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Tripod Lashing

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The top and bottom clove hitches should be downwards force clove hitches and the middle clove hitch should be an upwards force clove hitch

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• 2 half hitches as close to the round turn as possible

• 2 half hitches should thread over themselves

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1. Make a round turn on the pole
2. Tie 2 half hitches in the same direction

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How to tie a Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

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Name suggests how to tie

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Commonly used to secure boats to dock post or hammock to a tree

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Used to secure a rope to an object and allow the rope to turn in all direction (360 degrees)

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Hitches

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• Loop is formed around the standing end
• Rope is twisted around the working end itself

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1. Make a turn around the pole
2. Place working end under the standing end
3. Bring the working end upwards, across itself
4. Twist the working end around itself, at least thrice
5. Pull the working end perpendicular to the pole to tighten
6. Lock the timber hitch by pushing the loop towards the pole

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Working end twirls around loop

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• Often used for logging purposes
• Used to start a diagonal lashing

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To attach a rope to cylindrical object and works best when the working end is pulled perpendicularly to the knot

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Hitches

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Catepillar Knot, Chain Sinnet, Monkey Braid

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Artilleryman's Loop, Artillery Loop, Artillery Hitch

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Square Knot

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Slipped Overhand Knot

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Overhand Knot

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• Beware of pegs or other objects on the ground to avoid tripping
• Do not pull out the peg towards yourself
• Do not run with any hard objects
• Do not throw hard objects
• Peggers are to:
- Ensure surroundings are clear before pegging
- Hold the peg facing down when moving (do not let the sharp end face anyone)
- Ensure proper posture is maintained (backs straightened) while pegging

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Pictures/videos used to depict or demonstrate lashings in this section may not be completely accurate. Refer to "how to tie" and "how to check" sections for accurate instructions

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• At least 3 rounds of fraps and 3 complete rounds should be made around both axis
• Poles should not be able to slide past each other
• Knot should prevent the poles from turning on it's axis too far

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• Clove hitches must be side by side and on the same pole, same side
• At least 3 rounds of fraps and 3 complete rounds should be made
• Poles should not be able to slide past each other
• Knot should prevent the poles from turning too far
• Presence of turn on non-clove hitch pole

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• Clove hitches must be on opposite sides
• At least 3 rounds of fraps and 3 complete rounds should be made
• Poles should not be able to slide past each other
• Poles should be able to open up to form a tripod

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• Clove hitches must be on opposite sides
• At least 3 rounds of fraps are made
• Poles should not be able to slide past each other

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• Clove hitches must be on opposite sides
• No fraps
• Poles should not be able to slide past each other

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• Repeating patterns of loops wrapped round each other at the top and bottom with no deviations
• Knot should not unravel under tension
• Knot should completely unravel in one pull when last step is undone

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1. Form an overhand loop by wrapping the working end around and keep the working end facing down
2. Pass the standing part through the opposite end of the loop by pulling
3. Pull both the loop and the working end to tighten, forming a bight
4. Form a bight and pull it through the opposite side of the bight
5. Pull the base of the bight to tighten
6. Repeat step 4 and 5 until rope is shortened to desirable length (or until there is sufficient length at the working end to secure the knot), ensure that there is enough length at the working end to tighten in next step
7. Pass the working end completely through the bight to secure the rope

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• "π (pi shape)" can be seen on one side

• Loop securing both bases of the bight and bight securing one base of the loop

• Loop should not be adjustable when under tension

• The working end should be pointing towards the same side as the standing end (if the standing end is under the standing part as depicted in the image, the working end should point down, vice-versa)

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1. Form a "letter N"
2. Pass the right working end under the middle line and over the left line, forming an overhand loop on the right and bight on top
3. Pick up the left working end and the middle line nearest to the rope that was passed through in step 2
4. Pass the right working end under both lines and through the loop, forming an "upside-down triangle shape"
5. Pass the right working end through the upside-down triangle and under the bottom (which is facing up) side, pulling it so that it is parallel to the top side of the loop on the right
6. Hold the left working end with the "left side" of the loop with your left hand and the right working end with the "top side" of the loop with your right hand, pull to tighten

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• Three clear parallel lines secured by two loops
• Two bights at the ends that are sufficient to prevent the loops from slipping off
• Loops should stay in place and rope should not slip through under tension

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1. Form a "letter S" on a flat surface, forming a bight on the top left and bottom right sides
2. Form a loop on the right bight by going under and around the top and middle line with the right working end
3. Pass the right working end through the top and middle line
4. Pull to fasten, leave a decent bight on the end
5. Repeat for the left working end, but go around then under the bottom and middle line
6. Pass the left working end through the bottom and middle line
7. Pull to fasten, leave a decent bight on the end
8. Adjust the lines so that there are three distinct parallel lines and that the loops are fastened and in place
(Pull the bights evenly to adjust the length of the rope, ensure that the lines within the loops are parallel too)
9. Dress the knot

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• Loop in between 2 parallel lines

• "π (pi shape)" can be seen on one side

• Dressed knot should not capsize when force is applied

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1. Form an overhand loop
2. Fold the loop towards the left
3. Pull the standing part of the loop slightly through the loop
4. Twist the "bottom side" of the loop with the left base of the loop and pull to tighten
5. Twist both knots at the base of the loop to make it neat and beside each other

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• Working end (when tying) should lie within the bight
• A "triangle shape" can be seen on one side

• "π (pi) shape" can be seen on the other side

•  Loop should not be adjustable when ends are under tension

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1. Form an overhand loop
2. Pass the working end through the bottom of the loop
3. Pass the working end under the top base of the loop
4. Pass the working end through the top of the loop
5. Hold both the working end and bit of loop beside it together and the standing end and pull to tighten

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• Both working ends on the same side

• Knot should not unravel when either or both ends are under tension
• Presence of an interlocking mechanism

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1. Secure the left working end to the right working end by wrapping it over and under
2. The sides of the working ends have now "switched", secure the right working end to the left working end by wrapping it over and under
3. Pull both ends to tighten

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General:

• Common terms refer to words that are frequently used to describe things, especially technical names and processes

• Category refers to a family of common knots

• Function refers to the purpose of the knot

• Application refers to what the knot can be used for in real life

Function vs. application example:

Function: A police car is used to transport officers

Application: A police car is used to patrol the streets & respond to calls

Technical:

• Knots are tied in a rope or a piece of webbing

• Hitches connects a rope to another object like a pole or another rope

• Bends are knots that join two ropes together

• Standing part refers to the part of rope at the end of a loop or knot towards the standing end

• Bases of loops refer to the length of rope at the start and end of the loop

• Unravel refers to the knot becoming undone indirectly from tension or slackening of the rope

• Under tension refers to the rope being "pulled" constantly

• Slacken refers to the rope no longer being under tension; loose

• Fasten refers to pulling the loop securing a rope so that it stays in place, but not too tight that a knot becomes undone

• Tighten refers to pulling the working end and/or other parts of the rope so that it does not become easily undone under tension, but not too tight that it becomes too hard to undo

• Lines/sides refer to part of a rope in a shape or direction

• Form refers to manipulating the rope so that it creates a specific "shape"

• Forming refers to the resulting "shape" after the manipulation of the rope, which can mean what to look out for

• Fray/fraying refers to the end of a rope/twine loosening and unravelling

• Wind/winding refers to wrapping the rope/twine around something, typically a pole/spar

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• Parallel lines on the bottom
• Rope securing parallel lines on the top
• Rope and pole should not slip or unravel when under tension

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1. Make a complete round around the pole
2. Make another complete round around the pole, overlapping the first round
3. Pull the cross section of the rounds away from the pole and insert the working end underneath, below the middle of the cross section
4. Pull the working end to tighten and adjust to tidy the knot on the pole

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• Loop should be adjustable by pulling the loop to loosen or pulling the working end to tighten
• Knot should untie when pulled on the working end

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1. Form a loop by wrapping the working end around the standing end, keep the working end facing down
2. Reach through the opposite end of the loop and pull the standing part through
3. Pull both the loop and the working end to tighten

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• Forms a "number eight" shape

• Knot should not unravel or move when under tension

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• Parallel lines on the back
• Knot should not unravel or move when pulled

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• Forms a "pretzel" shape

• Knot should not unravel or move when pulled

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1. Form an overhand loop

2. Pass the working end under the standing end then through and out of the overside of the loop

3. Pull the working end to tighten

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1. Form an overhand loop

2. Pass the working end through and out of the underside of the loop twice

3. Pull the working end to tighten

4. Dress the knot by pushing both sides together

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1. Form an overhand loop

2. Pass the working end through and out of the underside of the loop

3. Pull the working end to tighten

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Clove hitch must be on opposite sides in between the pole in the middle

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Crosses of Clove Hitches must be on the opposite sides of the pole

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Crosses of Clove Hitches must be on the opposite sides of the pole & Clove Hitches tied around one pole

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360 seconds

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• Thumb: 3 seconds

• Double: 5 seconds

• Fo8: 5 seconds

• Slip: 5 seconds

• Clove: 8 seconds

• Timber: 8 seconds

• Reef: 8 seconds

• Bowline: 8 seconds

• Manharness: 8 seconds

• Sheepshank: 10 seconds

• Sheet: 12 seconds

• Chain: 12 seconds

• RT2H: 15 seconds

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5 seconds

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How to tie:
Tie half knot at one end and another half knot at the reverse side, repeat and finish off with a reef knot

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West country whipping- an easy paracord wrap

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Note: Peg before erecting the Flagstaff

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Remark: Erect flagstaff after pegging

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Note: Use West Country Whipping

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Attach and raise the flag with the nylon rope (halyard), then secure the halyard.

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Adjust the flagstaff until it is vertical, then secure the 3 guylines to their pegs simultaneously using a tent guy loop.

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Erect the flagstaff with one person holding on to the body of the flagstaff.

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Hammer the 3 pegs at an angle of 120° to one another, with respect to the base of the flagstaff, forming an equilateral triangle.

The distance of the pegs from the base of the flagstaff should be equal to the distance of the middle clove hitch to the base of the flagstaff.

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Tie a Manharness Knot in the middle of the 1.0m twine to form a pulley, tie the free ends of the Manharness Knot tightly to the top of the flagstaff using West Country Whipping at the "6 o’clock" position.

Run the nylon rope through the pulley to form a halyard.

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Secure three pieces of the 5.5m manila hemp to the middle, between the two round lashings, using clove hitches.

All three clove hitches should be of downward force facing the base spar, with one tied the opposite direction from the other two.

Adjust the clove hitches such that the crosses of all three clove hitches are on the base spar, with the standing ends at about 120° to one another, extending in the “12 o’clock", “4 o’clock”, and “8 o’clock” directions.

There should be no gap between each hitch.

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Using the two pieces of 3.0m manila hemp, bind the two spars together with round lashing.

The thicker spar will be the bottom/base spar, and the recommended length of overlapping portion should be 1/2 to 1/3 of each spar.

The round lashings should be 1 palm length away from the end of the overlapping portion.

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• ×2 3.0m Spars
• ×4 Pegs (Extra peg as mallet included)
• ×2 3.0 metre Manila Hemp
• ×3 5.5 metre Manila Hemp
• ×1 1.0 metre Twine (For Manharness Knot)
• ×1 10.0 metre Nylon Rope
• ×1 Flag