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¡Buen Camino, everyone!

This map will serve as our collective digital journal as we journey toward Santiago. Before we arrive at each town, the student assigned to that location will share their initial research here to help us prepare for the next day's journey.

Your Task:

1. Before Arrival: Find your town on the map and click the (+) to post your findings and a few images.

2. On the Ground: Use the Comment feature on your own post to add "live" updates or photos of what you're seeing in person.

3. Post-Visit: Edit your post to include your final reflections on how the real-world experience compared to your research.

I'm looking forward to seeing the Way through your eyes!

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Classes were held in CGL for the first week of spring term.

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The first week of spring term was spent on W&L's campus. We read texts from the twelfth-century Liber Sancti Jacobi. These included the narrative of his translatio, miracles attributed to his intervention, and the Pilgrim's Guide. We also read a narrative of St. James' intervention in the conquest of Coimbra by Fernando I of León in 1064. Part of every class was devoted to practicing vocabulary and phrases in Portuguese, and we began our posts on this pallet, to be revised later.

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Lisbon is the capital of Portugal. It is a port city and is located at the mouth of the Tagus river, known as O Tejo in Portuguese, the longest river of the Iberian peninsula. It was founded by the Phoenicians and eventually became Olisipo under Roman rule. Afonso Enriques, the first king of Portugal, conquered the city from Muslim rule in 1147 and it subsequently became the capital of the emergent kingdom. Its rich history and vibrant culture make it very attractive to residents and visitors alike.

We start our journey here, meeting as a group on Sunday, May 3 for a welcome lunch and orientation to Lisbon and Portuguese customs.

May 4 we had a tour of the city, including a stop at the estuary of the river Tejo with what looks like the Golden Gate Bridge in the background, a walk up to Castelo de São Jorge, stopping to view the Igreja de Santo Antonio, dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua who was born in Lisbon on that very site, and then entering the Castle grounds we saw the statue of Afonso Henriques, the king who laid siege to the castle in 1147, leading to its surrender and that of Lisbon some six months later, and finally from the Castelo we appreciated the best views of Lisbon.

After visiting cultural sites in the city, learning about its history and connection to the Caminho de Santiago, we'll travel to Porto, where the walking portion of our Camino experience begins. Bom Caminho!

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Photo 1: Ribeira district; Photo 2: Clérigos Tower; Photo 3: Town Hall; Photo 4: Tiles in Train Station; Photo 5: Palácio da Bolsa

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Porto is the second most populated city in Portugal, located on the West coast of the country and along the Douro River. Along the river is the historic Ribeira "Riverside" district, which is considered a UNESCO World Heritage site with many things to see. Just past Ribeira is Baixa, the center of the city which is always bustling with shops and popular landmarks such as Clérigos Tower. While technically a separate city, on the other side of the Douro River is the Vila Nova de Gaia, which is popular for getting great views of Porto as well as visiting port wine cellars.

As the second oldest city in Europe, Porto has been under the control of many different groups. With close ties to the Roman Empire, Porto was invaded by the Visogoths in 456, who ruled until the Moorish Muslims conquered it in 716. In 868, the Christian reconquered Porto. Porto also had large influences from both the Spanish imposition and by England, which helped increase the city's size and stature. During the 18th century, dubbed "Porto's golden age," the city was built full of neoclassical and baroque architecture. In the 19th century, Porto had an economic boom fueled primarily by the industry surrounding Porto's famous wines.

Our group arrived in the early afternoon on May 6, and got to walk around to see the amazing attractions the city offers and get lunch. On the following day, May 7, we had two separate guided walking tours of the city. Our morning tour highlighted some of the most interesting parts of the modern city. We learned about the evolution of the Rua de Santa Catarina into the tourism center it is today and some of the unique historical buildings along it. We visited the immense town hall and center square, and also the famous Livraria Lello bookstore. Other notable points on the tour was the Clérigos Tower and the old jail/court of appeals. Our tour guide also noted some of the traditions associated with university students in Porto.

The afternoon tour took our group on a walk through the Ribeira district to explore more closely the oldest parts of the city, which we learned was only one hill down to the river. We looked at the "hidden city" exhibit, an archeological project that chronicled the different historical periods of Porto. We ended by looking at the hand-painted tiles in the train station, learning how they were crafted, and seeing the beautiful Palácio da Bolsa before walking to the river.

The most interesting thing I learned while exploring the city was the close connection between its broad history and the different architectural styles; the development of Porto as a globally influential and powerful port city is reflected in the changing styles. On our final day in Porto, our group began the Camino by walking ~7 miles to Matosinhos.

Porto is the city from where we will begin our Camino de Santiago, with the next stop being Arcos.

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Caminho Litoral de Matosinhos a Vila do Conde

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For this stage our provider Green Walks will transport us from our hotel in Porto to the actual oceanfront area of Porto: Matosinhos, from which we begin our only stage on what is known as the Coastal Route of the Caminho de Santiago. This stage from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde, part of the Caminho Português da Costa, is a trek of approximately 22-23 km, that can be traversed in 4h30 to 5 hours. The route is mainly flat, rich in maritime scenes, with wooden footpaths, bike paths and rural roads, passing through places like Labruge, Angeiras and Mindelo.

Details of the route:

Difficulty: Moderate/Low (with the difficulty due to the fairly long distance).

Coastal Variant: Recommended because it follows the coastline, passing through beaches (Memória, Agudela, Pedras do Corgo, Angeiras) and through the Mindelo Onthological Reserve (Reserva Ornitológica de Mindelo).

Points of Interest: The Memory Obelisk (Obelisco da Memória), Church of Santiago de Labruge, and the riverfront area of Vila do Conde (the Santa Clara Aqueduct).

Signage: The route is clearly indicated with the yellow arrowhead signs characteristic of the Caminho de Santiago.

Side notes:

Services: There are cafés, restaurants and pilgrim aid stations in almost all the route localities.

Stamp (Credencial/ Passport): You may get your passport (credencial) stamped in the tourist offices in Matosinhos and in Leça da Palmeira.

Alternate route: Though the Coastal Route is more scenic, the Central Route through Porto to Arcos is another option, but the route along the shore is the most popular and developed.

Lodging and dinner: We'll spend the night in Vila do Conde, at the Hotel Brazão, where we'll have dinner at our hotel and in the morning transport to Arcos to begin the Central Route portion of the trip, which we will follow for the remainder of our journey.

Reflection: In 20024 we left from the hotel in Porto on foot and walked to Arcos, which was not really pleasant, passing through the city and then a warehouse district and eventually an industrial area before breaking into the countryside, so I'm curious to see the coastal route out of Porto.

Today, May 8, we walked from Porto to Matosinhos to complete the first stage of the Caminho. Tomorrow we'll transport to Matosinhos and start the second stage to Vila do Conde. It's the Coastal Route, so it'll be flat, but it's some 22 km, so it should take 5-6 hours.

What to see in Vila do Conde?: There are a couple of monasteries to visit, as well as the beach. It was an important ship building town in the age of discovery, and is now know for its 'rendas de bilros,' or intricate lace patterns, known as 'bobbin lace' or 'pillow lace.' The town has a population of some 85,000 inhabitants. The Convento de Santa Clara was founded in 1318 and like all monasteries in Portugal it was deactivated in 1834, eventually becoming property of the state. Its church is a beautiful late-gothic building with architectural elements from the many periods that contributed to its renovation and preservation: late-Gothic, Manueline (1490-1520), Baroque, and Rococo. Vila do Conde also retains a part of its 18th century aqueduct, which carried water to the Santa Clara monastery. Also, most notably, the S. Cristóvão de Rio Mau Romanesque church.

These are all recognized as Portuguese national monuments, along with several other churches and the Civitate de Bagunte, an ancient settlement dating from the fourth century BC, currently being excavated.

The Praia da Vila do Conde extends for more than 6 km, with beaches sued for surfing, swimming and commercial fishing.

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Arcos, Portugal (Vila Do Conde) is a small village off of the coast. It developed as a rural farming parish during the medieval period and is connected to the feudal and church systems that shaped northern Portugal. Arcos’s is known for corn, vineyards, and livestock. Through their agriculture and trade, it is supported larger nearby wealthy towns such as Vila do Conde, where we will be staying, and Porto.

When we are dropped off in Arcos, pay attention to the atmosphere and local culture. Although there are not many tourist attractions, it is said that the environment is an attraction enough. The town has many quiet roads, farms and stone homes. There are also small chapels, parish churches, and traditional northern Portuguese architecture.

Instead of spending a night in Arcos, we will be spending a night in Vila Do Conde, which is about seven miles away, or a 20 minute drive. The walk from Matosinhos to Vila Do Conde is 19,3 km (12 miles) and should take around five hours. We will be walking in a variety of different terrains, pavements, tarmac roads, and wooden boardwalks, along the Atlantic Ocean. There are many popular cafes, bars, and restaurants along the route, so there is no need to pack a bunch of snacks.

Updated:

Although we did not spend much time in Arcos, the city provided a beautiful scenery for our walk. We were dropped off at the church (photo 1) and continued walking through the town, neighborhoods, and churches.

I walked with Jacob and Brennan. We stopped twice while in Arcos. We stopped at a church about one mile into our walk and a cafe about two minutes after the church. A woman in the church called me in, despite not speaking English. We went inside and we noted that the architecture made it look like the inside was moving. After about two minutes, we stopped at a cafe and got a stamp and signed our name in a book.

I enjoyed walking in between farms and getting a first taste of what non tourist areas in Portugal look like.

Tchau!

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São Pedro de Rates--Eleventh-century Romanesque church, founded by Count Henrique de Borgoña and Dona Teresa, future queen of Portugal.

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Barcelos is one of the most symbolic cities in northern Portugal, known for its connection to the Portuguese Camino de Santiago and for the famous legend of the Rooster. The city developed during the 12th century and became an important stop for pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela. Its medieval bridges, historic center, and churches reflect the strong connection to the pilgrimage routes.

Historically, Barcelos has roots in the Roman period, but it grew mainly during medieval times and later became the seat of the first Duke of Braganca in the 15th century. One of the most famous places is the ruins of the Palace of the Counts of Barcelos, an old medieval palace that now works as an open air site.

The most famous story linked to Barcelos is the Legend of the Rooster (Galo de Barcelos). According to the legend, a pilgrim travelling to Santiago was wrongly accused of stealing and senteced to death. Before being hanged, he was granted a final wish, and he chose to speak to the judge. He told the judge that as proof of his innocence, the roasted rooster on the table would come back to life. Surprisingly, the rooster came back to life just as the man was about to be hanged. In doing so, the judge realized his mistake and saved the pilgrim. Since then, the Rooster of Barcelos became a symbol of justice and faith throughout Portugal.

Reflection:

Visiting Barcelos made me realize that the legend of the rooster has a big impact. You can see rooster symbols and statues everywhere, and it shows how this legend became part of the city's identity. However, visiting the city made me realize the city has a lot more history and cultural importance. Although we were in Barcelos for a short time, I was able to do some research about the Palace of the Counts of Barcelos. The city of Barcelos was connected to powerful families and had political importance in Portuguese history.

After doing research, I learned that Portugal became richer because of the gold and resources that came from Brazil. This wealth allowed Barcelos to start the construction of many churches, palaces, and artistic works within the city. Places such as the Jardim Das Barrocas helped me understand how the Brazilian wealth influenced the development of the city.

Additionally, the old streets, churches, and medieval buildings show how the city preserved its history over time. After visiting Barcelos, I realized there's more depth to it than just the legend associated with it. It is rich in culture and history, includind the gold trade with Brazil and the old medieval buildings built in it.

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Balugães, Portugal is a small town located in Northern Portugal, and is our 4th stop on El Camino central route. The walk between Barcelos and Balugães is very rural, and will pass through some small villages, but no major towns or cities. Most of the trail is low to moderate difficulty and mostly flat grounds, but is one steep climb around 10 km. Since Balugães is so rural, it cannot accomodate our group, so we will be spending the night in a hotel in Ponte de Lima, with a transfer coming to get us in the afternoon from Balugães.

Notable places along the route:

Cruz de Espirito Santo- 16th century stone cross in Vila Boa

Chapel of St. Sebastian

Village of Tamel- cross of Santa Missão and Our Lady of Portela church, both located in this small village in farmlands

Ponte das Tabuas (bridge of boards)- small beach area near the bridge if you want to go for a swim in the River Neiva!

The historic center of the town is charming and features cobbled streets and typical stone houses of the region. The townspeople of Balugães (population in 2021 was 787) are known for their hospitality and welcoming attitude towards pilgrims.

Notable places with historic signifigance:

Santuário de Nossa Senhora Aparecida- Portuguese Baroque style architecture dedicated to the virgin aparecida. The santuary is decorated with tiles on the inside telling the story of the miracles associated with the virgin.

Igreja de Balugães- church built in the 18th century that is the spiritual heart of the village, residents of the town gather here for religious celebrations and community events. The inside of the church contains sacred artwork (sculptures, altarpieces, and paintings) showing biblical scenes and saints.

Similarly, there is a Chapel of San Bento, a temple from the 18th century with traditionals portuguese architecture.

Update:

Today's walk to Balugães was my favorite day yet! We started the day in Barcelos at an amazing chocolate shop with the sweetest owners who even gave us a free bag of truffles for the walk today. I walked with Avery, HG, Maeve, Cate, Ronaldo, and Matthew for different portions of today. We met lots of lovely people today, including a local man on a tractor who showed us a cut through on the route to save us time from walking around the train tracks. At one of the churches we stopped at, we met a sweet Slovakian son and mother who took our picture and gave us a each a delicious cookie. We also met a sweet woman from Pennsylvania when we stopped at a café, and her nails were painted with the Camino logo, which was super cool. The route was lovely, through very small towns but mainly in the countryside through farmlands. Even though the path was flooded in some areas and it was raining most of the day, we didn't seem to mind. The highlight of my walk was singing and dancing in the rain with Avery, HG, and Maeve!

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Ponte de Lima is known to be the oldest town in Portugal older than the nation itself. The name of this town comes from the bridge over the Rio Lima that has thirty arches that go across the river. This bridge is a Roman bridge and has a famous myth that goes along with it. The center of this town is built around this bridge which is unusual as most other places are built around castles or cathedrals.

The main square of this town is right after the bridge and has lots of cafes. This is also prime vinho verde country - a wine that is young, a little fizzy, and best served cold. This town is also well known for its gardens and the celebration around twelve of them called Festival de Jardins from May to October. It is also known for its rich gastronomy with foods like Arroz de sarabulho and Pica no Chão. Every other Monday one of the oldest markets in Portugal is active along the river bank.

Top sites to see

Ponte de Lima bridge

Festival international de Jardins

Avenida dos

Igreja Matriz de Ponte de Lima

This day we will be walking 11.2 miles that should be a mix of tarmac, dirt paths, and stones. We should wind through vineyards and small villages. There is a small up hill this day that is said to be a slow burn. Right before we get there we should be walking along the river before we get to the famous bridge.

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Cossourado, Viana do Castelo District, Portugal

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Cossourado, Viana do Castelo District, Portugal

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Cossourado, Viana do Castelo District, Portugal

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population: 758 (2021)

arrive May 13!!

Ponte de Lima to Cossourado - Wednesday, May 13, 2026

Most challenging day!! Yayyyyy

Recommended to start early - we’re gonna be on the road at 8:30 am

Bring a bag of snacks!!

Crossing the River Lima along the bridge with 22 arches

It’s a combination of the medieval parts (larger, on the left bank, stretches towards the church) and the 5 Roman arches dating back to the first century.

The Church of St. Anthony of the Old Tower

along the right riverbank

Tiled church, 13th century era

4 km from Ponte de Lima, we’ll cross the Arco da Geia Bridge (Roman)

1 km after that, a waterfall is in the woods to the left

Fish farm and cafe after that (2nd to last food stop)

Gentle hill, then cross the River Labruja

During the next 2 miles, you’ll pass a chapel and café

Last chapel before coming down mountain, stop here for bathroom and snacks

About a mile and a half up the mountain and the steepest part

French cross stands commemorating when the local people ambushed the remnants of Napoleon’s army, a short climb to the top of the mountain!! (400 meters from top of mountain)

Maybe a cafe of sorts on the 2 mile hike down?

We are staying at Casa da Capela in Cossourado, which is directly off of the Caminho

Cossourado details:

Chapel of St. Benedict of the Open Door

Baroque architecture, 18th century

Vinho verde vineyards nearby

Forte da Cidade e Monte da Cividade aka fortified village of Cossourado

5 min drive from our hotel

Classified as a national monument

Iron age:  700 BC – 1 BC

On a hill, provided a strategic advantage

2 of the circular houses were reconstructed in the 20th century

Great walk today up the treacherous Labruja!! It started off with the sweetest visit to an old carpenter's shop, where he rang a bell and sent us off with a blessing. We saw some beautiful views as we made the climb and a few of the girls and I passed the time by telling high school stories. At the end of the day, we all agreed that the mountain was not as strenuous as previously advertised, but was a delightful, though somewhat painful, calf workout. The climb after the downhill was slightly unfortunate, but the ice-cold hotel pool at the end of the journey was a fantastic way to end a 15-mile day. The hotel in Cossourado was an awesome villa-style location with delicious food and more picturesque views and we had a great evening filled with wine and conversation!

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Valença is our last stop in Portugal before crossing the border into Spain. The town itself sits on the south bank of the Minho River and is somewhat small with a population of roughly 15,000 people. In terms of the walk from Cossourado to Valença, it’s one of our shorter journeys at roughly 10 miles, mostly downhill. Before reaching Valença, the route will be mostly small villages and farmland.

Although small, Valença still holds a lot of interesting history. The Fortaleza de Valença is a mountaintop fortress that overlooks both the river and Tui. It’s also almost entirely reconstructed after being demolished by barbarians, Romans, Moors, and even French. Valença has interesting churches as well as a bridge between Portugal and Spain modeled after the Eiffel Tower.

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Tui, Spain

General Information:

Located in Galicia with a population of ~17,000

Tui International Bridge connects Tui and Valença

No passport needed due to the Schengen Treaty

Major starting point for the Camino Portugués

Attractions:

Catedral Tui, a towering 13th-century Gothic-style Roman Catholic cathedral in the center of town

Paseo Fluvial de Tui - this is a scenic riverside boardwalk along the Miño River with playgrounds, gym equipment, and a small cafe

Iglesia de San Telmo

Parque Natural Monte Aloia - mountainous nature preserve with plenty of hiking to waterfalls, scenic

Secret nun cookies!

There is a hidden window where you just place 10 euros cash in exchange for a generous box of cookies! You ring a bell and they swap them out. There are two nuns who run this wholesome business at the convent. It is located on Rua das Monxas

Path from Valença to Tui:

1-2 km stroll across the bridge over the Miño River

15-20 minutes long

Terrain is easy and flat

Update on our walk:

Tui was not our final stop for Day 8 but we did walk on the International Bridge to reach it. The walk to Tui from Valença is brief, but it was exciting to technically be in two countries at once! This was also our first Spanish city, making it feel like we were truly making progress on the Caminho. Cate and I decided to explore the city for a bit by making a pit stop at a few souvenir shops. We also made a detour at the convent where we purchased some homemade cookies and rosaries for our families. The nun who was working at the time was kind enough to bless the rosaries and us on our trip. We found out that one of the nuns who also worked there had sadly passed away. It was a touching experience where we had a lovely conversation. We also visited the Catedral Tui, where I received my all-time favorite stamp.

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Spain sign you see when crossing the Tui International Bridge

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The "border" between Valença, Portugal and Tui, Spain!

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View of Tui from the International Bridge

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We purchased some rosaries from the convent!

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We will arrive to O Porriño from Valença on May 16. This is the day we go to Spain! Yay - so fun and festive! Get excited to adjust your clocks an hour forward and switch your ‘olá’ to ‘hola.’ We will travel about 12.5 miles, and it will be pretty flat.

We will first cross over a metal bridge over the River Minho. Built in the 1880s, this bridge is known as the Tui International Bridge and was designed by Gustave Eiffel (like the tower). It’s crazy to think about how pilgrims in ancient times would have made the long journey across the river by boat instead. As we make our way into Tui, we will stumble across Tui Cathedral. Its beautiful Romanesque and Gothic style architecture has been around since 1120 and features gardens and towers that are noted to be worth the stop. We’ll likely see 4-5 more churches along our route, and if you need a snack along the way, we’ll pass Ribadelouro Café, the last spot around for a while.

There are a couple of different options for the rest of the path: a slightly longer, scenic way or the original way that goes through the industrial zone. It seems like the scenic route along the river is most enjoyable and more often the suggested way.

People don’t seem to rave about how exciting O Porriño is, but I’m excited nonetheless! Once we get there, we’ll get to take in its chill, historic charm and see its most famous town hall building, Casa Consistorial, designed by Antonio Palacios. A few facts about O Porriño:

Located in Galicia, Spain

Population: 20,965

Known for its granite industry

Get excited!

Reflection:

We enjoyed a splendid walk to O Porriño from Tui! Most notably, we walked past a festive horse show taking place. There were tents everywhere and horses all around us. I asked a vendor along the path what was going on, and he shared that everyone in the town would bring their horses out for the festival. He shared that there are multiple events, and the most popular one is where all the riders and the horses make a lap through the forest rather than in the show arena itself.

Once we were in O Porriño, I realized that Antonio Palacios, designer of the town hall building, was more central to the town than I had originally thought. His building acts as the center of town, surrounded by many shops and is the site for many town celebrations. I neglected to take a photo, but walking by his building, I noticed preparation for an instrumental concert taking place in his honor in the street (Calle de Antonio Palacios). Because Palacios spent his first 18 years growing up in O Porriño, it makes sense that the town would celebrate him.

In addition to the Palacios concert celebration, there were many shops with many people walking around the town. It was clear that we had entered Spain, though, with many stores closed for the afternoon until 5:00 pm.

Looking more into the designs by Antonio Palacios, designer of the Town Hall, I discovered some of his most famous works:

Palacio de Cibeles: The Madrid City Hall was designed by Palacios and built in 1909. Just like the town hall in O Porriño, it blends Baroque and Gothic elements.

Casa de las Cariátides: Located in Madrid and built around 1915, Palacios co-designed what was then a bank and is now the headquarters for the Instituto Cervantes.

Metro de Madrid: Palacios designed the diamond-shaped logo!

Another thing unique to his building in O Porriño that I made sure to look for was the pink hue created by the use of the pink granite for which O Porriño is so well-known. We saw a lot of granite further into our journey, as granite is a crucial material in Galicia. For example, the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral is primarily made of granite. However, I only ever noticed the pinkness in the granite in O Porriño.

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The Porriño to Arcade stage covers roughly 23 km (13.6 miles) you head out through the forest of Chan das Pipas before a steep climb up to the Chapel of Santiaguiño de Mos, one of the early highlights of the day. From the top, you’re rewarded with views of the Vigo Estuary, said to hold treasure lost in the 1702 Battle of Rande. The descent from there toward Redondela is scenic, though be alert along the N-550 road sections that connect Porriño, Redondela, and Arcade; traffic can be a hazard. Redondela itself is worth a pause, as it’s where the Central Portuguese Camino merges with the Coastal route, so the path gets noticeably busier from here. You can stock up on food or grab a meal in town, and look out for the 16th-century Casa da Torre, which now doubles as the pilgrim hostel and an art gallery. After Cesantes, Parque Loureiro offers picnic tables and shade, a good spot to rest before the final stretch into Arcade.

Overall the stage is moderately difficult, with around 527 m of elevation gain concentrated in two climbs, the steeper of which comes early. The Tui-to-Redondela section is considered one of the toughest on the entire Portuguese Way, so pace yourself. The payoff is Arcade, a laid-back riverside town of about 2,200 people that also happens to be the oyster capital of Galicia; the seafood here is widely considered the best on the whole route, so don’t skip a plate of oysters. For a drink or bite, Sunset Bar and Coffee is a reliable stop, and Camiño dos Soños is worth ducking into for souvenirs and one of the most unique pilgrim stamps on the Camino.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

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Pontevedra in Galician, derived from the Latin "pontem lateram," means "Old bridge", from the many ancient Roman bridges that once spanned the Leréz river and united the city.  Some of these bridges have collapsed and have been replaced, but the beauty of the collection of bridges remains.  

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Brennan

The trip from Arcade to Pontevedra is the 24th stage in the Portuguese Caminho de Santiago. This stage is only a 7.5 mile trip, but it is one full of history and beauty. We start this part of the journey by crossing the pontesampaio, a bridge that played a role in Galician independence from France. As we continue along crossroads and cross the Ponte Nova, we will begin to walk along an ancient Roman road that was once important for trade, in addition to pilgrimage.

Pontevedra has been an important city since Roman times, serving as a vital port and trade center. Its economic important persisted into and beyond medieval times, acting as a sort of economic capitol for Galicia, even with Santiago de Compostela as its official and spiritual capitol. Today, the prosperity of Pontevedra can be seen in its preserved historic buildings, high quality of life, and its focus on sustainable urbanism. It has won multiple awards for innovation and serves as a model for how cities can survive as communities. Some things that we will notice is that the street sign are all in Galician, there are no cars allowed in the city center or historic wards, and businesses are deep rooted in local connections rather than subduing to global consumerism, which is an impressive feat at a population of 83,320.

Pontevedra's deep ties to the pilgrimage route can be seen in its patron saint, who is known as "Our Lady of Refuge" or " The Divine Pilgrim", who guide pilgrims on their journey to Santiago. In fact, the Church of the Pilgrim Virgin, one of the most notable buildings in Pontevedra, is constructed in the shape of a scallop shell. This historic and spiritual relation to el Camino makes Pontevedra a vital town for pilgrims to visit.

Pontevedra is a great city to explore, with interesting places including:

Pilgrim's Square

Church of La Peregrina/Pilgrim Virgin

Church of San Francisco

Chapel of the Nazarene

Ruins of Santo Domingo at the Provincial Museum of Pontevedra

Royal Basilica of Santa María la Mayor

For its food scene, Pontevedra boasts high quality, fresh seafood, and as such it is a staple of cuisine throughout the city and its restaurants. Alongside its seafood, it is known for its Albariño wine, which has a flavor profile designed for a perfect pairing with said seafood.

Reflection:

The route from Arcade to Pontevedra was quite beautiful, full of cobbled paths, stone walls, and lots of scenic nature. My favorite parts of the route were seeing the old part of the town across Ponte do Burgo, the style of Ponte Sampaio, which reminded me a lot of Ponte de Lima, and how much of the route followed a lovely path along a winding stream. Not that I'm biased, but it's reputation as one of the most beautiful routes was certainly true personally. Unfortunately the main site to see, the Church of the Divine Pilgrim, was under construction, but we still were able to visit the stunning inside, and we could still get a sense of its scallop shell shape. There were many other sites to see, like the ruins of San Domingos, and there was a sense of deep history throughout the city, even with modernization. Pontevedra is easily one of my favorite cities along the route for its balance of the privileges of living in a large, modern city, while still having present history and historical places to see and visit. I can understand how it is seen as a model for other cities. One thing that I did not notice that was a part of my research was the claim that it supports local ties more that global consumerism. I saw many large brands, and there were far more shops than I was expecting, most of them global enterprises. One thing that was certainly local was the seafood, which many of us enjoyed (the scallops being a fan favorite).

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Caldas De Reis, Pontevedra province, Galicia , Spain, Rúa Caldas de Reis, Vigo, Municipality of Vigo, Spain

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Caldas De Reis, Pontevedra province, Galicia, Spain, Rúa Caldas de Reis, Vigo, Municipality of Vigo, Spain

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Caldas De Reis, Pontevedra province, Galicia, Spain, Rúa Caldas de Reis, Vigo, Municipality of Vigo, Spain

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Caldas de Reis is a historic town in the province of Pontevedra, Galicia, renowned for its ancient thermal springs and its strategic location on the Portuguese Way (Camino Portugués) to Santiago de Compostela.

History and Origins

The town’s history is deeply connected with its natural hot springs.

Roman Era: Known as Aquae Celenae by the Romans, it served as an important stop on Route XIX of the Antonine Itinerary. The Romans were the first to formalize the use of its therapeutic waters.

The Royal Connection: Its name, which translates to "Hot Springs of the Kings," stems from the 12th century. It was the birthplace of King Alfonso VII of León and Castile in 1105. His mother, Queen Urraca, frequently stayed in a defensive tower in the town.

Archaeological Wealth: The town is famous for the "Caldas Treasure" (Tesouro de Caldas), one of the most significant Bronze Age gold hoards in Europe, discovered in 1940.

The Thermal Tradition

Caldas de Reis sits on a major geological fault line, causing mineral-rich waters to emerge at temperatures between 40°C and 45°C.

A Burga: This 19th-century public fountain in the town center is a focal point for visitors and pilgrims. It features two lion-headed spouts that discharge hot medicinal water.

Public Footbaths: Near the fountain, there is a public laundry area where pilgrims traditionally soak their feet.

Historic Spas (Balnearios): The town hosts two prominent private spas: Balneario Acuña, a traditional Galician granite building overlooking the Umia River, and Balneario Davila, known for its beautiful bamboo garden.

Key Landmarks and Architecture

Romanesque Churches: * Church of Santa María: A medieval church located right on the Camino path.

Church of Santo Tomás Becket: The only church in Galicia dedicated to the English saint, who purportedly visited the town on his own pilgrimage to Santiago. It was built using stones from the former tower of Queen Urraca.

Roman Bridge: A bridge spanning the Bermaña River, featuring three semicircular arches, which continues to carry pilgrims today.

Botanical Garden and Oak Grove: Declared an Asset of Cultural Interest, this park features over 60 species of trees from five continents and serves as a "green lung" for the town.

Natural Surroundings

Umia River: The river flows through the heart of the town, providing scenic walking paths and a cooling contrast to the hot springs.

Segade Waterfall (Fervenza de Segade): Located about 2 kilometers from the center, this 30-meter waterfall is part of the "Water Route" (Ruta da Auga). Nearby, you can find the ruins of an old hydroelectric plant and several traditional water mills.

Our Hike Details:

May 19, 2026 - 10th Stage – Pontevedra – Caldas de Reis – 22 km (13.6 miles); Accommodation at Hotel Cruceiro

Directions:

We leave Caldas de Reis along some enchanting stretches of the Camino, across the medieval bridge of the Bermaña River and follow a path that leads us to the village of Cruceiro, on an unforgettable stretch through forests and meadows. We pass near the church of Santa Maria de Carracedo and then we will cross a particularly luxuriant landscape along the side of the Valga River continuing to S. Miguel de Valga, where we head to Pontecesures. After crossing the Ulla River we arrive at Padron, the place where, according to legend, the stone ship with the body of the Apostle James (Santiago) was moored. Our day’s walking ends here.

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Padrón is located in the autonomous community of Galicia, and it is our last stop before arriving to Santiago de Compostela. In this ancient Celtic town, the followers of Saint James brought his remains by boat and tied it to a large stone, pedrón, before burying the Apostle in Compostela. The name pedrón, meaning stone, eventually changed to what it is still called today, Padrón, meaning patron.

One of the most unique cultural aspects of Padrón is their small green peppers. In the 16th century, friars brought seeds back from Mexico and grew the peppers in their monastery. The peppers adapted to the region and are now protected by Spanish law with the designation of Protected Designation of Origin. This means that only peppers produced in this region can be called "Pemento de Herbón", variety "Padrón".

Perhaps most famously, Padrón is the birthplace of Rosalía de Castro, a well know poet. She is known for her romantic lyrical style that heavily incorporates her Galician identity. Her house is a museum that is open to visitors, a stop that could be worth visiting when we arrive. Also hailing from Padrón is Nobel Literature Prize winner Camilo José Cela, known for his rich and innovative prose that often explore human vulnerability.

On the route from Caldas de Reis to Padrón, there is a bit of a climb towards the beginning. Galicia is a very wet region, which will be evident with the trees, shrubs, and moss that line the route. There are not many cafes along the trail, but there are some available to stop at. Pilgrims recommend Buen Camino as a good spot to stop for a snack or even lunch.

This is a city rich in history and culture, the perfect place to appreciate how far we will have traveled as we approach Compostela. Even though it is an ancient city, it is very much alive with cultural events and festivals that sustain its cultural significance to this day.

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Santiago de Compostela, Municipality of Santiago de Compostela, Spain

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Santiago de Compostela, Municipality of Santiago de Compostela, Spain

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Santiago de Compostela, Municipality of Santiago de Compostela, Spain

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Santiago de Compostela is the capital of Galicia, as well as our final destination on the Camino de Santiago. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Old Town, with the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela as its focal point. The city blends medieval history with Galician traditions to create a lively and rich atmosphere. Granite streets run throughout Santiago de Compostela, lined with Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque style buildings.

The Praza do Obradoiro is the main square in the city, with the Cathedral, Pazo de Raxoi, and Hostal dos Reis Católicos found there. The Pazo de Raxoi is a palace that was completed in 1766, located in front of the Cathedral. It was commissioned by Archbishop Bartolomé Raxoi e Losada as not only a seminary, but also a choir residence and jail. Today, it is used as a city council building. The Hostal dos Reis was founded in 1499 by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella to function as a royal hospital and shelter for pilgrims completing the Camino de Santiago.

Santiago de Compostela originated in the early 9th century, after the discovery of the tomb of St James the Great in 813 AD. The Camino de Santiago pilgrimage has allowed for great economic growth throughout the city, although the area of Santiago de Compostela is rather small. Over time, it has become a hub for cultural exchange as many pilgrims from different areas across the world visit. The current Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela was constructed in 1078, after the town, except for St James’ tomb, was destroyed in its entirety in 997. Santiago is known for its narrow streets, or rúa, that run throughout the town.

Santiago de Compostela is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the world.

Pilgrims may take many different routes to get here, such as walking from France, or beginning in cities like Sevilla, Lisbon, or Porto in the south of Portugal, but they all have the same goal: to reach Santiago de Compostela. The culmination of history and diversity throughout the area makes it the perfect ending point for any pilgrim, whether religious or not.

PADRON – SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – 25km | 15.5 Miles. We start this last stage by leaving Padron and heading north until reaching the church of Santa Maria de Iria Flávia. It was here that two great Galician writers lived, the poet Rosália de Castro and the Nobel award-winning Camilo José Cela, who was born next door to the church. We continue through Galician villages until the magnificent sanctuary of Nossa Señora da Escravitute. From here, we will reach Rua de Francos following broad streets and narrower shortcuts. We finally start to see Santiago de Compostela, and a bit further, at Agro dos Monteiros, we can see the towers of the Cathedral for the first time. After crossing the Sar River, we continue through the suburbs of the city that lead us to the Faxeira gate, the entrance of the Portuguese Camino in this old city. Through a labyrinth of streets, we continue to Obradoiro Square and to the Cathedral itself, where the Apostle awaits us.