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The aperture is selected by the user and the appropriate shutter speed is controlled automatically.

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Camera setting corresponding to a particular f-number

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A space through which light passes in an optical or photographic instrument, especially the variable opening by which light enters a camera

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The visual quality of the out-of-focus areas of a photographic image, especially as rendered by a particular lens

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the distance between the lens and the image sensor when the subject is in focus

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distance between the nearest and the furthest objects that give an image judged to be in focus in a camera

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digital single-lens reflex camera is a digital camera that combines the optics and the mechanisms of a single-lens reflex camera with a digital imaging sensor

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is a set of data that describes and gives information about other data

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is a technology that helps stabilize the lens movement associated from hand shake which helps eliminate blurry photos resulting from hand shake or too slow of a shutter speed

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are reduced-size versions of pictures or videos, used to help in recognizing and organizing them

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is one of the main settings on your camera, and it lets you manually control shutter speed, aperture, and ISO

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Often times, professional photographers will always tell you to shoot in a manual mode. Most newbie photographers wonder why they need to shoot in manual mode when they can easily shoot in Automatic mode. In this article, you will learn everything you need to know about the camera manual mode and why you should be using it.

What's Manual Mode Anyway?

Manual mode is one of the main settings that come on camera (other settings include automatic and semi-automatic). This mode lets you (the user) control the camera settings such as aperture, shutter speed, and ISO manually. These 3 settings work together to determine how your image will turn out.

One problem most beginners have is that they don't even know how shutter speed, ISO, and aperture works, thus controlling them is always going to be a problem. But you shouldn't let that stop you. If you don't know these functionalities, you can search the internet or read your camera's manual to know how they work and how you can control them.

You should understand that you need to keep on learning if you want to grow as a photographer. You can start your journey by learning aperture, ISO, and shutter speed functions and control and then learning manual mode will be easy for you.

In the me antime, below are some of the best reasons why you need to be shooting in manual m ode:

1. Have a Creative Control

One of the best reasons for shooting in manual mode is that it allows you to have a creative control over shutter speed and aperture or the brightness of your shot in general.

Let's take a look at these settings one after another:

Aperture

You will have more control over the depth of field in your image when you manually control aperture. With a large aperture, you can be able to create shallower depths of field and can help you model stand out from the background. Moreover, you can use this feature to create amazing bokeh. Overall, shooting in manual mode allows you to make the choice based on the result you want to achieve.

Shutter Speed

When you control shutter speed manually, you can be able to capture motion in more creative ways. In fact, you can be able to capture shots where your subject shows some motion blur by selecting slower shutter speeds. Slow shutter speeds are what will help you capture those neat nighttime city shots of cars or making trails of light and waterfalls.

Alternatively, you can freeze motion when you control shutter speed manually, for instance, you can freeze motion to capture a child jumping in midair.

Overall, you can decide how you want movement in your image to be portrayed when you are able to choose your shutter speed.

2. Create Beautiful Bokeh

If you really want to create those beautiful bokeh, you need to learn to shoot in manual mode. Bokeh effect is always desirable in portraits; it can make your subject stand out. You can make your portrait stand out by choosing the maximum aperture value with the lowest possible ISO. Note that since your entire frame is filled with the subject, you need to have lower ISO value so that you avoid noise that can ruin your shots.

3. Control Light

Manual mode allows you to determine the exact amount of light you want to let in. You can do this by determining how long your shutter stays open. If you let in too little light, you will lose detail and won't be able to see what you are looking at. Alternatively, you can slow down the shutter speed to let in more light and can even blur your images. Knowing that you can control the amount of light you let in allows you to find the best scenario for your shot. Moreover, it allows you to avoid using those nasty flashes on your subject.

4. Get Consistent Exposures

When you are shooting in Auto mode, you let your camera decide how dark or bright your photo will turn out. This is just like rolling the dice every time you hit the shutter release. Your camera determines what it thinks that are ideal settings for aperture, shutter speed, and ISO in auto mode. However, as the frame changes as a result of you moving the camera or the subject moving, the exposure may also change. The implication of this is that two shots taken one after the other in the same scene may have very different exposures. This can lead to an inconsistent set of images.

On the other hand, shooting in manual mode ensures that your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings remained unchanged so that your shots will be consistent as far as they are taken as the same scene and the same time. You will be certain of getting consistent exposures when you are shooting in manual mode.

5. It Doesn't Need Fancy Or Cutting-Edge Gear

Shooting in manual mode in street photography doesn't require fanciest or most cutting edge gear. You just need to ensure that your camera has the ability to manually control exposure and focus. This is better than using autofocus which demands intelligent processor and metering system to be able to produce the right results. When you are shooting in full manual mode, you can easily make use of DSLR, mirrorless or compact camera and still get great photos.

Learning Manual Mode

Manual mode demands some learning curve. The first thing you should understand is that it takes time before you can start getting it right. You will need tons of practice to learn how to adjust your settings perfectly.

I will recommend that you start with Program Mode (labeled "P"). This mode works like Auto mode. However, it allows you access to exposure compensation which you can use to determine how bright or dark your images will be. Once you get comfortable shooting in this mode, move up to Aperture Priority.

Aperture Priority mode allows you to set aperture and ISO of your camera. However, the camera will still determine the speed automatically. Aperture Priority gives you a lot more control over the depth of field in your photos. You can control the brightness of your images since this mode still gives you access to exposure compensation.

Once you are good in Aperture Priority mode, you can take that big step into shooting in Manual mode. Don't be in hurry to get to the manual mode. Practice on other modes recommended above until you get perfect.

Once you master the Manual mode, you will see a big difference in your shots and in your photography.

Get FroKnowsPhoto Guide

I recommend​ Jared Polin's guide to getting out of auto

This guide will show you how easy it is to break free of Auto and unlock your potential to capture amazing images. You will be surprised at how easy it is to take full control of your camera and create captivating photos in any situation.​

You can find out more about the guide here.​

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Often times, professional photographers will always tell you to shoot in a manual mode. Most newbie photographers wonder why they need to shoot in manual mode when they can easily shoot in Automatic mode. In this article, you will learn everything you need to know about the camera manual mode and why you should be using it.

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refers to the fact that you can fiddle with the shutter speed and aperture combo

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determine how your camera behaves when you press the shutter

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refers to a setting on some cameras that allows the user to choose a specific shutter speed while the camera adjusts the aperture to ensure correct exposure

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I have many times been asked what some of the terms in photography mean and how they affect a photograph. I have also heard many of the terms used incorrectly. They are heard so often in advertising and even in passing that people use them in every day speech without really knowing how they are used functionally in photography. It can only make you a better photographer by understanding your camera and its tools better. Most of these are most likely a refresher for many photographers but for some people, they do not come into play consciously because of the usability and function of their camera. Many "point and shoot" cameras use these but do all the figuring out for you. This adds a sense of freedom but also less control over each shot.

Almost every term that comes into play refers to the major component in photography; light. The functions on your camera (and when developing film and prints in the darkroom), overall, control the amount of light exposure. Before digital components were added to cameras, the function of the camera and understanding your photographs was understanding the lighting and how to manipulate and use it to your advantage. I am only naming some of the terms and practices here. These are the most used and the most basic to understanding photography, but they are by no means all of the techniques and practices used by photographers. This also does not go into the terms used in the darkroom when developing film and prints (many of which are the same as in the camera).

1. Aperture

This is also sometimes referred to as the F-Stop (on your camera lens, for example, it may show f/1.4-f/16mm) or focal length.

A very technical definition is that an aperture is a hole or an opening through which light travels. In a camera's optical system, it is the opening that determines the cone angle of a bundle of light rays that come to into focus in your plane of view.

The size of an f-stop affects the depth of field (the portion of a scene that appears in focus in the image). Smaller stops (larger f numbers) create a longer depth of field. This allows a wide scene of objects of a larger distance to be in focus at the same time.

The opposite is true of larger stops (smaller f numbers). This aperture will often produce the objects in the immediate foreground to be in focus while the background is blurred. The further you move away from the camera, the more blurred they will become.

The f-stop will also determine whether or not the image will be vignetted. This is when the edges of your photograph have blurred, rounded, dark edges. Larger stops can also create optical distortion of image (a "fish-eye" lens view). This happens when the view and opening through your lens is larger than your actual range of sight. The horizon and edges will tend to bend in the image.

2. Shutter Speed

This is often set by photographers, in conjunction with the aperture on the camera. Shutter speed is used to describe the exposure time a camera's shutter is open. The longer the shutter is open, the more light it lets into the camera and the more exposed your images become. The light is either exposed to the film itself or, in digital cameras, the sensor. A slower shutter speed can create more of a motion blur effect while a faster one can create a sharp image.

A standard set of shutter speeds on a camera (this will depend on your camera) will range from about 1 second-1/1000 of a second. Most people cannot hold a camera at more than 1/60 a second without creating an unwanted motion blur, simply from holding the camera.

The bulb setting on your camera is for very long exposures. It most SLR cameras, the shutter opens the moment you click and will keep exposing until you click the button for a second time. It can create amazing motion effects and expose an image at night to create beautiful lighting.

3. ISO

ISO (Internal Organization for Standardization) refers to a film's speed and therefore, possible light exposure. In the digital world, this has been computed into a system of exposure to the digital sensor based on if film were being used. In film, the speed was determined by the size of silver halide in emulsion. The larger the grain, the more sensitive the film.

Determining the scale of a film speed is actually fairly complicated. In the ISO arithmetic scale, a doubling of the sensitivity of a film requires a doubling of the numerical film speed value. In general, a higher film speed also equates to less detail in the shot because of increased grain or image noise. The range for film speeds can be anywhere from ISO 11-ISO 3200. Often, higher sensitivity films or ISO are used for night photography.In SLR cameras, the ISO equivalent can be set and changed, depending on the lighting when you are shooting.

4. Light Meter

This is a device used to measure the amount of light being let into an exposure. This will typically include a computer, either digital or analogue, which informs the photographer of which combination of shutter speed and aperture to use to create the correct exposure. As one moves, so does the other. More experienced photographers can do both without any outside help and know which combination works for most settings. In digital SLR formats, you can use external meters or the one built in to your camera. It usually moves up or down 2 stops.

External Digital Light Meter

Internal Light Meter

You can choose to select both manually, or choose one and the camera will fill in the other number based on your choice. Light metering can also lead to bracketed exposures where the photographer takes the same shot several times at different exposures to make sure the lighting is correct. Most of the time, your goal is to have line in the internal light meter be in the middle.

This is just a small example of photography terms and how they are used to manipulate and closely understand your shots. Many photographers experience them in their own way and have techniques for using them to their advantage. No one way is correct and many times it depends on your style, equipment, level of experience and the lighting available. My experience in the way to understand them better is to get to know your camera very well and experiment in different situations. Please leave comments about ones I may have missed and I can maybe add a supplement to this list!

Elizabeth has written 21 awesome articles for us at Photoble

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Photography Terms: Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO

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I have many times been asked what some of the terms in photography mean and how they affect a photograph. I have also heard many of the terms used incorrectly. They are heard so often in advertising and even in passing that people use them in every day speech without really knowing how they are used functionally in photography.

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has the camera calculate both shutter speed and aperture

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is the process of removing unrealistic color casts, so that objects which appear white in person are rendered white in your photo

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Light sources can be divided into natural light sources

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this compensates for the ‘cool’ light of fluorescent light and will warm up your shots

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not all cameras have this setting because it sets things as fairly ‘normal’ white balance settings

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the flash of a camera can be quite a cool light so in Flash WB mode you’ll find it warms up your shots a touch

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this setting generally warms things up a touch more than ‘daylight’ mode

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the light in shade is generally cooler (bluer) than shooting in direct sunlight so this mode will warm things up a little

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what the camera uses to focus on a subject

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is the general technique of taking several shots of the same subject using different camera settings

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is a camera viewfinder where the image captured by the lens is projected electronically onto a miniature display

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will include either digital or analog electronic circuit, which allows the photographer to determine which shutter speed and f-number should be selected for an optimum exposure, given a certain lighting situation and film speed

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a still camera designed primarily for simple operation

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exposure time is the length of time when the film or digital sensor inside the camera is exposed to light

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will keep taking a picture until your finger comes off the shutter button

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the apparent streaking of rapidly moving objects in a still image or a sequence of images such as a movie or animation

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Tripods are used for both still and motion photography to prevent camera movement. Monopod  help support and balance the camera, giving more control of the camera position than what would be possible when shooting by hand

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technique in which exposures are made by moving a hand-held light source while taking a long exposure photograph, either to illuminate a subject or to shine a point of light directly at the camera, or by moving the camera itself during exposure

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a common way of associating the three variables that determine the exposure of a photograph

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alter exposure from the value selected by the camera, making photographs brighter or darker

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several photographs are captured in quick succession by either pressing the shutter button or holding it down

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denoting the photographic technique of taking a sequence of frames at set intervals to record changes that take place slowly over time

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is used in the video/film business for quality-improvement image processing

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using a long-duration shutter speed to sharply capture the stationary elements of images while blurring, smearing, or obscuring the moving elements

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The detail of the image the camera takes

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is an ultra wide-angle lens that produces strong visual distortion intended to create a wide panoramic or hemispherical image

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Movement in the camera

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you pan your camera along in time with the moving subject and end up getting a relatively sharp subject but a blur baclground

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image is one in which the value of each pixel is a single sample representing only an amount of light

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a toning is a specialized treatment to give a black-and-white photographic print a warmer tone and to enhance its archival qualities

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That range of tones which lie between highlights with detail and shadows with detail

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Is a bright spot in a photograph

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is a dark area where light from a light source is blocked by an opaque object