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lay-plan:

lay your pattern out and place it on the correct side of the fabric, as well as making sure it is along the grain line.

Chalk out pattern (on the right side) on the cloth along with any notches and marks which are on the pattern block.

Cut out pattern from fabric.

Mark stitching:

Mark stitch all relevant markings and information on the fabric.

The waistcoat dart:

before sewing your dart:

secure it using a general basting stitch.

Cut a strip of Silesia and pin it on to the top half of the dart.

Use sewing machine to secure the dart as this will prevent you any stretching or warping when tugging on the bottom hem in the later stages of the waistcoat making process

once the dart has been sewn, cut a slit in the middle of the dart excess where the Silesia starts.

Press the new seam open so that it lays flat.

canvas:

place both waistcoat fronts on a length of waistcoat canvas and cut round the shape of the waistcoat.

closing and securing the dart on your canvas:

mark the dart notches on your canvas cut out the dart. cut a strip of linen 2cm longer than the length of your dart and secure to each side of the cut out dart ensuring that each edge of dart is flush. Secure the linen with a zigzag stitch two rows of stitching on either side of the strip of linen.

Attaching the canvas and waistcoat:

attach the canvas to the waistcoat by basting them together.

When securing the two layers together, always flatten and smooth the cloth before each stitch to remove gathering and warps from the fabric.

Cut the rough edges of canvas so they are flush with the edges of the waistcoat.

Trimmings:

Place linen strip along the waistcoat facings edge, roll line,  armhole and hem

Make sure to stitch some gather into the middle of the lapel area (roll line) whilst attaching the linen strips.

baste them on and gather fabric to give the waistcoat more shape and then permanently secure the trimmings with a single line of pad-stitching.

Make sure that the stitching does NOT show on the right side of the fabric.

The Welt Pockets:

measure the length of the pocket line on each waistcoat.

follow the pattern block you have previously drafted out and translate the dimensions needed onto the cloth you cut.

proceed to make and attach the welts on either side of your waistcoat.

Attaching the facing:

match each end of the facing, right sides touching.

Baste and sew from each point a foot-space away from the edge.

Once it is attached press and shape the seam using a point presser to give it a curved shape.

press the facing so that it lays naturally in place on the inside of the waistcoat.

Place the facing and waistcoat front together (right sides touching)

Machine stitch (foot space width)

Now the facing and facing seam are now brought to the wrong side of the vestRoll facing over and press.

Baste  in place along the front edge.

Cross Stitch the inner edge of the facing to the canvas using silk thread. (stitches should NOT show through on the right side).

Press facing from the wrong side

secure this folded edge with a basted pad-stitch and proceed to secure it to the canvas with a raw edge felling stitch.

secure the canvas to the bottom hem before folding and securing the hem itself.

securing hems:

before securing each hem:

stretch the shape of the bottom of the waistcoat using the vacuum and steam setting, whilst pull the cloth. (this will help it lay flat when it is folded and secured).

Secure each hem by folding along the mark stitches, then baste.

once each hem is secured, hand-stitch each edge with a cross-stitch fastening each hem to the waistcoat canvas. Make sure that no stitches come through or show or the ride side of the fabric.

baste and secure each hem in this order:

1. bottom hem

2. chest roll line

3. armhole

4. facing (Roll the facing before basting and securing so that 1-2mm of the right-side is showing on the inside of the waistcoat.

front lining:

mark the wrong side of your chosen lining. place a length of lining on top of the waistcoat front, with the wrong side of the lining facing up. find the midpoint of the shoulder and follow the natural contour of the central line through the waistcoat front, translate this one to your length of lining. create a pleat following this contour on your lining. the pleat must be 1cm deep. create this pleat using the vacuum of the iron whilst pinch and pressing a fold following the central line. do not use steam on lining as it damages the cloth. baste on top of the pleat to secure it and then proceed to secure the lining to the waistcoat by basting it, whilst creating gathers in the middle of the lining. trim the excess lining around the edges, leaving an inlay of around 2cm on the chest and stomach edge. leave 1cm on the armhole and another 2cm along the bottom hem. fold the raw edge of the lining so they are hidden and secure them with a basting stitch. fell the folded edges of the lining with polyester thread. do no fold the lining along the side of the waistcoat and just trim it so it is flush with the waistcoat front

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waistcoat pt2

lining

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1416tc0dGsCakxbZOXs6XjpKb9ELjlyEBDt7VXP4Rnls/edit?usp=sharing

Baste down pleat (only basting through the lining).

Then lay the lining over the wrong side of the waistcoat front (making sure that you have matched the correct piece of lining to it’s corresponding waistcoat front panel.

Apply another line of basting over the pleat, but this time going through all layers of fabric (waistcoat & lining), securing all parts together.

Make sure to “baste in” the “ease” to the pleated lining.

Cross Stitch the fabric edges to the to the waistcoat canvas (all raw edges except waistcoat CB).

Fold lining over to desired distance from the lapels edge (2cm) and pin for basting, and then “felling” the lining to the wrong side of the waistcoat

Arm holes need to crossed stitched to the waistcoat canvas, but due to the concave curve of the armhole, use as little seam allowance as possible (just enough to cross stitch down the raw edge, as well as attaching the waistcoat lining too).

Make sure to keep the “ease” & “gather” in the waistcoat lining whilst basting and felling the lining to the waistcoat

Trim lining down to a mininum so that it can be attached and lay flat when felling the lining to the concaved curve of the armhole.

Stitch the 4 panels of the lining back together

then machine stitch two of the strap panels together and then turn inside out (repeat so you now have two straps)

Measure and pin out the straps to the back of the lining. Make sure to attach the straps to the right side and the right panels of the lining.

Prick stitch the straps in position and to anchor them to the lining.

Check waistcoat front matches up with lining and all relevant notches.

Fold (along the waistline) the 4 panel lining and make sure the tops of the shoulders are touching and aligned with each other. Then pin, and Baste around the edge of waistcoat as is shown below

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There are three stages of baste fitting during the bespoke tailoring process:

1. The "Skeleton" Baste

2. The "Forward" Baste

3. The "Finish Bar Finish" Baste

1. The BASTE fitting

literally the cloth basted together using white basting cotton. This fitting is important for two reasons:

This will enable the cutter to check his patterns when fitted on you

judge how the drape and "fit" is on your body.

At this stage, the fitting is less for the client and more for the cutter. The Cutter at this point, will either make some corrections, or give the tailors the go ahead to finish the job and plan a second fitting.

You should normally expect this first fitting within a month of receiving the order and clients measurements

2. The FORWARD BASTE fittingThe second fitting (the forward baste fitting) is for the client, so they can judge the result, and for the cutter to note any final changes/alterations that are required.

At this stage, if all parties are happy, the garment will then go to finishing stage. if not, then one or more further fittings will be planned.

After 8 to 10 weeks from the choice of cloth and garment.

3. FIN bar FIN fitting

The fin-bar-fin, or the ‘nearly there‘, fitting. At this stage, the suit will be completely finished apart from buttonholes and hand felling(sewing) etc.

at this point, the client and cutter should be completely satisfied with the fit and details of the garments.

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3. Fabric & trimmings used to perform the Baste fit.

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3. Fabric & trimmings used to perform the Baste fit.

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Suiting Fabric (100% Wool)

Waistcoat Canvas

Basting Thread

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2. What is the process after striking and cutting a waistcoat for a customer?

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2. What is the process after striking and cutting a waistcoat for a customer?

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Basting for fitting

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Besides correctly taking and recording the client's actual body measurements, the two most important factors to take into consideration are:

the clients desired "fit".

the client's posture.