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-Importance of oral based knowledge sharing, conversation around/about food, transfering this knowledge to younger generations
-Going to markets, meeting suppliers, asking for cooking advice (similar to farmer's markets here in a way)
-More than a meal - preparation planning
-Very structured, Escoffier
-Wine
-Food is history, worry that the tradition will be lost, therefore get it registered with UNESCO

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More than a meal
a celebration of life and humanity
relatively regimented rules around the event
minimum of 4 courses
A bringing together of family and friends
Food is the vessel that carries tradition and friendship

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- an evolving heritage eg. inclusion of ingredients from other places
- the importance of togetherness and enjoying in the food and wine as a whole group
- set structure to the meal
- ritual that is passed on through generations
- at the market have a conversation with the shopkeepers and learn the best cooking technique for a certain product
- different wine for each course to enhance the harmony of dishes

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Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity

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UNESCO: Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity - 2010 URL: http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/RL/00437 Description: The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions.

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The French gastronomic meal celebrates special events by bringing people together for the pleasure of taste.

It is intangible cultural event that adheres to a strict rule of what to be served in strict order.

It is a ritual that brings family and friends together in order to strengthen social ties.

While bringing people together to share a special a gastronomic meal is a worthwhile cultural bonding excercise, it can also create tension and pressure if things are not going well according to the rules.

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"La repas gastronomique" = gastronomic meal
special meal to celebrate special events in life, "essential part of heritage and identity" ritual
Not just the meal, but the process of planning, preparing together, sharing, shopping
advice, knowledge and cooking techniques shared orally while shopping
often includes new ingredients and cultural dishes, or regional dishes --> unifying.
Family cooking together, again oral exchange
communal, familial, inter-generational, educational
not only about eating, full experience - setting table (how to arrange cutlery, napkins etc.), food is a topic of conversation as they eat
structured meal - certain courses, certain conventions for each course (at least 4 courses)
different wine with each dish, aperitif to start, digestiv to finish
"art of living, of wellbeing"

inscribed by UNESCO for heritage designation "representative list of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity" (2010)

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The social capacity of food

It can make or break social ties

The aspect of conversation when shopping at a market: asking the specialist about the preparation of an ingredient

Rigidity of the structure of the French gastronome

Echoes Escoffier (modern day meal structure)

Connection between food and the family, and home

Identity

Preservation of the gastronomic meal in the face of evolution

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1. Food consumption patterns represent the actual history of a place

2. Culinary technique and foodscapes create a language of their own, influencing notions of exclusivity, and xenophobia

3. Catalan food as a consequence of the geographical location, climate, historical trade routes

4. Modern Catalan cuisine as a nostalgic experience (founded within domesticity)

5. Appellations: the notion of terroir (attribution of products to aspects such as climate, soil, earth, region, etc) as Catalan not a solid country, and has tainted associations with Spain. Product associated, but not to the construction of Catalonia (e.g. cava)

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·         Catalonian cuisine strong source of national pride

·         No fear of being overrun by foreign foods. Unique, generally not liked by foreigners

·         ‘Nostalgic enactment’ which is a nation having its own distinct dishes that are generally unappealing to outsiders only eaten by community members. There is a powerful statement of identity and difference made in eating a certain food

·         Idea that sense of national identity comes from the land you live on which provides the food for consumption which create the national cuisine.

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What's cooking in Catalonia?

After Franco, there was a re-emergence/ re-discovery of Catalan cuisine that was suppressed/ reduced down to only 2-3 dishes under commissioned cookbooks of United Spain.

Catalan cuisine just like its language is historically influenced by French
and Italian cuisines.

Catalan cooking is extensive, varied, rural, peasant, half lard and half olive-oil based.

Barcelona is a mixture of French, Mediterranean and central Spain cooking.

Catalonia acted as a bridge between the
food products that came from the New World (America) and the rest of Europe.

Today Catalan food is threatened most by 2 main factors:- 1. tourism and 2. the increasing need/move towards fast foods/cooking.

The success of Catalan celebrity chefs in the last few decades has also created some negative attitude towards culinary stars. There has been a move to promote home/family cooking.

Threat of globalisation?

,

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Relationship between food consumption and identity

'like a language, food articulates notions of inclusion and exclusion, of national pride and xenophobia' (230)

Diversity of Catalan cuisine as a result of geographical position (234)

Adopted other cuisines and makes them its own, e.g. pizza (235)

Anderson's 'imagined community' concept

'Cookery books, alimentary guides and specialised magazines abound, and in all cases the remit is similar: they promote local produce, stimulate the local economy and provide enjoyable outings.' (240)

Idealistic, nationalistic scene

Ironically, Catalonia appears to promote Franco's autarky, albeit in a more regionalistic sense

Terroir: Catalonia not a recognised country, so cuisine attributed more so to aspects such as climate, soil, earth, etc, and what these produce and create (appellations)

Does modern, gastronomic Catalan cuisine disrupt identity, rather than solidify it?

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-Food, discourse, and nation are near impossible to disentangle
-dietary history = history

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– Consider food consumption as 'differentiating & cohesive' within communities and the complex relationship between what we eat and what we 'are'.
–cooking as culinary, expressive 'language'; therefore is influenced/influences notions of xenophobia/inclusivism/exclusivity
–Barthes: Each nation has a few choice 'totem' food/drinks which it attributes to its national identity. i.e: France has cheese and wine (p.230)
–also, could be classified as 'nostalgic enactment' (Raspa p.231) where foods may be chosen for their unappealing nature to 'outsiders'.
–Catalan cuisine subsumed by the collective during the Francoist dictatorship
–After this period, Catalan cuisine was empowered and embraced its regional diversity; " a recipe from every landscape".
–Renaixença: known as the cultural 'rebirth', and the beginning of collective Catalan consciousness, thus contemporary Catalan gastronomy.
–Catalan now prides itself as a country where cooking knowledge is shared and celebrated so that the majority know how to prepare food and eat well.
–The fierce pride in its traditional and classic recipes is also a product of fear towards the industrialisation of cuisine; a similar dynamic could also be argued for in France & Italian Slow Food Movement.
–This has resulted in tensions towards celebrity chef personalities/taste-makers'.
–Contradicted by the rising popularity of cooking shows featuring Catalan produce being used and transformed into new and exotic dishes.

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(The Ingredients of a National Cuisine)

·         Much like in Spain, India’s cuisine is very diverse region to region which make sit somewhat difficult to create a cookbook of the nation’s cuisine in the modern context

·         Few strategies that can be used to do so

§  One is a nominal strategy, where the recipes used are more combinations of different regions made to seem like a representation of the nation as a whole, selling it as an important cuisine with historical value

§  The other is a more inductive strategy where the author will compile a bunch of recipes from varying regions and try to find a common theme among them

§  Usually this common theme lies in the spices, however even the combination of spices used are different for each region which overtakes the idea of finding a national cuisine

§  Some authors use the process of cooking such as roasting, frying or basting to try and bring together each regions cuisine

§  Others use a more encyclopedic approach with reference to ingredients and implements used similar to the model of a French cookbook

§  Another strategy is focusing on certain foods and taking recipes from all regions and putting them together

·         Despite all flawed attempts at forming a national cuisine, more ambiguity arises with invoking of the menu idea

·         Unlike a French course which has more separate meals, an Indian meal is largely a single dish with all the elements (rice as a base, breads, lentils, vegetables, pickles and chutneys, beverages) served as one.

·         However the menu concept has evolved from grouping dishes by base ingredient, preparation method, the mode they are consumed or even when (time of day or year)

·         It has evolved to allow the inclusion and (re)combination of regional dishes in suggested menus, like The Working Woman’s Cookbook

·         This organisation of cuisines is accompanied by an ideology that is quite nationalist and integrationist, that is to say that, variety is a good thing and very difficult to avoid

·         It is suggested that perhaps, the people of India, themselves, are unaware of the variety within their own nation hence when compiling a national cuisine, it is inevitable

·         Furthermore, modern cookbooks are modifying recipes to be portrayed from the perspective of the nutritionist, the food technologist and caterer

·         Several Indian cookbooks, involve recipes from other countries which have all been categorised as curry, implying a kind of gastronomic imperialism under the colonial trope of curry

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Culinary Texts and Standards in Indian History

While food has always been a central point in classical and contemporary Hindu thought, food contextualisation was notable absent from Indian literature until post industrialism and post colonialism.

Food in India is closely tied to the moral and social status of individuals and groups. Food taboos divide  men from women, gods from humans, upper classes from lower classes, one sect from another.

Food is the link between humans and Gods, as well as between men themselves.

There was a lot of literature about eating and feeding but very little in cooking. The highest and most literate Indian caste of Brahmans were not interested in the culinary and the gastronomic sides of food. They were not interested in food codification like the French.To the Hindus, food is more about managing human interactions with Gods. Prescriptive foods are offered to Gods who in turn bless humans with grace and protection.

To me, the prescriptive nature of food and the associated taboos are indeed the Indian way of food codification and perhaps is more relevant to the HIndu way of living.

" food prescriptions and food taboos are two sides of the same coin"

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-to be
representations not only of structures of production and distribution and of
social and cosmological schemes, but of class and hierarchy

Language and literacy, cities and
ethnicity, women and domesticity, all are examples of issues that lie behind
these cookbooks

cooking in India is deeply embedded in
moral and medical beliefs and prescription

food may finally be said to
be emerging as a partly autonomous enterprise, freed of its moral and medical
constraints

why Indian history has not, until recently, witnessed the same
degree of textualization of the culinary realm

the question of the historical forces that until this
century have militated against the formation of a civilizational culinary standard
in India

Food taboos and prescriptions divide men from women,
gods from humans, upper from lower castes, one sect from another

an immense amount written about eating and about feeding, precious little is
said about cooking in Hindu

Hindu thought that local variation in custom must be
respected by those in power.
bear in mind that the producers, of the
major textual traditions, the Brahmans, did not particularly care about the culinary or gastronomic side of food

arrival of the Mughals in India in the first half of the sixteenth
century, the textualization of culinary practice took a significant step forward

In the first half of this century,
magazines and newspapers began to address the urban housewife by carrying
recipe columns

the colonial version of Indian cuisine is the most significant precursor
of the emergent national cuisine of the last two decades

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A main point (evident in both introduction and conclusion): regardless of whether or not aspects of the national cuisine end up being immortalised in written text, it is impossible for these cuisines to ever fully stagnate. They will always be changing and evolving with time, as power relations grow and change, with weather, etc,

'They reflect shifts in the boundaries of edibility' (3)
'we need to view cookbooks in the contemporary world as revealing artifacts of culture in the making.'  (22)

Food culture is always transient
Can we find a root for this demand for Indian cookbooks in colonialism and post-colonialism?

Proliferation of Genres and the Culinary Other

The distinction between premodern and modern Indian cuisine

Premodern considered to be an oral tradition

Modern cuisine appears to be made specifically for the written text, but specifically a written text that is catered for a western audience

Postcolonial context: how does this affect the recipes that are presented to the western world? Are the reflective of an Indian desire to prove some credibility, reduce their "otherness" and unfamiliarity in the eyes of westerners?

It is suggested that in Indian cookbooks, there is a more bottom-up approach to try and show a variety of regional cuisines

However, the risk remains that not all aspects of each cuisine will be shown

A misunderstanding of the role of each region in the national image causes division within the country

Not only does the codification of recipes create the West as an Other, but it also creates difference amongst the individual regions of India — problematic

How can a national cuisine ever be trusted to form a stable national identity when change is always present, and the cuisine is continually evolving? Print does not guarantee stability and permanence (p. 17)

There is also evidence of de la Reynière's ideas in terms of attempting to transfer the social and cultural atmosphere in the production of these dishes to print, though it is at a compromise to making the dishes more appetising to others (p. 17)

There is always too much of an effort to assimilate the Indian culinary identity into a more accepted western mould, it would seem

While newer cookbooks attempt to create an overall national culinary identity through the selection of specific regional dishes, this is not necessarily always successful

With the progress of technology, smaller, poorer regions are gradually being pushed further out of the spotlight, and therefore risk being neglected in the overall identity created

Primary Reading, p. 400: Spanish cuisine acknowledges regional diversity as an integral aspect of national unity, is this regard of Indian attempts a failure? Or is it simply too difficult because of an even greater regional variance? Can there be an attempt to create a new dish that can be prepared in each individual region with nuances specific to that region?
P. 408: Original idea of Dr T. to create a book celebrating the different cuisines of each region, then spreading throughout Spain to facilitate greater knowledge, understanding, and interaction amongst the various regions. Similar to what has been suggested about Western Indian cookbooks — they largely focus on gathering various recipes form different regions.

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(The social world of new Indian cuisine)

One of the key aspects that stands out to me from this section is the striking similarity to the process described in this reading (1980s India) to the process we just studied in Revolutionary France:

-The importance of the middle class (India) or bourgeoisie (France) in leading the nationalisation of cuisine
-Availability of new ingredients
-Restaurants and public eating which breaks down (at least the appearance of) class/caste barriers
-Importance of women in this process as they are expected to do home cooking (but no male "tatstemakers" like France, unlike France, the authors of these cookbooks are mostly women)
-Importance of cookbooks, magazines, advertising and other media

On the other hand there are also some key differences:
-Predominence of women as cookbook authors
-Importance of family based oral tradition as basis for cookbooks, as opposed to great artisinal chefs like Careme
-In France "mobility" was the development of preservation which allowed goods to be transported. In India there is the mobility of people as they move around for jobs, forcing regional barriers to breakdown and regional castes to interact

Could the emergence of a national cuisine despite India's regional differences point to the possibility of an Australian national cuisine where ethnic/immigrant boundaries are transcended to form a coherent identity?

As this process continues, will India one day challenge the European cullinary powers' place as high cuisines?

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*The spread of cookbooks identified as "the civilising process". This is similar discourse to what we have previously discussed about the democratisation of cuisine and the centralisation of power.

SOCIAL WORLD OF THE NEW INDIAN CUISINE:

*Interesting to note that the majority of cookbook authors over the last 2 decades have been women. Is there a connection here between English literacy in India, gender and class?

*The interplay of regional inflection and national standardization reflected in the new cookbooks is the central preoccupation of this essay. It represents the culinary expression of a dynamic that is at the heart of the cultural formation of this new middle class. Cookbooks allow women from one group to explore the tastes of another, just as cookbooks allow women from one group to be represented to another*

*Identifies the oral exchange b/w family members (often female) as the first stage in the production of these cookbooks.

*While tensions remain across geographical/racial/class/language lines, the sharing of recipes in the "new urban middle-class" has lead to an increase in dining across these boundaries.

*Consider the role of family members & other societal pressures in changing/diversifying a woman/mothers cooking style?

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S1 pp 5-10 Leah & James
S2 pp 10-14 Kessada & Djano
S3 pp 14-18 Emily
S4 pp 18-22 Lakshani

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- Pioneered modern recipes, using "scientific method" - rules, laws, measurements, exactitude (allowing everyone to recreate recipes many times)
- Democratisation: Breaking the power of the Guilds to make recipes public and accessible
- Lecture: Codification (step by step instructions), Reproduction, Quality, Beauty
- Simplification: good, quality food
- Brigade System --> cleanliness and safety, professionalised, chain of command

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Applying the scientific method to cooking was not only a great way to achieve consistent results but also allowed far more people to cook.

Bringing recipes to the masses has had  an un-quantifiable impact on the world of food. The sharing of knowledge has resulted in more people being interested in cooking and thus the progression of the industry increased exponentially.

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Escoffier was the inventor of the brigade system which is still used in all professional kitchens across the globe today.

Before this, smoking and drinking alcohol were common occurrences in the kitchen.

A key taste-maker in the industrialisation of cooking.

In the lecture Jacqueline identified him as a 'second-wave' Carême.

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The video describes French culinary writer Auguste Escoffier - an alternative "Father of modern cooking"

Like Careme, Escoffier writes some of the first recipe books (Although he around 50 years later and followed Careme's example). The writing down of recipes "democratises" French cuisine because it makes it widely available an circumvents the Guilds which had previously controlled this information and withheld it from general public. This is another example of the "codification" of cuisine, or, as one chef describes it in the video, "cannonising" different "scientific priciples" of cooking, like laws and rules for how to cook.

Eg: Escoffier is credited in the video for the concept that "a pinch" of an ingredient means a quarter teaspoon.

Another inovation he is credited with is the "brigade" system of chefs and sous-chefs in restaurants that allows tasks to be divided between staff like an assembly line.

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Democratisation of French cuisine: creates the basis for similar change on a global scale

'canonise everything'/written not oral/codification

'Make it simple': no more excessive French cuisine, the simplicity of the modern cuisine becomes more prevalent, making access to this national identity far easier

Scientific principles: laws, rules, precision

the birth of the modern recipe format, as we know it today

Carême: strong focus on the rules given by the recipe

'by definition cookbooks proscribe as well as prescribe. In a word, they legislate.'

Published Le Guide Culinaire

Created the "Brigade System": kitchen sections and hierarchy

Far more egalitarian concept than the chef as an artist in the guild (lone genius)

Democracy in the kitchen

Consider the length of time between the French Revolution, and Escoffier's revolution of cooking and dining...

Builds on Carême's original ideas, but perhaps with more precision — cooking becomes a science

Who was actually the more modern of the two? What aspects do they differ in? What makes them more, or less modern than each other?

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The Birth of the Recipe
-          Augustus Escoffier: revolutionise way we cook

-          Regarded as the ‘father of modern cooking’

-          Decided to write down all his recipes therefore accessible to everyone

-          Codifies cuisine with detailed step-by-step instructions; where your grandma would simply say ‘a pinch of that’, Escoffier would say ‘it’s a quarter teaspoon’

-          Introduced scientific principles into cuisine. Key principle: ideas expressed as laws/rules which set down in a book therefore enabling you to make exact same dish every time

-          Escoffier had published the first recipe book – Le Guide Culinaire which is the bible to every great chef

-          After him, restaurant business began

-          With manual on how to cook, came how to mass produce

-          Brigade system where army-like reorganisation of kitchen staff, every chef in charge of a certain food

-          Regularity: everyone knows their place and what they’re doing

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The Birth of the Recipe | National Geographic

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DAY 7: Roser I Puig, M. 'What's cooking in Catalonia?'

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DAY 7: Roser I Puig, M. 'What's cooking in Catalonia?'

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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DAY 8: 'Gastronomic meal of the French' UNESCO 

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DAY 8: 'Gastronomic meal of the French' UNESCO 

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http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/gastronomic-meal-of-the-french-00437

Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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No Readings Project work DAY 4, DAY 5 or DAY 6

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No Readings Project work DAY 4, DAY 5 or DAY 6

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DAY 3: Appadurai, A. 'How to make a national cuisine: Cookbooks in contemporary India'

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DAY 3: Appadurai, A. 'How to make a national cuisine: Cookbooks in contemporary India'

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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DAY 2: 'The Birth of the Recipe' National Geographic 

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DAY 2: 'The Birth of the Recipe' National Geographic 

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?