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1. Important factors while taking measurements:

the posture (straight, relaxed)

tight closed or underwear (reduced amount of clothes on)

put one finger in while measuring the circumference for ease

do not pull the tape

2. After striking and cutting the waistcoat there comes the baste fit.

3. Baste fit:

the main fabric - wool

canvas - Holland linen

silesia - light cotton (darts, pocket bags)

lining and the back fabric - polyester sateen

bridal tape

4. Baste fitting (first fitting):

measuring the customer: chest, waist, shoulders’ width, the total length of the waistcoat

basting the stroke and cut pieces of the waistcoat together (exclude the lining and the pockets)

fitting the basted garment on the customer and marking any alterations for the second fitting

How to make a waistcoat:

STRIKING:

1. Press and steam the fabric, match the selvedges and fold.

2. Trace the pattern on the fabric along the grainline including all the marks and darts. Strike it at least 6 cm from the edges.

3. Add a 5 cm inlay on the neckline and the hem. End them at an angle.

4. Mark-stitch: the neckline, darts, pocket positions and the notches.

FACING:

1. 6 cm from the button stand, trace a parallel line and finish it on the hem and in the neckline (use the pattern if helps).

2. Add 1 cm S.A.

3. Cut the front and the facing separately.

CANVAS:

1. Strike the front on the canvas the same way as on the main fabric. Do not cut.

2. Move the dart 2 cm towards the hips to avoid any bulk.

3. Add 1 cm S.A. around the waistcoat.

4. Cut the dart.

5. Cut a 2 cm wide strip of the canvas (on the fold - cut 2 pieces), slightly longer than the dart.

6. Sew the dart closed using the strip (put the strip under the canvas, not on top of it.

7. Zig-zag-stitch the dart and the strip together to secure them both. Stitch the edges of the strip, too!

WAISTCOAT:

1. Close the dart with a piece of Silesia on top of it. The Silesia should be slightly over the top of the dart. Sew the Silesia on one side only of the dart.

2. Cut the dart open and stop before the Silesia. Press the dart (seam) open and the top of the dart on the opposite way of the Silesia (so the Silesia and the closed top of the dart create an open seam together).

3. Baste the waistcoat and the canvas together (the dart on top or under?) - baste along the dart, 1 cm from the neckline, 1 cm from the armhole, from the centre of the shoulder to the bottom (on a curved line like in the picture). While basting, smooth the fabric towards the hips (sides). Do not the inlays. Baste the hemline with a pad stitch. Pad-stitch a horizontal line on the middle of the waistcoat right above the top of the dart. Baste from the middle of the fabric.

4. Make the welt pocket on the dart along the mark-stitch. Remember - the pocket bag can not cross the hemline.

FACING + INLAY:

1. Cut the acres of the canvas. Cut extra: 1 cm on the armhole and 1 cm on the button stand.

2. Baste the bride tape flat on the hem.

3. Baste the bridal tape on the button stand, neckline and the armhole adding ease (Cut the bridal tape 1 cm shorter and wrinkle the fabric in one spot while basting to add the ease). Baste in the middle of the tape.

4. Serge-stitch (pad-stitch) the bridal tape to the canvas (sewing thread).

5. Put the facing on the button stand so the edges match (right side to the right side). Machine-stitch it to the waistcoat with 0,5 cm S.A. Sew it 2 cm over the button stand, then along the button stand and finish horizontally 2 cm on the hemline (pivot the waistcoat once you get to the hem).

6. Cut 1 cm notch on the side of the waistcoat (of the button stand, not the hip), fold the lower part and baste it.

7. Press the seam open and fold the facing towards the inside and baste slightly hiding the seam inside so it is not visible on the outside.

8. Fold the inlays towards the inside and baste them (hem, neckline, armhole). Press them.

9. Use the felling stitch on the folded pieces on the inlay of the hem.

10. Serge-stitch the inlays and the facing to the canvas.

FRONT LINING:

1. Press the fabric, match the selvedges and fold.

2. Trace the waistcoat template adding 5 cm all around. Cut it. Mart the centre of the shoulder, the hem and notches.

3. Put the lining on the waistcoat so the wrong sides face each other. On the right side of the lining create a slightly curved pleat all along from the centre of the shoulder to the centre of the hem. The pleat should face the back and be 1 cm long. Baste it in place (just the lining, not with the waistcoat).

4. Baste the lining flat again, this time to the waistcoat along the pleat, adding 2 cm ease (create small ripples). Do not pull. Stop basting about 6 cm from the hem.

5. Fold edges of the lining hiding them inside and leaving 1,5 cm on the neckline, 3 cm on the button stand, 1 cm on the armhole, 1,5 cm on the hem.

6. On the side in the bottom of the waistcoat, cut the lining at the notch and fold it inside.

7. Baste all the edges and felling-stitch them.

8. Cut the access of the lining on the shoulder and the back of the waistcoat.

BACK LINING:
1. Trace and cut the patterns (outside and inside backs and the strap) on the lining fabric.
2. Fold the straps and fold along the fold line wrong side out and close stitching on the edges. Press the seams open. Turn them right side out.
3. Stitch the inside backs together at the centre seam and press the seams open.
4. Stitch the outside backs together at the centre seam and press the seams open. Stitch the straps on the sides of the outside backs where the notches are. Stitch the straps (more or less in the middle of them) onto the outside back with the side-stitch.
5. Stitch the backs together at the hemline and press the seam open.

FINAL ASSEMBLING:
1. Position one front on outside back, right side facing the right side, leaving 1 cm at the armhole and the neckline. Baste the side and the shoulder in place. Stitch sides with 1 cm seam allowance.
2. Position other side of the front in the same way and baste it t the side and the shoulder.
3. Fold inside of the lining matching the armholes , shoulders and neklines. Baste it and stitch all the edges of the waistcoat with 1 cm seam alowance. IMPORTANT: Leave an opening on the side inside the wasicoat. Be careful to stitch exactly on the corners.
4. Turn the wasitcoat right side out. Finish all the edges of the lining with the prick-stitch.