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The OBLIQUE EASi stencil, is an aid to drawing in oblique projection quickly and accurately. Ideal for design work at all levels. This stencil, along with the SKETCH EASi stencil (for isometric drawing with ease) are the only stencils you will need to develop your pupils 3D drawing and sketching.

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http://www.technologystudent.com/despro_flsh/obliq_stencil1.html

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Today I got a Land's End catalog in the mail that showed some too-perfect children toting new backpacks with big letters underneath saying "IT'S TIME!" Wait, what? Don't try to cut my summer short, people. And don't even think about saying those three words: Back. To. School. Ok, who am...

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/MagiDeal-Electric-Plotter-Drawing-Educational/dp/B07F9PSZBF/ref=pd_day0_hl_21_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07F9PSZBF&pd_rd_r=f0e6d455-2e33-11e9-971e-8bef447a7f02&pd_rd_w=zKTQ6&pd_rd_wg=f3RA4&pf_rd_p=92d624bb-a334-423e-8722-8024dd09667f&pf_rd_r=71FNWWCHRFDQEK6H6DX7&psc=1&refRID=71FNWWCHRFDQEK6H6DX7

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https://www.instructables.com/id/Word-Crayons/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email

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The world, experienced through the hands of a maker is a malleable place. Making things and making things happen, are means of exploring what we don't know. Our studios provide space for our ideas to unfold, but the walls of our studio also confine our practice to a particular place.

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https://www.rakunew.com/items/78197

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My Drawing Board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

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my drawing board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

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My Drawing Board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

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国内価格:¥ 47,090, 絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「My Drawing Board（マイドローイングボード）」のご紹介です。 My Drawing Board（マイドローイングボード）はあらゆるクリエイティブに最適なコンパニオン。収納スペース付きでデスク上もすっきりオーガナイズでき

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My Drawing Board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.keywords[]
my drawing board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
My Drawing Board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
国内価格:¥ 47,090, 絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「My Drawing Board（マイドローイングボード）」のご紹介です。 My Drawing Board（マイドローイングボード）はあらゆるクリエイティブに最適なコンパニオン。収納スペース付きでデスク上もすっきりオーガナイズでき

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.provider_name
My Drawing Board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.keywords[]
my drawing board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
My Drawing Board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
国内価格:¥ 47,090, 絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「My Drawing Board（マイドローイングボード）」のご紹介です。 My Drawing Board（マイドローイングボード）はあらゆるクリエイティブに最適なコンパニオン。収納スペース付きでデスク上もすっきりオーガナイズでき

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.provider_name
My Drawing Board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.keywords[]
my drawing board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
My Drawing Board｜絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「マイドローイングボード」

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
国内価格:¥ 47,090, 絵を描くのに必要なアイテムをすっきりと収納するドローイングテーブル「My Drawing Board（マイドローイングボード）」のご紹介です。 My Drawing Board（マイドローイングボード）はあらゆるクリエイティブに最適なコンパニオン。収納スペース付きでデスク上もすっきりオーガナイズでき

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5d8eVrz0TI

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How to make a DIY Longboard | WICKED MAKERS

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How to make a DIY Longboard | WICKED MAKERS

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GIF Player Out of Paper - IPhone Live Photos in Paper

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It is that time of the year when people are looking for the perfect way to express love and gratitude to that special person. Are you gifting chocolates? Flowers? A...

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GIF Player Out of Paper - IPhone Live Photos in Paper

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It is that time of the year when people are looking for the perfect way to express love and gratitude to that special person. Are you gifting chocolates? Flowers? A...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
GIF Player Out of Paper - IPhone Live Photos in Paper

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It is that time of the year when people are looking for the perfect way to express love and gratitude to that special person. Are you gifting chocolates? Flowers? A...

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https://www.fastcodesign.com/1671494/an-ingenious-expandable-lamp-inspired-by-a-hoberman-sphere

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In its toy form, the Hoberman Sphere defines the term "fun for all ages." No matter how young or old you are, it's impossible to fully anticipate the effect as this lattice explodes in your hands-expanding its diameter five times-to become a giant, unwieldy dome.

Case in point: Designer Erik Stehmann (who we've featured before) never encountered the toy as a child, but as an adult, a Hoberman Sphere he received as a gift fascinated him. The fascination soon permeated his work, and he began considering the application of the geometric principles behind the sphere to everyday appliances. The result was his Expanding lamp. On one hand, it's a Hoberman Sphere with a light bulb. Yet on the other, it's a carefully crafted light fixture that can transform from desk lamp to floor lamp in seconds.

The project originally piqued his intellect as a diversion from his normal design patterns: Rather than build something complicated that looks simple, Stehmann had the urge to build something that was simple but looked complicated. Even still, the lamp's realization was painstaking. "It has taken a lot of calculating and trial and error to discover the appropriate angles of each piece," Stehmann tells Co.Design. "Normally, I don't sketch when I design, but in this case, I have had to use my computer to draw all the pieces, then calculate the angles and lengths of the arms."

Behind the geometry, Stehmann hides a bit of clever physics to realize the idea fully. The light bulb itself serves as a counterweight, which keeps the lamp standing. Meanwhile, a connected pulley system maintains the relative position of the bulb, whether the lamp is in floor or desk mode. Together, these two innovations make what would be a total gimmick into a usable, even practical, lamp.

As of now, the Expanding Lamp is only a working prototype. Stehmann plans to refine it with cheaper materials (both wood and plastic) in the coming year.

See more here.

[Hat tip: designboom]

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An Ingenious Expandable Lamp, Inspired By A Hoberman Sphere

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In its toy form, the Hoberman Sphere defines the term "fun for all ages." No matter how young or old you are, it's impossible to fully anticipate the effect as this lattice explodes in your hands-expanding its diameter five times-to become a giant, unwieldy dome.

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https://www.scrapbook.com/store/kai-sb2227.html

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https://mrbench.en.alibaba.com/product/1121099984-219334349/wood_modern_adjustable_height_children_desk_and_chair.html

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Not long ago, one fine day or one dark night, depending on your time zone, the Octo Stool met Ponoko. They fell in love. Out of their hi-tech union came PonOcto. The PonOcto stool is hopefully the first in the new "Ponokofied" phase of Tom Kluyskens' plywood furniture designs. Previously the New Zealand designer used more traditional CNC workshops to fabricate various plywood furniture and admits that his maximum yield layouts caused some friction between him and the fabricators.

At the mercy of NZ's two degrees of separation, Tom kept coming across people from the Ponoko community, which got him more and more interested in digifabbing. At one stage he met Dave Ten Have and was a little star struck. Tom's first project with Ponoko was a little lasercut felt container for candies that he sent out to people as a gift when his daughter was born. The container is based on a geometric shape that folds on itself to make a perfectly contained volume. Tom is now keen to write a customizer for it, so others can make their own using the Ponoko API. The CNC cutting service was something that Tom anticipated with much eagerness, and as soon as it was announced, he redesigned his established Octo stool to work with the Ponoko system. He couldn't resist the name PonOcto, probably not even realising that the stool was to be Ponoko's first CNC order. Bonus points for symbolism.

Making with Ponoko meant that Tom was able to apply innovative changes to some of his processes, such as combining lasercutting and CNC routing. Previously he used colour-laminated ply, or painted the cut pieces, but for the first PonOcto prototype he laminated feature ply surfaces with laser cut acrylic. Tom is incredibly enthusiastic about the possibilities presented by precise control over laminate finishing and is looking at incorporating selective lamination, hidden joinery detail, etc in his future designs. Tom's furniture material of choice is clearly plywood, which he selected for its durability as well as availability of sustainably harvested options. His designs feature friction joints, so material stability is extremely important for precision cutting to ensure correct thicknesses and profiles. Before assembly, all the CNC cut pieces require sanding, which means that, for the time being at least, PonOcto stools cannot be shipped from the fabricator directly to the customer, as they have to be hand finished by the designer.

More from the designer after the jump:

How would you describe your creative process? My process is inspired by my 10+ years of experience in visual effects. Practically, it means that after a quick jot on paper, I pretty much immediately reach out for the digital tools. Rhino for modeling, and SideFX Houdini for the parametric stuff. My pieces evolve while iterating digitally. And I do everything to make that iteration process as quick as possible. Whereas I was setting up digital rigs for spaghetti twisters and Balrog fire in my movie days, I now make parametric rigs for my furniture and other stuff. The considerable difference being the immense satisfaction of seeing my creations turn to real objects! I also deeply enjoy the physical work involved in finishing the pieces, though really, there isn't much finishing to do.

On a less practical level, still inspired by movie work, my pieces are a little whimsical, and the digital tools and interfaces I work on have strong cinematic influences: photoreal, dynamic, very polished visually, but also interactive and realtime. I'm using Unity3D a lot. Just like in movies, I'm interested in creating experiences rather than just products. Have you been surprised by anything in the Ponoko process? I am a fervent supporter of this manufacturing paradigm that's - let's be honest- still very much in its infancy. I find it amazing Ponoko somehow finds a way to keep going while still being so much ahead of the curve that there really isn't a market to speak of yet. I deeply deeply respect Ponoko for leading the way, time after time, towards what's clearly a better and more relevant alternative for making things.

The manufacturing side of the service is viable for only a limited (yet growing) set of products, but these are the limitations of any new paradigm. Tools and materials will undoubtedly evolve, but more importantly, services like Ponoko force us to rethink the way we make things, to fit into a new, and ultimately better manufacturing framework. In my specific case, my joinery becomes more and more intricate, to the point of being engineered, so I can use flat sheet type materials that are cut based on 2D shapes. Pieces that slowly but surely start to compete with products from more traditional but less and less relevant manufacturing models.

By realeasing their API, it opens up the business to one of the major upsides of the digital fabrication paradigm: apps that allow parametric customization of products. As such, in my eyes, Ponoko instantly became much more true to itself, and prepared for a very bright future indeed. I certainly plan to develop a few of those apps in the near future.
http://madeonjupiter.com/ http://www.ponoko.com/design-your-own/products/2-ponocto-stools-5972

Make your own stuff using: Laser Cutting

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Not long ago, one fine day or one dark night, depending on your time zone, the Octo Stool met Ponoko. They fell in love. Out of their hi-tech union came PonOcto.The PonOcto stool is hopefully the first in the new "Ponokofied" phase of Tom Kluyskens' plywood furniture designs.

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Sur Instagram, l'artiste David Szilagyi dresse un portrait inquiétant et effrayant des Pokémon... ces mignonnes créatures qui ont bercé notre enfance.
Quand on parle de Pokémon, on repense forcément à ces petites créatures toutes plus mignonnes les unes que les autres qui ont marqué notre enfance. Mais pour l'illustrateur David Szilagyi, les Pokémon ne sont pas si innocents que ça... Cet artiste s'est lancé dans un projet baptisé "Creepy Pokemon" qui consiste à revisiter, comme son nom l'indique, les célèbres créatures en monstres plus effrayants que jamais.

Pikachu, Rondoudou, Salamèche et les autres revêtent un tout autre visage dans cet univers sombre qui nous rappellerait presque les créations de Tim Burton. "J'ai été élevé avec Scary Stories to Tell in the Dark, Beksinski, H.R. Giger, Hear of Darkness, H.P. Lovecraft, Guillero Del Toro, Pokémon, Zelda, Final Fantasy, Dead Space, F.E.A.R., Slender, Silent Hill, Akira, The Guyver et tout un tas de grands classiques." explique l'artiste. Une série d'oeuvres qui ont sans aucun doute inspiré l'univers inquiétant de ses créations.

Pour en savoir plus sur David Szilagyi, rendez-vous sur son Patreon ou sur son compte Instagram. Et si vous aimez les Pokémon, on vous laisse consulter les illustrations réalistes de Joshua Dunlop.

Goupix

Rondoudou

Miaouss

Pikachu

Herbizarre

Têtarte

Psykokwak

Triopikeur

Ramoloss

Salamèche

Flagadoss

Dracaufeu

Carapuce

Machoc

Tortank

Roucoups

Grotadmorv

Akwakwak

Ponyta

Crustabri

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20 designers créatifs qui veulent révolutionner votre maison

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Nous vous proposons de découvrir 20 meubles créatifs de designers qui vont littéralement révolutionner votre maison. Suite au succès de notre vidéo Facebook sur les designers créatifs (50 millions de vues en 3 jours !), vous avez été très nombreux à nous demander où vous procurer ces fameux meubles créatifs que nous mettons en avant.

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Modern Wall Clock, Laser Cut Clock, Birch Wood Clocks, Unique Wall Clock, Decor and Housewares, Home Decor - $62.00 USD

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Shannybeebo Clocks brings the outdoors in with this birch wood wall clock. Custom handmade from a solid wood base, the numbers are laser cut making them completely see through. Hanging this clock on any wall...dark, light or patterned will optimize it's appeal. You will be able to see the wall through the numbers!

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A Simulated Environment of Engineering Design

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Student Work 2012 The brief was to create a typography installation. I knew that I wanted to work with acrylic, and decided to create an installation that could be used as part of an advertising campaign for an event such as the Melbourne International ...

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luxO's Open Joinery 32" Smart Mirror is a cool joinery design that Kasey put together while we were working on the design for our Smart Mirror kit. It looks great, is easy to assemble, easy to CNC and is really unique in its design and approach. We hope you'll like it as much as we do!

Features include:

Instructions and hardware for easy assembly

Sleek Japanese-inspired design

Customizable display with Raspberry Pi*

Reflective glass, not acrylic, 6mm thick and easy to clean

Start your day right!

Materials Needed

1. Monitor - 32", available from Amazon or a local store

2. Glass - We use 6.34mm (1/4") thick Reflective Glass from a local glass store. It's about $150 just for the glass but it doesn't scratch like acrylic, lasts forever and is easy to clean

3. Frame wood - Choose a good hardwood like Walnut or Oak, should be about 19mm thick and 150 mm wide, 3.8 linear meters. Obviously it doesn't have to be one piece but do make sure your facing pieces come from the same piece of wood so the grains match, we made that mistake our first attempt

4. Dowels - You can match the wood or use metal, available at wood hobby shops or online

5. Raspberry Pi w/Case (we used Raspberry Pi3 with a Class 10 SD card)

6. MicroUSB to USB cord for power

7. HMDI cord for display

8. Velcro strip with sticky backs

9. Optional wireless keyboard & mouse

Tools Needed

Small Hammer, Mallet or Coconut & a piece of driftwood if you're on a deserted island.

*If you are working with an RTA Kit from luxOmat, the Raspberry Pi comes pre-programmed with:

Lovely Compliments

Clock display

7 day weather forecast

News feed

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luxO's Open Joinery 32" Smart Mirror is a cool joinery design that Kasey put together while we were working on the design for our Smart Mirror kit. It looks great, is easy to assemble, easy to CNC and is really unique in its design and approach.

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富士見村の現代からくりおもちゃ館にて撮影。

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Our Inventing with Electronics for Beginners Arduino starter kit helps people from all walks of life join the maker movement. Start making today at Makexchange

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USB Charging Robot Lamp // Woodworking How To

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See how I made a USB charger/Robot Lamp!

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The Arduino is a cheap, fun way to get into building your own electronics. It can also be daunting to get started. Here, we'll show you how to get a start-to-finish Arduino primer with a killer project: building a sweet robot arm.

In this guide, we're going to introduce you to Arduino using the meArm robot arm project as a guide to a variety of skills. The meArm is an open-source kit with all the parts you need to build a small, Arduino-powered robotic arm. You can order a ready-made set from stores like Hackaday, or download the plans from Thingiverse and cut them out yourself. You can use a laser cutter, 3D printer, or even carve the parts out of wood. The kits are relatively cheap (I got mine for about $50), so it's pretty accessible.

Why a Robot Arm?

Learning any new skill is always a challenge. Arduino can be particularly daunting because you're essentially learning how to build entire electronic devices from scratch. It requires learning several new skills all at once: electricity, breadboarding, coding, sensors, servos, remote controls, assembly, and more.

Any of these skills can be hard to learn on their own. While there are a wealth of tutorials online, it's important to have a single, overarching goal that you can work towards. We also know that your brain learns better when you spread out your learning over time. Having something you're excited about couldn't hurt.

Building a robot arm is a long-term project that can cover all these needs at once. I've personally been attempting to learn Arduino projects off-and-on for the last nine months or so, and in that time, the robot arm has been the best learning experience I've had, particularly because:

It's comprehensive: Finding a first project is hard. Finding one that will actually teach you something is even harder. You can build an LED circuit fairly easily, but then all you have is an LED circuit. Learning to build a robot arm will teach you how to breadboard a circuit, how to program your Arduino, and how to work with moving parts. In the end, you'll have a real, physical thing that does what you program it to do. Not just a proof-of-concept light that turns on when you press a button.

It's expandable: If Iron Man's 45 different suits taught us anything, it's that you can always improve a robot. This robot arm kit starts with some basic fundamental skills, but you can build on it with a wide variety of expansions. You can add remote controls (like Infrared or Bluetooth), and even learn how to expand your Arduino's capabilities with extra shields. Just ask "What else can I make this do?" and you can find all sorts of new skills to learn without starting a new project over from scratch.

It's friggin' cool: Chances are, if you're even reading this far, it's because the thought of having your very own robot excites you. Robots are cool. They can also feel futuristic and inaccessible. If learning is better when you're excited about what you're learning, then it's hard to beat a robot arm to break into the Arduino world.

All that being said, this doesn't necessarily mean that this should be your first ever project. It can be! But if you've never touched a circuit board, it's okay to take it slow. Don't think of the robot arm as your first step. Think of it as your final exam. As soon as you get a good Arduino starter kit, you should try a couple basic things like plugging an LED into a breadboard or controlling it with a button, just to get the hang of it. You can probably skip the Love-O-Meter project, though.

Most importantly, Google everything. Remember, this is a long-term project. We're not going to walk you through every step, but we will show you the building blocks you need to get there. Don't expect to start with no experience on Friday and finish with a remote-controlled, sentient robot by Sunday. We'll have plenty of links to guides throughout this article, and we fully expect that you'll leave here, follow those guides for a few hours, and come back. Think of this less like a step-by-step manual and more like a map. If you get a little lost along the way, don't be afraid to stop and ask for directions.

What You'll Need

This guide will be divided into two main sections. The first will be getting the basic robot arm built and operational. The second will show you some optional projects that you can use to expand its capabilities. To get through the first section, here's what you'll need:

An Arduino starter kit: Most Arduino starter kits will include the basic components you'll need for this project (as well as many others). You'll need an Arduino (we'll use an Uno R3), various lengths of wire, a USB cable to connect to your computer, and a breadboard, and a potentiometer, which can be used as a knob for controlling your robot later on. Adafruit has a selection of a few starter kits here for varying price ranges. This kit in particular includes everything listed above for $65. You may also need a 470uf capacitor later on, which you can pick up at RadioShack for dirt cheap.

A meArm kit: For simplicity's sake, you can buy an entire kit here. This includes everything you need to build the arm itself. Optionally, you can download the plans here and make them yourself. The plans do require very precise sizes, so only use this option if you have access to tools that can cut (or 3D print) the pieces correctly.

An Arduino IDE: An IDE (or Integrated Development Environment) is the program you'll use to write and upload software-called "sketches"-to your Arduino. You can download the official Arduino IDE here. In my personal experience, I found that previously-covered CodeBender is an excellent, browser-based alternative that stores your sketches online for easy access.

These will get you started and cover the basics. It's also a lot to buy all at once, so don't feel bad if you don't want to go any further than this. Over time, you can add more tools and equipment to your arsenal.

What This Project Entails

We'll assume that you've acquired everything in the first bulleted list in the section above and you're ready to put your robot together. We won't detail every single step when other, more official guides already do, but we'll guide you through the different phases of the project. You can take this at whatever pace you're comfortable with, but we'll break it up into chunks you can tackle across multiple weekends.

Phase One: Construction

What It Entails: At this stage, you're going to assemble your robot arm. It won't do anything yet, but it will look cool. The company behind the kit has detailed instructions here. Your kit should come with a set of various plastic pieces, some screws, and four servos. If you've never used a servo before, it's a small, low-power motor that will power your robot's movement. This kit uses one in the base, two on either side of the arm, and one in the gripper. If you've ever built a piece of IKEA furniture, this shouldn't be too complicated. Just follow the instructions precisely. The robot is more delicate than your coffee table, and over tightening a screw here, or using the wrong piece there can cause you headaches. Fortunately, the instructions above are very detailed and will warn your repeatedly before you can do something that will mess you up, so you're in good hands.

What You'll Learn: Personally, this is my favorite part because you learn something that most project tutorials neglect: how to build the thing. Many projects show you a concept while attached to a breadboard, but never move it to something real. Here, you'll learn how to attach servos to working parts on a finished project. You'll also learn the delicate art of working with tiny moving parts.

Time Required: The construction portion here can be done in just a few hours. However, I advise letting your work sink in for a bit. If you've never worked with robotics before, this is a good time to examine how your bot was put together, how it can move, and start thinking about how you might mount your Arduino later on. The next step can start to get complicated, so don't rush into it. You can manually move the parts of your robot arm gently to play around with it. Don't force it too much, though, as you could damage the servos.

Phase Two: Breadboarding

What It Entails: The next step is to connect one of your servos to your Arduino. You'll accomplish this with the use of a breadboard. A breadboard is a simple tool that allows to prototype electronic circuits before assembling them completely, no soldering required. Adafruit has an excellent tutorial here that will walk you through the steps of connecting your servo directly to the Arduino, as well as adding a potentiometer in later steps, which you can use as a knob to manually control movement.

If that paragraph was a little overwhelming, then this is a good time to back up and learn how breadboarding works. Sparkfun has an excellent guide here that explains how to use a breadboard and what you can do with it. Tutsplus has a great tutorial on how to connect an LED to a power source and add a button. Take time to assemble this and understand the circuit you just assembled. Once you've got a grasp on how electricity flows through a simple circuit, you should be ready to connect one of your robot's servos. From personal experience, this part can seem daunting. Assembling the parts and following instructions is easy, though. Understanding how it all works is the hard part, but it just takes time.

What You'll Learn: Breadboarding is the foundation of most hobbyist electronics prototyping. If you followed all of the guides above, you'll learn how to connect LEDs, buttons, resistors, potentiometers, and servos to either a power source or Arduino. With just those components, you can already make a lot of fun stuff. Once you've got the basics down, it's easier to build on it by learning about different types of components, how they work, and how to integrated them into your projects (more on some ways to do that in the expansion section below).

Time Required: If you're already familiar with breadboarding, connecting the servo should take about five minutes. However, if you've never touched electronics before, give yourself a day or two to read the guides above, fiddle around with various circuits, and get a feel for how they work. I'd even advise taking a week to process the lessons you've learned. Breadboarding circuits is simple, but it can be a difficult concept to grasp. And it's not something you want to rush through, especially given how complicated the next section can get.

Phase Three: Programming

What It Entails: Once you've got everything hooked up, it's time to turn it on. For that, you'll need to have your Arduino IDE setup and plugged into your board. If you want to use CodeBender like I do, you can follow the Getting Started guide here. Alternatively, you can follow Adafruit's guide to the official IDE here.

Once your environment is set up, you'll also start programming the thing. Adafruit's guide has a simple servo sketch you can use to make your robot move. I'd advise using the base servo (the one on the bottom) for this, as it's the only one on your robot that has the full 180 degree motion. You could damage some of the other servos by forcing them to beyond their physical limits if you try this sketch with the other servos. However, once you understand how this sketch works, you can try modifying it to work with the others!

What You'll Learn: This is the phase where it all comes together. You'll learn a bit about how servo movement works, and a lot about how to program an Arduino. If you've never dabbled in programing before, you can drop the sweep sketch into the IDE and it will work, but I'd advise checking out some of our previous guides on how to learn to code. The Arduino language shares a lot of syntax with C/C++ and Java, so if you have any experience with those, you should feel comfortable. You can also check out the Arduino reference library here.

Time Required: Even if you have some programming experience, I'd advise taking another weekend to learn how to set up the Arduino IDE. Learning to code is a lifetime skill, so don't be afraid to work on this phase for a few weeks. You can build on this with the knob sketch Adafruit provided, which will allow you to manually control your robot. Don't be afraid to mess up. You can also experiment with some basic logic structures at this phase.

Congratulations! You Just Made a Robot

If you made it through all of that, then you just learned a bunch of skills in one, long project. When I first put together this robot, I found it was surprisingly simple, despite being an introduction to a lot of complex topics. Once you make it to the end, though, most electronics projects-like the kind we regularly feature -don't look so scary anymore.

From here, you can start expanding on what you have. If you feel like you just barely got through this, try simple additions like adding an LED to indicate when the motor is turning, or a button to turn the movement on and off. Play around with the software a bit and see how it responds. If you screw up some software and overturn a servo, you can order super cheap replacements online.

Build On Your Knowledge with These Expansion Projects

You've built a robot. Now what? Well, assuming it hasn't turned sentient and tried to kill humanity, there are a number of projects you can pursue that can build on your existing project one piece at a time. We won't go over every detail, but we'll give you some links to get you started:

Control Multiple Servos at Once

For my build, I ordered this microcontroller which can control up to sixteen servos on its own (which, for those counting at home, would add up to four meArm robots...sweet). The kit is not pre-assembled, which means it would require some soldering work. You can get other controllers like this one that are pre-assembled, but many cost more and do less. Personally, I think that a $15 controller is a decent way to practice soldering without risking too much if you ruin it, but if you don't want to take that chance, practice by soldering a couple wires together first. Here are some guides that can walk you through the process:

Add an Infrared Remote Control

Infrared (IR) remote controls are deceptively simple (and can be a handy addition to nearly any Arduino project). All you need is a sensor and a remote. The remote will send codes to your Arduino, which you can then use to trigger commands. In this case, you could program your robot to start moving, stop moving, or to go to a certain pre-programmed position. There's already a bunch of pretty great code out there you can use in your projects. For fun, you an even read the codes in your TV remote, if you want to, say, make your robot come alive any time someone changes the channel. Here are some resources you'll need to get started:

Use a Wii Nunchuk to Control Your Death Machine

Alright, you want to get really crazy? Check out the above video showing a the robot arm-the same model you built!-being controlled by a Wii Nunchuk. It uses this breakout adapter (which you can plug a nunchuk directly into) and provides full joystick control, which means that you can make it move in any direction you want, like a futuristic puppet. If you've reached the point where you're ready to undertake this project using this guide, you're probably back for the dozenth time, so welcome back. This is the most advanced add-on we've included in this article, so don't feel bad if it's a bit over your head. It is, however, really cool. Here are some resources for further reading:

As you can tell, the robot arm project covers a ton of concepts and skills in the Arduino hacking scene. If you can make it through this project without getting overwhelmed or giving up, you can probably tackle most of the Arduino projects we feature on a regular basis. Getting started can seem intimidating, but if you add to your knowledge and experience piece by piece, you can build something pretty awesome.

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Build a Kickass Robot Arm: The Perfect Arduino Project for Beginners

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The Arduino is a cheap, fun way to get into building your own electronics. It can also be daunting to get started. Here, we'll show you how to get a start-to-finish Arduino primer with a killer project: building a sweet robot arm.

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Artist Creates 4D Typography Handcrafted in Paper

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3D letters meshed together to form a series of 4D letters, handcrafted in paper by Lo Siento.

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To start up an independent and open lab it is crucial to get affordable lab equipment. Most of the tools we use are do it your self (DIY) and open source and are built from widely available and recycled parts found in consumer products such as DVD drives, hard disks and pc fans. Building the specific devices further helps to understand the basic principles behind and learn more about the technologies and methods used. The discussions among scientists and engineers in the process of rethinking the devices to make them more accessible are very fruitful and often lead to new and innovative designs.

Support the pursuit and growth of knowledge through open science hardware (GOSH): http://openhardware.science/gosh-manifesto/

See also summary of Hackteria Open Source Hardware

WebCam Microscope

To use a regular usb computer web-cam as a microscope, only a few modifications are needed. Basically flipping the lens upside down does the trick. No extra optics needed. Microscopes open up the world of the small and allow the magnified observation of small life forms, analysis of biological motion and form, as well as audio-visual interpretations for aesthetic presentation. The link to the computer allows easy viewing, taking pictures and and even capturing movies.
Do It Your Self

The current design of the typical hackteria webcam microscope stage grew out of literally hundreds of Do-It-You-Self workshops around the world. While making your very own set-up from cardboard, lego or wood is still the most fun and educative approach, this laser cut kit provides a fast and flexible way to get a stable and very accurate microscope. Unlike many of the commercial microscopes this design is a so called inverted microscope with camera looking up and the sample holder on top. This gives you good access to the sample and makes inspection very intuitive. The base plate with rubber feeds provides a solid stand. The sample table can be adjusted to a big range of webcams. The little wheel with a screw is used for focusing. A white LED or any table top lamp is the light source. Link1 Link2

Download design file.

Hard Drive Centrifuge

A centrifuge is a rotating wheel with very high rotational speed (RPM) and a strong body protecting the people around from the energy of the fast moving parts. Substances are loaded into the vial holders at the edge of the fast spinning wheel and are separate along their different densities. Fast spinning computer hard drives in a solid aluminium housing are perfect for making small DIY centrifuges.
How To
The design is based on conventional 3.5″ desktop hard drive. You usually need a small torx screw driver to open them. The disks are removed and replaced by a laser cut acrylic tube holder. Only small centrifuge tubes (0.5 ml) can be used with this kind of design. Make sure the tube holder fits well on the shaft of the motor and fix it back with the original down holder. The parts for the housing provides a stable stand and allow easy opening of the lid. To drive the motor replace the electronics by a ESC brushless motor driver for RC cars. To control the speed use a so call "Servo Tester" unit that fits well with the motor driver. Link

Download design file
Download wiring schematic

Incubator Controller

An incubator is an isolated storage place that is used for cultivating bacteria. The incubator maintains optimal temperature of the atmosphere inside it. Incubators are essential for a lot of experimental work in cell biology, microbiology and molecular biology. More advanced devices also control the humidity in the chamber.
Where to get it
There are many designs for simple electronic temperature controllers. Some are sold for breeding chicken eggs, some a open designs based on an arudino micro controller. Even just hacking a IKEA thermometer does the trick. The one shown here was designed as part of the project biodesign for the real world. As a heating element use a light bulb or a big electric resistor. The temperature isolated chamber can be made from a styrofoam box or from an old camping fridge.
BioDesign Incubator Design Documentation of project on hackteria.org
Gel Box and High Voltage Supply

The gel electrophoresis box is a basic tool used in bio labs to separate molecules of different sizes. By comparing with a reference DNA sequences of specific length can be identified. Various excellent do it your self instructions are available on the net. And agar is the new media.

A simple and effective design of a circuit that converts low voltages (12DC) to higher voltages suitable to drive a electrophoresis box or an electro wetting device is published unter the name of "Nixie HV Switching PSU" by Nick de Smith. See the following links:
Nixie HV Switching PSU Detailed Instructables on how to build it. Download design file.
Turbidity Meeter Kit

Co-Development of a workshop on DIY laboratory instruments for bioanalytics. Turbidity meeter built from simple DIY electronics combined with an enzymatic assays. With a concept of "teach the teachers", we are looking into DIY lab-tools as means of a pedagogic tool for interdisciplinary thinking at the biomedical/engineering/molecular interface. Coproduced with SATW, Swiss Academy of Technical Sciences, Hackteria and FHNW, School for Lifesciences.
Documentation of Project on hackteria.org
See also TurbiGnUSB an integrated version with microcrontroller.
Download design file.
DIY Microvolume Spectrometer

The NanoDrop products are very popular in scientific labs. The measurement principle of holding a drop between two points - the light source and the sensor - allows to measure samples as small as 0.5µL up to 2µL micro volume without a cuvette. The simple basic principle should be perfect for DIY lab equipment. Possible applications are Turbidity measurement, measure spectral data and purity, potentialy measure nucleic acid, protein and colorimetric assays, microvolume fluorescence measurements.
Documentation of the project on hackteria.org Download design file.
This version of a DIY microvolume spectrophotometersfor is based on a DIY spectrometer using a DVD-R optical diffraction grating and a USB webcam as described by PublicLab. The light source is a white 5mm flat head LED. The device is sensitive in the visible light spectrum. The standard webcam can be connected to a computer by USB to get the image of the spectrum instantly. Use the PublicLabs excellent online software workbench to analyse data.

My Open PCR

Attempt to build an OpenPCR just from the description on the website OpenPCR without a kit or any supplied parts.
https://github.com/GenericLab/WildOpenPCR Documentation on hackteria.org Download design file.
call it free/libre open source There is two aspects to open source hard and software. The one is to build an new product in a community, include different people and skills, combine ideas in the process. To do so developers share files and knowledge openly. And once the product is completed, "consumers" can buy the product like any other product without knowing much about it. Maybe they build it from a kit to get it cheaper and learn a bit about how the product looks inside.
The other openness, some call it free/libre open source, does not distinguish so much between developers and consumers. Everyone should be able to have access to the design, source the parts, build the device, modify it, make derived works, redistribute and use it commercially. To be that open, more information than just source files is needed... with the present rebuild of the OpenPCR I try contribute some to this...

Tube Racks
Download design file.
Not only sophisticated devices are required in technology labs. Simple equipment like this tube holder are also very helpful and often unnecessarily add to the initial investment cost when bought from conventional vendors. Many of these helpers can be manufactured on a laser cutter in FabLab in no time.
- GaudiLabs in a Suitcase

BLUE Transiluminator
Link to Hackuarium Workshop Download design file Download Electronic PCB
Transilluminators are especially useful to see DNA bands on a gel.

DIY Electrospinner
Download design file.
Electrospinning is a method to produce very thin fibers from polymer solutions through an electric field. In this case, the polymer solution is pushed through a syringe needle by a servo motor and accelerated at the electric field. The high electric voltage of about 10 kV is produced by an "Pulse Generator Inverter" from ebay. In a complex process, the polymer solution is spun into very small fibers which ultimately deposit on the counter electrode as a kind of fleece similar to a dens spider net. The process typically produces fibers with diameters of less than 1000 nm, which is why the products are called nanofibers.
Polymer solution used: ABS dissolved with acetone.

DIY Spin Coater

A spin coater is a machine used to apply uniform thin films to flat substrates. An excess amount of a solution is placed on the substrate, which is then rotated at high speed in order to spread the fluid by centrifugal force. This simple spinner is made from pc blower with the blades cut off and put into a acrylic housing to prevent the excess solution to coat all the lab.

BioBox

The GaudiLabs BioBox is a prototype of a universal measurement and control device for use in bio laboratories. The device can read temperature sensors, control motors or pumps, measure frequencies, or analogue voltage and can even be connected to a electronic scale. The device is based on the arduino electronic platform, features a display, a knob and 8 electric ports and can be reprogrammed to many more functionalities. Link

MORE

Some SolidWorks open source files:

DIY Incubator - http://www.gaudi.ch/GaudiLabs/wp-content/uploads/DIYIncubator.zip

DIY Shaker - http://www.gaudi.ch/GaudiLabs/wp-content/uploads/DIYShaker.zip

DIY SlideALyzer - http://www.gaudi.ch/GaudiLabs/wp-content/uploads/DIYSlideAlyzer.zip

Mivo - Micro Volume Absorption Meeter - http://www.gaudi.ch/GaudiLabs/wp-content/uploads/Mivo_MicroVolumeAbsorptionMeeter.zip

Laser Cut Tube Rack - http://www.gaudi.ch/GaudiLabs/wp-content/uploads/TubeRack8.zip

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To start up an independent and open lab it is crucial to get affordable lab equipment. Most of the tools we use are do it your self (DIY) and open source and are built from widely available and recycled parts found in consumer products such as DVD drives, hard disks and pc fans.

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In this tutorial, I'll show you how to build a great sounding audio amplifier with the LM386 Low Voltage Audio Power Amplifier. I built about a dozen different audio amplifier circuits with the LM386 but most of them had way too much noise, popping, and other interference. Finally I found one that sounds great, so I'm going to show you how to build it.

It's not a "minimal components" audio amplifier. I added a bunch of extra capacitors to reduce the noise, and I added a bass boost control as well to make it sound even better. But before we start building, it might be helpful to get a little background information first...

BONUS: Download my parts list for the LM386 amplifier with bass boost circuit to see which components to use for good sound quality.

LM386 Basics

The LM386 is quite a versatile chip. Only a couple resistors and capacitors are needed to make a working audio amplifier. The chip has options for gain control and bass boost, and it can also be turned into an oscillator capable of outputting sine waves or square waves.

There are three varieties of the LM386, each with different output power ratings:

LM386N-1: 0.325 Watts

LM386N-3: 0.700 Watts

LM386N-4: 1.00 Watts

The actual output power you get will depend on your supply voltage and speaker impedance. The datasheet has graphs that will tell you. I used a 9V battery for the power supply and it works great, but you can go down to 4V or up to 12V.

The pinout is shown in the diagram below:

Download the datasheet for more information about the output power, distortion characteristics, and minimum/maximum ratings:

LM386 Datasheet

The LM386 is a type of operational amplifier (Op-Amp). Operational amplifiers have a basic task. They take an input potential (voltage) and produce an output potential that's tens, hundreds, or thousands of times the magnitude of the input potential. In an amplifier circuit, the LM386 takes an audio input signal and increases its potential anywhere from 20 to 200 times. That amplification is what's known as the voltage gain.

Gain vs Volume

After you build this amp and play with the volume and gain controls, you'll notice that both appear to raise or lower the intensity of sound coming out of the speaker. So what's the difference then? Gain is the amplification of the input potential and is a characteristic of the amplifier. Volume lets you adjust the sound level within the range of amplification set by the gain. Gain sets the range of possible volume levels. For example, if your gain is set to 20, the range of volume is 0 to 20. If your gain is set to 200, the range of volume is 0 to 200.

Gain control can be achieved by connecting a 10 μF capacitor between pins 1 and 8 . Without a capacitor between pins 1 and 8, the gain will be set to 20. With the 10 μF capacitor, the gain will be set to 200. The gain can be changed to any value between 20 and 200 by placing a resistor (or potentiometer) in series with the capacitor.

A Minimal LM386 Audio Amplifier

Now that we have a little background information on the LM386, let's start by building a bare bones LM386 amplifier with the minimum amount of components needed to make it work. That way you can compare it to the better sounding one we'll build later on.

Here's the schematic:

Here's how to wire it if you're using a breadboard:

In the wiring diagram above, the audio input ground flows through the same path as the audio output ground. The output ground is "noisy" and will cause distortion in the input signal if it's wired this way. The audio input ground is sensitive to any interference and any noise picked up will get amplified through the amplifier.

Make it a goal to keep the input ground separate from other ground paths as much as possible. For example, you can connect the grounds for the power supply, input, and output directly to the ground pin (pin 4) of the LM386 like this:

This will reduce the distance the input ground flows through the output ground. Connecting it like this should sound better than the first circuit, but you"ll probably still notice some noise, static and popping. We'll fix that in the next circuit by adding decoupling capacitors and a couple RC filters.

A Great Sounding LM386 Audio Amplifier

Now that you've seen the bare minimum of what it takes to make an audio amplifier with the LM386, lets build a higher fidelity version with an adjustable gain control.

Note: Most of the component values in this circuit aren't critical. If you don't have a particular value, try substituting something close and it will probably work.

Here's the schematic:

Several things in this circuit make it sound better:

1. A 470 pF capacitor between the positive input signal and ground, which filters radio interference picked up by the audio input wires.

2. 100 μF and 0.1 μF capacitors between the positive and negative power rails to decouple the power supply. The 100 μF capacitor will filter low frequency noise while the 0.1 μF capacitor will filter high frequency noise.

3. A 0.1 μF capacitor between pins 4 and 6, for additional decoupling of the power supply to the chip.

4. A 10K Ohm resistor and a 10 μF capacitor in series between pin 7 and ground to decouple the audio input signal.

This diagram will show you how to connect everything if you're using a breadboard:

One thing to keep in mind when you're wiring any audio amplifier is that the cleanest sound will result from keeping all wire connections and components as close to the chip as possible. Keeping the wires as short as possible will also help.

The LM386 Audio Amplifier with Bass Boost

A cool feature of the LM386 is the option to add an adjustable bass boost to the amplifier. You'll probably find that this is the best sounding circuit. The bass boost is basically just a low pass filter, and it removes most of the noise not taken out by the decoupling capacitors. All you need for the bass boost circuit is a 0.033 μF capacitor and a 10K Ohm potentiometer in series between pins 1 and 5:

Here's the wiring diagram:

An easy way to connect the audio input in these circuits is by cutting the 3.5 mm audio jack from an old set of headphones and wiring it to breadboard pins. Check out this article, How to Hack a Headphone Jack to see how to do this with some common types of headphones.

Here's the video version of this tutorial if you want to watch me build the amps and listen to them:

Thanks for reading! Hope you had fun experimenting with these amps as much as I did. If you're ready to build some even better sounding and more powerful amps, we have tutorials on a few others:

The LM3886 is by far the best sounding amplifier, but it's a fairly involved project. If you're just starting to build audio amplifiers, I'd recommend working your way up to it by starting with the TDA2003, then moving up to the TDA2050.

Be sure to subscribe to keep updated on our posts as soon as they are published. And feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or need help with anything in this article.

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Build a Great Sounding Audio Amplifier (with Bass Boost) from the LM386

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In this tutorial, I'll show you how to build a great sounding audio amplifier with the LM386 Low Voltage Audio Power Amplifier. I built about a dozen different audio amplifier circuits with the LM386 but most of them had way too much noise, popping, and other interference.

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Build a amp circuit from scratch, then design a speaker housing.
http://www.circuitbasics.com/build-a-great-sounding-audio-amplifier-with-bass-boost-from-the-lm386/

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Make a mini robot that comes where the parts come from the sides of the box. Perhaps postcard size?

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Design Fab Pop-out Postcard for 1/16, then scale up to 1/8, 1/4, 3/4

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Growing food with a living ecosystem in a classroom creates ownership and responsibility as it educates. Aquaponics is a teaching tool for Science, Technology, Engineering, Art and Mathematics (STEAM)

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Growing food with a living ecosystem in a classroom creates ownership and responsibility as it educates. Aquaponics is a teaching tool for Science, Technology, Engineering, Art and Mathematics (STEAM)

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http://www.yankodesign.com/2012/08/06/sea-inspired-seating/

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Description

Four interlocking gear wheels in a display case. Art and engineering in perfect harmony.
This project is also on Instructables
The parts of this project are cut out from three millimetre plywood using a laser cutter. In this case, an HPCLaser 3050.
The plans for making this project are available for everybody to download for free. As well as the plywood you will also need a piece of dark coloured paper as a background and a sheet of one millimetre thick clear acrylic for the front of the box. One final addition, you will need three pieces of six millimetre wooden dowel. Two of them twenty four millimetres long and one eighteen millimetres long.

The parts file is divided into two pages. The file is a pdf. As different laser cutters use different file formats I leave it to you to convert it to a format suitable for your machine.

The HPCLaser in action cutting out the parts.

All the parts apart for the dowel pieces cut out and ready to go. The blue piece is the clear acrylic front with its protective film still attached. Having cut out all the parts follow the instructions below to assemble the gear display.

Glue together the two eighteen teeth gears. Make sure that they are aligned precisely.

Glue the outer ring to the thirty eight tooth gear as well as the centre hub. Again, make sure you are as accurate as possible with your alignment.

Glue the eighteen toothed gear to the hub. Use a spare piece of dowel to make sure the holes are lined up accurately.

Assemble the twenty two toothed gear as shown using the pentagon hub.

The thirty toothed gear has no hub. Carefully glue the secondary gear ring in place making sure that the teeth are accurately lined up.

Glue together the three base pieces and fit the two longer dowels into place tapping them home with a hammer if necessary. They should be a tight fit and should not be free to turn.

Fit the various spacers into place as shown in the picture.

Glue the eighteen millimetre long dowel into the knurled gear as shown. Make sure that it is sitting accurately square as the glue dries.

Glue the dark backing paper into place. This paper provides contrast with the gears making them stand out visually.

Fit the knurled wheel through the remaining hole in the base plate. It should turn easily in the hole. Fit the small gear into place on the dowel so that it just touches the spacer on the base. It should turn easily via the knurled wheel.

Drop the largest gear onto the dowel. Check that it turns freely via the knurled wheel.

Drop the final gear onto the remaining dowel. Fit the remaining ring over it so that it holds the gear down but still allows it to turn.

Fit together the five main pieces of the frame. Use glue if you need too.

Drop the acrylic front into place inside the box. Glue the two stops into place to hold the acrylic in position.

The finished front cover.

Fit the cover over the gear to complete the project.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Four interlocking gear wheels in a display case. Art and engineering in perfect harmony. This project is also on Instructables The parts of this project are cut out from three millimetre plywood using a laser cutter. In this case, an HPCLaser 3050. The plans for making this project are available for everybody to download for free.

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https://padlet.com/nick_digiorgio/iyqv7c6lx9as

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If you want to make a Icosahedron Mads Hobye has made an easy template for you to laser cut. Download it here. You should cut the outer line all the way through and the inner lines should be cut half way through. This enables you to bend it easily.

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lasercut toy Dimensions after assembly:180mmx120mmx50mm Number of items: 22 Material thickness: 2mm

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Kotobukiya 106837 KK003 Yotsuba&! Kanzen Henkei Danbo Danboard Non Scale Figure

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Plaza Japan is the leading online retailer of authentic Japanese anime action figures, plastic scale model kits, toys, puzzles, and more. From Pokemon and Nintendo to Aoshima and Fujimi, we have the Japanese model kits and toys you're looking for! Shop today!

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Polyhedra addiction - Blogs - Fabfolk Forums

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In ShopBot's home state of North Carolina, FabLabs Carolinas are hoping to generate funding for FabLab installations across North Carolina. They believe FabLabs will give a wide range of people "the ability to conceptualize, design, develop, fabricate and test almost anything they can create.

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Product size (L x W x H): 8.60 x 5.30 x 3.00 cm / 3.39 x 2.09 x 1.18 inches
Package size (L x W x H): 10.00 x 10.00 x 2.00 cm / 3.94 x 3.94 x 0.79 inches
Package Contents: 1 x Ultra-slim Light Bulb card (with 1 x CR1220 Button Battery)

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A

Dear The,

Thank you for your inquiry.

Sorry, color is randomly for this item.

Please feel free to ask further pre-sales questions.

A

Hi Cam,

Thank you for your inquiry.

Powered by a small replaceable 3V battery.

A

Dear The,

Thank you for your inquiry.

Sorry, color is randomly for this item.

Please feel free to ask further pre-sales questions.

A

Hi Cam,

Thank you for your inquiry.

Powered by a small replaceable 3V battery.

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Pros:
Queste piccole lampadine a Led sono veramente carine e facili da utilizzare. Le dimensioni ridotte consentono di portarle sempre con se per utilizzarle in caso di necessità.
Acquisto consigliato

Cons:
Nulla

May 05,2017

Pros:
Extrem flach
Verarbeitung Ok für den Preis
Leuchtet schön

Cons:
Keine

Mar 26,2017

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16.43

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Ultra - slim Fold - up Wallet / Purse LED Card Light Creative Lamp Pocket Bulb Design -$0.72 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

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Save big on our app! Ship to / USD Country Website Language Support Center * One stop service: solve all your problems * Orders Tracking and shipped out notification * More campaigns More discounts * Need help before making an order? * Chat with us in real-time.

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https://padlet.com/nick_digiorgio/FABTHIS

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A multi-functional modern lamp that unfolds from a book.

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Living Blues Magazine, Dan Klarskov & The Honeydrippers, Blues, Jump, Swing. The Blues is a feeling all over the world!

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Pentomino mind bending game | 3D Print Model

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Model available for download in .fbx .ma .mb .stl .3ds .obj formats. Visit CGTrader and browse more than 500K 3D models, including 3D print and real-time assets

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Penaominoes with the shape of animals that spell ZOO

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Penaominoes with the shape of animals that spell ZOO

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By George Hart for the Museum of Mathematics

It is an amazing fact that it's mathematically possible to pass a cube through a hole in another cube of the same size. If you stand a cube up on a corner (with a diagonal vertical) and shine a light down on it, its shadow is a regular hexagon. If you calculate carefully, you'll find that a square face of the cube can fit inside this hexagon with a bit of room to spare on all sides. This means that it is possible to drill a square hole through the cube in the direction of a diagonal and the outside parts will barely connect together. Martin Raynsford has made a template for a paper model that illustrates this idea. Here is the paper cube with a square hole:

You'll need to assemble it carefully. If you look at it from the side, you see there isn't much material to hold itself together:

The image below shows one cube passing through the other.

Full disclosure requires me to point out the inner cube here is actually 2% smaller than the outer cube. Martin made it this way because otherwise he found that the thin bits of remaining paper tear. But rest assured that with mathematically ideal cubes and paper, not only could the two cubes be the same size, but you can actually pass a cube through a hole in a slightly smaller cube!

More:
See all of George Hart's Math Monday columns

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Math Monday: Passing a Cube Through Another Cube | Make:

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It is an amazing fact that it's mathematically possible to pass a cube through a hole in another cube of the same size. If you stand a cube up on a corner (with a diagonal vertical) and shine a light down on it, its shadow is a regular hexagon.

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Kawada NBM-004 nanoblock Empire State Building

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Plaza Japan is the leading online retailer of authentic Japanese anime action figures, plastic scale model kits, toys, puzzles, and more. From Pokemon and Nintendo to Aoshima and Fujimi, we have the Japanese model kits and toys you're looking for! Shop today!

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http://fabmaker.hobye.dk/equalizer-lamp/

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This is a collection of toturials with solutions people often ask us to help them with.

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This is a collection of toturials with solutions people often ask us to help them with.

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http://fabmaker.hobye.dk/

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https://plus.google.com/109751563256367375374

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Wargame-model-mods - Maze of the dead - Mechanical constructs

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Site featuring my collection of Warhammer limited edition models as I collect make and paint them. Helpful for collector looking to find Ltd Ed models

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If you've been around my site for a while, this may look familiar. That's because I've written blog posts, here and here, about this exact build. If you look at those, you'll get a MUCH more in depth look at the process that I went through to make the original version of this Pi arcade.

I'm not one to repost content, but since I'm starting to move toward building the full size arcade cabinet, I thought it'd be good to make a video of this portion of the project, so that my newer audience members have the context.

While making this video, I actually found that the software that I use, RetroPie, has been updated and SIGNIFICANTLY improved! It's fantastic !! Kudos to those guys for making a really stellar package that is free for anyone to use!!! Since I made my original version, the controller board, IPAC2, has also been updated. The newer version has some new options, and looks pretty great, although I have no real reason to replace mine.

Obviously, this one isn't much to look at. It's just a prototype to explain how the controls go together and will be put into a much better package (and wired in a nicer way) in the final arcade cabinet.

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How to make a Raspberry Pi arcade (with NO programming) - I Like to Make Stuff

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If you've been around my site for a while, this may look familiar. That's because I've written blog posts, here and here, about this exact build. If you look at those, you'll get a MUCH more in depth look at the process that I went through to make the original version of this Pi arcade.

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SunWind Solar Car Kits and Solar Energy Education

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OUR SOLAR ENERGY KITS SunnySide Up Classroom 10-Pack DETAILS SolRun Classroom 15-Pack DETAILS SunnySide Up DETAILS SolGear DETAILS SolarDrive Solar Car & Inventor's Kit DETAILS

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http://lisamoses.com/site/project/csu-library

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Make a set of Piano staris for the school using a makey make.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mHj853z_PU

http://tde385robotics.wikispaces.com/Makey+Makey+Piano+Stairs

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Make a cardboard version of this to hold 3 eye glasses with a name or logo etched on it.

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Use this space to explore other things you can make in the Fab Lab.