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Mark your pocket line 15cm,mark each end and also the centre.

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Transfer the pocket line to the back side of your fabric. This baste your linen over where the line is.

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Cut pocket flaps 19cm x 5 and baste onto the right side of the fabric on the pocket line.

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Sew foot width each side. making sure you finish each side at the same stop and start point you have marked. Also remember to sew each side in the same direction to allow for the stretch of the fabric.

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Cut down pocket line, and create prongs on each side .

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Press open where you have cut open the pocket line. Remove basting thread and full flaps through to the right side and press

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Pull prongs out and sew t secure the pocket

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Baste stitch the jets so they are even and secure.

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Machine stitch along the bottom jet to secure it.

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Attach the inlay fabric to your pocket bag, then fold down from the top and check it will be in the correct place.

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Attach the pocket bag to your pocket, attach to the bottom of the flap, sew a foots width and press open.

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Now bring the bag up so it is in line and sew around the pocket bag. Start at the top of the jet and work your way around to the bottom then back to the top to where you started .

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First lay your pattern on to your chosen fabric. Make sure they are parrell to the selvedge to follow the grain line.

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Once you have struck out the pattern you need to mark stitch the fabric.

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lay your cut out body piece onto your fabric. Make sure grain line is the same. chalk out forepart of your waistcoat. mark 6cm from the edge , and 1.5 cm over the top and bottom. follow picture and diagram below

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now trace out onto the fabric laid below your body piece. cut 2

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now cut your lining. lay lining pattern out also body piece you have previously cut and chalk out

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roll pieces into a ball so none are lost during the making of the garment.

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lay body piece onto your holand linen, chalk out and cut.

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Transfer dart onto the linen, and move 2.5 cm towards the arm hole. then cut x2

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dart moved 2.5 cm

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cut 2 2cm strips the length of your dart.

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sew in the 2 strips you have just cut joining the dart. then zig zag stitch along the length.

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Cut out the mark stitching being careful not to pull any out separating the two.

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Fold face to face on your dart and sew, while adding celeshia to the top of the dart.

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the cut open your dart on the wrong side and press open.

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press open dart, use tailors ham

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Now baste your fabric to the canvas. make sure the back part of your dart is facing to the face of the waistcoat to prevent it rubbing on the wearers body.

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now create your welt using the template making sure when you alternate the angle for each side of the pocket.

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template for drafting the welt.

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cut out welt and flap and start to form  the pocket . follow steps below

baste onto linen

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cut corners so it is easy to fold and baste along line.

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fold corners and baste in place

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fold welt along line and baste

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sew a foots length either side. the bottom being a few mm bigger than the top. see photo below

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cut open across the centre line, and press

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serge edges together. using raw edge felling stitch

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attach pocket bag. make sure it follows the line of the welt

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trim pocket bag

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pull welt through and hand stitch down. use the prick stitch to attach and felling stitch.

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sew forepart onto the body 1cm seam allowence

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trim away linen around the body ready for when you sew the edge tape around .

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remember to add ease when adding tape into the chalked areas

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trim around the arm hole to allow the edging to ease

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cut at the bottom and roll fabric up, baste into position

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fold bottom on the body up and baste into place

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press open forepart of the body ready to be turned over.

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turn over and bast into position and press

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now move onto the lining. take the part you have cut for the body and pinch up the fabric to create some ease  and press

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first step is to draft the welt  ready to cut and make. Use the formula shown.

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baste lining onto the inner side of the waistcoat, use the felling stitch to attach the lining.

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draw out welt onto fabric

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cut out flap and interface. also interface where the pocket will be on the wrong side.

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position pocket bag and sew down the line of the pocket, making the top smaller than the bottom

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cut along the pocket line and press open , pull welt though

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snip bag to where you have finished sewing.

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sew pocket bag together

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Use the side stitch to further secure the lining.

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Take the back piece place right side to right side and sew together

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now press open seam

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sew seam along the bottom.take your back adjusters and place onto the waistcoat. Make sure they are evenly placed

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first take your pocket pattern and place it on the lining material . make sure you cut it on the bias. This is so the lining will stretch and give the pocket a nice shape.

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now use the same template to mark and cut the material you will be making the pocket out of.

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now trim a few mm all the way around the lining . this is so it will stretch the fabric and give the pocket a nice curve and shape.

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now baste the lining onto the pocket stretching the lining to meet the edge of the pocket. do this right side to right side.

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use the machine to sew around the pocket sewing a foots width round the pocket.

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trim edge of the pocket. this will make it easier when you turn it inside out.

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turn pocket inside out. use your hands to roll the pocket so you get a nice shape. Then baste into place.

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now use the side stitch to secure the pocket.

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cut out welt and linen ready t to sew.

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baste strict along your linescut a small triangle on each side on the fold line. And fold and baste.

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tuck any lose end in when folding.

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use the raw edge felling stitch on the top of the welt. the prick stitch and the feeling stitch on the sides to secure it into position.

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lay welt into position onto the welt mark that you have marked stitched.

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now sew welt and flap into place where you have marked. sew the flap a few mm less each side

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now cut on the reverse side to create the opening and also the prongs.

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now press open the linen and the fabric.

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Once happy with the positioning pin them so they stay secure while you sew. You will use the side stitch to secure them. sew a small box.

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Use the side stitch to secure the end also

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place the waistcoat onto the lining. the right side of the waist coat facing the back of your lining. line shoulders up.

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step 31

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use pins to hold into place and then baste stitch them together making sure you done stitch the body of your waistcoat only lining to lining.

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sew the side of the waistcoat using the machine.

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mark a place that you will leave open so you can pull it though.

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sew all the way around making sure your foot of the machine is slightly raised. Also that you are not sewing any of the body when you go around the armholes. It should only be lining to lining .

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make some small cuts around the armhole

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now pull through the hole you left out.

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now sew up the hole you left out using the feeling stitch.