# data[].attributes.body
comp shop today

jersey vs woven

look at a low-end brand,middle ground, and high-end. comp shop look at three brands

contents page, intro, rolls of a garment tech (mind map) , the critical path of a garment, look into the company, swot summary, competitive shop (three or four) , best place to source the fabric from, , sourcing summary, risk assessment (what can go wrong in the garment), risk assessment on the specific product (what stitches ect, what's going to pill), what is a wearer trial, sealing process, labeling requirements

H&m , Zara , Ralph lauren

PETA workshop Sascha Camilli

“animals are not ours to wear”

around 7 million tonnes of cow leather is processed globally every year, 20 empire state buildings. Leather can also come from dogs and cats, dog skin products can come into the EU and England even tho its not legal.

sometimes they are skinned half alive.

in countries where the leather trade is big children are also known to work on the tanning of leather around cancer causing chemicals with no shoes and also sharp knives to cut the fabric.

the leather trade isnt made to put food on someone's plate, the cows are bred just for leather and are often malnourished.

93% of all the damage from the leather production is before the tanning stage.

Pinatex, made from pineapple leaf to create leather.

Vegea uses stuff left over from grapes to make leather

apple leather made by Mabel, used by small brands

Fruitleather Rotterdam Luxtra is made with mango

there is also cork, mushroom leather, cactus leather, and corn leather.

Cork is a naturally regenerative resource, you can take it off the tree without cutting it down it grows back and it also reduces CO2 in the world.

Cactus leather is new from Mexico.

Mushroom leather, Hermes has made a bag out of mushroom leather.

Corn leather comes from a non-food part of the plant, sometimes a bi-product, its resistant and soft.

Animal leather is not plastic-free, it often has a pu coating to stop it from rotting.

Mirum is a plastic-free vegan leather cover, stella McCartney may have worked with it.

Bio-fabricated leather, Modern meadow.

Hugo boss and Chanel have worked with Pineapple leather.

Wool.

Australia and New Zealand are the biggest wool producers, thats where a lot of greenhouse gasses come from.

Wool hurts animals, shirring hurts the sheep. we have bred sheep to produce 10 times more wool than usual. Fly strike happens to sheep, due to waste staying on their wool. So there is a procedure where they cut the skin on the sheep's backside to make sure the skin is flat to avoid flystirke however this can get infected.

Cashmere. These animals are pinned down and shaved.

what can we do instead of using petroleum-derived wool. we can use hemp, organic cotton, soybean, plant wool or tencel

recycled materials, brave gentlemen's mens first vegan brand. wool made from recycled plastic.

Mohair, comes from goats

angora comes from rabbits, they live in cramped dirty cages. they were kept in there and then had their hair ripped out whilst being pinned down. They would often die of heart attacks.

Down. They are kept in big units together (ducks, geese) where they are plucked and held down till they are featherless. live plucking is still used.

Exotic skins, are only used by high-end brands mostly accessories. It takes 3 crocodiles to make one Hermes bag. they are killed by a stab to the nape however it can take up to two hours for them to die.

The snakes are blown up in order to stretch their skin and then killed. for brands like Louis Vuiton.

Fur, around 100 million animals are killed for fur every year. They often live in cages so small they cant turn around. (mink)

85% are kept in cages. 15% are caught in the wild using jaw traps. mothers have been known to chew off their own limbs to try and get free for their babies.

California and Israel have both banned the importation and production of fur.

England was the first country to ban the production of fur.

Covid outbreaks are typical on fur farms.

There is now vegan fur, there is a fur made from corn and it also releases less greenhouse gases in production.

PETA approved vegan scheme for cruelty-free shopping.

vegan often means there is a loop hole in the ban

cruelty-free is different from vegan, even if they say they don't test on animals others may test on them.

vegan means no animal ingredients not cruelty-free.

# data[].attributes.body
Pros-

Shorter lead times, quicker to get to the manufacturer. Less expensive to import, no big import fees like there would be getting fabric from East Asia. Higher end garments, the fabric from Europe is more likely to be a better quality due to the fabric provided by them being better. Europe's material manufacturers are more innovated than those in East Asia, even though they have copied the changes they aren't up to the same status as Europe. Less Co2 as less travelling needed for the resources. More control over the fabric.

Cons-

Its much more expensive due to the workers being paid more and the quality standard being higher. One of the cons of using a different country as a manufacturer is the time zones.

# data[].attributes.body
Why is a good relationship with the supplier important?

Having a good relationship with the supplier could lead to favours or benefits for the company. For example there might be a smaller waiting time for the fabric or there may be better deals provided to the buyers to lower the costs. It also helps to build the trust between the companies, for example if the fabric manufacturer know that they will pay on time and are polite they may be more likely to work with them again.

Suppliers KPI

KPI-Key performance indicator

Quantifiable- can be measure in quantity

Subjective- can effect it determining on different factors.

# data[].attributes.body
What is a garment techs skills?

Garment techs need many skills in order to complete their daily tasks. They need to know about the current fashion climate, what's in trend, what's predicted to be in trend etc. They need to keep up with the exchange rates and economy, this will help when figuring out prices and how much the garment will cost, how much they should sell it for. Communication skills are specifically needed as they are needed to communicate to a range of people, who may not specifically know the technicalities as well as them. Sustainability and Ethics are also a key part of the job, sustainability has never been so important. As a garment tech they would need to know where their fabric is coming from, the impacts of that fabric, how to use more sustainable suppliers etc.

# data[].attributes.body
Today we worked on networking with our LinkedIn and what would make our profile stand out to future employers.

https://www.linkedin.com/in/yasmin-charlton-092161292/

# data[].attributes.body
Today we worked Clo3d which is a growing technology used in industry. Some benefits of using Clo3d is that there is less waste as samples aren't cut out as regularly as they can be created digitally first. It also shows the designer how it would fit on the body so therefore if it fit weird they could fix it before developing the pattern.

We started off with the basic skills of learning how to use Clo3d such as segment and free sewing. Segment was a lot easier to use than free sewing as you could use it to sew full sections together rather than having to select individual notches. However it wouldn't be useful for sewing that may be different to a straight stitch.

# data[].attributes.body
My findings

For my comp shop I went to Zara, Ralph Lauren and Valentino.

I choose these shops as when researching I found that they are some of the biggest competitors of Ralph Lauren.

I also decided to specialise in Menswear for this project as I already own a lot of menswear and would be interested to look more into how they are made and how their production line works.

I went to Selfridges first and looked around Valentino. There wasn't much to look at in the Valentio department at Selfridges it was very small and did not contain many garments. I also could not find any Jersey pieces within their current collection. The only piece I could find that was similar to Jersey was a wool jumper. I spoke to the employee running the department and he said they have a lot of woven pieces currently but not any jersey. Which I think may be due to the higher prices, Jersey isnt the more durable style of fabric. I also asked The employee about any current promotions they may do for the Christmas period, There isn't any specifically for Valentino however the company is often included in the 20% discount for regular shoppers around Christmas.

I then moved on to Ralph Lauren, the first thing I noticed about Ralph Lauren was that they had a bigger department than Valentino, it was also a lot more colourful and had a bigger variation of clothing. Whereas Valentino only really had shirts and blazers, Ralph Lauren had T-shirts, formal shirts, roll neck jumpers, etc. However, I did also notice when speaking to the employee at Ralph Lauren they weren't as friendly or helpful as Valentino were.

I then went to Zara, I found Zara the most boring to look at. It was very bland lots of bright lights and dull colours for the clothes. The displays also weren't as extravagant as Selfridges which was expected due to it being a high street brand. The men's department was also quite hidden down a small escalator. Zaras clothes were also my least favourite out of all the brands due to the poor quality.

When looking at all the Products I checked the seams, the seams in both the Ralph Lauren and Zara jumper were both Closed. I expected better seams from Ralph Lauren Rather than closed seams due to the costs of the product, I didn't expect the same finish as a high street brand such as Zara. Whereas when I looked at Valentino at their Cotton zip up they had flat fell seams on a lot of the stitching.

# data[].attributes.body
Top 10 exporting countries are

Spain, United States, Italy, Germany, Turkey, China, China (Hong Kong), Bangladesh, Vietnam, India.

Spain- Textile and textile machine manufacturing is one of the largest industries in Spain. They range from spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing.

China (Hong Kong)- best known for dyed and printed fabric, also one of the biggest manufacturers and exporters of cotton spinning, denim weaving, knit-to-shape knitting, and also fine-gauge cotton knitting.

USA-best known for raw materials, fabrics, yarns apparel, and home furnishings.

Turkey-Have the capability to fulfill a high standard and broad range of products.

Italy- covers a wide range of fibres with cotton, linen,silk and wool.

India- is made of two segments, handloom, handicraft and sericulture which is done on a smaller practise with traditional methods. The second one is more modern machinery.

Vietnam- Has a diverse supply chain, low labor costs, and industry focuses on specialisation.

Bangladesh- Powerhouse for apparel manufacturing, low labor costs, vast workforce.

Germany- Biggest exporters of knitted cloth, manmade fibre, synthetic yarn and machinery.

China- low-cost production, raw material quality, industrial structure, modern high-tech machinery, label development and work in process domestic consumer and global market.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
In the age of sluggishness, where economic growth is a daunting task, there has been one bright spot - Export Markets. And the export market of textile and apparel has always been of the rise.

Conquering industry challenges, the textile is one of the well-established industries in the competitive market place.

Countries are chasing textile and apparel exports for numerous benefits - boost local, state and federal economy, enhanced domestic competitiveness, diversification, and to gain global market share. Click to tweet

Listed below are the top 10 countries based on their exported value in 2018. Let's look at these countries based on their ranking from 10 to 1.

10) Spain

The Textile and textile machine manufacturing is one of the largest industries in Spain. Ranging from spinning, weaving clothing to dyeing and finishing, they manufacture all kind of machinery. Spain is the 10th largest exporter with a value of USD 20.20 Bn. Spain's Textile trade and creation have also made it a prime area for fashion. And is continuously moving forward to reach new heights in textile and fashion world.

9) Hong-Kong, China

Textile industry of Hong-Kong is well-known for its dyed and printed fabric. Also, the country is one of the biggest manufacturer and exporter of cotton spinning, denim weaving, knit-to-shape panel knitting, and fine-gauge cotton knitting. With the exported value of USD 20.43 Bn, Hong-Kong is the 9th largest textile and apparel exporter of the world. Hong-Kong has been moving up the market value scale catering to the domestic and international market's demands with Original Design Manufacturer (ODM) and Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM).

8) United State of America

The United States is a globally competitive manufacturer and exporter of textile raw materials , fabrics, yarns, apparel, home furnishing, and other textile products. The United States is the 8th largest textile exporter with the exported value of USD 27.14 Bn. The strength of US textile lies in Non-Woven, Specialty and Industrial Fabrics, Medical Textiles and Protective Apparel. Also, the US is technically very advance in Textile and Apparel sector which is making companies invest in the US textile market.

7) Turkey

Textile and Apparel industry of Turkey has an important role in world textile trade with the capability to meet the high standard and a broad range of products. Turkish production and export of the industry have shifted from low value-added commodities to high value-added manufactured items and fashionable goods. The export value of Turkey textile industry has reached a value of USD 27.56 Bn. Turkey is booming the textile and apparel industry with amazing design capacity, hi-tech solutions, dynamic and flexible production capacity, and concern about quality, health, and environment.

6) Italy

The Italian textile industry is preeminent to apparel and fashion world. Italy covers the entire range of fibers, with cotton, linen, silk, and wool. Italian textile industry is strongly export-oriented with an export value of USD 36.57 Bn. Industry shows a more solid production structure with innovative technologies. Product innovation of Italy is entirely focused on the technical performance of fabrics and yarns to extend the areas of application. Italy is producing a large range of E-textile with new technologies to provide benefits to the wearer.

5) India

The textile and apparel industry in India is among the world's largest producers and exports. Indian Textile Industry has broadly classified into two segments: First, the unorganized sector consists of handloom, handicraft, and sericulture, which are operated on a small scale practicing traditional tools and methods. The second is the organized one which applies modern machinery and techniques such as economies of scale. High-cost products add cost pressure on the value chain, making yarn, fabric and apparel exports less competitive. India stands at 5th largest countries with an export turnover of $37.11 Bn. India is using intensive technology for mass production of textile products - spinning, weaving, processing, and apparel.

4)Vietnam

The Textile industry of Vietnam has benefited producers and buyers diversify their supply chains, backed by its low labor costs and industry focus on specialization, modernization and increasing value addition. With an export turnover of USD 37.93 Bn, Vietnam is the top 4th global exporters of

textile and apparel. The country's major focus is producing items with high competitiveness in the global market and improving its garment and textile supply chain. Vietnam's textile and apparel consumption in the both domestic and global market make deeper inroads into the textile market.

3) Bangladesh

In recent decades, Bangladesh has emerged as a powerhouse for apparel manufacturing. The country's strengths are low labor cost and vast workforce. Advance technology and High-quality products have attracted many major global retail brands to Bangladesh. The country is a leading textile exporter with a turnover of USD 38.73 Bn. Also, the vertical capacities of Bangladesh, which helps global to ensure more transparency and coordination in their supply chain. The textile industry of Bangladesh is growing rapidly with the bulk order of value-added items of big global brands.

2) Germany

Textile and clothing industry of Germany has a long history of manufacturing, innovation, and flexibility. Germany is one of the biggest exporters of knitted apparel cloth, manmade fibre, synthetic yarn, and machinery with the export value of $38.99 Bn. The country is world's 2 nd largest textile exporter and well known for high quality products and accessories of textile and clothing in the world. Over recent decades, the has transformed its production for low-cost high volume to high quality products.

1) China

The textile industry of China is the largest manufacturer and exporter in the world with an export turnover of $266.41 Bn. The factors driving the industry are - low-cost production, raw material quality, industrial structure, modern high-tech machinery, label development and work process in domestic consumer and global . In China, six sub-industries of the textile industry include cotton, chemical fiber, wool textile and dyeing finishing industry, textile - printing & dyeing finishing industry, linen textile, and silk textile & finishing industry, finished textile product manufacturing as well as knitted and woven product industry. The output volume of China textile industry accounts for more than half of the global market.

These countries are the drivers of textile and apparel market across the globe. Major players are bringing evolution to the textile and apparel industry. With high-tech innovation, these countries are shaping the world of textile and apparel.

The future of textile looks promising because of strong domestic consumption as well as export demand.

To know more about the textile trading - Subscribe to .

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.keywords[]
- fibre2fashion
- texpro blog
- textile and apparel industry
- exporting countries
- textile exporting countries
- global market share
- fashion brands and retailers
- apparel brands and retailers
- global textile market
- textile and fashion world
- fashion blog
- textile blog
- apparel blog

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Top 10 Exporting Countries of Textile and Apparel Industry

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Conquering industry challenges, the textile is one of the well-established industries in the competitive market place. Countries are chasing textile and apparel exports for numerous benefits - boost local, state and federal economy, enhanced domestic competitiveness, diversification, and to gain global market share.

# data[].attributes.body
Today in class we worked on group work, we all picked a garment to fit and measured it both on and off the mannequin.

# data[].attributes.body
All Saints master class

Atelier team- design team

Manual/flat pattern cutting is good for coats jackets shirts

CAD pattern cutting is good for repeated elements and if it's being sent to multiple factories.

modeling/draping good organic way for styles of asymmetric

All Saints have signed up with the BRC Race To Zero they want to reach net zero by 2040 including not only their manufacturing but also the stores, product packaging and heaters in stores.

Hows Clo3d being used to help this?

They have parametric avatars they can be stretched, changed, and updated. Matched with in how models, review grading.

It can also be used to check styles and see if its fit for purpose, using tension and pressure mapping.

Tools of the trade

Browzwear

Blender

Adobe creative cloud

Style 3d

Clo virtual fashion

By creating a product on Clo3d first you can put the product on the tech pack to ensure the factory knows what it looks like.

You can look at print placement and you can also look at however many prints in the style without wastage.

Benefits of 3d to product development workflow.

More design choice, time-saving reduced development duration, lower emissions sending samples back and forth, enhanced visual communication of a style, less consumption of raw materials, increased output, lowered cost, exclusive options, prepared for new categories.

Process by using Clo3d can reduce a days worth of work, it can reduce the time period from 3 days to 2 days.

They are now using waste fabric to create slip dresses to promote sustainability and want to look into using waste fabric more often to work towards their net zero.

Compositive photography, creating the pose and lighting on Clo3d to reduce time needed on photo shoots.

WFLE seeling from Clo3d WW sales 1,200 units in two seasons.

Future uses of clo3d

Customer-facing content- potentially showcase the work on Instagram.

Fit to order- customers able to design or work on their own stuff and upload it and have it fit to them.

Virtual showroom- will become more popular in the next 15 years. Instead of having to go to a shop have your own visual showroom at home.

AI models and in-game products game-play. For example, Valentino products are featured in Animal Crossing.

# data[].attributes.body
Today we planned our comp shop before completing it in the afternoon. We picked the shops we were going to visit and conduct research on, what sort of questions we wanted to ask and what we wanted to observe about the physical stores. I decided my main retailer was going to be Ralph Lauren as I have always liked Ralph Laurens men's wear however my knowledge on it is limited. I wanted to look at how sizing works, how a shop's layout may differ in the men's department, and the different colours/ products available. I also decided to go for Zara and Valentino as they are both competitors of Ralph Lauren

# data[].attributes.body
Today we worked on tying up the loose ends on project 1A. We worked on our fabric swatch books and made sure we had completed our seams that need to feature in our tech book. These seams include an open, closed,French, flat-fell and a Hong-Kong seam.

# data[].attributes.body
Ralph Lauren's sustainability score was both surprising and not surprising. I expected better from a large cooperate brand, instead of them having a number of things to improve from.

Something that I was extremely shocked at was how unwilling they are as a brand to provide any sort of evidence for the changes they have made in emissions, recycling and the improved payment scheme. It definitely made me question how genuine these schemes are or whether they're similar to green washing scandals.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Ralph Lauren is owned by Ralph Lauren Corporation.

Our "Planet" rating evaluates brands based on the environmental policies in their supply chains, from carbon emissions and wastewater to business models and product circularity. Here we rate Ralph Lauren "It's a Start". These are a few factors influencing its score:

It uses few lower-impact materials.

It's set a science based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions in both its direct operations and supply chain, and it claims it's on track.

While it offers clothing recycling to consumers, it doesn't report on its results.

It's set a target to eliminate hazardous chemicals by 2025 but there's no evidence it is on track.

Workers' rights are central to our "People" rating, which assess brands' policies and practices on everything from child labour to living wages and gender equality. Here we rate Ralph Lauren "Not Good Enough". These are a few factors influencing its score:

None of its supply chain is certified by crucial labour standards that help ensure worker health and safety, living wages, and other rights.

It received a score of 41-50% in the 2022 Fashion Transparency Index.

It has a basic policy to support diversity and inclusion in its direct operations and supply chain.

It claims to have a program to improve wages but there's no evidence it ensures its workers are paid living wages in most of its supply chain.

During the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, it disclosed some policies to protect workers in its supply chain from the virus.

Brands' animal welfare policies and, where applicable, how well they trace their animal-derived products are the focus of our "Animals" rating. Here we rate Ralph Lauren "Not Good Enough". These are a few factors influencing its score:

It has a formal policy aligned with the Five Domains of animal welfare.

It appears to use leather, exotic animal skin, shearling, exotic animal hair, decorative feathers, and silk.

Responsible Wool Standard certifies some of the wool it sources.

Responsible Down Standard certifies the down it uses.

It doesn't appear to use fur or angora.

It traces some animal-derived materials to the first production stage.

Based on all publicly available information we've reviewed, we rate Ralph Lauren "Not Good Enough" overall.

Last updated July 2023

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Ralph Lauren is owned by Ralph Lauren Corporation.Our "Planet" rating evaluates brands based on the environmental policies in their supply chains, from carbon emissions and wastewater to business models and product circularity. Here we rate Ralph Lauren "It's a Start".

# data[].attributes.body
For my initial mind map for project 1b I looked into different research points I wanted to speak about and what brands i wanted to look into. I decided on Ralph Lauren as a main brand as I have always been interested in the brand and own a few pieces of clothing but do not know much information about them.

# data[].attributes.body
We had a lesson in which we looked at the biggest countries for supplying and long and short lead suppliers.

# data[].attributes.body
I wanted to take some photos of the inside of the store in Zara. Compared to Selfridges I found the men's department much smaller than the women's department. It also seemed like it had just been stuffed out of the way and hidden were a lot of the womens was highly advertised in the windows.

# data[].attributes.body
Ralph Lauren's knitted blend of 80% wool and 20% cashmere. Was advertised to be certified by the RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) from farms independently certified to animal welfare.

# data[].attributes.body
Valentino's sales assistant was much happier to help me than Ralph Lauren were when I asked about the current christmas promotions they were running. They told me that they do not have any specific promotions for the brand but will be added into the Selfridges pre christmas discount.

# data[].attributes.body
As expected Valentino's work was completed to a very high standard. The seams on the side were flatfell seams and most of the others were open seams.

# data[].attributes.headline
Ellen Macarthur Circular Design for fashion

# data[].attributes.subject
Ellen Macarthur Circular Design for fashion

# data[].attributes.body
This is a photo of the cutting process of the pattern pieces at fashion enterprise, they use a long mechanical knife to cut through multiple layers of fabric.

# data[].attributes.body
This is a photo i took of all the different desks and set ups they have in the factory. They have a section for each step of the garment which speeds up the production time rather than only one garment being made at a time.

# data[].attributes.headline
My Personal Professional Development ideas

# data[].attributes.subject
My Personal Professional Development ideas

# data[].attributes.body
This is a mind map of some ideas I have for my future. I have many aspirations, when I leave college I want to go straight into industry as a junior garment tech. Id like to then work my way up the job ladder and eventually work on my own designs, perhaps even my own business. Id like to work for a smaller company one thats slower and takes sustainability into consideration more. Id also like to travel, I want to attend fashion week.

# data[].attributes.body
We also had a go at creating our own garments on clo3d, so that we could play around with the different tools and try to understand how they worked better. This first dress I have attached I couldn't get to work at all, however reflecting on it i believe the stitching may have been diagonal on the body causing the garment to twist.

# data[].attributes.body
This was the dress after i tried to stich both the back and front together using the segment sewing tool. I believe i may have accidentally twisted it whilst sewing it so there was no room for her body to fit.

# data[].attributes.body
Here I managed to make a successful-looking garment on the mannequin however when you look at the pattern you can see it wouldn't work in everyday life as it wouldn't fit around a body. I would need to play around with the software to develop my knowledge on digital patterns as I found it confusing.

# data[].attributes.body
In this image we had to fix the faults within the dress using the numerous tools we have just learnt how to use. Some examples of this was that the stitching didn't line up on the hem and there was a whole in the sleeves, which i fixed by editing the sewing.

# data[].attributes.body
This is another garment i made, although this time i made it relevant to my current project based on menswear. I made a boxy fitting black t-short similar to the ones i had been looking at on my comp shop.

# data[].attributes.body
We also worked on fixing this little girls jacket, in which the stitching was twisted and the collar wasnt attached properly. I found this one quite confusing and did need assistance with the collar.

# data[].attributes.body
Today we started reconstructing our shirts for the white shirt project. I began by restitching the darts into the back of the shirt and attaching the side pannels. I sewed the princess seams in which I found relatively easy as I have made garments before with princess seams in.

# data[].attributes.body
These are the measurements I took for a dress we were fitting. I took these measurements whilst it was on the mannequin. I then took measurements of the garment layed out flat.

# data[].attributes.body
SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Oppertunties

Threats

Political

Economical

Social

Technical

Environmental

Legal

Ethical

# data[].attributes.body
Lab testing is an essential part of the garment as it helps ensure that the clothes are up to the highest standard.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Lab testing allows brands, retailers, and vendors to test their textiles and apparel for various factors, including physical and chemical properties, such as colourfastness, durability, shrinkage, flammability, flame retardancy, and more.

Also known as textile testing, fabric testing or garment testing, lab testing is critical in today's global supply chain, where brands and retailers rely on suppliers worldwide to manufacture their products to their specifications.

Some common items that are tested include:

During textile testing, auditors evaluate the products against the required standards and regulations by stretching, rubbing, and washing the fabric to check for any defects or irregularities. It can involve testing specific elements like zippers, buttons, and other fastenings or the entire product itself.

Either way, lab testing is an indispensable quality control tool for brands, retailers, and vendors who want to ensure their products meet the highest quality standards.

Why is lab testing important in the apparel industry?

Lab testing is important in the apparel industry because it helps ensure that products meet safety, quality, and legal requirements. Not only does it help brands and retailers detect problems with their products before they reach the market, but it also allows them to ensure that their products meet consumer expectation.

Top 3 reasons why lab testing is so important for textiles and apparel:

1. Quality assurance: Companies invest a lot of money in production, so they must e sure the end product meets the specified quality standards. Lab testing helps identify any physical or chemical defects in the fabric that could result in a sub-par product.

2. Compliance: Lab testing helps brands and retailers adhere to global standards, such as , en ISO, , and . It also ensures that products meet the applicable safety regulations for their intended use.

3. Avoiding the risk of liability or recall: It's essential to identify and rectify any problems with the product before it reaches the market and decrease the risk of liability or recall due to faulty material or manufacturing defects. Lab testing helps brands and retailers detect potential product issues before they become a problem.

How does lab testing usually work?

Brands or retailers typically conduct in-house textile testing or forward their textile and apparel samples to a third-party testing laboratory, where the products are tested against the relevant standards and regulations.

The process usually starts with random sampling, followed by physical testing such as tear strength, abrasion, or pilling tests. Depending on the product, chemical testing may also be required to check for any hazardous substances that might be present in the material.

Once all tests are completed, results are compiled in a report which can then be used as evidence that the product meets the required standards and can be safely used by consumers. Any discrepancies between test results and specifications are usually highlighted in a report, allowing brands, retailers and their vendors to take corrective measures.

All lab tests fall into two categories: quality and safety. Quality tests relate to consumer satisfaction, while safety tests prevent products from jeopardizing the health and safety of the consumer.

Most of the time, lab testing follows a standardized process to ensure accuracy and consistency. However, brands may also request additional tests if they have specific requirements that need to be met.

Different types of lab testing in the textile and apparel industries

The most in the garment industry or textile industry are:

Breaking strength testing

This test method determines the breaking strength of a fabric's yarn. Woven fabrics are tested for their strength in the warp and weft directions, while knit fabrics are only tested in one direction. A breaking strength test assesses not only the baseline strength of the fabric but also its ability to withstand wash cycles, sunlight, UV radiation, and everyday wear and tear.

Bursting strength testing

Bursting strength tests measure the amount of pressure a fabric can withstand before it bursts or breaks. It helps ensure that fabrics are suitable for making products such as bags, backpacks, and other items with high-pressure points where seams need to be extra strong.

Abrasion resistance testing

Abrasion resistance testing helps assess the fabric's ability to withstand repeated rubbing or scraping. Lab technicians test abrasion resistance by repeatedly or continuously rubbing a fabric against another material until it breaks. This test method is particularly important for garments and fabrics exposed to wear and tear, such as jackets, bags, upholstery, and footwear. The most common abrasion resistance test is the Martindale test , where technicians rub a piece of fabric against a wool or cotton weave.

Pilling testing

Pilling is one of the most common problems faced by garments and fabrics. Pilling occurs when fibres become tangled or matted together, creating small balls of fabric on the surface. Pilling tests help assess a fabric's resistance to this phenomenon by subjecting it to wear and tear over a set period of time.

Colour fastness testing

Colour fastness tests measure a fabric's ability to retain its colour and resist fading when exposed to light, water, air, or rubbing. Colour fastness tests help garment manufacturers and retailers determine which fabrics are suitable for making clothes that need to retain their colour over time. The most commonly used tests are for wet crocking and for lightfastness. These tests involve exposing the fabric to different types of light, water and washing conditions and then assessing the colour retention afterwards.

Flammability testing

Flammability tests help assess the fire resistance of a fabric or garment. Tests check the flame spread, flammability (the ease at which a fabric catches fire), and afterglow time to help determine the level of fire resistance. Some product categories requiring these tests include sleepwear, upholstery fabrics, curtains, carpets, and rugs.

Chemical testing

Chemical testing ensures that fabrics are free from toxic or dangerous substances that could otherwise harm consumers. Lab testing for chemicals like phthalates, heavy metals such as lead, and harmful dyes helps companies minimize the risk of unsafe products. Chemical tests can also detect dye transfer and the presence of allergens in fabrics. Finding harmful substances or restricted substances in fabrics can result in hefty fines for manufacturers, so chemical testing is essential to protect both consumers and brands.

Top 3 parameters for testing

While the type of tests will depend on the product, three key parameters should be tested in all garments: fabric construction, dimensional stability, and colorfastness.

These tests assess the fabric's integrity, ability to withstand wear and tear, and resistance to fading or discolouration.

Fabric construction

All garment industry manufacturers must test their products' fabric construction, including their strength, durability, and uniformity. Picks per inch (PPI) and ends per inch (EPI) are two methods of testing the construction of fabrics. PPI tests measure the number of threads per inch in a fabric's warp and weft, while EPI tests measure the number of threads per inch in a fabric's warp or weft.

Fabric construction tests can identify inconsistencies in the fabric, such as weak or thick spots, and ensure that it maintains its shape and size.

Dimensional stability

A common problem with many fabrics is that they shrink or stretch when exposed to heat, moisture, and different types of detergents. Dimensional stability tests measure the fabric's resistance to these changes. These tests involve subjecting the fabric to different conditions, such as washing, heat and humidity, and then measuring its size and shape before and after the test. Most textile manufacturers use a standard test protocol called to measure the dimensional stability of fabrics.

Colorfastness

An important parameter in assessing the quality of fabrics is their colour fastness. Often, fabrics can be prone to fading or discolouration when exposed to light, water, or detergents. Colorfastness tests measure the fabric's resistance to these changes and involve subjecting it to different conditions before assessing its colour retention. Brands and retailers should always conduct colour fastness tests to ensure their fabrics retain their colour and vibrancy over time.

How lab testing can improve product quality

Lab testing is an essential part of the production and product development process, as it helps brands and retailers ensure that their products meet the highest quality standards.

Lab testing catches defects early on and identifies any potential hazards in the fabric or garment. By testing fabrics and garments before they are released to the market, companies can ensure that they provide consumers with safe, reliable products. And most importantly, lab testing helps protect brands and retailers from costly recalls or product liability claims.

Lab testing is a complex process that requires expertise and knowledge of the industry. It's important to choose a lab partner with experience in testing fabrics and garments and the necessary technology and resources to ensure the accuracy of test results and reduce the risk of costly mistakes.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Textile Lab Testing: Definition and Importance | Inspectorio

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Know what textile lab testing is and its importance in the textile and apparel industries. Learn more about the top three key parameters for testing fabrics.

# data[].attributes.body
Horizontal lines, Shade variation, dirt/stains, uneven dyeing, drop stitches, misprinting,creasemarks, barre, neps/nots, abrasion marks, splicing, holes, defective selvage, snags, thick place/ thin place, bowing and skewing, needle lines, coarse pick, coarse end, broken pick, broken end, missing end, filling bar

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Your customers should never discover fabric defects in any of your products. Knowing these defects will ensure they never surprise you or your customers.

As a garment importer touring your supplier's factory, you likely have one thing on your mind: the anticipation of customer satisfaction as they buy an item from your product line.

But there's a problem.

The "quality" fabric from your supplier doesn't meet your standards. In fact, it has a lot of problems. Fabric inspection reveals countless defects ranging from drop stitches to color shading variation.

The scale of defects makes it clear the garment manufacturer will have to cut around the issues to use the fabric, wasting material in the process.

Where do these kinds of fabric defects come from? And how can you prevent them from negatively impacting fabric quality ( related: How MMI Textiles Improved Fabric Quality to Retain Key Customers [case study])?

The 4-point system is the industry standard for evaluating fabric quality in the inspection industry. This system assigns penalty points to a roll of fabric according to defect size, quality and significance.

But you must understand the different types of fabric defects to look for before you can use the 4-point system. Read on or click the links below to jump to different sections to learn more about each of these fabric defects.

1. Horizontal lines

This fabric defect is defined by irregular lines that run from side to side. Horizontal lines are generally caused by:

Faults in the bobbin (the barrel used to hold yarn in place)

Irregular thread tension

Causes and prevention of horizontal lines

Preventing the appearance of horizontal lines in fabric is quite straightforward. Regularly replace the bobbin and frequently check thread tension and positioning.

2. Shade variation

One of the more obvious visual defects that can be found on raw textiles, shade variation is defined by a difference in depth of shade and color from roll to roll or piece to piece. Shade variation in fabric is caused by:

Mixing of fabrics used in production

Variations in the production process with regard to time and speed

Improper cutting, bundling and/or numbering

Unequal fabric stretching

Causes and prevention of shade variation

Using the same base material and set of parameters for each production lot can effectively prevent shade variation.

When visiting a factory that manufactures raw textiles, it's critical to ensure workers are only combining garments of the same color and not taking shortcuts when cutting and bundling. Properly numbering textile types prevents mistakenly combining cuts that vary in shade.

3. Dirt/stains

Stains are fairly common among dyed textiles and are defined as spots or patches of differing color. Textiles are never truly safe from stains because they can occur anytime during or after production if they're not kept in an area with adequate protection.

Stains can appear on fabrics from just about any source. Dirt from the factory floor, oil from machinery and dyes are all known sources. Stains are relatively easy to identify and prevent so long as suppliers are vigilant about fabric quality.

Causes and prevention of dirt/stains

Your manufacturer can prevent stains during production by regularly cleaning production machines and equipment to ensure no random oils, grease or dyes make their way onto the textile.

Wrapping the finished rolls of fabric in plastic and storing them in a separate area away from the dying area can help avoid post-production stains.

4. Uneven dyeing/printing/dye marks

Dye marks are irregular patches on the surface of raw textiles. Dye marks are typically the result of:

Low quality base fabric

Improper leveling agents

Incorrect pH in the production process

Dye machine entanglement

Causes and prevention of dyeing/printing/dye marks

Ensuring there are no initial problems with the base fabric prior to stitching can help prevent dye marks. Any issues missed will be present in later production processes.

Other preventative measures include maintaining the correct pH level, using an appropriate dying agent and using a backup power generator to ensure production machines don't shut down during use.

5. Drop stitches

One of the most common quality issues found in raw textiles, drop stitches are holes or missed stitches that appear randomly in the fabric. Drop stitches are typically caused by:

Incorrect set-up of yarn carriers

Slubs and knots

Yarn overfeeding or underfeeding

Loose stitching during the production process

Causes and prevention of drop stitching

Checking the yarn carrier and any other machines to verify they're set to the right tension during production can prevent drop stitches. You can minimize the occurrence of drop stitching in your fabric or textile by regulating the yarn feed rate.

Resetting the pattern chain can fix this issue.

6. Misprinting, off printing or absence of printing

Misprint defects are only relevant to printed fabrics. Misprint is when the print of the fabric does not match your specified design. This is usually displayed in one of the following ways:

Colors and/or patterns are completely or partially missing

Colors and patterns are incorrectly positioned relative to each other

Causes and prevention of misprinting

Misprints are most often the result of:

Wrong dyeing recipe

Wrong leveling agent

Incorrect dye combinations in lots

Improper scouring of grey fabric

Implementing uniform dyeing, leveling and scouring processes can help prevent misprinting.

If you're sourcing a printed fabric, make sure to provide clear specifications regarding the colors and patterns of your printed fabric to your factory. Consider providing pantone color numbers and design files as a guide for your supplier.

7. Crease marks

A crease mark is a visible deformation in fabric. A crease mark differs from a crease streak, as it's unlikely to appear for an entire roll. Rather, it appears in just one spot on the fabric.

If final pressing cannot restore fabric to the original condition, a crease mark will be left on the final product. Discoloration can also be a problem associated with this fabric defect.

Causes and prevention of crease mark

Crease marks often happen when fabric passes through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process. Creasing is inevitable as fabric is fed through machines in rope form. But if properly handled, crease marks should not be permanent.

Crease marks can be caused by:

Inadequate preparation, relaxation or bulking of fabric

Poor quality of fabric: a tight construction, high twist yarns or dense weight

Poor suitability of machine: not moving folds properly

Incorrect loading of fabric into machine, resulting in twisted or knotted rope

Excessively rapid heating or cooling rates

Along with rectifying these issues, using anti-crease agents during the scouring process prior to dyeing can help prevent crease marks.

8. Barre

A barre is an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes.

Barre will typically appear as a horizontal streak of light or dark bars running the width of the fabric. The bars must appear in a repetitive pattern to be considered barre. Barre is typically found parallel to the filling of woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.

Barre is usually not detected until after the processing of fabric at the end of production.

Causes and prevention of barre

Barre is a result of physical, optical or dye differences in yarns or geometric differences in fabric structure. Any combination of these differences can cause this fabric defect.

Like many fabric defects, it's easier to prevent barre than to try and rectify it after production. Consistency in raw material organization and labeling can help prevent mix-ups leading to barre, as well as continual equipment maintenance. Following a First In First Out (FIFO) inventory system can help ensure consistent material flow and usage.

9. Neps/knots

Neps are small, tightly tangled knot-like masses of unorganized fibers that form a pinhead shape. These knots are usually comprised of dead or immature fibers.

Neps can be categorized into three types:

Biological: Found in raw materials, these neps contain foreign material such as seed coat fragments, leaf or stem materials. The manufacturer can usually remove them through wet processing.

Mechanical: Found in ginned lint, card web, yams and cloth, these neps are largely a result of mechanical processing.

White speck neps: Generally not visible until dyeing, white speck neps contain immature clusters of fibers and are considered the most severe type of neps.

Causes and prevention of neps

Neps are caused when spools of yarn are tied together. This might be a result of:

Accumulation of fly and fluff on machinery

Poor lint cleaning

Poor carding and incomplete removal of neps before processing

To prevent neps and knots, ensure proper maintenance and cleaning of machinery and roller clearers. Neps can be removed through combing before processing, so early detection of neps is critical to preventing neps in finished fabrics.

10. Abrasion marks

An abrasion mark is a discolored area damaged by friction or rubbing. Abrasion marks are sometimes also referred to as chafe marks or bruised places.

Causes and prevention of abrasion marks

Chafing or impact with a hard or rough surface usually causes abrasion marks. For instance, scratches on the breast beam of the loom might cause chafing.

Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing. Fiber, yarn and fabric properties and finishing processes are the main factors that determine abrasion resistance.

Using fabrics that are more abrasion resistant can help reduce abrasion marks. Nylon is generally regarded as having the best abrasion resistance, followed by polyester.

11. Splicing

Splicing is the overlapping of the cut ends of two pieces of fabric (the end of one length of fabric and the beginning of another) to ensure continuous spreading. Splicing is necessary as one roll of fabric finishes and the next is taken into use.

But these overlapping ends of fabric produce a waste material in manufacturing. Splicing losses can vary up to five percent of total fabric usage. Importers can ensure greater manufacturing efficiency by minimizing splicing in their fabric.

Many importers assign four penalty points under the 4-point system for each splice found during fabric inspection.

Causes and prevention of splicing

The position of the splice in a roll of fabric often depends on the overall fabric quality. Splicing is often used to compensate for other fabric defects, like stains or holes, by removing these from the final roll.

So improving overall fabric quality and preventing other fabric defects can often help to minimize splicing losses.

Setting a maximum length tolerance for splicing in each roll of fabric with your supplier can help to clarify your expectations (e.g. no more than one splice every 30 meters). Be sure to consult your supplier on this tolerance before production to ensure it is achievable.

12. Holes

A hole is an imperfection where one or more yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an opening in the fabric.

Holes are typically treated as a major defect in the fabric and are assigned either two or four penalty points during fabric inspection, depending on their size.

Causes and prevention of hole

Holes are usually caused by an accidental cut or tear to the fabric. Broken needles or rough mechanical parts are common culprits for fabric tearing during manufacturing.

Prevent future holes by ensuring your supplier has procedures in place to regularly check needles and machinery prior to production.

13. Defective selvage (cut, waved or creased)

Selvage is the densely woven edge of a piece of fabric. Most often used in reference to woven fabrics, the selvage is supposed to keep the fabric from unraveling or fraying.

Selvage can be defective in a number of ways, including cut, waved or creased. Cut selvage might also be referred to as broken selvage or ripped selvage.

Causes and prevention of defective selvage

There are two main culprits for defective selvage:

An incorrect loom adjustment during weaving

Improper edge construction

Correctly adjusting the loom and properly constructing the edges of the fabric should prevent this defect.

14. Snags

A snag is a part of the yarn that is accidentally pulled or plucked from the surface. Usually it appears as a large loop of yarn above the surface of the fabric.

In warp knits, the snag occurs in the wale direction. In weft knits, the snag occurs in the course direction.

Causes and prevention of snag

In the case of continuous filament yarns, snagging is typically caused by mechanical strain during knitting. Sharp points and objects can cause the fabric snag at any time. Inspect the fabric contact points on all the processing machines to identify and fix any sharp points.

Some fabrics are more prone to snagging than others due to their composition. You can conduct a mace snag test to determine a fabric's resistance to snagging. During this test, a miniature mace (a spiked ball) will track randomly across a fabric sample to predict actual wear and snagging.

15. Thick place/thin place

These are unintentional changes in fabric appearance as compared to adjacent construction. If the thick or thin place is more than one inch wide, it is typically classified as a major defect in fabric inspection.

A thick place will appear as a small area of more closely spaced yarns or by a congregation of thick yarns. A thin place is the opposite, as the fabric will appear to have loosely spaced yarns or a congregation of thin yarns.

Causes and prevention of thick place/thin place

Main causes of thick and thin places include:

Irregular let-off

Incorrect setting of holding and releasing pawls on the ratchet wheel of take-up motion

Gears of take-up motion not meshing properly

Gear wheel teeth worn out or broken

Ensuring proper training of factory personnel to set the let-off and/or take-up motion properly can help prevent this fabric defect.

16. Bowing and skewing

Bowing is a condition in woven textiles where filling yarns are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvages and lie in an arc across the width of the fabric. Bowing appears as rows of courses or yarn-dyed stripes forming a bow shaped curvature along the fabric width.

Skewing is a similar condition in which filling yarns are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric.

Bowing and skewing affects striped or patterned fabric quality more than for solid color fabrics, as the greater contrast in patterns makes the distortion more prominent.

Causes and prevention of bowing and skewing

Bowing and skewing can be caused by an uneven distribution of tension across the fabric width during dyeing or finishing processes. Improper stretching during scouring, dyeing or finishing might also cause bowing or skewing.

Correcting the tension settings on processing machines should rectify these defects. You can also ask your supplier to fix bowing and skewing found during fabric inspection by reprocessing the fabric through a compactor or straightening machine.

17. Needle lines

Needle lines appear in weft knit fabrics, and appear as prominent vertical streaks or lines in the fabric.

Causes and prevention of needle lines

Defective needles are a direct cause for needle lines. Needle latches, hooks or stems might be:

Mixed

New

Dirty or contaminated with lint

Bent

Worn

If needle lines occur individually, you'll likely only need to trace the needle line to the associated defective needle and replace it to prevent further needle lines. If needle lines appear in a band, you'll likely need to replace multiple defective needles.

An improper dial or cylinder condition with the machine might also cause needle lines. Verify that your supplier has established and maintained proper maintenance and cleaning policies to prevent future issues with needles and equipment.

18. Coarse pick

A coarse pick is where the filling yarn used in the fabric is unusually large in diameter. This defect is also known as coarse filling or thick filling.

Coarse pick is usually classified as a major defect during fabric inspection.

Causes and prevention of coarse pick

Probable causes for coarse pick include:

Lashing of broken end with adjoining end at roving frame

Disturbed weight of back-top rollers at roving frame and ring frame cause the material to slip under the back-top roller and crease a coarse yarn

19. Coarse end

Coarse end appears in fabric with warp yarn.

Also known as heavy end, this is when the warp end is larger than normal in diameter, even sometimes double in size. The opposite is a fine end, when the warp end is smaller in diameter than normal.

The diameter of the yarn is too large, irregular or contains foreign material, which inhibits a smooth, even fabric.

Causes and prevention of coarse end

Coarse end is caused when two bobbins of roving (wool that has been run through a mill on a carding machine) are running together during spinning. The process of running two bobbins together during spinning is commonly referred to as doubling and is used to remove variations in thickness.

To prevent coarse ends, ensure there are no knots, irregularities or foreign materials in the roving prior to doubling.

20. Broken pick

This defect appears as a broken filling yarn in the fabric weaving. It appears as a sharp discontinuity in the weave pattern over the pick length.

Causes and prevention of broken pick

A broken pick is the result of a break or cut in filling yarn, which results in the insertion of a partial pick in the fabric. This can happen after weft break, weft exhaustion or a faulty weft fork mechanism. Correcting weft stop motion will ensure broken picks are detected before they're inserted into the fabric.

Ensuring weaving personnel are trained to identify and replace a broken pick during production can also help prevent the appearance of this defect in the finished goods.

21. Broken end

A broken end appears as a broken, untied warp end of a fabric. The yarn is usually broken during weaving or finishing. Broken ends appear as equidistant horizontal lines along the fabric width.

Causes and prevention of broken end

This defect is caused by yarn breakage. When the yarn breaks during weaving or finishing and is then woven into fabric the result is a broken end.

Some possible causes for broken ends include:

Poor preparation

Weak or irregular yarn

Excessive warp tension

22. Missing end/end out

This defect will appear in fabric as a fine warp-way crack until the weaver rectifies it.

A missing end typically appears at the selvage of the fabric. Missing end is also known as "end out" and is typically classified as a major defect during fabric inspection.

Causes and prevention of missing end

A missing end occurs when an extra piece of filling yarn is jerked into the fabric by the shuttle. This happens when a warp yarn is broken or missing during weaving.

Your fabric may end up with missing ends if a weaver improperly draws broken ends in place or the warp stop motion isn't properly functioning. Weaving should stop immediately when a yarn breaks to prevent introducing missing ends into the fabric.

23. Filling bar

A filling bar, also known as a weft bar, is a visual band or bar across the full width of fabric. The area will contain less than the normal number of picks, appearing different from the rest of the fabric.

Causes and prevention of filling bar

There are three main causes of a filling bar:

Defective spinning processes that lead to a variation in the count of weft yarn

Mixing of different counts or different twist yarns

Faulty take up motion on the looms

Ensure your supplier has proper controls and organizational processes to eliminate mix-ups and segregate yarn to prevent this fabric defect. In addition, ensure proper operation of spinning and loom machinery to eliminate mechanical causes.

Conclusion

Whether you're using fabric to produce inexpensive, promotional t-shirts or high-end furniture upholstery, a clear understanding of the various types of fabric defects will help you prevent them. Learning how to identify various fabric defects and their causes can help you ensure fabric quality meets your standards.

Prior to production, consider setting a defect tolerance for fabric quality issues in a QC checklist. Establishing a mutually agreed upon system for identifying and classifying fabric defects can limit potential disputes with your supplier down the line.

If you're tired of dealing with quality complaints and product returns, consider relying on a third-party inspection company for fabric inspection. Investing the time and effort to rectify issues and prevent future fabric defects will ensure your product meets company and customer standards.
Editor's note: This post was originally published in April 2016 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness. Learn how third-party inspection helped one fabric importer reduce quality defects and improve fabric quality in our case study below!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
23 Fabric Defects to Look Out for During Fabric Inspection

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Where do fabric defects come from and how can you prevent them from negatively impacting fabric quality? This 4-point system is the industry standard.

# data[].attributes.body
Good On You has rated the sustainability level as a Not good enough for Ralph Lauren due to their lack of evidence in any change and also no engaging in better animal welfare or ethical issues of treatment of staff.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Ralph Lauren is owned by Ralph Lauren Corporation.

Our "Planet" rating evaluates brands based on the environmental policies in their supply chains, from carbon emissions and wastewater to business models and product circularity. Here we rate Ralph Lauren "It's a Start". These are a few factors influencing its score:

It uses few lower-impact materials.

It's set a science based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions in both its direct operations and supply chain, and it claims it's on track.

While it offers clothing recycling to consumers, it doesn't report on its results.

It's set a target to eliminate hazardous chemicals by 2025 but there's no evidence it is on track.

Workers' rights are central to our "People" rating, which assess brands' policies and practices on everything from child labour to living wages and gender equality. Here we rate Ralph Lauren "Not Good Enough". These are a few factors influencing its score:

None of its supply chain is certified by crucial labour standards that help ensure worker health and safety, living wages, and other rights.

It received a score of 41-50% in the 2022 Fashion Transparency Index.

It has a basic policy to support diversity and inclusion in its direct operations and supply chain.

It claims to have a program to improve wages but there's no evidence it ensures its workers are paid living wages in most of its supply chain.

During the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, it disclosed some policies to protect workers in its supply chain from the virus.

Brands' animal welfare policies and, where applicable, how well they trace their animal-derived products are the focus of our "Animals" rating. Here we rate Ralph Lauren "Not Good Enough". These are a few factors influencing its score:

It has a formal policy aligned with the Five Domains of animal welfare.

It appears to use leather, exotic animal skin, shearling, exotic animal hair, decorative feathers, and silk.

Responsible Wool Standard certifies some of the wool it sources.

Responsible Down Standard certifies the down it uses.

It doesn't appear to use fur or angora.

It traces some animal-derived materials to the first production stage.

Based on all publicly available information we've reviewed, we rate Ralph Lauren "Not Good Enough" overall.

Last updated July 2023

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Ralph Lauren is owned by Ralph Lauren Corporation.Our "Planet" rating evaluates brands based on the environmental policies in their supply chains, from carbon emissions and wastewater to business models and product circularity. Here we rate Ralph Lauren "It's a Start".

# data[].attributes.body
Two risk assessments must be done a process assessment and a product assessment.

1. "What can go wrong?

2. How is it going to affect your business?

3. What should you do?

4. Should something happen how is it going to be paid for?"

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Though risk is synonymous with Safety, hazardous process and various business angles, I would like to talk about Product Risk Assessment.

Risk assessment is a term used to describe the overall process or method where you: Identify hazards and risk factors that have the potential to cause harm (hazard identification).

Risk assessment is a thorough look at your workplace to identify those things, situations, processes, etc. that may cause harm, particularly to people. After identification, you analyze and evaluate how likely and severe the risk is. When this determination is made, you can next, decide what measures should be in place to effectively eliminate or control the harm from happening.

When should a risk assessment be done?

Risk assessment is needed;

Before new processes or activities are introduced.

Before changes are introduced to existing processes or activities, including when products, machinery, tools, equipment change or new information concerning harm becomes available.

When hazards are identified.

I categorise Risk assessment into two buckets, considering the journey from Product Design,development,procurement and manufacturing.

Product risk assessment

is a critical activity, a lack of which may lead to the product may failing in testing. I call this as Critical to Quality (CTQ).

What are the vital few elements that affect the quality or brand image?

1. Embellishment -Placements

2. Workmanship

3. Finishes

4. Measurement

Process Risk Assessment

Process risk majorly consists of safety and I primarily talk about the contingency plan.

Its very important that all risks must be identified during the product development stage itself. This needs all stake holders from designer, Development Merchant, Sourcing to Quality to participate.

How this Impacts Production?

Decisions on quality issues are rarely black or white, especially when they involve different materials.

First, we work with materials that are often not stable and will stretch, shrink, or distort during cutting, sewing, or pressing; however, carefully, we try to prevent this from happening.

Second, no two machinists sew in exactly the same way, and sometimes, a faulty batch can be traced back to one machinist.

Making decisions on the acceptability of samples or production is often difficult, and "commercial decisions" have to be made, which must always be in the best interest of the business.

The Idea of commercial decision is great. But the cause and effect analysis done against that will actually reveal the most occurring problem. Are we addressing them for permanent solution?

Product quality can be assessed when we actually do a Due diligence test.

In the pursuit of thorough testing regime, many brands and retailers acknowledge the need for the implementation of a due diligence programme to strengthen current testing procedures and further enhance confidence in compliance policy. Most significantly, it will minimize the risk of restricted chemicals within finished consumer products brands can line up with industry best practices.

What Does a Risk Management Plan Entail?

Brands during product development certainly can raise questions pertaining to the product or process and look for answers from cross functional teams as part of the risk management process. For example:

1. What can go wrong?

2. How is it going to affect your business?

3. What should you do?

4. Should something happen how is it going to be paid for?

For a risk management plan to be effective, it has to have the backing of everyone in your organization, with staff knowing what their roles and responsibilities are, who are accountable etc. It requires the establishment of policies and procedures with resources and tools made available for the plan. Training, testing, and monitoring of the plan is also essential.

Conclusion :
We as management need to forecast risk that actually improves the product and process much ahead, predicting the risk and taking actions. Therefore, Management can select and apply several techniques. Selecting and controlling techniques will depend on many factors and score of the risk. Ability to actually predict and taking control of action both in product and process actually defines our status as World class Manufacturing.

RELATED TOPICS:#Apparel,RiskAssessmentStrategy,Ajay Ravuri

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
In this article, I would like to emphasize on risk assessment ...

# data[].attributes.body
Overall it wasnt a bad swot analysis. They are a high earning popular company, however they do have areas to improve on such as quality and sustainability.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
In this article, we'll walk you through a SWOT analysis for Zara. Inditex, the world's biggest fashion retailer owns the brand Zara. In 1975, Amancio Ortega, Inditex's founder, opened the first Zara store in Spain. Since 1975, Zara has grown to be a dominant presence in the fashion industry.

Today, with 2,240 stores across 96 countries, Zara brought home €19.5 billion in 2019. Contributing 70% of Inditex's revenue in 2019, Zara is Inditex's crown jewel.

What makes Zara such a popular brand? Well, our SWOT analysis for Zara helps you learn why. Here's what the SWOT analysis covers:

Strength: Internal factors enabling Zara's growth.

Weakness: Internal factors hindering Zara's progress.

Opportunity: External factors aiding Zara's rise.

Threat: External factors pulling Zara down.

Reading this SWOT analysis helps you upgrade your business IQ and develop your problem-solving skills. Interested in getting smarter? Just five minutes will do it. Shall we start?

What are Zara's major strengths?

Pioneer Advantage: Fast-fashion focuses on designing, producing, and selling clothes as soon as they identify a trend. In traditional fashion, the process takes months; Zara does this in 3 weeks. As pioneers, Zara has the most evolved strategy and management practices in running the supply chain.

Stores: Zara is selling in 202 markets and has stores in 96 of them. Totaling 2249 stores, Zara has the most number of fashion retail stores in the world. The number is almost twice the number of retail stores than Nike has, which has the second-highest number of retail stores.

Supply Chain: Zara refreshes its online and retail collection two times a week. Zara's 10 logistic centers deliver to any location in the world within 48 hours. Inditex also has an in-house team who design software to double the speed at which the company dispatches orders.

Design Team: Inditex has a team of 700 trained designers who transform the customer's desires to designs. The team of designers outputs 50,000 creatives a year. And, it takes them just 3 weeks to get the designs from the drawing board to the stores.

Switch to Online: Inditex is investing $3 billion in bolstering its online sales. The investment focuses on developing an engaging online buying experience and integrating existing physical infrastructure. The company aims to generate a quarter of its revenue through online sales by 2022.

The reason Zara is so successful is that Zara has mastered the game of fast-fashion. But due to growing concerns about the environment and ethics, fast-fashion turns out to be a double-edged sword. We'll cover this and more in our next section on Zara's weaknesses.

What are some of Zara's weaknesses?

What makes Zara unique in the world of fashion is its commitment to revise its collection every two weeks. This commitment gives Zara a place at the top of the industry. But the edge comes at a price. Here's more:

Fast-Fashion: Interestingly, the trend that helped propel Zara to the top is the cause of its most pressing weakness. With the focus on sustainability increasing among customers and policymakers Zara's weakness is balancing sustainability with fast-fashion.

Reliance on Physical Stores: The pandemic accelerated Zara's plans to limit the number of physical stores. Online sales helped Zara climb out of a massive drop in sales because of COVID-19-related causes. However, even with online sales picking up, the sales are only at 89% of what it was in 2019.

Expansion to US and Asia-Pacific: Zara has 99 stores in the US. This accounts for only 4.4% of Zara's 2249 stores. However, the US is the biggest apparel market in the world. And the Asia-Pacific accounts for 38% of the apparel market share. Zara's presence in both geographies is weak.

Ethical Work Practices: Inditex works with 1520 suppliers across 7108 factories. Although Inditex deserves credit for creating a rigorous code of conduct, a large gap exists in enforcing the code. An issue, as reported by Buzzfeed, regarding the treatment of workers in Myanmar points to this gap.

AI-Enabled Prediction: Currently, Inditex is working with AI and Big Data companies to create an AI-enabled system that predicts consumer behavior. However, the current system is still in its testing stage. When such a system goes online, Zara will have the unrivaled capability in predicting and fulfilling customer's needs.

What are some opportunities for Zara?

One of the biggest advantages Zara has is its experience in capitalizing on fashion trends quickly. This advantage puts Zara in the right place to leverage opportunities on the horizon. Some of these opportunities are:

Rapid Delivery Cycle: Customers visit Zara's shops on an average of 17 times a year. This is because Zara responds to trends as soon as they emerge. Right now, Zara delivers a trend from start to finish in just 2 to 3 weeks. However, in the future, Zara could shorten the cycles even more.

Personalization: Collecting data and segmenting the customer base after analyzing the data is becoming easier than ever before thanks to AI. This allows for providing personalized suggestions to customers. Zara should capitalize on this technology.

Eco-Friendliness: According to the Sourcing General, more than 1/3rd of Millennials and Gen Z look for "sustainable" and "environment friendly" labels on clothes. Together, the two groups account for 50% of the population. So, Zara must listen and respond to this growing need.

Resale: The re-sale market, currently valued at $28 billion today, is predicted to grow to $64 billion in 5 years. Integrating a re-sale strategy to their current platform would allow customers to purchase more with less wastage. This encourages consumerism while supporting sustainability.

Influencer Marketing: Unbox Social says influencer marketing is the most effective strategy for promoting lifestyle brands. Zara's success with the #DearSouthAfrica campaign involving 60 micro-influencers engaged 8 million people. This should be a model for the future.

What is the biggest threat to Zara?

Zara's biggest competition in the traditional sense would be H&M. However, in the online space, Zara faces competition from multiple businesses. But competition is just one of the threats to Zara.

Competition: China's fast-fashion giant, Shein, is the world's biggest fashion retailer with a purely online presence. During September, the Shein app saw 10.3 million downloads. Zara, with only 2 million downloads in the same period, must watch out for its rivals in the digital arena.

Price War: Fast-fashion, Zara's primary niche, brings the latest trends from the ramp to the customers quickly and at low costs. However, the industry is vulnerable to imitators waging price wars to leech off from Zara's line.

COVID-19: In the first quarter of 2020, Inditex reported a 44% drop in sales. Inditex's report states the closure of 88% of its stores because of the Coronavirus lead as the central reason for the drop in sales.

Government Regulations: Inditex has 13 factories in Spain. Due to the Spanish government's lockdown measures, only 3 of the 13 factories operated in the early months of the pandemic. With Europe heading towards a second wave, the company can expect similar measures.

Sustainability: The use-and-throw attitude people had towards fashion is changing. People are conscious of the impact of fashion on the environment and people. Thus, Zara would have to push towards making fast-fashion a sustainable business - economically and ecologically.

Zara SWOT Analysis: Conclusion

Recovering from the COVID-19 crisis and strengthening online presence is Zara's current priority. Inditex's financials show signs of recovery and the management is optimistic about boosting online sales. So, we could say Zara has things under control for now. But what about external factors?

Well, the pandemic has accelerated the growth of online shopping. In the immediate future, Zara must consolidate its footing in the digital and physical space. Zara has got many things right in its rise to the top of fashion retail. The question is - can Zara do the same online?

From this SWOT analysis for Zara, we hope you have seen how creativity and commitment to customers strengthen a brand in adversities. Here's the takeaway - get in touch with your audience, build a strong relationship with them, and give them what they want.

SWOT analysis is the best way to learn from the successes of the business world. We've put together many of them. Look at our SWOT analysis library for more. In case you would like to learn what is a SWOT analysis, read our guide on how to do a SWOT analysis. You can also use SWOT analysis examples and our SWOT analysis template to get the hang of it.
Images via DepositPhotos

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
What makes Zara such a popular brand? Οur Zara SWOT analysis helps you learn why by taking a look at Zara's major strengths, weaknesses and threats.

# data[].attributes.body
A pattern that must contain the appropriate information for production.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use.

# data[].attributes.body
V&A DIVA exhibition

# data[].attributes.body
V&A

# data[].attributes.body
V&A