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Amber Jae Slooten-digital fashion designer

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Amber Jae Slooten-digital fashion designer

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Interest in virtual fashion has exploded during the coronavirus pandemic as people explore ways of dressing their online avatars, according to digital fashion designer Amber Jae Slooten.

"We got huge interest," said Slooten, co-founder of The Fabricant, a virtual fashion house based in Amsterdam. "I've never dressed so many people in my life".

Slooten said that digital fashion allowed people to act out their fantasies online.

"How do we want to represent ourselves within the virtual space?" she asked. "If we can be anything, will we still want to be ourselves?"

The rising interest in virtual outfits echoes the growing popularity of images depicting fantasy landscapes that "offer a chance to wonder and escape", according to visualisation artists.

"Given the global situation, the desire for escapism is at an all-time high," interior designer and creative director Charlotte Taylor told Dezeen earlier this summer.

Slooten spoke to Dezeen during a live panel discussion held as part of London Craft Week. The discussion, called Textile Intelligence, featured Slooten alongside Seetal Solanki, founding director of London studio Ma-tt-er, plus multimedia artist Lauren Godfrey and textile artist Celia Pym.

The Fabricant, which Slooten describes as "the world's first digital fashion house," designs garments that only exist digitally.

Created painstakingly with 3D modelling software, the bespoke items are designed to drape and move as if they were real. Customers' avatars can "wear" the items on social media platforms, gaming environments and virtual worlds.

Ying Gao's "chameleon-like" autonomous dresses react to their surroundings

"We create clothes that only exist in a digital space and never exist in the physical world," Slooten explained, adding that virtual fashion allows consumers to avoid the waste and pollution associated with traditional fashion.

"We try to create a new fashion narrative for the 21st century because we really believe that we need to look at ourselves in the mirror and see if our vanity really needs to harm the planet in this way."

Previously, The Fabricant's garments were made to order. But in April, the studio launched the beta version of a new platform called Leela, which allows people to download a range of ready-to-wear items for their online personas.

"There were about 10,000 people that actually use the app to wear these clothes, which to us was completely crazy," said Slooten. "People were able to create their own avatars and wear our clothes for the first time."

Virtual fashion comes naturally to the younger generation, Slooten said, since they are comfortable with the idea of having parallel real-world and online identities.

"I'm a millennial," she said. "I grew up with digital and physical at the same time. But the generation below us doesn't even see the difference any more between physical and real."

People adopt different personalities for different digital platforms, each requiring different dress codes, Slooten said.

"Your digital identities are actually looking different everywhere," said Slooten. "For instance, your Instagram profile might be very different from your LinkedIn profile."

The Fabricant was launched in 2018 by Kerry Murphy and Slooten, who studied at Amsterdam Fashion Institute and became the first-ever fashion student to graduate with an entirely digital collection.

"I'm educated as a traditional fashion designer," she said. "I learned everything at my school; how to sew how to make patterns. [But] I got really sick of all the material that I was using. The physicality of things is something that I never really enjoyed."

Wearers can update political messages on Carlings' augmented-reality T-shirt

"The physicality made me sick, because of all the materials that we were wasting," she explained. "I felt like a huge responsibility for the future of the industry, which I which is why I started questioning physicality altogether."

"And then after I graduated, there were absolutely no jobs in that subject," Slooten added. "And it made me realise that I needed to create it."

The Fabricant's first virtual collection was launched with a digital show with virtual scenery and models, pioneering a format that has now been adopted by many brands due to restrictions imposed by the pandemic.

"We didn't have to ship any collection, we didn't have to hire any photographers, we didn't need any models," Slooten said. "We didn't even need to fly to the desert to photograph it".

Last year, the Fabricant made history when a virtual dress was auctioned for the first time, selling for $9,500.

"The new owner wore it on her Facebook and on her Instagram," said Slooten.

In future, Slooten believes that real-world fashion will become increasingly technological and sustainable, featuring smart materials that act as a second skin and are able to monitor the body.

"I feel like the future lies in materials that are smart and that are able to grow with us or even grow on us," Slooten explained, adding that the physical world will allow people to exhibit "a more sober expression of who we are".

Parallel to this, virtual fashion will offer people ways of being more expressive.

"And then within the digital world, we can go completely crazy. We can wear a dress made of water or have lights everywhere and change your textile according to your mood."

Eventually, technology could make the digital and the physical worlds indistinguishable, Slooten believes, with garments offering haptic feedback so that virtual reality becomes similar to the real world.

"And this opens up even a more philosophical question," Slooten adds. "Is it even a reality? Because if the virtual world feels like, looks like, and behaves like reality, how do we know it's virtual?"

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Virtual fashion will allow people to "go completely crazy"

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Interest in virtual fashion has exploded during the coronavirus pandemic as people explore ways of dressing their avatars for online environments, according to digital fashion designer Amber Jae Slooten.

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Ten years ago, there was an episode of Black Mirror titled "Fifteen Million Merits", where huddled masses furiously laboured in order to dress not themselves, but their idealised digital doppelgängers, in little hats. It seemed far-fetched, but was already fact. Metaverses - 3D virtual spaces - had already begun to emerge in chatrooms and computer games such as The Sims and World of Warcraft, populated by avatars. And they all had to wear something.

It's a strange notion: clothes that don't exist, for people who aren't real. But fashions that exist purely digitally have been around for a while, albeit restricted to online platforms such as IMVU and Second Life. The latter, founded in 2003, is a world rather than a game, with no set objectives, a virtual space for socialising, and shopping.

Second Life's economy is based on user-generated content. Residents create items such as hairstyles, toenails and skin tones, which are sold for Linden dollars - the platform's in-world currency - and can be "cashed out" to US dollars. During 2020, $73m was paid out to users.

Clothing across these metaverses generally looks similar. Pieces reference real-life high fashion, sometimes blatantly ripping it off, with the kind of varying success and audacity you see in most counterfeit markets. A user of The Sims recreated the newspaper-print Christian Dior dress famously worn by Sarah Jessica Parker on Sex and the City in 2000. In Second Life, there are also precise digital recreations of Bottega Veneta's Arco bag, Balenciaga's arch-bottomed Hourglass and Prada bucket hats dotted with Triangle emblems.

The next step is official brand endorsement - labels creating digital content, and charging for the privilege of wearing an imaginary logo. The Nintendo game Animal Crossing: New Horizons captured the fashion imagination last summer. Maison Margiela 6, Valentino and Marc Jacobs contributed looks for the game's approximately 30m players to download and dress up their characters, a community of anthropomorphic animals.

Where next for digital fashion? The answer could, perhaps, lie with DressX, a two-year-old start-up that offers "digital-only collection" - meaning non-existent clothes, realised by both traditional and 3D designers and available to add to photographs of real-life people. The resulting images can then be uploaded to social media. According to founders Daria Shapovalova and Natalia Modenova, it is "a substitute for buying physical clothes solely for content creation." Their backgrounds are in fashion - they headed Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Kyiv, Ukraine - but their base in California and a fascination with augmented reality and digital spheres lead to the concept for DressX. The idea is also tied to current concerns around fast fashion, and the industry's cycle of consumption and waste - a 2015 study by the charity Barnardos indicated that garments are worn on average seven times before disposal, contributing to an estimated 92m tonnes of annual textile waste globally.

A 'digital cotton' sweat on DressX costs $25

Other companies have explored this space: The Fabricant created digital clothing for avatars, collaborating with the likes of Adidas and Tommy Hilfiger; Scandinavian fast fashion label Carlings devised digital clothes to be uploaded to "dress" people in photographic images. But the interface of DressX is slicker, simpler.

The designers at DressX aren't (yet) that famous - there's no Dior, no Chanel. The most familiar name is probably Gary James McQueen, the nephew of Lee Alexander McQueen, who was responsible for some of the late designer's textiles, and whose clothes are similarly theatrical, tinged with historical references to Victoriana and Tudor. The other well known names are those of artists - images by Van Gogh, Cézanne and Monet applied to sweatshirts. A Monet "digital cotton" sweatshirt is $25 while a non-existent Gary McQueen gold dress will cost you $350 to digitally apply to a photograph.

Yet investors seem to have faith that people will pay. In July, DressX raised $2m in a seed round, and launched an app earlier this summer, aiming to further simplify the process of users buying an image of a dress rather than the dress itself. A revolutionary, resource-saving utopian alternative to consumption, or the ultimate cynical reflection of an image-obsessed dystopia? Only the future will tell.

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Ten years ago, there was an episode of Black Mirror titled "Fifteen Million Merits", where huddled masses furiously laboured in order to dress not themselves, but their idealised digital doppelgängers, in little hats. It seemed far-fetched, but was already fact.

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The latest in fashion is not made with threads and textiles, but with pixels and programs.

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The latest in fashion is not made with threads and textiles, but with pixels and programs.

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People Are Buying Digital Clothes Because That's a Thing Now

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They're like skins in games, except for real people.

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Global Talents Digital is the world's first international hybrid fashion project that brings together designers and technology.

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Global Talents Digital is the world's first international hybrid fashion project that brings together designers and technology.

The third Global Talents Digital issue is dedicated to sustainability (sustainable development). Designers of virtual and real clothing, footwear and accessories are welcome to join as long as they support at least one of the trends - upcycling, recycling, ethical fashion, slow fashion, and zero waste. Global Talents Digital will take place phygitally. Entries are accepted till October 1, 2021.

The previous instance of Global Talents Digital took place in September and got 7+ million views. 103 participants from 34 countries and lands took effort to explore the issue of sustainability. Designer collections, works of artists and virtual models in collaboration with nonprofits and technology startups were watched from 1,519 cities throughout the world. The project was streamed at websites of 100 global mass media as well as in the social networks.

Artists, NPOs, startups, bloggers and virtual models can submit their entries for Global Talents Digital by email: info@russianfashioncouncil.ru.

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Global Talents Digital produced by Russian Fashion Council

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Global Talents Digital is the world's first international hybrid fashion project that brings together designers and technology. The third Global Talents Digital issue is dedicated to sustainability (sustainable development). Designers of virtual and real clothing, footwear and accessories are welcome to join as long as they support at least one of the trends - upcycling, recycling, ethical fashion, slow fashion, and zero waste.

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Big ideas 2023 fashion.

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Garrett Leight Releases Mood-Altering Sunglasses

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Garrett Leight Releases Mood-Altering Sunglasses

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The Boost sunglasses from Garrett Leight can improve your performance
Garrett Leight

With the sunlight hours growing shorter and shorter and the pandemic on the upswing, everyone could use a little boost. Garrett Leight is debuting a limited-edition collection of sunglasses with mood-altering lenses from Zeiss, which manufactures some of the best lenses on the market. The tortoise-colored Naples frames feature three lens colors with different effects: Boost, Relax, and Focus. If you need a pick me up, the red Boost lenses can improve performance, and increase emotional response and excitement. For times when you need to concentrate, the yellow Focus lenses can strengthen your attention and improve your response time. And if you need to wind down, the green Relax lenses can reduce stress and relax your mind and body. We speak to Garrett Leight, founder and CEO, about the new collaboration.
Is this limited-edition collection related to the Covid-19 pandemic or was it in the works before?
Zeiss showed us this new lens collection before the pandemic and I always knew that I wanted to incorporate it within the brand somehow. So it was in the works before the pandemic but in a bit of a different context.
Why is this release important now?
This year has been a lot to take in, and I believe it's had a pretty significant effect on everyone's bandwidth. I'd say most people would agree that 2020 probably changed the path you thought you were on this year, and for a lot of us, it created challenges - both physical and emotional. I think that trying to prioritize self-care and emotional wellness in whatever capacity we are each capable of is important right now and these mood-enhancing lenses feel like a way to offer that within the scope of what we do.

The yellow lenses in the Focus sunglasses can increase speed of reading
Garrett Leight

What was the inspiration behind the release?
Part of what I love about eyewear is the emotional side that goes along with selecting and wearing a frame. It's unique to any other accessory that you can buy in the sense that it's worn on your face - so it can be quite character building and can change both the way you are perceived and how you perceive yourself. In a way, these lenses almost felt like an extension of that innate enhancing quality that I strive to provide all of our customers when they are choosing a style. I want it to help change their life for the better.

The green lenses from the Relax lenses can help you wind down at the end of the day
Garrett Leight

Do you have a favorite lens?
I'm lucky enough to have had the opportunity to try each of them, and I encourage you to do so at our stores as well. I know for me, focusing was a challenge before all this, but even more so now, so I'd have to say that is my favorite. I've also been enjoying Relax, which I'll slip on at the end of my day right before I shut down. I used to have a tequila to wind down and now I change my glasses. My liver will probably thank me for it.
This interview has been edited for clarity.

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Garrett Leight Releases Mood-Altering Sunglasses

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With the sunlight hours growing shorter and shorter and the pandemic on the upswing, everyone could use a little boost. Garrett Leight is debuting a limited-edition collection of sunglasses with mood-altering lenses from Zeiss, which manufactures some of the best lenses on the market.

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Behind the colors in GLCO's Naples Mood Capsule

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Behind the colors in GLCO's Naples Mood Capsule

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Filters may alter the digital realms we look at but eyewear-maker Garrett Leight and his team at GLCO thought working with German lens manufacturer ZEISS could result in a product that changes the way we see our real surroundings. Dubbed the Naples Mood Capsule, these non-prescription yellow-, green- and red-hued lenses (dressed in tortoise acetate) aim to improve focus and productivity, assist with creativity and reduce head stress and eye strain.

"This year has taken so much out of all of us and I think the drastic shifts have a pretty significant effect on our bandwidth. No matter who, where, or what you are, 2020 probably changed the path you thought you were on, and for a lot of us, it created challenges-both physical and emotional," Leight says of the collection's inception. "I know for me, focusing was a challenge before all this, but even more so now. So if adding these lenses in my rotation can help me get there, I'm super-down with that."

Each color in the ZEISS BioChrom collection was crafted using analysis and evidence gathered from studies from two institutions: Eberhard Karls University and the Research Center for Neuromarketing and Consumer Behavior at IULM University. There (before the pandemic), participants underwent "neuroanalysis, such as electroencephalography to measure the cognitive activation" and tasks that toyed with "skin conductance response, heart rate variability, pupillometry to measure the emotional and physiological activation," Zemia Garrett at ZEISS explains.

"The impact of colors on one's body and mind has been studied for a long time and under different angles: spiritual, scientific, cultural, even religious," she continues. ZEISS debuted the results of their research in 2019, but the development process began years prior. "We initially started to build our hypothesis by analyzing the decades of scientific publications about the physiological and cognitive impact of color. We then identified some effects that colors could generate. Then we created very specific wavelengths for the tints and 'translated it' for lens materials. The very specific tints that were created were tested in labs to validate and substantiate their biological efficiency."

With yellow, wearers might notice an uptick in productivity and increased reading speed. When wearing red, they may feel less prone to shyness and more easily excited. With green, creativity could come more easily and head stress and eye strain might slowly fade.

"In a way, these lenses almost felt like an extension of that innate enhancing quality that I strive to provide all of our customers when they are choosing a style. I want it to help change their life for the better," Leight says.

Looking through our yellow pair offers a somewhat dampened perception of reality. The glare of the sun appears powered down and bright LEDs are toned yellow. That being said, and despite being satisfied thus far, we're yet to see how prolonged wear impacts our wellbeing. ZEISS' research determined that "a majority of the population will feel the benefits as listed," Garrett adds. "However, color perception is very subjective and can vary according to one's culture, beliefs or personal taste. Therefore biological responses will range, and BioChrom lens usage should always be subjected to a single person's feeling toward a color."
Images courtesy of Garrett Leight / GLCO

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Behind the Colors in GLCO's Naples Mood Capsule

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Filters may alter the digital realms we look at but eyewear-maker Garrett Leight and his team at GLCO thought working with German lens manufacturer ZEISS could result in a product that changes the way we see our real surroundings.

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Fashinza's Blog | Clothing Manufacturer | Supplier | Ethical & Sustainable Apparel's

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What is Virtual Fashion: Definition, Examples, And Virtual Fashion Events

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Everything to know about virtual fashion, how it works, some examples of virtual fashion brands, and where to catch upcoming virtual fashion events.

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Would you spend real money on virtual fashion?

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Would you spend real money on virtual fashion?

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But even before the pandemic, we saw hints of how fashion could exist purely on the internet.

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It takes a lot to interrupt a mindless Instagram scroll, but a photo of [stylist] Nicola Formichetti stopped me in my tracks. His candy-wrapper ensemble looked like a wearable Jeff Koons sculpture. Something about the impossibly shiny sheen made me think: Is that real? No, it turned out it wasn't. It was an outfit from Tribute, a company based in Zagreb, Croatia, that makes "contactless cyber fashion."

In some ways, this kind of fashion is a continuation of a trend we've seen accelerated during COVID-19. Most fashion brands have paused real-life catwalk presentations and instead used short films or virtual showroom visits to get their seasonal vision across. But even before the pandemic, we saw hints of how fashion could exist purely on the internet. Digital fashion influencers like @lilmiquela, for instance, have rocked the latest runway looks from an entirely different dimension. E-commerce websites are also making it easier than ever for shoppers to purchase items without ever having to see or touch it in-person, too. You can even window shop on Zoom now. All of this is possible because social media has primed us for dressing for a digital audience rather than a physical one.

So it's no surprise that some brands are continuing to blur the line between reality and fantasy, taking us into fashion's uncanny valley. Tribute makes digital clothing that it places on people who spend up to $699 on a top that only exists online. The inspiration for the brand was the Sims, Grand Theft Auto, and other video games. "You have these characters and clothing shops where you can dress them up. That was always the most exciting part of the game for me," says Gala Marija Vrbanic, the founder and creative director of Tribute. She launched Tribute with Filip Vajda, who is the head of digital fashion. Prior to starting it, the duo worked on a traditional clothing brand, but always had their sights set on a digital brand. A shared love of sustainable design led them to take the concept to the extreme with Tribute, which claims to be zero-waste because the clothes are made from pixels rather than textiles. By creating clothes that are online-only, the duo see a creative opportunity to have people wear things that could never exist on planet earth. In other words, perfect Instagram bait. "We add new things that are impossible in the real world, like new materials-things that just couldn't function in the real word due to the laws of physics," says Vrbanic.

To start their line, Vrbanic and Vajda digitized patterns that they had already created for real-life clothes, using a 3D software that brands that make physical clothes also use. Once the garments are complete, they then use another software to paste the outfit onto a customer's image that they submit. They blend the garment onto the photo seamlessly, and add shadowing and other lifelike elements. The whole process takes three to five hours, but Vrbanic sees the technology developing so, "people could have this type of clothing instantly."

Currently, the brand has a collection of 12 otherworldly garments available on its website, and they take custom orders. Though it's not real stock, Tribute only produces a certain amount of virtual styles, and once they're gone, they're gone. On the website, it lists how many pieces the brand will create. One hundred people can buy a black, shiny coat with green trim for $29, while only three can purchase a top that resembles green lace and black latex for $699.

Tribute's Instagram page sometimes makes it tricky to determine what is real and what is digital. But its gravity-defying aesthetic makes it easier to discern. The clothes aren't necessarily supposed to look real, but they can certainly make you do a double-take and question it. So naturally, I wanted to see if my friends would be able to tell if I was wearing digital clothes, without being primed for the possibility. I surrendered a photo of myself to Vrbanic and Vajda, and they quickly sent me back a new-and-improved version of myself wearing cyborg clothes. Suddenly, I was wearing a Matrix-style trench coat with silver and green pants that made me look like a superhero. It was me, but better and more alien-like. I immediately sent my new digital outfit to all of my unsuspecting friends, to get their first impressions without any context or clues given.

Not all of my friends were fooled (three immediately asked if the 'fit was fake) but all of my friends were fascinated. My friend Christina said, "The pants look painted-on, but I had to zoom in on first look." She also said it reminded her of Cher's closet in Clueless. Another friend compared it to Monster energy drinks, and another said it gave her Hugh Hefner vibes.

Having tried Tribute's cyber garments myself now, I now see the appeal of it. I am often guilty of scrutinizing my outfit in photos, and if the fit is only slightly off, I will delete said photo. Looking at myself in these flawless virtual pieces, however, the end result had the desired effect that fashion should have: It made me feel good. Like me, but amplified. The only thing that would make the experience even better is if I could actually walk down in the street in these masterfully slouchy pants. But I can't, because that's not the point.

Other virtual brands like this seem to be gaining traction. The Scandinavian brand Carlings operates on the same concept, and its team of 3D designers have been crafting digital streetwear since 2018. The Fabricant recently launched a film campaign that showcases an entire digital denim line too. "We truly believe this is something that is going to shape the future of fashion, and it's something that is totally zero-waste," says Vrbanic. With waste being an ongoing issue in the fashion industry, the duo thinks their digital approach will catch on. It may seem excessive to spend $29 on an outfit that doesn't exist in the physical world, but the brand's founders see it as less wasteful than creating a new physical garment from the world's limited resources. "If you recycle many plastic bottles or produce many organic cotton, it's still going to be a problem-even a greater one, because when you produce organic cotton, there's a lot of more water used," says Vrbanic. "In this case, there are no external resources used. In a couple of years, everything is going to be digital."

But Tribute likely isn't for everybody. It's for people who really love the look of clothes, and flexing it on Instagram. Will those with simple, everyday style-say, jeans and a tee-really purchase Tribute's bold creations? Probably not, but personally, I see Tribute as special-occasion-wear-when you've exhausted your wardrobe and need something fun and outrageous to wear for a photo. I didn't expect to be so taken by my avatar, but I am, and can confirm that spending $29 to be living for your look is well worth it. And if you've grown accustomed to seeing your online persona as an extension of yourself, the fact that these clothes are computer generated doesn't matter. The result is the same.

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Would You Spend Real Money on Virtual Clothes?

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It takes a lot to interrupt a mindless Instagram scroll, but a photo of [stylist] Nicola Formichetti stopped me in my tracks. His candy-wrapper ensemble looked like a wearable Jeff Koons sculpture. Something about the impossibly shiny sheen made me think: Is that real? No, it turned out it wasn't.

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Like in every new big change in fashion, some players are pioneers in the development of the future of the industry. Check out our list of 6 groundbreaking brands in virtual fashion and digital clothing.

A brand new sector of digital-only clothing is rising in the fashion industry. Virtual fashion, in contrast to physical fashion, is designed and marketed for avatars and virtual platforms. Brands are entering the digital world with virtual samples or entire collections, and some brands are completely digital.

The Fabricant
The Dutch digital design house, The Fabricant's founder Kerry Murphy originally came from working with visual effects in the film industry but wanted to pursue that same path in fashion. The all-virtual clothing brand was founded in 2018 but it really took off in 2019 when they sold their Iridescent Digi-couture Dress for $9,500. The Fabricant has collaborated with some of fashion's most well-known names like Tommy Hilfiger and Soorty.

The brand is dropping pieces that are free for users to download and use, they've also launched the virtual platform Leela where anyone can play around with digital dresses.

- Digitalization is a critical move to ensure industry resilience, The designers in an interview with Mission.

Carling
In 2018 the Norwegian brand Carling launched their all-digital clothing collection called Neo-EX, a collaboration between Carling and the digital influencer Perl. The collection contained 19 pieces in bright colour and clear inspiration from the digital world in prints and graphics. Everything sold out quickly and the pieces were a hit on social media. All revenue from the collection was donated to WaterAid to create awareness of the huge amount of water that's used in the production of physical clothing.

Tribute Brand
This all-digital fashion brand is based in Croatia and founded by Gala Marija Vrbanic and Filip Vajda. The brand exclusively creates virtual items and the designers have taken inspiration from video games when creating the pieces. The two designers had a mutual passion for sustainable design and together they founded Tribute. Since everything is virtually made there are no wasted materials. And that's not the only upside to digital clothing, sizes always fit as well. Tribute brand only sells a limited amount of their pieces so once they are sold out they won't come back.

Hanifa
Hanifa is a Congolese fashion label founded by Anifa Mvuemba. The brand is most known for its Pink Label Collection which showed 3D models of the clothes floating down the runway. Dresses were perfectly draped and shown over a black background and everything was digitally created. Even though the collection was not strictly virtual, the all virtual runway brought a lot of attention to the concept of digital clothing.

Dress-X
Dress-X is not itself a virtual clothing brand, but it plays a big part in digital fashion. They're an international digital fashion brand retailer that carries fashion collections from the most well-known virtual brands and 3D designers. Dress-X helps customers who purchase virtual clothing to use them since a lot of people who buy these items have limited tools and knowledge of the digital world. The retailer carries a range of brands and soon they will be launching their app to make shopping even more convenient.

H&M
H&M recently announced that Internet entrepreneur and Game of Thrones child star Maisie Williams will become their global sustainability ambassador. Willams is going to co-operate with the fashion giant to try and highlight and encourage recycling, reusing and remaking in fashion. In conjunction with this announcement, H&M and Williams have teamed up with Animal Crossing, Nintendo's simulation game, and created the Looop island in the game. "H&M Looop island" will appear on the game and players will be able to recycle their game outfits and receive new ones in return. A version of Williams and Pascal Brun, global sustainability manager at H&M will appear in the game.

H&M also created a Maisie Avatar as a part of their newfound partnership, customers can follow "avatarmaisie" who will appear on multiple VR events throughout the year.

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6 brands that are leading the way for virtual fashion

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Like in every new big change in fashion, some players are pioneers in the development of the future of the industry. Check out our list of 6 groundbreaking brands in virtual fashion and digital clothing. A brand new sector of digital-only clothing is rising in the fashion industry.

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The only upside is that some affordable pieces can be “worn” once, or posted on Instagram, for a fraction of the price.

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In 2008, I purchased my first digital outfit. I gave little thought to the significance of my decision. It was just one aspect of Maplestory, the free online role-playing game my friends and I were obsessed with. The game's objective was to embark on a heroic adventure, and our virtual avatars had to be properly equipped for the journey. That meant swords, shields, capes, and all sorts of fantastical attire.

The most eye-catching virtual clothes and accessories cost actual cash, not in-game money, which I would buy with allowance money from my parents. The individual items were available for purchase in the "cash shop," and cost from $1 to $10. They didn't help defend against enemies or bestow extra power; they existed to serve a solely aesthetic purpose by covering up unwieldy battle regalia.

The clothes were also programmed to expire after 90 days. In hindsight, their semi-permanent nature was a prelude to the ephemeral fashion environment I would grow up in. But all that mattered then was that, for about three months, my pixelated self hunted monsters in virtual cat ears, pink sunglasses, and a flouncy black dress. It was a form of virtual dress-up that was playful and liberating. I had the autonomy to dress however I desired within the confines of this virtual world.

Digital fashion, as of late, is often discussed in tandem with the metaverse, a sci-fi concept turned omnipresent buzzword that has been touted as the future of the internet. In Mark Zuckerberg's metaverse, for example, we will all have little stand-ins for ourselves, loitering around the digital landscape. These virtual avatars will work at virtual jobs, attend to virtual social obligations, and wear virtual clothes. How this Ready Player One-like world will come together is still extremely unclear.

To this end, Silicon Valley has been trying to convince Americans to think seriously about - and put real money toward - things that seem more or less fake. Compared to something as speculative as non-fungible tokens, digital fashion seems relatively easy to understand. Most people can grasp, for instance, designing an avatar for a video game, like The Sims. Your virtual self needs to get dressed; nudity is not programmatically allowed.

Digital fashion, however, is not limited to clothing for avatars. It's a growing fashion subculture that includes the digital design and modeling of real-world clothing, the uploading of designs for real and digital clothing onto the blockchain (so these files can be sold as NFTs), and even digital clothes rendered onto real people.

There's a belief that digital fashion could one day eclipse people's needs for real, tangible clothes. Outfit repetition will become an outdated concern, the thinking goes, since digital-only clothes exist solely for sartorial performance and self-expression, beyond the constraints of physical reality. (Metaverse garments can be fantastically impractical: Think flaming capes, billowing glass-blown dresses, and cloud-like outerwear.)

This perspective, however, seems primarily held by individuals and startups that stand to make lots of money from digital fashion's rising profile. Fashion has always been in the business of selling fantasies. Is this particular one, though, just another distraction from the wider fashion industry's very real problems? Proponents of digital fashion claim that it has the potential to be profitable, practical, creatively rich, and sustainable. Much of that remains up for debate. We are, after all, still confined to our flesh-suits.

Digital fashion is all style and, quite literally, no substance

Daniella Loftus, founder of the digital fashion blog This Outfit Does Not Exist, categorizes digital fashion on a spectrum with varying physical and digital properties. Per Loftus's definition, "any worn article created in the digital realm" can fall under this label. That includes purely physical pieces designed with software or digital collectibles with physical counterparts; virtual clothes that are "worn," or edited, on images and videos of real humans; and fully digital garments sported by avatars, powered by video game developers (Activision Blizzard, Epic Games, Sony) or social networks (Snap, Meta).

"My prediction is that retailers are going to start investing in better software and technology," Loftus said. "The first step will be 'phygital.'" Phygital, a jargony portmanteau of physical and digital, is used to describe real-world experiences with digital components, from fashion shows to retail shopping.

It's no coincidence that fashion has initially staked its virtual turf through video games, a form of entertainment that, according to the New Yorker's Anna Wiener, "train[s] players to be eager, expectant, and constant consumers." Massively multiplayer online games like Fortnite and Roblox are one lucrative avenue to reach millions of young, international consumers. The $40 billion market for in-game items is tantalizingly profitable, and producing digital goods requires relatively low production and labor costs. Prior to the pandemic, Louis Vuitton released a League of Legends capsule collection with character skins (outfits worn by playable characters), and Moschino launched a collection inspired by The Sims that could be purchased and worn in the game.

Mainstream interest in NFTs has only expedited this interest in gaming and virtual worlds. More brands are seeking out collaborations with esports teams, game developers, and gaming consoles, or launching exclusive collections and pieces in certain games. It's an interesting turn of events for an industry worried about revenue loss from declining pandemic sales. Here is an opportunity for well-funded brands - many with the financial means to weather Covid-19 uncertainty while smaller stores shuttered - to bring in sales and customers without any physical products at all.

Luxury fashion has boasted of a distinctively creative digital approach. An up-and-coming generation of designers and artistic directors have liberally experimented with emerging technologies in recent years, in ways imaginative and practical, but also occasionally questionable. Recall Balmain's "virtual army" of supermodels, consisting entirely of three digital, multiracial women, built on a shockingly narrow standard of beauty. Or Calvin Klein's poor attempt at mimicking queer allyship by having Bella Hadid, a real heterosexual woman, kiss Lil Miquela, a virtual influencer who is presumably bisexual for marketing purposes, while #InTheirCalvins.

Once fashion's regular shows were paused by the pandemic, digital experimentation became more practical, although no less visually eccentric. Hanifa designer Anifa Mvuemba drew press attention in May 2020 for simulating her spring runway show with 3D modeling technology, which was broadcast on Instagram Live. Last June, Balenciaga's Demna Gvasalia also hosted a "deep fake of a fashion show," and cast a CGI version of the painter Eliza Douglas for the virtual catwalk.

Virtual fashion proponents emphasize that there is more to the technology than flashy marketing ploys. The 3D design software used by brands like Burberry, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger, they claim, can optimize the production of physical garments by reducing excess waste during the design and fitting processes. Digital prototypes can minimize the number of samples produced for merchandisers and promotional use. New styles can be digitally reproduced, or "tailored," onto the bodies of models (virtual and physical), celebrities, and influencers. On the customer end, improvements in augmented reality also can help buyers visualize and virtually "try on" products before they're even manufactured.

Since NFTs have gone mainstream, more retailers are partnering with - or in the case of Nike, acquiring - startups that specialize in designing virtual fashion and digital collectibles. Adidas, as part of its "Into the Metaverse" project, is collaborating with various NFT collectors and artists, including Bored Ape Yacht Club, to offer "community members" (read: NFT owners) exclusive merchandise and access to "virtual land experiences." These projects are usually marketed to a growing (albeit niche) base of upwardly mobile cryptocurrency enthusiasts. Yet, they are often lauded by the fashion press and venture capitalists as innovative endeavors - for establishing new notions of "community" between a brand and its buyers, or as the crypto cognoscenti likes to claim, for democratizing traditionally gate-kept spaces like art and fashion.

These corporate-backed projects have largely overshadowed the independent digital fashion scene, which, to its credit, has a comparatively low barrier to entry. Any artist can produce a virtual fashion collection with minimal financial resources. The space, in contrast to the fashion world's historic exclusivity, has attracted independent graphic designers without a formal background in clothing design. These creators treat their virtual-only "clothes" as art-like commodities, but unlike traditional fashion designers, are not restricted to the contours of physical reality. Their genderless, sizeless works can forsake human anatomy altogether. Take, for example, the glistening, sea urchin-like coat designed by Toni Maticevski and digital fashion startup The Fabricant, which Australian Fashion Week attendees could virtually try on.

A brief scroll through DressX, a marketplace for digital-only fashion goods, offers another glimpse of the avant-garde experimentation at hand. These conceptual, physics-defying looks, while striking, aren't able to be "worn" in a traditional sense. After a customer purchases a garment - which can cost as little as $30 and as much as $9,500 - they send in an image or a video of themselves for the outfit to be rendered on. The end result can vary depending on the level of digital craftsmanship involved (which often correlates with the price). Realism is not the point, according to its proponents. What matters is the emotion that these clothes evoke. "Fashion is an emotional experience," The Fabricant's Michaela Larosse told Vogue. "And you don't need physicality for that."

What puzzled me about Larosse's statement, at least with this current iteration of digital fashion, is how the wearer would consistently have these feelings. Emotions are instinctive. They could be genuinely reciprocated through an avatar for the brief time that I am plugged into a video game or a digital world. But the spontaneous, corporeal joy I derive from draping myself in soft silk is unlikely to be replicated with a digital stand-in, especially not through an edited photo.

To quote Ye, there is something magical and strangely addictive "about the way clothes fit and feel and the emotion that they give you." With digital clothes and collectibles, there is no real-time rush of confidence, no twirl of exhilaration. These designs, after all, are digital files for public consumption without any material indulgence. The wearer has to pose for a photo or video without a clear idea of how the garment will flow. "You kind of have to guess how the outfit is going to look on you later," according to one photographer. "It isn't particularly easy to take a photo without the outfit you're going to be wearing in it."

These conceptual, physics-defying looks, while striking, aren't able to be "worn" in a traditional sense

Most virtual outfits on marketplace sites like DressX and Replicant are no more distinctive than existing couture from innovative fashion designers like Thierry Mugler, Iris van Herpen, or Issey Miyake. The only upside is that some affordable pieces can be "worn" once, or posted on Instagram, for a fraction of the price. These digital outfits might appeal to fashion content creators, who serve as virtual mannequins for sponsors. But if the motive is to flex a cool 'fit or to feel good in sustainable clothes, why not rent physical luxury items from services like Rent the Runway for about the same cost? Even to regular audiences, it's quite clear that these digital outfits are Photoshopped, sometimes poorly. And is wearing them simply a fashion statement, or is it also a tacit endorsement of a clothesless future?

Digital fashion is "sustainable," but virtual clothes aren't functional substitutes

Digital fashion's fanciful impracticality has not prevented fashion magazines and news outlets from uncritically parroting its most fallacious claim: It can be a sustainable alternative - even a solution - to fast fashion. If more brands released digital collections, for example, shoppers might devote more of their budget to virtual clothes rather than physical ones. This could theoretically reduce the number of garments people buy, which has quintupled since 1980.

It is idealistic but ultimately short-sighted to think the fashion industry can innovate itself out of a longstanding environmental crisis. Digital fashion will not outpace the physical clothing market anytime soon, if ever at all. Virtual clothes cannot be slotted into our closets as functional substitutes, unlike switching out whole milk for oat milk.

Fashion's stakeholders have rarely taken responsibility to right its structural wrongs. Instead, as Washington Post critic Robin Givhan observed, more of the industry's problems are "caused by short-term fixes instead of long-term strategies, the belief in quantity over quality and, of course, ego and inertia."

Fashion companies have already invested in artificial intelligence and machine learning technologies across the board to ensure supply chains move faster and more accurately. In fact, the speedy state of fashion is enabled by digital tools that can forecast trends, predict consumer behavior, and automate the checkout process. Nothing in fashion's track record suggests that the onset of digital-only fashion will change this. Sure, fewer resources might be deployed in the making of a virtual garment, thereby making the process much more "sustainable." Still, these clothes, if minted into NFTs, are not without their own carbon footprint.

As industry standards evolve, Loftus predicts that more physical projects will be designed via software and come with a "digital backend." Designers and retailers, then, can easily upload their work online or to the blockchain and sell designs as NFTs. What remains unclear is whether blockchain technology can effectively mitigate fashion's (questionably legal) copycat tendencies or, for that matter, any of the problems that have plagued it for decades.

The novelty - of digital fashion NFTs and the metaverse - has so far largely served as a nifty marketing diversion for the industry. Brands can claim to be investing in more sustainable technologies while maintaining their breakneck production speeds. They can fundraise for socially responsible causes with NFTs while outsourcing labor to countries where garment workers struggle to earn a living wage.

So long as our physical bodies take precedence over a virtual alternative, digital clothes and accessories are only a supplement to our teeming tangible closets. The physical world still imposes its demands on us, no matter what virtual realms we plug into during our free time. We still have to get dressed.

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In 2008, I purchased my first digital outfit. I gave little thought to the significance of my decision. It was just one aspect of Maplestory, the free online role-playing game my friends and I were obsessed with. The game's objective was to embark on a heroic adventure, and our virtual avatars had to be properly equipped for the journey.

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In a bid to be more sustainable in fashion, Lauren Bravo tries a wardrobe optimising app

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Save Your Wardrobe Review: A Fashion App for Sustainable Living | BURO

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In a bid to be more sustainable in fashion, Lauren Bravo tries a wardrobe optimising app

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The wellbeing economy expands.

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Products will track wellness in innovative ways.

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People desire to stay fit has still remained higher than before COVID-19.

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After months of working from home many of us have adopted new habits. Some dived into home cooking, while others tuned into YouTube and Instagram workouts, and nearly everyone mastered the Zoom look - comfortable on the bottom, stylish on the top. In this new reality comfort, wellness and health are becoming a bigger priority for consumers and are driving their purchase decisions.

MAJADAHONDA, MADRID, SPAIN - APRIL 19. Virginia Béjar, practicing yoga at home with an online ... [+]
Getty Images/Miguel Pereira

Consumers are becoming more cautious about their spending habits and are prioritising purchases in essential categories. While the fashion industry at large is going through tough times, not all the categories have been impacted the same way. According to McKinsey's State of Fashion report, the industry overall is likely to contract by 27-30% in 2020 compared with the 2019 baseline figure. Meanwhile sportswear, activewear, and loungewear are emerging as the winners in this tough battle for survival.

Sales of activewear in the US and the UK were up 40% and 97% respectively during the first week of April, according to retail analytics company Edited. This correlates with an increased interest in home workouts and online classes and a spike in Google searches in the first weeks of the global lockdowns. Despite more countries starting to lift shelter-in-places orders, the desire to stay fit has still remained higher than before COVID-19.

Google Trends shows a spike in searches related to home workouts amid COVID-19 pandemic.
Google Trends

Many activewear brands, from Gymshark to Lululemon, are now publishing regular online workouts and live classes on Instagram. Nike has capitalised on the #HomeWorkout movement as well. Despite retail stores being closed, Nike's revenues for the first quarter rose by 5% reaching $10.1 billion, with online sales up 36% compared to 2019. One of the most successful strategies was turning their Nike Training Club (a mobile app providing a range of online workouts) into a customer engagement channel and running special e-commerce promotions targeting regular users of the app. For example, the company dropped the subscription fees in China which led to a 30% increase in its digital sales in the country.

Nike has masterfully powered up its e-commerce channels with the increased consumer engagement. They ran a "Get kids moving at home" campaign and celebrity workouts with Dina Asher-Smith, the fastest British female athlete, while sharing tips on how to pick the right sports bra connected to their online store.

Home workouts and consumer tips on Nike's Nike Training Club mobile app.
Nike NTC mobile app

Workouts that can be done at home are not the only ones getting attention in recent months. An activity that has seen increased popularity is cycling. During the pandemic cycling was still permitted in many countries. In fact, in many places, it became the only appropriate and safe way of exercising outdoors without putting oneself or others at risk. According to the analytics company, NPD Group, in the US children's bike sales increased by 56% and adult bike sales - by 121% compared to March 2019. Even in Europe, where cycling has traditionally been a popular activity, sales have soared. According to the Bicycle Association trade body in the UK, bike sales in the country increased by 50% in April, with seven out of ten buyers being new or returning cyclists.

La Machine, a cycling and sportswear brand, have experienced a similar surge in their sales as well. In my conversations with Rens Robroek, the co-founder of the brand, he mentioned that "with the cycling community getting bigger and bigger, we've seen a significant growth of first-time shoppers". While the interest in cycling has soared, the brand didn't just stand idly by. They have doubled down on the community-building element in their communication. Robroek told me that "keeping our customers well informed about what is possible and what is not and ensuring that we meet their expectations is the key". He noticed that their customers, many of them being new to cycling, took extra time to research items before making purchases and the brand was there to provide any needed information and help with decision-making. The La Machine team also took this time to amplify their story of being a brand founded by dedicated cycling enthusiasts. They have been posting motivational pictures of cycling out in nature on their social media channels, to inspire those feeling cooped up in their homes.

Social media post by a fashion brand, La Machine Cycle Club
La Machine Cycle Club, Instagram

With lockdowns easing up in some countries, many sportswear brands are facing a challenge - will they be able to keep the sales up when people are now able to return to "normal"? While the interest in home workouts might fade, working remotely seems to be a habit that will be harder to shake off.

Large companies, like Shopify, Twitter, and Facebook have announced that their employees will be able to continue working from home even after the lockdowns are lifted. With more companies shifting to remote work, the "Zoom looks" are also becoming a social phenomenon. One of them is a combination of comfortable bottoms that won't be visible on a webcam, like yoga leggings or sweatpants, and stylish tops that people in the meeting get to see. According to Edited, sweatpants are now the fastest growing product category for active brands in the UK market, with leggings still being the most popular choice for female consumers. La Machine has leveraged this trend by expanding its offering from just sportswear to also include loungewear products like comfortable sweatpants and t-shirts. Customers might have come to their website during the pandemic in search of proper cycling wear but will have more options to choose from for an overall healthier lifestyle.

The desire to become and stay healthy has impacted the beauty industry as well. Overall the industry is expected to contract by 25-35%, according to McKinsey, and consumer preferences have also drastically shifted. Wearing masks and working from home reduced the need for buying more makeup and perfume. Consumers are now more interested in health and wellness. For example, the sales of a luxury hand soap in France were up 800% the week of March 16, 2020, when the country went into lockdown. Skin care is also among the growing categories with a 20% increase in sales.

Sales in various beauty categories in the United States by McKinsey, "How COVID-19 is changing the ... [+]
McKinsey

Organic and clean beauty products that avoid the use of harsh and toxic ingredients have especially increased in popularity. According to Afterpay, the leader in the "buy now, pay later" space, the clean beauty category has grown more than 20% since March 2020. Consumers are not only keen on taking care of themselves, they are also considering the long-term effects on their health.

Wellness, comfort, and health now occupy a more prominent place in consumer considerations and habits. The COVID-19 pandemic has drastically changed our notions of staying healthy and safe. Wearing masks, obsessively washing our hands and using hand sanitiser has become the norm and many governments are still mandating these even after lifting shelter-in-place rules. In my recent piece, I talked about the changes that fashion and beauty retailers are adopting - like contactless payments, no try-ons of clothing and makeup, and other initiatives. We are also seeing an overall shift in consumer spending - away from spontaneous and "feel good" fashion and makeup towards products that make them feel healthier in the long run. Brands would do well to take note of this change and act accordingly.

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The Pandemic Has Changed Consumer Preferences - It's All About Health And Comfort Now

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After months of working from home many of us have adopted new habits. Some dived into home cooking, while others tuned into YouTube and Instagram workouts, and nearly everyone mastered the Zoom look - comfortable on the bottom, stylish on the top.

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This Weighted Robe Might Feel Like a Hug From an Actual Human

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This Weighted Robe Might Feel Like a Hug From an Actual Human

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If You Love Weighted Blankets, Feast Your Eyes on This Robe

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Invest In: Ore's Gold Ring That Links You To Your Own Star

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Invest In: Ore's Gold Ring That Links You To Your Own Star

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Born of an exploration into our emotional connection with luxury within a digital context, London brand Ore is throwing wide open notions of value around traditional gemstone-based jewelry. With the support of a team of experts, two designers have combined awe-inspiring technology, extra-terrestrial materials, and futuristic manmade matter, into a ring that provides the wearer with a direct link to their own star. Meet the Lucy Ring, which takes wearable tech to a poetic new level and brings a whole new meaning to bespoke, by gently glowing each time an individual star passes overhead.

It takes a very particular meeting of minds to come up with such an original concept and former architect Tess O'Leary admits that the Lucy ring "is not something that any single person would be able to achieve on their own". Along with her business partner, design strategist Daljit Singh, she has assembled a UK-based team of technical engineers, software programmers, UX and star data experts, and an artisan jeweler based in London's fine jewelry heartland of Hatton Garden to work collaboratively on each ring.

Such a body of expertise produces one of the most technically complex and thoughtful interpretations of luxury around today, connecting the wearer - or custodian - via a timer, with their own White Dwarf star, a giant diamond in the cosmos weighing several billion carats. Each 18-carat gold ring houses pallasite meteorite crystals and Vantablack, the darkest matter known to humanity, grown fiber by fiber onto the gold itself, in a reactor. As the star moves overhead, the ring gently vibrates, LEDs activate and the stones begin to softly glow. It also continuously logs the wearer's location in relation to the star, leaving behind a digital archive for future generations who come into contact with this heirloom piece, "conjuring an emotional connection that not only stretches millions of miles above us to the stars, but across generations into the future," according to O'Leary.

The aim is to "embody a profound sense of place, space, time and movement," she says, and to do so, the brand has harnessed both extra-terrestrial materials and rare manmade matter, creating a link with "colossal movements in the natural world." A Kansas-based team of meteorite hunters source stones that have crashed down to earth, and Surrey NanoSystems, based in Southern England, provides the Vantablack, of which Ore is one of very few companies making creative use.

Each ring is bespoke and production takes between six weeks and three months, depending on how much customization is required: "the meteorite can be laid out in any constellation - astrological or astronomical. The color of the peridot itself can range from a fresh olive to a warm amber. And the glow can be set to different tempos as desired - a slow glow or more of a sparkle.". Despite making full use of advanced technology, the team behind Ore position themselves as going against the grain of digital-enabled trend turnover and instant gratification, to encourage a slower form of consumption.

It's an approach that places the holy grail of luxury marketing - the memorable experience - at the heart of the product itself, rather than as a way to raise awareness via lavish events, and millennial luxury consumers are listening up. Since launching in 2018, Ore has already seen a lot of interest in Asia and in the US: "we've always held the space pioneers in our heads as an ideal customer; anyone adventurous, bold, design-savvy. Also, the West Coast tech entrepreneurs who appreciate digital intelligence and look for meaning in their investments.". See also: big thinkers, philanthropists and anyone who engages with major world issues.

The Lucy ring is a very special piece of jewelry rooted in bespoke craftsmanship, ethical sourcing and experiential value. In the pipeline, Ore has other objects designed to connect people to natural phenomena, including a "wrist-mounted piece that tracks the discovery of supernovae and subsequent black holes". All the elements of contemporary luxury are there, but in a world saturated with images, Ore is "playing in a strange space of the unseen - vibrations, darkness and magnetic fields. We are asking our custodians to use imagination to construct their own notion of beauty." And with it, an entirely new interpretation of luxury today.

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Invest In: Ore's Gold Ring That Links You To Your Own Star

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Born of an exploration into our emotional connection with luxury within a digital context, London brand Ore is throwing wide open notions of value around traditional gemstone-based jewelry. With the support of a team of experts, two designers have combined awe-inspiring technology, extra-terrestrial materials, and futuristic manmade matter, into a ring that provides the wearer with a direct link to their own star.

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You can now get special underwear to help with menopausal hot flushes

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You can now get special underwear to help with menopausal hot flushes

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You can now get special underwear to help with menopausal hot flushes

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The fabric is designed to keep you cool.

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MR PORTER launches first Mr Porter Health In Mind exclusive sport capsule with Rapha

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MR PORTER launches first Mr Porter Health In Mind exclusive sport capsule with Rapha

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Prana can be a tricky thing to understand because it's unseen. It is, however, felt. Through a clearer awareness of what prana is and what it isn't, it's possible to become more closely connected to the energy of prana in a felt sense. When we connect to prana, we connect to the world around us and to our true selves.

This article explains the contexts in which prana occurs - the body channels, chakras, in meditation and pranyama, and around us - and explores different practices that work with prana. Discover free guided meditations that help to feel, balance and direct prana within your body along the way.

What Is Prana?

Prana In Context

There are over 3,000 years of references to prana which transcend cultures and spiritual traditions. Prana is a mainstay of Hindu, Ayurvedic, Hatha Yoga and Tantric Yoga traditions, but similar references to the "life force" are seen in the Chinese principle of , ancient Roman , ancient Greece's , of the Islamic tradition, of the Hebrew tradition, and the Christian Holy Spirit.

While not the same as the breath, prana is often defined as breath or respiration. Additional definitions include life force, spiritual energy, vital winds, inner winds, spirit or soul.

Some traditions identify up to five or ten different types of prana, related to inward moving energy, outward moving energy, upward and downward energy, or energy-related to particular places in the body such as the head and throat, the heart or digestion.

Prana And The Sun, Moon & Central Channels

While each of us humans has a form body, our physical shape, we also have a subtle or energetic body. The subtle body, which can be likened to one's aura, extends beyond the physical body. This is what makes it possible for one to "light up a room" or for us to intuitively sense the energy of another.

The subtle body's central nervous system is a network of channels, or , comprised of a main central channel, two main side channels-the sun and the moon-and, depending on the tradition, 72,000 or more smaller channels.

The Sun Channel

As downward traveling energy-associated with exhale breath-moves through the pingala channel, we experience a rejection of the outside world. "Ignorant" disliking is labeled as such because we mistakenly believe by ridding ourselves of certain people or things lasting happiness will arise. The wise yogi understands that happiness comes from within.

The Moon Channel

With upward movement of prana through the ida channel, associated with the inhale, the mind is attracted outward to objects of desire, "ignorantly" craving what it mistakenly thinks will cause happiness. The yogi understands that happiness is an inside job and that lasting happiness is not found in impermanent objects or people.

The Central Channel

Running just in front of the spine is the central channel, sushumna or avadhuti, the singing or shaking channel. The name is in part a reference to the hum of pure bliss that arises when prana flows freely through this nadi.

To move the energies of ha and Hatha yoga was originally a forceful practice designed to push and pull the inner winds into the central channel through physical manipulation of the body. tha from the side channels into the central channel is the ultimate goal of ha-tha yoga.

When prana is flowing freely in the central channel we have reached , full integration. Wisdom, pure thoughts, complete joy and contentment flow through the central channel.
Connect to the pingala, ida, and sushumna channels within your body with these guided meditations that you can also easily find and bookmark on the Insight Timer app:
Prana And The Chakras

Where the two main side channels and their numerous "capillaries" become wrapped and interwoven around the central channel, they form wheel-like shapes, or . The points at which these chakras cross the central channel can become choke points, blocking the flow of prana. When we say someone's chakra is "blocked" it's the central channel that's blocked, with the chakra as the culprit.

Traditions vary in describing the exact placement and number of chakras. Most Hindu traditions name six or seven chakras, while Buddhists refer to five.

Both yoga and meditation free up these choke points or chakras by moving prana from the side channels in toward the central channel. As side channel energy is minimized, the "choking" effect fades away. On Insight Timer, you can discover and practice with hundreds of free guided chakra meditations.
In this article, Caroline Stewart explores how to balance chakras and release the energy in your body.
Sensing Prana In The Body

Physically, in a yoga class, as prana moves more freely you may feel an electric charge run through the body. When we "get the shivers" or a "gut feeling" we are responding to prana and the sixth sense of the subtle body.

We can also recognize what prana is doing by watching the breath. As the electricity of prana runs through the right side channel, for example, it exits the right nostril. In these moments, the logical, left side of the brain is most active. When the left nostril is active, the creative, right side of the brain dominates.

Normally, one nostril or the other is dominant, changing approximately every hour. When we've reached a state of nirvana, samadhi, or complete absorption in meditation, we will finally breathe equally through both sides of the nose, energy no longer flowing through the side channels.

An easy way to connect with prana is to notice felt sensations related to the breath. It's no accident that we relate inhale breath to happiness, greater energy, and awake and vibrant feelings. We relate exhale breath, a sigh out, to sadness, disappointment, and letting go. This cycle of happiness and sadness, ever-changing and impermanent, is the cycle we exist in for as long as we continue to breathe.
Read more: Awareness of prana is a lifelong practice. In this article, explore how to deepen your awareness for asana practice which helps to feel the movement of your body's inner energy.
Prana In Meditation

As yoga pushes, pulls and moves the inner winds toward the central channel through physical means, meditation does the same through the influence of the mind. Classical texts say our thoughts ride prana like a rider on a horse. Thus, it's possible to use intentional thoughts to guide prana toward the center as the rider guides the horse.

Through meditation and pranayama, we learn to control the flow of the breath. Many of us have noticed that when our meditation is agitated, the breath is too. When our meditation is calm, resting in the sweet spot, our breath is barely noticeable.

Since mind, prana, thoughts and breath are interconnected, all of them can change by focusing on any one.

At Insight Timer, we have created a free playlist with guided meditations that help to connect to prana, the world around us and our true selves:

Pranayama

Ayurvedic pranayama techniques help to cure illness and keep us physically healthy. There are plenty of pranayama techniques to increase and calm our energy, warm our bodies and clear our minds. A 2012 study has shown that the popular ujjayi breathing technique turns off our physical response to stress.

Through the combination of asana, meditation and pranayama, the latent energy or prana at the base of the spine travels upwards through the central channel and out the crown chakra, bringing us to enlightenment. This also happens at the moment of conscious death, as prana is directed first to the heart chakra, and then expelled from the body through the crown of the head. You might want to read our beginner's guide on how to breathe in yoga to balance body and mind.
Dive deep into the practice of pranayama and discover your ability to control prana through classic techniques that soothe and energize with the guided 10-day course "Pranayama For Restoring Vitality". Listen to day one below:
Prana Within And Without

Prana as a universal energy exists not only within our subtle body channels but all around. We are not separate from the energy of prana in the wind, the earth, water and fire. Our inner winds are related to the winds without.

As we practice awareness of prana in body and breath, we can also practice noticing the movement of energy in the environment around us, the weather, and how the foods we eat, caffeine or intoxicants affect energy within.

Awareness of prana and the subtle body is a lifelong practice. In meditation, awareness of our thoughts gifts us the space to respond to them more wisely. Awareness of prana gifts us the same ability. Over time, with deeper awareness, we're able to intentionally move that energy toward center, and experience an undisturbable contentment and bliss.
Read more: Explore the meaning and layers of drishti, the yogic gaze, and how it applies to live offside the yoga mat.

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What Is Prana & How Can We Feel It? - Insight Timer Blog

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Prana can be a tricky thing to understand because it's unseen. It is, however, felt. Through a clearer awareness of what prana is and what it isn't, it's possible to become more closely connected to the energy of prana in a felt sense.

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Is inclusivity part of the sustainable spectrum?

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Is inclusivity part of the sustainable spectrum?

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Is inclusivity part of the sustainable spectrum? - Fashion Revolution

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This is a guest blog post by Samanta Bullock and Ana Román from SB Shop. The fashion industry is much more than just trends; it is a way to communicate our ideas and our personality. We are part of a diverse planet, with many unique people with different abilities. This is why we should design... Vi…

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This Is What’s Missing in Fashion’s Inclusivity Movement

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This Is What’s Missing in Fashion’s Inclusivity Movement

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This Is What’s Missing in Fashion’s Inclusivity Movement

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Despite the industry’s push for greater diversity and inclusivity, Fashion Week is still leaving out the disabled community. Will spring 2022 be the season we start seeing adaptive fashion and disabled models on the runway?

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The Fight For Adaptive Fashion: How People With Disabilities Struggle To Be Seen

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The Fight For Adaptive Fashion: How People With Disabilities Struggle To Be Seen

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The Fight For Adaptive Fashion: How People With Disabilities Struggle To Be Seen

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Major retailers are increasingly designing with disabled people in mind. But are their inclusivity efforts making a difference? We consulted some of the industry’s leading disability advocates on the challenges facing the adaptive apparel movement.

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Inclusive Retail: Shifts & Strategies 2022.

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Disability Representation Is Crucial To Building More Inclusive Fashion Industry

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Disability Representation Is Crucial To Building More Inclusive Fashion Industry

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"There are so many people who feel underrepresented, who feel like they don't exist, who feel invisible in a very visible setting," she says of her motivation. "I wanted them to feel like they belong - like they can also be models."

People with disabilities are often praised for their bravery - a compliment that can feel unsettling because many of us wouldn't consider ourselves brave for simply pursuing the things we want, just like everybody else. Our stubbornness, however, is something that people might want to take note of.

Where Mercado paved the way, others have followed. There's model Aaron Philip who, in 2018, became the first Black, transgender, and physically disabled model to be represented by a major modelling agency, after one of her tweets went viral. Similarly, deaf, transgender model Chella Man gained traction after sharing photos of himself online.

There's also lecturer, writer and disability advocate Sinéad Burke - a little person from Ireland who graced the cover of British Vogue in September 2019. Burke was also the first little person to attend the Met Gala that same year, challenging traditional views on inclusion in her custom-made Gucci gown. A year later, Gucci made headlines by casting Ellie Goldstein, a young model with Down syndrome as the new face of Gucci Beauty.

Beyond representation

The inclusion of disabled bodies within fashion and beauty has been a major step in the right direction, but the industry has a long way to go. "Seeing disability representation as a key component of diversity is a start," says Scalesse. It's true, while the industry has been quick to answer calls from some minority communities, ours seems somewhat left behind.

It's about time we move beyond optics and tokenism. Yes, we need to see more people with disabilities in front of the camera, but we also need to see them behind the camera, too. We need to see people who look like us in positions of power at magazines, at global beauty and fashion brands, at the teams behind fashion weeks, in casting agencies, in all of the places where we have historically been forgotten.

After all, what good is seeing someone that looks like you in a campaign if a brand can't meet your needs? Likewise, why cast a model in a shoot or runway show when she cannot properly access the venue or backstage?

In a lot of ways, 2020 was a year of awakening. A year to recognise all the voices that were being ignored. Brands that had never been held to account before were being called out on their tokenism and unequal treatment of minorities, while the whole world was forced to slow down and listen. 2021 should be the year of action.
More from British Vogue:

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Disability Representation Is Crucial To Building More Inclusive Fashion Industry

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"There are so many people who feel underrepresented, who feel like they don't exist, who feel invisible in a very visible setting," she says of her motivation. "I wanted them to feel like they belong - like they can also be models."

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Is fashion doing enough to be disability-inclusive?

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Is fashion doing enough to be disability-inclusive?

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Though a variety of brands are exploring more adaptive clothing, disability continues to see a lack of representation in the fashion industry.

Regardless of the positive and progressive changes the fashion industry has been making lately in terms of diversity, sustainability, and inclusion, there are still people who continue to feel under-represented.

According to the World Health Organisation, there are more than 1 billion people living with some kind of disability around the world, accounting for 15% of the entire global population and representing the largest minority group.

The demand for adaptive fashion is very real, but adaptive wear is still a niche market that struggles to reach consumers.

Disabled models are rarely seen in online editorials, magazines, or on the runway and consumers with physical disabilities are frequently neglected among luxury and high street brands.

The prevalence of this was revealed in 2019 when leading disability charity Leonard Cheshire conducted a survey highlighting the lack of choice for disabled shoppers in mainstream fashion.

Bringing to light that body shaming and ageism are not the only stigmas within fashion we should currently be combatting, the report uncovered that 75% of disabled people do not feel as though their needs are being met by the industry, and a staggering 96% also believe that they aren't being sufficiently represented.

'The fashion industry doesn't consider the shape of a person who has to sit in a chair, who might have a larger stomach or shorter body,' said participant Kim Nash at the time.

'When was the last time a designer took a range of people with different needs and thought "let's make a fashionable, affordable wardrobe for everyday occasions for people like me?"'

For many disabled people, off-the-rail garments are inaccessible and cause discomfort.

Due to restricted mobility, clothing choices can impact whether or not they can operate functionally. So, why has necessary progress to rectify this been so slow?

While fashion may be inherently speedy when taking on the latest trends, it hasn't been quite so quick to jump at the opportunity to represent people of different abilities.

Arguably, the perpetuation of deep-rooted stereotypes is to blame, specifically ableism (discrimination in favour of the able-bodied) which both the industry and the media are at fault of disseminating. Unfortunately, however, that's not all.

Much of the clothing designed for those with disabilities is inclined to functionality, leaving the style component overlooked.

This means that, although the solution can in fact be as simple as using different types of easy-access fixtures such as magnetic buttons, one-handed zips, adjustable Velcro hemlines, and bungee-cord closures for example, designers view the process of reconfiguring silhouettes entirely as too challenging and expensive.

Thinking about fashion in this way requires them to become engineers, utilising problem-solving, innovation and empathy, the likes of which is regularly deemed too difficult a task.

'There was a lot of interest in figuring out design developments in the '60s, but there was no relationship between that research to fashion and style because the business wasn't seen as viable,' says Kerri McBee-Black, a professor who studies clothing and disabilities.

''It was seen as a costly endeavour, and there was an association that a majority of people with disabilities are low-income and don't care about fashion.'

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Is fashion doing enough to be disability-inclusive? - Thred Website

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Regardless of the positive and progressive changes the fashion industry has been making lately in terms of diversity, sustainability, and inclusion, there are still people who continue to feel under-represented. According to the World Health Organisation, there are more than 1 billion people living with some kind of disability around the world, accounting for 15% of the entire global population and representing the largest minority group.

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Why we must talk about representativeness and inclusivity in fashion for the disabled?

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Why we must talk about representativeness and inclusivity in fashion for the disabled?

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Why We Must Talk About Representativeness and Inclusivity in Fashion for the Disabled

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The number of people with disabilities is representative. So, how is it possible that, even so, most brands do not think of them when making their products?

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Beyond greige orthopaedic footwear and sweatpants - a cardinal sin according to the late Karl Lagerfeld - your options as a trend-seeking disabled shopper have been slim pickings. In a land where "figure hugging" is a powerchair poncho, it seems sartorial rules need not apply.

However, the last year has seen a radical rethink in our understanding of how to design for disability. The rise in adaptive fashion - clothing specifically designed for those with disabilities and chronic conditions - reflects newfound awareness of inclusive design. In fact, searches for adaptive clothing saw an increase of 80% over 2019, according to global fashion search platform Lyst. This encompasses everything from discrete elasticated waistbands, which are pinch-free when seated, to magnetic fastenings for independent dressing. All aspects of the garment are fabricated with the wearer's everyday challenges in mind. So, for many of the UK's 13.9 million disabled people, it is welcome progress.
The pioneers of adaptive fashion
As the first mainstream brand to launch an adaptive fashion line, Tommy Hilfiger has illustrated - with aplomb - the power of creating stylish clothing for consumers who have been historically overlooked. Unveiled at New York fashion week in September, the latest Tommy Hilfiger X Zendaya collection features 10 adaptive styles. Think 70s-style metallic gold turtleneck with hidden zipper and houndstooth blazer featuring magnetic closures.

Likewise, earlier this year Nike launched their Air Zoom Pegasus 35 FlyEase trainers in the UK - a model with revolutionary adaptive technology. A wraparound zip at the back of the shoe connects to cables that tighten the laces - allowing the wearer to put on the shoe with one hand. With the 2020 Paralympics on the horizon, Nike recently announced a new partnership with Handsfree Labs Inc, a pioneer in hands-free footwear technology. This whole endeavour was sparked by a letter from an American student with cerebral palsy sharing his dream of tying shoe laces independently.

Consumer demand was also the catalyst for Seasalt's Easy On line, which launched in March after customers of the Cornish-lifestyle brand requested inclusive options. The adaptive collection features sleeve loops to help pull garments on, large zip-pulls and magnetic fastenings on their popular styles.
New start-ups offering disability-friendly fashion

Kintsugi 's adaptive clothing.

In February, a Manchester-based start-up Kintsugi joined the adaptive fashion market. Its name draws on the Japanese art form of repairing broken pottery with gold lacquer-reflecting the brand's philosophy that all individualism is beautiful. The founder Emma McClelland believes we cannot underestimate the importance of chic yet accessible clothes: "The brand is about empowerment - it's a middle finger to the fashion industry's reluctance to represent people who fall outside its narrow limits."

This idea of design bias is also the driving force of FFORA, a new accessory line for wheelchair users. Since July, FFORA has launched leather bags, lifestyle products and minimalist attachments for mobility aids. Created by Welsh-born Lucy Jones, whose thesis collection for disabled people landed her on the Forbes 30 Under 30 list - it is a masterclass in modern, inclusive fashion.

Lifestyle influencer Lauren Spencer at the 40th Annual Media Access Awards, styled by Stephanie Thomas of Cur8able. Photograph: Joshua Blanchard/Getty Images for Media Access Awards

Likewise, a new London-based lingerie brand Elba - "Able" spelt backwards - focuses on front-fastening bras for individuals with limited mobility or difficulty dressing. Their patented magnetic closure is concealed at the front to balance the need for functionality with sleek styling.
Designing for disability
This year, ongoing conversations about diversity in fashion have provoked questions such as: how can brands better cater to all minority groups? But when it comes to designing for a wide range of disabilities, this simple question is still considered a Herculean task. The design process is multifaceted and often demands medical input.

According to Stephanie Thomas, disability stylist and founder of Cur8able, there are three vital requirements - a garment must be accessible when dressing, medically safe, and all-importantly look fashionable. Ten years in the making, her trademarked Disability Fashion Styling System has become the definitive guide for adaptive fashion design. "As a woman with a disability I want to shop brands that are in line with my aesthetic ... I like adaptive clothing that's beautifully designed with disability in mind."
A financially lucrative market

Actor Selma Blair backstage at the TIME 100 Health Summit in October this year.
Photograph: Craig Barritt/Getty Images for TIME 100 Health Summit

For many forward-thinking brands, offering inclusive fashion is not just a moral decision. It is based on the knowledge that disabled shoppers represent £249bn of spending power. Known as the " purple pound", they remain the largest untapped consumer market. This year, Coresight Research even estimated the adaptive clothing market will reach $288.7bn globally in 2019. But, more than ever, consumers want to align themselves with brands that make a positive impact. Whether it is sustainability or inclusivity, social consciousness is the hottest trend right now.
What's next for adaptive fashion?
In the last year, activists such as Selma Blair and Sinéad Burke have proved that disability and style are not mutually exclusive. But the high street does not yet reflect this shift. Unlike the US, where a handful of mainstream stores have adaptive lines, UK retailers remain slow to enter the market. Designers must also address the unmet demand for disability-friendly workwear and occasionwear -because even sport-luxe sweatpants can't take you everywhere.

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Why 2019 was a landmark year for disabled fashion

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Beyond greige orthopaedic footwear and sweatpants - a cardinal sin according to the late Karl Lagerfeld - your options as a trend-seeking disabled shopper have been slim pickings. In a land where "figure hugging" is a powerchair poncho, it seems sartorial rules need not apply.

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World’s First Digital Only Blockchain Clothing Sells For $9,500

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Digital clothing is not readily accessible to the masses yet, but it took a leap closer this weekend. Digital fashion pioneers The Fabricant, create digital clothing by harnessing 2D garment pattern-cutting and 3D design software, coupled with film rendering tools to create hyper-real clothing.

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This is the platform for contactless experiences. No sex or size. No shipping. No waste.

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How Digital Fashion Could Replace Fast Fashion, And The Startup Paving The Way

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To continue to trade in the face of these challenges, fashion brands have adopted digital methods of prototyping, thereby reducing waste and lead times and streamlining physical production post-lockdown. While such global brands adapt, other fashion industry visionaries are reinventing.

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What we did in the past:
More Dash Fashion experience Pop-Up Store Melrose Place LA June, 2019
Fashion Experience Pop-Up Store is bringing together selection of the best contemporary brands from worldwide for you!
More Dash Fashion experience Pop-Up Store November 26th - December 23rd, 2019 Content Creation Experience Beverly Center LA
Our Fashion Experience Pop-Up Stores will give you an opportunity to enjoy fashion for a fraction of the price you usually pay for a new dress.

Get your personal fashion experience. Share the content you have created with friends and followers.

The experience we are building will be available in different cities around the world. Sign up for our newsletter at moredash.com for more information on our Fashion Experience Pop-Up Stores and to receive early-bird invitations to our next Content Creation Studios across the world!
What happens to me in your Content Creation Studio?
Follow @moredashcom - we will be announcing looks available on our Instagram!

In every More Dash Content Creation Studio you will find a selection of clothing that you can try on and take photos and videos in our Content Creation Studio. We make sure that the content you create looks great and is ready to be shared across all your social media platforms - or just shared with friends and your loved ones. By having your fashion experience in the content creation space you agree to post content to your social media and tag @moredashcom and the brands!
Can I buy the look I was using for the content creation?
Though we really hope you will, we would be happy to hear your thoughts about why it didn't work. We want to improve every day and we believe each of our clients should be happy with the result. Shoot us an e-mail to hello@moredash.com and we'll discuss what went wrong and how we can fix it.
Can I come with a friend?
All looks are available for sale and pre-orders online at moredash.com and in More Dash Pop-Up! Make sure to check our website and instagram @moredashcom before your visit - you will see lots of brands we are working with.
Have a question we didn't answer?
Absolutely yes!

Find us on Instagram @moredashcom, DM us or leave the comment!
More Dash ﻿Fashion Talks x Youtube Space LA November 21st, 2019
You can also reach us at hello@moredash.com

Content Creation Studio Images

Photos by Emily Ely

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What we did in the past: More Dash Fashion experience Pop-Up Store Melrose Place LA June, 2019 Fashion Experience Pop-Up Store is bringing together selection of the best contemporary brands from worldwide for you!

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The concept of wellness has been around for a long time. Remember Jane Fonda workout tapes, neon legwarmers, and the "cookie diet"? These days, consumers view wellness through a much broader and more sophisticated lens, encompassing not just fitness and nutrition but also overall physical and mental health and appearance. They also have more choice in the types of products and services they buy and the way they buy them.

Our latest research shows that consumers care deeply about wellness-and that their interest is growing. In a survey of roughly 7,500 consumers in six countries, 79 percent of the respondents said they believe that wellness is important, and 42 percent consider it a top priority. In fact, consumers in every market we researched reported a substantial increase in the prioritization of wellness over the past two to three years.

We estimate the global wellness market at more than $1.5 trillion, with annual growth of 5 to 10 percent. A rise in both consumer interest and purchasing power presents tremendous opportunities for companies, particularly as spending on personal wellness rebounds after stagnating or even declining during the COVID-19 crisis. At the same time, the wellness market is getting increasingly crowded, creating the need to be strategic about where and how companies compete.

In this article, we'll reveal what our survey data tell us about changing consumer attitudes and behavior toward wellness. We'll couple these insights with the best strategies for companies-both established players and new entrants-to meet consumer needs and preferences in this strong and growing market.

How consumers define wellness

Since views of wellness are constantly evolving, companies must understand the market from a consumer perspective. Our Future of Wellness survey revealed the categories that interest consumers most (Exhibit 1).

Better health, probably the most traditional category associated with wellness, extends beyond medicine and supplements to include consumer medical devices as well as personal-health trackers. Consumers are increasingly taking their health into their own hands: we are seeing a rise in targeted, data-driven care, apps to help consumers seamlessly book their medical appointments or obtain the prescriptions they need, and devices that help them monitor their own health and symptoms between doctor's appointments.

Better fitness has been challenging over the past year. Many consumers struggle to maintain pre-COVID-19 fitness levels when they can't go to their gyms as frequently or participate in sports in the same ways as before. For instance, a UK study found that a majority of consumers worked out less after the pandemic lockdowns began, and many did not return to their previous exercise levels even as those lockdowns were eased or lifted. However, fitness goals persist. Creative offerings (such as Peloton, Mirror, and Tonal) that meet the needs of consumers in their homes have seen unprecedented growth in the past year.

Better nutrition has always been a part of wellness, but now consumers want food not only to taste good but also to help them accomplish their wellness goals. More than a third of consumers around the world report that they "probably" or "definitely" plan to increase spending on nutrition apps, diet programs, juice cleanses, and subscription food services over the next year.

Better appearance primarily involves wellness-oriented apparel ("athleisure") and beauty products (such as skincare and collagen supplements). A number of service-oriented offerings in this area have sprung up recently for nonsurgical aesthetic procedures, such as microneedling, lasers, and oxygen jets.

Better sleep is a relatively new category popular with consumers-and maybe that's no wonder, given the stresses the pandemic has unleashed. Traditional sleep medications such as melatonin now have company: app-enabled sleep trackers and other sleep-enhancing products (for example, blackout curtains and gravity blankets). Half of consumers around the world reported a desire for more products and services to meet the need for higher-quality slumber.

Better mindfulness has gained mainstream consumer acceptance relatively recently, in the form of meditation-focused apps, such as Headspace and Calm, and relaxation- and meditation-oriented offerings, such as Travaasa and Soothe. During the COVID-19 crisis, reports of mental distress have increased globally; more than half of consumers in each of our surveyed countries said they want to prioritize mindfulness more. Half of the consumers said they wished that more mindfulness products and services were available, indicating an opportunity for companies.

Each of these six categories is important for consumers across our survey countries. Better health consistently appears as the most important wellness dimension (and the one with the highest level of spending) across every market we researched.

At the same time, relative responses vary in other categories. For example, consumers in Japan prioritize appearance while those in Germany emphasize fitness; respondents in Brazil and the United States are most interested in mindfulness, those in China and the United Kingdom in nutrition (Exhibit 2).

In overall spending, consumers expect to increase their purchases of both wellness products and services over the next year. We expect a greater shift toward services, especially those (such as personal training, nutritionists, and counseling) that emphasize physical and mental health (Exhibit 3).

Finally, companies should understand that wellness consumers aren't a monolithic bloc with lockstep preferences. Our survey showed that they tend to fall into distinct groups that behave very differently. Wellness enthusiasts are high-income consumers who actively follow brands on social media, track new-product launches, and are excited about innovations. The socially responsible prefer (and are willing to pay more for) brands that are environmentally sustainable and with clean/natural ingredients. Price-conscious consumers believe wellness products are important but meticulously compare features and benefits before purchasing to get the best deal.

Loyalists prefer to stick with their current routines and the brands they know, while passive participants are only marginally involved with the wellness category and don't actively follow brands or new products. We found that wellness enthusiasts and socially responsible consumers are the biggest spenders. The loyalists and passive participants spend far less than people in the other groups.

While consumers in each market are motivated by a unique set of brand-loyalty drivers, all have some motivation that's connected to price and lifestyle compatibility.

Consumer trends and how companies can respond to them

The research unearthed that consumers' reported improvements in wellness levels have fallen behind their hopes and expectations in every country except China and Brazil, suggesting that the market may be underserved. Most consumers around the world report that their personal wellness levels are stagnating or even declining (Exhibit 4).

The research also revealed six consumer wellness-related trends that have been gaining momentum over time. Overall, these trends have implications for industry players across the sector, from traditional consumer healthcare to fitness offerings and nutrition to beauty, apparel, and retail. A number of strategies, applied correctly, can help companies meet the consumer's needs and capitalize on the rapid growth of this sector.

Trend 1: Natural/clean products get their day in the sun

Consumers are keen for natural/clean products in an array of areas, such as skincare, cosmetics, multivitamins, subscription food services, and sleep enhancers. The magnitude of the shift is striking. Consumers overwhelmingly indicate a preference for natural/clean products, particularly in Brazil and China.

In the case of dietary supplements, consumers around the world said, by 41 percent to 21 percent, that if they had to choose between more natural supplements and more effective ones, they would choose the more natural option. Same with skincare: by 36 percent to 21 percent, consumers said they would choose the more natural option over the more effective one.

Potential strategy for companies. Reevaluate your development road map to consider whether you have more opportunities to introduce natural or wellness-oriented products or to acquire natural/clean product lines. This strategy could look different by segment: in apparel, products designed with organic/natural materials and sustainability in mind; in consumer health, natural/clean beauty products; in retail, merchandising with an eye to products that resonate as authentically natural.

Zarbee's Naturals focused on providing a solution for parents seeking natural remedies for their children; Sephora's private-label brand has launched clean makeup products and has significantly expanded its clean makeup presence in its stores.

Trend 2: More personalization, please

While many respondents told us privacy is still a concern, many (particularly in Brazil and China) are more comfortable trading privacy for personalization. Furthermore, a substantial majority of consumers around the world say they prioritize personalization now more than they did two or three years ago. In the United States, the United Kingdom, and Germany, more than 88 percent of consumers report prioritizing personalization as much as or more than they did two or three years ago.

Potential strategy for companies. Develop personalized marketing capabilities to target the precise consumer segments that may be most interested in your products, with messaging and storytelling tailored to those consumers. Consider introducing personalized or semipersonalized offerings to your product road map.

A wellness start-up, for example, provides personalized vitamin and supplement subscriptions based on information that consumers submit through a quiz. A fitness-tech company created a fitness tracker that collects physiological data to provide personalized sleep and fitness information to users. Membership includes the tracker, access to daily analytics and coaching, and the ability to join online communities.

Trend 3: The future is digital

The shift to digital channels is happening at the speed of "a decade in days." Our research suggests that the change will be sticky: a majority of consumer categories will continue to project more growth in e-commerce than in other channels over the next several years.

We do see traditional channels holding for certain product categories: fortified foods, multivitamins, and skincare still largely sell through brick-and-mortar stores. Other breakout categories (such as fitness wearables) are almost entirely online native. Consumers in China report the highest share of wellness spending online, followed by those in Japan and trailed by those in Europe, the United States, and Brazil.

Potential strategy for companies. Create seamless omnichannel and digital offerings to ensure that you meet your consumers where they are. Beyond building channel partner relationships, consider developing a supply chain, package sizes, marketing, or the like specifically for e-commerce. For service offerings such as gyms, use a holistic online strategy to build app-enabled features that keep consumers engaged throughout the ecosystem.

For example, one vitamin brand sold only online and known for being sustainable originally offered vitamins for women but has expanded to include products for men and children. Its ecosystem includes the company's app, which is integrated into Apple Health, as well as an active social-media presence.

Trend 4: Under the influencers

Influencers are a key part of the wellness market, and one that traditional companies have had to learn how to leverage for connecting with consumers. In the United States, Europe, and Japan, 10 to 15 percent of consumers say they follow social-media influencers and that they have already made a purchase based on an influencer's recommendation. A much higher percentage say they definitely or probably will consider doing so in the future.

In China and Brazil, the percentage of consumers who say that an influencer has driven their purchasing decisions is much higher, at 45 to 55 percent. This trend applies consistently across both large-scale social-media influencers (defined as 100,000 followers or more) and small-scale influencers (less than 100,000 followers). In unwelcome news for celebrities, their influence appears to be waning among most consumers, particularly in the United Kingdom.

Potential strategy for companies. Use influencers to win with your consumers across social channels, partnering with agencies to identify people who will be a natural fit with your brand and resonate authentically with your target consumer base. For instance, one European fitness-apparel company heavily utilizes influencer marketing on Instagram and YouTube to reach its target audience of young fitness enthusiasts.

In 2015, McKinsey data showed that social media influenced 26 percent of purchases across all product categories, a percentage that has increased since then. Our survey shows that wellness is no exception: in every market we researched, more than 60 percent of consumers report that they will "definitely" or "probably" consider a brand or product posted by a favorite influencer.

Trend 5: The rise and rise of services

Services has been a growing part of the wellness market: experiences are increasingly available as offerings. We see this trend reflected across countries-consumers are shifting toward services that address physical- and mental-health needs (for instance, personal trainers, nutritionists, and counseling services). We see services as an enhancement to-not a replacement for-the overall wellness space. Products remain a consistent and critical part of the segment, at roughly 70 percent of self-reported consumer wellness spending globally.

Potential strategy for companies. Consumer healthcare companies could consider diagnostics or coaching offerings that support a direct connection to the consumer. One company partnered with a telemedicine provider to introduce an app that gives parents immediate video access to healthcare providers for their children. Fitness companies could consider offerings such as connected devices and virtual communities-products and services beyond gyms and exercise equipment.

Peloton expanded its service offering to include subscriptions for its fitness app, in-person studios, and live virtual classes, allowing it to reach consumers who may not own Peloton workout equipment. The company's sales soared in 2020 as the popularity of home workouts increased during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Trend 6: Category lines continue to blur

With the above trends in mind, companies are considering how to play across the health and wellness categories and channels. It's critical to identify the areas where consumers are open to giving these companies permission to extend their brands.

A majority of consumers report that they don't want a single solution or brand to help them with all facets of wellness, suggesting that targeted extensions are a more effective approach for companies.

Potential strategy for companies. Assess M&A opportunities to gain entry into more categories within the wellness ecosystem. With this approach, it is important to ensure that any acquisition has a clear strategic rationale and makes sense in view of the acquirer's existing equity, skill set, and capabilities. If those pieces are in place, we find that a well-defined and executed programmatic M&A strategy can help build resiliency and yield excess returns to shareholders over time.

Lululemon's acquisition of Mirror, for example, gave it a digital offering to supplement its core fitness-apparel business. It has also experimented with nutrition, mindfulness, and fitness offerings in stores through studios and community-based classes. These moves seem to align with the company's brand messaging. Meanwhile, other mindfulness and fitness apps have expanded into "sleepcasts" or moved into personalized health coaching and disease management to promote better health outcomes.

Winning in the wellness market

The global wellness market is healthy and growing. In every category we surveyed, more consumers said they were going to spend more on wellness than those who said they would spend less. The majority of consumers planning to increase their spending was especially large in some categories, including memory/brain enhancers, anti-aging products, beauty supplements, noninvasive cosmetic procedures, nutrition (sports nutrition, juice cleanses, nutrition coaches, fortified foods), and meditation/mindfulness offerings.

This market offers room for growth to all sorts of industry players: traditional "nutraceuticals" companies with experience in regulatory and licensing requirements; global entrants with extensive value chains, marketing capabilities, and deep channel relationships; regional consolidators with local knowledge and partnerships; and emerging brands with digital know-how, integrated consumer data, and an agile operating model.

At the same time, the wellness sector is getting more competitive, so companies should think critically about strategies to engage consumers and whether an ecosystem model might make sense. Companies will want to be purposeful about where to play and how to win with an effective delivery model-whether that model is end-to-end ownership, strategic partnerships, outsourcing and co-manufacturing, or marketplaces.

Wellness is here to stay as consumers across nations plan to increase their spending on personal health, appearance, fitness, and more. If the pandemic has taught us one thing, it's that physical and mental health will remain a priority for millions of people across the globe for a long time to come.

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Feeling good: The future of the $1.5 trillion wellness market

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Our new survey shows the future of the $1.5 trillion wellness market is bright as consumer interest and purchasing power rise across countries.

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Style preferences for comfort established during the pandemic are here to stay, evidenced by consumer spending behaviour and spring collections.

Consumers needed luxury brands to help them with anxiety reduction, sensory appeal, motivation and therapeutic value, Bain & Company reported last July.

Luxury is no longer about a price point; it's about relevance. What's most relevant to customers right now is an alignment of luxury and wellbeing, a pandemic-driven form of "comfort consumerism" that sees customers indulging in purchases in the pursuit of consolation. To evolve in a post-pandemic world, luxury retailers must first understand how style preferences are changing and, much like their direct-to-consumer counterparts, embrace consumer-centric strategies to adapt.

Global payments provider and shopping service Klarna is tracking these shifts for its retail partners, analysing product-level shopping habits and insights from its 90 million customers.

Klarna's app, with two million monthly users in the US and 12 million globally, provides key data on what consumers want to buy next, via its "wish list" feature. CEO Sebastian Siemiatkowski highlights Klarna's ability to collect rich data on fashion and luxury as a strength.

Starting anew

2020 saw many people reevaluating their lifestyles on a number of fronts, says Celenie Laura Fleur Seidel, senior womenswear editor at Farfetch. "Wellness and self-care have suddenly become more of a priority than ever."

Following the rise in popularity of activewear during the pandemic, New Year's resolutions and fitness and wellness-related goals could be an even stronger bet for retailers than in previous years. Klarna, whose network of 200,000 global retail partners include Farfetch, The North Face and Olivia Rubin, saw the trend towards wellness and comfort stay strong until the end of 2020, with Klarna's 2020 Holiday Retail Report finding that 79 per cent of its customers would rather feel healthy than wealthy.

For fashion designer Olivia Rubin, wellness is a trend that isn't going away. Following on from her brand's collaboration with Elemis, launched within the first wave of the pandemic, she will collaborate again with the bodycare brand in 2021, saying "it's important to help people feel happy and positive".

Klarna wish list data confirms the self-care continuum for brands and retailers. Leading up to the holidays, a $275 Versace quilted sleeping mask ranked higher in Klarna's most wished-for accessories list than designer watches. Sneakers held nine out of 10 spots on the footwear wish list, while activewear and designer athleisure pieces dominated wish-listed apparel. The desire for self-care and wellness related products was also evident within the beauty category, with skincare taking six out of the 10 spots on the Klarna top 10 beauty wish list.

Continuing comfort

Dr Rebecca Arnold, fashion historian and author, says trends that have historically risen during times of collective anxiety or unrest sometimes continue. This time, it's more likely they will mutate, she says. "We were already seeing mixes of athleisure and high-fashion pieces before the pandemic. It's possible that it will re-emerge as a stronger trend still."

Seidel believes that elements of the quarantine wardrobe will remain post-pandemic, meaning consumers won't be putting on heels and carrying heavy handbags just yet.

"Global lockdowns and the new work-from-home culture have seen undeniable change in the way that we are dressing," she says, referring to the increase in sales of loungewear, flat shoes and smaller bags for essentials. "With many businesses rethinking their company culture where in office versus at-home hours are concerned, it is likely that some of these changes in shopping habits will outlast the pandemic."

The Spring/Summer 2021 runways mirror these same consumer-centric needs. Bar jackets from Christian Dior, previously part of the post-WWII glamour trend, are now being restyled as part of comfortable outfits. Jonathan Anderson's "poetic armour" at Loewe in the shape of voluminous silhouettes and mask-like turtlenecks at Balenciaga also hone in on the consumer need for protection and emotional wellbeing.

The puffer jacket, the teaser item that promoted the 2021 collaboration between Gucci and The North Face, also taps into current consumer mindsets. Tina Rolén, EMEA marketing director at The North Face, says that outdoor sports is as much about mental health as physical.

Take the inside, out

The American Psychological Association is reporting on the long-term effects that the pandemic will have on social anxiety, especially for Gen Z. When consumers do leave their homes for good, brands and retailers have the opportunity to support this process.

"Comfort means different things at different times within fashion history. Now, we need more physical, tactile comfort from soft, warm clothes that cocoon us from the outside world," says Arnold.

Farfetch's noticeable spike in the sale of homeware reflects what Seidel believes is a consumer desire for "creating a comforting sanctuary". Clothing from Jacquemus - complete with motifs of table tops and ceramics - signals this same consumer desire echoing the emotional security of sheltering at home.

Inspire consumers to reconnect

When social distancing rules loosen, we can expect fashion to inspire consumers via travel and exploration.

Rolén says that consumers still want to see inspiring adventure content even if it is not accessible at the moment. "With the freedom reinstated post-pandemic, we think the love of the outdoors will continue to grow," she says, adding that The North Face aims to be part of this consumer journey. "In a difficult year where exploration has been limited, it has raised awareness of how nature can be restorative and aid wellbeing in so many ways. As an outdoor brand, we have the opportunity to share the incredible value in the physical and mental benefits of exploring the outdoors and loving wild places."

Champion integrated brand experiences

After Covid-19, brands that incorporate wellbeing into their ongoing communication and design strategies will reap the rewards.

The North Face is hoping that the benefits of outdoor sports be available to all, via its Reset Normal initiative. Vans launched its Checkerboard Day in October 2020, an annual fundraising day where the brand donates to mental health and wellbeing charities.

Traditional luxury brands and retailers are also taking note on how to connect products with experiences that help consumers feel better. During the pandemic, Gucci promoted its Orgasmique SS20 collection by sponsoring a series of the Sex Ed podcast, a show that focuses on sexual wellness. Meanwhile, Bottega Veneta creative director Daniel Lee has shown comfortable pants and homey knits for Resort 2021, and created The Bottega Residency, an online programme of events aimed to bring hope and prevent loneliness during quarantine.

Make it easy to return to joy

When the pandemic is behind us, Arnold, Seidel and Rubin all see a time when a countertrend of high glamour and tailoring will arrive amid a rebirth of dress-up.

However, according to McKinsey and Company, newness is important to only 19 per cent of fashion consumers mid-pandemic, meaning that consumers will, for now, still want formal looks mixed with the timeless ease of comfort and sports.

For Klarna customers, such items have recently included a Burberry Montage sweatshirt with the word "love" written on the chest and an Alexander McQueen or Balenciaga Triple S sneaker (both most desired in pink).

Provide omnichannel calm

Retailers and brands will also have to consider how shopping for new, post-pandemic styles could play out in stores. Anxiety around fitting rooms, for instance, is expected to last beyond lockdowns, according to a report published by the EY Future Consumer Index, which found that 80 per cent of UK consumers will feel uncomfortable about trying on clothes in-store even after the pandemic is over.

Brands will need to take this into consideration. Comfortable outfits and sneakers will remain a socially distanced retail solution for those wanting to celebrate what Seidel foresees will be a period of "joy and optimism".

This article was sponsored by Klarna.

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More on this topic:
How to reach the new luxury shopper: Aspirational nesters Creating an experience-first luxury growth engine Customers are spending on comfort as Covid-19 pandemic presses on

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Comfort and wellness set to define luxury in 2021

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Style preferences for comfort established during the pandemic are here to stay, evidenced by consumer spending behaviour and spring collections. Consumers needed luxury brands to help them with anxiety reduction, sensory appeal, motivation and therapeutic value, Bain & Company reported last July. Luxury is no longer about a price point; it's about relevance.

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Image credit: Marina Tatarenko / Shutterstock.com

"Wellness is the new black," the fashion industry has proclaimed! No longer merely a lifestyle choice, wellness is now a significantly influential trend in global fashion. Activewear sales are booming, and active sports apparel is one of the fastest-growing categories in fashion today.

No surprise then that many high street and luxe brands are adding activewear components to their offering. Tory Burch is one of the latest to do so, along with more high street and affordable brands such as H&M.

Whilst the new clothing lines are designed for activities such as yoga, they're also intended to be worn outside the gym. Traditional sportswear retailers such as Nike are choosing to collaborate with luxury designers with the aim of offering fashion-forward performance wear that can be worn anytime.

It's an approach that's been so successful that some of these collaborations have turned into permanent lines, such as Adidas with Stella McCartney.

It's not just fashion retailers that are moving into activewear. Gyms and other exercise providers are also starting to develop their own activewear lines. SoulCycle, the incredibly hip chain of spin studios, is just one fitness brand to do so.

Perhaps the key to this clothing is that it's extremely wearable. Although there's certainly an interest and awareness in the importance of maintaining an active lifestyle, activewear pieces tend to be highly comfortable and practical for daily wear.

The growing informality of workplaces means it's much more acceptable for people to wear casual clothing to the office. The new prevailing style is active, functional, but still fashionable.

The activewear and athleisure trends have influenced luxury fashion too, with brands such as Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton offering their own take on trainers. Brands such as Chloé and Hermès decided that designing their own clothing for exclusive winter sports such as skiing was the best way to produce luxury athleticwear.

Other brands have used the casual sportswear trend to influence their streetwear designs, creating highly informal clothing influenced by sportswear styles.
RELATED: What's Next for Athleisure
Established luxury brands are wise to hop on the trend because there are new market entrants to contend with in this arena. Launched just 2 years ago, new market entrant Maia Active has been offering athletic clothing to Chinese women designed specifically for the local climate and with their body type in mind.

So far the brand has grown quickly in China's market. Other newcomers include fashion-conscious Koral, ballet-inspired StudiøGrand, or Lou & Grey Form, which focuses on offering super-soft fabrics.

Wellness Asia

Wellness isn't just an influential trend in the West. Consumers in China are also taking an increasing interest in lifestyle and health. Although food safety and environmental health remain key areas of concern, there's a developing interest in exercise and health.

According to a 2017 report by the Hurun Report and the Shenzhen Catic Wellness Group, Chinese families were spending up to a quarter of their income on healthcare and fitness, including things such as gym memberships and products from athletic equipment to functional clothing.

Time was, middle-class families in China insisted on their kids learning piano. Now, wealthier individuals are encouraging their children into high-end sports such as rowing and horse riding in the hope of giving them a social advantage.

Interest is shifting away from luxury towards more practical fashion. Wearing athleisure has become a sign of social advantage and sophistication.

It's a trend being encouraged by brands such as Lululemon, a Canadian athleisure brand with a heavy emphasis on yoga. Store placement (always a significant strategic concern in China's market) is key to this trend - expensive gyms and top-end athleisure brands such as Lululemon are opening in the more exclusive shopping areas and malls.

Meanwhile, China's top-end department store, Lane Crawford, is adding athleisure and sportswear brands to its roster. The store brand is actively courting Chinese apparel brands, encouraging young designers, as well as adding established Western ones such as Adidas and Stella McCartney to its lineup.

Social media and what celebrities are doing, wearing, and talking about, are every bit as influential in China as they are in the West. It's certainly helping to drive an interest in wellness as a lifestyle.

Consumer analysts seem to believe this interest is generally sincere. Although Chinese citizens have been conspicuous consumers of high-end brands in the past, interested in an item's status value rather than practicalities, contemporary Chinese consumers are taking a genuine interest in personal improvement and wellness.

That seems to be particularly true of younger consumers in China. Lane Crawford believes that this trend is being driven by social media and exposure to the health and wellness trend from international brands and celebrities.

As a result, the store's actively expanding its offering for brands that mix fashion with fitness to reflect a growing interest in the wellness lifestyle.

As trends go, wellness seems to be both profound and lasting. The most significant aspect of this trend is perhaps its reach: it's influencing markets right around the world, it's making its impact felt from low to high fashion and it seems to be here to stay.

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How the Wellness Phenomenon is Influencing Fashion Globally

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Image credit: Marina Tatarenko / Shutterstock.com No surprise then that many high street and luxe brands are adding activewear components to their offering. Tory Burch is one of the latest to do so, along with more high street and affordable brands such as H&M.

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Fashion’s digital transformation: Now or never

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Some companies won’t survive the current crisis; others will emerge better positioned for the future. Much will depend on fashion’s digital transformation.

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By Beth McGroarty
A new era of sustainable, ethical, intelligent, healing, more inclusive and meaningful clothing is on the rise

The moment we're born, clothing gets slapped on us. And for most of us, that founding moment foretells a nearly lifelong, complex relationship (even obsession) with what we wear. It's understandable: No other objects touch our bodies every single day, and our clothes are a powerful nonverbal projection of "who we are." So, our relationship with fashion gets imbued with tons of emotion (from joy to misery): Clothes can make me new, better, sexier and more sophisticated or make me look ugly or off trend. This magical thinking drives us to overbuy, stuffing our closets with purchases we thought would transform us but typically gather dust and regrets or get tossed.

This problem of fashion overconsumption has, of course, been radically worsened by the rise of "fast fashion" over the last couple of decades: the manic overproduction of ever-cheaper clothes and ever-changing trends that encourages people to buy, buy, buy-and has made clothing a profoundly disposable concept. Fast fashion, driven by globalization (cheap labor and resource markets, which means clothing gets designed in one country, made in another, and sold in yet another), has led to production doubling in the last 15 years. Eighty billion pieces of clothes are now produced worldwide each year!

It's impossible to overstate the disastrous impact this greedy, throwaway fashion machine has on the environment and humans: the waste...the pollution...the garment workers (mostly women) paid 40-60 cents/hour in places such as Bangladesh or Vietnam. Every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned. Three in five garments bought end up in a landfill/burned within a year. Less than 1 percent of clothing material is ever recycled. This "take-make-dispose" model creates a staggering 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gas emissions annually and dumps 20 percent of all global wastewater, and if nothing changes, the fashion industry will use up more than 25 percent of the world's entire carbon budget by 2050.

Given these realities, it's odd how little attention the world has paid to the complex intersection between "wellness" and "fashion," beyond the familiar story of athleisure disrupting the market. Or how few people that are wellness- and eco-minded-who drive around in a Prius, eat all-organic, and have a mini-stroke if someone serves their fresh-pressed juice with a plastic straw-have really grappled with their relationship to and consumption of clothes, learned about their source and true environmental impact, or pondered the many negative ways that fashion impacts their wellbeing-or imagined the positive ways that it could.

Because the world desperately needs a more "well fashion" and because there are so many powerful new directions in fashion that are healthier-for-the-planet-and-people, it was a hot topic at the 2018 Global Wellness Summit. It spanned iconic Italian fashion designer Alberta Ferretti keynoting on what wellness in fashion meant to her and the first "wellness fashion show": a creative collaboration between BuDhaGirl, a fashion brand focusing on mindful glamour; Louie Schwartzberg's extraordinary biophilic cinematic art; and La Forma, an athleisure maker with sustainable values at its core.

But it was BuDhaGirl founder and CEO Jessica Jesse's talk, "The Concept of Wellness in Fashion," that provides the inspiration and framework for this trend: how the market and mindset around fashion will move from unhealthy to more "well"-better for the planet, for the people that make clothes, and for us, the people that wear them. The trend parallels in many ways how the beauty industry is currently being remade by wellness concepts.

Jesse explained how the "entire conversation around fashion needs to radically change because every point in the process-how we design, make, acquire, care for, experience and dispose of our clothing-is broken."

And if fashion is a market where concepts of wellbeing for the planet and people have been strikingly late in coming, now so many innovations are underway. Fashion is currently being disrupted in all directions, such as the decimation of the concept of work versus casual dressing. The athleisure story-how the functionality and aesthetic of fitness wear has taken hold of the market-has been told and retold. But there's far more wellness ahead in fashion's future-and this is what it looks like...

FUELING THE TREND

Climate change crisis goes from far-off worry to in our faces

If the environmental destruction of our planet used to seem a next-generation problem, a series of new scientific reports agree that the devastating consequences of climate change (air pollution, food shortages, wildfires, coastal flooding, droughts, population displacement, etc.) may hit the crisis point in a very few years. A new UN report found that we've got just 12 years to keep global warming to a maximum of 1.5°C, and if it surpasses that, the likelihood of extreme climate conditions jumps dramatically. A new Global Carbon Project report shows that, instead of decreasing, carbon emissions actually rose 2.7 percent in 2018, likening the crisis to a "speeding freight train."

People are finally hearing and feeling this unfolding nightmare, and more research shows the horrible role that the $2.4 trillion fashion industry plays in our Earth's destruction. The stats could fill a book. The fashion industry spews 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gas emissions a year, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Washing our clothes releases half a million tons of microfibers into the ocean every year, equal to 50 billion+ plastic bottles. Textile dyeing is the second-largest water polluter in the world, and it takes 2,000 gallons of water just to make a typical pair of jeans!

A western problem

Westerners like to blame developing economies, such as China and India, for their new hyper-consumption ramping up the climate crisis. But research shows people in emerging Eastern countries are more sustainability-focused than Americans and Europeans: They purchase a fraction of the clothes and are more likely to buy local fashion. For instance, only a third of shoppers in developed countries seek sustainable fashion, compared with 78 percent of Indians and 65 percent of Chinese. The mall-rat American reality: Clothing consumption has doubled to 14 million tons a year in under two decades, and 35 billion pounds of clothes will get thrown away in 2019.[1] The average American buys a jaw-dropping 86 items of clothing a year, 80 percent of which they seldom wear, with each of us sending 70 pounds annually straight to dumpsters. UK shoppers send 300,000 tons of clothes to landfills every year and keep $46.7 billion worth of unworn clothes in their closets.

Mind-set shift: From conspicuous consumption to conspicuous conscious consumerism

Future forecasting firm LS:N Global, whose researchers Jessica Smith and Rhiannon McGregor keynoted at the GWS, has neatly summarized the major trend that is rewriting consumer behavior: We're "moving from an age of conspicuous consumption to an age of conspicuous conshumanism," where people display their humane, rather than monetary, worth through choices they make as consumers. With a new anxiety around wealth, spending is migrating to goods that tell a story about how they help people or the environment. You might say, after years of talk, something real is happening-and a mountain of surveys and stats confirm that the shift to sustainable, ethical brands and a new interest in "well fashion" is underway. A 2018 JWT Intelligence survey found that 90+ percent of global consumers are trying to live more sustainably and think that brands that pollute the environment should be fined. A recent Ipsos MORI/Fashion Revolution poll of Europeans found that consumers now demand to know more about the environmental/social impact of the clothes, shoes and accessories they buy, with 75+ percent reporting that fashion brands should be required by law to be ethical and sustainable.

The clearest window into trends is social media, where billions of people post and search, and global fashion search platform Lyst reported a 47 percent growth in sustainability-focused fashion keywords in 2018 (such as "vegan leather" or "organic cotton"). "Sustainable fashion" made Pinterest's top social trends for 2019. And a vocal tribe of celebrities and social media influencers are making a bigger "well fashion" impact than public service announcements ever could. Perhaps no one more than Meghan Markle, who loudly and proudly wears sustainable/ethical fashion brands. When she donned a pair of Outland Denim jeans, their web traffic skyrocketed 3,000 percent-and her choice meant that the company could employ 30 more seamstresses rescued from human trafficking/sexual exploitation in its Cambodian production house.

Governments & industry organizations forge new targets & laws

It would be naïve to expect people to suddenly stop shopping or for eco-activist fashion brands (which can remain more niche) to make the massive dent needed. But with the unthinkable economic and human cost of climate change looming, and fashion's terrible role in it better understood, more large public organizations and governments are taking action to move the fashion industry from its linear, take-make-waste model to a sustainable circular economy.

A big move: On December 10, a Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action was launched by the UN, and 40 big brands and suppliers-such as Stella McCartney, Burberry, Adidas and H&M-pledged to collectively take action on the environmental/social impact of the fashion industry and cooperate with the charter's 16 targets, including net zero emissions by 2050, the use of sustainable materials, and low-carbon transport. Brand participation is voluntary, but the UN Charter ratchets up the pressure globally. France is a standout nation for legal action, where fashion makers must take responsibility for the end of the life of the clothing they make (through collecting and recycling programs), and the country is considering legislation to limit the volume of various fibers that makers can place on their market. Let's just say that the US is doing nothing of the kind, and more regulatory action is needed worldwide and-we predict-is ahead.

A Profusion of "Well" Fashion Brands

There are hundreds (and hundreds) of sustainable, ethical and wellness-focused fashion brands across the world: hundreds of indie brands along with globally recognized pioneers, such as Stella McCartney, Eileen Fisher and Patagonia, all reaching for evermore sustainable and ethical practices. (Just visit Patagonia's website and digest all they're doing as a company and environmental activist, all while humbly admitting that they are still, as an apparel maker, "part of the problem.") Fast fashion companies such as H&M are making important moves, with their new goal of selling strictly sustainable products by 2030. The sheer volume of clothes that the fast fashion kings sell (hundreds of millions of items each year) means any positive changes they make have a vast impact.

For every company covered in this report, dozens were left out. Here are just a very few making interesting moves we researched: A.BCH.collections, Allbirds, Amour Vert, Antibad, Apolis, Arc'teryx, Christopher Raeburn, Community Clothing, Courbet, Filippa K, Finisterre, Gabriela Hearst, Gather&See, Hugo Boss, Kering, Klow, Kotn, Maggie Marilyn, Maison Makarem, Mother of Pearl, Natascha Mehrabi, Noah, Olderbrother, Organic by John Patrick, Outerknown, Pangaia, Peoples Product, People Tree, PrAna, Rami Helali, REI, Rêve en Vert, Rothy's, Satta, Sofia Metsoviti, Ted Baker, Toms, Veja and Zero + Maria Cornejo.)

This trend follows the logic of tracking the garment across its lifecycle (a kind of "tale of the traveling pants") to identify some key innovations in how clothing will get designed, made, bought, worn, experienced, washed and reused in the future.

Aspects of the Trend

The Future? On-Demand, Bespoke Clothes, Accessories & Jewelry

A new era of AI and 3D design technologies means brands could break the spray-and-pray model of overproducing cookie-cutter clothes and start delivering much smarter, on-demand, made-to-order clothes. As Sue Siegel, chief innovation officer at GE put it, "(With the combination) of AI, materials, design, and 3-D technology...you get a massively bespoke approach to designing jewelry, clothing and shoes. You'll soon see it come much more into our lives and pervade everything we do."[2] This digital-only and machine-learning-powered fashion design is far more sustainable: It reduces production volume because items are only produced when necessary, and, because they are custom-designed to actually fit (with preferred colors and features), they will actually get worn. Bespoke clothes may once have been the exclusive province of Wall Street banker types, but, in the future, the designed-for-me concept will get more democratic.

Change of Paradigm is developing virtual and holographic reality apps that let people experience clothing before they buy: They use digital textiles to ensure fit, and, at the click of your mouse, you can change patterns, prints and features. Sustainable fashion brands, such as Atacac, are now using the software. CLO has developed 3D virtual prototyping programs so fashion designers can create without ever sewing or cutting a physical pattern: Everything's done online. Companies, such as Denmark's Solve, are rolling out downloadable fashion: If you have access to a laser cutter (found in more places now), you can download their handbag patterns, laser-cut the recycled fabrics, and, for a few bucks and 20-minute assembly time, you have a cool, sustainable new bag. ZOZO, the brainchild of Japan's leading e-commerce site, is a concept that makes your clothes fit precisely. They send you a free ZOZOSUIT interwoven with 300 sensors that capture in 3D your exact measurements, and, with their smartphone app (which lets you model your selections in 3D before ordering), you then order bespoke, tailored-to-your-body clothes. Think basics like sweaters, shirts, tees and jeans in natural fibers, at democratic, under-$100 prices. (ZOZO is now available in 72 countries/territories.) Our future is more on-demand, digitally designed and custom-created-for-you fashion.

Sustainable Materials-Clothes Made of Algae, Mushrooms & Crop Waste

So many materials we've been making clothes out of are Earth killers. Man-made fabrics, such as nylon, polyester and acrylic, are petroleum-based, meaning they can take centuries to decompose-and they release tsunamis of plastic microfibers into oceans and lakes. Toxic bleach, dyes and thousands of other chemicals used in clothing manufacturing pollute our air and water. Clothes packed with chemicals and dyes can hurt our bodies: A rash is one thing, but chemicals, such as dimethylformamide, found in some workout clothes have been linked to liver damage, while wrinkle-free clothes can get coated with formaldehyde, a carcinogen.

The future is natural fibers that are sustainably sourced, such as silk, linen, organic cotton, wool, flax, hemp and alpaca, and semisynthetic and cellulosic fibers, such as modal, rayon, Tencel, lyocell and cupro, that involve "man-making" but break down easier. But there's so much radical innovation in sustainable materials happening. A small army of companies is crafting clothing from zero-waste, hyper-renewable algae. Israeli-based Algalife turns algae into fibers and dyes, and the fabrics are also designed to improve and protect skin, as proteins, vitamins and anti-inflammatories are naturally released by algae-immersed fabric. AlgiKnit crafts yarns from algae for use in clothes and shoes. Vivobarefoot created the Ultra III Bloom running shoes made from algae, sourced from destructive algal blooms in waterways that release toxic chemicals. Each Vivo pair prevents 40 balloons of CO2 from being released into the atmosphere. There's fungi fashion, such as MycoTEX, who, with Utrecht University, is pioneering custom-made clothes fashioned from decomposable mushroom roots. Another pack of pioneers, such as Agraloop, is making textiles out of food crop leftovers, creating biofibers from things, such as banana and pineapple, whose fabrics are slated for collaborations with heavy-hitter fashion brands. Reebok's new Cotton +Corn trainers fashion their soles from a long-wearing corn derivative.

"Trashy" Clothes

Call it "trashion," or waste-makes-taste, recycling all kinds of garbage into trendy new clothing, accessories and shoes is everywhere. Patagonia is a pioneer and has been making fleece jackets using polyester made out of recycled bottles for 25 years (with a collection heavily made up of recycled nylon, cotton, polyester, down, cashmere and wool).

Plastic water bottles are an environmental scourge, with a million a minute sold worldwide, and recycled plastic fashion is now surging. Start-up Aday uses recycled plastic to make its futuristic clothes (one jacket is made from 41 reconstituted water bottles). Everlane is launching a line called ReNew made entirely from millions of recycled water bottles; Chilean brand Novedades creates luxury fashion from plastic bags; Rothy shoes are made from 100 percent-recycled bottles; and Spain's Ecoalf creates clothes and shoes from algae and recycled plastic as part of its Upcycling the Oceans collection.

Other trash-trawling fashion includes transforming ocean waste (whether plastics or discarded fishing nets) into regenerative materials: brands, such as Adidas, Stella McCartney, Riley Studio, and Gucci, are partnering with activists, such as Parley for the Oceans, who sources materials from companies, such as Aquafil, that turn ocean garbage into amazing materials, such as Econyl. Indosole turns discarded tires in Indonesia into a whole shoe line, and Amsterdam's Gumdrop, who says 3.3 million pounds of gum end up on that city's streets every year, "chews" that discarded gum into a new kind of rubber for shoes with fashion brand Explicit.

Know, Honor and Treat Fairly, Thy Maker

The fashion industry employs an estimated 300 million people, and, while most of us know that most of these workers get paid very little for working awful hours in unsafe environments, we don't really grasp the extent and landscape of this modern slavery. Globalization means brands manufacture where wages are most shockingly low (Bangladesh, Vietnam, India, Cambodia and Mexico), and the industry war for rock-bottom prices means a supply chain where fashion brands often don't even own their factories or visit them. The upshot? Many clothes in your drawers are made by some of the world's most vulnerable and exploited people, often forced into labor and not paid at all.

Nonprofit KnowTheChain offers a report and system, scoring the world's megabrands on how they're treating workers. In a nutshell, abominable: Out of a 100, the average score was 37! Adidas and Lululemon scored highest, and, surprisingly, fast fashion companies fared well, while many luxury brands, such as Prada or Ferragamo, performed horribly. Access this important report here.

More people are demanding ethical fashion, and the future is more action by brands on (and transparency into whether they're delivering) fair compensation, human rights and healthy workplaces. So many fashion companies are now going beyond "ok" to dramatically empower the economic lives of local makers and artisans.

Fashion4Freedom is smashing the old exploit-the-worker factory production model by giving artisans of traditional Vietnamese crafts their own equipment and then connecting those creators to sustainable brands-so they become the entrepreneurs. Malaysia's Earth Heir makes entrepreneurs out of Malaysian craftsmen/women, working as an intermediary that creates fair access to markets. The ethical e-commerce fashion site Nisolo, founded in response to the tragedy at the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh that killed 1,134 workers, eliminates the money-pocketing brand middleman by bringing the clothes and shoes made by extraordinary artisans (the craftspeople luxury brands turn to) directly to the consumer. Egypt's Okhtein (a bag maker worn by Beyoncé) works with Egyptian NGOs to empower women artisans that face economic hardship.

Transparency into Creators: If manufacturing is a faceless business, now more brands are providing transparency into the supply chain and their makers-and even celebrating by name the people who make your clothes and shoes. Everlane's "Radical Transparency" program ensures that its factories embrace fair labor laws: It ranks them on their compliance with those laws and honestly shows shoppers how much it costs to make each and every product. Known Supply Apparel provides info on the artisan from an underserved community who stitched your garment; each piece is hand-signed, and you can even send the maker a thank-you note. With each leather good you buy, Italy's Arno Cooperative sends a photo of the craftsperson that fashioned it, a map of all the places in Tuscany where it is made, and Arno's website has info on each artisan's family and life. And you can send a thank-you note right back to the maker. Fairness in fashion, for people with actual faces, is one humane future trend.

Cruelty-free & Vegan Clothing

Vegan is the hot trend in eating, and it is also in fashion, as more people now care about the ethical treatment of animals. If the luxury fashion world has always been heavy on fur, leather and rare skins, things are being seriously shaken up, with more brands nixing animal materials from their lines and unleashing a wave of alt-fur, alt-leather, alt-everything that is actually trendier than the real thing.New technologies are able to create fake fur and leather that looks amazing, with the latter market forecast to hit $85 billion by 2025.[3]

Stella McCartney has been the hands-down trailblazer here, with a brand centered on cruelty-free fashion, and Calvin Klein is an activist, too. So many brands have recently bid farewell to fur: Burberry, Versace, Furla, Michael Kors, Gucci, Tommy Hilfiger, Maison Margiela, Fendi, Armani, Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren-along with online shopping sites, such as Net-A-Porter and YOOX, and entire cities, such as San Francisco. Many of the hippest, fastest-growing brands are all about wearing your vegan cred, such as Paris-based Veja, with its vegan shoes/sneakers collection worn by Meghan Markle, or Budapest-based Nanushka, with its rave-gathering vegan haute clothing line or uber-cool vegan footwear brand Yatay.

Smart Clothes That Boost Your Health & Wellbeing

Clothes are pressed against our bodies all day, but aside from keep-me-warm or cover-me-up functionality, they've been rather "dumb." No longer; a revolution in smart materials is doing what makes nothing but sense: clothing that optimizes your wellbeing while you wear it. A dizzying array of new technologies-from Internet-of-Things hardware/software to body-mapping technologies-mean futuristic fashion can embed numerous wellness benefits, such as clothes that adapt to all kinds of environmental and bodily changes (heat, cold, air flow, UV rays, etc.). But the trend spans much more than environmental response clothing. An era of "active well clothing" that is connected, intelligent and healing is rising: from anti-bacterial clothes that clean themselves to clothes that can heal or moisturize your body to clothes that express your mood.

Some of these high-tech concepts give new meaning to the idea of "comfortable clothes." A collaboration between Zaha Hadid Design and Swiss tech-sports brand Odlo offers base layer leggings and tops that deploy seamless knit technology and organic body mapping to control the flow of air around the body and adapt to your breathing and movement, like a second skin. Ministry of Supply, brainchild of MIT-schooled engineers, has a mission of using tech to make clothes smarter and more comfortable, and their new, wirelessly-charged smart jacket automatically adjusts the temp based on the weather, your body temp, and how much you are moving-and is activated by a phone app or smart assistant, such as Alexa. Clothing brand Become uses techwear fabrics to help menopausal women manage hot flashes and night sweats.

There are clothes that help our bodies heal and sleep better. Under Armour's Athlete Recovery Sleepwear (created with quarterback Tom Brady) enmeshes bioceramic technology into pajamas that absorb infrared wavelengths emitted by the body to reflect them back as far infrared energy, to help the body recover faster and sleep better. Start-up Lumiton has just created a sunlight-activated Wear Healthy line powered by laser technology that is designed to deliver multiple wellness benefits: The UV-protecting fabrics are infused with laser dyes that get energized with sunlight to produce red and near-infrared light, whose wavelengths, they argue, increase collagen and muscle growth and reduce pain/inflammation. For intense sports, Aexos has created garments that use biomapping and new materials that protect during impact to reduce whiplash and concussion (Hello, football world). For instance, its Halo shirt has a high collar that remains soft and flexible normally but stiffens and protects on impact. Think how an adaption of this tech could help bone-fragile elderly people (all those broken hips), providing stiffening, protecting clothing for hard falls.

If the world is mad for collagen as an ingestible beauty supplement, now wearable collagen is a thing. Tech sportswear brand Buki has released a chemical-free Collagen Collection, which embeds collagen into fabrics to provide all-day moisturizing, and the effect never wears out because the fabric is made of the protein. And new fabrics are being crafted interweaving other proteins, like milk.

Beyond the futuristic, another trend is weaving " ancient wellness" healing and herbal properties into fabrics and clothing collections. Eco-chic Australian label Kitx uses Ayurvedic recipes to dye their collection and to infuse them with antibacterial properties; menswear line Emily Bode creates aromatic textiles suffused with Indian medicinal plants (such as turmeric, neem and basil). And if we had Earth Shoes in the 70s, trendy footwear designer Astara has essentially created earthing shoes, using crystals, such as black onyx and blue apatite, so that the shoes resonate at the same vibration as Earth's magnetic field (7.83 hertz), and you feel like you're walking barefoot on grass or sand.[4]

Another trend: high-tech clothes that allow you to express yourself-or what you might call mood clothing. University of Central Florida scientists have created a color-adaptive material (ChroMorphous) that lets wearers control the color and pattern of their clothes using an app; India-based Broadcast Wearables has created a programmable t-shirt called Sygnal that allows people to change designs and slogans with a tap on the logo.

Wearables become...Naturally Wearable, Migrating to Clothes

Biomeasuring wearables are fast moving into pretty jewelry, just as they're expanding from tracking fitness/performance to measuring things, such as stress and mood. And smart, wellness-tracking tech is now moving into clothes-smart because they're already on us anyway. Ralph Lauren's PoloTech shirt monitors heart rate, stress and energy output; SUPA makes smart, heart-rate monitoring bras; Wearable X even makes connected yoga pants that vibrate to guide users through yoga postures and sequences.

Fast Company recently reported on what looks to be a crucial breakthrough for the smart clothing space, whose adoption has been held back by the need for these clothes to have a heavy battery (how do you clean it?). Engineers at the University of Massachusetts, Amherst, have discovered a way to store and generate energy in fabrics without big power cells. It's complex science (vapor-coated conductive threads, a flexible mesh of electrodes), but it allows fabrics to easily power things, such as temperature sensors, motion trackers and haptic feedback devices. And the creators argue that this method can be "scaled up and remain cost-effective" for mass production. This is the kind of breakthrough that would indeed usher in a much-needed next gen of smart clothing.

Digital Fashion: Clothing You Only Wear Online/at Social Media

LS:N Global's 2019 trends report spotlighted a new direction in fashion that may have people over 50 scratching their heads but has a fascinating future: all-digital fashion designed to be exclusively strutted online and at social media sites. It speaks to younger generations where styling oneself on Instagram is as important (more?) than getting decked out in "real life"-and what could be eco-friendlier, with no material production or transport needed? As LS:N points out, "Avatars are the new fashion models, and younger consumers are already collectively spending millions on virtual outfits for their Fortnite characters." It's fashion for the selfie generation that needs no "shelfie." And if the hysterical consumption of real, resource-devouring clothes has been spurred on by show-off social media culture, this is some digital, eco-conscious payback.

Tech innovation means digital fashion brands can create hyper-realistic and more boundary-pushing clothes. A couple of the new players: Norway-based all-digital retailer Carlings' Neo-Ex collection costs up to $20, and your new clothes get digitally "fit" onto your photo by their digital 3D designers. (The company's mission is to raise awareness of the environmental cost of the throwaway culture associated with fashion influencers.) London's 3D designer Catherine Taylor creates super-realistic virtual clothing that, when animated, has the movement and physical properties of real fabrics.

An Avalanche of Platforms for Recycling, Reselling & Renting Fashion

We live in a make-buy-trash fashion culture: Eighty-three percent of our clothes/shoes get chucked in the garbage. And in 2018, there were reports about fashion's nasty secret: Brands incinerate/shred unsold stock to protect their halo of exclusivity. For instance, Burberry acknowledged it destroyed $36 million worth of unsold clothes/accessories in 2017!

Thankfully, there is now an incredible surge in new platforms that upcycle all those dead dresses. And a reuse and re-wear revolution is really disrupting the "buy new" fashion world, whether it's recycling old fabric into new clothes or brands stepping up buyback programs (and rewarding you for that closet clean-out to the big uptick in luxury, used online clothing sites to vintage staging a comeback or the fact that you can now rent your wardrobe. It's a much more virtuous circular economy, giving many potential lives to each item of clothing.

Refashioning Old Fabric into New Clothes
So many brands are upcycling cast-off material into new creations. Eileen Fisher's powerful recycling program called Renew has taken back over a million garments to repurpose, and the old-made-new garments are sold in its stores or pop-up shops where that $300 jacket gets reincarnated at less than $100. Reformation is a cult brand that remakes old materials and vintage clothing into feminine creations. Dead stock becomes live stock with brands such as Cambodia's tonlé, which uses surplus fabric from mass clothing makers and turns it into zero-waste collections, or Queen of Raw, which connects designers and textile firms with dead stock fabrics from factories/brands. Subscription-based brands let people return worn clothes for new ones: For Days lets you send back worn t-shirts for new ones, with the collected tops getting recycled into new tees. Because high-end hotels need to constantly give guests fresh sheets (and the endless laundering means they wear out fast), in 2018, wellness hotel brand Westin began a new program recycling the tens of thousands of pounds of sheets/towels from its global hotels into pajamas for children in homeless shelters-even developing a proprietary way to break down the old fibers to make new fabric.

Good Behavior Rewards
So many brands will now reward you for bringing back your unwanted clothes for recycling. Guess just partnered with I:Collect (which gathers/recycles used fashion), so if you bring in five clothing items you get 15 percent off-and H&M has a similar deal. J.Crew partnered with Blue Jeans Go Green, which recycles old denim to build housing for communities in need: Bring back a gently used pair to J.Crew and get a $20 discount on new ones. Sweden-based Nudie Jeans gives a discount if you return your old jeans, and they provide free repairs for life. UK department store John Lewis's buyback plan: Gather at least £50 worth of clothing, a courier fetches your items, and you get sent a gift card matching their value. Online, sustainable used clothing emporium thredUP has just launched the thredUP x Reformation UPcycle kit: They send you the kit, you fill it with unwanted clothing from any brand, and send it back. For clothing that passes their resale test, you get money or a Reformation credit (and they'll responsibly recycle those clothes that don't make the cut).

The New Crop of Online Resale Shops-Luxe for Less
An ever-growing number of online resale shops (where you can both sell and buy) has led to an avid new generation of people hunting down luxury fashion at dramatically cheaper prices, and a perception shake-up around the concepts of value and luxury. The resold clothes/accessories market is forecast to more than double by 2022 (from $20 billion to $41 billion), and pre-owned fashion will make up around one-third of the average woman's closet by 2027. This no longer just the province of deal-seekers and millennials: Thirteen percent of this sector is driven by millionaires.

There are so many great sites where you can buy high-end for less: eBay, of course, and RealReal, Poshmark, Vestiaire Collective, Vinted and thredUP. These platforms are innovating: for instance, thredUP has a new collection concept, Remade, where they take mountains of data to identify exactly what resells to create an affordable collection designed to be resold. Each item comes with a buyback promise, ensuring it will be resold on thredUP, with sellers earning 40 percent of the original value. UK-based The Resolution Store is an online, ever-refreshed site where the piles of amazing (wasted) clothes that get gifted to fashion influencers get resold. Even traditional thrift stores, such as Goodwill, are upping their game, as they recently opened "Curated by Goodwill NYNJ, with a new aesthetic and color-coded racks of clothes.

Vintage Is Hot
Thrifting for vintage finds, once the province of bohemians and punk rockers, is, according to Women's Wear Daily, undergoing a major renaissance, with rare and glamorous vintage clothes now being vocally worn by celebs, sold in the toniest shops, and paraded across social media. If the Instagrams prod us to be fashion clones, vintage fashion is emerging as a deeply eco-friendly way to be truly unique. The Japanese, the largest second-hand clothing market on earth, are so mad for premium vintage that they're depleting the world's stock. One example of a brand bringing new-look vintage to the people: Peekaboo Vintage, whose owner Emily Bothwell lends her private collection of vintage rarities to celebs and offers a big vintage collection at Topshop and ASOS Marketplace, all while broadcasting her eco-mission: #Ilovepreloved.

The Rented Wardrobe: Luxe Fashion for the Experience Economy
Platforms that let you rent your wardrobe are rising, which deliver the endorphin rush and variety of fast fashion (you get to dress like celebs dress, rotating in new designer clothes every week), without having all those environment-killing fashion mistakes rotting in your closet. Let's face it. The fashion industry has sold us a bill of goods when they argue that clothes are "investments." While some are longer-wearing choices than others, they simply aren't: fashions and our body shape change all the time, we outgrow our shoes as we age, clothes fall apart, we gain a few pounds, and, after years, we sometimes just don't want to wear that blouse, even if we can't quite say why.

The goliath in the rent-your-wardrobe space is Rent the Runway, which began as a site where you could rent that special-occasion gown but has expanded to a monthly unlimited membership service (9 million people pay the $159/mo.) giving constant access to their vast "closet in the cloud": all the designer clothes/accessories you need for work, fancy events, pregnancies, etc. The process: Members can keep four items at a time (out of their 800,000 units from 500 designers) and rotate them in and out as fast as they want. Every item is delivered in two sizes (smart) and is returned with a prepaid shipping label to the company's vast warehouse, dry-cleaned, and shipped out to the next wearer. And the company has partnered with WeWork, installing drop-off boxes at the co-working spaces and allowing WeWork members to rent their wardrobe via tablet, with plans to have clothing rental pop-ups in select WeWork locations. Rent the Runway reports their passionate members use the service 120 times a year (that means new items every three days!), which the New Yorker has noted is "an extraordinary number of wardrobe refreshes for anyone other than an heiress or a royal," while also analyzing how the digital rental concept is a democratizing shift in fashion. Why wear that grubby, in-heavy-rotation, little black dress when you can wear something different, such as a soft yellow, silk Escada shift, every week?

Other rent-your-clothes pioneers: Girl Meets Dress and China's YCloset, along with Dutch brand, Mud Jeans, which leases organic denim that can be either kept, swapped or returned. The Black Tux, focused on renting formalwear to American men, is considering a monthly subscription model, as it finds men are renting for more than special occasions, such as job interviews, dates, etc.

Yes, the idea of renting versus owning what you wear requires a whole new mindset. However, it's all part of the new experience economy, and you get to experience (and afford) far more clothes than you could ever buy. And the rent-not-own fashion model liberates us from the time and energy eaten up by shopping while freeing up space in our closets.

Washing & Caring for Clothes Needs a New Cycle

The way we wash our clothes is arguably the most environmentally destructive stage in the whole fashion cycle. Because of our supercharged washing machines, our clothes shed half a million tons of microfibers into waterways every year, equal to 50 million plastic bottles. These microfibers end up in the food chain (so, we may be eating our athleisure!) and are associated with various health risks. We need more basics: from appliance-makers pioneering minimal water use during washing to our need to embrace organic detergents.

Clothes cleaning start-ups are getting creative. Slovenia-based Planet Care has created a cartridge filter to capture the destructive fibers shed during washing and drying, for use by appliance makers or direct-to-consumer. In the future, more clothes will actually clean themselves (so they last longer and longer between cleanings). Australia's RMIT University has created textiles that are infused with nanostructures that can degrade organic matter (dirt and grime) when exposed to any kind of light. Denmark's Organic Basics has created organic cotton fabrics (think: underwear) woven with ultrafine silver threads (called SilverTech) that have antibacterial and antimicrobial properties (as well as being odor-controlling).

Apps Make the Right Choice Easier

People want to be sustainable and ethical in their fashion purchases, but, in a sea of brands, it feels impossible. Well, of course, now there's an app (or tool) for that. Just a few:

Good on You: Launched in Australia, starting in 2018, it's available globally on iOS and Android. With data on 2,000 brands, you can just type in the brand or a type of clothing and instantly see an out-of-five rating along with a summary of how ethical and sustainable the company is. Their algorithm crunches a huge amount of data from certification platforms, such as Fair Trade, Carbon Trust, the Global Organic Textile Standard and Greenpeace Detox, to rank brands in different areas, such as how they treat workers, the planet or animals. The app also makes suggestions to help you discover new "well" fashion brands if your brand comes up "avoid" or "not good enough."

Done Good: It filters fashion brands to help you identify which ones align with your values. It also offers a Chrome extension, so if you're shopping online and Google something like "linen dress," a sidebar pops up with suggestions for ethical brands that offer that item (plus discounts).

Project Just: Breaks down brands' ethical and sustainability practices, and, on the "Project Just Wiki," you can find individual brand reports and summaries that nutshell that label's pros and cons.

The Smart Closet

Most of us have piles of clothes, shoes and accessories, but they get lost in our closets and drawers. Our wardrobe is not optimized. To remedy this, start-ups are using machine learning/AI and data crunching to help people build smart virtual closets-basically giving you your own digital stylist or "wardrobe wellness" coach. The free (in beta testing) app Save Your Wardrobe builds your wardrobe in two ways. For items you own, you photograph your clothes, and its computer vision technology smartly categorizes each item, even identifying the brand. Users can also let the app automatically read their digital receipts to collect every detail on new purchases (such as size, color, when you bought). With all this info, the app can then give you a complete window into all your clothes (total value, items), driving a recommendation engine that can plan what you'll wear for the workweek or vacation ahead. And the platform will also help you manage your clothing care, repairs, donations and reselling. The brand's language is heavily focused on wellness, with a "wellbeing tracker," a special tool "that helps you feel better about your wardrobe." Finery is another high-tech wardrobe app that provides smart outfit suggestions and uses a vast database of online outfits and other people's shopping habits to power suggestions for you.

Rip Off the Labels: Fashion's New Inclusivity around Size and Gender

The fashion industry is all about labels, not just Chanel or Levi's, but labels such as "petite" or "plus-sized" or "man" or "woman"-dictating what you should buy, in what part of the store, and at what racks. But in our era of feminism, body positivity and "wokeness" of all kinds (especially from millennial and gen Y generations), all those labels are being questioned, and the fashion world is embracing a dramatically healthier inclusivity around body shape and gender identity that is shaking up the language they use, the runway, new collections and social media.

Clothing that Fits...Without Labels
If there is one uber-trend in fashion these last years, it's that a new comfort is demanded: from the loose, structural and modest high fashion for women to the athleisure, workleisure and streetwear takeover. Fit has rightly become a feminist issue, given an industry that stubbornly refused to acknowledge the size of actual women's bodies. Brands have retailed the old 0-12 when 40 percent of women globally are overweight,[5] and, for example, the average American woman wears between sizes 16-18.[6] In the last couple of years, companies, such as fast-growing pioneer Universal Standards, or Premme or Isolated Heroes, have stepped in to provide great-looking, sophisticated clothes for women with larger bodies. Mainstream brands, such as Reformation, J.Crew and Madewell, are expanding their size ranges up. They're digesting the data: The size-inclusive market is expected to jump from $21 billion globally to $60 billion by 2020.[7]

But the future is total inclusivity and breaking down the walls and labels around size. Ahead-of-the-curves Universal Standards points to the new directions: It gathered a cult following for its plus-sized line, but in 2018 added smaller sizes, and in 2019 will launch collections that span 0-40. Co-founder Alexandra Waldman has argued, "The world doesn't need another plus-sized brand. We need to...just start making clothes for women, for everyone." The body-inclusive fashion moves are everywhere, from Asos's fitness line that spans petite to size 30 to Rihanna's new, headline-grabbing, body-diverse Savage x Fenty lingerie collection to Serena William's new line that is expanding its sizes up but just calling them the "Great" collection.

Gender Fluid Fashion
A raft of studies shows that millennials and gen Z have brave new ideas about gender identity: believing it shouldn't define people, with younger generations embracing much more fluid identities. And the future of fashion is to interrogate the constricting, arbitrary boxes we get shoved into: blue versus pink, dresses versus suits, pretty versus masculine.

The first chapter in that revision is a slew of clothing brands now blurring gender lines, with a rise in unisex or "fluidly sexed" collections. If our first sartorial moment was having a pink or blue onesie clapped on us, now, more baby/kids brands are nixing gender stereotypes. For example, Celine Dion's new childrenswear brand Celinununu has a mission to free children from the "girl" "boy" prison, with gender-free colors and dresses available for both boys and girls. More adult brands have an explicit mission of producing genderless clothes, such as Rebrand, Agender or NYC store, The Phluid Project. More mainstream brands like Asos and Zara have rolled out unisex collections.

If gender-neutral clothes are welcome liberation, in pursuit of that gender-busting "middle" ideal, they can sometimes bleach the richness of what the categories of "feminine" and "masculine" once held. The future, a next stage in "well" fashion, will be more exploration of all the things that clothes could let someone be.

More Meaningful, Creative, Story-Based Fashion

Jessica Jesse, who provided the roadmap for this trend about the myriad ways that fashion will become more "well," notes that while we humans are hardwired to be individuals, so much of recent (and fast) fashion has robbed us of our uniqueness and histories. In other words, the very joy of fashion: its unique power to express meaning and tell a story. The dopamine rush of swiping a credit card for another pair of identical jeans or workout leggings is not joy.

Jesse predicts a future where personal expression and meaning will matter more in fashion. "The Maasai women of Kenya and Tanzania are really the best-dressed women in the world," noted Jesse. "Everything they put on has a provenance, a complex meaning, and tells a story-every colorful pattern in the many-layered fabrics they wear, every bead on their necklaces, tells who they are and where they came from, over generations." (Maybe that's why Pinterest just reported that "African print fashion" was one of the top fashion trends of 2018, with searches up 229 percent-people are hungry for more vibrant, tradition-rich, means-something fashion.)

If, in the West, women have but one day (their wedding) devoted to the concept of meaning and story as the very point of dressing-"something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue"-in the future, Jesse predicts, that kind of philosophy will become more everyday-important. A slower, more mindful, more self-expressive form of dressing will rise, where each item bought or chosen has value-whether because it was crafted, not mass-manufactured; or refashioned from something in your mother's or friend's closet; or your own more thoughtful experimentation in capturing through your clothes what makes you, you.

The Future

The future of fashion is re-thinking each touch-point in the cycle: from how brands design and make our clothes to how we buy, care for, experience and dispose of them. Every single point is broken, and the fashion industry is a massive force in destroying the planet and hurting people. As we've seen, there will be so many innovations that usher in a new age of sustainable, "clean" fashion-from a materials revolution crafting fabrics from plastic bottles and algae to the possibility of on-demand, bespoke clothes that fight overproduction to a surge in platforms that make recycling, reselling and renting our wardrobes a snap. And the new intersection between wellness and fashion will also mean clothing that can optimize our wellbeing-that regulates heat and airflow or helps us sleep or heal.

There are many other things to discuss, such as fashion retailers bringing all kinds of wellness experiences into the store, whether it's Eileen Fisher's new Making Space test-store in Brooklyn that offers wellness education/experiences (such as Mindfulness-Based Stress Reduction) or big US shoe retailer DSW offering a "Sole Lounge" dedicated to foot wellness, including mani-pedis. A discussion is also needed around delivery getting radically more local (there's a whole lot of shipping going on in the new online luxury resale and rent-your-wardrobe models).

But the real future is about people getting real. It's about each of us taking a very hard look at our fashion consumption behavior and some deeply honest stock of our emotional relationship to clothing. Because, while the appearance of so many amazing sustainable and ethical fashion brands is a wonderful thing, we will never be able to stop the nightmare environmental destruction caused by the fashion industry unless we stop buying so many new clothes, shoes and accessories.

The most powerful solutions are low-tech. It means embracing that less is truly more, buying less new stuff, and keeping it longer. It means changing our attitude about pricing: We know that an $8 t-shirt can't be sustainable or fair to workers. We need to recycle our clothes for reuse or resale. We need to buy more used or vintage or recycled clothing-it's luxury for less. We need to proudly re-wear our clothes, a rising global movement being embraced by celebs, such as Cate Blanchett, Michelle Obama and Kate Middleton, with social media initiatives, such as it's "chic to repeat" or #StyleRepeats. We need to wash/dry our clothes less and run cycles on cold. Of course, we will buy new clothes, but let's proudly celebrate new "labels," and brands that choose sustainability and treat workers and animals right.

We think 2019 will be a watershed year where more people will trade in the addictive endorphins of manic fashion consumption for the serotonin (true peace and happiness) of buying slower and choosing clothes with values and meaning. It would be an investment in our mental wellness: Studies show people who focus on material possessions have more anxiety, depression, low self-esteem and intimacy problems.

The overproduction and overconsumption of fashion, fueled by cheap global markets and materials, and which really kicked up in the 70s and went haywire in the 2000s, we think, is really just a blip in history. A more "well" fashion market and mindset is ahead.

Endnotes

[1] Council of Textile Recycling, 2018.
[2] Colleen Leahey McKeegan, "The 15 Coolest Tech Products Changing the Future," Marie Claire, September 25, 2018, https://www.marieclaire.com/home/a23340334/next-big-thing-tech-products/.
[3] Grand View Research, 2017.
[4] Divya Bala, "Well Healed: Can Clothing Cure?" Fashion: Inspiration (blog), Vogue Paris, November 21, 2018, https://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/story/victoria-beckham-fashion-as-wellness-ayurvedic/4109.
[5] WHO data, 2016.
[6] Study in the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2016.
[7] Coresight Research data, 2018.

Copyright © 2018-2019 by Global Wellness Summit.
If you cite ideas and information in this report please credit "2019 Wellness Trends, from the Global Wellness Summit".
For more information, email beth.mcgroarty@globalwellnesssummit.com.

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By Beth McGroarty A new era of sustainable, ethical, intelligent, healing, more inclusive and meaningful clothing is on the rise The moment we're born, clothing gets slapped on us. And for most of us, that founding moment foretells a nearly lifelong, complex relationship (even obsession) with what we wear.

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For consumers, especially millennials, authenticity is key. Despite the overuse of the term, with many brands adopting it as a marketing strategy, being transparent and offering a genuinely unique personality remains essential in order to keep a loyal consumer following. As Douglas Brundage VP of Strategy at Team Epiphany says,
"Brands should stop focusing on cold, tactical, self-promotional messaging geared toward garnering points on the ephemeral authenticity scale. Instead, they should rally around personalities. Focus on creating an interesting story and a unique aesthetic."
So if a brand's story is not centered, or within stretching distance of health or wellness, that narrative should not be forced; instead brands need to be bold and remain true to their purposes and the consumer will respect it.

A new balanced mindset

The consumer mindset towards health is shifting. Despite wellness extremes, like following a 'clean' or paleo diet, a new more balanced attitude is emerging. This new way of thinking is embracing of a more positive and sustainable lifestyle. As part of this consumers are enjoying moments of indulgence, and choosing to invest in quality and premium products during this time.

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How are brands adopting wellness to engage with consumers? | News

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For consumers, especially millennials, authenticity is key. Despite the overuse of the term, with many brands adopting it as a marketing strategy, being transparent and offering a genuinely unique personality remains essential in order to keep a loyal consumer following.

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Consumers are placing more value on health and wellness than on material objects these days, and the definition of health and wellness has evolved. The phrase no longer refers simply to a lack of illness and disease, but to a more holistic state of being, where one's mental, physical and emotional health are in sync. And in an era in which so many catalog their lives on social media, looking great, feeling good and sleeping well are the new luxuries that consumers want to enjoy and flaunt.

Last week, I heard Jack Ma, Chairman and Founder of Alibaba, speak at Alibaba's Gateway '17 summit in Detroit, and I think he properly summed up this growing trend: today's customers want to be healthy and happy, no matter who they are. Owning the most expensive or the latest goods has taken a back seat to looking good and feeling good, and consumers are showing an increasing preference for participating in activities and indulging in experiences that promote their well-being-and sharing those experiences with their friends.

People are spending on a holistic approach to health and wellness that includes nearly every aspect of life, even sleep. Consumers are increasingly participating in fitness classes and activities that improve well-being; using products, devices and apps that aid sleep; and eating organic and natural foods, taking health supplements, and following special diets.

The popularity of the health and wellness trend is visible across consumer groups, and it differs significantly from the various food and exercise trends that took hold in previous decades. Eating healthily, exercising regularly and monitoring one's health have become a lifestyle choice. According to Euromonitor International, the global market for health and wellness offerings reached $686 billion in 2016 and it is expected to grow at a 3.5% CAGR, to $815 billion, by 2021.
Millennials: The Driving Force Behind the Wellness Trend
While this trend is visible across age groups, millennials are driving its growth. Millennials, who were born between 1980 and 1999, have grown up in a time of rapid change, so their priorities and expectations are sharply different from those of previous generations. According to the Harris Group, 72% of millennials would rather spend money on experiences than on material goods, and that preference is forcing retailers to adapt as more millennials ascend into adulthood and increase their spending power. For millennials, wellness is a daily, active pursuit, and one they are willing to spend on. Many of them bring fitness into everyday life visibly by wearing athleisure apparel for all kinds of activities other than working out. They also enthusiastically track their fitness training and sleep data through apps: research firm Forrester found that millennials and Gen Zers combined account for 69% of all fitness wearable owners.

In terms of shopping, millennials tend to prefer an experiential retail environment that goes beyond the transactional. Anjee Solanki of Colliers International, a leading global commercial real estate company, says that "any successful brick-and-mortar retail business knows that it's important to give customers a memorable experience in an immersive, dynamic environment by changing the physical spaces constantly to give customers something fresh and new."
Wellness Meets Retail
The concept of wellness as a luxury is about more than just being fit-it is also about feeling happy and indulging in experiences that promote well-being, and sharing those experiences with friends. Nordstrom is one retailer that appears to be focused on providing customers with that kind of memorable experience. The company's store in Torrance, California, offers shoppers distinctive amenities such as a roomy "girlfriend" fitting room where friends can try on clothes together and a lounge outside the fitting rooms called The Apartment that has comfy couches and flat-screen TVs so people can be entertained while they wait for friends or family to try on clothes. Nordstrom has made simple changes to its brick-and-mortar spaces to make customers feel comfortable and coddled in stores, which entices them to return.

Other retailers are also reacting to the health and wellness trend in order to stay relevant. In early May, Saks Fifth Avenue unveiled a first-of-its-kind retail space dedicated to health, beauty and fitness in its New York City flagship location. The space, called the Wellery, is located on the second floor of the store, which has been transformed into an indoor marketplace with offerings from 20 individual retailers. The Wellery combines traditional brick-and-mortar shops with unique in-store experiences to drive traffic to the store. Out of the 20 retailers operating in the space, 16 offer an experiential retail experience. Customers can visit the space to purchase fitness equipment and luxury workout gear, take fitness classes, and get health and beauty treatments such as manicures, facials and makeovers. The retailers that operate within the Wellery stay for only for a few months, acting as pop-up shops, which ensures that the space remains fresh and relevant.

Dr. Nigma Talib, a naturopathic doctor to A-list clients, believes that, in addition to wanting experiences, "people want to feel transformed." Saks Fifth Avenue has addressed that desire by introducing one of the few salt rooms in New York at the Wellery. A salt room is a spa treatment where clients relax in a room made or filled with salt, breathing in misty salty vapors to purify the body. Visitors can schedule a 20-minute "Breathe" treatment session to rejuvenate and detox themselves for healthier skin, sounder sleep and clearer sinuses.

Down the hall in the Wellery, Parsons Xtreme Golf (PXG) has opened its first brick-and-mortar location, where visitors can demo custom-fitted, luxury clubs on a golf simulator. PXG was launched only two years ago by GoDaddy founder Bob Parsons, who is committed to creating the finest golf clubs, regardless of cost.

Another way that retailers are accommodating customers' focus on wellness is by changing their loyalty programs, so that they offer unique benefits rather than being solely frequency-based. Companies are now seeking to elicit a positive, emotional reaction (such as joy or excitement) through their loyalty programs and are offering rewards that customers feel are truly valuable. Amazon's Prime program is an example of this, as it offers a wide variety of exclusive services, including free shipping and many streaming options, to Prime members.
Brick-and-Mortar Retail Capitalizes on the Home Fitness Market
Demand for home fitness equipment is rising due to increased health awareness, and consumers are willing to pay extra for luxury home fitness offerings. Global Market Insights estimates that the home fitness equipment market will grow by 4.7% per year from 2016 to 2022, to $12.8 billion. Many brands are developing unique offerings to meet consumer demand for at-home fitness options. Founded in 2012, Peloton is a new concept in home fitness. The product combines the motivation and experience riders would find in an indoor cycling studio with the convenience of an at-home workout. Peloton sells a home cycling system equipped with a large screen that lets users join live spin classes or choose from prerecorded sessions. The company is developing a cult following by capitalizing on consumers' desire to connect with others they have something in common with. Peloton has created a high level of brand loyalty by establishing a community in which members jokingly agree they have a "cultlike" interest. The brand epitomizes wellness as a luxury, as the at-home Peloton system costs $1,995, making it an exclusive and, for many, an indulgent, investment in their own well-being. The Wellery at Saks Fifth Avenue features a Peloton store where consumers can learn about the program and equipment.
Conclusion
Consumers are shifting away from purchasing luxury goods in favor of splurging on wellness as a luxury, and traditional brick-and-mortar retail stores are responding by changing their offerings. Gone are the days of regular shopping sprees as a form of retail therapy. Experiential retail offerings are replacing traditional formats, and those retailers that evolve with consumers' changing demands are the most likely to be successful.

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Wellness Is The New Luxury: Is Healthy And Happy The Future Of Retail?

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Consumers are placing more value on health and wellness than on material objects these days, and the definition of health and wellness has evolved. The phrase no longer refers simply to a lack of illness and disease, but to a more holistic state of being, where one's mental, physical and emotional health are in sync.

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6 Trends Shaping The Future Of Luxury Athleisure Fashion

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Luxury athleisure is the fastest growing fashion category. Discover the trends that will shape the future of the industry in the future.

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How can fashion better address the needs of disabled people?

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How can fashion better address the needs of disabled people?

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OXFORDSHIRE, United Kingdom - When Sinéad Burke took to the VOICES stage in 2017, she called out the fashion industry for completely disregarding the disabled.

"You've been doing it quite wrong," said Burke, who herself is a little person. "You think you know what disabled people need or want, instead of asking us. Make yourself vulnerable. Bring us to the table and ask us for our greatest insights because we live this experience every day."

Over one billion people, or 15 percent of the world's population, experience some form of disability, according to the World Bank Group. In the UK, almost 20 percent of working age adults are disabled, according to British disability equality charity Scope. Yet disabled people are still very much excluded from the mainstream fashion conversation, despite commanding a global spending power of over $1.2 trillion, according to a report by the Return on Disability Group. This figure hits $6.9 trillion when families, parents and carers of disabled people are also taken into account.

Disabilities come in a myriad of forms and can demand specific clothing needs, such as an adjusted size and fit or alternative closures. For example, regular-cut trousers will often ride up when the wearer in a seated position, making them impractical for wheelchair users. Buttons and fine zippers can be fiddly for those with dexterity issues. At three feet, five inches tall, Burke finds it hard to find clothing that accommodates both her height and her body shape (kidswear is not often designed for a body with hips and a bust). She works closely with a seamstress to make alterations to her clothes so they better fit her body.

Burke returned to VOICES, BoF's annual gathering for big thinkers in partnership with QIC Global Real Estate, a year later to host a discussion about how fashion can best tackle this issue. Industry power players, including C-suite executives, designers, venture capitalists and retail owners, came together to discuss in-depth how the industry could be more inclusive of the disabled community. The conversation was held under the Chatham House Rule to ensure anonymity and allow participants to speak honestly and freely.

Here are five key learnings that emerged from the discussion.
Education is key.
Only once brands, retailers and industry stakeholders become aware about different disabilities, and understand the various challenges that disabled individuals face, will it be possible to make any kind of meaningful or impactful change.

"When we're thinking about how the fashion industry can better represent disabled people, or anybody who is challenged in any way, we need to readjust our thinking in so many different ways," said one VOICES Salon attendee.

Connecting with disabled individuals, as well as organisations that represent the disabled community, will help nurture understanding and awareness. Similarly, creating a safe education space where people can say the wrong things and ask questions can facilitate more open and honest conversation.

"There are so many different terminologies that are chosen or not chosen," said one guest. "By bringing in those voices who have the lived experience, there is this authenticity there, which otherwise we couldn't predict."

It's also important to consider education among the next generation of design talent. One guest lecturer a year at a top design school isn't enough, pointed out one guest. Brands, however, have the power to push fashion design schools to consider the topic more carefully and embed it into the educational curriculum.

"If institutions are not interested in changing how they teach students, the people who can change that is the brands," said a guest. "If you say we will accept interns that have specificity and expertise in inclusive design, which college of education is not going to say yes to this?"
Consult your target audience.
It's really important to bring disabled voices to the table from the very start. Talk to the consumer who will be purchasing and wearing the product, and let them guide you through the process from start to finish. "[They] can give you their lived experience in the most authentic way," said one guest.

One salon attendee worked for a fashion brand that recently launched an adaptive line. "It's the most consumer centric thing I think our company's ever done," the guest said. "Everyone talks about being consumer obsessed, and it's the development of this line and really understanding for all of these very different individuals, what do they need to make their life easier, to make them feel more confident."

Information from the industry on how to go about a project like this was hard to come by. Instead, the brand decided to go out and talk to people. "That's where the information and data mostly is today, rather than in the industry," the guest added.
It's not just about diversity. It's about inclusion.
Visibility of disability in brand marketing isn't enough. Brands need to cater to this consumer and include them in as many ways as possible. For the brand that launched its own adaptive line, modelling the collection on its core products was an important part of this.

"You don't want the different jean, you want the jean that you can't wear that everyone else is wearing. So the more that it is modelled off your iconic items, the better," said a guest who worked at the brand.

The brand also found many product modifications actually required relatively simple solutions. For example, adding magnetic closures to a button-down shirt, but leaving the buttons for aesthetic purposes. "Those are very easy things, [and] can make a world of difference," explained the guest. The brand was able to use its existing supply chain, working with its vendors to make the necessary adjustments.

Inclusion should also be considered in the context of a consumer shopping experience. Often, disabled people and their non-disabled peers cannot shop together in brick and mortar stores due to product offer segregation.

"Retail and shopping is an emotional experience, but also a social experience," pointed out one attendee. "We need to evolve this sectioning and move it into the whole space."

When it comes to online retail, it's about ensuring internet communications are accessible. There are considerations beyond just putting adaptive product up on a brand's website, such as screen reader compatibility for the visually impaired. "With voice technology, there should be a lot more that's accessible," said a guest.
Empower your retail staff.
In most brick-and-mortar stores, disabled people have very little independence. Three in four disabled people have left a shop or abandoned a business because of poor disability awareness or understanding, a study by the Extra Costs Commission, an independent inquiry set up by British disability charity Scope, found. It estimated that UK businesses were missing out on £420 million in revenue each week as a result.

Retail employees are one of the few physical touch-points many consumers have with a brand. But one retail staff's ignorance can ruin a disabled individual's shopping experience - and destroy their relationship with the brand.

"There is a challenge, because at the C-suite level we are talking about inclusion and diversity. We are not having that conversation with the 19 year old behind the cash register who is on minimum wage," said one guest. "If we brought those two conversations together, the customer would have a much better experience and a much more accessible one."

Shop floor training and education is a good starting point. Offering assistance to those who need it and, as one Salon attendee put it, "basing interactions on empathy, not sympathy" are central to a positive retail experience. This will positively impact a customer's brand experience, and probably influence how much money they are willing to spend with that brand.

"[Retail staff] are your connection with the client," said one chief executive. "If they are not able to engage the client, me in the boardroom, I cannot do it and it's as simple as that."
Swap competition for collaboration.
Some brands are better positioned than others to make adjustments and changes to support the launch of an adaptive clothing line. For others, it's a significant time and money investment that they cannot afford.

Partnering with a brand or a retailer that already has the expertise and know-how can be another way to make strides in being more inclusive with fashion product. Creating opportunities for discussion among industry power players will help promote collaboration over competition.

"The moment in fashion you find a consensus, things become easier," said one attendee. This was the case when rival luxury conglomerates LVMH and Kering came together for the first time to create a models' charter.

One salon guest gave the example of Moncler's Genius project. "If you take it to the next level," they said. "Not everybody knows how to do it ... You create a platform where designers that are comfortable in doing it have the recourses to do it."
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How Can Fashion Better Address the Needs of Disabled People?

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Disabled people have long been ignored by the mainstream fashion industry. Here are five steps brands can take to be more inclusive of the disabled community.

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Improvements are still needed in disability representation in fashion

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Improvements are still needed in disability representation in fashion

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Fashion is far from the cliquey, exclusive, snobby world it used to be. Both affordable brands like H&M and high-end fashion houses like Dior are embracing diversity in powerful, palpable ways. Models and inclusivity advocates like Jillian Mercado, Alesandra Kutas, and Danielle Ann Sheypuk are taking the catwalk by storm in wheelchairs, while Madeline Stuart (who has Down syndrome) has become no less than a worldwide phenomenon. While it is a true pleasure to visit a website like Zara and see models of all ages, sizes, and shapes, the fashion industry needs to make bigger advances if it is to truly represent over one billion people in the world who have a disability.

Going Beyond Tokenism

Celebrity model and advocate, Ryan Zaman, has modelled alongside Kate Moss and graced the cover of many magazines, but his mission is more ambitious-to encourage people to learn more about people who are different from them. Zaman, who was born with cerebral palsy, hosts a podcast, The Right Food Forward, which is focused on disability and inclusion in fashion. He shuns tokenism and argues for an industry in which people with disabilities are given real opportunities, both behind and in front of the camera. His own life story is fascinating and worth delving into. There are many cerebral palsy types, some of which have more severe symptoms than others. When Ryan was a baby, his parents were told he might not ever walk and had to have his knees broken to relieve tension in his hamstrings. He has achieved many great things, obtaining a degree in American studies and landing prestigious campaigns.

Encouraging the Industry to Advocate for Authentic Inclusivity

Aaron Philip, a black, transgender model who is signed up with Elite Management and who has cerebral palsy, hit the nail on the head when she said that the big players in fashion-fashion schools, agencies, designers, and more-are the institutions that should be advocating for inclusivity, rather than those who are marginalized. Philip, who was interviewed by Naomi Campbell for Paper's Pride issue, told Vogue that although black and queer people exist in fashion, their representation "is almost non-existent," adding that Jillian Mercado (who has muscular dystrophy) and herself are the only two models signed to major agencies.

The Numbers Speak

Disabled people are still left out of most ad campaigns and runway shows, as reported recently in Teen Vogue. It is therefore important for people in positions of power to call attention to brands that embrace and lack inclusivity. This is an important way to get companies to take action. As stated by Vogue writer, Madison Lawson (who has muscular dystrophy) fashion is a world of color, artistry, and fantasy that can be a vital escape for those who may be facing tough challenges in their daily lives. By including people with disabilities in the boards and marketing and creative teams of major fashion companies, fashion can become a lens through which to make disabled people feel truly "seen," not "stared at."

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Improvements Are Still Needed in Disability Representation in Fashion

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Fashion is far from the cliquey, exclusive, snobby world it used to be. Both affordable brands like H&M and high-end fashion houses like Dior are embracing diversity in powerful, palpable ways. Models and inclusivity advocates like Jillian Mercado, Alesandra Kutas, and Danielle Ann Sheypuk are taking the catwalk by storm in wheelchairs, while Madeline Stuart...

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Ellie Goldstein, Official Gucci campaign. Insider

We are delighted to see Gucci's approach to inclusivity in their recent beauty campaign with Vogue Italia. The beautiful Ellie Goldstein is the first Down Syndrome model to work with the brand, a great achievement for anyone trying to make their way in the world of fashion and beauty.

The model from Essex is represented by Zebedee Management, who shares that they are "passionate about redefining the perception of beauty, disability, and diversity". As a result, Goldstein has been building a strong entry into the Industry having previously featured in campaigns with Nike, Superdrug, and Vodafone. At only 18-years old, and soon to be appearing on the pages of Vogue Italia, the model's future is looking full of excitement and possibility.

Ellie Goldstein, Official Gucci campaign.

Selected to model for the Brand via social media, Goldstein's campaign centres on Gucci's Mascara L'Obscur. Talking to the Independent, Creative Director Alessandro Michele reveals "I designed L'Obscur mascara for an authentic person who uses make-up to tell their story of freedom, in their way". With an aura that radiates throughout the room, it seems Goldstein was the perfect fit to represent L'Obscur: a mascara that Gucci markets as one with "charm and mystery". Captured in an embellished gold Gucci dress with subtle makeup and a radiant smile, Goldstein is a natural beauty that fulfills these qualities perfectly.

The Gucci Beauty Instagram page shared a picture from Goldstein's photoshoot which according to the Independent was Gucci's "biggest liked post EVER". Amongst celebrities such as Harry Styles and Dakota Johnson which also feature on the page, Goldstein has claimed the spotlight. Thousands of supportive comments have been made on the post, many congratulating the diverse approach of the Brand along with the beauty of the model. It seems Gucci were right on time with the Campaign, embracing that refreshing and inclusive approach to beauty that we have all been waiting for.

Ellie Goldstein, Zebedee management

At Voir we love to see women embracing their power with confidence and individuality and Ellie Goldstein is a perfect Ambassador. Posting a headshot picture on her personal Instagram account captioned "Proud of being me", we see a young woman who is confident and beautiful in her own skin, something which we can all be inspired by. We are excited to see Goldstein taking the Industry by storm and will be looking out for her next campaign!
Words by Brooke Savino Graphics by Georgia Walters

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Ellie Goldstein Stars in Gucci Beauty Campaign as First Down Syndrome Model - Voir Fashion

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We are delighted to see Gucci's approach to inclusivity in their recent beauty campaign with Vogue Italia. The beautiful Ellie Goldstein is the first Down Syndrome model to work with the brand, a great achievement for anyone trying to make their way in the world of fashion and beauty.

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The Adaptive Fashion Opportunity.

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Selling Wellness: E-commerce Strategies.