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DIY: How to make a 5 Panel | From Scratch #4

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{LIAM} How to make a mini bridal top hat

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LIAM} Mini Bridal Top hat Pattern Page1/2: http://youtiquebridal.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/liam-mini-top-hat-page-1-of-2.pdf {LIAM} Mini Bridal Top Hat Pattern Page2/2: http://youtiquebridal.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/liam-mini-top-hat-page-2-of-2.pdf This is a tutorial on how to make an easy diy mini bridal top hat. This was created for a class I will be teaching at Joann Fabrics and crafts.

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Slouchy Beanie

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fabrics, patterns, notions, & inspiration ~ build your handmade wardrobe

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This post is written by Teresa of Dandelion Drift.

Today I'm here to help you make your own comfy hat with this free slouchy beanie sewing pattern for babies, kids, and adults!

Has it started to get cold by you guys? It's cold here, in fact, today I'm wearing my boots and sweater, but cold is a little relative. It's in the 60s here (in Florida) and that means I am freezing! But it also means I can do a little sewing for this cooler weather...woot! And both of my kids are in need of some new cold weather clothes!

I'm sure you all remember this hat from when Kahlin wore it for Project Run and Play (where Rachael showed off all of her slow sewing skills with a lot of hand stitching and Alabama Chanin). Want to know how to make one of your own? Rachael has put together a great free pattern for a slouchy beanie, and I'll show you how easy it is to make!

Pattern notes:

All seams are 1/2 inch.

This pattern is to be used with knit fabric (fabric with stretch).

Use the stretch stitch on your sewing machine...mine looks like a lightning bolt.

When printing out your pattern, make sure you have the box that says no scaling checked.

There are just two pages, tape them together and you are about ready to sew!

Instructions:

1. Measure the circumference of the head you are sewing for and choose the corresponding size. (click here to download the slouchy beanie pdf pattern)

2. With the fabric folded in half, cut out two pattern pieces.

3. Right sides together, stitch the long ends of the beanie (don't forget to use the stretch stitch).

4. Press seams open. Line up the two side seams in the middle of your hat. Stitch the top opening closed, with the two side seams matched in the middle (refer to the picture).

5. Turn the beanie right side out. It should look a little strange with the points at the top, but don't worry, that's correct. Now move your hat so that the side seams are again on the side. Grab one of the points, and bring it tot he middle. Grab the other point and bring it to the middle. Stitch back and forth, just over that middle point to tack the points down.

6. Ready for the end? Turn under the bottom 1/2 inch and then turn under again 1/2 inch. Stitch this hem in place, and you are done! (Don't forget to use your stretch stitch) Alternately, you can leave the bottom edge un-hemmed - just make sure that your side seams are secured.

Pretty easy, huh? The gray hat I made with a cut up t shirt. And the black polka dot hat is made with reversible knit fabric from Joann's {*affiliate link}.

I can't wait to see the beanies that you start stitching!

P.S. Recognize that cute skirt Sweet Pea is wearing? It's the alder skirt (with shorts underneath... tutorial here).

*this post contains affiliate links, which means that imagine gnats receives financial compensation for any sales made through these links. read the imagine gnats full advertising and disclosures policies here.

Related

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This post is written by Teresa of Dandelion Drift. Today I'm here to help you make your own comfy hat with this free slouchy beanie sewing pattern for babies, kids, and adults! Has it started to get cold by you guys? It's cold here, in fact, today I'm wearing my boots and sweater, but cold is a little relative.

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As winter settles in, fight off the cold by layering up with wool accessories. A cozy hat is the best way to keep your ears warm and hair dry in the snow. Luckily you don't have to be a knitter to make a wool beanie. Save some time and sew one yourself! Using old sweaters as fabric, you can make multiple hats in no time.

Follow along with this tutorial on how to draft and sew a fitted beanie.

Supplies needed:

Tracing paper and pencil or marker

Ruler

Adult-sized sweater. Make sure the sweater is stretchy and not too scratchy or thick. If you don't want to cut into an existing sweater, you can also use sweater knit, fleece, wool jersey, or double knit fabric. You will need about 3/4 yard.

Matching thread

Sewing machine or serger

Pattern Instructions:

This tutorial is for making a fitted hat for an adult with an average-sized head. You can easily adjust the width and height of the hat after understanding the basic pattern and construction method. Step 1. On some tracing or pattern paper, draw a straight line that is 10 inches long. In the middle of this line, connect a perpendicular line that is 9 inches long total. Mark with a small dot where the six inch mark is. Step 2. At the two ends of the 10 inch line, draw two perpendicular lines that are each 4 inches long. Connect the top of the 9 inch line to the tops of these 4 inch lines with a sloping curve. You may use a French curve for this part, or trace the top of an existing beanie if that helps. Blend the curve where it meets the straight lines so you don't have any points. Step 3. At the top of the curve, mark 1/2″ on either side of that 9 inch line you drew. Connect those points to the 6 inch mark to form a wedge. Step 4. Cut out your pattern, including that wedge, but do NOT cut off the bottom 10 inch line yet. Step 5. Fold your cut pattern along the 10 inch line and flatten. Trace the shape to complete the other half of your pattern piece. Step 6. Cut out your weird-looking pattern! Label that 10 inch mark as the fold line, and remind yourself that you will need to cut two of this piece on your actual fabric.

Sewing Instructions:

Step 1. Prep your fabric. If you are using a sweater as your fabric, it helps to cut open the side seams and shoulder seams so the fabric lays flat. You can keep the layers together, too, since you will eventually cut two pieces from your pattern. However, I find that I like to cut one piece at a time to ensure the fabric is on grain and that I don't accidentally include the sweater neckline or other seams in my pieces. You may need to remove the ribbing at the bottom of the sweater to help the body of the sweater lay flat. Step 2. Lay the pattern piece on your fabric. The width of the pattern needs to align with the maximum direction of stretch of the fabric (which, in the case of a sweater, is across the body). The length of the pattern will align with the grainline, or the length of the sweater. Step 3. Cut out two pieces. Step 4. Place the two pieces right sides together and sew the curved edges together at 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving the wedges open. You can use a serger for this part or a narrow zig zag stitch. This is forming the side seams of the hat. Step 5. Turn the hat right sides out through one of the open ends. Step 6. Squish one half of the hat inside the other so the hat is doubled up. Step 7. Align the raw edges of the wedges together at the top of the hat. You will have four layers of fabric that need to be sewn, so it may help to first baste those layers together at the seam intersection to make sure they perfectly match up. Step 8. Serge or sew these edges together, being careful to sew a tapered seam that blends in with the curve of the hat. Trim threads. Step 9. Turn the hat right side out and pop it on your head. The long seams will sit on the sides of your head, and the shorter seams will lay on the top front and top back of your head. You're done! For your next versions, you can lengthen the pattern piece if you want to be able to fold up the brim of the hat or if you want a slouchier style. You can also shorten and narrow the pattern piece to make a child's hat. What else can you make from an old wool sweater?

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As winter settles in, fight off the cold by layering up with wool accessories. A cozy hat is the best way to keep your ears warm and hair dry in the snow. Luckily you don't have to be a knitter to make a wool beanie. Save some time and sew one yourself!

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Slouchy Beany

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fabrics, patterns, notions, & inspiration ~ build your handmade wardrobe

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This post is written by Teresa of Dandelion Drift.

Today I'm here to help you make your own comfy hat with this free slouchy beanie sewing pattern for babies, kids, and adults!

Has it started to get cold by you guys? It's cold here, in fact, today I'm wearing my boots and sweater, but cold is a little relative. It's in the 60s here (in Florida) and that means I am freezing! But it also means I can do a little sewing for this cooler weather...woot! And both of my kids are in need of some new cold weather clothes!

I'm sure you all remember this hat from when Kahlin wore it for Project Run and Play (where Rachael showed off all of her slow sewing skills with a lot of hand stitching and Alabama Chanin). Want to know how to make one of your own? Rachael has put together a great free pattern for a slouchy beanie, and I'll show you how easy it is to make!

Pattern notes:

All seams are 1/2 inch.

This pattern is to be used with knit fabric (fabric with stretch).

Use the stretch stitch on your sewing machine...mine looks like a lightning bolt.

When printing out your pattern, make sure you have the box that says no scaling checked.

There are just two pages, tape them together and you are about ready to sew!

Instructions:

1. Measure the circumference of the head you are sewing for and choose the corresponding size. (click here to download the slouchy beanie pdf pattern)

2. With the fabric folded in half, cut out two pattern pieces.

3. Right sides together, stitch the long ends of the beanie (don't forget to use the stretch stitch).

4. Press seams open. Line up the two side seams in the middle of your hat. Stitch the top opening closed, with the two side seams matched in the middle (refer to the picture).

5. Turn the beanie right side out. It should look a little strange with the points at the top, but don't worry, that's correct. Now move your hat so that the side seams are again on the side. Grab one of the points, and bring it tot he middle. Grab the other point and bring it to the middle. Stitch back and forth, just over that middle point to tack the points down.

6. Ready for the end? Turn under the bottom 1/2 inch and then turn under again 1/2 inch. Stitch this hem in place, and you are done! (Don't forget to use your stretch stitch) Alternately, you can leave the bottom edge un-hemmed - just make sure that your side seams are secured.

Pretty easy, huh? The gray hat I made with a cut up t shirt. And the black polka dot hat is made with reversible knit fabric from Joann's {*affiliate link}.

I can't wait to see the beanies that you start stitching!

P.S. Recognize that cute skirt Sweet Pea is wearing? It's the alder skirt (with shorts underneath... tutorial here).

*this post contains affiliate links, which means that imagine gnats receives financial compensation for any sales made through these links. read the imagine gnats full advertising and disclosures policies here.

Related

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This post is written by Teresa of Dandelion Drift. Today I'm here to help you make your own comfy hat with this free slouchy beanie sewing pattern for babies, kids, and adults! Has it started to get cold by you guys? It's cold here, in fact, today I'm wearing my boots and sweater, but cold is a little relative.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cadet-style-cap/

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Viser: http://weallsew.com/how-to-sew-a-womens-or-mens-visor/

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Dill Pickle Hat instructions and Patterns

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*** This pattern is now also available as a kit! The kit includes everything you need to make any of the options for pockets in the pattern, and an assortment of fabrics and colors. Check them out on the "Accessories" page!***
Edited: Now, with photos!
The first batch are courtesy of Lovely Bicycle! 's photostream:

Size Small, large brim, with earflaps, wool coating.

Size medium, summer weight, no earflaps, quilting cotton.

Size large, earflaps, small brim, polar fleece and nylon ripstop.

Size large, earflaps, large brim with plastic stiffener, fleece.

And a few more, including a little of the process:

As we get into the holiday shopping spree season, I thought it would be nice to offer a sewing pattern for a great gift you can make yourself. This cycling cap pattern offers four sizes, two different brim choices, and optional ear flaps, and works great in all different materials from light, summery cotton to warm wool and fleece. It's quick and simple, and the end result is something any cyclist can use more of!

You can also try making it out of old or discarded cycling jerseys or jackets, sheets, shirts, t-shirts, pants, shrunken lightweight sweaters, etc. No stampeding into the mall, since you might not even need to buy anything to make it!
The hat is designed to lie flat with minimal bulk under a helmet, with optional wrap-around ear flaps that are thicker and warmer.

The pattern has two brim options: the larger one is closer in size and shape to that of a baseball cap, the smaller one is more like a typical cycling cap's brim.

This pattern is available here for free for your own personal use, but if you like it, please consider making a donation to the League of American Bicyclists.

If you have questions, put them in the comments to this post so that other people can see them too. Happy sewing!

Pattern files (all except instructions are in PDF format):
Instructions
Top Panel and Hat Band
Pattern pieces in JPEG format, in case the PDFs don't work for you for some reason:
Top Panel and Hat Band

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Pickle Project: Cycling Cap sewing pattern

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This pattern is now also available as a kit! The kit includes everything you need to make any of the options for pockets in the pattern, and an assortment of fabrics and colors. Check them out on the "Accessories" page!*** Edited: Now, with photos! The first batch are courtesy of Lovely Bicycle!

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Kaylee farring

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http://m.instructables.com/id/Beginner-Sewing-Make-a-summer-hat-pattern-from-s/

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Julissa Jaimes T-Shirt hat

http://atsecondstreet.blogspot.com/2010/05/t-shirt-hat.html

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Here is the tutorial for my t-shirt hat from my guest post on Ucreate .

Since soccer started a few weeks ago, I've been wanting a new hat to hide my hair in the morning. I have a few hats already, but they are too dark and heavy for spring. I was thrilled when I came up with this solution and it actually worked.

All you need is an old t-shirt. I've cut several of my husbands ugly free t-shirts up this last week.

First thing you need to do is cut a long strip 4" wide though both layer of the shirt. The length will depend on the circumference of your head + an inch for the seam. I cut mine to be 21-1/2" long. *By cutting through both layers you should have two strips one on top of the other.

Now you have to cut a circle for the top. This involves a little math. Using your circumference you can find the diameter of the circle you'll need to cut.

So for example my circumference was 20.5" if I divide that by PIE the diameter is ∼6.5"(knit stretches a little so it doesn't have to be perfect). I added an inch to that as well for my seams. I drew and cut my 7-1/2" circle using a compass. You could also use a string tied to a pen or find a round object with the same diameter. Again I cut through both layers giving me two rounds, one on top of the other. Once they were cut, I sewed the two together with a 1/4" seam around the edge.

Next I sewed the two ends of my long strip together with a 1/2" seam, creating a very thin tube.

Then I pinned the circle to the top of my of my tube, with the seam on the outside.

I sewed around the top with a 1/2" seam, then flipped it right side out.

I made a pattern for the bill using a hat I already had. You can get the pattern HERE . I cut two layers of the bill and inserted a piece of heavy weight interfacing in between them. I made cut the interfacing to be a little smaller than the bill.

Then I sewed around the edges. I added a few more layers of stitching to make it stronger, and I liked the way it looked.

Next I inserted the bill in between the two layers of the cap. I lined up the middle of the bill with the middle of the font. The bill was about an inch and a half inside the bill when I pinned it in place. *Once it was pinned I looked in the mirror to make sure I liked the length of the bill. You can shorten it or pull it out more till you like it.

Now all that is left to do is sew around the base of the hat.

That's it for the cap. It only took me 30 minutes to make my first one. I consider myself a basic sewer and I had no problems. I love the look of the raw edges and that I didn't have to do any hemming.

For my embellishments I added flowers made with the extra pieces. I cut long strips of the knit about 1-1/2 inch thick. I twisted them and then rolled them like a lollipop.

I sewed them together by hand.

Sometimes I get head aches from wearing a hat to long. This one was so comfortable I was able to wear it all day.

I'm kinda obsessed with making them.

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Here is the tutorial for my t-shirt hat from my guest post on Ucreate . Since soccer started a few weeks ago, I've been wanting a new hat to hide my hair in the morning. I have a few hats already, but they are too dark and heavy for spring.

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Bucket hat!

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Some of us wear our favourite pair of jeans until they literally fall off our bodies. Once you have cut your jeans into shorts, what can you do with the left-over legs? This unisex bucket hat is an eco-chic way to salvage denim scraps which would otherwise end up in landfill.

You will need:

one pair of old jeans

lightweight fabric scraps for lining

sewing machine and thread

sewing machine needle for sewing denim

scissors

iron and ironing board

pins

flexible tape measure

printer and A4 paper

1. Measure the circumference of your head using a flexible tape measure. Choose your size:

small: 54.5cm (21.5″)
medium: 57cm (22.5″)
large: 59.5cm (23.5″)

2. Cut down the seams of your jeans and open them out flat.

3. Download the pattern pieces here: denim-bucket-hat.
Print the pattern out onto paper. Make sure your page size is set to 100%.

4. Fold the denim fabric in half and pin the pattern pieces along the fold.

5. Cut out the fabric.

6. Using the same pattern pieces, cut out your lining fabric.

7. With right sides of denim together, stitch side pieces together with 1.3cm (0.5″) wide seam allowances. Press (iron) seams open flat.

8. With right sides of denim together, stitch brim pieces together with 1.3cm (0.5″) wide seam allowances. Press (iron) seams open flat.

9. With right sides together, pin and stitch denim top piece to the upper side pieces.

10. With right sides together, pin and stitch denim brim pieces to lower side pieces. Avoid lining up the seams so you are not stitching through more than three layers of denim at once.

11. Sew lining pieces together in the same way as the denim.

12. With right sides together, slip lining hat inside denim hat. Pin and stitch denim to lining 1.3cm (0.5″) from edge of brim. Leave a 10cm long opening.

13. Turn hat right-side-out through the opening. Press (iron) this brim seam flat. Slip-stitch opening closed by hand.

14. Top-stitch through all layers around the edge of the brim.

For more free patterns visit our library here.

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Free pattern: denim reversible bucket hat

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Some of us wear our favourite pair of jeans until they literally fall off our bodies. Once you have cut your jeans into shorts, what can you do with the left-over legs? This unisex bucket hat is an eco-chic way to salvage denim scraps which would otherwise end up in landfill.

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Super awesome beanie

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Paper hat?🤓 https://youtu.be/-_uZrfFy6lw

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5 panel

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DIY: How to make a 5 Panel | From Scratch #4

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How to make 5 panel Camp Hat | ProperFit DIY

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PRINTABLE PATTERN available at- http://capsupplyco.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=72 VISIT http://capsupplyco.com for BRIMS, FASTANERS, SNAPS, BUCKLES, SWEATBANDS, and MORE! All the components to make your cap look professional! ProperFit presents: How to make a 5-panel Camp hat/cap instructional video. This is a easy do it yourself(do it your self DIY) sewing project.

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Because it's beanie time...

-Knit beanie
-bit of supple leather
-scissors
-sewing machine/needle and thread
-pen

Nº1
Start out by tracing the beanie with a pen on the back side of the leather. Now put the beanie on, exactly in the position that you would wear it and measure how much of it is sticking out on the top, with me that was only 5 cm. Mark 5 cm from the top of the outline you just drew on the leather. Now put the measuring tape around your head over the bottom fold of the beanie. Divide this measurement by half and mark this next to the outline of the beanie you drew on the leather. Sketch a half circle between these 3 points. Draw two diagonal lines where the lines of the half circle and the ones from the traced beanie meet. (If you look at the pattern I drew, this whole step might make more sense.)

Nº2
Cut out the leather and make two slits on the diagonal lines. Try it out a couple of times and make the darts wider by cutting little bits at a time until they allow the leather to shape like the knit. It is very important that it is a thin and very supple kind of leather. You can also leave the leather in lukewarm water for 30 minutes to make it more bendable.

Nº3
You can sew leather with a small or regular sewing machine if you do it very slowly with a good quality thread. Sew on the leather panel on the top and the sides but let the cutout darts loose so that there is room left for movement. I love that you can see the folds in the fabric in between these cutout triangles.

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Because it's beanie time... -Knit beanie -bit of supple leather -scissors -sewing machine/needle and thread -pen Nº1 Start out by tracing the beanie with a pen on the back side of the leather. Now put the beanie on, exactly in the position that you would wear it and measure how much of it is sticking out on the top, with me that was only 5 cm.

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Whatever the weather, I mostly walk the school run as parking can be problematic. In wind and rain, hoods blow down, so a hat can be the best option for keeping dry. My winter coat is probably best described as being mushroom in colour, and I've been on the look out for a matching hat for ages but not found anything quite right. Simple solution I suppose, knit one. But I don't knit, so simpler solution... sew one!

After rooting through my collection of old jumpers, it took about five minutes (that's after I'd drafted the pattern) to cut it out and sew. What could be easier?

This is what you'll need...

a body panel (front or back will do) from an old woollen jumper

(one panel is roughly big enough to make one Beanie and include the ribbed bottom edge in your measurements)

piece of paper - 20" (horizontally) x 11 1/2" (vertically)

plus a pencil, scissors, pins and your sewing machine (you can sew it by hand but it's much quicker on a machine)

Step 1, Fold the piece of paper in half, and then half again so it's now in quarters. Follow the pattern below for the measurements and shape to cut, cutting through all four layers of paper simultaneously.

Open out your paper pattern to double check it's cut correctly, it should look like this...

Step 2, Fold the paper pattern back in half, and place it on top of the folded (right sides together) jumper panel, lining up both the folded edges and pin to secure. Stretch the jumper out while pinning if need be. Next, cut out the Beanie shape from the jumper, cutting through both layers of fabric. Remove the pattern and re pin just the jumper panel in half.

Step 3, Stitch along edge 1, and then edge 2, but while you are sewing edge 2, stop at the marker, turn the beanie inside out (so it is now actually right sides round), and complete stitching edge 2. This is so when you fold over the ribbed edge, the seam won't show on the outside of the hat.

Step 4, Turn it back so it's inside out again, and re-fold the Beanie so the 2 seams you have just sewn are now central. Pin and sew the last curved seam around the top.

Step 5, Turn the hat right side round, fold over the ribbed edge section and give it a quick press with an iron, and it's all done!

A few tips which may help...

wear the hat with the long seam at the back, shorter seam to the front as it'll look neater

by all means, adjust the pattern to fit your head by making it wider or narrower if it's for a child

you may need to stretch out your jumper panel to fit the pattern, but don't worry about doing this, as knitted fabrics do have a lot of give in them

you can add decoration, a pom pom or a flower and some buttons

I now have one in mushroom, one in blue, brown next I think...

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Whatever the weather, I mostly walk the school run as parking can be problematic. In wind and rain, hoods blow down, so a hat can be the best option for keeping dry. My winter coat is probably best described as being mushroom in colour, and I've been on the look out for a matching hat for ages but not found anything quite right.

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Hey y'all - we're wrapping up menswear sewing month with this tutorial on hats. I'm going to show you how I made this particular hat, but also share a template that will help you draft any kind of hat you want and then sew a hat.

Let's start by talking about the parts of a hat, as shown below. There are really only 3 main parts - the crown, the side band, and the brim.

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And here I have a crown template. When you download it, it looks like this:

It has crown sizes 24 1/2″ all the way down to 19 1/2″. Which means that you could use it for babies up to grown men. But first let's talk about how to use it.

Depending on the hat style, you may want the crown about the same size as the head circumference (like the flat brim hat I made here), slightly smaller than the head circumference (like this rain bucket hat was) or larger than the head circumference (like how you gather in the crown of a chef's hat).

In general, you'll want to measure the person's head and add 1/2″ (this is for the thickness the brim seams will add), then choose the size of the crown based on that. For example, my husband's head measured 22 1/4″, so adding 1/2″ that gave me 22 3/4″, so I went with the 23″ template. BUT that doesn't mean that the crown was 23″ - because of seam allowances. So when measured in 1/2″ (the seam allowance I used) the crown gets smaller. Like the image below.

Another way to determine this is to measure in 1/2″ (or whatever seam allowance you're using) on the template and then look at which circumference that it. In this case, measuring in got me to the 21″ circumference.

Once you have your crown template cut, you can easily draft the rest of the hat. Let's start with the side band. First, determine the side band height you want. In this case I used a height of 4 inches - which would put the hat above my husband's ears. Draw a rectangle that is the height you want by the head circumference plus 1/2″ measurement. Cut this rectangle into 8 pieces, then overlap the top edges enough to equal the seam measurement from the crown of the hat.

For example, I started with a 4″ x 23″ rectangle. Then I overlapped each piece 1/4″ so that the top of my side band was 21″ and the bottom was still 23″. Add seam allowances all around the side band, and you've got your side band piece.

To draft the brim, first you need to decide if you want a flat brim or a shaped brim. In this case I went with flat, and drafting that is as easy as determining the brim width (in this case I started with 5 1/2″ because the hubs said he wanted a really wide brim, but after showing it to him, ended up doing 4 inches as the brim, including the seam allowances. Don't forget to add a seam allowance to the inside of the brim when you cut that circle out.

If you wanted a shaped brim, you would take a pie shaped wedge out of the brim and then close the gap - this would create a brim that would either flip up or flip down, depending on how you sew it in. The bigger the pie slice, the more the brim would angle.

Once your brim is drafted, here's your cut list:

Two brims of main fabric and at least 2 of interfacing

1 side band of each fabric - main, lining and interfacing

1 crown of each fabric - main, lining and interfacing

Heavy duty sew in interfacing is a must with hats to give them body. For this brim I used 4 pieces, sandwiched on top and bottom of the two brim pieces. Sew around the outside edge.

Trim the seam down to 1/4″ or less, then turn the brim right side out.

Press the brim. A point turner ( affiliate link) is helpful for this.

To reinforce the brim even more, I sewed a bunch of lines about 1/2″ apart (except for the two closest to the outside edge those are 1/4″ apart)

Next, sew the side band together at the side seam. I sew the interfacing with the main fabric, and the lining separately.

Pin the side band to the crown. As you can see, the crown is flat at the seam line, but not at the edges. Stitch. Repeat with main fabric crown/side band.

Notch the brim in the seam allowance all around the inside edge.

Pin the brim to the crown/side band assembly. Stitch.

Add the lining into the hat, wrong sides together.

To finish the inside, add ribbon. 1 1/2″ or wider grosgrain or satin ribbon cut to the head circumference plus 1/2″ and seam allowance works best. Sew the ribbon into a loop and then pin it over the raw edge of the hat and lining, so that the ribbon is against the brim. Stitch, then flip the ribbon to the inside of the hat.

Topstitch around the bottom edge of the side band to hold the ribbon in place and you're done.

And there we have it - a hat perfect for mowing the lawn and other outdoor work.

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Hey y'all - we're wrapping up menswear sewing month with this tutorial on hats. I'm going to show you how I made this particular hat, but also share a template that will help you draft any kind of hat you want and then sew a hat.

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Litzy Quintana Morales

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Whatever the weather, I mostly walk the school run as parking can be problematic. In wind and rain, hoods blow down, so a hat can be the best option for keeping dry. My winter coat is probably best described as being mushroom in colour, and I've been on the look out for a matching hat for ages but not found anything quite right. Simple solution I suppose, knit one. But I don't knit, so simpler solution... sew one!

After rooting through my collection of old jumpers, it took about five minutes (that's after I'd drafted the pattern) to cut it out and sew. What could be easier?

This is what you'll need...

a body panel (front or back will do) from an old woollen jumper

(one panel is roughly big enough to make one Beanie and include the ribbed bottom edge in your measurements)

piece of paper - 20" (horizontally) x 11 1/2" (vertically)

plus a pencil, scissors, pins and your sewing machine (you can sew it by hand but it's much quicker on a machine)

Step 1, Fold the piece of paper in half, and then half again so it's now in quarters. Follow the pattern below for the measurements and shape to cut, cutting through all four layers of paper simultaneously.

Open out your paper pattern to double check it's cut correctly, it should look like this...

Step 2, Fold the paper pattern back in half, and place it on top of the folded (right sides together) jumper panel, lining up both the folded edges and pin to secure. Stretch the jumper out while pinning if need be. Next, cut out the Beanie shape from the jumper, cutting through both layers of fabric. Remove the pattern and re pin just the jumper panel in half.

Step 3, Stitch along edge 1, and then edge 2, but while you are sewing edge 2, stop at the marker, turn the beanie inside out (so it is now actually right sides round), and complete stitching edge 2. This is so when you fold over the ribbed edge, the seam won't show on the outside of the hat.

Step 4, Turn it back so it's inside out again, and re-fold the Beanie so the 2 seams you have just sewn are now central. Pin and sew the last curved seam around the top.

Step 5, Turn the hat right side round, fold over the ribbed edge section and give it a quick press with an iron, and it's all done!

A few tips which may help...

wear the hat with the long seam at the back, shorter seam to the front as it'll look neater

by all means, adjust the pattern to fit your head by making it wider or narrower if it's for a child

you may need to stretch out your jumper panel to fit the pattern, but don't worry about doing this, as knitted fabrics do have a lot of give in them

you can add decoration, a pom pom or a flower and some buttons

I now have one in mushroom, one in blue, brown next I think...

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Whatever the weather, I mostly walk the school run as parking can be problematic. In wind and rain, hoods blow down, so a hat can be the best option for keeping dry. My winter coat is probably best described as being mushroom in colour, and I've been on the look out for a matching hat for ages but not found anything quite right.

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Sun hat

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Today I have another piece from the summer collection. Probably the most important piece of the collection, the sun hat. For my hair haired fair skinned beauty the sun hat really helps since it's especially difficult to get sunscreen on her hair and face. So I was determined to design a hat that was big enough to cover her face and neck, but still fitted to her head.

I went through several "prototypes" until I finally made one that was perfect. The first one was far too big in the crown and the rim didn't fit around, so back to the drawing board... The second all fit together great but the proportions were all off, not a total failure since it will fit her someday. Then everything fell into place perfectly.

which just so happens to work out well for me because the stripes are my favorite anyway.

And in case you were wondering if it just covers the whole face and head, no they can still see just fine (just maybe not up but they don't need to look at the sun) and since it's tied on it stays in place.

So you can get the free pattern HERE
Size: Toddler the finished circumference is 20.5″
You will need

Pattern Pieces printed out

1/2 yard of fabric total (for lining and main but you can do them out of two fabrics if you want)

1/2 yard fusible interfacing mid weight (optional)

1/2 yard of ribbon (optional)

Iron (you want to press the seams)

(since I made several hats the pictures are from a few different versions)

To start, if you want a stiff brim (like I made) press interfacing on to one of the brim pieces (the outer is best) Then with right sides together you are going to sew together the two end pieces so you create a loop. Repeat with the lining.

For one prototype hat I added some roc-rac to the edge of the brim. To do this I simply stitched it to the outside of edge crossing the edges over at the seam.

Then with the two brim pieces right sides together sew along bottom edge. Then clip the curved edge. I used pinking shears to clip the curved edge.

Then turn the brim pieces right side out and press. (see the cute trim)

Now for the crown. Take the 6 outer pieces and press the fusible interfacing to the wrong sides. Then with the right sides together sew two crown pieces together along the edge.

Then press the seam open. I know it's tough since the seam is curved but make sure the press the top and bottom and just do the best you can with the rest. Then sew another crown piece right sides together to the two piece so you have 3 sewn together.

At this point you should have two halves all sewn and pressed. Then with the right sides together sew the two halves together starting at the bottom up around the curve and down the other side.

Then you will have a cap like so. (shown in this picture it's deeper than the actual pattern since I edited the depth) Mark the center front and center back. The middle of one crown section will be "center front" and the middle of the opposite crown section will be "center back"

Now take the outer crown and the brim and sew them right sides together. Match up the center back of the crown with the seam in the brim. The center front of the crown should match the center front of the brim. When sewing the two pieces together be sure to ease around the curves and smooth them out as you go.

(changing to a different hat here) Press the seam from where the brim and the crown meet toward the inside.

Now for the crown lining. Fold the bottom edge of each piece up by 3/8″ (you will be pressing it towards the "wrong side" of the fabric.

Then sew the crown lining the same way you did the main crown. When you are done you should once again have a cap but the bottom edge will be all folded under.

Place the lining into the cap so the wrong sides are together. Match the folded edge of the lining up with the stitch line from where the crown and brim were sewn. Then sew along the edge where the brim and crown meet to sew the lining in place.

See the lining sewing in place? Cool. So you can be done or you can add ribbons which I do since the hat is for a baby who would take it off or it would fall off, or any number of things. Sew the ribbon at the two side points of the hat along the inside.

Then the hat is done. Ready to be worn to protect them from the sun.

There is nothing cuter than a babe in a wide brimmed hat. Seriously.

It melts my heart every single time.

Hat || Free Pattern
Fabric || Black and white stripe || Modern Yardage
Shirt || From this post
Pants || Target

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Here Comes the Sun{hat} || Free PDF Pattern || Summer Collection - Shwin and Shwin

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Today I have another piece from the summer collection. Probably the most important piece of the collection, the sun hat. For my hair haired fair skinned beauty the sun hat really helps since it's especially difficult to get sunscreen on her hair and face. So I was determined to design a hat that was big ...

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Pinterest is a visual discovery tool that you can use to find ideas for all your projects and interests.

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Pork Pie Hat, Lewis Taylor

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KEVIN from JJ HAT CENTER -Shape a Fedora into a Pork Pie

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how to reshape a standard "center crease/ pinch front" fedora into a pork pie hat. Reshaping the crown of a felt hat requires a good source of steam, a "jiffy steamer" is what I'm using here, it's barely strong enough..

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Hey guys, it's been a long time. I'm so sorry about that, life was crazy! I hope you enjoy this tutorial on how to draw patterns for a bucket hat from scratch. I want to thank you all for subbing!! love ya, really appreciate it!!

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Dog cap pattern

Spring is coming, and the eyes of our little pets should be protected from the heat and bright sunlight, so here I let you a free dog cap patterns to make easy and pretty caps for your dog. In this picture you can see the result:

The patterns to make this dog cap are two: the cap (head) and the visor. You have to cut two pieces of each pattern to make the visor double and the head part with lining.

To get the visor part rigid place a piece of waterproof cardboard or some fine plastic or other rigid material between the fabric layers. Or you can simply use thick fabric as I did.

This is a preview of the patterns (the right side in black). Please note that you have to cut the two patterns pieces on the fold, so that you can get the entire two patterns: cap and visor.

First, take the head's outer layer and sew the middle top seam. Do the same with the head's lining layer.

Sew the two layers of the head (outer layer and lining) with right sides facing together (except the zone where the head goes attached to the visor) and turn right side out.

Sew the two visor pieces together with right sides facing together (except the zone where the visor goes attached to the head) and turn right side out.

Now sew, with right sides facing together, the outer layer of the visor with the outer layer of the head to attach the head to the visor.

Sew a ribbon to the loose edge of the inner layer of the visor.

Finally, topstitch or sew by hand the loose edge of the ribbon (sewed to the visor) with the loose edge of the inner layer of the head (lining).

Optional: Edge-stitch all around the cap to flat the seams. And you are done!

The seam at the top of the cap gives the rounded shape of the head. And this is the way I've sewn the string. This is my way but you can do it in other ways as you can see in pics below. I've used elastic.

The string should be as long as your dog needs.

Download free dog cap patterns in three sizes below:

Important: please read this before printing the patterns:
How to measure your dog for clothing
Dog clothing sizing chart
Tips for printing patterns

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Spring is coming, and the eyes of our little pets should be protected from the heat and bright sunlight, so here I let you a free dog cap patterns to make easy and pretty caps for your dog. In this picture you can see the result: The patterns to make this dog cap are two: the cap (head) and the visor.

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Some of us wear our favourite pair of jeans until they literally fall off our bodies. Once you have cut your jeans into shorts, what can you do with the left-over legs? This unisex bucket hat is an eco-chic way to salvage denim scraps which would otherwise end up in landfill.

You will need:

one pair of old jeans

lightweight fabric scraps for lining

sewing machine and thread

sewing machine needle for sewing denim

scissors

iron and ironing board

pins

flexible tape measure

printer and A4 paper

1. Measure the circumference of your head using a flexible tape measure. Choose your size:

small: 54.5cm (21.5″)
medium: 57cm (22.5″)
large: 59.5cm (23.5″)

2. Cut down the seams of your jeans and open them out flat.

3. Download the pattern pieces here: denim-bucket-hat.
Print the pattern out onto paper. Make sure your page size is set to 100%.

4. Fold the denim fabric in half and pin the pattern pieces along the fold.

5. Cut out the fabric.

6. Using the same pattern pieces, cut out your lining fabric.

7. With right sides of denim together, stitch side pieces together with 1.3cm (0.5″) wide seam allowances. Press (iron) seams open flat.

8. With right sides of denim together, stitch brim pieces together with 1.3cm (0.5″) wide seam allowances. Press (iron) seams open flat.

9. With right sides together, pin and stitch denim top piece to the upper side pieces.

10. With right sides together, pin and stitch denim brim pieces to lower side pieces. Avoid lining up the seams so you are not stitching through more than three layers of denim at once.

11. Sew lining pieces together in the same way as the denim.

12. With right sides together, slip lining hat inside denim hat. Pin and stitch denim to lining 1.3cm (0.5″) from edge of brim. Leave a 10cm long opening.

13. Turn hat right-side-out through the opening. Press (iron) this brim seam flat. Slip-stitch opening closed by hand.

14. Top-stitch through all layers around the edge of the brim.

For more free patterns visit our library here.

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Free pattern: denim reversible bucket hat

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Some of us wear our favourite pair of jeans until they literally fall off our bodies. Once you have cut your jeans into shorts, what can you do with the left-over legs? This unisex bucket hat is an eco-chic way to salvage denim scraps which would otherwise end up in landfill.

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Reversible Bucket Hat | Free Sewing Patterns | Oliver + S

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Download this free hat pattern to make the Oliver + S Reversible Bucket Hat from our book, Oliver + S Little Things to Sew.

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Making this hat

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Hey y'all - we're wrapping up menswear sewing month with this tutorial on hats. I'm going to show you how I made this particular hat, but also share a template that will help you draft any kind of hat you want and then sew a hat.

Let's start by talking about the parts of a hat, as shown below. There are really only 3 main parts - the crown, the side band, and the brim.

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And here I have a crown template. When you download it, it looks like this:

It has crown sizes 24 1/2″ all the way down to 19 1/2″. Which means that you could use it for babies up to grown men. But first let's talk about how to use it.

Depending on the hat style, you may want the crown about the same size as the head circumference (like the flat brim hat I made here), slightly smaller than the head circumference (like this rain bucket hat was) or larger than the head circumference (like how you gather in the crown of a chef's hat).

In general, you'll want to measure the person's head and add 1/2″ (this is for the thickness the brim seams will add), then choose the size of the crown based on that. For example, my husband's head measured 22 1/4″, so adding 1/2″ that gave me 22 3/4″, so I went with the 23″ template. BUT that doesn't mean that the crown was 23″ - because of seam allowances. So when measured in 1/2″ (the seam allowance I used) the crown gets smaller. Like the image below.

Another way to determine this is to measure in 1/2″ (or whatever seam allowance you're using) on the template and then look at which circumference that it. In this case, measuring in got me to the 21″ circumference.

Once you have your crown template cut, you can easily draft the rest of the hat. Let's start with the side band. First, determine the side band height you want. In this case I used a height of 4 inches - which would put the hat above my husband's ears. Draw a rectangle that is the height you want by the head circumference plus 1/2″ measurement. Cut this rectangle into 8 pieces, then overlap the top edges enough to equal the seam measurement from the crown of the hat.

For example, I started with a 4″ x 23″ rectangle. Then I overlapped each piece 1/4″ so that the top of my side band was 21″ and the bottom was still 23″. Add seam allowances all around the side band, and you've got your side band piece.

To draft the brim, first you need to decide if you want a flat brim or a shaped brim. In this case I went with flat, and drafting that is as easy as determining the brim width (in this case I started with 5 1/2″ because the hubs said he wanted a really wide brim, but after showing it to him, ended up doing 4 inches as the brim, including the seam allowances. Don't forget to add a seam allowance to the inside of the brim when you cut that circle out.

If you wanted a shaped brim, you would take a pie shaped wedge out of the brim and then close the gap - this would create a brim that would either flip up or flip down, depending on how you sew it in. The bigger the pie slice, the more the brim would angle.

Once your brim is drafted, here's your cut list:

Two brims of main fabric and at least 2 of interfacing

1 side band of each fabric - main, lining and interfacing

1 crown of each fabric - main, lining and interfacing

Heavy duty sew in interfacing is a must with hats to give them body. For this brim I used 4 pieces, sandwiched on top and bottom of the two brim pieces. Sew around the outside edge.

Trim the seam down to 1/4″ or less, then turn the brim right side out.

Press the brim. A point turner ( affiliate link) is helpful for this.

To reinforce the brim even more, I sewed a bunch of lines about 1/2″ apart (except for the two closest to the outside edge those are 1/4″ apart)

Next, sew the side band together at the side seam. I sew the interfacing with the main fabric, and the lining separately.

Pin the side band to the crown. As you can see, the crown is flat at the seam line, but not at the edges. Stitch. Repeat with main fabric crown/side band.

Notch the brim in the seam allowance all around the inside edge.

Pin the brim to the crown/side band assembly. Stitch.

Add the lining into the hat, wrong sides together.

To finish the inside, add ribbon. 1 1/2″ or wider grosgrain or satin ribbon cut to the head circumference plus 1/2″ and seam allowance works best. Sew the ribbon into a loop and then pin it over the raw edge of the hat and lining, so that the ribbon is against the brim. Stitch, then flip the ribbon to the inside of the hat.

Topstitch around the bottom edge of the side band to hold the ribbon in place and you're done.

And there we have it - a hat perfect for mowing the lawn and other outdoor work.

Get access to my free pattern gallery - sign up for my newsletter!

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Hey y'all - we're wrapping up menswear sewing month with this tutorial on hats. I'm going to show you how I made this particular hat, but also share a template that will help you draft any kind of hat you want and then sew a hat.

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When you take a vacation in the sun, one item you must remember to pack is a hat to protect yourself from the sun's harsh rays. But have you ever tried to take a woven hat with you on vacation? It's basically impossible to pack without crushing, so you end up wearing it en route on the plane, or carrying it along with your luggage.

But a fabric sun hat is the best of both worlds: You can fold and pack it along with your clothes, but when unfolded, it will provide shade and keep you from getting burnt. The steps below look long and complicated, but trust me, this couldn't be easier! Just follow along with each step of this sewing tutorial, and you'll have your own version in no time.

How to make an fabulous & foldable fabric sun hat

Step 1: Gather your tools.

The Rain and Sun Hat Pattern by Lorenna Buck Designs

Medium to heavy weight fabric for the top of the hat and both rims

Medium to light weight fabric for the cap lining

Lightweight woven fusible interfacing

Scissors

Thread (note that there will be topstitching on the main fabric)

Pencil

Water soluble marking tool

Pins

Clear ruler

Step 2: Print the pattern.

If you've never used a PDF pattern before, this might be new to you. The first thing you always need to do is print the page that has a test square on it. Print the page at 100% with no scaling in a PDF reader software, like Adobe Acrobat. Once that page is printed and the square is the correct size. Continue by printing the remaining pages.

Step 3: Assemble the pattern.

PDF patterns need to be assembled as they are full-sized patterns broken up to fit on regular sized sheets of paper. I like to trim the bottom and right edges of each page, as pictured above.

Once you have trimmed to the rectangle on the overlapping sides of the pattern, line up the outer rectangle lines and the markings of the pattern. Take along the seams to form one large pattern piece.

Step 4: Cut the pattern.

Once all the pages are assembled, use your scissors meant for paper and cut around the shape. For this project, there is one piece for the rims and one piece for the cap.

Step 5: Cut the fabric.

For the outer portion of the hat, I suggest using a medium to heavy weight canvas or similar fabric. The fabric I used is 100% cotton canvas weight. Cut two pieces for the rim by placing it on the fold, then cut six triangle-shaped pieces for the cap. There isn't a grainline on the cap piece, so be sure to place it on grain. I cut mine with the length of grain running vertically with the piece, so the cross grain stretch went around the cap.

Repeat by cutting six pieces for the interior lining of the cap. This should be quilt-weight cotton or a similar fabric. Again, be sure to place it on grain when pinning to the fabric.

Step 6: Sew the cap.

Place two of the outer cap pieces together, right sides facing. Pin along one of the curved edges and sew on the project's seam allowance of 1/2″. I suggest sewing towards the points on the cap pieces, as it's much harder to line up on the correct seam allowance with the curve and point.

After sewing the seam, press the seam allowance to the right. Because this is now a curved 3-D piece, this will not lay flat, so use a pressing ham under the curve to press it properly.

In the construction of the hat, I mostly follow the instructions for the pattern, but there are moments that I preferred to do things differently. The topstitching is one of those spots. In the pattern all the cap top stitching is done at the end of assembling the entire cap, but that is significantly more difficult that doing them after sewing. So as pictured above, I topstitched after each curved cap seam.

Place a third cap piece on the previously sewn cap pieces, right sides together and pin along the curved edge. As you did with the last pair, sew towards the top point along the 1/2″ seam allowance.

When the three pieces meet at the top, the stitching will land right in the intersection of the pieces. Press the seam allowance to the right as with the previous seam.

Topstitch along the seam just sewn. I stitched my cap's seams at a 1/8″ seam allowance. Repeat these steps to form the other half of the cap.

Place the two cap sections right sides together and pin along the top curve. Stitch along the curve at the project's 1/2″ seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance to one side with your pressing ham underneath to fill the empty space.

Insert the top seam just sewn back into the machine to top stitch. This can be tricky as there are bulky seam intersections to go over, so take your time. Again, I stitched my top stitching at 1/8″.

Step 7: Sew the cap lining.

Place two of the lining pieces right sides together and pin along one of the curved sides. Sew the seam on the 1/2″ seam allowance and stitch toward the top point.

Press the seam allowance by placing your pressing ham under the curved seam.

Top stitch the lining by sewing 1/8″ from the seam just sewn, just as you did for the outer portion of the cap. Repeat these steps to create the second half of the cap lining.

Place the two lining pieces right sides together and pin along the top curve. Stitch at 1/2″. Press the seam allowance to one side and top stitch as you did on the outer cap.

Step 8: Sew the rims.

Use the rim pattern piece and cut one rim piece from lightweight woven fusible interfacing. Fuse the interfacing to one of the rim pieces. This piece of the rim will be on the underside of the hat, so if you are using a different fabric for the two rim pieces, keep that in mind.

Fold the rim in half and pin the short edges right sides together. Stitch along the seam at 1/2″.

Press the seam you just sewed open with an iron. I used my pressing ham under the seam as the rim will not be flat after sewing the last step. Note, when working with curved seams, be careful not to stretch them out of place, as all the elements need to line up as the hat gets assembled.

Place the outer cap and the non-interfaced rim right sides together and align the inner curve of the rim with the curve of the cap. Pin along the circle. Be sure to place the rim's seam at a place on the cap that would be the back of the hat.

Sew around this circle being extra careful not to create any pinches in the fabric on the underside. Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance.

Place the hat on the pressing ham and press the seam just sewn. The seam allowance should be facing up into the cap portion of the hat. Pressing this area helps open up the seam so when the rim is sewn the foot can get into the area around the cap with ease.

Pin the lining cap to the interfaced rim around the circle seam as you did in the last step and sew together at the 1/2″ seam allowance. Mark a 2″ section of this seam to remain unsewn that will be used later for turning the hat right side out.

Press the seam around the hat that was just sewn as you did with the other cap and rim. For the section not sewn, simply fold the seam allowance under and press as if it was sewn.

Step 9: Assemble the hat.

Place the two hat groupings together, right sides facing. Pin around the outer perimeter of the rims. The caps should fit inside each other.

Sew around the rim, stitching the two rims together at the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance from the previous step in half.

Pull the entire hat out through the hole left in the hat when sewing the lining to the rim. Be careful not to be too aggressive, as we don't want to tear anything.

Press the rim flat on both sides of the hat to prepare it for top stitching.

If necessary, press the cap and rim seam again to keep the rim out of the way for topstitching.

The pattern calls for the rim only to be topstitched at the outer most edge and at the seam where the cap and the rim meet, but I love a hat with rows and rows of top stitching, so I did mine that way. Plus the topstitching helps strengthen the rim to help keep the hat from being too floppy.

If desired, continue stitching around the rim, using the foot as the guide from row to row. Be sure to check your bobbin to make sure you won't run out of thread along the way!

Hand stitch the hole left in the hat closed with a needle and thread and give the rim a final press.

All that's left to do it fold it up in your bag with your swimsuit and sunblock!

What color & pattern of fabric are you going to use for your sun hat?

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Home Away From Home: How to Sew a Folding Sun Hat

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When you take a vacation in the sun, one item you must remember to pack is a hat to protect yourself from the sun's harsh rays. But have you ever tried to take a woven hat with you on vacation?

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I am goign to make this hat for my Wife

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Wendy Talené is the designer behind Elsewhen, your source for hat patterns, hats or custom millinery requests. Wendy designed this pretty Rosabelle Cloche, an elegant hat with handmade roses for sizes 19" - 25" (Toddler - Adult Large). You can download the free PDF pattern and follow Wendy's step-by-step instructions in her tutorial below! All of your friends will want their own Rosabelle...

Learn more about Wendy and Elsewhen patterns in her introduction. Each of Wendy's patterns is full of detail so even beginner sewists can create their own hat! Find more designs in the Elsewhen shop.

Rosabelle is a simple and versatile cloche hat that can be made in any size for any season. The whole project can be completed in two hours. This pattern includes instructions for making your own handmade roses. Skip to the rose section to start your own bouquet, hairpiece or boutonniere, just in time for wedding season! For the full pattern with printable instructions, click on this PDF Pattern.

Skill Level: Intermediate:
This pattern has detailed explanations, illustrations and sewing tips that could make this pattern an enjoyable project even for a relative novice. However, you should be familiar with the capabilities of your sewing machine, like adjusting tension for thick and thin fabrics or using the appropriate needle for your selected fabric.

Finding Your Hat Size:
To find your hat size, place a measuring tape around your head, just above your ear. Think about how thick your hair is and how you will likely arrange your hair when wearing this hat. Add ½"-1" to your head measurement for a comfortable fitting hat size. Note that the inside measurement of the hat is about 1" smaller than the outside measurement, depending on the thickness of your fabric, so as you make the crown of the hat it will be loose until the lining and head band are inserted. For example, head measurement: 22" = hat size: 23" = outside hat measurement: 24".
Notions Required:

½ yard of hat fabric

¼ yard of lining fabric

Scraps of synthetic fabric for roses

Thread to match hat fabric and binding

1 yard iron-on adhesive or fusible interfacing (optional)

Candle or lighter

Fabric stiffener (optional)

Recommended Fabrics:
This hat can be made of a variety of fabric but it is ideal to use a fabric of medium thickness without any stretch in it. Thick faux suede works well. Other fabrics of thin to medium thickness or fabrics with loose weave or stretch can be stiffened or stabilized using the fusing techniques on Page 5 of the PDF. For the hat lining, fabrics like taffeta, satin or pre-washed cotton are best. For the roses, find fabric with meltable, synthetic fibers, such as polyester, nylon or spandex. For the hat shown, I used thin, polyester faux suede for a soft texture.

Cutting Your Fabric:
Many sewing patterns incorporate seam allowances into the pattern shape itself. However Elsewhen patterns do not, for several reasons. Most crucially, it allows for more accuracy to mark the precise sewing line and estimate the cut line than vice versa, especially when fitting a hat to a round head for an exact and comfortable fit as well as small details in design.

1. Cut out the paper pattern piece on the solid line, according to your hat size (about 1" larger than your head measurement).

2. Take a moment to decide which pattern pieces to cut out of which area of fabric so that you'll have all the pieces you need with the grain in the right direction.

3. Mark a sewing line on the back of the fabric around each pattern piece.

4. Mark a cutting line ½" outside the sewing line. This is your seam allowance.

5. Cut and iron each piece.

6. Cut out iron-on adhesive and cotton fabric if needed and iron them on to the respective pieces.

Cut:
- 6 of pattern A in hat fabric
- 6 of pattern A in lining fabric
- 2 of pattern B in hat fabric
- 1 piece of hat fabric 2" x 25" (This hat band can be substituted with grosgrain ribbon.)

Crown:
1. Determine your hat size (about 1" larger than your head measurement).

2. Cut out six pieces of fabric of pattern A, following the direction of the grain specified on the pattern piece, and allowing ½" margins outside the edge of the pattern piece (this is your seam allowance).

For the hat shown, I stabilized my loose weave linen/burlap fabric with iron-on adhesive and a thin layer of cotton. No more stretch and just the right thickness. See PDF for instructions.

3. Place the front sides of two A pieces together and sew along one curved edge ½" from the edge of the fabric.

4. Fold the front sides open and with the unfinished edges folded to the left behind, place a third piece-A, front side down against the unfolded pieces. Sew along the right hand side of the curved edge.

5. You now have three A pieces sewn together, forming a point at the top of the center piece.

6. Set this aside and sew a second set of three with the three remaining pieces.

7. For each set of three, turn over to the wrong side and sew a topstitch 1/8" on either side of the two inner sewing lines, pressing the flaps outward.

8. Cut off excess fabric from the topstitched flaps.

9. Precisely match the points at the top of the two sets of three. Use a pin if it helps.

10. Sew front sides together along the curved edges from the center point outward.

11. After you have sewn from the center point to one end of this seam, check to make sure that the center points did in fact line up exactly and redo it if it isn't matched up.

12. Also check the measurement of the bottom edge of the crown to be sure that your final seam will be the right size. Remember that the outer crown measurement should be about 1" larger than your intended hat size.

I'm making a size 23 hat so my outside measurement will be 24" and with two ½" seam allowances on the edges, it measures 25" from edge to edge. If any of my seams have been off up to this point, this is a great chance to correct the size by simply adjusting where this final seam is sewn.

13. Sew from the center point to the other end of the seam.

14. You now have all six A pieces assembled.

15. With the crown inside out and back side facing up, sew a topstitch 1/8" from the seam line of the final seam you completed (the one joining the two sets of three A pieces). Go down the right side and when you reach the end, turn and sew down the other side of the seam.

16. After all the topstitching is done, cut off all the excess fabric from the seam allowance flaps.

17. The outer crown is now complete.

Lining:
1. Cut out six pieces of lining using pattern A.

2. Follow steps 1-13 (no need to topstitch the lining seams). Tip: If you are worried about making the lining fit exactly into the crown, err on the side of making the lining slightly larger than the crown, not smaller.

3. With your lining complete, insert the lining into the crown with back sides together.

4. Make sure the lining is tucked as snug as possible into the crown. There may or may not be a bit of excess lining extending past the crown rim.

5. Baste or sew the edge of the lining and the edge of the crown together, close to the edge of the fabric.

6. If the lining is a little too large at the circumference, tuck the excess under in the final inch of your baste line.

7. Cut off any excess lining that extends past the crown and set aside the lined crown.

Brim:
1. Cut out two pieces of fabric using pattern B, making sure that the grain, texture or print of the fabric runs parallel, perpendicular or at a 45° angle to the center fold as desired.

2. Pin the front sides together.

3. Sew the outer edge of brim pieces together.

4. Cut notches every 2" or so along the seam allowance on the outer edge of the brim. Cut right up to the intended sewing line but not beyond.

5. Measure the intended sewing line on the inside edge of the brim, ½" in from the inside edge and ½" from the ends, to be sure it matches the outer measurement of the crown.

6. Sew the front sides of the ends of the brim together, starting from the center line outward.

7. Cut off excess fabric, leaving only about 1/4" of seam allowance on all loose flaps. I also like to cut a little notch at the center to get rid of some of the bulk.

8. Turn right side out.

9. Sew a topstitch around the outer edge about 1/8" from the finished edge. You can begin this seam at either side of the joining seam (as shown) if you prefer.

10. Baste the unfinished outer edge of the brim together, close to the edge. You can hand baste it or machine baste it with a long stitch.

11. Cut short notches in the unfinished edge of the brim, every 1-3" or so, to accommodate the curve of the fabric.

12. The brim is now ready to attach to the crown.

Attaching the Brim:
1. Place the brim, inside out and upside down, around the crown, matching the back seam to one of the crown seams.

2. Pin in place and sew together.

3. Cut off the excess fabric from the seam allowance of the crown only.

4. Tuck the flaps up into the hat.

5. Stand back and admire. You're getting closer to a finished hat.

Head Band:
For the head band, you can use the traditional grosgrain ribbon if you like but I find that it tends to pucker and prefer to use the hat fabric itself for sleek look.

1. Cut a piece of fabric 26" long and 2" wide. ( Tip: See Page 5 of the PDF for more detailed instructions.)

2. Fold a ½" fold over on both long sides of the piece and sew a topstitch 1/8" from the edge.

3. Turn the unfinished edges of the crown base up into the crown.

4. Fit the head band into the crown beginning with an inch of head band before the seam line at the back of the hat.

5. This gets a bit tricky but here goes... Place the hat over the arm of the sewing machine so that base of the crown is under the presser foot.

6. The needle should plunge 1/8" to the left (toward the top of the crown) of the crown base seam. Begin at the back of the hat. With your right hand, feel under the brim to position the head band so that the edge of the head band is precisely lined up with the seam which joins the crown and brim.

7. Sew slowly and carefully around the crown base. When you near the back of the hat again and there is extra head band, fold it under and complete the sewing line.

8. Finish attaching the ends of the head band, by hand if necessary.

9. The hat is structurally complete. Now you are ready to add trim.

Roses Trim:
You can trim this simple cloche with anything you want to (ribbons, jewelry, buckles, buttons, etc.). This pattern features a brim flipped up over a simple band and handmade roses made of synthetic fabrics. You can also make these roses for hairpieces, boutonnieres, wedding bouquets or to trim other Elsewhen hat designs.

1. Determine how many roses and buds you want to make.

2. Cut petal shapes varying in size from about 1"-2" wide. You'll need about ten petals for large full blooms and five petals for small buds.

3. In a well-ventilated area, use a candle or lighter to lightly singe the edges of each petal. This keeps the fabric from fraying and melts it slightly, creating a curved, gathered edge like a real rose petal. Keep you fingers clear of the melting fabric.

4. Depending on your fabric and fiber content, you may want to stiffen your petals by spraying them with fabric stiffener at this stage.

5. When your petals are dry, begin to assemble your roses.

6. Prepare a sewing needle with a 2' length of sewing thread.

7. Roll a small petal as shown and pass the sewing needle through the base a few times to secure the shape.

8. Before you add the next petal, observe how real rose petals are arranged on a rose. Note how each subsequent petal overlaps the one before about halfway and continues around in a circle in a consistent direction.

9. Add the rest of the petals by crimping the base slightly and passing the needle and thread through each petal a few times.

10. Add petals of increasing size, until your rose reaches your desired size.

11. Cut off excess fabric at the base without cutting your thread.

12. Assemble other roses and buds.

13. Arrange them as desired on your hat and sew with on with invisible tack stitches.

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Rosabelle Hat Free Pattern + Tutorial | Sew Mama Sew

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Wendy Talené from Elsewhen designed this pretty Rosabelle Cloche, an elegant hat with handmade roses for sizes 19" - 25" (Toddler - Adult Large). You can download the free pattern and follow Wendy's step-by-step instructions in her tutorial below! All of your friends will want their own Rosabelle...