious biases, not just against Asians, but other racial communities and learning about these cultural backgrounds. For work, it means making sure your workplace is a tolerant and open place for people of all backgrounds, including Asians. Ensure your hiring is diverse, that your content represents people of all backgrounds, and that your copy is sensitive to all. Make sure your brand is not leveraging cultural appropriation products or marketing. For community, it means using your brand and business or even personal influence to help support the community. This can be by giving time or monetary donations. There are some great organizations to support. I have personally supported to give a media voice to the Asian American community, Stop AAPI Hate to help on a local, state and national level, and the NYC-based Enough is Enough campaign to help support on a grassroots level in the NYC area.

Anti-Asian racism is not a new issue and raising awareness by leveraging industry platforms can aid in continuing the conversation and calls to action. There are many ways to get involved: practice compassion, allyship, support Asian-owned businesses and donate to causes that fight against racism. We must unite against racism in all its forms and work to collaborate, partner and support each other.

As a minority, we're still in the single-digit percentage of the overall population. Major exit polls don't even care to see where we fall on issues. W e're usually lumped into the "other" group if we're represented at all, so what does that tell you about our place in this country?

In terms of what the beauty industry can do to show support and combat racism against Asian Americans, I think the answer lies in examining the power structures that helm the multifaceted beauty industry, from retailers and brands to investors as well as the media and publications. It's my hope that there is more BIPOC representation overall in the industry, but especially in leadership roles. Change comes from the top. This includes the mastheads of influential publications, executive teams at venture capital firms, buyers in retail teams, leadership roles at brands and so forth. Increased diversity champions new voices that haven't been heard, and these voices most often speak to others who have not been represented. Decades of data in employment practices is clear. Asian Americans are recognized as highly competent, incredibly skillful and valuable team members, yet we are the most overlooked and undervalued.

These prejudices didn't just happen. It's underlying, and the longer-term work needs to come from ongoing evaluation, reflection and correction. This is less tangible than a direct action item, but that's why they say you have to "do the work." Sure, tangible targets like setting up pledges to carry Asian American brands, investing a percentage of your funds into Asian American-made brands can and do help, but these quota systems are a band-aid that, at best, don't address the core systemic oppression and, at worst, tokenize who we are, which isn't the goal. The goal is equality, which includes access to the same opportunities as our white peers, and having our work and value be recognized in a system that hasn't been set up to appreciate our worth.

I encourage the beauty industry to confront internalized biases. This includes how a buyer or investor might evaluate brands, how an editor might approach products, how PR does their messaging, how analysts shape their forecasts about the market, etc. Our own firsthand experiences at Yüli include conversations with perfectly nice retail founders who reach out to us and communicate how they pride themselves on their curation though they're largely repetitive and look like everyone else's, where at least 80% of the brands they carry happen to not be BIPOC-founded.

For brands and retailers, especially those that make money from products and services that draw from Asian practices, let's all be more mindful around rhetoric we use, especially because I know there will be some who aren't going further than virtue signaling and superficial social media allyship. I'd encourage them to consider the language and approach they use for things like Traditional Chinese Medicine, Ayurveda and general Eastern practices as it pertains to concepts like herbal remedies and gua sha.

Are they empowering the culture or are they commodifying and exploiting the culture? Is the messaging Orientalizing and exoticizing our traditions and, on the other hand, are they erasing us from the narrative of our own culture? If they don't have a comfortable handle on it, I'd encourage some self-reflection, followed by the inclusion of Asian American voices.

Finally, for all the Asian Americans in the beauty industry, I see you. We are not a monolith, but there is a common bond that lies in the hyphen of our multicultural identity that shapes our experiences as minorities in a majority culture. I believe that sharing our authentic, oftentimes nuanced and complex narratives is a powerful tool to shape the future, especially when violence and racism against our community have historically been underreported and unrealized.

Being a part of an emerging Asian beauty brand, we feel that it is important to let everyone understand that, in life, there should be no race or gender inequality issues. We are all human beings that breathe, eat and share the same space on earth. We should come in unity to address these issues .

I think there a lot of diversity and inclusion commitment support in the retail front happening, and I believe that this is one big step to foster better understanding in the inclusive beauty scape in general. Showcasing different beauty cultures in retail platforms and showing the identity of each culture would be a great step in healing and showing diversity support.

It's not enough for brands to just include one Asian person in a campaign and call it a day. First, people need to realize that there are so many different types of Asians. We look different, and we all come from different cultural backgrounds.

It'd be nice to see brands that are using traditional Asian ingredients or techniques (turmeric, ginger, green tea, gua sha tools, just to name a few) use the opportunity to share some history and help educate consumers about it. It's hard to see that things we used to be made fun of like the shape of our eyes become a trend ("fox-eye" makeup), and I hope that, by exposure to our culture and history, people will become more aware and recognize the community.

As a woman in the beauty industry originally from Singapore, it is heart breaking for me to see violence against Asian Americans on the rise. I appreciate the opportunity to provide my perspective on such an important issue. I believe racism of any kind stems from ignorance and the saying, "Knowledge is power," really rings true especially in this instance.

It's important to provide platforms where different communities, whether on social media, in the workplace or among friends and family, have a "safe zone" to have conversations and discussions that are not judged and filtered. We need to respond to racism not with anger and frustration, but with the purpose of showing why their perception of Asian Americans is flawed. Only through increased awareness and education, will we be able to create positive change to unite us all.

I'm the daughter of first-generation immigrants. I know firsthand the experience of growing up as a minority. It's crazy to think that, in 2021, Asians and other minority groups have to feel unsafe while walking down the street. The anti-Asian sentiment is not new, but the pandemic has certainly emboldened racists to commit violent, hateful acts out in the open. The lack of media coverage and mass public outcry says a lot about how much more improvement is needed in this space.

To start, the beauty industry can help raise awareness by posting about this on their socials and starting a conversation about Anti-Asian crimes. Stop AAPI Hate is a national coalition of different Asian American groups that are working to address Anti-Asian hate crimes. Support them by tagging them [in social posts] and donating to their cause.

Some of the hate crimes are particularly disturbing. Six Buddhist temples were vandalized within a single month in Little Saigon. Two children aged 2 and 6, along with their father, were slashed with a knife in Texas while grocery shopping. An elderly Thai man was murdered in public. Asian females make up the majority of reported attacks. At the same time, the model minority myth is continually pushed, harming Asian minority groups even more by downplaying their suffering.

Personally, I was walking down the street in Manhattan in February 2020, not even thinking about my safety during broad daylight. Just one week later, an Asian woman my age was attacked walking in the same area. I could have been her. I'm no stranger to verbal racist abuse, having experienced it before. I can tell you that it's humiliating and dehumanizing. When it crosses over from verbal to physical, it's much worse.

The current political rhetoric shifts the blame on Asians for "starting" the virus. This is so incredibly irresponsible. These victims of violence have nothing to do with that. There are also uncomfortable questions that society needs to address: Why is there a misconception that Asian Americans are less American and, therefore, have fewer rights? Why are Asians seen as easy targets? The recent spate of attacks on the Asian elderly showcases how far some would go to pick on the vulnerable.

Another thing the beauty industry-and anyone else can do-is to question and discuss their own perceived beliefs about Asian communities. Do not fall for the model minority myth. Do not generalize about all Asians in general. Asia is incredibly diverse within itself with thousands of subgroups, cultures and languages. Most of all, it's time to mutually educate and empathize as a community in the midst of a global pandemic that affects all genders, races and ages.

It saddens me that we still have to speak up and fight against racial hate crimes. I long to live in a world where everyone is viewed as a human being and respects all races and cultures. Asian Americans have a reputation for being passive and avoiding trouble, and that contributes to making us targets. But it is time we speak up and raise our voices with the support from our friends in the beauty and fashion industry.

We must use our platforms to share the beauty of being human and understand how these industries have the power to make real change in the world we see, how they can make all people feel beautiful, regardless of their background through representation and consideration.

I would like to urge people to raise their voice and create a space for this long overdue conversation. Be kind to each other, respect each other, be honest with each other. That will make the world a better place. Hate will only cause hurt.

If you have a question you'd like Beauty Independent to ask beauty entrepreneurs, please send it to editor@beautyindependent.com.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
What The Beauty Industry Should Do To Fight Anti-Asian Racism - Beauty Independent

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
As an Asian-owned brand, our hearts are heavy with the recent increase in racially-motivated attacks against the Asian American and Pacific Islander community. I would encourage everyone to learn about what is happening, even if it isn't getting the focus of mainstream media, and to speak up in your own way, regardless of how big your platform is.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Beauty Industry Needs to Stop Being Racist Now

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
increased awareness of rosacea in patients of colour and reduce disparities in the management of their disease.

# data[].attributes.headline
Giving the right education on textured hair 

# data[].attributes.subject
Giving the right education on textured hair 

# data[].attributes.body
"The practical exam in Louisiana and every other state focuses primarily on straight hair," explains Neill. "There are parts that teach you how to make straight hair curly, but there weren't any sections that detailed how to style naturally textured hair."

- The exam required to obtain a state-issued cosmetology license did not include natural or textured hair.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
This Cosmetology School Is Leading the Charge to Include Textured Hair Education in Every Stylist’s Training

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Get to know the advocates driving industry-wide change at the Aveda Arts & Sciences Institute.

# data[].attributes.headline
Asians are being targeted for no reason 

# data[].attributes.subject
Asians are being targeted for no reason 

# data[].attributes.body
Fearing for their lives, communities and businesses, Asian Americans and others are speaking against the violence and hate crimes.

A Stop AAPI Hate rally, put together by minority-led community organizations, will take place at 1 p.m.  Saturday, March 27, at the Chinese Pavilion in front of the library in downtown Riverside.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Nail salons in Riverside and Yucaipa are among those being targeted in an apparent campaign of anonymous, racist, hate letters being sent to Asian-owned businesses.

Riverside resident Jackie Vu's family, which owns Top 10 Nails & Spa in the Tyler Square shopping center, discovered such a letter Sunday, March 21, addressed to the salon, which is near the Galleria at Tyler mall. It was written to "all Asian," without the s.

The typewritten, all-caps letter - posted by Vu on Instagram - includes expletives, slurs and stereotypes, calling the business owners "ugly, smelly and disgusting." It tells them to go back to their "nasty" country, adding an expletive to describe the nation.

The family reported the incident to the Riverside Police Department.

Vu, 32, used to work in the nail salons at the Galleria at Tyler. When Vu first read the letter, she said she was "at a loss for words" and "disgusted." Her first instinct was to call other local, Vietnamese-owned salons to see if they had received similar letters, while warning them to take caution.

"This is my home," Vu said. "Growing up here as a first-generation immigrant, and to have that happen in own neighborhood, in my own backyard, and it really hurts. I want to experience the real American dream. Do not tell me that I am not deserving of that dream; to live a happy, free and fruitful life without being attacked or harassed ... Why the hate? When is it going to be real enough; when more people die? I just got a letter, and I want it to stop there."

Riverside police spokesman Ryan Railsback said no suspect has yet been identified.

The words "Department of Health and Human Services" were typed in the envelope's return address spot. The letter was not sent by a health department, Railsback said.

"At this point, we have no reason to believe there is a credible threat to this business, its owner or employees, but we are taking this very seriously and still monitoring this investigation," Railsback said. "We're expecting others to receive this identical letter, they just haven't checked the mail yet."

In Yucaipa, a nail salon owner received the same letter and reported it to the Yucaipa Police Department on Wednesday, March 25, according to Jodi Miller, a spokeswoman for the San Bernardino County Sheriff's Department. Recent news reports about rising anti-Asian hate crimes prompted the business owner to report it, Miller said.

The incident is under investigation, and there are no leads, said Miller, who declined to name the business to protect its identity.

In incidents like these, Railsback said, suspects typically send hateful messages to multiple places. He encouraged Asian-owned businesses and communities to report threatening emails, letters or phone messages to police.

The letters come as the Asian community has been the subject of a surge of anti-Asian hate crimes nationwide.

The non-profit Stop AAPI Hate, which monitors hate and discrimination against the Asian American Pacific Islander community, received 3,795 incident reports from March 19, 2020, to Feb. 28, 2021. Almost half - 1,691, or 44.6% - were reported in California.

News accounts report that the same anonymous letter was sent to a nail salon in Sonoma County. In Seal Beach, an Asian woman grieving her dead husband received a handwritten, anonymous letter on Monday, March 22, that said "Asians are taking over our American community." The neighborhood where she lives, Seal Beach Leisure World, has since rallied against the attack.

Fearing for their lives, communities and businesses, Asian Americans and others are speaking against the violence and hate crimes.

A Stop AAPI Hate rally, put together by minority-led community organizations, will take place at 1 p.m. Saturday, March 27, at the Chinese Pavilion in front of the library in downtown Riverside.

"We are just like everyone else. We are Americans," said Karen Cheng of the Inland Chinese American Alliance. "We choose to come to this country because it is nice; people respect each other - but now, look what is happening to Asians. We work hard. We cannot just let people push us around."

Tam Nguyen, who runs Nailing It For America, a Southern California-based coalition that supports nail salons and health-care workers, was in tears when he heard of the Inland Empire incidents.

"On top of what nail salons and owners have already been through, being shut down through this pandemic ... for these letters to be received from salon owners who sacrifice their money and time, it's just a slap in their faces," Nguyen said. "It's a stab in their back. It just hurts all of us as Americans, and it needs to be called for what it is - hateful, vile, disgusting."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Riverside, Yucaipa nail salons targeted with hate letters against Asians

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Nail salons in Riverside and Yucaipa are among those being targeted in an apparent campaign of anonymous, racist, hate letters being sent to Asian-owned businesses. Riverside resident Jackie Vu's family, which owns Top 10 Nails & Spa in the Tyler Square shopping center, discovered such a letter Sunday, March 21, addressed to the salon, which is near the Galleria at Tyler mall.

# data[].attributes.headline
Breaking the stereotype of African American women and reconstructing their identity  

# data[].attributes.subject
Breaking the stereotype of African American women and reconstructing their identity  

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Ana Flávia Rezende anaflaviarezendee@gmail.com

Flávia Luciana Naves Mafra flnaves@gmail.com

Jussara Jéssica Pereira jussarajpereira@gmail.com

ABSTRACT: This paper addresses the case of five lack entrepreneurs who own businesses a public that for years has denied a esthetic and phenotypic traits. These spaces, branded as 'ethnic salons', aim to take care of the curly and / or Afrohair of Black men and women.In the face of this context, we ask: how canBlack entrepreneurs and enterprisesconfront colonialmentality in social relations, by creating businesses aimed at giving value to, and appreciatingthe identity of Black men and women? The field research was conducted via observations and interviews,collecting narratives from both. The narratives went through a process of synthesis and analysisprocesses that allowed us to flag the motivesbehind these enterprises, as well as the racial/ethnic acceptance present in these spaces. Thus, the main contribution of this paper is to discuss 'hairtype' as a constitutive element of Black racial identity, and the opportunity for more autonomywhen entering the labor market.

Keywords: Coloniality, Black Identity, Ethnic Entrepreneurship, Beauty Salons.

RESUMO: Este trabalho aborda o caso de cinco empresários negros que possuem empreendimentos voltados para um público que há anos tem a sua estética e traços fenotípicos negados. Esses espaços, nomeados de salões étnicos, têm como finalidade cuidar do cabelo crespo e/ou cacheado de mulheres e homens negros. Frente a essa contextualização, pergunta-se: como empreendedoras e empreendedores negros enfrentam uma lógica de colonialidade nas relações sociais, mediante criação de negócios que partem da valorização e da identidade dos negros? Realizou-se a pesquisa de campo por meio de observações e entrevistas, e a partir destas colheram-se narrativas. As narrativas passaram por processos de síntese e de análise que permitiram sinalizaras motivações que dão suporte a esses empreendimentos, bem como o movimento de aceitação étnico-racial presente nesses espaços. Dessa forma, a principal contribuição deste texto é discutir a categoria cabelo como elemento constitutivo da identidade racial negra e a oportunidade de uma inserção mais autônoma no mercado de trabalho.

Palavras-chave: Colonialidade, Identidade Negra, Salões Étnicos, Empreendedorismo.

INTRODUCTION

Black, mixed-race and blackness are not just adjectives of color nor of skin tone, but they are also "[...] a social construct, persistently conceived as an opposition to whiteness:It is not only that which defines whiteness but is also inferiorized by it." ( MAPEDZAHAMA; KWANSAH-AIDOO, 2017, p.1). There is the burden of being black ( AUSTIN, 2004), a burden heavinesswhich manifests itself as, among other things, problematic stereotypes and social constructs, (in)visibility, the onus of racial duality and the burden of minimizing racism.

The trajectory of Blacks, not only in Brazil but also elsewhere (e.g., USA and France), has been marked by social inequality, discrimination and prejudice, arising from a historical and cultural construct of slavery from which phenotypic traits and Afroculture were treated as inferior in comparison to those of whites ( FANON, 2008).

Hair proves to be an important, constituent element of Black identity in this context, one which, once denied, imposes a barrier to the confrontation of inferiority and can even reinforce racism.According to Austin (2004), inferiority permeates what has been socially constructed as Black, since the meanings attributed to it are negative ( MAPEDZAHAMA; KWANSAH-AIDOO, 2017).The exotic, the black girl who is good in bed, the 'little black girl', the denial of hard, "Brillo Pad" hair are just some of the derogatory meanings and outcomes. So it is not about having this or that ancestry or having a certain skin color and hair texture, but of beinglabelled under a socially inferior construct.

This type of inferiority results in a constant struggle to not be ashamed of curly hair. Then, people begin to look for alternatives such as chemical treatments that straighten or transform curly hair into a symbol of self-esteem, consumption and personal pride ( SANTOS, 2000).The discourse of self-esteem is intertwined with a type of beauty linked to the aesthetic standards of that which is not white, but also does not have the Black appearance/phenotype.This appearance can increase the possibilities of better integration in the labor market and, even, of upward mobility. Curly/Afro hair is therefore denied and, consequently, the proposition of an identity that denies race can be noticed.

However, in contrast to the denialnegation of Black identity, we have, in recent years, witnessed the strengthening of concepts such as the Strong Black Woman (SBW) in organizational studies, erudition about Black femininity linked to postmodern discourses on identity and resistance ( NELSON; CARDEMIL; ADEOYE, 2016) and, in Brazil, social movements such as the Slam Resistance (Slam Resistência).There is also the strengthening of ethnic economic ventures, associated with the construction of an ethnic identity ( SANTOS, 2000). Among these initiatives are the beauty salons aimed at the Black population, who defend and share the idea that curly hair is as beautiful as straight, and that acceptance of the phenotype is part of the process of both strengthening self-esteem and of racial identity.

Ethnic beauty salons are commercial enterprises that comprise companies and alternative sitesfor the assimilation of another beauty standard, since the discourses produced in these enterprises developments are directedtoward ethnic reaffirmation.These salons enable the creation of an "alternative" esthetic to the dominant images in Western aesthetics ( SANTOS, 2000).

Nevertheless, even with the growth of these enterprises, their purpose and survival face daily challenges that can be observed from a decolonial perspective.This perspective aims to break away from Eurocentric and hegemonic paradigms that assume a universal point of view, neutral and objective, concealing and silencing the personwho speaks out, as well as breaking fromthe epistemic and geopolitical seat of colonial power structures ( MALDONADO-TORRES, 2007). Without this ruptureseparation, it is impossible to truly understand the violence, prejudice, and racism that are consolidated and operate through coloniality.

Despite the strength of coloniality, Lugones (2015) states that one should not think of the global capitalist system as being successful in destroying peoples, relationships, knowledge and economies,because there is constant resistance to these processes.The colonized should be considered henceforth, a fractured locus, that is, a space doubly constructed by the colonized in which there is a constant tension between resistance and coloniality.

The notion of fractured locus helps us to understand ethnic beauty salons, the object being studied in this research, because although curly/Afro hair is seen as a symbol of inferiority, in these spaces, on the other hand, there is the possibility of appreciation and re-signification of the stereotype in the struggle against subalternization,as well as in the construction of racial identity.This appreciation can go beyond the individual, even reaching the racial group to which the subject belongs ( GOMES, 2003). Moreover, these entrepreneurs find betterpositions in the job market, both because of the appreciation of curly/Afro hair, and the development of specific techniques to treat it.Even with all the inherent appropriation that comes with the capitalist system, this type of enterprise is understood to be a somewhat more autonomous form than the conventional wayBlack entrepreneurs enter the labor market.

In view of the above, the question ofthis research is: how do Black entrepreneurs face colonial logic in social relations through the creation of businesses that are based onstart from the appreciation of Black identity? Therefore, the objective of this study is to understand how theBlack entrepreneurs of specialibeauty salons resist the logic of subalternity and contribute to the construction of racial identity.

The aim of this research is to contribute within the scope of the collective, antiracist actions that are currently in Brazilian society ( JAIME, 2016). Firstly, because it is empirically based on the specific trajectories of Black entrepreneurs who argue that hair type is a constituent element of racial identity.Secondly, because the results suggest that there is an opportunity for more autonomous entry into the labor market in ethnic ventures and, therefore, a less subalternate opportunity for entry of these Black entrepreneurs.Thus, they can value their aesthetics and offer their customers and employees less colonizing conditions for hair treatment and, through that, worship their identity.

To present this study, based on the narratives of Black entrepreneurs who own beauty salons, this article is structured in five sessions, the first of which is this introduction.In the second session, we discuss issues related to colonialism, coloniality, subalternity, racism, Black entrepreneurship and ethnic beauty salons, which comprise the theoretical foundationthe construction of the text.The third session presents the methodological procedures and the data analysis. In the fourth session, the considerations are elaborated evaluatedand, finally, in the fifth session, the references used are made available.

FROM COLONIALISM TO COLONIALITY: SUBALTERNITY AND RACISM

Criticism of the modern Western world and resistance to colonialism may involve the way you choose to manage, work, think and decide in contemporary organizations ( PRASAD, 2003).

Some authors reveal the prevalence of an epistemic coloniality in organizational studies in Latin America ( IBARRA-COLADO, 2006). Others suggest discomfort regarding thepossibility that Brazilian researchers have a colonized outlook ( MISOCZKY; AMANTINO-DE-ANDRADE, 2005), and there are also those who address the effects of colonialism on the contemporary world, recognizing the need to decolonize the field of organizational studies ( ROSA; ALCADIPANI, 2013), as well as the need to listen to peripheral voices, that is, those that are not from the global centers ( ALCADIPANI et al., 2012).

The presence of multiple identities in Brazil is a historical process ( ROSA, 2014). If, on the one hand, the process of colonization was fundamental for the creation of the conditions for the multiplicity of to thevariety of conditions between these identities, it,on the other hand, triggered the emergence of a number of inequalities related to the experience of colonial domination that still pervades some contemporary societies ( QUIJANO, 2005).The colonial nature of a phenomenon rests on the hegemonic power of Modernity ( LANDER, 2005; QUIJANO, 2007).

To rebuild itself both historically and politically, Modernity in Europe, has hadthe collective notion that the European identity is superior to that of non-European peoples and cultures.This notion comes from the contrast between the European "us" and the non-European "them" (or "others"), consolidating the hegemonic European culture.Constructing such a vision of European superiority guarantees and legitimizes various types of racism, imperialism and dogmatic visions of the other ( SAID, 2007). It is therefore necessary to recognize the world as a system beyond Europe ( DUSSEL; IBARRA-COLADO, 2006), even though Eurocentric patterns and ways of thinking continue to prevail in most parts of the world ( WALSH, 2012).

Coloniality, the hidden face of Modernity, is characterized by violencejustified in the superiority of the European civilization.Thus, violence became part of the process of hegemonic modernization that then became the reason for emancipation and therefore liberation. The patterns established by Europe guided the formation of the rest of the world, and it was therefore considered justifiable to sacrifice and deny the other in sex, gender and race ( DUSSEL, 2005).

Modernity presents itself as a phenomenon of which the world is part, but each part has different positions of power ( MIGNOLO, 2005). Hence, the decolonial perspective seeks to both criticis m ofModernity and Eurocentrism as well as how to recover Latin American contributions from postcolonialism, even if this means deviating from the postcolonial canon ( BALLESTRIN, 2017). It is this "decolonial turn" that urges an epistemological movement for the critical renewal of the social sciences in Latin America in the 21st century and that defends the decolonial option ( BALLESTRIN, 2013).

The discourse of emancipation, defended by Modernity, seems to be a myth ( MIGNOLO, 2007) since while Modernity includes (those that it is concerned with - the dominant), it is used as justification for practices of violence (used by Europe in its worldwide expansion) against all those who do not belong to this group of the emancipated ( MIGNOLO, 2007; QUIJANO, 1992; DUSSEL, 2005).

Even with the end of colonization, coloniality still remains as a mindset that legitimizes discrimination and differences. The notion of coloniality takes up the ideas of the Peruvian sociologist Anibal Quijano, who developed the concept of coloniality of power in order to understand the historical context of inequality in Latin America.This concept allows us to observe a pattern of power constituted together with modern/colonial capitalism, which began with the conquest of America in 1492 ( BERNARDINO-COSTA, 2013).

The modern/colonial world-system was established through this conquest,generating a pattern of world power based on the idea of race. Thus, subjects became classified and their racial identities were associated with hierarchies, places and social roles that responded to a pattern of domination ( QUIJANO, 2005). The colonial difference is articulated, according to Mignolo (2005), based on through discussions that were about ethno-rationality, the place of the Amerindians in the Christian economy but were silent in the face of African slavery.The modern-world system was responsible for defining categories that hierarchized people by race. Thus, it defined who were Indians,who were Blacks, whites and "mixed-race". ( QUIJANO; WALLERSTEIN, 1992).

According to Quijano and Wallerstein (1992), the category of race was not simply a categorization that was imposed.Families socialized their children in cultural forms associated with ethnic identities, reinforcing these differences that were (and still are) widely used to dominate and exploit people, which take the shape of racism.

Usingrace categorization, the exploitation of labor was justified, and the colonizers defined a new, negative identity for colonized native populations. Thus, people coming from different regions of Africa, for example, were classified with a negative colonial identity, they became "the Blacks". The colonizers, on the other hand, already self-identified as Spanish, Portuguese, Iberian, British, European or white. Those who were the fruit of the relations between the now different races came to be identified as 'mestizos'. Such distribution of identities was the basis for the social classification of the population of the Americas ( QUIJANO, 1999).

According to Fernandes and Souza (2016), racism hinders interaction between the different groups that compose a society, since it is responsible for creating rigid symbolic boundaries that create binaries and opposites, such as natural / unnatural; good/ bad; authentic/inauthentic ( THOMPSON, 2009) or even the identity binary,such as being white/being black ( FERNANDES; SOUZA, 2016), which are based on negative stereotypes that attribute an essence of inferiority to Blacks.

Black people are incessantly associated with social, economic and intellectual positions inferior to those of whites. Many people, just by looking at a black person, classify them as poor and/or question their intellectual capacity in comparison to whites. In this scenario, Blacks learn to live with the denial of their social position and, therefore, resort to the naturalization of the "place" of the Blacks, the "role" of the Blacks ( PATTILLO, 2003). This is what Fanon (2008) calls the construction of the colonized subject based on a stereotypical discourse, which establishes a false image, allowing discriminatory practices and racist discourses.

When Fanon (2008) wrote about Blacks in France in the 1960s and 1970s, in his work entitled "Black skin, white masks" he describes da black man who wants to whiten. A man who sees the possibility of legitimizationin whiteness.It is necessary to consider that the Black identity is not only constructed by the force of the dominator, but also by the acceptance and incorporation of the subordinate.Identity, for Quijano (1992), can not be treated as something given neither as an attribute of isolated entities, nor assomething that must be discovered or assumed: "The question of identity has been established in Latin America since the violent destruction of Aboriginal societies / cultures by the invaders, the Europeans" ( QUIJANO, 1992, p. 74). Confronted with this reality, it is necessary to think of identity as a solidification of relations produced, reproduced and modified, and therefore changeable, in process and permanently unfinished. As the legitimacy of a people or its identity depends on the recognition of its culture, its way of life, its language, its customs and it inherent specificities within a social group, it can be said that identity itself is constructed in a process of interaction and dialogue established with others ( FERNANDES; SOUZA, 2016; SOUZA, 2012; QUIJANO, 1992).

Therefore, discussing identity, stereotypes, skin color and questioning the naturalization of the negative attributes associated with Blacks is fundamental to tackling racism and stimulating social change.Over the centuries, the inferiorization of Blacks in front of whites has embedded,in the social imaginary,the idea that Blacksare naturally inferior and can only be recognized by a process of whitening, whether by miscegenation or self-violence aesthetics.

BLACK ENTREPRENEURSHIP AND ETHNIC BEAUTY SALONS

The inclusion of Blacks in the business context, as is the case of any other group that suffers from prejudice, is both complex and paradoxical. This is because career opportunities are not the same for everyone, especially in the case of Black men and women ( JAIME, 2016). Thus, the entry of Blacks into the Brazilian labor market is marked by racial inequality ( CHADAREVIAN, 2011), since, from a very early age, they have to face a significant disadvantage in order to be recognized both professionally and intellectually. They are often associated with the "crooked" path of violence and crime or by escape on the path of disqualified work ( MACIEL; GRILLO, 2009).

In the 1970s, prejudice in the accession and promotion of Blacks to prominent positions in large corporations led them to adopt individual and defensive 'whitening' strategies that bordered on self-whitening . However, in the twenty-first century, Blacks have had the opportunity for professional achievement in organizations where they work, through collective, anti-racist actions that have been developing in Brazilian society ( JAIME, 2016).

Black entrepreneurship can be seen as a way, or an attempt, to overcome unequal and subordinate relations in the labor market. Social influence plays a part in Brazilian ethnic relations in business operations. In addition to the challenges inherent in business operations in Brazil, ethnic issues influence this dynamic, especially when it comes to fundraising activities, and relations with clients, suppliers and employees ( OLIVEIRA; PEREIRA; SOUZA, 2013).

Race relations are, therefore, an aspect of the social and historical context of Brazil that can shape organizations as spaces of social segregation. This is due to the fact that, throughout their history, many organizations have been constituted as spaces which are symbolically exclusive to particular social groups ( NASCIMENTO et al., 2015). In many of these spaces, discussions about race and problems affecting Blacks in society may not be well regarded.

The ethnic beauty salons are spaces that allow Blacks to discuss matters related to Afro hair.These salons play a key role in providing hair styling services to Black women, even promoting the empowerment of these women in the community.Despite the main purpose of these environments being to style their hair, when entering a salon, Blacks also find a place of refuge, in which they can share experiences. In addition, these spaces provide opportunities for Black entrepreneurs to set up their own businesses, thereby achieving some degree of economic freedom ( HARVEY, 2005; NIMOCKS, 2015).

Wingfield (2008) argues that systemic gender racism is a significant and important factor for the business experiences of Black women who primarily act as beauty salon owners.In this segment there are the ethnic beauty salons that have clearly defined their target audience as being Black, and who seek to conquer their clientele through discourse that brings together ethnic identity, Black beauty and solidarity through the appreciation of Afro hair.

These spaces are responsible for rescuing, producing and developing aesthetic and identity references that contrast with the Western hegemonic model of the West. Ethnic beauty salons are at the very core of the tensions that involve the construction of Black identity in Brazil, since "[...] in these spaces, Black identity as a process is problematized, discussed, affirmed, denied, concealed, rejected, accepted, re-signified and re-created" ( GOMES, 2002, p.179).

As Wingfield (2008) suggests, another factor impacting these issues is systemic gender racism, which induces business patterns among black women understood as "racially-minded economies". These, in turn, reflect on race and gender realities as systemic factors for the creation of unique entrepreneurial experiences often neglected by management training.

By branding themselves as "ethnic" and proclaiming themselves as promoters of a positive self-image of Blacks in a racist society, salons are at the center of a political and ideological struggle."The racial question, in a racist country, will always be political as well as ideological" ( GROSSI, 2005, p. 164), because to counteract racism is to oppose practices, attitudes and ideologies. It requires attitude and behavioral change ( GOMES, 2002).

For Sansone (2000), it is possible to communicate by means of hair, since it can be manipulated and adorned in different ways. There is a movement that recognizes the changes in portrayals of the Black body and Black hair, even though black hairis often represented as difficult hair.So, accepting natural, Afro hair that reflects the Black form contributes to the revolution of a Black aesthetics that helps re-signify Afro hair.

Hair is symbolic and assumes different meanings in the various dimensions of culture and Black lifestyle. In some cultures, it even has religious and spiritual overtones.In Africa, for example, hair was used to designate age, religion, social status and even marital status. Hair is intrinsically linked to the cultural identity of a people. During the period of Black slavery, with the express intention of dehumanizing the Africans, the Europeans cut the hair of the enslaved who arrived at the Americas. Cutting hair meant cutting off African culture. It also represented the removal of any vestige of African identity. Therefore, the removal of hair from those enslaved by their owners was the first method used to suppress their identity ( JOHNSON; BANKHEAD, 2013; SYNNOTT, 1987).

The social movements to strengthen Black identity contribute, in a certain way, to a new portrayal of Blacks and their hair.Such a change finds support through access to beauty spaces aimed at Black body and hair care, as well as changes in the way Blacks deal with the racial difference, inscribed on both their bodies and hair types.The handling of these aspects contextualizes and underpins the outcome of this qualitative study, whose methodological procedures and analysis of the data obtained are presented in the next session.

METHODOLOGICAL PROCEDURES AND DATA ANALYSIS

This qualitative study was conducted in five beauty salons located in the city of Belo Horizonte, in the state of Minas Gerais. These are classified by their entrepreneurs as spaces dedicated to the appreciation of Black aesthetics or African ethnic beauty, taking human diversity into account.

For the collection of data, moments of interaction in the beauty salons were observed, and interviews via oral history were also used ( GODOI; BANDEIRA-DE-MELLO; SILVA, 2006; VERGARA, 2005).The oral history interviews enabled the gathering of information on the enterprises, regarding the business as an extension of the lives of the subjects. The choice of oral history was justified by the requirement to listen to the stories of the subjects, to identify how they constructed meanings about themselves and narrated events from their lives, as well as the need to understand the contradictions (colonialities) in their narratives.

The interviews were conducted with three black businesswomen and two black businessmen, owners of beauty salons. In Table 1, we can see the profile of the interviewees. In order to preserve their identity, we chose to use fictitious names to represent them.

The data obtained was analysed using the Narrative Analysis method ( BASTOS; ANDRADE BIAR, 2015). Through these narratives, subjects were able to conveylife experiences from therethe construction of meaning about themselves.The stories told by the subjects allow us to comprehend events in social life.

Analysis categories: The categories of analysis that emerged from detailed reading and analysis of the narratives, seeking to identify shared meanings by the narrators in their discourse are: a) the salon with with space for discussion and Black militancy, and b) the constant struggle for the affirmation of the Black identity in the context of capitalism, emerging from the reading and detailed analysis of these narratives, seeking to identify meanings shared by the narrators in their words.At first, each interview was analyzed separately. The second time, the narratives were read in an integrated way, seeking to identify striking aspects and events that are on the trajectory and in the actual construction of the identity of the subjects.These aspects and events were flagged and denominated, respecting the words and expressions used by the interviewees. Thus, the first categories of analysis emerged. After the previous analysis, the discourses were regrouped in a smaller number of categories. This reduction was relevant to the research objective and was also consistent with the theoretical approach that supports this work.

The salon with space for discussion and Black militancy

The salons studied were mostly created to meet either a personal, or family need, related to both identity and survival. They represent the search for a place in the market that, historically, has been denied to Blacks.In addition to entering the labor market, the development of the knowledge, skills and confidence needed to conduct these projects have emerged within the family environment. All of the interviewees are Black and have grown up in Black families, where they experienced the specific need to care for Afro hair on a daily basis.Such questions have aroused interest in investing in businesses to serve this client-base, as exemplified in the following narratives:

Excerpt 1: José I went into the profession to meet a family need. I am one of seven siblings, four men and three women, and it was a constant disappointment when we went to the salon. The only way Mama could be happy with her hair was if she travelled long distances to look for people who always took care of hers and who, most of the time, were not working then or were only available whenever they wantedto. And when she put herself in the hands of anyone else, they could not control Afro hair. So it was necessary to solve the need at home. That's how I started the profession, I realized that a lot of the family had the same problem and my first clients were my own family (JOSÉ, 2016).

Excerpt 2: Joana I worked down here in the backyard for thirty years. I worked, like that,I started with family, worked on the hair of family members, worked on the hair of friends, you know [...] (JOANA, 2016).

Juliana (excerpt 3) reports that the motivation to open her own salon arose from the desire to offer potential clients a space in which no chemical products are used in Afro hair treatment or care.

Excerpt 3: Juliana I tried to enter into a dialogue with some salons in Belo Horizonte, so they would address that [Afro hair care without using chemicals that straighten hair] and they were very resistant. Not least, because, economically, financially, chemical treatments are the largest revenue source of the salon. So, if you give that up you give up money (JULIANA, 2016).

Of all the spaces analyzed, the Salon belonging to Juliana (excerpt 3) is the only one that does not offer chemical treatments to alter the structure of Afro hair, adopting a more radical posture. In the other Salons studied, although it is possible to undergo chemical processes that alter the hair structure, the first option to be offered to the client is always non-chemical treatments.There is a conversation with the client in order to show them the possibilities or choices of wearing using the strands of hair without any chemical process or even alternative hairstyles, which also refer to the concept of racial identity, as is the case with braids.

In most cases, however, the search for hair treatment offers the opportunity to discuss the meaning of hair, beauty standards, choices and self-esteem.Besides these issues, with this form of work, the salons also face standards related to the hegemonic business model by questioning or avoiding the use of chemicals.Chemical treatments are some of the core elements of the beauty industry: in addition to generating more revenue, they also generate patents when developing a new product.However, when using manual techniques for hair care, which are not widely available on the market, such as braids, there is a loss of revenue for the salon and the developer of the technique - if we compare with the option of using chemicals.

All interviewees had to deal with the difficulty of professional training to maintain their businesses. Although they have a lot of knowledge from practice and experience within the family, Black entrepreneurs have reported that they would like to have developed their skills on vocational courses - which does not detract from the knowledge and the way of organizing and undertaking their business ventures these professions ( CARRIERI; PERDIGÃO; AGUIAR, 2014).However, according to the narratives, the courses that existed either did not offer further development in the techniques of natural treatment of curly hair or were directed mainly to the processes of hair straightening, as Júlia reports in excerpt 4.

Excerpt 4: Julia So, you got there [the vocational courses], you had to learn how to straighten your hair. So, I straightened everything, straightened badly, because that stuff burned and then, I left that business like that, kind of, I said: "I do not want to mess with this business of straightening, no." And the teacher said, "No? if you do not do this straightening, you will not pass." So I stopped doing that, so much so that today, I do not straighten any kind of hair. I had temper tantrums to make that hair very straight. So, later, I analised the reason for my questioning. It was an excuse not to allow such straight hair. Because I did not have straight hair like that [...] (JULIA, 2016).

In the 4 th excerpt, Júlia affirms states that the professional courses that taught the care of Afro hair sought to perpetuate a 'white' beauty standard, according to which long, straight hair was seen to be beautiful hair ( SANTOS, 2000). Even so, Julia, in reporting that she "stopped doing that, so much so that today, I do not straighten any kind of hair" (excerpt 4), resists this coloniality, the Eurocentric standard, the power of which still determines various scopes of society. Quijano (1992) points out that this coloniality can press for imitation and reproduction, as occurred in the professional training course attended by Julia, which said that completion of the course was only possible by learning to straighten Afro hair.

As a result, entrepreneurs have had difficulties hiring people to work in salons. Often family members, people who shared the difficulties and the path of self-teaching, or people who were trained by owners within the salons themselves were hired.Two of the five salons offer training courses to the public who areinterested in learning how to care for Afro hair. Classes take place on Mondays, the only day that salons are not open. The courses are paid, but scholarships are also offered for students in need.

This is how many have become instructors in courses designed to meet the specific demands of a Black clientele. With all this, these spaces have proven to be more than simply places to take care of hair. In them, Black people share experiences and fight for greater racial acceptance, as reported by José, excerpt 5.

Excerpt 5: José For the Black, it was school [the salon was seen by the Black as a school]. And when there was a Black man in the chair who had the same attitude I had, he helped the other to understand. Because, many times, as I said, the greatest difficulty was not to make white people accept the new techniques and possibilities, theyhe did not. It was to make the Black man who had these troubled habits understand the possibilities he had. So he often asked difficult questions in an attempt to understand. And who helped him [client 1] to understand? It was another client [client 2]. It was not me, it was the client who had already understood. Then he would talk to the other client. So the interaction between clients of the same ethnicity, of the same habits, of the same type of hair, he [client 2] helped the other [client 1] to understand (JOSÉ, 2016).

In the narrative from Jose (excerpt 5), it can be seen that the experience in the salons contributes to a change of focus: Black clients are (now) not concerned with the acceptance of the white aesthetic standard, but with the mobilization of Blacks ( JAIME, 2016).This is a meaningful change when one thinks about the quest for whitening that many Blacks have undergone ( FANON, 2008): it is a movement opposed to this quest,to become who you are not.Today, Blacks (or Black clients) seek to rebuild their own identity based on aesthetic criteria which differ from hegemonic standards.

The Blacks who once had difficulties taking care of their hair in the so-called 'traditional salons' find a place where the natural look is valued in these spaces.José's narrative, excerpt 5, reveals a change in this reality; Afro salons were grantediven the status of a school, since "the interaction between clients of the same race, of the same habits, of the same type of hair" took place in them, and the subjects themselves"helped the other to understand" (excerpt 5).

Ethnic beauty parlours, while they are businesses (mercantile enterprises), they are also alternative spaces for the construction of a Afro beauty standard, since the discourses in these environments strengthen an ethnic and racial affirmation. In this way, these spaces of aesthetic appreciation play an important political role in the context of race relations established in Brazilian society ( GOMES, 2002; SANTOS, 2000).

The businesspeople and the clients who understand the movement care about showing new clients that they are beautiful with their natural hair.Thatstraight hair is an imposed beauty standard and that choosing to use natural hair should be an enlightened choice,and there should be no imposition or attitude where the aim is to become less Black (at least apparently).Accepting natural hair is a long process, one in which the person knows their own hair and rediscovers their racial identity simultaneously. The aspects that were once concealed as a consequence of the search for the white-European beauty standard ( FANON, 2008) have strengthened racial identity in this context. As Juliana (excerpt 6) shows, in narrating what motivated the creation of the salon:

Excerpt 6: Juliana [...] when I thought here [the salon], I thought," I do not want to sell 'solutions' for anybody's hair." Because hair is not a problem to be solved. We're going to make your hair be your hair. Yeah, and there are a couple of cool questions too. I attend militant women, who have always worried [...] But, so, always used natural hair, like this or that, will stopand have never attended the salon. And, for the first time, they found an environment where they feel at ease [...] And even here, in this environment, where everyone is always talking a lot and then, we discover and strengthen ourselves, right. It had become a network of articulation (JULIANA, 2016).

It is important to note that the search for natural hair does not happen suddenly. The use ofnatural hair occurs through a slow process of acceptance. Many women who had straightened their hair since childhood and who had accepted a whitened ideal of beauty sought the ethnic salons in search of perfect straightening. It can be seen in the narrative of Juliana (excerpt 6) that ethnic salons have become safe spaces, also, for those who are militant, from the Black movement, for example.

Corroborating José's narrative (excerpt 5), Juliana (excerpt 6) indicates that whether positioning themselves as militants or not, in ethnic salons, people can share experiences that strengthen their racial identity and talk about the struggles of Blacks in Brazilian society.

The salons aimed at the Afro public play a role breaking with stereotypes related to Afro hair and point out the need to develop aesthetic empowerment from the appreciation of the beauty of Blackness.The dynamics of the salons, narrated by the interviewees, reinforces the idea that hair is a symbol of resistance to racism. So, it is necessary to (re)discover the hair - the actual structure and texture of the strands without chemical processes, without changing it with a hot iron - and thus (re)build Black identity.

Excerpt 7: João A customer who comes upwith some stereotypical ideas about Afro hair, we explain. Oh, bad hair, bad hair, it has to be cut, it has to be soft, it has to be shaved. And we explain that he does not have bad hair, there is badly treated hair. So, each one has the hair of their ethnicity. And his Afro hair is not straight, it is tightly curled. It has volume, it has a life of its own, it has everything. We try to justify this in the person's mind so that they understand; Then after that, the person understands. 'Ah, that's right!,' my hair is like that, that's right. Nowadays, people are a little more accepting. (JOÃ0, 2016).

Arriving in ethnic salons with stereotypical ideas about Afro hair, such as "ah, bad hair has to be cut, it has to be soft, it has to be shaved". (excerpt 7), clients externalize what Fanon (2008) addresses as the inferiority complex suffered by Blacks.There is an epidermalization of inferiority, from which arises a need not to be Black. The 'epidermalization of inferiority' was used by Franz Fanon (2008) as a metaphor. The intention was to make the concept of the inferiority that Black people feel when relating to white people more didactic for him. In other words, it is the behaviors that emulate the white man. Thus, Blacks become slaves of their appearance.It can be seen that there is an attempt to reduce the social construction of Blacks to the opposite of the whites, leading them to elaborate a social-historical corporal scheme according to elements provided by the other, the white, and not by themselves ( FANON, 2008).

The constant struggle for the affirmation of the black identity in the capitalist context

Businesses targeting the Black public are promising an increase from 21.4 million people to 23.5 million (almost 10%) between 2003 and 2013 ( BEDÊ, 2015). Of these deals, 22% are in the hairdressing business.Despite this promising scenario, everything focused on Black beauty still suffers from a lot of prejudice, the subject addressed in this category of analysis. Even the business proposal (ethnic salons) is not well regarded, both by customers (whites) and by the beauty market itself. José (excerpt 9 and excerpt 10) and Joana (excerpt 11) flag the difficulties of owning a business aimed at the Black population.

Excerpt 9: José [...] We no longer had the shyness to assume [to assume the salon as a space for the Black public], to say [...] we saw that automatically we werelosing clientele [the white clients], and really, those who were not comfortable, were little by little evading. (JOSÉ, 2016).

Excerpt 10: José When they came in and found the salon full of jabuticaba [the term used by the Black community to characterize Black people], they would say: "your work is different, right?!" This word, different, one hurt in my heart hurt my soul. Is my work any different? (JOSÉ, 2016).

Excerpt 11: Joana It's really like facing a battle [...] Because discrimination is really insane. One day they talked to a teacher like this: "You're not going to the normal people's salon. It is not normal. They call me crazy, they call me stupid." (JOANA, 2016).

The image of ethnic salons is stigmatized. Skin is used as a key meaning for the cultural and racial differences that are established in the stereotype ( BHABHA, 1998). The white client and colleagues of the profession can not perceive the possibility of business when it is aimed at an audience that has been marginalized for years. There is a denial that Black-oriented products, services, or businesses are promising, despite the economic and social changes that Blacks have gone through. And entrepreneurs are branded as "dumb", "crazy" because they have to face the issue of non-professional and intellectual recognition to which Blacks are subjected ( JAIME, 2016).

In order to survive in this context,entrepreneurs resistthe logic of domination, and acceptthemselves as Black and as theadvocates of a cause. Due to the fact that they call themselves "ethnic" and take on the role of spreading and stimulating the positive self-image of Blacks in a racist society, the salons and their owners are at the center of a political and ideological struggle ( GOMES, 2002). This struggle has been evident since the entrepreneurs began searching for a space to rent and start operations, as Júlia says in excerpt 12.

Excerpt 12: Júlia My father had a car of his own, we have a house of our own, thank God and such [...] Then she asked theguarantor for rent. My father had ... He was this guarantor with income and property. Then she asked for another one with rent. Fine, I got it. Then she asked for a third. Then, I questioned her: Why a third?... if she told me that I need two guarantors? Then, she: "Ah [...], right!". Then I understood why, do you understand? Then, it is no use talkingsaying: oh, no!You who are prejudiced, racist. I was in [the name of a noble neighbourhood in the city of Belo Horizonte], a Black woman speaking of the salon, see?right, in 87 [1987], 86 [1986], speaking of the Afro salon. [...] Then, I arranged the third, which was my godfather, that hehas several rented houses. Then I got the third one and said, Here, look! Then, she looked and such and such: Oh, these properties are all his? They are all his. "And such and such [...] And then, okay!, she signed the papers and I have been here for thirty years (JÚLIA,2016).

Júlia (excerpt 12) recounts the obstacles that were created by a real estate agent when she tried to rent a space to open her Afro salon. Being Black and being in anupmarket neighbourhood of the city of Belo Horizonte - MG, talking about a business proposal aimed at the Black population, more than two guarantors (enough) were required of Julia so that she could rent the property. The suspicion, based on prejudice, made Julia have to work harder than expected to overcome all obstacles created by the real estate agent, and thus be able to rent the space ( OLIVEIRA; PEREIRA; SOUZA, 2013). As can be seen in João's account (excerpt 13).

Excerpt 13: João Black women sare getting better at accepting themselves, they want to arrive ata storeand buy stuff! So..., shop owners and business owners, they want money. It does not matter if they are Black or white, they want their money. Then they sell. But it's not because they want to sell to Black people, it makes no difference to them. If the could take their money and see no one, they would not see. I do not know if it's Black people's money that's different, I do not know. They think that Blacks don't drink milk, do not ride a car, do not parade, do not buy anything. But you get there with your money, even the people who have money, even imposing the financial power on top, have not yet accepted in this society, society does not accept." (JOÃO, 2016).

João's account (excerpt 13) portrays the appropriation and the distortion that the market makes of the demands of Black identity. Even in a capitalist society in which it is possible to achieve some degree of purchasing power, the Negro remains discriminated against. João's narrative (excerpt 13) shows that, even with purchasing power, Blacks are still not treated as consumers (or when they are, they shouldconsume products that have been made for other consumer profiles). Hence, they receive little attention from the beauty market and are treated as inferior, including their demands. This contradiction is sustained through the coloniality of power ( QUIJANO, 2005), which, by classifying people based on racial hierarchies, associates Black men and women with certain social positions.

From the point of view of consumption, there have been changes, and Blacks have been treated in a new way, as João (excerpt 13) points out, saying that store owners and entrepreneurs seek money and are willing to pay for products, for example, there is currently a variety of products for Afro and Curly hair. In this way, many female entrepreneurs sell, for different reasons that include not offering the Black public something that has been taken away from them, like a treatment that reinforces their racial identity, but by foreseeing the laws of capitalism, where supply and demand generate revenue.

It is necessary to analyzethat the traditional market was directed to the standards of hegemonic beauty and not to the specific demands of Blacks. That is, there is an even greater dispute for a Black population that can - thanks to several conquests - consume.

Excerpt 14: Joana [...] I'm telling you that I heard: "What day, Joana, are you going to stop working for Blacks, poor? [...] That I saw a businessman [...] a person saying: Blacks don't even have the money to buy soap, how will they buy imported products?" (JOANA, 2016).

Excerpt 15: Juliana [...] there, the supplier, like... that, he does not understand how you're going to sustain the business without messing with chemicals (treatment). So, no [...], but there's this one. It does not smell. Honey, the problem is not the smell. The problem is that my clients already have wonderful hair and they do not need chemicals. No! But isn't it bad hair that you work with? No, bad hair [...] Here, we do not work with bad hair, no. We work with hair. Understand? We work with hair.People think that Black people don't have money to buy any products that cost more than ten reais. (JULIANA, 2016).

Even perceiving a change in the consumption patterns of the Black clientele, suppliers and the market itself still see this audience as people with no consumption potential. This way of seeing Blacks, linking racial identity with an economic profile, reflects the arbitrariness and difficulties encountered when starting a business in Brazil ( OLIVEIRA; PEREIRA; SOUZA, 2013). For Black entrepreneurs, there are even more obstacles in our society and they areperpetuated to this day. After the end of slavery, the Blacks, who were totally subject to the slave system, assumed the role of the unemployed or migrated to less skilled jobs. As a consequence, they acquired a lower income (wages) ( MACIEL; GRILLO, 2009).

Over the years, Blacks,have achieved plenty and improved the situation.However, there is still animaginarycoloniality,onein which all Blacks are poor and, therefore, it is not advantageous to work for them, since they cannot afford to buy soap, for example, as Joana reports in excerpt 14. The capitalist system feeds and reproduces prejudice and racism when using such arguments to classify a business, an entrepreneur or a consumer.

Contrary to this imaginary in the consumer environment, Blacks want to acquire products and services developed specifically for them. However, the market, the industries, and the stores are not concerned with meeting the demands of Blacks as potential consumers. It is because of this fact that, formerly, there were few hair products for this audience. Nevertheless, today the capitalist system has incorporated this criticism and offers a range of products for Afro and curly hair on store shelves.

Excerpt 16: José I saw a megahair being made in the front, an African braid being made in the middle, another cool style there, another there doing a job to be able to curl with a product that was not so fragrant, because unfortunately, the products to work with frizzy, Afro hair are not perfumedlike white hair products (JOSÉ, 2016).

Even with the same financial resources and demand for goods, Afro hair products are of poorer quality. The market appropriates the demands of Blacks and offers them a single chemical product with attributes inferior to those developed for white consumers. The problem of the products goesbeyond the bad smell mentioned by José (excerpt 16) and Juliana (excerpt 15). According to Nimocks (2015), many women suffer from the products used to straighten the curly strands, since they have chemicals that can cause problems ranging from scalp burns to serious healthissues, such as cancer.

Ethnic beauty salons, with all their potential for change and support for the construction of racial identity (or, perhaps, precisely because of this), face difficulties that permeate several areas, such as: (a) the profile of their clients - rooted in hegemonic standards; (b) the market - in the resistance of service providers and suppliers that insist on not recognizing the rights of entrepreneurs, by offering them low quality products; (c) the competitors - that disqualify the initiatives. All these attitudes reinforce the hegemonic standards of beauty.

FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

This study sought to understand how Black entrepreneurs of specialized beauty salons resist the logic of subordinacy and contribute to the construction of racial identity. The prejudice in Brazil is not broken by the performance of the ethnic salons nor the acceptance of Afro hair, what has happened is the emergence of a culture that has been silenced for a long time. In this movement, Blacks demonstrate the need to have their demands met and their identity respected.

The ethnic salons are spaces that allow the care of Afro hair to the group of various Blacks who have this demand in common. In these spaces, such clients are taught to know their hair in its natural form and there is a process of deconstruction of established aesthetic standards. Thus, ethnic beauty salons also present themselves as a form of resistance to coloniality insofar as they produce, reproduce, and maintain specific knowledge outside the dominant capitalist axis.

Developing a study with and within the environment of ethnic salons empirically strengthens the project, developed from the notion of coloniality of power. This project indicates the need to recover stories hitherto silenced by the dynamics of Modernity/rationality. With actions in this sense, subjectivities hitherto repressed and knowledge that had a subaltern status gain status as protagonists.

From the analysis of all the categories selected in this study, a struggle for the acceptance of Afro hair is observed, which reflects in greater racial acceptance since it is as external as the color of the skin. Thus, by taking on their natural style, Black men and women move toward ethnic-racial acceptance. Accepting Afro hair is a big step toward the self-acceptance of subjects as Blacks.

In describing their own family relationships, it is noted in the interviewees' narratives that the reasons that support entrepreneurship arise from personal needs, they represent a movement from the interior of those researched to their exterior. Experiencing the difficulty of the mothers/grandmothers themselves when dealing with Afro hair has aroused interest in creating a business aimed at this public, which has little choice of salons when it comes to dealing with natural Afro hair and not just the chemical treatment of the hair.

Despite the political power that the consciousness of the processes of coloniality has, it is not totally successful. By assuming Afro or natural hair, Black women and men demonstrate the appreciation of a phenotype denied since slavery. The Afro hair assumes the status of the protagonist in the fight for humanization and respect towards the other, towards those that are not white and represent more than half of the Brazilian population.In observing this new demand, Black entrepreneurs have idealized businesses that are characterized as ethnic salons, that is, beauty salons that have the Afro public as their target audience. In these environments, Blacks are taught to take care of their natural hair and relate to others who have experiences in common. The salons support a social articulation that seeks to value and appreciate Black racial identity.

In view of the importance of ethnic salons for the construction of the Black racial identity, they are considered inadequate in the capitalist context. It is difficult to perceive and accept a space that is aimed at the Black population as a viable business proposal, especially when the entrepreneur is Black.

Keeping an establishment like this open is a cry of resistance, which sheds light on the need to break through imposed standards. Every day, within the salon itself, the owners face prejudice. Every day, when they stop buying chemicals that straighten hair and thereby contradict the whitened standards of the fashion industry, they face ethnic hierarchy.

REFERENCES

ALCADIPANI, R. et al. Southern voices in management and organization knowledge. Organization, v. 19, n. 2, p. 131-143, 2012.

AUSTIN, G. The burden of being Black. Delta Winds: A Magazine of Student Essays, v. 17, p. 10-13, 2004.

BALLESTRIN, L. América Latina e o giro decolonial. Revista Brasileira de Ciência Política, n. 11, p. 89-117, 2013.

BALLESTRIN, L. Modernidade/Colonialidade sem "Imperialidade"? O Elo Perdido do Giro Decolonial. Dados, v. 60, n. 2, p. 505-540, 2017.

BASTOS, L. C.; ANDRADE BIAR, L. Análise de narrativa e práticas de entendimento da vida social. DELTA: Documentação e Estudos em Linguística Teórica e Aplicada, v. 31, n. 4, 2015.

BEDÊ, A. Os Donos de Negócio no Brasil: Análise por Raçar/Cor (2003-2013). Series Estudos e Pesquisas. Brasília: Sebrae, 2015.

BERNARDINO-COSTA, J. Colonialidade e Interseccionalidade: o trabalho doméstico no Brasil e seus desafios para o século XXI. In: SILVA, T. D.; GOES, F. L. (orgs.). Igualdade racial no Brasil: reflexões no Ano Internacional dos Afrodescendentes. Brasília: Ipea, p. 45-58, 2013.

BHABHA, H. K. A outra questão: o estereótipo, a discriminação e o discurso do colonialismo. In: BHABHA, H. K. O local da cultura. Belo Horizonte: Ed. UFMG, p. 105-128, 1998.

CARRIERI, A. de P.; PERDIGÃO, D. A.; AGUIAR, A. R. C. A gestão ordinária dos pequenos negócios: outro olhar sobre a gestão em estudos organizacionais. R. Adm. São Paulo, v. 49, n. 4, p. 698-713, 2014.

CHADAREVIAN, P. C. Para medir as desigualdades raciais no mercado de trabalho. Revista de Economia Política, v. 31, n. 2122, p. 283-304, 2011.

DUSSEL, E. Europa, modernidade e eurocentrismo. In: LANDER, E. (org.). A Colonialidade do Saber: eurocentrismo e ciências sociais. Perspectivas latino-americanas. Colección Sur Sur, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Clacso, p. 55-70, 2005.

DUSSEL, E.; IBARRA-COLADO, E. Globalization, Organization and the Ethics of Liberation. Organization , v. 13, n. 4, p. 489-508, 2006.

FANON, F. Pele negra, máscaras brancas. Trad. Renato da Silveira. Salvador: Ed. EDUFBA, 2008.

FERNANDES, V.; SOUZA, M. C. Identidade Negra entre exclusão e liberdade. Revista do Instituto de Estudos Brasileiros, n. 63, 2016.

GODOI, C. K.; BANDEIRA-DE-MELLO, R.; SILVA, A. B. da. Pesquisa qualitativa em estudos organizacionais: paradigmas, estratégias e métodos. São Paulo: Saraiva, v. 2, 2006.

GOMES, N. L. Educação, identidade negra e formação de professores/as: um olhar sobre o corpo negro e o cabelo crespo. Educação e Pesquisa, v. 29, n. 1, p. 167-182, 2003.

GOMES, N. L. Trajetórias escolares, corpo negro e cabelo crespo: reprodução de estereótipos ou ressignificação cultural? Revista Brasileira de Educação, n. 21, p. 40-51, 2002.

GROSSI, M. Movimentos sociais, educação e sexualidades. Rio de Janeiro: Garamond, 2005.

HARVEY, A. M. Becoming entrepreneurs: Intersections of race, class, and gender at the black beauty salon. Gender &Society, v. 19, n. 6, p. 789-808, 2005.

IBARRA-COLADO, E. Organization studies and epistemic coloniality in Latin America: thinking otherness from the margins. Organization, v. 13, n. 4, p. 463-488. 2006.

JAIME, P. Executivos negros: Racismo e diversidade no mundo empresarial. São Paulo: Fapesp, 2016.

JOHNSON, T. A.; BANKHEAD, T. Hair it is: Examining the experiences of Black women with natural hair. Open Journal of Social Sciences, v. 2, n. 01, 2013.

LANDER, E. (org.). A Colonialidade do Saber: eurocentrismo e ciências sociais. Perspectivas latino-americanas . Colección Sur Sur, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Clacso, 2005.

LUGONES, M. Rumo a um feminismo descolonial. Estudos Feministas, v. 22, n. 3, p. 935-952, 2015.

MACIEL, F.; GRILLO, A. O Trabalho que (In)dignifica o Homem. In: SOUZA, J. A Ralé Brasileira: quem é e como vive. Belo Horizonte: Editora UFMG, p. 241- 278, 2009.

MALDONADO-TORRES, N. Sobre la colonialidad del ser: contribuciones al desarrollo de un concepto. In: CASTRO-GÓMEZ, S.; GROSFOGUEL, R. El giro decolonial. Reflexiones para una diversidad epistémica más allá del capitalismo global. Bogotá: Siglo del Hombre Editores; Universidad Central, p. 127-167, 2007.

MAPEDZAHAMA, V.; KWANSAH-AIDOO, K. Blackness as Burden? The Lived Experience of Black Africans in Australia. SAGE Open, v. 7, n. 3, 2017.

MIGNOLO, W. D. A colonialidade de cabo a rabo: o hemisfério ocidental no horizonte conceitual da modernidade. In: LANDER, E. (org.). A Colonialidade do Saber: eurocentrismo e ciências sociais. Perspectivas latino-americanas. Colección Sur Sur, Buenos Aires,Argentina: Clacso , 2005.p. 35-54.

MIGNOLO, W. D. Delinking: The rhetoric of modernity, the logic of coloniality and the grammar of de-coloniality. Cultural studies, v. 21, n. 2-3 , p. 449-514, 2007.

MISOCZKY, M. C.; AMANTINO-DE-ANDRADE, J. Uma crítica à crítica domesticada nos estudos organizacionais. Revista de Administração Contemporânea, v. 9, n. 1, p. 193-210, 2005.

NASCIMENTO, M. et al. Com que Cor Eu Vou pro Shopping que Você me Convidou? RAC-Revista de Administração Contemporânea , v. 19, p. 245-268, 2015.

NELSON, T.; CARDEMIL, E. V.; ADEOYE, C. T. Rethinking Strength. Psychology of Women Quarterly, v. 40, n. 4, p. 551-563, 2016.

NIMOCKS, J. M. The Natural Hair Movement as a Platform for Environmental Education. 2015. Senior These (Bachelor of Arts Degree in Environmental Analysis), Pomona College, Claremont, California, 2015.

OLIVEIRA, J. S.; PEREIRA, J. A.; SOUZA, M. C. D. Empreendedorismo, cultura e diversidade: a participação dos empreendedores negros nas atividades empreendedoras no Brasil no período de 1990 a 2008. Revista Contemporânea de Economia e Gestão, v. 11, n. 2, p. 7-30, 2013.

PATTILLO, M. Negotiating Blackness, for Richer or for Poorer. Ethnography, v. 4, n. 1, p. 61-93, 2003.

PRASAD, A. The Gaze of the Other: Postcolonial Theory and Organization al Analysis. In: PRASAD, A. Postcolonial Theory and Organization al Analysis: a critical engagement. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, p. 3-43. 2003.

QUIJANO, A. Colonialidade do poder, eurocentrismo e America Latina. In: LANDER, E. (org.). A Colonialidade do Saber: eurocentrismo e ciências sociais. Perspectivas latino-americanas . Colección Sur Sur, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Clacso , 2005.

QUIJANO, A. Notas sobre a questão da identidade e nação no Peru. Estudos Avançados, v. 6, n. 16, p. 73-80, 1992.

QUIJANO, A . Colonialidad del poder, cultura y conocimiento en América Latina. Dispositio, v. 24, n. 51, p. 137-148, 1999.

QUIJANO, A . Coloniality and Modernity/Rationality. Cultural Studies, v. 21, n. May 2012, p. 168-178, 2007.

QUIJANO, A .; WALLERSTEIN, I. Americanity as a 'Concept, or the Americas in the Modern World. International Social Science Journal, v. 44, n. 4, p. 549-557, 1992.

ROSA, A. R. Relações raciais e estudos organizacionais no Brasil. RAC-Revista de Administração Contemporânea , v. 18, n. 3, p. 240-260, jun. 2014.

ROSA, A. R.; ALCADIPANI, R. A terceira margem do rio dos estudos críticos sobre administração e organizações no Brasil: (re)pensando a crítica a partir do pós-colonialismo. RAM - Rev. Adm. Mackenzie, v. 14, n. 6, p. 185-215, 2013.

SAID, E. W. Orientalismo: o Oriente como invenção do Ocidente. São Paulo: Editora Companhia das Letras, 2007.

SANSONE, L. Os objetos da identidade negra: consumo, mercantilização, globalização e a criação de culturas negras no Brasil. Mana, v. 6, n. 1, p. 87-119, 2000.

SANTOS, J. T. D. O negro no espelho: imagens e discursos nos salões de beleza étnicos. Estud. Afro-asiát.[online]. n.38, p.49-65, 2000.

SOUZA, A. América Latina, conceito e identidade: algumas reflexões da história. PRACS: Revista Eletrônica de Humanidades do Curso de Ciências Sociais da UNIFAP, v. 4, n. 4, p. 29-39, 2012.

SYNNOTT, A. Shame and glory: a sociology of hair. The British Journal of Sociology, v. 38, n. 3, p. 381-413, 1987.

THOMPSON, C. Black women, beauty, and hair as a matter of being. Women's Studies, v. 38, n. 8, p. 831-856, 2009.

VERGARA, S. C. Métodos de Pesquisa em Administração. São Paulo: Editora Atlas, 2005. 287p.

WALSH, C. "Other" Knowledges, "Other" Critiques: Reflections on the Politics and Practices of Philosophy and Decoloniality in the "Other" America. TRANSMODERNITY: Journal of Peripheral Cultural Production of the Luso-Hispanic World, v. 1, n. 3, 2012.

WINGFIELD, A. H. Doing business with beauty: Black women, hair salons, and the racial enclave economy. US: Rowman & Littlefield, 2008.

Notes

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Black entrepreneurship and ethnic beauty salons: possibilities forresistance in the social (re)construction of black identity

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This paper addresses the case of five lack entrepreneurs who own businesses a public that for years has denied a esthetic and phenotypic traits. These spaces...

# data[].attributes.body
Talks about how black women cant do their hair certain ways for a job without Being questioned or feel like they can’t. "I think in particular when you talk about black hair styles there's a particular history about how professionalism has been weaponized against natural black hair styles," said Evan's client George Lee

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Members of the Black community in Oklahoma City and across the country say they see bias and misconceptions in workplaces when it comes to the way they style their hair.

People around the country are trying to break those stereotypes, including local hairstylist Tanieka Evans.

"In the beginning it just started off with me just helping my brother and my dad," said Evans.

Now Evans has been taking people on their locks journey for over a decade. To Evans what she does is an art form, but she knows that's not how everyone feels about dreads.

"A lot of times when I have clients start their locks or decide to start, the question I ask is what took you so long to start or what is holding you back," said Evans. "The first response is 'I work in the corporate world...'"

She's trying to break that misconception by using tools like social media and photography. In recent years Evans has helped with shoots focusing specifically on showcasing successful black men with dreads.

"All of the clients I used have their own business," said Evans. They are very successful men."

She hopes these visuals can help spark change, but the stylist said the issue goes beyond locks to other styles. Evans said this even includes natural black hair.

"It's nothing new, but for me it's a way to tell somebody how they have to do something," said Evans.

"I think in particular when you talk about black hair styles there's a particular history about how professionalism has been weaponized against natural black hair styles," said Evan's client George Lee.

"I've heard through other people what certain news directors said about me, and they wouldn't even interview me because I had curly hair," said former News 9 reporter Jessi Mitchell.

Bias and the misconceptions surrounding natural black hair is something Mitchell has seen on an amplified level as a broadcast journalist, working her way up to CBS.

"We've been told to fit this mold by people that don't look like us, and we're starting to find our voice," said Mitchell.

Recently other reporters and anchors around the country took the conversation to social media, posting pictures doing their job with various hairstyles.

"I'm not the first black woman to wear braids on air," said WMBD Investigative Reporter and Anchor Treasure Roberts. "I don't want to take that credit, but my tweet went viral."

Back in August, Roberts posted a tweet that shared her experience with a news director and her decision to wear braids on air. The tweet has now been shared tens of thousands of times.

"I believe that no matter how I wear my hair I'm a good journalist," said Roberts.

She's hoping her message inspires others to break the box society has built.

"I am pretty brave, and this does take a lot of guts," said Roberts. "But I would say be unapologetically you, and then people that like you for who you are, you will attract those people."
Editor's Note: News 9 is part of a local initiative that brings all of our local media outlets together to give Oklahoma a United Voice in promoting a healthy dialogue on race. To see more stories, visit UnitedVoiceOK.org.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Black Women Working To Break Hair Style Stereotypes In The Workplace

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Members of the Black community in Oklahoma City and across the country say they see bias and misconceptions in workplaces when it comes to the way they style their hair. People around the country are trying to break those stereotypes, including local hairstylist Tanieka Evans.

# data[].attributes.body
-Many people don’t make it a lifetime career
-they can’t make enough money within their first year
-the drama

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
W e need to identify and address the dark side of the beauty profession many challenges of sa if we are to find solutions to salon /spa ownership.

Jon Gonzales With over 43 years as experience as a salon owner/hairdresser and now President of Hairdresser Career Development Systems and Creator of my University of Educational Excellence for Beauty Professionals, I want to thank everyone for your trust and support. To view my background, my real world experience as a working hairdresser & salon owner and now an educator, I invite you to Click Here.
As you are well aware, there are a lot of changes and uncertainty occurring within our profession; sadly the beauty profession has not adapted to changes needed to compete with other' professions. Salon Owners are especially being hit hard. This is also affecting our workers standard of living as well.

Before we can find solutions to the many challenges owners and hairdressers face every day, we have to have the courage to identify the dark side of our profession, and ask the question "Why Is This Occurring"?

Our industry is expected to grow to a 55 billion dollar a year industry. However, the special interest groups are garnering the bulk of the industry dollars and hairdressers, salon owners and beauty professionals working daily in the trenches are not sharing enough in this growth.

Sadly, many salons are failing at an alarming rate:

Studies tell us only 7% of salons make it beyond 7 years

Many salon owners are entering into booth rental just to survive

Hairdresser earnings are $20,000 to $25,000 per year

7 out of ten newcomers leave the profession within 3 years

The price of our salon services keep falling

Many beauty schools are closing

The massive growth of low-cost hair cut franchises keep rising

Should we not be raising prices to keep even with the rising cost of living?

New complex labor laws are making owning a business more challenging.

Beauty Industry Challenges Continue To Grow & Here's Why

In an effort to help find solutions to these challenges, I have listed some of the causes of the challenges below:

Rising Business Costs - As costs continue to rise, profits...if any...go down, affecting not only business, but also the standard of living for our staff. The answer is to raise prices.But before we can raise prices we must develop high end salons and high end professionals so we can create a demand for our services.

Profitability - How can we provide incentives,benefits mentoring,education,and cost effective advertising without profits.

Why is it so Difficult to Find Workers - It starts at the beauty school level. Low entrance requirements, poor teacher training, the need to attract more quality people into our profession, a curriculum that is outdated and does not meet job market and consumer demands.

Apathy and Indifference among Salon Owners - Far too many salon owners are indifferent and in denial. They resist change because it is easier to stay in the their comfort zone. There is a lack of business management skills, lack of leadership training and an unwillingness to change.

Perhaps this is one of the reasons hairdressers change jobs. Sometimes we as salon owners should look in the mirror.

No Unity Among Salon Owners - We have no opportunity to voice our educational and business needs.

Most associations are run by product companies. I would like to see an Association for Salon Owners! Pleased to say I am working on our own Alliance Network for Salon Owners.

Minimum Wage and Overtime Mandates - Salon owners are being targeted by our state and federal agencies for violating the labor law rights of their workers. Minimum wage attorneys are coming out of the wood work encouraging workers to make sure employers are not violating the labor law rights of workers.

Lack of an Apprenticeship Program - Young hair stylists & beauty professionals need hands-on experience on real people. Allowing young salon staff to gain experience on customers at the same prices of your experienced hair stylists will compromise your client retention efforts.

Refer to my Junior Stylist Training Program, .

The Danger of Misclassification of Workers - This is a very gray area of the law that needs to be clarified by our government taxing agencies. The penalties are severe if you lose an audit.

Staff Turnover - This is an area of concern due to booth rental. Training hair stylists and beauty professionals only to lose them to a booth rental environment can be devastating.

Frivolous Law Suits - In addition to being targeted by our taxing agencies, customers are filing lawsuits for toxic chemicals.

An Unequal Playing field - Many salon owners are victims of a growing underground economy. Most are being penalized for paying their taxes and following the rules of honesty and a code of ethics. Pirating of another salon owner's staff must stop. If everyone played by the rules we all would prosper! I will probably offend some people; if honesty and and a code of ethics is wrong, I'm guilty.

No business can grow with business instability.

Lack of Quality Education - Most of our beauty industry education is geared to the needs of product companies disguised as education.

Poor Business Management Skills - Excellence does start at the top and a lack of business management skills is one of the leading causes of turnover and business failure.

How To Turn The Beauty Industry Around

1. I invite you to read my recent blog post on how to reform our beauty industry educational system with my suggestions on how we can turn our beauty professions & industry around. Click here to read the recent blog.

2. If you are concerned with growing challenges in the beauty industry, I urge you to attend my two day Salon Owner Business Seminar in Las Vegas on September 11-12, 2016. I will unveil solutions to the above challenges. Just click here for complete business seminar details and registration info.

There Is A Bright Side To The Beauty Profession

Next week, I'll blog about solutions to the growing challenges in the beauty industry and the bright side of our professions!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Beauty Profession Dark Side & Why It's Occurring

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
We need to identify and address the dark side of the beauty profession many challenges of saif we are to find solutions to salon/spa ownership. Jon Gonzales With over 43 years as experience as a salon owner/hairdresser and now President of Hairdresser Career

# data[].attributes.headline
Cosmetology schools need to start teaching students textured hair services, care for curls, and look deeper into finding styles for other races and religion 

# data[].attributes.subject
Cosmetology schools need to start teaching students textured hair services, care for curls, and look deeper into finding styles for other races and religion 

# data[].attributes.body
Subtopic 5

# data[].attributes.headline
How can we break racial stereotypes in salons   

# data[].attributes.subject
How can we break racial stereotypes in salons   

# data[].attributes.body
Subtopic 4

# data[].attributes.headline
The dark side of salons and being in the beauty industry 

# data[].attributes.subject
The dark side of salons and being in the beauty industry 

# data[].attributes.body
Subtopic 3

# data[].attributes.headline
The Hairstyling Industry Has a Racism Problem, and It Starts With Beauty School 

# data[].attributes.subject
The Hairstyling Industry Has a Racism Problem, and It Starts With Beauty School 

# data[].attributes.body
This article talks about the experience of African American clients and hairstylist and how difficult it can be to walk into one and just get a blowout and wash. Many cosmetology schools do not teach textured hair styles, cutting, and shaping. Many people believe this should be taught in schools because everyone is allowed to walk into a hair salon and expect the best services a hairstylist can give.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Last month, activist, speaker, and public academic Rachel Cargle shared the feedback she offered a salon owner after a profoundly horrible-and illuminating-experience she'd had at one of their salons.

"I encourage you to take into deep consideration that your Black employees are working twice as hard (PERFECTING how to do Black hair as well as white hair) and your Black clients are getting half the service-sitting in your chairs worried that their stylist may not be equipped and then, in some instances like mine, we are walking out feeling completely exhausted regarding why we have to have such an irregular experience doing something so simple as getting our hair washed and blown out," Cargle wrote. "Unless you are having each stylist prove competency in textured hair, unless your Black employees express that they feel safe and protected against white aggressions from customers and colleagues, unless a Black client can walk in feeling they have as much of a chance to feel beautiful when they leave as a white woman would...unless these are all truths than yes, Black people are indeed simply second hand customers because nothing about your salons proves otherwise."

Cargle's experience highlights the ways in which systematic racism is a driving force within the hair-salon industry and how it impacts Black individuals, whether as employees or paying customers. Her writing provides a succinct overview of a problem that needs to be addressed on a fundamental level. Ask any Black hairstylist and they'll tell you the root of the issue is lack of education. The disparity begins in beauty school and then filters up to salons and editorial sets, ultimately presenting at a macro level in ad campaigns and TV shows and on red carpets.

While it differs from state to state in the U.S., a hairstylist typically needs a high school degree or GED credential to apply to cosmetology school and, once admitted into a program, is usually enrolled for 9 to 12 months before graduating with an associate's degree in cosmetology. Then, to work as a professional hairstylist, a hairdressing license is required. After completing an accredited training program and accumulating set hours of training, the final step is a hairstylist license exam.

In terms of the courses and curriculum, there is a dramatic lack of exposure to textured hair. "In the beauty schools, you don't learn how to do texture," says celebrity hairstylist Tippi Shorter. "You really only learn how to do the bare minimum, understanding color theory and how to do basic haircuts and a basic blow-dry, to pass a board exam to get your license. I went to school for 1,600 hours, and we probably spent about five of those hours working on hair that wasn't naturally straight. So as a stylist, you come out with very basic knowledge, and it's not a culture that speaks to texture because their whole philosophy is about making hair straight."

As anyone with textured hair knows, this ideology extends into the salon system, where insufficient education and an ingrained blowout-or-bust mentality makes for a lesser experience-one that disproportionately impacts Black women. This is especially true for blow-dry bars, which by nature of their singular service offerings, don't cater to all textures. "Their whole thing is whatever you got, let's fix it," explains Shorter. "Your hair is crazy, big, curly, or kinky, and they're here to blow it and 'make it better' by straightening. It's not good, it's not right, but it's their business model."

Along with a lack of care and appreciation for textured-haired clients at most salons comes extra labor for the hairstylists who do know how to cater to these textures. "When a customer with textured hair walks in-and I don't necessarily mean a Black customer walking in, I mean anyone who has waves, curls, or coils-salons often look to their hairstylists of color, like African Americans or Latinas, to service these clients," Shorter explains. "That's really where the segregation of hair begins."

It's these issues that led Shorter to cofound the Texpert Collective, a platform that hinges on textured hairstyling as a standard, not a specialty, and offers workshops and training events to help equip stylists with tools and skills to work with curls, coils, and waves. Earlier this week, Shorter hosted the Textured Hair Elevated summit, where 12 Black hairstylists came together to provide a full day of textured-hair education on cuts, color, and styling, with all proceeds benefitting the Black Lives Matter movement. Joining Shorter during her session was Naeemah LaFond, hairstylist and global artistic director of Amika. "It was incredible to see so many non-Black artists signing up and excited to soak up the information," says LaFond. "I love the willingness to learn and do better, and that energy is exactly what we need more of."

Amid the recent acts of racial injustice, LaFond-inspired by activist Tamika Mallory's now viral speech-shared an actionable guide for the hair-care industry on how brands and industry decision-makers can support Black hairstylists. One of the major pillars of the guide was better education about natural and textured hair. "It's important to not only hold stylists and salon owners accountable but also the system that perpetuates the problem," explains LaFond. "So many Black women have had the horrible experience of sitting in a stylist's chair who is terrified to touch their tresses and doesn't even know what to do or where to begin. There is a very basic level of knowledge that is lacking. The educational systems exclude natural texture and have operated without having to cater to all hair types for this long, [while] it's the entire beauty industry that suffers for it."

Aisha Gatlin, founder of the Beautiful Luxe School of Cosmetology in Ann Arbor, Michigan, is offering an example of what the industry's improved future might look like. As a salon owner, she struggled for years to find stylists who knew how to work with textured hair. So she took matters into her own hands, opening up her own institution. "Most stylists had graduated from local cosmetology schools that only catered to one hair type, which left them unknowledgeable in textured hair," explains Gatlin. "I've heard far too many stories of people being turned away from salons because a stylist didn't know how to work with textured hair. No other schools were making it a priority to teach proper styling techniques for textured hair, so I decided to open my open school." In addition to teaching all that's required by the state board, the Beautiful Luxe School of Cosmetology offers a curriculum that emphasizes textured hair, taking it beyond the basics by teaching students how to braid, silk press natural hair, start and maintain locs, install sew-in extensions, and create other natural-hair twist sets.

Gatlin underlines that catering to all textures isn't just a matter of basic integrity for salon owners; it's also increasingly necessary as the U.S. becomes more racially diverse. "The salon system as a whole needs an overhaul because we have so many mixed races, which ultimately produces mixed hair textures," she explains. Gatlin hopes that expanding curricula in beauty schools-and in turn, expertise in salons-will help lay the groundwork for better representation on a mass scale too. "Through the years, TV, film, and red carpets have shown that [many] stylists aren't properly trained to style all hair," says Gatlin. "It's almost laughable at times to see the wigs ill-fitting or bad hairstyling jobs."

While major strides still need to be made, celebrity hairstylists like Lacy Redway have been bringing about a seismic shift on both the editorial and red-carpet fronts. Much of Redway's work-her directional collaborations with Tessa Thompson, Zazie Beetz, and Amandla Stenberg, in particular-celebrates and showcases the versatility of natural hair. As one of Hollywood's most in-demand hairstylists, she's proven time and time again that she's seasoned in doing hair of all textures, yet she still doesn't have the same opportunities as other lead hairstylists in the industry. "As Black hairstylists, we've mastered our own hair texture and then have to prove that we can do everybody else's hair," she explains. "There's not the same level of expectation for all the top hairdressers, who are all white European men getting the access to the biggest campaigns, the biggest magazine covers, the biggest fashion shows. Besides Pat McGrath, I never was able to see any Black women in that space, succeeding at certain levels that are limited to people of color."

To address these gaps, Redway, alongside stylists Law Roach and Jason Rembert, has spearheaded the Black Fashion and Beauty Collective, a new nonprofit organization that unites leading fashion stylists, hairstylists, and makeup artists to foster education and career advancement opportunities for aspiring Black creatives. "Through my success, my objective has always been to make sure that I create opportunities for other people that look like me within the hair space," Redway says.

In her guide, LaFond echoed the call for better support and more representation of Black hairstylists at the top, stressing the importance of creating equal opportunity ("Don't only hire Black freelancers when you have Black talent/models-we can do it all!" she says), normalizing Black creatives as key players in the editorial world with proper accreditation, and tapping Black hairstylists as leading hair specialists and educators beyond the confines of textured hair. "Communication and hard conversations are always the first step towards growth and forward movement, so this has been a much-needed first step," says LaFond of pushing the hairstyling industry forward, beginning with upending the education system and eliminating bias in the salon. "Being honest about deep-rooted issues in an industry that you currently work in can be risky, but seeing the outpouring of interest and support for texture education from non-Black hair stylists makes me excited for the future of our industry. We should all be invested in making sure that artists are fully equipped to work in this industry and service all hair types."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The Hairstyling Industry Has a Racism Problem, and It Starts With Beauty School

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Systematic racism is a driving force within the hairstyling industry, and the root of the issue is a lack of textured-hair education.

# data[].attributes.headline
racism is becoming a huge issue in the cosmetology industry 

# data[].attributes.subject
racism is becoming a huge issue in the cosmetology industry 

# data[].attributes.body
Subtopic 2

# data[].attributes.headline
What are ways we can reduce or stop racism in the cosmetology industry

# data[].attributes.subject
What are ways we can reduce or stop racism in the cosmetology industry

# data[].attributes.body
Subtopic 1

# data[].attributes.body
From Exotic to Invisible: Asian American Womens' Experiences of Discrimination

We see more and more Asian hate around the world nowadays. What started us off was when the pandemic hit and our world was shutting down, many people started to blame Asian people for starting it. Which we know that race has nothing to do with the pandemic. The results showed that stereotypes of Asian American women are alive and well in the current social context of America. These stereotypes contribute to experiences of marginalization, invisibility, and oppression that these participants have faced in the past and continue to face today.

These results support other research findings that Asian American women face both subtle and blatant discrimination in their personal relationships and their professional lives, from bosses, professors, colleagues, subordinates, partners, family, and friends.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
What image first comes to mind when you think about Asian American women? You may imagine a woman who is docile and subservient; one who is sensual or erotic ("The Geisha"); the manipulative and untrustworthy "Dragon Lady"; or the hardworking, conscientious worker bee.

Largely, Asian American women are thought of as faceless, quiet and invisible, or as sexual objects. In addition to the myth of the "Model Minority" and the "Forever Foreigner," these depictions and others have persisted in the media and popular culture.

What are the current experiences of discrimination in terms of racism and sexism for Asian American women?

Shruti Mukkamala and Karen Suyemoto set out to answer this question in a research study recently published in Asian American Journal of Psychology.

The study sought to provide evidence that, contrary to popular belief, Asian American women face discrimination in their lives, both professionally and personally. The researchers hope that their work might lead to a better understanding of the effects of discrimination on the lives of Asian American women in the U.S.

The research included both online open-ended surveys as well as in person group interviews with adult women who self-identified as Asian American. Participants were asked about their experiences with discrimination.

Out of the 107 participants in the study, only four said they had never experienced discrimination. The researchers identified 15 types of discrimination, 6 of which were specific to how race and gender interact in discrimination toward Asian American women in particular.

A brief explanation of these six themes provides a glimpse into the participants' experiences:

Exotic - Experiences related to being exoticized and objectified. These are historically related to the stereotypes of Asian women as exotic "Geisha girls" who possess a special sexuality.

Not a leader - Experiences where participants are seen as incapable of being or becoming leaders. Related to the stereotype of the busy "worker bee" who can work as part of a team, but is incapable of leading due to stereotypes of Asian women as quiet and lacking leadership qualities. This experience is also shared with women of other racial groups who are often not considered leaders.

Submissive - Experiences where participants are considered submissive/passive/quiet, expected to be agreeable, not speak up or stand up for themselves. Related to stereotypes of Asian women as deferential and controllable.

Cute and small - Expectations put on the participants about how they should or should not look.

Invisible - Experiences related to participants feeling like they or their group was ignored in some way, or lacked voice, agency or power.

Service worker - Assumptions that the participant works at a low-level gendered job, such as being a maid or working in a nail salon, which are stereotypically associated with Asian American women.

Other types of discrimination included

being considered a spokesperson for all Asians

being mistakenly identified as someone from another Asian ethnicity

thought to be foreign or international

being considered smart and naturally successful

stereotyping as bad drivers

other people's negativity about cultural beliefs and practices

These particular experiences are not gender-specific and are experienced by Asian Americans in general.

The results showed that stereotypes of Asian American women are alive and well in the current social context of America. These stereotypes contribute to experiences of marginalization, invisibility, and oppression that these participants have faced in the past and continue to face today.

These results support other research findings that Asian American women face both subtle and blatant discrimination in their personal relationships and their professional lives, from bosses, professors, colleagues, subordinates, partners, family, and friends.

The authors hope that those who interact with Asian American women become more aware of ways in which they may be contributing to discriminating against this group and creating professional and personal barriers. They hope to make these often invisible experiences visible, so that we may empower Asian American women and prevent discrimination against this group.

Citation

Mukkamala, S., & Suyemoto, K. L. (2018). Racialized sexism/sexualized racism: A multimethod study of intersectional experiences of discrimination for Asian American women. Asian American Journal of Psychology, 9(1), 32-46. http://dx.doi.org/10.1037/aap0000104
Return to APA Journals Article Spotlight homepage
Note: This article is in the Social Psychology & Social Processes topic area. View more articles in the Social Psychology & Social Processes topic area.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Asian American Womens' Experiences of Discrimination - Spotlight | APA

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
What image first comes to mind when you think about Asian American women? You may imagine a woman who is docile and subservient; one who is sensual or erotic ("The Geisha"); the manipulative and untrustworthy "Dragon Lady"; or the hardworking, conscientious worker bee.