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The basis of this collection is to create an environmentally, just, and socially sustainable collection from the brand Palm Angels. The capsule collection would be made out of Hemp, a sustainable source derived from the cannabis plant. The face of the collection would be US rapper Playboi Carti as he has been a collaborative in a Palm Angels collection before so has a good connection with the brand, is notorious for his efforts in the legalisation of industrial cannabis, and fights for the men stuck in the US prison system. As well as the collection, an initiative will be created in order to help young men in prison systems all around the world having been convicted of drug charges that find it difficult to be reinstated into the ‘real world’. Proceedings made from the collaboration will be donated in order to help these men get jobs, homes and education. The reason for this being is that we must educate ourselves that environmental sustainability is not the only side of sustainability that affects our planet; and that the people matter just as much as the Earth.

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The concept of my collecion is to educuate my audience on how Hemp can be used to save our environment. I aim to do that by combining three aspects of different things that compliment themselves. The first point of my concept triangle would be the brand, and my brand is Palm Angels. The second point is Playboi Carti, and the third being Hemp. All three elements of conecpt correspond with eachother.

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I have decided to work with the brand Palm Angels as firstly, they appeal to the target market I am aiming my capsule collection at and they have a gap in their product selection for a sustainable element.

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"I feel like an outsider in Italy, 'cause I have more of an American mentality perhaps. But I'm also an outsider in America, because my mentality is more Italian than theirs," says Moncler Art Director Francesco Ragazzi, who founded high-end streetwear brand Palm Angels in early 2015. The brand - which is based off a coffee table book about LA skate culture - combines Italian tailoring with laid-back Cali vibes, and has amassed a substantial following over the course of just two years. A following so substantial, that a first mono-brand store opening is on its way, in addition to an e-commerce launch in February.

I meet the latest cool kid to join Milan's fashion circle inside the city's Studio White space. The day of our interview, the Palm Angels Creative Director is in the process of shooting looks of the brand's fall/winter 2017 collection. The collection, which was presented in the form of a fashion show as part of this fashion month's Milan leg, meant homecoming for the Italian creative. "I staged the first two shows in Paris instead of Milan. On the one hand because I like the idea of being an outsider. On the other, since it made more sense from a commercial point of view. Paris fashion week attracts a certain type of buyer. A buyer that could easily identify with my product. I figured that, since the mood my brand transmits is currently missing from the Milan runways, I'd be an outsider here as well. It can't be just Prada and Fendi when you come here," Ragazzi says while looking at me from behind his tinted sunglasses at 11AM. That mood he is speaking of, comes alive on the runway in the form of hoodies, palm tree logos, Rastafari color palettes, casually tailored suits, oversized fits, plus the occasional cannabis motif here and there. More street, less snob. Contrasting the DNA of Italy's celebrated heritage brands. ''I think of reaching the young consumer. The kid that is now 20 years old, will stay loyal to my brand once he reaches his thirties. The heritage brand's client is typically in his forties or fifties - so they've made up their mind already." About those young ones keeping the Milan-based brand alive, currently the majority of Palm Angels shoppers comes from the US and Asia-Pacific region.

Before the skate aficionado made it to the European runways with his Palm Angels brand, he released a 2014 coffee table book about LA skate culture published by Rizzoli. Images were shot by Ragazzi himself. The foreword was written by none other than Pharrell Williams, who the Palm Angels founder now considers family. "Through the book I wanted people to reinterpret the world of skaters. I think initially the (skater) image was a bit grunge, a bit cheap. I tried to upgrade it using my photography and aesthetic, turning it into a form of art. My relationship with Pharrell started out as a professional one, before turning into a friendship. When I asked him to write the Palm Angels foreword it wasn't because he's Pharrell, but because he's a skater. He's one of my main supporters and last June when he came to Milan we did a little party together." Besides Pharrell, hip hop's new wave of artists is often spotted wearing Palm Angels looks, which the street-lux brand happily shares on the company Instagram. "Celebrity product placement is important in terms of image, but also in terms of creativity. My pieces are often designed with particular celebrities in mind. Nowadays, unfortunately, telling a story is more important than delivering a well-made product. People want to be part of something. Not just the product, but the world that it represents. There's many great designers out there, of which many don't tell a story with their product. That doesn't work right now. Product placement is a form of telling stories and making people part of that world.

His penchant for the American way of life comes from having lived it himself in New York and LA, prior to returning to his home base Italy. At present, the Palm Angels founder finds himself Stateside once or twice a month on average, and vacations in Florida. "To me, the scent of Los Angeles is marijuana - I smell it everywhere. I remember my first time visiting and thinking to myself: 'Jeez! The entire city is on this thing!' (laughs). Cannabis is an important part of skate culture. I didn't manage to transmit this in the book, so it's important for me to transmit it in the collections," the Creative Director says referring to the cannabis motifs which have become pretty much synonymous with Palm Angels ready-to-wear throughout the past seasons.

The year 2017 already looks promising for the Milan-based multi-tasker who recently presented his first womenswear pieces for fall/winter 2017. Up next, is the opening of the brand's first mono-brand store, which will be located in Hong Kong. "In the future I'd like to release a new book. But I'd need to find time to dedicate to it. The other one took me 2 to 3 years to make. I could do the next one about Cannabis."

Based in Milan, I write about fashion and lifestyle-related topics, with a soft spot for Made in Italy and emerging markets. I kicked off my career at the age of 19, con...

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Meet The Man Who Brings Cannabis and Palm Trees to The World of High Fashion

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"I feel like an outsider in Italy, 'cause I have more of an American mentality perhaps. But I'm also an outsider in America, because my mentality is more Italian than theirs," says Moncler Art Director Francesco Ragazzi, who founded high-end streetwear brand Palm Angels in early 2015.

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-PALM CARTI
-CARTI ANGELS
-PLAYBOI ANGELS
-PLAYBOI PALM
-CARTI BY PALM ANGELS

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The brand themselves have never directly claimed their efforts in being sustainable. This is part of the reason I picked the brand as they have not widened their market to cater for those who only shop sustainibly.

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I picked Playboi Carti to work with as he has worked with Palm Angels before and he would suit my concept best.

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American Gen Z-ers hold $44 B in buying power.

47% of Generation Z in the US comprises members of ethnic minorities.

45% of teens say they are online “almost constantly.”

Gen Z spends an average of 11 hours per week on their mobile phones.

55% of Gen Z use their smartphones for 5 or more hours a day.

Gen Z consumers are 2X more likely to shop on mobile devices than Millennials are.

31.8% Gen Z-ers would like to receive emails from brands a couple of times a week.

41% of Gen Z say Instagram is their preferred social media platform for following brands.

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Due to the greater access to large volumes of information on the internet, Generation Z characteristics heavily revolve around their social responsibility. They are more aware of modern day challenges such as climate change and terrorism and they want to see change. They expect brands and retailers to have similar beliefs to themselves and won’t spend money with those that do not.

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SUSTAINABILITY STATISTICS ON THE GENERATION

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SUSTAINABILITY STATISTICS ON THE GENERATION

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Despite the array of labelling on shop shelves, Fairtrade Foundation's Barbara Crowther says 76% of the public believe independent third-party certification is the best way to verify a product's social or environmental claims.

Despite the array of labelling on shop shelves, Fairtrade Foundation's Barbara Crowther says 76% of the public believe independent third-party certification is the best way to verify a product's social or environmental claims.

However, according to Lucy Atkinson, an assistant professor at the University of Texas, while the trust of US consumers lies in government or third-party labels, the appeal of a company doing good is found in a brand's own labelling. Could there be the need for a collaborative approach with a joint labelling scheme, asks Atkinson, or even standardised metrics based on specific concerns such as worker rights or environment, suggests reader, Eleanor Mc.

2. Ethical supply chains touch the heart, but not always the head

Eco fashion expert, Marci Zaroff, explained that sustainability speaks to the heart as it plays on "a connection for the greater good". However, people use their heads to make purchases and consider factors such as style and quality, so these must be met first. Money is also a deciding factor. The added cost of ethical products is unaffordable for those on tight budgets while others can be swayed by discount deals, explained Crowther. "If conventional products are being deeply discounted, it really interferes with people's desire to do the right thing."

3. Tell emotive stories - but they have to be authentic

Consumers vary widely on what aspects or qualities of sustainability they value. For example, for some people the environment is an important factor, for others human rights. By focussing on one area and not another, you can alienate market segments, wrote Atkinson.

Envero's James Cashmore explained that telling an emotive narrative is key: "Many brands use rational/corporate language and concepts when talking about sustainability, when what they need to do is think about creating consumer advocacy by building much stronger emotional connections." But Atkinson adds, with "the vast majority of ads [being] ambiguous or misleading or deceptive" companies need to make sure claims have substance.

4. Brands should do the work, so that consumers don't have to

In the US, often the onus is on the consumer to become informed but this is an unrealistic expectation for most shoppers, who are happy to spend time researching a high involvement purchase such as a computer, but less likely to invest in finding out about everyday, low involvement purchases like bananas.

Technologies like QR codes that can be scanned to provide further information are helpful, but it's a two pronged approach said Crowther, and the consumer expectation is to trust that companies are "sorting this out for them".

5. Product category matters

Consumer priorities differ depending on the type of product. Cashmore explained: "In certain categories - dairy, coffee, chocolate for example - consumers have a more developed understanding of what the supply chain is. In others - soft drinks, snacks, cereals, babyhood and most non-food categories except fashion - the concept of supply chain is a little vaguer." For fashion and jewellery, aesthetics are always paramount so it's only when the style and fit are right, that ethics come in to play, wrote Crowther.

6. Packaging doesn't always tell the full story

While packaging that comes from a recognised renewable resource (ie wood) is often seen as being more sustainable, there are hidden benefits from non-recyclable materials that consumers are unaware of.

"In the case of plastic films for example there is actually some clever technology in use that enables a longer shelf life for the product. Although a consumer might see that style of packaging as 'bad' it is often much less impactful if it can minimise the product being wasted," wrote Simon Oxley a packaging technologist at Marks and Spencer.

It's also about the product inside the packaging too, said one reader: "Customers may feel they are making a sustainable purchase because of the packaging when the product itself is not ie a plastic Barbie doll."

7. Consumer expectations vary from country to country

Perceptions of the role that business should have in ensuring ethical supply chains differs from market to market. "It's interesting how broader cultural beliefs shape expectations of the obligation and potential for businesses to play their part in solving social and environmental problems," commented Cashmore.

8. Education is not enough

Simply correcting consumers' information deficit isn't enough, said Atkinson. "Think about smoking. Most people know that smoking is bad for them, but many still do it. Providing information about the benefits (or dangers) isn't sufficient," she said.

Emphasising the human benefits of buying ethical is the most important factor, as Crowther explains: "It is not just about functional information or education, but a genuinely emotional connection to the positive benefits that can be delivered." Bringing consumers closer to the farmers who produce their purchases is one way to forge this connection.

9. Sustainability should be a must, not a maybe

In an ideal world all products would be ethically produced, with sustainability embedded throughout the supply chain. An example of a supermarket already following these principles is Swiss chain, Migros, which won't stock products it's not happy with. "It's decisions like this that consumers notice when they are decoding the underlying values behind a company or brand. Migros definitely earns trust and loyalty from its principled position," wrote Cashmore.

While the long term vision is for sustainability to be the norm, until this is achieved "the public has a massively important role to play in sending a clear message to companies in where they spend their money," Crowther concluded. The question is: How do we motivate consumers to value sustainable attributes and make those attributes a priority?

10. There is a conundrum between price and value

The true value of sustainability needs to be costed in to products as a norm, so consumers can see that sustainably-sourced goods don't just reflect their values, but also provide better value. Also, adds Atkinson, we must make these options more accessible and more available to consumers who have less disposable income. "It shouldn't just be the wealthy and better off who can afford to shop this way."
Read more stories like this:

Are sustainable supply chains valued by the consumer?

Understanding the origin of products is key to ending supply chain scandals

Advertisement feature: Fairtrade coffee offers women in Rwanda 'a better tomorrow'

The supply chain hub is sponsored by the Fairtrade Foundation. All content is editorially independent except for pieces labelled advertisement feature. Find out more here. Join the community of sustainability professionals and experts. Become a GSB member to get more stories like this direct to your inbox Topics

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Consumer behaviour and sustainability - what you need to know

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Despite the array of labelling on shop shelves, Fairtrade Foundation's Barbara Crowther says 76% of the public believe independent third-party certification is the best way to verify a product's social or environmental claims. Despite the array of labelling on shop shelves, Fairtrade Foundation's Barbara Crowther says 76% of the public

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-By 2020 there will be over 2.5 billion people in this generation, so they are on track to becoming the largest generation of consumers ever.
-Generation Z currently account for somewhere between £22 billion to £112 billion in direct spending
-By 2020, GenZ is expected to account for 40% of the consumer market

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SUSTAINABILITY STATISTICS ON THE GENERATION

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SUSTAINABILITY STATISTICS ON THE GENERATION

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Most people want to be sustainable, but have a hard time taking the necessary actions.

According to Nielsen, a data analytics company, sustainability is the latest consumer trend. Their research shows chocolate, coffee and bath products with sustainability claims grew much faster than their traditional counterparts. Yet only 0.2 per cent of chocolates and 0.4 per cent of coffees have environmental claims.

How can we translate this consumer sustainability buzz into actual action? To find out, our group reviewed 320 academic articles in the top consumer behaviour journals and identified five routes to shift consumers towards sustainable choices: social influence, habits, individual self, feelings and cognitions, and tangibility. Together, these make a handy acronym, SHIFT.

Social influence

Humans are social animals and will follow the actions of others, especially on ethical issues. When people learn they are using more energy than their neighbours, they decrease their energy usage.

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But what if the sustainable behaviour has yet to be established? For example, how does one convince people to install solar panels if no one in their neighbourhood is doing it? A "brand ambassador" can be invaluable. Solar advocates who had installed solar panels in their own homes were able to recruit 63 per cent more residents to purchase and install solar panels.

For ethical behaviours, learning about the behaviours of others can be motivating. In one example, when business students on a college campus heard that computer science students were better at composting and recycling, they more than doubled their efforts.

Habits

To build a new sustainable habit, one must first break bad habits. This is easiest when someone is experiencing big life changes, such as moving, getting married or starting a new job. In one study, people who had recently moved cut their car usage almost in half.

Another strategy is to apply penalties for bad behaviour, rather than rewarding good behaviour. There is a possibility, however, that people will return to their old ways if the penalty is removed and the new habit isn't formed.

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To build new habits, it can be helpful to make the sustainable action easy to do, provide timely prompts, offer incentives to help get the new behaviour started and provide real-time feedback about actions over an extended period of time. A review of feedback techniques finds when real-time energy use is shared directly with homeowners, electricity consumption dropped by five to 15 per cent.

Individual self

Sustainability can appear more attractive when the personal benefits such as health or product quality are highlighted. Emphasizing self-efficacy also works. When people know their actions matter, they make greener choices.

Self-consistency is also important. People like their words and actions to be consistent. Often one environmental commitment can snowball into other actions and changes over time. For example, someone who insulates their house to improve energy efficiency may be more likely to unplug electric devices when they leave for a vacation.

Likewise, consumers expect companies to be consistent. In one study, when a hotel made visible environmental efforts (such as offering compostable toiletries) and asked guests to save energy, guests reduced their energy usage by 12 per cent. In the absence of visible efforts, the appeal appeared hypocritical and energy use increased.

Read more: How the coffee industry is about to get roasted by climate change

There's also self-concept to consider. People make choices that match their perception of who they are or who they want to be. One study found that environmentalism is sometimes perceived as being feminine, which can turn away some men who subscribe to traditional gender roles. Presenting environmentalism as a way to protect and preserve wilderness environments was attractive to both men and women, and closed the gender gap that is often seen in sustainability.

Feelings and cognitions

Sometimes we make decisions at the spur of the moment, based on how we feel at the time. And sometimes we make decisions after thoughtful deliberation. When communicating about sustainability, it is important to consider both the heart and the head.

Consumers seek out positive emotions such as happiness, pride and the warm glow that comes from doing good. If the sustainable option is fun, people will naturally want to do it. Conversely, negative emotions such as fear and guilt can be effective when used subtly. But an overly emotional, guilt-tripping message is a turn-off and will either be actively ignored or even induce the opposite behaviour (psychological reactance).

Read more: Language matters when the Earth is in the midst of a climate crisis

Providing consumers with the correct information and education is important, but it must be framed so that consumers care. Energy labels highlighting the watts used by different light bulbs have little effect on consumer purchases, but energy labels showing the 10-year cost quadrupled energy-efficient purchases to 48 per cent from 12 per cent. Thoughtfully designed eco-labels are a great way to communicate sustainability to consumers.

Tangibility

In general, people don't care much about abstract, future consequences. Therefore, it's critical to make sustainability tangible.

One way is to communicate the local and proximate impacts of pro-environmental actions. For example, how are local animals, plants and people already being affected by climate change?

Concrete examples also help. People are more moved by a photograph showing how far a single glacier has retreated in one year than by a graph of glacier retreat around the world.

To match consumer timescales with environmental timescales, project consumers into the future. One study found that people who were asked to consider their legacy ("How will I be remembered?"), donated 45 per cent more to a climate change charity.

To make the SHIFT, use several strategies at once. For example, make the behaviour social and tangible. Test the approach in a small group and measure the results. If it doesn't work, try something else until you find a winner and then scale up.

Working together, we can close the "green gap" and turn intentions into actions.

[ Deep knowledge, daily. Sign up for The Conversation's newsletter. ]

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5 ways to shift consumers towards sustainable behaviour

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Most people want to be sustainable, but have a hard time taking the necessary actions. According to Nielsen, a data analytics company, sustainability is the latest consumer trend. Their research shows chocolate, coffee and bath products with sustainability claims grew much faster than their traditional counterparts.

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Lot of musicians appreciate nice clothes. Playboi Carti loves them, truly, madly, deeply. He shows up to the photoshoot with several suitcases of his own treasured pieces. Everything comes with a story. A patchwork brown leather jacket? Custom VLONE, he assures me. So are a pair of yellow trousers, which once belonged to Lil Peep (he wears them in tribute to the late artist's "rebellious" energy). He takes special pride in his Italian-made jewellery, gushing over the subtle craftsmanship of his many-faceted rings the way some people talk about beloved pets. At one point, he asks to see my jacket; immediately recognising the make and model, he rushes over to a friend in his crew, jacket in hand, demanding, "Bro, why don't I have this yet?!"

This infectious enthusiasm for texture and colour comes through on his sophomore album Die Lit, released last month on Interscope Records. The release distills his creative impulses to their purest form: impressionist ad-libs splattered over a canvas of springy production from longtime collaborator Pi'erre Bourne. At first glance it sounds messy, even unfinished. But take a step back and a compelling pop landscape reveals itself.

One reason it's so compelling is that Carti's appreciation for the finer things carries real pathos. He grew up in Atlanta without them, shopping at thrift stores and working at an H&M before leaving to seek his fortune in New York. "All I know is where the fuck I came from," he tells me, "And I don't wanna go back."

We met to discuss Carti's old friends, his new punk phase, and a clarification of one eyebrow-raising line from the record.
I feel like you're into this punk phase right now, tell me about that.
Playboi Carti: I'm really into Bam Margera. I've met him twice now. He's like, crazy. Psyched out.
Who else feels like a punk icon to you?
Playboi Carti: Me talking about the legends... everybody can do that. I feel like right now, it's just me and who I surround myself with and how we just compare our similarities to back then. For instance, my best friend Uzi, I hang out with him 24/7. We're so against listening to the rules but it's not harming anyone anymore, it's more like, "Oh, we're going to do this and this ( claps) ". It's like the shit that we do, that be our legendary moments. We don't know exactly how it used to go down back then, but we are ourselves, we're just modern-day rockstars.
Why do you think you and Uzi vibe so well?
Playboi Carti: We think alike, we went through a lot together. I think that's really what it is. We went through a lot together behind the scenes. And you really don't find too many good people. You really don't. Keep them around.

You've got an anarchy tattoo. What do you feel like you're rebelling against?
Playboi Carti: I feel like in this world that we live in, people don't know what you're doing until you do it. You know what I'm saying? If you just express yourself more, everybody else will follow. That's what I'm trying to do.
Did you feel a lot of pressure on you to do things you didn't want to do after you first blew up?
Playboi Carti: Yeah, I be nervous a lot, you know what I'm saying? I'm human so like...as I grow I just realised there's some kids out there who really need me, so that's my push right there.
What do you get nervous about?
Playboi Carti: I get nervous about everything, you want everything to be right. Especially with something like [performing] to thousands of people, I don't know why you wouldn't feel nervous at first.
One thing I appreciate about your album is that it seems like you didn't respond to pressure to change up your sound. You just kept doing at what felt natural to you.
Playboi Carti: I try to not to become inspired too much, because that can throw you off. And that's really what it is. You always got to remember how you got here. I go back to Atlanta and I make my album. And then I go to L.A. and Miami, but Atlanta's where it is. I wanted to get out [of Atlanta] when I first got in the game; (now) I want that same feeling every time. I'm in the studio, white tee on, no jewellery, I'm at home.

When you're working with Pi'erre Bourne, does he send you a ton of beats, or is it more of a collaborative process in the studio?
Playboi Carti: Man, I'm with him every day. So, when we're in the studio together, Pi'erre makes a hundred beats a day. They all fire. He's doing that constantly. So, when I go to studio with him, I'm trying to get at least five, six tracks done. He might hop on two of them. It's the same way with me and Uzi. With me and Pi'erre it's even crazier because it's like, it's just like madness. I be in the booth recording and he just be standing there. And vice versa. In the booth, not talking about anything, in the booth. We work better together because we have each other. Pi'erre, he's a boss. We all bosses. Bosses move like bosses. We just mob ties when we get together. I love him, bro.

"I'm an OG. I was an OG when I was 16, I was an OG when I made the decision I don't want to go to school anymore and start skipping to make music" - Playboi Carti

When you first started out, you were co-signed and mentored by a lot of powerful figures, like ASAP Rocky. A few years later, there's all sorts of younger artists who seem totally inspired by you. Do you see yourself as an OG figure to this new generation, or are you separate from that?
Playboi Carti: I'm the type of guy that always respect the older rappers who paved the way for us to get here. That's just how it works. Everybody ain't like that. I'm not looking for that. I'm an OG. I was an OG when I was 16, I was an OG when I made the decision I don't want to go to school anymore and start skipping to make music. I was OG when I joined a gang. I was an OG when I shot my first gun, fucked my first bitch.
I love this line, "I bought my mom a crib off of mumble rap". Was that something you felt like you needed to say?
Playboi Carti: It was more like, not even needing to say it. It was so easy to say it because it was facts. When stuff is just true, so true, you just think about it, it comes out naturally. "RIP" was a freestyle and I'm just going in. When that beat dropped I felt that. Facts. Everybody really liked that part, especially people that really know me, they're like, "Yeah, that's your shit." My mom, she's so excited. I've just been thinking about my family and shit, and just like everything, bro. I've been thinking about life. I've been thinking about 10 years from now.

What do you see for yourself in 10 years?
Playboi Carti: Just being rich as fuck and being able to take care of my me and mines. Keeping this shit alive. Die lit!
"R.I.P. Fredo" is a really emotional song - what was your relationship with Fredo (Santana, who died of a seizure in 2018) like?
Playboi Carti: That was my brother from another mother. When I was with Rocky, I was with Fredo. Matter of fact, I lived with Fredo and I would leave Fredo's house to go see Rocky. And all that was just Yams. I used to follow Yams if there was something to see. Fredo was very supportive of me from the jump. I can't lie, I miss him so much. He was so supportive, one of the nicest people I ever met in my life. He's a savage. Don't get me wrong. But he really took me in. People don't do that. You don't meet people like that. The last time I saw him, he was telling me how proud he was of me, and I just was like 'Thank you bro, I gotchu.' Fredo and I got some shit. When we go somewhere, he's got money in his pocket. He didn't want nobody paying for nothing. He wouldn't let you pay for shit. Boss. Real boss. Self-made boss, no manager. He was his own manager, his own booking agent, his own travel agent, and he got six niggas on his label.

"The last time I saw him, he was telling me how proud he was of me" - Playboi Carti on Fredo Santana

I feel like around 2013, 2014 when your style was coming together, there weren't so many people rapping the type of synth-heavy production you've popularised...is that something you got from Ethereal?
Playboi Carti: Shoutout to Ethereal. When I met him, I was looking for shit that he was already doing. I was like wow. This is the guy. Ethereal is a legend...without him, I don't know where the fuck I'd be. He's a good dude. So talented. He's another GOAT. I'm not even talking about his music right now. As a human, that man is a really good dude. He took me in when I was skipping school. Took me on the road, started going crazy. My senior year of highschool, he and Father and Key! started going crazy, making all these tracks.
You have this line on "RIP" where it seems like you say "Watch me sock your bitch. Watch me thrash that bitch." Obviously, there's a lot of conversation right now about violence against women in rap. Is that line supposed to be a provocative thing?
Playboi Carti: Wait, what'd I say?
"Watch me sock your bitch. Watch me thrash that bitch." That's what I heard, and what I read on Genius, which could be wrong.
Playboi Carti: Yeah. Genius might have it wrong, but I most definitely said "Watch me smash that bitch." Smash means having sex. Just having sex in an aggressive way. I'm definitely not with that hitting women, none of that bro. That's crazy. I'm most definitely talking about having sex. I've been using the word smash since Ethereal. Atlanta lingo. "Thrash," it's like what does thrash mean? You skate? Thrash, having sex. I don't know if that means something else... smash is sex.
Tell me about your style - do you have specific influences or is it all just instinct?
Playboi Carti: Instinct, bro. I definitely have icons, but what happens when you overdo that? You know what I'm saying. The drip is in you. Be yourself. It's in you. Don't overdo the drip. It's embarrassing. Be yourself. I look at shit like when I'm in New York, bro there's so much going on here, the amount of stuff you get off people. Everything affects it. Everything that's going on in the world today. How I feel this week. The weather. All that affects my fashion. I'm feeling good, I might wear some dazzley shit.

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Lot of musicians appreciate nice clothes. Playboi Carti loves them, truly, madly, deeply. He shows up to the photoshoot with several suitcases of his own treasured pieces. Everything comes with a story. A patchwork brown leather jacket? Custom VLONE, he assures me.

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https://www.billboard.com/articles/news/magazine-feature/7526490/grailed-online-mens-fashion-shop

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“Sustainable justice” may be defined as criminal laws and criminal justice institutions, policies, and practices that achieve justice in the present without compromising the ability of future generations to have the benefits of a just society.

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"A very resilient and easy-to-grow plant, hemp can renew up to 3 times per year, making it the most sustainable plant. Hemp is the most durable natural fiber. Very similar to linen in texture, clothes made from hemp are very light, but 10 times stronger than cotton."

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Our editors curate highly rated brands that are first assessed by our rigorous ratings system. Buying through our links may earn us a commission-supporting the work we do. Hemp fabric has undergone an image transformation in recent years, as shoppers and brands alike are learning of its versatility, strength, and potential sustainability. Learn more.
Hemp on the high ground

Hemp is the sober cousin of marijuana, and industrial hemp contains only a tiny amount of the psychoactive component of cannabis, so the only high you'll get from hemp fabric is the moral high-ground you'll stand on knowing you're wearing a more sustainable fabric.

In fact, industrial hemp is the fashion equivalent of the boring sibling who wants to stay home every weekend and knit socks for fun. But despite its boring properties, hemp's association with cannabis has copped it a bad rep over the years.

It also doesn't help that hemp clothing has been historically associated with baggy grunge-style clothing in khaki hues. Not that there's anything wrong with hippy clothing if that's the goal, but the trend certainly hasn't done much to improve hemp's image among the general populace.

But hemp has started to redeem its image in recent years, and its potential is undeniable. The environmental benefits of hemp cultivation, combined with its durable characteristics as a fabric, mean it can feature in clothing that both feels and looks great, by even the highest of standards.

So what is hemp?

Hemp has a very long history of being used as a fibre. In fact, it has been cultivated for thousands of years and on almost every continent. It has been used in clothing, ropes, and sails. Rumour has it that the word "canvas" is derived from "cannabis".

Hemp is a type of bast fibre which means it's one of a number of plant-based fibres derived from the stems of plants such as flax (where linen comes from), jute, and stinging nettle. The fabric has various natural advantages such as keeping you warm in winter, cool in summer, and even protecting you from UV rays.

The fibre produced from pure hemp is similar to linen in texture. It can also be blended with other plant-based fibres to create fabrics with the durability of hemp and the softness of cotton or bamboo. Extremely versatile, materials produced from hemp fibres can be used for a variety of fabrics, "from jersey to denim to hessian to canvas", according to Textile Exchange.

But why all the fuss about the little green leaf? Is it really any different to its alternatives?

What makes hemp fabric a more sustainable option?

It's no coincidence that hemp bears the nickname weed. A densely and quickly growing plant, hemp literally chokes out any competing plants. This means harsh chemical herbicides aren't necessary. Hemp also naturally reduces pests, so no pesticides are usually needed. Amazingly, it also returns 60-70% of the nutrients it takes from the soil. As Textile Exchange points out, since hemp plants have deep root systems, soil quality is replenished, which in turn captures carbon from the atmosphere.

Not only is hemp gentle on the earth, it also requires very little water, especially when compared to cotton, which, according to Slate uses "about 50% more water per season than hemp." But that's not all. According to the same article, "when you add processing into the equation, cotton uses more than four times as much water as hemp."

Hemp also requires a relatively small amount of land to cultivate. According to the Guide to Sustainable Textiles, this means it can produce up to double the fibre yield per hectare than cotton. It also makes a great addition to crop rotations throughout the year for farmers.

However, it's important to be aware that hemp does not always mean organic, and many farmers still use environmentally damaging fertiliser. When going for hemp, make sure it's organic and thoroughly study the brand you're considering buying from.

So from an environmental perspective, the benefits of hemp are pretty clear. But how does it compare once we start processing the raw product into a fabric?

How is hemp turned into a fabric?

Hemp fabric is made from the long strands of fibre that make up the stalk of the plant. These fibres are separated from the bark through a process called "retting." These fibres are then spun together to produce a continuous thread that can be woven into a fabric. The processing methods for hemp were originally developed in the early 1900s, and are only now being updated and expanded to meet rising demand.

The various stages of the process can be done organically through a mechanical process that requires no chemicals. However, many companies now produce hemp fabric chemically, in a process that is much more intensive on the environment, but faster and cheaper to create. Often you can tell that a hemp fabric has gone through this intensive process if it is labelled as "hemp viscose", which normally involves the same harmful processing with toxic chemicals as regular viscose. Some companies may use the less impactful lyocell process, so it is worth double checking before purchasing something made of hemp.

Cost of production is another factor to consider, says Textile Exchange. Since hemp is bulky, transporting it to processing centres can be "expensive and energy-intensive". Shorter, localised supply chains are one possible solution here.

The impact of the fabric doesn't just stop once it has been woven, either. Once the fabric has been created, it may be dyed, which again can result in various environmental outcomes, depending on the technique used.

So the production phase is a bit less clear-cut. Although hemp is a more eco-friendly crop to grow, we still need to be sure that the process being used to turn the plant into a fabric is lower-impact. Producers have a responsibility to ensure their manufacturing process considers the environment, workers, and consumers, along with profitability.

So, what's the verdict?

The good news is that hemp generally constitutes a more sustainable, lower-impact crop that can be converted into fabric responsibly. It's important to make sure, however, that companies are not just greenwashing their hemp. Wondering where to start looking?

Check out these brands using hemp, rated "Good" or "Great" in the Good On You directory:

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Material Guide: How Sustainable Is Hemp Fabric? - Good On You

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Hemp fabric has gained traction as a more sustainable fabric option, but how does it impact the planet and does it deserve a spot in your wardrobe?

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Social Sustainability is a process or framework that promotes wellbeing within an organisation's own members while also supporting the ability of future generations to maintain a healthy community.

“Social sustainability occurs when the formal and informal processes; systems; structures; and relationships actively support the capacity of current and future generations to create healthy and livable communities. Socially sustainable communities are equitable, diverse, connected and democratic and provide a good quality of life.” – WACOSS, Western Australia Council of Social Services

Social sustainability is “a process for creating sustainable successful places that promote wellbeing, by understanding what people need from the places they live and work. Social sustainability combines design of the physical realm with design of the social world – infrastructure to support social and cultural life, social amenities, systems for citizen engagement, and space for people and places to evolve.” – Social Life, a UK based social enterprise specializing in place based innovation

“The ability of a community to develop processes and structures which not only meet the needs of its current members but also support the ability of future generations to maintain a healthy community.” – Business Dictionary

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What Is Hemp Fabric?

Hemp fabric is a type of textile that is made using fibers from the stalks of the Cannabis sativa plant. This plant has been recognized as a source of extraordinarily tensile and durable textile fibers for millennia, but the psychoactive qualities of Cannabis sativa have recently made it harder for farmers to produce this immensely beneficial crop.

Over thousands of years, Cannabis sativa has been bred for two distinct purposes. On the one hand, many generations of cultivators of this plant have selectively bred it to be high in tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and other psychoactive chemical constituents called cannabinoids. On the other hand, other cultivators have consistently bred Cannabis sativa to produce stronger and better fibers and have purposefully reduced the levels of psychoactive cannabinoids produced by their crops.

As a result, two distinct strains of Cannabis sativa have emerged. It's a myth that hemp is made from the male Cannabis sativa plant and psychoactive marijuana is made from the female plant; in fact, the majority of hemp harvests around the world are from female plants. However, female Cannabis sativa plants that have been bred for textile purposes are very low in THC, and they do not generally have pronounced, sticky buds.

Organic hemp fabrics

The stalks of the hemp plant consist of two layers: The outer layer is formed from rope-like bast fibers, and the inner layer consists of a woody pith. Only the outer layer of the Cannabis sativa stalk is used for textile purposes; the inner, woody layer is commonly used for fuel, building materials, and animal bedding.

Once the outer layer of bast fibers is stripped from the hemp plant, it can be processed and made into rope or yarn. Hemp rope is so strong that it was once the premier choice for rigging and sails on maritime vessels, and it remains renowned as an excellent material for clothing that surpasses cotton and synthetic textiles by most metrics.

However, since much legislation around the world doesn't make a distinction between THC-rich marijuana and hemp, which has practically no THC, the global economy doesn't take advantage of the benefits of hemp to the degree that it could. Instead, people who don't understand what hemp is stigmatize it as a drug. However, more and more countries are embracing the mainstream cultivation of industrial hemp, which indicates that the modern renaissance of hemp fabric is nearing its zenith.

Once it is processed into fabric, hemp is has a similar texture to cotton, but it also feels somewhat like canvas. Hemp fabric is not susceptible to shrinkage, and it is highly resistant to pilling. Since fibers from this plant are long and sturdy, hemp fabric is very soft, but it is also highly durable; while a typical cotton T-shirt lasts 10 years at the most, a hemp T-shirt may last double or triple that time. Some estimates suggest that hemp fabric is three times stronger than cotton fabric.

Hemp Fabric Qualities

In addition, hemp is a lightweight fabric, which means that it is highly breathable, and it also effectively facilitates the passage of moisture from the skin to the atmosphere, so it is ideal for hot climates. It is easy to dye this type of fabric, and it is highly resistant to mold, mildew, and potentially harmful microbes.

Hemp fabric softens with each washing, and its fibers don't degrade even after dozens of washings. Since it's also relatively easy to produce organic hemp fabric sustainably, this textile is practically ideal for clothing.

How Is Hemp Fabric Made?

As a crop, hemp grows well in mild climates with high humidity, and Cannabis sativa plants are ready usually ready for harvest in mid-August in North America. Most plants used for hemp fabric are harvested with a special machine, and these plants are then allowed to rett in the field for 4-6 weeks, which naturally facilitates pectin removal via exposure to the elements.

Next, these hemp stalks are made into bales like hay, and then breakers or a hammermill are used to separate the fibrous outer section of the plant from its woody core. The separated bast fibers are then carded into strands, and they are cleaned to remove impurities. Past this point, manufacturers may use pulping to produce paper products, matting to make mats and fleeces, or steam explosion to render raw hemp into a weavable fiber. Once the steam explosion process is complete, hemp is ready to be spun into yarn and woven into textiles.

At this stage, the same processes that are used to make other fabrics are used to make hemp fabric. Yarn made from this substance is woven into tight fabrics, and these fabrics may be used for a variety of consumer purposes.

How Is Hemp Fabric Used?

The primary use of hemp fabric is apparel. In modern history, this type of fabric was originally mainly prized as a novelty item for individuals who were enthusiastic about cannabis in general. While hemp fabric is still highly popular in the cannabis subculture, there are now plenty of people around the world who like this fabric for its beneficial qualities rather than its relationship to marijuana.

Examples of garments commonly made with hemp include dresses, skirts, pants, jackets, T-shirts, hoodies, and clothing for children. In particular, this type of fabric is highly popular for T-shirts since it is resistant to wear and tear. Most cotton T-shirts start to warp, shrink, or fall apart after comparably few washes, but hemp T-shirts retain their shape and integrity for years and years.

In addition, this type of fabric may also be used in a variety of hemp textiles. Again, home textiles made from this substance are more popular among marijuana enthusiasts, but using hemp fabric for tablecloths, upholstery, and dish towels is also becoming more common.

Hemp fabric is particularly popular for use in towels due to its high absorbency and durability. While some consumers may choose to use hemp bed sheets, one of the minor detractors of this fabric is that it isn't quite as soft as cotton with high thread counts, which means it may not be incredibly comfortable to sleep with this fabric in direct contact with your skin. On the other hand, hemp fabric's incredible durability makes it a great substance to use with blankets and duvets.

While some hemp fabric purists may choose to use textile products that are made with 100 percent hemp, it is also common to mix this type of fabric with other textiles. For instance, blends of cotton and hemp are popular, and it's also common to find this textile blended with silk. Blending hemp with other fabrics can make this textile softer while remaining durable.

Where Is Hemp Fabric Produced?

China produces approximately 70 percent of the world's output of this textile. However, due to lax labor laws and environmental regulations, it's unclear whether hemp made in this country is environmentally sustainable or non-toxic. In addition, only a small portion of the hemp produced in China is made into fabric; the vast majority is made into fuel, paper, or other industrial products.

France is the next largest producer of this crop followed by Austria, Chile, and the United Kingdom. In all, over 30 countries around the world produce industrial hemp, and production of this crop in the United States is also on the upswing.

The 2014 federal farm bill permitted cultivation of industrial hemp for research purposes on the federal level in the United States, and more and more states are taking matters in their own hands and growing this crop for commercial purposes without the explicit permission of the federal government. In most cases, the states pursuing this agricultural endeavor are those that have also legalized the use of recreational marijuana.

Patagonia Men's Iron Forge Hemp

While many changes have occurred in the arena of hemp cultivation in modern times, this plant has been an integral part of human agricultural endeavors since before the dawn of civilization. It's believed that this crop has been cultivated for medicinal purposes for at least 10,000 years, which means that it was one of the first plants to be cultivated by human beings.

However, the development of hemp fabric did not occur until the beginning of the Iron Age. It was, on the contrary, the psychoactive and medicinal properties of this plant that caused its cultivation to spread across Europe and Asia. With the dawn of the colonial era, hemp was brought to the Americas, and it was successfully cultivated in Chile as early as the 16th century.

Notable figures in American history such as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and Andrew Jackson were all cultivators of hemp for industrial purposes, and it wasn't until the 1930s that the cultivation of this crop became stigmatized in the United States. It's possible that major producers of paper and synthetic fabrics in America feared this textile's competitive edge and unjustly tied this fabric to the intoxicant marijuana to make its cultivation taboo.

How Much Does Hemp Fabric Cost?

Producing hemp fabric does not inherently cost more than producing cotton, but a number of market factors have driven up the cost of this fabric. For instance, cotton is produced on a much larger scale than hemp, which means that it is cheaper per volume. In addition, since hemp fabric is something of a novelty at this time, some retailers charge unreasonably inflated prices for this textile.

Handmade backpack by hemp fabric

Ironically, producing hemp fibers is actually simpler and more efficient than producing cotton, and logic dictates that this factor would drive the cost of hemp fabric lower than cotton fabric. Until legislation regarding this textile becomes more reasonable and it is accepted as a common alternative to cotton, however, this unreasonable price discrepancy will likely persist.

What Different Types of Hemp Fabric Are There?

Adidas Hemp Shoes

There is only one major variety of hemp fabric. While the quality, feel, and texture of this fabric may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, the same basic process is used to make hemp fabric around the world. The resulting fabric is stronger than cotton, softer than canvas, and is durable enough to last for decades.

How Does Hemp Fabric Impact the Environment?

The production of this fabric is inherently environmentally sustainable as is evidenced by the fact that human beings have produced hemp fabric for thousands of years without incurring any major ecological calamities. However, as hemp fabric continues to be produced on a larger and larger scale, it's unclear whether or not all producers of this fabric follow the same sustainable cultivation and manufacturing processes that are necessary to keep the production of hemp fabric ecologically sound.

In most cases, a landmark is referenced as an authority on the subject of hemp fabric's environmental sustainability. Researchers noted that the production of this substance requires less land than cotton, and it also releases less toxic substances into the soil and the wider ecosystem.

Hemp is also considered to be a carbon negative raw material, which means that it absorbs more carbon than it produces. Production of this crop requires very few pesticides, and it does not require any herbicides. On the other hand, it's been indicated that producing hemp may require more nitrogen than growing cotton.

Hemp Fabric Certifications Available

Since new legislation was passed regarding industrial hemp in 2016, it's now possible to have this crop certified as organic by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). It's also possible to have this plant certified as organic in the European Union, and there are a couple of different independent organizations that certify hemp fabric once it has been fully processed.

For instance, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) only certifies fabrics that are at least 70 percent organic, and all dyes and other materials used in a fabric must also meet strict environmental standards to receive certification from GOTS. Another organization called Ecocert only certifies hemp fabric with its coveted OCS 100 logo when it contains at least 95 percent organic components.

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What is Hemp Fabric: Properties, How its Made and Where

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Hemp fabric is a type of textile that is made using fibers from the stalks of the Cannabis sativa plant. This plant has been recognized as a source of extraordinarily tensile and durable textile fibers for millennia, but the psychoactive qualities of Cannabis sativa have recently made it harder for farmers to produce this immensely beneficial crop.

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While 2017 was chock-full of releases from hip-hop's upper echelon, it was also the year hip-hop and R&B upstarts dominated the charts. On Tuesday (Nov. 14), Forbes returned to recognize 30 of music's most promising stars with the release of their annual 30 Under 30 list.

The list shines a spotlight on the young power players dominating in their respective fields. For the music category, 30 Under 30 alums Skylar Grey (singer/songwriter) and Kevin Olusola (member of pop group Pentatonix), as well as music vet Bob Moczydlowsky, selected the artists on the list.

Breakout artists Cardi B (25), Playboi Carti (22), H.E.R (20), SZA (28) and Khalid (19) land on the list, among others. And deservedly so. Cardi notched her first-ever Billboard Hot 100 No. 1 and earned a platinum plaque with "Bodak Yellow." SZA's debut album CTRL spawned two platinum singles and debuted at No. 3 on the Billboard 200.

Forbes also recognized the producers and engineers responsible for crafting some of the year's biggest hits like Wondagurl (21), who had a hand in Big Sean's album I Decided as well as Lil Yachty's Teenage Emotions, and Kesha Lee (29), who's behind Migos' "Bad & Boujee."

Other artists featured on the list include Travis Scott (26), Young Thug (26), Lil Uzi Vert (23), Migos and Young M.A (25).

Check out the full list here.

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Playboi Carti, Cardi B, SZA, H.E.R., Khalid & More Featured on Forbes' 30 Under 30 List

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While 2017 was chock-full of releases from hip-hop's upper echelon, it was also the year hip-hop and R&B upstarts dominated the charts. On Tuesday (Nov. 14), Forbes returned to recognize 30 of music's most promising stars with the release of their annual 30 Under 30 list.

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HOW SONGS AFFECT SALES OF FASHION BRANDS WITH VOCAL PROMOTION

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HOW SONGS AFFECT SALES OF FASHION BRANDS WITH VOCAL PROMOTION

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You know Travis Scott as one of the buzziest musicians in today's rap scene. If not, then you definitely know him as, potentially, Kylie Jenner's baby daddy. But what you may not know is that Scott is a huge fan of cult-favorite denim brand Ksubi (pronounced soo-bee)-so much so that when the beloved Australian label opened a store on La Brea in West Hollywood about a year ago, Scott was one of the first customers to shop the selection.

"He pulled up out front, bought three pairs of Ksubi jeans and left," says Craig King, the CEO of Ksubi. "We got in contact and offered to dress when for Coachella, and one thing led to another."

What it led to, amazingly enough, was a 10-piece Ksubi x Travis Scott capsule collection, comprising denim, tees, hoodies, and bombers, which is slated to drop Oct. 12. There are ripped jeans slashed down the legs, worn-in tees tagged with words like, "Birds of the Air" or "Eternal," and graphic-bearing hoodies, all with Scott's famous eagle and flaming dollar motifs scattered throughout (Scott has already been seen in the denim jacket and jeans). In short, it's a collaboration that fuses Scott's eye for streetwear with the denim brand's commitment to originality and creativity.

"With Ksubi, I was able to go with the good vibe and put my personality into this collaboration," Scott tells Billboard. "It's a dope brand I've been wearing it for a while."

The starting point for the collection was the concept of La Flame (a Travis Scott brainchild) 'taking over Ksubi," King explains. "This was a concept we both loved but Travis added elements like the double pocket and vibes from his own aesthetic that we hadn't thought of, "he continues. "Travis mixes up [his style] a lot but always has a handle on hard edged street, which is a space we like to play in. Whatever he wears he always looks like 'him,' which is cool."

Ksubi was founded by Gareth Moody, Dan Single, and George Gorrow in 1999 to fulfill a desire for jeans with a good fit. Today, Ksubi has evolved to become one of the most in-demand denim brands in the world, specifically among musicians. And the love runs deep, too. Rappers like Lil Uzi Vert, Playboi Carti, A$AP Ferg, and XXXTENTACION, have all given shout-outs to their Ksubis in songs. So how did that happen?

"Did Ksubi drift into rap's shipping lane or did rap's aesthetic drift into Ksubi's? We aren't entirely sure," King confesses, but goes on to credit the founders for creating a truly original brand that resonated with consumers on a global scale. "We do feel Ksubi has always maintained a certain street presence, which lends itself to contemporary rap style, but we have also had amazing support from the likes of Travis, A$AP Rocky, and The Weeknd. No doubt rap is the most influential music in pop culture and fashion. Travis, along with a handful of others, is leading that influence, so we wanted to have 'a moment' with his fans and ours where we brought DNA from the two together."
The Ksubi x Travis Scott collection ($120 to $450) will be available in stores and online Oct. 12 at General Pants Co, Ksubi, Kith, and more.

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How Ksubi Became the Denim Brand All the Stars Are Rapping About

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You know Travis Scott as one of the buzziest musicians in today's rap scene. If not, then you definitely know him as, potentially, Kylie Jenner's baby daddy.

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Video shot in an American prison, shows the struggles and daily life men in the american prison system face

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Playboi Carti - wokeuplikethis* ft. Lil Uzi Vert

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Italy would be

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LONDON, United Kingdom - In recent days, Patagonia has been making headlines for its effort to protect Bears Ears National Monument in Utah from being developed for oil and gas. In an open letter, the outdoor apparel brand's founder, Yvon Chouinard, voiced his opposition to Utah governor Gary Herbert's plan to reverse recent protections brought in by outgoing US President Barack Obama.

Patagonia's position on such issues is a reflection of the deeply-held philosophy of environmental responsibility embodied by Chouinard, who famously wrote "Let My People Go Surfing" - a manifesto that encapsulates his laid-back approach to life and has helped him build a multimillion dollar business.

The concept at the very heart of Patagonia's business is to manufacture, repair and recycle products in order that they last a lifetime, and the reason why the company is to be presented with the Accenture Strategy Award for Circular Economy Multinational at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland, this week. To coincide with the award, the company is announcing the launch of an e-commerce platform for its Worn Wear initiative, which will sell used Patagonia clothing and equipment online, sourced from its customers.

The so-called circular economy, when applied to fashion, is a system whereby everything in the process of making garments - including the garments themselves - is re-used or recycled, a rejection of the more traditional "take, make and dispose" model, in which products are cheaply made, consumed voraciously, then disposed.

"The whole idea of [the circular economy] is creating no waste," says Julie Gilhart, a creative business consultant who counts Amazon and LVMH among her clients and has worked with the CFDA to establish a sustainability initiative. "There should be no end of life of anything. Nothing should just sit in landfill."

Patagonia applies these principles by carefully thinking through each step of the process, says Rose Marcario, chief executive of Patagonia. "It's really taking end to end responsibility for the product."

There should be no end of life of anything. Nothing should just sit in landfill.

By designing durable products that can be repaired, Patagonia ensures that garments stay in use for as long as possible, something the brand encourages by providing a lifetime guarantee for all of its wares. If a product can no longer be repaired, Patagonia will recycle it and reimburse the customer with gift vouchers for the value of the item.

Patagonia has also reduced its environmental impact in its sourcing. In 1993, the company devised a fleece material made from plastic bottles - then shared its knowledge with other companies in a bid to encourage use of the recycled textile.

"We are living in a world where there are going to be fewer resources, and there won't always be a wealth of virgin materials. So you have to start working now to figure out how you are going to address those issues as a brand," says Marcario.

"If a product is totally worn out, we are going to take it and recycle it. If it needs to be repaired, we are going to have a mechanism to repair it. If it can be resold but they don't want it any more, there's a mechanism to do that," she adds.

While Patagonia declined to share the cost of the company's investment into sustainable, circular practices, Marcario says developing the company's current business model has been a decades-long process and one that relies on communicating its message effectively with its consumers.

"For us, we engage with our customers because it's a relationship. They need to understand that, as a brand, we are invested in this responsibility for the product from end to end and we are going to help them in each stage of the process."

Brands that don't face these realities of the true cost of apparel and fast fashion, I think they will be left behind.

Patagonia's circular business model is one that many fashion companies can learn from. Indeed, if they don't, it could cost them. "I think the real cost to business is possibly your customer, because if [a company is] not addressing it, they are not innovating," Gilhart says. "For big companies to change the way they speak and to change some of the ways they do things, there is risk involved ... but the greatest risk is not being relevant."

As a privately-held company, Patagonia has been able to implement circular practices to its business model without the pressure to report quarterly sales increases to appease shareholders, an expectation faced by many publicly-traded companies. However, that hasn't stopped Patagonia from achieving an estimated $710 million in sales, 1 percent of which it donates to hundreds of environmental organisations each year. Since 1985, the company has donated $78 million to environmental causes as a way to compensate for its impact on the environment.

As more consumers question brands' environmental policies, many companies are being forced to consider a more sustainable operating model.

In 2013, for instance, H&M launched a global garment collection initiative, which aims to address the issue of used clothing waste by re-purposing garments for re-wear, re-use or recycling. It has gathered more than 32,000 tonnes of garments since its launch. It is also working on new technologies to recycle clothes from different textile blends into new clothes.

Likewise, Kering, which owns , Bottega Veneta and Puma, recently published the results of its sustainability report addressing how it has tackled its own targets, with an emphasis on investing in new materials.

"There is a lot of innovation in this space," says Marcario. "We don't have to all reinvent the wheel, but brands that don't face these realities of the true cost of apparel and fast fashion, I think they will be left behind."
Related Articles: Sustainability Is Out, Responsible Innovation Is In How can the fashion industry become more sustainable? Just Fix It: How Nike Learned to Embrace Sustainability

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LONDON, United Kingdom - In recent days, Patagonia has been making headlines for its effort to protect Bears Ears National Monument in Utah from being developed for oil and gas. In an open letter, the outdoor apparel brand's founder, Yvon Chouinard, voiced his opposition to Utah governor Gary Herbert's plan to reverse recent protections brought in by outgoing US President Barack Obama.

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