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Hamilton's View from what is now the Fire Tower, 1866

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Hamilton's View from what is now the Fire Tower, 1866

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“Panorama, Overlooking the Cumbum Valley.” Douglas Hamilton’s Sketches of the Pulni Mountains (1866) (WD 1350 #4) (Image photographed at the British Library, 2019).

The dark ridge in the foreground is what some of us came to name "the Mushroom Ridge" in the 1980s. Pictures from our expedition to its summit are featured later in this Padlet.

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1903 The oldest tree in the Palni Hills - Syzgium densilor 

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1903 The oldest tree in the Palni Hills - Syzgium densilor 

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14m width, photos taken in 1903 by priests and later in 1994.

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Walking on a trail through bracken - early 1900s

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Walking on a trail through bracken - early 1900s

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Devil's Kitchen entrance (Guna cave) - early 1900s

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Devil's Kitchen entrance (Guna cave) - early 1900s

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"On the Way" one of the oldest photos of hiking amongst grasslands and ferns.  (1920s)

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"On the Way" one of the oldest photos of hiking amongst grasslands and ferns.  (1920s)

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Before the advent of digital mapping and satellite-based navigation generations of hikers in Kodai relied on Survey of India (SOI) topographic maps. They were mostly available at the 1:50,000 scale and the SOI is now issuing 1:25,000 maps that are ideal for hiking. Unfortunately these are difficult to get a hold of and require special permission. I have come to appreciate the early cartography at the SOI and have been working to obtain digital copies of these which a group of us is using to better understand land cover changes. This is a 1” sheet (1: 63,360) that was published in 1923. I obtained it from the British Library (for a fee) in 2018 and I have reduced the size to be able to share it here. The early 20th Century maps of the Western Ghats do an exquisite job with detailing elevation using contour lines and shading. David Dickason (KS ‘56?) has been guiding me in my pursuit and he is the most knowledgeable person in our community about SOI efforts to map the Palani Hills. This sheet was one of the most useful ones as it details the Kodai-Berijam-Vandaravu area and escarpments.

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Early photo of Dolphin's nose - early 1930s

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Early photo of Dolphin's nose - early 1930s

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Missionary families camping out and taking picnics were a common activity over the 'season' time.

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A sketch I did, from a photo from 1941 Yearbook. Hiker likely on the ridge above 'Coolie Ghat' (now known as 'Cityview'). Perumalmalai in background. Barbara Block

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Another sketch I did based on a photo in the 1946 yearbook. Probably from a class camp on Long Weekend, but information on when and where is not provided. Caption is 'thirsty?' Barbara Block

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Dolmen Cairn with Fr. Ugarte (pc K M Mathew)

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Dolmen Cairn with Fr. Ugarte (pc K M Mathew)

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From Dolphin's Nose down to Vellagavi village 1968

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From Dolphin's Nose down to Vellagavi village 1968

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On a trip to Kodai in 1968, I chose to walk down to the plainns rather than take the bus. (John Malaiperuman ex '63)

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- p.c John Malaiperuman '63

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- p.c. John Malaiperuman '63

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The children of Vellagavi at the temple.

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The children of Vellagavi at the temple.

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- p.c John Malaiperuman '63

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Kukkal Forest Rest House - photo take in 1994

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Kukkal Forest Rest House - photo take in 1994

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Black and Whites from a hike to Berijam Lake 1972

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Black and Whites from a hike to Berijam Lake 1972

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Fixing a Tire on the Road to Berijam 1972

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Fixing a Tire on the Road to Berijam 1972

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Resting on the Road to Berijam - the other Side of it 1972

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Ulmar Grafe and  resting in the Grasland - 1972

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Al Shaw resting in Vellagavi Village 1973

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Villagers from Vellagavi bringin fruits to the market in Kodai

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Villagers from Vellagavi bringin fruits to the market in Kodai

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Comming up from Vellagavi to the Market at Kodai 1973

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Vellagavi children bringin Fruits to Kodai

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Vellagavi children bringin Fruits to Kodai

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From Vellagavi to the Market in Kodai 1973

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Vellagavi - Outside the Village Temple - 1973

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They insisted I take a photograph of them. They took up position on their own accord. What do you notice?

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On the way to Elephant Valley - Village Huts 1973

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Vellagavi or on the Way to Elephant Valley 1973

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Joan and Dave Mayer - Tedd Lewellen - Kathy Knight - Steve Staal 1973

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Joan and Dave Mayer - Tedd Lewellen - Kathy Knight - Steve Staal 1973

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Hike to Elephant Valley Fall

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Joan and Dave Mayer - Tedd Lewellen - Kathy Knight - Steve Staal 1973

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On the Hike to Vellagavi looking back 1973

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In the Plains, after a hike to Tope 1973

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In the Plains, after a hike to Tope 1973

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Is it the same or a similar Bullock Cart? 1973

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Is it the same or a similar Bullock Cart? 1973

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On the way from Tope to our pick-up point 1973

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p.c. Jerry Nichol

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Clowning around on the Class of 1988 camp to Berijam lake.

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Gayatri Jayaraman & Amer Farid, Berijam, 1985

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Gayatri Jayaraman & Amer Farid, Berijam, 1985

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Class of 1988 camp on the edge of Berijam Lake. July or August 1985.

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Mushroom Ridge, Berijam Ridge & Cumbum Valley from Fire Tower, 1986

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Mushroom Ridge, Berijam Ridge & Cumbum Valley from Fire Tower, 1986

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Compare this view with Hamilton's 1866 sketch. This was one of my first attempts to make a panoramic image using a series of still images. I only stitched the digital files together recently. We had climbed up on the roof of the fire tower while Hamilton would have been on a hill without eucy trees etc.

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Tim Miller (Class of 1988) on the Kukkal Cliffs

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Tim Miller (Class of 1988) on the Kukkal Cliffs

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This was taken on a day walk out to Kukkal cave with Alice and Gary Paul. It took us a while but we found the cave and then had to turn around and return to Kodai. I inadvertently brought back a leech in my armpit and only discovered it that evening after showering and going to the Formal. My one na donly dress shirt was soaked with blood and I hadn't felt a thing.

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We had spent the night sheltering under an overhang near the lower stream after failing to find the actual cave the night before. Here we're catching some sunlight before heading off to join the larger group at Manjampatti Valley. Tim Miller, Philipp von Oppen, Matthew King, David Carman & James Rees (in the back).

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Hiking into the Manjampatti tahr camp site from Kukkal on an epic hike. Tim Miller (KIS 1988)  is the closest to the camera. We joined the larger group that had come to the camp site via the traditional path (through Manavanur). Other people in the group included Matthew King, Philipp Von Oppen, David Carman, James Rees & Steve Tegenfelt. Dr. Tegenfelt was our chaperon & leader.

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The school camp site at Manjampatti Valley during Tahr Camp in January 1986. In the picture are Gayatri Reddy, Kalyan Gandhi, Tim Miller, Sandy Schoeninger and others.

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Sometime in the fall of 1986 a group of adventure seeking Loch End residents hiked out and explored a ridge descending down from the main escarpment near the Fire Tower. We named it for the shape not for any psychoactive fungi-which many people assumed. The sharp granite edge rises above a shola and then drops several hundred meters towards the Periyakulam plains. We never saw the drop because of the clouds and on two subsequent visits I have always been int he mist. Viewed on the lower part is Joerg Gabriel and Gabby Vallerie (both Class of 1989).

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Crazy Loch Enders on the Mushroom Ridge 1986

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Crazy Loch Enders on the Mushroom Ridge 1986

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Loch End boys on the Mushroom Ridge after scrambling to the top. We had no idea of how far it dropped off on the other side. From the left: Yebabe Mengesha. Joachim Leushner, Joerg Gabriel. Matthew King, Gaby Valerie & Ian Lockwood. Photo taken by Philipp von Oppen presumably.

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For so many generations of students at KIS Tope was a wonderful Saturday getaway. Of course it had also been a place that some of the earliest visitors had passed as they walked (or were carried) up to the high plateau. Up until the 1990s there were few others that seemed to appreciate Tope's slides and cool pools.

Note that on this trip of Loch Enders we are using a rope as the water levels were high.

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On our November visit we found the water to be quite dangerous. Here we're testing the main slide with the aid of a simple rope. If I remember correctly we decided to move downstream to the safer pools and the whole group did not swim here. My view camera is in the foreground. Somewhere I have 4x5 black and white negatives of this scene.

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On a dorm trip to Tope at the end of the first semester (November) we found the Main Slife to have too much water to safely swim and slide. Exploring downstream we discovered that this deep pool had a powerful jet of water that propelled you out over some otherwise dangerous and bumpy rocks. The local boys thought we were crazy by Joachim Leuschner tried it out and survived. Soon the rest of us were taking turns.

Coming out of the water is Lisa Buker. Sabine Noel is in the slide. On the side Mark and Caroline O'Sullivan and Kiroush Kianpour (sp?) and others wait their turn.

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Bharati Pflug, Brian and Ian Lockwood on an exploratory camp to the bottom of Rattail bottom. The final section involves some rather serious climbing, leaping and gymnastics in order to navigate the house size boulders. The actual bottom is a surreal dark lake surround on three side by the towering granite walls. The hike can only be accomplished when it is dry. Photograph by Merrick Lockwood

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The long walk out from Manjampatti Valley to the Munnar-Udumalpet road in Chinnar WLS passes this impressive canyon. We had plans to explore it but its remoteness made it quite impossible. The area is now protected in the Anamalai Tiger Reserve and there is no access for hikers unfortunately.

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Rostam Puladi (KIS '91)

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Pippa with back to us

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Jayant Mehta (KIS '91)

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Young-Un Pae, Feler Bose, Rostam Puladi, Nandan Pathak, Karthik Vasudevan, Jayant Mehta

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Karthik Vasudevan (KIS '91) and fellow hiker at

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After the long hike out from the Manjampati Tahr camp site you reach the Tamil Nadu - kerala border in what is  now Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. In January 1988 there was no bridge and this was a favorite place to cool off before we met the KIS bus and were driven back to Kodai via Udumalpet and Palani. In the image. Hanging from the wire is

Anders Jøranli. Anree Lalvani is in the air. In the back are Matthew King, Mette & Trine  Jøranli, Karin Lockwood, Matthew King, Jae Gap Chung, Bharati Pflug. Mark Tegenfelt  and several others.

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The small Shivite shrine on the hill overlooking Kukkal Shola is a peaceful place with outstanding views over Manjampatti on a clear day.

This picture was taken on our way up after camping at Kukkal Caves. The trek was done in late May to celebrate our graduation from KIS. From the left: Matthew King, Bharati Pflug, Ruth Lockwood, Karin Lockwood and Merrick Lockwood. The camera had gotten dropped in a stream but the film managed to come out with a few blemishes.

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Lockwoods & Dejongs Preparing to Enter Kukkal (Leech) Shola, January 1996

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Lockwoods & Dejongs Preparing to Enter Kukkal (Leech) Shola, January 1996

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Getting ready to explore Kukkal's shola and grasslands. From Left: Ian Lockwood, Merrick Lockwood, Hans DeJong, Anna Lockwood, Bruce DeJong, (Bob's friend), and Terra Dejong.

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We were prepared for leeches using a variety of methods. Merrick Lockwood has his classic chappals of course. It was actually so cold (and dry) that January day that the famous leeches never came out!

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Anna Lockwood exploring the Kukkal ridge in crisp winter weather. These hills harbor the last undisturbed montane grasslands in the Palani Hills. They are protected by the Kukkal (Leech) Shola and the fact that they are in Coimbaroe District and now included as a part of the Anamalai Tiger Reserve. The distant ridge is part of the Anamalai Hills while eh edge of Manjampatti valley is to the left.

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Note the dim blue line above the horizon...the Nilgiris showing up on a clear December day in 2002. Taken on a "bachelor party" with friends and family hike a few days before Ian & Raina's wedding.

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Perumal Summit, Looking North-West, December 2002

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Perumal Summit, Looking North-West, December 2002

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Looking along the norther boundary of the Palanis towards the Anamalai Hills. The Nilgiris are visible on the horizon. In the photograph: Mary & Frank Emerson and Merrick Lockwood.

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Merrick Lockwood on Kukkal Ridge December  2002

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Merrick Lockwood on Kukkal Ridge December  2002

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Climbing out of Leech Shola to the temple at Pampalammalai on a chilly December morning.

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The view from Pampalam Malai towards Kukkal cave (not actually visible here) across the grassy ridge is a stunning example of the montane grasslands vegetation. Note the Nilgiri Hills in the background. In the foreground a Rhododendron arboreum tree is in flower. Several years later I had a chance to climb the two peaks in this image. See my blog post for details: https://ianlockwood.wordpress.com/2012/09/11/kukkal-beyond-the-last-ridge/

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3D Topo Map of Kodai: similar to one given the school in 2000

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3D Topo Map of Kodai: similar to one given the school in 2000

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For a long time the road passing over Vandaravu was famous for being the "highest motorable road south of the Himalaya." Many of us hiked by it on the 2nd day of the 80 Mile hike.

The road is, of course, famous for being built as an emergency escape route (from a possible Jappanese invasion) in the 1940s. It was used by Frank Jayasinghe and the Sri Lankan staff and students to secretly leave Kodai during the tumultuous period in July 1983.

Vandaravu was only recently (1970s?) planted with wattle and pine but it is completely overgrown now. The road was blocked by the TN FOrest Department around 1999-2000 in an effort to prevent "miscreants" and others from Kerala coming over.

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Merrick Lockwood (KS 1959) and Arjun Kholhatkar (KIS 2008?) with a gaur skull that we found on the way to Gundar pools. We left it there.

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This hike was used as a conditioning B hike in early 2020's. This picture about 2008 or 9. Later it became a regular part of the tahr camp outings when tahr camp base was the last plantation 'outside' the forest (no overnights in forest land allowed). Barbara Block

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Ibex Cliffs sketch, 'Back of the 80', 2008. 

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Ibex Cliffs sketch, 'Back of the 80', 2008. 

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Back of the 80 Long Weekend hikes started from Pondi. Hikers arrive the night before, for a night in the camp site, organizing and packing of gear, and started the following morning, hiking via the Block Pass to the Munnar Road, going past Marion Shola and following remants of the old 80 mile path to the cliffs. An overnight camp (early versions, on the cliff near streams/springs, then in the meadow below the 'steep climb' when increasing difficulties on trails with fallen trees, slowed the hikers down. A day trip the second day to the cliffs and back to camp that night, and return to Pondi the following day...if time allowed, a side trip to Marion Shola view. Day trips allow for time to sit and draw....

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2008 mini 2 Back of the 80 Ibex Cliffs  'cleaned'

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When I was in Munnar in 2013, I took a trip to Topstation to see if I could see the Kodai area. I
mistook this look alike Perumal for the actual thing. Ian Lockwood has informed me that it is another peak, not Perumal. Thanks Ian.

John Malaiperuman