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1. Search for medicinal plants found in Texas

2. Find those plants in the woods next time we go out

3. Search how to cook/make the medicine outside

4. Gather materials to make the medicine

5. Make it if there is still time outside

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Leaves, small sticks, ferns, grass, and pine needles would make good insulation for your shelter. Try spreading them across the gaps of your shelter. Now, place some mud to harden and insulate the inside better.

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There may come a time when you need to bug out of the city and leave your home behind. In this case, you may need to build a survival shelter or a bushcraft shelter to keep yourself warm or stay dry in rainy weather. For that reason, using bushcraft knowledge to create primitive survival shelter ideas is a skill set every practical prepper should possess.

Keep reading to learn about the importance of survival shelters and bushcraft shelters, and for a long and detailed list of some of the most effective survival shelter ideas.

The Importance of a Survival Shelter and Bushcraft Shelter

According to the survival rule of three, you can only survive for three hours when exposed to extreme heat or cold. On the other hand, you can survive for three days without water and three weeks without food.

For that reason, in a survival scenario, or after sh*t hits the fan (SHTF), having an adequate shelter should be your top priority, even before finding food and water.

Survival shelters are absolutely vital. They have many functions that will keep you happier, healthier, and most importantly, safer.

During heatwaves and sunny conditions, survival shelters offer shade and protect you from dangerous UV rays.

Survival shelters insulate you from wind chill and cold temperatures so you can avoid frostbite, hypothermia, and other cold-related illnesses or injuries.

Survival shelters can keep you dry during relentless rains.

Lastly, survival shelters act as a protective barrier between you and insects or wild animals.

If you are in a survival situation and need to build a shelter in the woods or a bushcraft shelter, then it's essential to consider the following six recommendations.

Considerations for Constructing a Survival Shelter or Bushcraft Shelter

Before constructing your primitive survival shelter, it will be crucial to consider the following six items. Crafting your structure with these tips in mind will help keep you safer and more comfortable.

1. Location of Your Bushcraft Shelter or Survival Shelter Location is one of the most important things to consider when building a primitive shelter or pitching a tent.

2. Size of Your Survival Shelter or Bushcraft Shelter One of the most common mistakes in constructing survival shelters or bushcraft shelters is making them too large.

3. Structure for Your Bushcraft Shelter or Survival Shelter There are many different types of survival structures, each with pros and cons.

4. Insulation of Your Survival Shelter or Bushcraft Shelter Having a sturdy framework is one thing. But even a substantial shelter won't do much good unless properly insulated.

5. Heat Source for Your Bushcraft Shelter or Survival Shelter

In the process of learning how to build a shelter in the woods or a bushcraft shelter, one thing to keep in mind is to always keep it simple. Use the resources that nature provides you with. For instance, natural formations like caves or overhangs can be utilized as shelter spaces with minor enhancements.

Remember, the overall objective of a survival shelter is to provide protection from elements and threats, maintain body temperature, and enable rest and recovery. Whether you're constructing a lean-to, a tarp tent, or a bushcraft shelter, always keep these objectives in mind. And remember, practice makes perfect. It's a good idea to practice building different types of shelters before you actually need to use one in a survival situation.

Location of Your Bushcraft Shelter

Location is one of the most important things to consider when building a primitive shelter or pitching a tent. First of all, the site you choose should be as flat as possible. A shelter on the flat ground makes everything easier and more comfortable.

Your survival shelter should also be constructed in an area where you can access ample building materials, such as leaves, grass, tree branches, and stones. The less you have to walk, the better.

Lastly, a survival shelter should be located in a safe area. For example, you want to avoid constructing your shelter in flood plains, along river banks, near insect nests, underneath unstable trees, and away from dangerous people or places.

But don't forget to accommodate for your other needs. Survival shelter near, but not right next to water is ideal. Once you know how to make a water filter in the wild, you'll be ready to turn that into drinking water, without worrying about it washing away your shelter. You can even try survival desalination if you're near an ocean!

When it comes to building survival shelters or bushcraft shelters, timing is also crucial. It's important to start building your shelter before dusk to ensure that you have ample time to finish the construction and also gather firewood. In an emergency survival scenario, you won't have the luxury of time on your side. So, learning to quickly identify suitable locations and efficiently utilize available resources is key to your survival.

Size of Your Long Term Survival Shelter

One of the most common mistakes in constructing survival shelters is making them too big. A shelter that is too large takes more time to build, requires more building materials, and ends up being colder than smaller shelters.

Ideally, your shelter will be just large enough to accommodate whoever belongs to your survival group. Smaller shelters conserve more body heat and keep you safer, but you may also need room for your family survival kit.

Structure for Your Shelter

There are many different types of survival structures, each with pros and cons. The survival structure you build should make sense for your environment and be constructed with safety in mind.

If you are working with tree branches to build your structure, a good rule is to use larger branches to construct the initial framework. These branches should be big and strong enough to support the weight of an adult.

Insulation

Having a sturdy framework is one thing. But even a substantial shelter won't do much good unless properly insulated. Insulation and adequate coverage are crucial for a safe survival shelter, whether in hot and sunny or wet and cold conditions.

Leaves, small sticks, ferns, tree branches, grass, and pine needles are all examples of natural debris that can be used to insulate your shelter and provide cover. Insulating the roof and walls of your shelter is important, but don't forget to insulate the floor and your sleeping area as well.

Heat Source for Your Primitive Shelter

In a survival scenario with cold weather, staying warm is vital. Typically, your survival shelter will help with this (assuming it's not too large). But you may also need to incorporate another heat source like a gas stove or fire to stay warm, melt snow, boil water, or cook food.

With smaller shelters, fire is typically built on the outside. If you don't have matches, it's essential to know how to start a fire without matches.

However, in larger shelters, a small fire can also be built on the inside. However, if you plan to keep a fire or cook on a stove in your shelter, you must do so with immense caution. The last thing you want is to burn down your survival shelter.

Food & Water Storage Near Your Survival Shelter

Lastly, it is important to consider how you store your food and water. Typically, survival shelters are just big enough to accommodate the people that need a safe and warm shelter. But it's also essential to have a space for survival food storage and water storage.

5 Servings Per Pouch Whether you're looking to quickly add to your current emergency food storage, prepare for a weekend adventure, or just sample some of our best-selling entrees, the Valley Food Storage 5 Entree Pack will supply you with great-tasting and nutritious long-term food that will fuel you with...

And if there is no room inside, it's crucial to create a safe place to store your food and water on the exterior so that insects and animals cannot spoil the food. Without meeting your minimum calories to survive, you'll have a hard time keeping up with all the work survival takes!

Survival Shelter Ideas: Types of Survival Shelters and Bushcraft Techniques

There are all kinds of different bushcraft shelter ideas. Building the appropriate primitive shelter will depend on the tools and materials you have with you, the natural environment around you, the number of people in your group, and the local climate.

Bushcraft Shelters and Survival Techniques

Bushcraft is the knowledge and skill of surviving and thriving in a natural environment. One of the most critical bushcraft survival skills is building primitive shelters. Knowing how to construct various primitive survival shelters is vital so you can be prepared in any situation.

Wickiup: A Classic Survival Shelter

A wickiup (also known as wigwam) is a small tipi-shaped shelter. However, instead of using animal hides as insulation, a wickiup uses natural brush and vegetation to insulate the interior space of the shelter. Wickiup shelters have been used by primitive cultures all over the globe, but they're most common in the American Southwest.

If you are constructing a wickiup in a rainy climate, steeper walls and thicker brush will help to make the structure leak-proof. On the other hand, if your environment is hotter and drier, you will want to construct a broader wickiup that stays lower to the ground.

Building a Debris Hut Survival Shelter

A debris hut is a wedge-shaped lean-to structure that is covered in natural debris like dead leaves for insulation. Debris huts make great individual sleeping shelters, but are typically too small for multiple people.

To build a debris hut, start by propping up a 9- to 12-foot long pole in the fork of a tree, large boulder, or stump. Then, cover the sides of the pole with smaller tree branches to create two walls. Lastly, load up the two walls of your debris hut with vegetation such as grass, leaves, pine needles, pine boughs, brush, ferns, or moss. For ideal insulation, we recommend you use two or three feet of vegetation on all sides. Then you can line the floor of your hut with vegetation for your bedding.

Lean-To: A Time-Tested Bushcraft Shelter

The lean-to is one of the oldest and most reliable primitive shelters. Lean-to shelters are fantastic because they have a simple design and thus can be quickly constructed. However, it's important to note that lean-to structures have a few obvious downsides.

The first is that they're pretty open to the elements and wild animals. And two is that they don't hold heat well. Therefore, lean-to survival shelters may not be the best choice for long-term shelter. Nevertheless, they are an excellent addition to any survival encampment.

Ramada Shelter: A Survival Shelter for Sun Protection

Ramada shelters excel at providing shade. Therefore, ramada shelters are ideal for sunny and hot environments. Depending on the material you use for the roof, ramada shelters may not be leak-proof. However, they will block out the sun.

Ramada shelters are ideal for covering the kitchen area of your encampment, or for sheltering your equipment, food, and water storage. Ramada shelters can be built with removable walls to encourage more airflow or to block the cold wind.

Bough Bed

Technically speaking, a bough bed is not a survival shelter itself. However, it makes an excellent addition to most types of primitive shelters. To create a bough bed, start by creating a bed frame with two logs side by side about three feet apart. Ideally, these logs will be longer than you are tall. Then, fill in the bed frame with boughs, dried leaves, dead grass, and other insulating material. The ideal bough bed will create a six-inch layer of insulation between you and the ground.

Quinzhee Shelter

A quinzhee is a dome-shaped snow shelter that makes a great cold weather survival shelter. They have a similar shape to an igloo but are easier to construct. In addition, quinzhee shelters can be built with almost any type of snowpack. On the other hand, igloos require a particular type of snow to be successful.

To make a quinzhee shelter, start by making a pile of movable material and cover it with a tarp. For this step, using your bug-out backpacks is often the easiest. Once you have a pile of gear, cover the entire thing with snow until there are about two feet of snow on all sides. Then, insert long and slender sticks around the newly formed dome. Next, excavate the snow inside the quinzhee until you reach the base of each stick. Lastly, make a fist-sized hole for ventilation in the roof of your quinzhee.

Round Lodge

A round lodge shelter is a hybrid between a wickiup and tipi. Round lodges are structured like a tipi and insulated like a wickiup. The main difference is that they have a solid door. As a result, round lodges are great at blocking wind, rain, cold, and sun.

Round lodges are larger structures. Therefore, they can sometimes accommodate a small fire on the inside. If you plan to have a fire, keep it small, and make sure your wickiup has a space in the top to function as a chimney.

Tarp Shelters: The Ultimate Survival Shelter Ideas for Your Bug Out Bag

One of the essential items we recommend individuals include in their bug out bag checklist, along with a 72-hour emergency kit, is a tarp. Tarps are highly versatile tools that can be used in various scenarios. They especially excel in creating improvised survival tarp shelters.

Wedge Tarp

The wedge tarp design is an ideal tarp survival shelter for windy conditions, especially if the winds are consistently coming from a particular direction. When appropriately secured, the wedge tarp should be able to keep out even the worst wind and rain.

To create a wedge tarp survival shelter, start by staking down two corners into the wind. Then rig up the paracord to the center of the tarp on the opposite side. Then tie down the remaining two corners of the tarp. Afterward, you can experiment with how high or low you secure the paracord for the opening of the wedge.

Tarp Wing

The tarp wing configuration is an excellent shelter for covering a larger area. In addition, Tarp wing shelters excel at protecting fires from rain and keeping the cooking area dry. To rig up a tarp wing, simply secure two ends of the tarp at higher locations. The other two ends of the tarp will be secured down lower.

One drawback of the tarp wing is that it will billow like a sail in windy conditions. So for windier conditions, we recommend the wedge tarp design. However, the tarp wing is an excellent choice if you just need to block out the sun or rain.

Tarp Burrito

The tarp burrito is one of the simplest tarp primitive shelters you can create. It has zero frills but will efficiently insulate you from bad weather and keep you much warmer. Essentially the tarp is the tortilla, and you, along with your sleeping bags, are the ingredients to the burrito.

Simply lay the tarp down in a flat sleeping spot. Next, fold one side of the tarp over about ⅓ of the way. Repeat this fold going in the same direction. Then tuck one end of the tarp under itself to close the bottom. Then, slide your sleeping bag into the open end. If done correctly, the seam of the tarp will be beneath you, and the shelter will remain pinned down by your body weight.

A-Frame Tarp Shelter

The A-frame shelter is the epitome of simple and effective tarp shelters. The A-frame tarp shelter provides excellent coverage against wind and rain. In addition, a higher A-frame promotes more airflow. But for even more coverage, you can construct the A-frame closer to the ground.

To make an A-frame, simply suspend a paracord line between two trees. Then, lay your tarp over the line and secure it in all four corners. The A-frame shelter is an excellent addition to a hammock or bough bed.

Desert Tarp

A double-roofed desert shelter dates back centuries to cultures living in Northern Africa and the Middle East. To create this improvised survival shelter, you will need two tarps, but you can also fold over a single tarp if you only have one.

The tarps must be firmly anchored in all four corners by stakes, rocks, logs, or any other strong object. If you use two tarps, layer them so that a foot of airspace divides them. If you use one tarp, fold it in half and create the dual-layer roof.

Tarp Hammock

When the ground is particularly wet, muddy, flooded, or infested with insects, it's important to create a shelter that gets you up off the ground. With a paracord and a tarp, you can easily create a tarp hammock that gives you a sleeping space that insulates you from the unlivable conditions on the ground.

Nature's Survival Shelters: Making the Most of Your Environment

Not all shelters need to be brought with you or constructed ahead of time. Sometimes, nature provides shelter for you, and it's up to you to make it work in a survival situation.

Rock Shelter

A rock shelter, also known as a rockhouse, crepuscular cave, or bluff shelter, is a shelter that utilizes the cave-like opening at the base of a cliff, bluff, or large boulder as a shelter. Rock shelters are formed by water and wind erosion, which destroys weaker rock layers. What's left are cavities of stronger rock that you can creatively utilize as shelter.

Hollow Shelter

A tree hollow, also known as a tree hole, is a semi-enclosed cavity that forms naturally in the trunk or branches of the tree. You can find tree hollows in old trees that have undergone some sort of physiological distress from natural causes such as fire, wind, lightning, rain, or attack from insects, bacteria, or fungi.

Trees with hollows may be living or not. Typically tree hollows are utilized as a shelter for wildlife species. However, if the tree hollow is large enough, it is not uncommon for them to be utilized as shelter or storage in survival situations.

Tree Root Shelter

Like hollow tree shelters, tree root shelters are primitive shelters that utilize the spaces beneath the tree, between the tree's roots. Tree root shelters are most common in old-growth forests where the trees have grown to be very large.

Root shelters are made possible by excavating around the largest, most prominent roots to create a cavity that can be used as a survival shelter. Tree root shelters can utilize the roots of fallen trees as shelter. Tree root shelters are not very large and are not typically used for long portions of time. However, they can be helpful in dire situations.

The Value of Versatility in Bushcraft Shelters

While specific environments might demand a certain type of survival shelter, one of the key skills in bushcraft is versatility. The ability to adapt to changing conditions and resources is what sets apart a true survivalist. This includes the knowledge to build different types of bushcraft shelters according to the environment, weather, and available resources.

Staying Dry and Safe: Selecting Your Bushcraft Shelter Site

Choosing the right site for your bushcraft shelter is a critical survival skill. It's important to select a location that's safe from hazards such as falling branches, flash floods, and high winds. The site should ideally be on flat, well-drained ground, and should offer some protection from the elements. For example, building your shelter near a dense stand of trees can provide windbreak, while a nearby body of water can be a useful source of drinking water, provided it's clean and safe.

When Nature Provides: Exploiting Natural Features for Bushcraft Shelters

In addition to tree hollows and rock shelters, other natural features can also provide ready-made bushcraft shelters. For example, overhangs, natural depressions in the ground, and thick brush can all serve as shelter in a pinch. If you come across a fallen tree with a space underneath it, you can use the trunk as a roof for your shelter and build walls using branches and vegetation. In a survival situation, being able to see the potential in your surroundings is a valuable skill.

Survival Shelter Wisdom: Final Thoughts on Short Term & Long Term Bushcraft Shelters

In a survival scenario, shelter should be your number one priority. Improvised and well-built survival shelters insulate us from cold weather, provide shade during hot and sunny weather, keep us dry, and create a barrier between wild animals or insects, and you.

Knowing how to build a survival shelter in various environments with limited material and tools could be the difference between suffering in the cold or being warm and toasty.

For more survival information, visit our Practical Prepper Blog. Or, to speak with an expert about our wide selection of delicious emergency food, including dairy-free survival food, visit our webpage. We are happy to help!

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Survival Shelters | How to Build Long Term Survival Shelters - Valley Food Storage

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If SHTF, a survival shelter may be the only thing left keeping you warm and dry or shaded from extreme heat. Using bushcraft skills to create primitive shelters is a skill every prepper should possess.

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there will be alot of people that will probably try to escape jail. thats why we need people on close alert so they serve there punishment for the crime. we will be the right hand man to the judge so we will dom anything the court says

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first we need to go around the crash site and keep a good eye out on how people are acting and how people are thriving through there needs. if we suspect that there is suspiceous activity going on we will address it and take it to the court. Finally the court will decide on the sentence or not.

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mix soil and water into mud add sand then straw or pine needles make it into the shape you want and let it dry.

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Mud is among the most popular building materials in many countries where Heifer works. It makes sense. Mud is plentiful and literally dirt cheap, and so is the sunshine used to dry mud bricks until they're solid enough for construction. The only costs are in labor and time. It's a relatively straightforward process that's been employed with many variations since around 7000 B.C.

But let's not relegate mud walls to rustic single-room houses with thatched roofs. In fact, mud brick structures range from primitive to Pinterest-worthy. Among the largest buildings made entirely of mud is The Great Mosque of Djenné in central Mali, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The walls are made of sun-baked earthen bricks cemented together with a mortar of sand and mud, then plastered with more mud.

Hippies and homesteaders are DIY-ing cob dwellings made from a mix of soil, clay and straw that's kneaded together, often by bare feet, and then clumped and smoothed into walls. Despite the name, no corn cobs are involved in the building process. Also known as cobb or clom, the name comes from an Old English term that refers to the way clumps of mud are layered on top of each other to form the thick walls. Cob buildings have real staying power. Cob homes more than 500 years old are still standing and being lived in in the United Kingdom. And new ones are going up thanks to books, workshops and online how-to courses from experts at This Cob House and the Cob Cottage Company.

If you're looking for further proof that dirt doesn't necessarily connote poverty, look to Washington state. Did you know that Bill Gates's 66,000-square-foot home in Medina is partially earth-sheltered, meaning that many of the living areas are tucked into the ground and wrapped with earthen walls to take advantage of natural temperature regulation? Utility bills tend to be lower in earth-sheltered structures, and the unique construction provides added privacy.

The chicest mud houses can be found in Australia. Proponents say earthen homes are cooler in summer months, and termite-proof. They're also inexpensive if you make the bricks yourself. The government of Australia is on board and offers lots of how-tos on a website devoted to sustainability.

Interested in giving it a try? Here's a recipe for mud bricks. But remember, brick making is more of an art than a science, and you'll likely take a few tries to perfect your own signature recipe.

Ingredients

Dirt (the sturdiest bricks come from dirt with a clay content of 25 to 50 percent)
Sand
Straw, grass or pine needles
Water
Sunlight
A mold to shape the bricks

Mix soil and water into a thick mud. Add some sand, then mix in the straw, grass or pine needles. Pour the mixture into your molds. Bake bricks in sunshine for five days or so. If cracks appear, cover the bricks so they're not in direct sunlight. Remove the bricks from the molds and let them dry a few more days.

Are your bricks strong enough? Test them by dropping one from about hip-high. If it breaks, it probably has too much sand in it. Cracks that formed after drying could mean the dirt you used has too much clay.

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Humans have been crafting their homes from mud for thousands of years, and for good reason.

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Foraging for Wild and Edible Foods Lucie and Olivia

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Foraging for Wild and Edible Foods Lucie and Olivia

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This plant is called the Stinging Nettle and is an edible plant that often grows near ditches and disturbed sites. To harvest this plant, you put protection on your hands and carefully strip off the leaves and boil them before eating. Be careful not to touch this plant before boiling or steaming because the stinging hairs can cause a burning sensation and sometimes an allergic reaction due to irritation of the skin.

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To make the jail cell waterproof we would need to have wet mud and then let it dry. Next we need to put leaves on top so the rain will not sink through and make the inmate wet.

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Survival Skills: How to Build a Waterproof Shelter

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One of the most important survival skills to have is the ability to build not just any shelter, but a waterproof one for the best protection outdoors.

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This website shows you multiple ways to collect water in the wilderness like collecting rainwater in natural aquifers, melting snow or ice, following signs of vegetation or wildlife, find sings of water underground, or trap condensation from plants. In an emergency we could follow these tips to have a better chance of survival.

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Parker L. and Keegan M. Thicker shelter action plan Steps

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Parker L. and Keegan M. Thicker shelter action plan Steps

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1. Collect big sticks in one place

2. Place around the main, Sturdy Stick Frame in a shelter-like shape

3. Collect smaller sticks, like you did in step 1, and place them in a pile

4. Place small sticks along the gaps of the wall

5. Fill in the gaps near the ground and rest them gently

6. Place rocks around the base of the shelter to keep it in place.

7. Cover the walls off the shelter with light mud, and let it dry.

8. Finally, from the inside, stuff the cracks with moss or grass/soft leaves.

9. Now you're finished! Good luck, Survivor!

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Start by making and A frame and then adjust the sticks to interlock with one another.

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Start by building a rectangular frame from logs. Fill the frame with debris, such as dried leaves or pine branches. The debris will provide insulation that will prevent the ground from drawing heat away from the body. This is extremely important, as most body heat is lost through ground transfer.
Step 3: Frame the Shelter
It's important to remember that this type of shelter is for emergency use. Therefore, the shelter cavity should only be large enough to fit your body. The most efficient design for this type of shelter is an A frame. Adjust sticks from each side of the shelter so they meet at the top. Continue to construct the frame, placing the sticks from front to back. During this phase, it is important to think outside the box and be creative in how the sticks lock together.
Step 4: Pile It On
Once the frame is constructed, it's time to add a thick covering of debris over the entire outside of the shelter. This is the most time-consuming part of building a natural shelter. Pile leaves, sticks, and branches over the entire frame. This insulation should be 4 to 8 inches thick, enough to hold back rain and keep the inside of the shelter dry.

The most important thing to recognize when creating a survival shelter is that it is a temporary shelter designed to keep you alive rather than comfortable. Natural debris shelters are typically damp and cool inside, and they may even leak a bit. Being uncomfortable and alive is better than the alternative.

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How to Build a Survival Shelter | The Filson Journal

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Dan Wowak is the owner and instructor at Coalcracker Bushcraft and the Appalachian Bushman School. He's been an avid outdoorsman since childhood. His passion for the outdoors began while fishing and hiking with his grandfather in the hills of Appalachia. Here he shares his expertise on building a survival shelter out in the wilderness, from natural materials.

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find bugs and tree leaves for food and get storage

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Ostrich fern grows in America

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There are thought to be 350,000 different plant species in the world, and 75,000 of those are thought to be edible by most people. Most of these are limited in their exploration and act as a hidden supply chain to partially fulfill the food security and microeconomic benefits for the local or ethnic people or those nomadic people who are staying beside the forest region. This is a great source of income and a backbone of the tribal market found throughout the socioeconomic culture. However, the main subject is that it has tremendous sources of nutritious, nutraceutical, and naturally grown foods; therefore, people are talking about its health-beneficial effect, especially after the COVID-19 epidemic scenario.

Vegetables and fruits that are produced naturally without domestication and cultivation processes like irrigation, use of fertilizer, pesticides, insecticides, or other chemicals, and nursing are called wild vegetables or wild edible plants (WEP). Wild edible plants are mostly naturally grown in forests, the fringes of farmlands, and sterile land. Due to unknown health benefits, the products of wild vegetables and fruits are mainly demanded to fulfill the local market. Sometimes, it is also called famine relief food during times of scarcity of food in the locality. Wild edible plants are one of the most potent sources of nutraceuticals, and bioactive compounds such as polyphenols, vitamin B, vitamin C, proteins, carbohydrates, and fibre in food.

What is the significance of wild fruits and vegetables or edible plants?

Wild fruits and vegetables or edible plants would be a game changer for fighting malnutrition and improving the country's Global Hunger Index (GHI) across the world. Whereas, India has secured position 107th out of 121 countries on the Global Hunger Index in 2022. There are some implications beneficial for consumption, as given below.

Consumers can ensure they are free from chemicals, except for environmental exposure.

Since wild fruits and vegetables or edible plants are collected from forests or bare land, the chances of heavy metal contamination are negligible in comparison to conventionally cultivated vegetables and fruits.

Wild fruits and vegetables, or edible plants, are available at a cheap rate in the local market because they have no extra expenses during production.

It helps in fulfilling local food demand, which is basically below the poverty level.

It helps to earn money and boost microeconomics in the locality.

Wild fruits and vegetables or edible plants are the signature foods of the locality and might be best suited for that environment to be consumed by the local people, tribes, or ethnic groups.

Some wild fruits and vegetables are working as herbal medicine due to their healing efficacy.

Intentionally or unintentionally, it promotes the conservation of a wild variety of edible plants, such as wild vegetables and fruits.

The below table shows the diversified wild edible plants used in cuisines by local people, which is a distinctive symbol of culture, community, and geographical limit. In recent years, people have moved towards naturopathy and consumed more organic, natural, wild-edible vegetables and fruits to boost their immunity.

2.

Aegle marmelos L

Soh bel or bael, Stone apple

India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Nepal

Fruits to make juice, leaves (Ayurvedic purpose)

Diarrhea, Dysentery, Nausea, Jaundice, Gastric

troubles

4

Bamboo

India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka,

Tender shoot (used in cuisine)

Treat various inflammatory, skin diseases.

6
Matteuccia struthiopteris
Ostrich fern or Fiddlehead fern, or Shuttlecock fern

Northern Hemisphere in central and northern Europe, Northern Asia, and Northern North America

Whole tender plant

(used in cuisine)

Antibacterial Antiviral, Antioxidant Diabetes, and weight loss

8
Prosopis Cineraria
Khejri, Sangri (Rajasthan) Chhonkara (UP)

Western Asia, Indian Subcontinent, Rajasthan

Dried pods,

and leaves

(used in cuisine)

Leprosy, Dysentery, Asthma, Dyspepsia

How to collect wild edible vegetables, fruits, or plants?

Wild edible vegetables and fruits or plants are limited to those that are habituated or native; therefore, the only local market is the best option for a collection of these types of vegetables and fruits. Otherwise, you can collect with the help of the knowledge of ethnic groups of people or local tribes living beside the forest area where plants are natural habitat. During this process, you will need to excavate tubers and roots, pluck fruits, and collect seeds, or collect fallen leaves, flowers, seeds, and fruits from the ground.

What precautions should consumers take before consuming wild edible plants?

As there are chances of mixing other species with wild edible vegetables or fruits that should be carefully segregated, consumers should buy from the authentic local market. Consumers should be aware of or collect information about how to use wild vegetables and fruits from local tribes or sellers.

However, other factors also should be considered, such as microbiology, heavy metal, and other toxic chemicals contamination during harvesting or transporting from one place to another. In this regard, Cultivator Phyto Lab can provide world-class testing facilities in compliance with national and international regulatory bodies.

Authors

Dr. Sanjoy Gupta and Sandeep Sharma

References

https://journals.ansfoundation.org/index.php/jans/article/view/1135

https://bnrc.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s42269-022-00822-z#:~:text=Matteuccia%20struthiopteris%20is%20found%20useful,antioxidant%20and%20free%20radical%20scavenger.

https://www.eolss.net/sample-chapters/c10/E5-02.pdf

Enhancing Production and Food Value of Plants: Genetic Options, Vol. 1 (pp.146-150) Chapter: 24Publisher: Society of Sustainable Agriculture and Resource Management, Hisar, Haryana Editors: R.K. Behl, A.K. Chhabra. DOI:10.13140/2.1.2382.5601

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How wild fruit and vegetables are beneficial for a healthy lifestyle - Cultivator Phyto Lab

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There are thought to be 350,000 different plant species in the world, and 75,000 of those are thought to be edible by most people. Most of these are limited in their exploration and act as a hidden supply chain to partially fulfill the food security and microeconomic benefits for the local or ethnic people or those nomadic people who are staying beside the forest region.

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Elderberries are healthy and a great way to take advantage of being stranded other edible berries are Gooseberries,Chokeberries,and Mulberries

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Strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries are commonly available in grocery stores, but many equally delicious berries are abundant in the wild.

Wild berries thrive in many climates, and they're packed with nutrients and powerful plant compounds. Though wild berries can be tart, they're quite versatile and can be enjoyed in a wide variety of ways.

However, some wild berries contain toxic compounds. If eaten in high amounts, they may cause uncomfortable symptoms or even be fatal.

Here are 10 delicious and safe wild berries you can eat - and 8 poisonous ones to avoid.

Elderberries are the fruit of various species of the Sambucus plant.

They thrive in mild to subtropical regions of the Northern Hemisphere. The fruit tends to grow in small clusters and is black, bluish-black, or purple.

Though the berries of most Sambucus varieties are edible, the Sambucus nigra L. ssp. canadensis variety is the most commonly consumed type.

It's important to note that elderberries need to be cooked to inactivate alkaloid compounds that can cause nausea if the berries are eaten raw ( 1).

Elderberries have a tart, tangy taste, which is why they're typically cooked and sweetened to make juices, jams, chutneys, or elderberry wine.

These berries are a great source of vitamin C, with 1 cup (145 grams) providing 58% of your daily needs. Vitamin C plays many vital roles in your body but is particularly important for your immune system.

Elderberries are also rich in vitamin B6, which supports immune function (, ).

The nutrient composition of elderberries and elderberry products makes them particularly effective at boosting immune health. Several studies have shown promising, if mixed, results from elderberry extract (, , , ).

For example, a study in 312 adults found that taking 300 mg of an elderberry extract supplement both before and after traveling significantly reduced the duration and severity of colds, compared with a placebo ().

Summary
Elderberries have a tart, tangy taste when raw, so they're best enjoyed cooked. They're loaded with vitamin C and vitamin B6, both of which support immune health.

Cloudberries are berries of the plant Rubus chamaemorus, which grows in higher elevations in cool, boggy areas in the Northern Hemisphere. They are knwon to be scarce

The cloudberry plant has white flowers, and the yellow-to-orange fruit resembles a raspberry ( 9).

Fresh cloudberries are soft, juicy, and fairly tart. Their taste is best described as a mix between raspberries and red currants - with a hint of floral sweetness. They are safe to eat raw ( 1 0).

They're also high in ellagitannins, which are powerful antioxidants that can help protect your cells from free radical damage.

What's more, according to animal and test-tube studies, ellagitannins may have anticancer effects, boost your immune system, and fight inflammation ().

Since cloudberries are very scarce, scientists are exploring the possibility of industrial scale biotechnology to produce more for human consumption ().

Summary
Cloudberries are scarce and found in remote, boggy areas of the Northern Hemisphere. They have a slightly tart, sweet taste. They contain powerful antioxidants known as ellagitannins that may protect against free radical damage and offer other health benefits.

Huckleberry is the North American name for the berries of several plant species in the Vaccinium and Gaylussacia genera (, ).

Wild huckleberries grow in mountainous regions, forests, bogs, and lake basins in Northwestern America and Western Canada. The berries are small and either red, blue, or black.

Ripe huckleberries are fairly sweet with a little tartness. Though they can be eaten fresh, they're often made into tasty beverages, jams, puddings, candies, syrups, and other foods.

Huckleberries are rich in powerful antioxidants, including anthocyanins and polyphenols. In fact, they contain more of these beneficial compounds than antioxidant-rich fruits like blueberries ().

Summary
Huckleberries are fairly sweet with a little tartness and can be enjoyed fresh or cooked. They're rich in powerful antioxidants, including anthocyanins and polyphenols.

Gooseberries belong to two major groups - European gooseberries ( Ribes grossularia var. uva-crispa) and American gooseberries ( Ribes hirtellum) ( 19).

They're native to Europe, Asia, and North America and grow on a bush approximately 3-6 feet (1-1.8 meters) high. The berries are small, round, and vary from green to red or purple in color ( 19).

Gooseberries can be very tart or very sweet. They're eaten fresh or used as an ingredient in pies, wines, jams, and syrups.

In addition, the same serving packs a whopping 6.5 grams of dietary fiber, which is 23% of the daily value. Dietary fiber is a type of indigestible carb that's essential for healthy digestion (, , ).

They also contain the antioxidant protocatechuic acid, which has been shown to have antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer effects in animal and test-tube studies ().

Although these results are promising, more human research is needed to confirm these potential benefits.

Summary
Gooseberries can be tart or sweet and enjoyed fresh or cooked. They're high in fiber, vitamin C, and the antioxidant protocatechuic acid.

Chokeberries ( Aronia) grow on a shrub that's native to eastern North America ( 19).

They have a semisweet yet tart taste and can be eaten fresh, although they're more commonly made into wines, jams, spreads, juices, teas, and ice cream.

Chokeberries typically grow in wet woods and swamps. There are three main species of chokeberry - the red chokeberry ( Aronia arbutifolia), black chokeberry ( Aronia melanocarpa), and purple chokeberry ( Aronia prunifolia) ( 23).

Chokeberries are particularly high in vitamin K, a nutrient that supports bone health and is needed for important bodily functions, such as proper blood clotting (, , ).

They're also high in antioxidants, such as phenolic acids, anthocyanins, flavonols, and proanthocyanidins. These powerful plant compounds give chokeberries one of the highest antioxidant capacities of all fruits ().

Summary
Chokeberries have a semisweet yet tart taste and can be enjoyed fresh or cooked. They're high in vitamin K and numerous antioxidants.

Mulberries ( Morus) are a group of flowering plants that belong to the Moraceae family.

They grow in mild to subtropical regions in the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Mulberries are multiple fruits, which means they grow in clusters ( 28).

The berries are approximately 3/4 to 1 1/4 inches (2-3 cm) in length and typically dark purple to black in color. Some species can be red or white.

Mulberries are juicy and sweet and can be enjoyed fresh or in pies, cordials, and herbal teas. They're packed with vitamin C and provide good amounts of B vitamins, magnesium, and potassium.

Additionally, 1 cup (140 grams) of mulberries offers an impressive 14% of your daily iron needs. This mineral is necessary for important processes in your body, such as growth, development, and blood cell production (, , ).

What's more, mulberries are packed with anthocyanins, which are plant pigments that are strong antioxidants.

Test-tube and animal studies show that mulberry extract may help lower blood sugar levels, aid weight loss, fight cancer, and protect your brain from damage.

All of these benefits may be due to its high concentration of antioxidants, which include anthocyanins (, , ).

Summary
Mulberries are juicy, sweet berries that are delicious fresh or cooked. They're high in iron and anthocyanin antioxidants.

Gunter Marx Photography/Getty Images

Salmonberries are the fruit of the Rubus spectabilis plant, which belongs to the rose family.

The plants are native to North America, where they can grow up to 6.6-13 feet (2-4 meters) tall in moist coastal forests and along shorelines ( 34).

Salmonberries are yellow to orange-red and look like blackberries. They're fairly tasteless and can be eaten raw.

However, they're commonly combined with other ingredients and made into jam, candy, jelly, and alcoholic drinks.

Salmonberries are a good source of manganese, providing 55% of the RDI in 3.5 ounces (100 grams). Manganese is essential for nutrient metabolism and bone health, and it has powerful antioxidant effects ().

Summary
Salmonberries are fairy tasteless when fresh, so they're commonly made into jams, wines, and other foods. They're a good source of manganese and vitamins C and K.

Amelanchier alnifolia is a shrub that's native to North America.

It grows 3-26 feet (1-8 meters) high and produces edible fruit known as saskatoon berries. These purple berries are approximately 1/4-1 inch (5-15 mm) in diameter ().

They have a sweet, nutty flavor and can be eaten fresh or dried. They're used in pies, wines, jams, beer, cider, and sometimes cereals and trail mixes.

Saskatoon berries are one of the best sources of riboflavin (vitamin B2), containing nearly 3 times your daily needs in 3.5 ounces (100 grams) ( 38).

Summary
Saskatoon berries have a sweet, nutty flavor and can be enjoyed both fresh and dried. They're incredibly high in riboflavin, a very important nutrient.

Muscadine ( Vitis rotundifolia) is a grapevine species native to the United States.

Muscadines have a thick skin that ranges from bronze to dark purple to black. They have a very sweet yet musky taste, and their flesh's texture is similar to that of plums ( 41).

Dietary fiber may help reduce blood cholesterol levels, promote healthy digestion, and increase weight loss and feelings of fullness ().

These grape-like fruits are not only high in riboflavin and dietary fiber but also contain resveratrol.

This antioxidant is found in the skin of grapes. Human and animal studies show that resveratrol promotes healthy blood sugar levels and may protect against heart disease and certain cancers ().

Summary
Muscadine berries have a sweet yet musky taste. They're high in fiber, riboflavin, and resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant.

Buffaloberries ( Shepherdia) are the fruit of small shrubs in the Elaeagnaceae family.

The plants are native to North America and 3-13 feet (1-4 meters) in height. Silver buffaloberry ( Shepherdia argentea) is the most common species. It has green leaves covered with fine silvery hairs and pale-yellow flowers that lack petals ( 44).

Buffaloberries have a rough, dark red skin with little white dots. Fresh berries are quite bitter, so they're often cooked and made into delicious jams, jellies, and syrups. Eating too many of these berries in any form can cause diarrhea ( 46).

These berries are bursting with antioxidants, including lycopene.

Lycopene is a powerful pigment that gives red, orange, and pink fruits their characteristic color. It has been linked to a number of health benefits.

For example, studies have associated lycopene with a reduced risk of heart disease, certain cancers, and eye conditions, such as cataracts and age-related macular degeneration (ARMD) (, , , , ).

Summary
Buffaloberries are fairly bitter but can be made into delicious jams and syrups. They're high in lycopene, an antioxidant linked to a reduced risk of heart disease, eye conditions, and certain cancers.

While many wild berries are delicious and safe to eat, some you should avoid.

Certain berries contain toxic compounds that may cause uncomfortable or fatal side effects.

Here are 8 poisonous wild berries to avoid:

1. Holly berries. These tiny berries contain the toxic compound saponin, which may cause nausea, vomiting, and stomach cramps ().

2. Mistletoe. This popular Christmas plant has white berries that contain the toxic compound phoratoxin. It can cause stomach issues and a slow heartbeat (bradycardia), as well as brain, kidney, and adrenal gland toxicity ().

3. Jerusalem cherries. Also known as Christmas orange, this plant has yellow-red berries that contain solanine, a compound that can cause gastrointestinal infections, stomach cramping, and an irregular heartbeat (tachycardia) ().

4. Bittersweet. Also called woody nightshade, berries from this plant contain solanine. They're similar to Jerusalem cherries and can cause similar side effects ().

5. Pokeweed berries. These purple berries look like grapes but contain toxic compounds in the roots, leaves, stem, and fruit. This plant tends to get more toxic as it matures, and eating the berries is potentially fatal (52).

6. Ivy berries. Purple-black to orange-yellow in color, these berries contain the toxin saponin. They may cause nausea, vomiting, and stomach cramps (53).

7. Yew berries. These bright red berries contain potentially toxic seeds. One study showed that eating too many yew seeds caused seizures (53).

8. Virginia creeper berries. These climbing vine berries contain toxic amounts of calcium oxalate. Consuming too much of this compound can have toxic effects on your kidneys (54).

This list is not exhaustive, and many other poisonous berries grow in the wild. Some toxic berries even look similar to edible ones.

For this reason, the utmost caution must be taken when harvesting wild berries. If you're ever unsure whether a wild berry is safe, it's best to avoid it.

Summary
Many wild berries contain toxic compounds. Be extremely cautious when picking wild berries for consumption.

Many wild berries are delicious and safe to eat.

They're often packed with nutrients and powerful antioxidants that can provide various health benefits, such as boosting immunity, protecting your brain and heart, and reducing cellular damage.

However, some wild berries are poisonous and potentially fatal. If you're unsure about a species of wild berry, it's best to avoid eating it, as it's not worth the risk.

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10 Tasty Wild Berries to Try (and 8 Poisonous Ones to Avoid)

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Many berries are commonly available in grocery stores, but other, equally delicious ones are abundant in the wild. Here are 10 tasty wild berries to try - and 8 poisonous ones to avoid.

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To build a campfire you must choose an appropriate tinder and you need to gather sticks as kindling then you must find fire wood which should be bigger sticks and logs

then you want to find a safe spot and lay your tinder in the spot you want your fire then stack you kindling on your tinder bed then build the rest of your fire using your fire wood.

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Ultimate Guide to Building a Campfire

After a day spent outside, nothing is as comforting as a warm, crackling campfire.

Campfires are the heart of a campsite. People seem to be naturally drawn to them. Whether we come to warm our hands, roast some s'mores, sing a few songs or share stories, a campfire gathers people close together.

However, building the perfect campfire isn't as simple as tossing a few logs in a pit and lighting a match. Creating a good campfire is an art, and like any art, it requires patience, experience, good supplies and the right knowledge.

Different Types of Campfires

In many ways, a fire is a fire - they keep you warm, help you cook and create a cozy atmosphere. However, not all fires are created equal. Various types and styles of campfires will provide different effects, including heat output, cooking potential and length of burn.

Here are five of the most common campfire types - experiment with a few different ones on your next camping trip.

1. Tepee or Cone

One of the classic fire shapes, the tepee or cone fire gets its name from the shelter it resembles.

A tepee fire has a circular base with a wide diameter, letting in plenty of oxygen. To build a tepee fire, begin by laying down a large bundle of tinder. Next, use small pieces of kindling to form a tepee shape above the kindling. As the fire grows, continue to add larger sticks to the tepee structure.

One of the benefits of a tepee fire is its easy maintenance - simply lean more sticks against the frame to feed the fire as it burns. Because a tepee fire burns through wood fast, it is generally used to warm up quickly or for small cooking tasks such as boiling water.

If you want to use a tepee fire to cook a meal, wait until the wood burns through, and the cone collapses. Set a small pan or pot on the coal bed and feed the fire with small sticks or twigs to keep it going.

2. Log Cabin

For a fire that is long-lasting and easy to maintain, try a log cabin arrangement.

Begin by stacking wood as if you were building a cabin - place two pieces of wood parallel on the bottom, then stack two on top, perpendicular. Repeat the process until your fire reaches the desired height, then place tinder and kindling in the center square and ignite.

Use your broader pieces of wood for the bottom and add thinner, lighter pieces for the top. You can also experiment with tapering the shape as it grows taller, creating more of a pyramid shape than a cabin.

As they burn, the logs fall in on one another, constantly feeding new wood to the coals. Because of this, a log cabin fire tends to burn more slowly than a tepee, making it a good choice for the evenings when you want to spend a few hours around a crackling blaze.

3. Platform or Upside-Down Pyramid

Similar to the log cabin type, the platform fire was designed to cook food. The main difference between the two styles is that the logs of a platform fire are stacked closer together, and you start the fire at the top instead of the bottom.

Because you start a fire at the top of the wood, the fire burns down the logs instead of up. This creates a solid, flat platform of hot coals, perfect for cooking - you can set pots or pans directly on the coals, and the fire will sustain itself as it burns.

To build a platform campfire, start by laying three or more pieces of firewood on the ground. Place three or more on top, perpendicular to the first layer. Keep adding wood until the fire is at least three levels high, and then set tinder and kindling on top of the platform.

4. Star

When you are low on wood supplies, the star fire may be the perfect solution. It uses whole, un-split logs and burns them slowly at the ends to create a long-lasting and efficient fire.

To begin, gather four or five logs of any length. Build a small tepee fire with kindling, and drag the logs around it - one end should face the fire, and the other should lead away from it, like the points of a star or the spokes of a wheel. The tepee fire in the center will ignite the ends of the logs. As they burn, push the logs closer to the center to replace what has already been consumed.

5. Lean-To

If you've camped in breezy conditions, you have experienced the frustration of trying to start or maintain a fire in high winds- it can feel as though you are constantly battling the elements, trying to sustain a blaze long enough to cook food and keep warm.

Next time you are in the great outdoors during high winds, try building a lean-to fire. Using its own wood as a windbreak, a lean-to protects your flames from frustrating gusts.

For the simplest style of a lean-to fire, find or place a thick log on the ground and lay your tinder against it, away from the wind. Lean your kindling against the log, so it covers the tinder - once you ignite the tinder, the kindling will catch and begin slowly burning the log. As the fire grows, gradually add larger sticks to build it up, and add another full-sized log to the fire when it is big enough.

Materials You Will Need for Building a Campfire

Before you leave for a camping trip, make sure you pack or will have access to the supplies below. Also, always check with the park or campground's policies before gathering your own materials at your campsite - some locations don't permit campers to forage for tinder, kindling or firewood to protect the environment.

1. Tinder

Tinder is the smallest, easiest-to-catch materials used in building a campfire. Common types of tinder include:

Cardboard strips or pieces

Wadded up paper

Wood chips or shavings

Dryer lint

Pine needles

Dry leaves or grass

Candle wax

Commercial fire starters, sticks or bricks

You can usually gather tinder around your campsite. However, if conditions have been wet or you are worried about tinder not being readily available, you can always bring some tinder with you to make the fire-starting process easier.

2. Kindling

Kindling is larger than tinder but smaller than firewood. The most common types of kindling are small twigs or branches.

Make sure your kindling is thin - if it is too thick, it won't catch and will extinguish your small fire.

3. Firewood

Firewood is the fuel of a fire, and the most important element of good firewood is dryness. For the best campfires, you want firewood that is completely dry - it will light easily and maintain a good flame.

Most campers don't have a preference when gathering or purchasing firewood - during a camping trip, you take what is readily available. However, below are some of the common types of firewood, so you know the distinctions between each species if you have to choose:

Oak: Oak is one of the most popular types of firewood. It is a dense and slow-burning wood that produces a hot, minimal-sparking fire.

Beech: While beech firewood can burn hot and long, it must be properly seasoned for at least a year - beech wood is heavy and dense, so it needs to dry a long time before use.

Maple: Maple trees are dense and hard, and maple firewood is known for producing a long-burning campfire with high heat output.

Birch: Birch is a softer type of firewood that tends to burn quickly. However, it also gives off plenty of heat, creating a cheerful, bright campfire.

Ash: Lightweight and easy to split, ash firewood tends to burn hot, slow and steady.

Cherry or Black Cherry: With a lovely aroma and low amounts of smoke, cherry is a favorite wood for cooking, especially for smoking meats such as pork, beef, chicken and fish.

Check your location's policies carefully before attempting to gather firewood - many campgrounds sell firewood at the campground store, so you don't have to worry about packing or gathering firewood once you have set up camp.

4. Spark or Flame Source

The final thing you need is a spark or flame source.

Knowing how to start a fire with just a few sticks is a valuable survival skill. However, unless you have practiced the technique and are confident in your ability, consider packing matches or a lighter.

Flint and steel, matches, lighters and other fire starters can reliably produce a spark or flame to get your fire started.

How to Build a Campfire

Once you've gathered your supplies, you're ready to begin building your campfire.

Keep in mind that a fire needs three things to succeed: good fuel, a spark source and proper oxygen flow - even if you have great firewood and a lighter, if the pieces of wood are too close together, the flame won't get enough oxygen and will quickly die out.

Follow these steps to build an impressive campfire on your next trip:

1. Choose a Safe Spot

The first step in building a campfire is finding a safe spot.

All KOA campground campsites have a designated fire pit or fire ring, but you should still check the surrounding area to make sure there are no dead branches overhead. Clear away anything close to the fire pit that might catch fire from a stray ember or spark, and avoid starting a fire near dry grasses or brush.

In backcountry locations where fires are allowed, use an existing fire ring if possible, and only build a new ring in emergencies. Ideally, the base of your fire ring or pit should be mineral soil, gravel or sand - intense heat can sterilize healthy soil, so choose your site carefully. Make sure to clean out the fire ring of any debris before you leave the campsite.

2. Create a Tinder Bed

Once you've found a safe spot, set down a layer or bundle of tinder.

Make sure you use enough tinder - if you lay down too little, the flame will quickly die out before catching the kindling on fire. Wind or wetness could extinguish a small flame, so protect your tinder from any wind or soggy surfaces.

3. Add the Kindling

Next, stack kindling on top of the tinder.

The exact way that you lay your tinder will depend on the type of fire you are building. For example, if you are building a platform fire, you will need to build up a stack of firewood before setting your tinder and kindling on top. Alternately, for a lean-to fire, setting kindling below and around your tinder can help a spark catch.

Make sure your tinder is small enough to nurture a small flame and dry enough to easily catch fire.

4. Build Your Fire

Now, build the frame for the rest of your fire.

Think about what kind of fire you need - are you looking for a steady cooking fire, or are you wanting a hot, slow-burning fire that will keep you warm all evening?

Some fires, like platforms, stars or lean-tos, require the larger pieces of firewood to be present from the beginning. However, other types of campfires are built gradually as the flame grows.

For example, with a tepee fire, begin by arranging the kindling in a tepee formation around the bed of tinder. Continue adding larger and larger pieces of kindling as the fire grows, working your way up to firewood.

5. Celebrate!

Congratulate yourself on building a beautiful campfire, and get excited about the delicious meal or warm blaze you are about to enjoy. Next step, lighting your campfire!

How to Start a Campfire

Once you've constructed your campfire layout, the next step is to ignite it.

If conditions are favorable and you've built a solid fire, you should be able to start it by simply lighting the tinder with matches or a lighter. However, if your campsite is too windy or humid, you might experience some trouble.

It's better to prepare for a difficult fire-starting process than be caught by surprise - consider packing some waterproof matches or extra tinder that is sure to catch, like bits of broken candle wax. Once a lighter or spark has caught the tinder on fire, blow gently at the base to provide oxygen. This increases the intensity of the blaze, and it helps the flame ignite the larger pieces of kindling or firewood.

Have extra tinder and kindling ready and on-hand to feed the flame once you get a spark, and keep adding tinder and kindling until the larger pieces of firewood catch. You may need to gently fan or blow on the fire depending on which type of campfire you have built to make sure it receives enough air flow and oxygen.

Best Way to Start a Campfire With Wet Wood

When you're camping, you never need a fire more than when cool and damp out. Sometimes, the cheerful glow of a campfire is just what you need to warm up your campsite. However, starting a campfire in wet conditions is notoriously frustrating, even for seasoned campfire-starting experts.

Try these campfire tips if you're stuck in the rain on your next camping trip:

Look for sticky materials: In wet conditions, look for spruce, firs, pines or other needle-bearing trees. Their wood has sticky, highly flammable sap, which makes them a great choice for starting a fire. Evergreens are also known for keeping out the rain - look for dry wood underneath their canopies.

Split wood and kindling: Split pieces of wood to help them catch faster. Instead of using whole sticks and twigs for kindling, snap or cut them in half - the exposed inner, drier wood will light easier than the bark exterior.

Peel off the bark: Bark is designed to protect a plant from fire, and most barks aren't flammable. Carve, peel or tear away the bark from your kindling to expose dry wood underneath the surface.

Light low from the windward side: Heat rises, and fire climbs - start your fire low, and the heat from the fire will dry out the wood as it climbs. Also try lighting your fire from the windward side to let the flames move through your sticks, setting them on fire faster and more efficiently.

Adjust the shape: If you are having a difficult time keeping a fire going, opt for a taller shape - many fires are doomed from the start because the layout of the wood is too flat. Choosing another style like the tepee allows the heat from the fire to efficiently dry out the wood, prolonging your fire and producing more heat.

Consider bringing along some fire helpers as a last resort - fire bricks, dryer lint or cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly are guaranteed to catch fire, making the process less time-consuming.

How to Build the Best Campfire for Cooking

Not all fires are great for cooking. Try one of these cooking fire types, arranged by what you want to cook and available supplies:

Cooking with pots and pans: Platform fires are intended for cooking over with pots or pans. If you have brought these materials with you on your trip, try building a platform fire for the best results.

Cooking with sticks: If you plan to cook your food using sticks or skewers, a lean-to or tepee fire is your best bet - they are easy to build and burn hot, providing you with a fast meal.

Cooking with foil: For cooking hobo packs or other foods that can go directly into the coals, any fire can work. However, wait until it has produced a solid base of coals for the best results.

While it's possible to cook something using any heat source, save yourself time and energy by building one of these fires specifically designed for fast, efficient meal preparation.

Remember Fire Safety

An unattended fire can damage both the environment and your supplies - stay safe by following these fire safety tips:

Stick to designated spots: Unless you are camping in the backcountry and are experiencing an emergency, only light campfires in designated fire pits or fire rings.

Watch your fire: Stay with your fire while it is burning - never leave it unattended.

Put it out before you sleep: Once you are done with your fire, extinguish it safely and thoroughly. Never leave your fire or campsite without making sure your fire is completely put out.

Keep water or dirt on-hand: Keep a bucket of water, dirt or sand on-hand to quickly extinguish a fire in an emergency.

On average, humans cause approximately 84% of fires across the United States each year - with the right precautions, you can make sure you keep your campsite safe.

Test Out Your Campfire Skills at a KOA Campsite

With a little practice, you will become a campfire-building master in no time. Practice your skills in some of the country's most beautiful locations when you visit a KOA campground.

With the largest collection of private campgrounds in the world, KOA has nearly 500 locations across North America. KOA is dedicated to providing and maintaining high-quality campgrounds with a broad range of amenities and site options - whether you are looking for Tent Sites, Camping Cabins, RV Sites or even a more unique lodging option KOA has a campsite that will perfectly suit your needs.

At every KOA campground, you will have access to clean bathrooms, hot water, laundry facilities, a KOA store and on-site fire features like fire pits and fire rings. Test our your campfire building skills at a KOA campsite - reserve your campsite today.
About the Author: Kampgrounds of America
Kampgrounds of America is the largest system of open-to-the-public campgrounds in the world, with over 500 locations across the United States and Canada. Founded in Billings, MT in 1962, KOA's family of campground brands - KOA Journey, KOA Holiday and KOA Resort - today serve more than a million camping families each year. KOA is dedicated to "connecting people to the outdoors and each other" by providing people with a variety of camping experiences and the information they need to make the most of their camping trip. Read more of their camping and travel resources by visiting KOA.com/blog.

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Ultimate Guide to Building a Campfire | How to Build a Campfire

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Building a campfire is one of the most important parts of any camping trip. Use our guide to learn everything you need to know about building the perfect campfire.

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We need to get big sticks and then we need to make holes in them to make bars. We need to have body guards around to make sure the inmate won't get out.

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Introduction: Fake Jail Cell Prop for Pictures

This project shows how I created a simple, fake jail cell. My cousin recently graduated from the Police Academy and my aunt is having a party to celebrate. She asked if my family could design and build a simple jail cell that people can stand in for pictures.

The project is basic and gives a fun realistic finished look. Perfect for pictures! The idea can also be used to make a simple jail cell for a Haunted House.

The way this jail cell is made is to be able to be free standing and the sides open. Since people will be taking pictures I wanted the sides to be open so someone can step in from one side, take their pictures, and orderly leave from the other side. Since I used boards I already had, the pictures look best when zoomed in so the rest of the world does not show through. This project can be made to any size board and pipes you have and for Haunted Houses it can be made to have the side walls as well!

Step 1: Materials

Tools:
Hand Drill
Jigsaw
Screw Driver
Hammer (optional but comes in handy)

Materials:
4x4 Plywood Board (or larger for preference)
2- 1x2x8ft Boards
5- 1in diameter Electrical PVC pipes (10ft long)
20 PVC pipe end caps (end caps depend on how many bars you make, each bar needs two end caps)
1 package of 1/2in long number 6 pan head Screws
Metallic Aluminum Spray Paint (or color of choice)
Paints for background board (colors of your choice)
5- 2x4x8ft Boards (to make stands)
2- Pack of small L-Shaped brackets

Step 2: Paint the Background Board

If the board needs to be cut down, do this first. In my case, I used a leftover board we had laying around from an old project. It was not the size I wanted, but to keep the cost of this project down it sufficed.

Knowing I was making a jail cell, I decided I wanted to make the back wall of the cell a gray color like cement. I had a dark gray and white so I mixed my colors to make the shade of gray that I wanted. Using your painting tools, just brush a solid coat of gray onto the board.

(optional step)
Once it is dry I decided I wanted to make the wall look a little dirty and gritty. To do this I took sand paper and scuffed up the wood and paint. This gave the wood some texture and grain that I could use to dry brush over. Once it had a texture I could feel through the paint, I mixed my white and gray some more and made a dirtier gray. I then dry brushed lightly in some areas and not so lightly in others. I wanted the background to look worn and dirty.
(end optional step)

After "dirtying" up my wall I decided I wanted to give the illusion of the wall being made of cement blocks. I used some painters tape and marked out horizontal lines along the height of the board. I did my best to keep them straight and even. (Although apparently I must have a crooked eye since some of the lines sway off a bit. oops) Now paint in the horizontal brick lines with a darker gray. Once these dry measure out how wide you want your bricks to be and using the painters tape mark out the vertical brick lines between each set of horizontal lines. Make sure to make these lines uneven on each row to give it a brick wall look.

Step 3: Making the Bars- Paint and Cutting

Take your PVC Pipes and lay them down on a tarp. (or your grass if you don't mind painting your grass) Take your silver spray paint, or the color you purchased, and begin to spray down all five pipes. Let the first side dry and then spray paint the back and sides.

Once the pipes are fully painted and dry use the jigsaw and cut off the larger piece at the one end of the pipe. After all those larger pieces are removed and you have solid bars all one size mark the center point on each pipe.

Using the jigsaw, cut the pipes through the center pipe. Once you are done making all of the cuts you will have 10 approximately 5ft tall bars.

Step 4: Making the Bars- the Top and Bottom Beams

Now that we have painted and cut bars, we need a way to mount them together and make them look like actual prison bars! We will do this by using the1x2x8ft Boards. I started by cutting these boards in half to have a total of 4, 4ft long boards.

After cutting them in half I spray painted the top and one side of each board. I would have painted the whole board but I was running really low on paint.

Instructions for the Bottom and Top piece:

For the bottom and top boards, you will need to use the pipe end caps for mounting the bars. If you have paint still spray the end caps to match the color of the bars. This is not necessary, but makes the finished product look just that much nicer.

Take the end caps and drill a hole at the center of each cap. (picture 9) This hole will be used in a few minutes for screwing the pipe ends to the bar. Now take a look at your bottom bar and figure out how far apart you want each bar to be. My bars were about 4ft long and I had 10 poles to mount. I put the first and last bar 2in in from both ends and just made even spacing between them for the rest. Make your own measurements based on the length of the bottom piece you use and how many bars you have.

Once you decided and marked your spacing begin drilling the end caps onto your bottom bar. These end caps drilled into the bar will become sturdy joints to mount the pipes onto the bottom and top of the bar.

After you finish drilling all the caps into the top and bottom bar, begin putting the pipes into the bottom end caps. DO NOT put them in the TOP YET!

Step 5: Making the Bars- the Middle Beams

So the top and bottom piece are done and you mounted the bars to the bottom piece. Now it is time to make the horizontal middle bars.

Instructions for the Middle pieces:

The easiest way to do the middle pieces is to just drill a hole for each pipe to slide through. Use the marks you made for the top and bottom pieces and make the same marks on the two middle boards. Make sure these marks line up very closely to the top and bottom marks since the pipes do not really bend well.

Once you drill all the necessary holes in your board (in my case 10 holes) you can begin to slide them through the mounted poles. If you have issues when drilling the holes like I did then use your judgement and make a decision on how to fix your problem. For me, the last hole on the first pipe cracked so I just decided to take that entire pipe out of my system.

Once you slide in the two middle pieces you can add a little bit of hot glue underneath each hole. This however is not necessary if you follow the same method of mounting the bars like I did in the next few steps.

Finally, you can NOW put on the top bar piece. This is where the optional hammer comes into play. It really makes getting the bars in place an easy job for the top. Lightly tap above each bar in the end caps to really get the bars tightly into the end caps. Once these are in place and in the caps it will be a very very hard task to get them back out.

Step 6: Making the Stands

Take one 2x4x2ft and place it on its side to make a mark on a second 2x4. Make this mark in the center of the board. (see picture 1 and 2) Cut this shape out of the board. This will give you the bottom piece of the stand.

~optional~ You could round off the top edges of the base pieces so no one can get hurt if they trip over them. This project is being used at a family party and their will be a lot of smaller kids running around so for safety reasons, I felt it was necessary.

Now use the cut out 2x4x2ft and mark on the 2x4x8ft board. (see picture 4). Make this mark and cut out the square shape. This will allow the two boards to interlock and make a T shaped stand for the background piece.

Repeat this to make four sets of T-shaped stands. A set of 2 for the background and a set of 2 for the bars.

Step 7: Mounting the Background to Its Stand

This is a pretty quick step. Pre-drill four holes in the wood. Two on the left side and two on the right side. These holes will be the holes where your mount the board to the stand to raise it off the ground.

~Tip: Drill the holes in the dark color of the design so the screws will be less noticeable.

Once the holes are pre-drilled, line up your beam from the T-shaped stand and screw the background board onto the beams. Do this for both sides so you can have a free standing background.

Step 8: Mount the Bars to Thier Stand

This is the final step in the project. YAY!!!!

Take your long beam and line it up next to the bars. We will be using the L-Shaped brackets to attached the horizontal beams on the bars to the vertical beam of the stand.

Line up the beam from the stand and make careful marks where the horizontal beams on the bar meets the stand beam. Take your L-Shaped bracket and lie it against the stand beam where you made your marks.

Pre-drill the screw holes for the L brackets and begin to screw in the brackets to the stand beam. Drill and screw in the first 3 brackets worth, leave the bottom bracket for last. Sometimes when aligning the brackets the marks we make can get a little off, which is why we save the bottom bracket till the end. Doesn't hurt to re-match the beams up!!

Now attach the L-brackets to the horizontal beams on the bars. Try and do the brackets so that the L-bracket is on the back of the bars unless you plan on painting the bracket to match.

Once both sides are bracketed together pick the bars up and place them in the bottom of the T-shaped stand. You now have a set of free standing prison bars. Place them in front of your background piece and leave room for people to step between the background and the bars and to play around for silly pictures.

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Fake Jail Cell Prop for Pictures: This project shows how I created a simple, fake jail cell. My cousin recently graduated from the Police Academy and my aunt is having a party to celebrate. She asked if my family could design and build a simple jail cell that people can stand in for...

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An easy way to get food is to grow food .Here are some easy ways to get and identify seeds in a forest

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Get permission from the property owner before harvesting:

If you plan on harvesting seeds in your own backyard you can disregard this step. However, even for public spaces, such as parks, permission is needed before you can begin harvesting seeds.
Wait for seeds to ripen before harvesting:
This is often when the fruits have fully ripened or the flower heads and stems have browned. Once the seeds are ready, you can remove them by clipping off the flower heads or fruits and storing them in a paper bag. Fleshy seeds (like those in berries) will need to be removed from the fruit and stored in a paper bag in the refrigerator. Dry seeds (those without a fleshy fruit) can stay in a paper bag and stored in a cool, dry area.
Only harvest seeds from healthy plants:
Plants that are discoloured, defoliated or diseased may not provide viable seeds. Targeting the healthiest plants offers the best chances of germination the following spring.

Only harvest 10%:

While it is tempting to collect as many seeds as possible, it is crucial that we leave enough seeds to sustain natural propagation and provide food for local wildlife. One of the reasons we love gardening with native plant species is to support local biodiversity, so harvesting sustainably is the way to go. The rule of "green" thumb is that you don't want to harvest more than 10% of the seeds from each species. Trust us - 10% is plenty to enhance your native plant garden!
Keep it organized:
One of the most important things you can do is to document the seeds that you are collecting. Many of the seeds are so small it is nearly impossible to tell species apart. Keep the seeds from each species in separate paper bags and label them with the species name, date harvested and location. This way you can keep track of your seed collection as it grows!
Timing is everything:
The best time to sow your seeds is often in the fall so that the cool, damp weather will help the seeds germinate for the following spring. However, optimal storing and planting conditions change depending on the species. Databases like the one from the North American Native Plant Society are a great resource for finding out exactly what your seeds need to successfully grow!

Whether you're looking to expand your own native plant garden, collect food or share seeds with friends and family, seed harvesting is an amazing way to enjoy the urban forest well into autumn. Happy harvesting!

If you're looking to plant native trees or shrubs on your property make sure to check out LEAF's Backyard Tree Planting Program. If you would like to get involved as a Garden Steward in our Urban Forest Demonstration Gardens, you can sign up to become a volunteer.
Brian Millward is the Stewardship Coordinator at LEAF. He holds a Masters of Environmental and Life Sciences from Trent University LEAF's Urban Forest Demonstration Gardens are supported by Ontario Power Generation and the Toronto Transit Commission.

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Six Easy Steps to Harvesting Native Plant Seeds

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Get permission from the property owner before harvesting: If you plan on harvesting seeds in your own backyard you can disregard this step. However, even for public spaces, such as parks, permission is needed before you can begin harvesting seeds.

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If there is a lot of long grass near you,you can weave waterproof wall and roof cover.You can weave the grass on the walls from the bottom up.

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Survival skills and bushcraft for the modern survivalist

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Wilderness Survival Shelters

The most important survival skill once you have water is building survival shelters. When you were a kid, you probably built forts. Well, survival shelters are the grown-up version of forts. Although the shelters you see here are better than anything I ever built as a kid!

Making survival shelters is an especially important skill in cold and wet places. If you are stranded or out survival camping without any gear, then you need to know how to stay alive and comfortable. Some of the wilderness survival shelters I describe here are long-term more permanent dwellings. Some are short-term survival shelters.

If you plan on staying in the same area for weeks or months, you will probably build both a long and short-term shelter. You can use a short-term shelter like a debris hut for a week or two while you build a more permanent structure like a wigwam or wickiup.

Types of Survival Shelters

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When I was younger, some of my primitive camping stays were completely miserable because I didn't know how to build a shelter that kept me warm and dry. Learning to make decent shelters totally changed my experiences camping out with little gear.

The first really good shelter I made was a debris hut in Menomonie, Wisconsin. It was the dead of winter and I cross-country skied into a remote area. I spent the day making a shelter. That night it got down to 19 degrees BELOW ZERO. But, I was toasty warm in my shelter without a fire, blanket, or sleeping bag.

I experimented with different shelters until I could build a warm, dry survival shelter in any season in Wisconsin. Later I learned to make semi-permanent shelters in the deserts of the United States, and in more tropical areas like Thailand, Indonesia, and Myanmar.

The one certainty when learning to build your own survival shelters is that no two shelters will be the same. A lot will depend on the environment you're in and what materials you have there.

So, in addition to giving you links to my favorite long and short-term shelters, I want to go over the four essentials every shelter must have. I got these elements years ago from my friend Tom Elpel. He goes over them in his book Participating in Nature.

The Four Shelter Essentials

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Waterproofing

There are a lot of ways to make survival shelters waterproof. By far the easiest way is to carry a tarp, emergency blanket or a sheet of plastic. Those are all great if you have them with you, but there will be times when you go out without them to practice your survival skills. And there might be times when you are in an emergency situation and didn't think to bring anything with you.

So, here are some principles for waterproofing your shelter when you don't have a man-made cover with you. Simply piling up enough leaves, grasses and pine boughs over a frame like a lean-to or debris hut skeleton will create a waterproof roof over your head.

Another way to make your survival shelter waterproof is using bark slabs for the top and sides of your shelter. You can find bark slabs on dead trees. Poplars, and especially cottonwoods work really well. Traditionally live birch, elm and various poplar trees were used.

If you are in an area that has a lot of tall grass or cattails, you can build a thatched wigwam or wickiup. You'll want to start tying on the thatching at the bottom and work your way up. Put the thatching on so it overlaps about one-third of the grass below it.

And by far the easiest survival shelter to stay in is a natural shelter. Caves and rock outcroppings are great. Sometimes you can build a quick survival shelter where a tree has been uprooted. The hole in the ground gives you more space. The roots and dirt stuck in them gives you a ready-made wall already done for you.
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Fire

Having a fire INSIDE your shelter is often both overrated and dangerous. Your shelter is made of is highly flammable material so there is the possibility of you and the shelter going up in flames. And no matter how many TV shows you see where people have a fire going in their shelters, it's often easier to build a fire outside the shelter.

There are a couple of ways to get heat from a fire you have outside your shelter. The simplest is to build your fire a few feet from your shelter and make a fire reflector. The reflector is a simply a wall of rocks or branches that reflects the heat from your fire into the opening of your shelter. The fire will be sandwiched between the shelter and the reflector.

The second way to get heat in your shelter when your fire is outside is to heat rocks. You simply put medium-sized rocks in or around your fire and then drag them into your shelter at night. You can either bury the hot rocks or put them near your sleeping area.

If you bury the rocks inside your shelter, make sure you let all the moisture in the dirt evaporate before you go to bed. Otherwise, you will get soaking wet as the water in the soil condenses on you! Take it from me... that is not comfortable!
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Insulation

Insulation traps the heat that is in your wilderness survival shelter and keeps it there. The colder it is, the more insulation you need. The debris hut I stayed in when it was 19 degrees F below zero with no fire was one huge ball of insulation. The outside was grass and leaves. The inside was cattail leaves, pine boughs and fine grass.

Cattail leaves and grass stems are great materials for insulating your survival shelter. They have air trapped between their cells making them great at holding the warm air inside your shelter. Tree leaves also work well because air gets trapped between the leaves.

If you need to get warm quickly, milkweed seeds and cattail down can be stuffed down your pants and in your shirt. When wet, milkweed seed down is a better insulator than goose down!
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Windproofing

Often the materials that make your shelter waterproof will also windproof it. Thatching or a layer of leaves, grass or boughs will windproof your shelter if you put them on thick enough.

Dirt and soil are great for keeping wind from blowing through your shelter. The biggest problem with dirt is that you have to build a strong frame if you use it for the roof. The soil is heavy on its own, and it will get REALLY heavy in a rainstorm. If you make a shelter covered in soil, make sure the roof is well supported!

To make snow relatively windproof, you usually need to pile it up and compress it. This makes the snow denser and less likely to let wind through. If the outside melts a little in the daytime, it will make the shelter better able to keep the wind out the next night.
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My Favorite Wilderness Survival Shelters

Natural Shelters

Finding a ready-made survival shelter saves a lot of time and energy in the wilderness. It also frees up your time. Instead of building a shelter, you can practice other survival skills.

There is one shelter no one ever thinks of: the clothes you have on. There have been times when I have curled up in a tight ball and weathered out a storm. If you have the right clothes, you can be comfortable in rain and snow.

Natural shelters that people usually think of include caves and rock outcroppings. Those make great survival shelters. And don't overlook something as simple as a conifer that you can crawl under in an emergency.

Pines, firs and spruce trees shed water and snow really well. Even in the worst thunderstorms you can stay dry at the base of these trees. This type of survival shelter has its limitations though, you can't build a fire nearby and it's hard to insulate them.

If you find a rock outcropping or cave DO NOT build a fire underneath either of them. The heat from the fire can make the rock above you break, fall and possibly kill you. It's much better to build your fire outside the shelter and put a reflector behind the fire so the heat radiates into your living space.
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Debris Huts

Debris huts are the first type of wilderness survival shelter many of us build. The debris hut is just a ton of whatever material is available piled on top of an A-frame. The huge pile of debris insulates, windproofs and waterproofs your shelter.

Something I don't see people do that really helps to keep you warm is to pack the inside of your debris hut with pine boughs, grass and leaves. You want to stuff the inside of your hut full of these materials and then burrow into the insulation.

Something that makes building a debris hut a lot easier is to use a fallen tree, a big rock or and uprooted tree as a start to your shelter. You can use a fallen tree as the ridgepole of your shelter. And a big rock or uprooted tree gives you a complete, weatherproof wall to your debris hut.
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Wigwams and Wickiups

Wigwams and wickiups are basically the same thing. They are semi-permanent huts built on a framework of saplings. In the Western United States they are called "wickiups" and in the Eastern United States they are called "wigwams."

Usually you sink poles made of saplings into the ground in a circle and tie the tops of the trees together to form a dome-shaped skeleton. Finally, the frame is finished by tying or weaving around the dome with saplings to complete the framework.

Then the frame is covered with something that provides the four essential parts to a shelter: waterproofing, fire, insulation and windproofing. The covering depends on what is available. Common materials include grass or cattail thatching. Rings of peeled bark and sometimes slabs of bark from dead trees are also great if you have them readily available.

One unique quality of a wigwam or wickiup is that you can safely build a fire inside the shelter. The fire pit is put in the center of the shelter. There is a removable cap on the outside of the shelter directly over the fire pit that is taken off when there's a fire going. With this kind of system the smoke goes up through the hole and doesn't fill the shelter with smoke.
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Desert Shelters

Building shelters in the desert presents a few unique considerations. First of all, there are usually limited resources. You might not have trees, branches or leaves to work with. Even rocks might be hard to find.

In the worst case all you'll have is sand and more sand. The situation isn't ideal, but you have to make due as best you can.

If you have a tarp, you can build a scout pit. A scout pit is simply a body-sized trench you dig out and cover with the tarp. You leave an opening at one end of the trench and crawl in the little survival shelter. It's going to be really uncomfortable, you're going to have sand in every single orifice of your body, bar none. But your little scout pit will keep you alive.

If you're in open desert and you don't have a tarp, you just have to bury yourself in the deepest trench you can build and still get out of. Again, not fun, but functional.

Another type of desert shelter is pictured above. In this case I had a good start from a natural rock outcropping. All I needed to do was put a few rocks around the perimeter of the shelter. The rocks reflected the heat from the fire into the cabin and protected the fire from the wind. Always look for a partial shelter to give you a head start.
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Snow Shelters, Snow Caves and Quinzees

Snow caves make great survival shelters when they are done. But, you have to be really careful that you don't soak your clothes while you're building them. Wet clothing doesn't insulate as well as dry clothing.

Moisture is a problem from both directions when building snow shelters, which makes building snow caves dangerous. First, your clothes can get wet on the inside from sweat from all the work you're doing. Second, the snow can melt on you, soaking your clothes from the outside.

I have a solution that helps with both of these problems. If it's warm enough while I'm building the shelter, I'll take off as many clothes as I can and still be comfortable. I take the clothes I took off and put them somewhere where they'll stay dry. Then when I'm done building the shelter, I'll put my dry clothes on.

If I have to wear all my clothes when I'm building a snow shelter, I'll work slowly so I don't sweat very much.

The most practical snow shelter is a snow cave. The one I describe here is called a quinzee. To build one, you make a pile of snow. The top of the pile will be the top of you snow cave. You want the walls to be at least a foot thick, so make a BIG pile of snow.

Once your pile is built, you let the snow sit for an hour or two. You want the snow to gel into a solid mound of snow. Then when the snow has hardened, you hollow out the inside of the pile to make your quinzee.

For maximum comfort, the top of the shelter must be smooth. That way water runs down the walls and doesn't drip on you. You also want to pack the bottom of the shelter with some kind of insulation: pine boughs, cattails, dry grass or dry leaves.
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Tarp, Sheeting and Emergency Blanket Shelters

Sheeting type shelters are great short-term survival shelters. You take a sheet like a tarp and either wrap it around yourself or tie it down to make a survival shelter. All you need is something big enough so it reaches over your head and down the side that faces the wind.

These tarp shelters have a few advantages over primitive survival shelters. They're incredibly fast to put up. You don't need many extra materials to make them, usually just some cordage. They are waterproof. And the material to build them with is lightweight and can be easily carried in a survival kit.

Everyone has their favorite kind of sheeting that they rave about and swear is the best. I really like using rain flies from good quality tents. I had a North Face Rock 22 tent that got ripped in a wicked windstorm. The rain fly is now my favorite tarp shelter. It has built-in tie-down points, zippered openings, windows, and it's rain proof. It is a bit heavier than a tarp or plastic sheet, but for a couple of extra ounces, it's worth it to me.

Also, I see a lot of designs online for stand-alone tarp shelters. I like to use a tarp along with one of the survival shelters you see on this page. The man-made sheeting makes your shelter windproof and waterproof. I usually add leaves or grass on the outside for insulation and build a fire outside of the shelter. Mors Kochanski has a shelter using sheeting and a wood frame that looks good though I haven't made one yet.
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Survival Shelters | Yost Survival Skills | Bushcraft and Outdoor Skills

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Making wilderness survival shelters is one of the most important survival skills. Learn the elements of a good shelter and the most useful survival shelters

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1.Find a good spot to build a base

2.Collect sticks, logs, rocks, dead grass, and dry leaves.

3.Use the matirieals to build a base.

4.Stay in the base to see if it stays up. 5.Survive

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To divide rations of food, you first need to know the available food and create the meal plan. After you have done that, you have to see how much food a person needs to thrive. Then make sure to stay as organized as possible and make sure everyone gets a healthy amount of food.

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How To Ration Food ( In 6 Easy Steps ) " Prepping Planet

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Usually, most people tend to ration food in emergency situations, this way they can stretch out their food stocks for as long time as possible. Generally speaking, most people who live in the Western world had never had their food ... Read more

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Prickly pear is very common and has great benefits like 41 calories for 100g and you can eat it raw.

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7 Prickly pear (Cactus pear) Nutrition facts and Health benefits

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Prickly pear nutrition contains ample amounts of health benefiting betalain pigment antioxidants. Calories-41 per 100 g, pyridoxine-0.060 mg (4.5% DV), riboflavin-0.060 mg (4.5% DV), vitamin-C-14 mg (23% DV), copper-0.080 mg (10% DV), iron-0.30 mg (4% DV), magnesium-85 mg (21% DV).

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The judicial system that we are doing is a is a common law judicial system which moderates.

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1 Find an open space

2 mark it

3draw a map

4Clear more open space

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Foraging For Wild and Edible Foods Lucie and Olivia

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Foraging For Wild and Edible Foods Lucie and Olivia

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Lamb's Quarters is an edible plant that tastes similar to spinach. The seeds you see growing on the stem are edible as well. First, you collect and clean the leaves (these you can eat immediately). Next, you strip the seeds off in clusters and rub them through your hands to winnow away chaff. Lastly, you store the plant or eat it right then! This plant is high in Vitamins A and C.

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How do you make an oven in nature you may be asking, so here's how! First dig a hole in the shape of a rectangle. Your next step would be placing stones along the side of the rectangle and lighting a fire in the "oven". Wait until the fire has completely finished burning so the rocks are nice and hot. Place your meal inside and if you can cover it in any way, cover it.

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Do you love camping trips, but at the same time you do not want to eat canned and dry food for a couple of days straight?

How many times you wanted to cook a fresh and juicy meal, but you don't have a stove, pan or electricity in the middle of the woods? So why don't you just find out how our ancestors used to cook before electricity, just using fire and the goods resources provided by nature.

Knowing how to set up your fire area for cooking can transform your outdoor experience.

1. Cook in a fire pit

One of the easiest ways to cook outdoors is by clearing an area of ground so that you can set up a fire on top of it and then suspend pots or food over the fire, if you need to protect the fire from the wind or you need help to enclose the fire so it does not spread you can use dry stones around the edge, this can also be useful for putting pots and pans on so they stay clean.

Coals can be used for cooking and this setup is good for groups cooking at the same time.

2. Spit-roasting on a stick

If you want to eat a freshly cooked chicken or fish, but don't have a spit-roasting cooker, the easiest way to cook it would be just by using a stick and set up a fire. Food has been cooked this way for thousands of years.

Get a thick stick, one that would support the weight of the meal, assemble your food on it, and keep rotating it above the heat until it's cooked. You will probably have to secure the food on the stick with wire or natural twine, or it will twist on the stick. Alternatively, you can skewer it through at a right angle with smaller sticks.

Make sure that the flames do not scorch the food, cooking this way over hot coals is best.

3. Cook on a plank

This is a very easy and somewhat exotic way of cooking a meal. Just set up a fire, and wait until it burns out so that you have hot coals in your pit.

Find a piece of wood with a flat face, clean it, and put your piece of fish or meat on it, you can fix the food with small wooden wedges and then position the food on the plank so that it is facing the heat, just reposition as needed so that the food cooks evenly.

4. Wrapped cooking

Find yourself few big leafs (nonpoisonous), clean them up, and wrap your meal in them, place the wrapped food in a pit with hot coal and cover it with more hot coal. In just a few easy steps you could have a hot, delicious meal. This is good for foods that do not need to cook for a long time, such as fish.

5. Cook on a stone

This is easy but it can be a messy way of cooking. Place a big flat rock above a fire and support it with other stones, creating a table-like shape. Wait until the stone heats and then put your meal directly on top of it. The thinner the stone is, the better. Meat is good cooked this way

6. Oven in nature

If you want your meal to be evenly cooked, you could set up a handmade natural oven. Just dig a hole in a shape of a rectangle, and place stones on the bottom of it and its side walls. Set a fire in the hole and wait until it burns out so that the stones get really hot so that you can place your meal inside and cook it. If you can fashion a lid or cover the pit in some way you can contain the heat.

7. Cook on a stick

Of course one of the easiest ways to cook a quick meal in nature is by using a stick and fire. Just set up a fire, place your food on a small stick and cook it until it's done, simple. Although you do need to use smaller pieces of food to cook this way. It's also a great way of cooking damper bread.

So now you have some good ideas for the next time you head out for few days in the wilderness, but don't forget to bring some extra food, just in case.

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7 Ways Of Cooking Your Food In Nature - Outdoor Revival

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Do you love camping trips, but at the same time you do not want to eat canned and dry food for a couple of days straight? How many times you wanted to

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You must make sure your fire is not to exposed to wind and has plenty of bark and kindling to prevent it from going out and you also must chose the right wood .

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- Ferdinand Foch

All fires will eventually go out unless you keep feeding them. When it comes to keeping your professional passions alive, the same is true. Passion is a fire deep down in your soul. It demands fuel and attention, or like a campfire, it will eventually go out. You have to keep giving it the energy and resources it needs to stay lit and burning bright.

That is a lot of people walking around with nothing burning on the inside. According to Gallop, 70% of Americans are unhappy doing what they are doing in their jobs, businesses, and careers! That means 7 out of 10 people are not feeding their fire.

Just like a campfire, you need to keep looking for opportunities that spark your interest and reignite your flame. It could be as simple as taking a class on something new or learning an entirely different skill set.
Here are 5 Steps to Keep Your Fire Burning

1. Choose the Right Fuel

2. Add Stones to the Fire

3. Protect Your Fire from the Elements

4. Keep Stoking Your Fire

5. Fire NEEDS Oxygen

#1 Choose the Right Fuel

There are plenty of things you can throw in a fire, and many of them will burn, but not all of them will help. Plastic burns, but the results can be poisonous! Wet wood will eventually burn, but it will cause lots of smoke, and if you are not careful, the fire will go out. You need to choose the right fuel for your fire; the kind of fuel that will help it grow and burn brighter. So, what type of fuel should you use?

Choose the Right Wood to Keep Your Fire Burning

The types of wood that work best for building a fire are hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory. These types of wood have a high heat value and will create good, long-lasting fires. They are also dense, so they burn slowly and evenly. Softwoods like pine and cedar are not recommended because they do not have the same heat value and can produce more smoke.

Similarly, you need to find the right wood to keep your internal fire burning. The hardwood that will always help your fire stay lit is passion. Passion is the spark that ignites your creativity and motivation. It is the fuel that drives you to keep going even when things get hard.

Focus on how you serve the people YOU were put here to help. Those people who ignite your passion. They are the ones that make your fire burn brighter and hotter!

Use Kindling

It's important to choose the right kindling for your fire. Kindling is small, dry pieces of wood that are used to start a fire. This can be anything such as twigs, shavings, or even paper. Kindling should be dry because wet wood will produce more smoke than heat. Newspaper is an excellent choice for kindling because it is easy to light and provides a good base for the fire to start. It also does not produce any smoke when burning.

You can find kindling to help keep your internal fire burning. Things like knowledge, connection, camaraderie, and curiosity are all great fuels for keeping your passion alive. They can provide new perspectives and opportunities to explore as well as a reminder of why you're doing what you're doing in the first place.

Fire Starters

Fire starters are handy tools that can be used to help get your campfire going. This can be anything from a match to tinder cubes or even an accelerant such as lighter fluid. Fire starters make it easier for you to get the fire lit quickly and easily. It also saves time so that you don't have to spend as much effort building the fire from scratch.

To help you get your internal fire burning, look for opportunities that challenge and excite you. This can mean anything from attending a conference on an industry topic you are passionate about to talking with someone who is doing something in the field you want to get into. Fire starters can help you take that first step toward finding the right kind of fuel to keep your fire burning.

#2 Add Stones to the Fire

Adding stones around a fire both protects and preserves the flames. The heat of the fire causes small air pockets inside the stones which, in turn, radiate heat and keep the surrounding area warm. It also helps insulate the flames from the elements like wind and rain.

The best kind of stones to ring in a campfire are those that absorb and retain heat, such as soapstone or igneous rocks like basalt and granite. Basalt is a particularly good choice as it can withstand temperatures up to 900°C (1,652°F). Soapstone absorbs heat slowly and evenly while retaining the heat for a long time, making it ideal for grilling and baking. Additionally, the stones should be flat and large enough to not fall into the fire itself. Finally, make sure they have been thoroughly cleaned before using them in your campfire to avoid any unwanted debris or sparks. Never use river rocks or porous stones because they can explode when exposed to intense heat.

Build Your Internal Fire with Mentors

The stones you need to keep your fire safe and burning well are the mentors you choose for your life. These are the people that are there to protect you from you! Mentors will be there to challenge you, provide guidance, and give you the advice you need to stay on the right path. Mentors care more about your FUTURE than your FEELINGS. Choose them wisely because they are the rocks that keep your fire stoked and insulated from anyone or anything trying to put it out.

#3 Protect Your Fire from the Elements

When building a campfire, it is important to protect your fire from elements like rain and wind. You can do this by creating a shelter or "fire pit" around the flames, which will help keep your fire contained and safe. This can be done by digging out a shallow hole in the ground that is large enough to fit all your materials.

In the same way, you need to protect your internal fire from outside elements such as fear, doubt, and negativity. That's why it's so important to take care of yourself. Fill your life with things that make you happy, surround yourself with positive people, and feed your spirit through activities like reading or music. Take a break when needed and don't be afraid to ask for help when things seem overwhelming. When you take care of yourself, you can keep the fire inside of you burning brighter and hotter!
Do not let them Rain on your Fire!

Rain, wind, and cold can all damage your fire. These elements will ALWAYS be around, so you must be prepared for them. Elements that might dampen your fire can even include Friends, Family, and Co-Workers. Some of them will be carrying the Rain, Wind, and Cold. These things will show up in their attitude and words: Complaining, Whining, Blaming, Gossiping, and Drama.

#4 Keep Stoking Your Fire

Stoking a campfire is an essential part of the fire-building process and ensures that your flames remain burning strong. Without proper stoking, your fire will eventually die out. To keep your campfire going, you need to constantly add fuel and stir up the embers. This ensures that oxygen reaches all parts of the wood, allowing it to burn evenly and consistently.

1. Keep the fire small, yet big enough to contain all your fuel.

2. Make sure there is enough space between the logs to allow for sufficient oxygen flow and heat circulation.

3. Place smaller pieces of wood on top of larger ones so that they burn quickly and thoroughly.

4. Regularly add more kindling or tinder to help keep your flames burning longer and hotter.

5. Leaning logs against each other in a criss-cross pattern can help keep them upright while creating an efficient airflow through which oxygen can reach deeper into the pile and create a larger flame.

6. Use long-handled tools like shovels, rakes, and tongs to stir up embers at various points around the perimeter without getting too close to any sparks or flames

Here are some tips on how best to stoke a campfire:

Stoking Your Internal Fire

Having a Fire that burns at a high level demands attention. You must keep arranging the wood and coals to get the most out of it. This will take practice to develop the skill. The same applies to your internal fire - you need to keep it stoked! This means feeding your mind with positive thoughts, taking action toward your goals, and doing things that bring you joy. It also means connecting with like-minded people who believe in you and can help you stay motivated.

Extrinsic Stoking relies on outward motivation - short term.

Intrinsic Stoking is an inward motivation - long term.

There are 2 types of stoking you can use: Extrinsic or Intrinsic.

The difference between the two is that one benefits the person stoking the fire (Extrinsic), and the other benefits EVERYONE (Intrinsic)! Building your internal fire with both Extrinsic and Intrinsic stoking will help you live a more fulfilled life and reach the best versions of yourself!

Stoking your internal fire is not always easy. It requires discipline and consistency. It means making small changes in your daily habits, such as carving out time for yourself to focus on self-care, developing positive strategies like affirmations or mantras to keep you motivated and on track, and setting realistic goals that will help you reach where you want to be.

#5 Fire NEEDS oxygen

It is critical for a fire to be able to breathe. Make sure the air you are blowing into your fire has value. Your self-talk is essential to a healthy fire. Speak to the future you want, not the one you have. Your words are powerful and can create success or failure.

Be careful what you are putting into your mind. What you read, listen to, and watch will come out of your mouth to eventually create your life. Feed your mind information with value.

The key to keeping your fire burning bright is to continuously add more fuel. Always be on the lookout for new ways to add value, knowledge, and experience to your own life. This will keep your internal fire blazing!
Find Your Passion...Find Your Life!
It is YOUR Responsibility to set yourself on Fire every day.

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5 Steps to Keep Your Fire Burning - Laurus College

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Passion is a Fire deep down in your soul. It demands fuel and attention to thrive. Here are 5 Steps to Keep Your Fire Burning

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The way to collect sap without anything is to dig a hole in the tree and it will be there. It is best to do it during sap season and when it is around the 30-40 degree mark.

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Subsurface groundwater may be indicated by even greener patches of grass. Certain animals, like pigs and bees, are particularly skilled at locating groundwater. When groundwater evaporates, layers of salt or other minerals may remain on the top, forming a white crust that suggests the presence of a reservoir under the surface.

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When drilling in a remote location, such as in the case of a mission project in a developing country, finding a suitable groundwater source to tap into is critical to the well's long-term viability. It's important to find an aquifer large enough to support the surrounding communities.

Finding Groundwater
Use clues from the landscape and lean on local knowledge to locate an area where groundwater is close enough to the surface to reach. Also, consider how deep the rig you are working with can drill. For example, some smaller mechanically powered drills can drill to 200 feet, while some hydraulic rigs can reach depths of 300 feet.

Professional geophysical survey equipment is ideal for finding plentiful groundwater close to the surface, but it isn't necessary. Drillers can take clues from the landscape to make an educated guess about what's below.

Ask locals where they currently get their water. Existing hand-dug wells will reveal groundwater depth and give insight into subsurface soil properties.

Sand or gravel areas in the bottom of valleys will often be home to groundwater. These layers can be covered by clay or silt, so it's prudent to check these areas thoroughly.

Natural springs usually indicate groundwater is nearby. A spring that flows year-round will likely reveal a productive aquifer. Even if a spring dries up at times, it may still be atop a suitable groundwater supply, so it is worth looking into further.

If there are streams in the area, look for sections where the flow is greater. This can mean groundwater is discharging into the stream, pointing to a good spot to drill.

Groundwater at shallow depths often can nourish above-ground vegetation. Trees or shrubs that stay green in dry seasons may have roots that can reach the supply. Even greener patches of grass can indicate close-to-surface groundwater.

Animals, especially bees and pigs, can be talented at finding groundwater.

A white crust on the ground surface may be salt or other mineral deposits left after groundwater has evaporated, indicating a reservoir underneath.

The Pilot Hole
Despite efforts to select an appropriate site, there's no guarantee water will be found with every bore. That's why most drilling projects should start with a pilot hole. Use a small pilot bit to bore a hole. Depending on your well drilling equipment and site conditions, the time for this process will vary. Carefully collect and record the cutting samples from this exploratory hole to develop a boring log, which will help design the future well if the site works out.
Watch for signs that an aquifer has been reached as the borehole is advanced, such as:

1) Thinner mud.
2) "Streams" of clear water in the drilling mud as it exits the borehole.
3) Changes in mud temperature.
4) Sand or gravel in the cuttings.
5) Clay chips that are moist inside when broken apart.
6) A rapid increase or decrease in mud levels in the suction pit.

Remember that finding a site that produces a sufficient amount of water is more important than choosing a convenient location. Drilling close to a community should not cause drillers to sacrifice well viability.

About the author
As President of Little Beaver and Lone Star Drills, Joe Haynes works with a team of engineers to develop digging and drilling solutions, including earth drills, mini trenchers, water well drills, and horizontal boring kits. He has more than four decades of experience in the drilling industry and is committed to providing long-lasting solutions to customers around the world.

About the company
Lone Star Drills are innovative additions to the Little Beaver product family that are designed to be a convenient, powerful solution in areas with minimal resources for transportation and operation. Twelve models are available, and they are ideal for use in a variety of applications including water well drilling, soil sampling, geotechnical testing and auger drilling. For more information, contact Lone Star Drills at [email protected] or www.lonestardrills.com.

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By Joe Haynes When drilling in a remote location, such as in the case of a mission project in a developing country, finding a suitable groundwater source to tap into is critical to the well's long-term viability. It's important to find an aquifer large enough to support the surrounding communitie

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You can use tree bark to waterproof a shelter.You can stick tree bark from a dead tree or some from the ground onto your roof or walls.

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Survival skills and bushcraft for the modern survivalist

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Wilderness Survival Shelters

The most important survival skill once you have water is building survival shelters. When you were a kid, you probably built forts. Well, survival shelters are the grown-up version of forts. Although the shelters you see here are better than anything I ever built as a kid!

Making survival shelters is an especially important skill in cold and wet places. If you are stranded or out survival camping without any gear, then you need to know how to stay alive and comfortable. Some of the wilderness survival shelters I describe here are long-term more permanent dwellings. Some are short-term survival shelters.

If you plan on staying in the same area for weeks or months, you will probably build both a long and short-term shelter. You can use a short-term shelter like a debris hut for a week or two while you build a more permanent structure like a wigwam or wickiup.

Types of Survival Shelters

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When I was younger, some of my primitive camping stays were completely miserable because I didn't know how to build a shelter that kept me warm and dry. Learning to make decent shelters totally changed my experiences camping out with little gear.

The first really good shelter I made was a debris hut in Menomonie, Wisconsin. It was the dead of winter and I cross-country skied into a remote area. I spent the day making a shelter. That night it got down to 19 degrees BELOW ZERO. But, I was toasty warm in my shelter without a fire, blanket, or sleeping bag.

I experimented with different shelters until I could build a warm, dry survival shelter in any season in Wisconsin. Later I learned to make semi-permanent shelters in the deserts of the United States, and in more tropical areas like Thailand, Indonesia, and Myanmar.

The one certainty when learning to build your own survival shelters is that no two shelters will be the same. A lot will depend on the environment you're in and what materials you have there.

So, in addition to giving you links to my favorite long and short-term shelters, I want to go over the four essentials every shelter must have. I got these elements years ago from my friend Tom Elpel. He goes over them in his book Participating in Nature.

The Four Shelter Essentials

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Waterproofing

There are a lot of ways to make survival shelters waterproof. By far the easiest way is to carry a tarp, emergency blanket or a sheet of plastic. Those are all great if you have them with you, but there will be times when you go out without them to practice your survival skills. And there might be times when you are in an emergency situation and didn't think to bring anything with you.

So, here are some principles for waterproofing your shelter when you don't have a man-made cover with you. Simply piling up enough leaves, grasses and pine boughs over a frame like a lean-to or debris hut skeleton will create a waterproof roof over your head.

Another way to make your survival shelter waterproof is using bark slabs for the top and sides of your shelter. You can find bark slabs on dead trees. Poplars, and especially cottonwoods work really well. Traditionally live birch, elm and various poplar trees were used.

If you are in an area that has a lot of tall grass or cattails, you can build a thatched wigwam or wickiup. You'll want to start tying on the thatching at the bottom and work your way up. Put the thatching on so it overlaps about one-third of the grass below it.

And by far the easiest survival shelter to stay in is a natural shelter. Caves and rock outcroppings are great. Sometimes you can build a quick survival shelter where a tree has been uprooted. The hole in the ground gives you more space. The roots and dirt stuck in them gives you a ready-made wall already done for you.
Top of wilderness survival shelters page

Fire

Having a fire INSIDE your shelter is often both overrated and dangerous. Your shelter is made of is highly flammable material so there is the possibility of you and the shelter going up in flames. And no matter how many TV shows you see where people have a fire going in their shelters, it's often easier to build a fire outside the shelter.

There are a couple of ways to get heat from a fire you have outside your shelter. The simplest is to build your fire a few feet from your shelter and make a fire reflector. The reflector is a simply a wall of rocks or branches that reflects the heat from your fire into the opening of your shelter. The fire will be sandwiched between the shelter and the reflector.

The second way to get heat in your shelter when your fire is outside is to heat rocks. You simply put medium-sized rocks in or around your fire and then drag them into your shelter at night. You can either bury the hot rocks or put them near your sleeping area.

If you bury the rocks inside your shelter, make sure you let all the moisture in the dirt evaporate before you go to bed. Otherwise, you will get soaking wet as the water in the soil condenses on you! Take it from me... that is not comfortable!
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Insulation

Insulation traps the heat that is in your wilderness survival shelter and keeps it there. The colder it is, the more insulation you need. The debris hut I stayed in when it was 19 degrees F below zero with no fire was one huge ball of insulation. The outside was grass and leaves. The inside was cattail leaves, pine boughs and fine grass.

Cattail leaves and grass stems are great materials for insulating your survival shelter. They have air trapped between their cells making them great at holding the warm air inside your shelter. Tree leaves also work well because air gets trapped between the leaves.

If you need to get warm quickly, milkweed seeds and cattail down can be stuffed down your pants and in your shirt. When wet, milkweed seed down is a better insulator than goose down!
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Windproofing

Often the materials that make your shelter waterproof will also windproof it. Thatching or a layer of leaves, grass or boughs will windproof your shelter if you put them on thick enough.

Dirt and soil are great for keeping wind from blowing through your shelter. The biggest problem with dirt is that you have to build a strong frame if you use it for the roof. The soil is heavy on its own, and it will get REALLY heavy in a rainstorm. If you make a shelter covered in soil, make sure the roof is well supported!

To make snow relatively windproof, you usually need to pile it up and compress it. This makes the snow denser and less likely to let wind through. If the outside melts a little in the daytime, it will make the shelter better able to keep the wind out the next night.
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My Favorite Wilderness Survival Shelters

Natural Shelters

Finding a ready-made survival shelter saves a lot of time and energy in the wilderness. It also frees up your time. Instead of building a shelter, you can practice other survival skills.

There is one shelter no one ever thinks of: the clothes you have on. There have been times when I have curled up in a tight ball and weathered out a storm. If you have the right clothes, you can be comfortable in rain and snow.

Natural shelters that people usually think of include caves and rock outcroppings. Those make great survival shelters. And don't overlook something as simple as a conifer that you can crawl under in an emergency.

Pines, firs and spruce trees shed water and snow really well. Even in the worst thunderstorms you can stay dry at the base of these trees. This type of survival shelter has its limitations though, you can't build a fire nearby and it's hard to insulate them.

If you find a rock outcropping or cave DO NOT build a fire underneath either of them. The heat from the fire can make the rock above you break, fall and possibly kill you. It's much better to build your fire outside the shelter and put a reflector behind the fire so the heat radiates into your living space.
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Debris Huts

Debris huts are the first type of wilderness survival shelter many of us build. The debris hut is just a ton of whatever material is available piled on top of an A-frame. The huge pile of debris insulates, windproofs and waterproofs your shelter.

Something I don't see people do that really helps to keep you warm is to pack the inside of your debris hut with pine boughs, grass and leaves. You want to stuff the inside of your hut full of these materials and then burrow into the insulation.

Something that makes building a debris hut a lot easier is to use a fallen tree, a big rock or and uprooted tree as a start to your shelter. You can use a fallen tree as the ridgepole of your shelter. And a big rock or uprooted tree gives you a complete, weatherproof wall to your debris hut.
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Wigwams and Wickiups

Wigwams and wickiups are basically the same thing. They are semi-permanent huts built on a framework of saplings. In the Western United States they are called "wickiups" and in the Eastern United States they are called "wigwams."

Usually you sink poles made of saplings into the ground in a circle and tie the tops of the trees together to form a dome-shaped skeleton. Finally, the frame is finished by tying or weaving around the dome with saplings to complete the framework.

Then the frame is covered with something that provides the four essential parts to a shelter: waterproofing, fire, insulation and windproofing. The covering depends on what is available. Common materials include grass or cattail thatching. Rings of peeled bark and sometimes slabs of bark from dead trees are also great if you have them readily available.

One unique quality of a wigwam or wickiup is that you can safely build a fire inside the shelter. The fire pit is put in the center of the shelter. There is a removable cap on the outside of the shelter directly over the fire pit that is taken off when there's a fire going. With this kind of system the smoke goes up through the hole and doesn't fill the shelter with smoke.
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Desert Shelters

Building shelters in the desert presents a few unique considerations. First of all, there are usually limited resources. You might not have trees, branches or leaves to work with. Even rocks might be hard to find.

In the worst case all you'll have is sand and more sand. The situation isn't ideal, but you have to make due as best you can.

If you have a tarp, you can build a scout pit. A scout pit is simply a body-sized trench you dig out and cover with the tarp. You leave an opening at one end of the trench and crawl in the little survival shelter. It's going to be really uncomfortable, you're going to have sand in every single orifice of your body, bar none. But your little scout pit will keep you alive.

If you're in open desert and you don't have a tarp, you just have to bury yourself in the deepest trench you can build and still get out of. Again, not fun, but functional.

Another type of desert shelter is pictured above. In this case I had a good start from a natural rock outcropping. All I needed to do was put a few rocks around the perimeter of the shelter. The rocks reflected the heat from the fire into the cabin and protected the fire from the wind. Always look for a partial shelter to give you a head start.
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Snow Shelters, Snow Caves and Quinzees

Snow caves make great survival shelters when they are done. But, you have to be really careful that you don't soak your clothes while you're building them. Wet clothing doesn't insulate as well as dry clothing.

Moisture is a problem from both directions when building snow shelters, which makes building snow caves dangerous. First, your clothes can get wet on the inside from sweat from all the work you're doing. Second, the snow can melt on you, soaking your clothes from the outside.

I have a solution that helps with both of these problems. If it's warm enough while I'm building the shelter, I'll take off as many clothes as I can and still be comfortable. I take the clothes I took off and put them somewhere where they'll stay dry. Then when I'm done building the shelter, I'll put my dry clothes on.

If I have to wear all my clothes when I'm building a snow shelter, I'll work slowly so I don't sweat very much.

The most practical snow shelter is a snow cave. The one I describe here is called a quinzee. To build one, you make a pile of snow. The top of the pile will be the top of you snow cave. You want the walls to be at least a foot thick, so make a BIG pile of snow.

Once your pile is built, you let the snow sit for an hour or two. You want the snow to gel into a solid mound of snow. Then when the snow has hardened, you hollow out the inside of the pile to make your quinzee.

For maximum comfort, the top of the shelter must be smooth. That way water runs down the walls and doesn't drip on you. You also want to pack the bottom of the shelter with some kind of insulation: pine boughs, cattails, dry grass or dry leaves.
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Tarp, Sheeting and Emergency Blanket Shelters

Sheeting type shelters are great short-term survival shelters. You take a sheet like a tarp and either wrap it around yourself or tie it down to make a survival shelter. All you need is something big enough so it reaches over your head and down the side that faces the wind.

These tarp shelters have a few advantages over primitive survival shelters. They're incredibly fast to put up. You don't need many extra materials to make them, usually just some cordage. They are waterproof. And the material to build them with is lightweight and can be easily carried in a survival kit.

Everyone has their favorite kind of sheeting that they rave about and swear is the best. I really like using rain flies from good quality tents. I had a North Face Rock 22 tent that got ripped in a wicked windstorm. The rain fly is now my favorite tarp shelter. It has built-in tie-down points, zippered openings, windows, and it's rain proof. It is a bit heavier than a tarp or plastic sheet, but for a couple of extra ounces, it's worth it to me.

Also, I see a lot of designs online for stand-alone tarp shelters. I like to use a tarp along with one of the survival shelters you see on this page. The man-made sheeting makes your shelter windproof and waterproof. I usually add leaves or grass on the outside for insulation and build a fire outside of the shelter. Mors Kochanski has a shelter using sheeting and a wood frame that looks good though I haven't made one yet.
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Survival Shelters | Yost Survival Skills | Bushcraft and Outdoor Skills

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Making wilderness survival shelters is one of the most important survival skills. Learn the elements of a good shelter and the most useful survival shelters

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with stone boiling you have to do hard work and boil stones by finding water and making a fire

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You won't last more than three days if you're stuck in the wild without fresh water. When you find yourself in a survival situation, your first task is locating clean drinking water. If you're lucky, the environment you find yourself in will provide you with a source of water-however, it's highly unlikely that it will be immediately drinkable.

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To build a court room you want a flat, big, wide, area to build the court. The reason you do this is so can have a nice court and nice court trials.

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How to Build a Podium/Lectern for under $20.

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This video teaches you how to collect water from trees by hanging a plastic bag from a leafy branch.

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How to Collect Clean, Drinkable Water from Plants

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Starving is not a good feeling so usually you just go to the pantry to get something to eat but in the wilderness it's ten times harder to find food.Your mind might try to trick you but don't be tricked here are somethings that look like food but actually aren't.

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45 Times Things Looked Like Food, But Weren't (New Pics) | DeMilked

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Have you ever gotten so hungry everything around you started looking like food? Don't worry - you're not alone. In fact, there's a whole subreddit dedicated to inedible things that look awfully delicious and staring at rocks and mushrooms has never made us this hungry before.

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American Beautyberries a make teas, The tea from their leaves are good for fevers and headaches, roots are good for stomachaches, and berries are good for colic.

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To build a stone wall you must do things such as clearing space, preparing all the equipment necessary, and planning your build.

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boiling water is one of the best ways to purify water. Boiling clear water is the most efficient way to make water drinkable. bacteria and microorganisms can’t survive in boiling water, and they will likely die off during the heating process.

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You won't last more than three days if you're stuck in the wild without fresh water. When you find yourself in a survival situation, your first task is locating clean drinking water.

If you're lucky, the environment you find yourself in will provide you with a source of water-however, it's highly unlikely that it will be immediately drinkable. There are thousands of microorganisms and bacteria that live in water and without proper filtration, you could end up becoming violently ill-or even dying-after consuming unpurified water.

This guide will teach you how to purify water in the wild so you can worry less about survival when things don't go according to plan. Take a look at these seven filtration systems designed to help you access clean water in any survival situation.

1. Water Filtration System

In order to learn how to filter water in the wild, it's important to practice at home. By gathering basic materials like sand and rocks, you can easily create a tool that can be used to filter water in the great outdoors.

Keep in mind, filtering water in nature through things like sand and charcoal won't purify it completely, but it will remove physical threats and hazards. You will still need to use an additional method for purifying water in the wild before it's safe to drink.

In order to create your filter, you'll need a cone-like container to hold your filtration materials, like a plastic water bottle.

If need be, you can create a cone using large leaves and bundled sticks. Adding a bit of moss or cloth at the bottom of your filter will allow you to prevent your filtration materials (sand, rocks, moss, etc) from escaping out of the bottom.

Pro tip: if you can't find any materials for your filter in the wild, using a T-shirt or bundle of cloth is the next best thing. Consider washing or boiling your cloth before using it as a filter.

2. Boiling

Boiling water is one of the best wilderness water purification methods. Boiling clear water is the most efficient way to make it safe to drink. Most bacteria and microorganisms can't survive in boiling water, and they will likely die off during the heating process.

Only boil clear water. If you boil water contaminated with physical materials like dirt and leaves, you could still end up getting sick from the heavy minerals that will seep into your water. Even stagnant water from lakes can be boiled and purified.

With a solid container and a decent fire, you could have purified water in as little as 10 minutes. Just make sure that you let the water bubble for at least five minutes before you remove it from the fire. Once your water has been thoroughly boiled, let it rest for another five minutes.

3. Tablets or Drops

If you plan on making a bug out bag checklist to build up your emergency supplies, be sure to add purification tablets or drops to the list. When you don't know how to purify water in the wild, these can work in a pinch.

The most common ingredients in the filtration tablets are iodine, chlorine, and potassium permanganate. In small enough doses, these ingredients aren't harmful. However, they are extremely efficient at removing harmful organisms in your drinking water.

One of our best disaster preparedness tips: Include some of these purifying drops in your family's emergency preparedness bags.

One drawback of tablets is that you will need a way to measure the amount of water you're going to purify so you don't over or under-use the drops/tablets. Most tablets require about 20 liters of water.

Here are the steps you need to take when purifying your water with tablets:

Filter 20 liters (or required amount) until water is clear.

Fill your container and add the drops or tablets in as instructed.

Shake or stir the container for about 10-20 seconds to ensure that everything is evenly mixed.

Let the water rest for at least 20 minutes before you drink it.

4. Distillation

This method of purifying water in the wild is particularly useful in tropical settings or Pacific regions. Often, when you find fresh water in a tropical setting, it may contain high levels of sodium and minerals. Drinking this water may cause you to become even more dehydrated if you aren't careful.

One way to separate the water from its salts and minerals is to distill it. However, this process requires some items that might not be accessible in the wild. For the distillation process to work, you will need some type of container, a smaller container, and a cover.

By placing the smaller vessel inside the larger one and filling the larger one with salt water, you can cover it and let condensation naturally separate the water for you. Just make sure that your cover is indented towards the smaller vessel so that the condensation collects on the cover in a way that causes it to run down and drip into your smaller container.

With enough sunlight and the right gear, you can easily gather all of the drinkable water you need to survive. While this process doesn't fully purify your water, it distills it. This water can then be filtered using an emergency water filter.

5. Plants

You might be surprised to learn that there are a handful of plants in the wild that will purify and/or filter your water. However, you need to have a strong understanding and familiarity with these plants before using them. A single mistake when learning how to purify water in the wild with plants could lead to severe consequences.

The following flowers and plants can be used to remove dangerous contaminants from water:

Plant Xylem

Cilantro

Rice and coconuts

Banana peels

Fruit Peels

Reeds and bulrushes

Jackfruit seeds

Java plum seed

Moringa Oleifera

Oregon Grape

Fruit peels and shrubs like the Oregon Grape are a great way to purify your water.

By sealing and soaking your clear water in a bag with these plants, you can easily create clean drinking water. The inner bark of the Oregon Grape plant naturally contains berberine which is an antimicrobial alkaloid.

Unfortunately, you aren't likely to find this plant in a tropical or desert setting. Citric fruits and their seeds are a great substitute, and if you have access to coconuts, they are a great source of both water and water purifying materials.

6. Stone Boiling

There are going to be a handful of situations when you're stuck in the wild without the sufficient materials needed to boil your water. Even if you're crafty enough to construct a clay pot using materials from a riverbed, it won't likely withstand the heat needed to bring your water to a boil.

To get around this roadblock, many wilderness survivalists have adapted the method of bringing rocks to extremely high temperatures before dropping them in water.

You will still need some kind of container for your water that won't get destroyed by these extremely hot rocks, but this may be a viable solution in a pinch. Grab a few stones, wash them, and throw them in the coals of a hot fire.

Once the rocks are hot enough, they can be removed with wooden tongs and placed into your water container. If your water doesn't begin to boil within seconds after dropping the rocks in, then you will have to continue adding hot rocks until it does or start over again.

The best vessels for this strategy are larger, hollowed out rocks that are capable of holding water.

7. Sedimentation

It might seem like a no-brainer when discovering how to filter water in the wild, but this method often goes overlooked. When faced with extremely murky water, sedimentation is a great way to deal with the excess of unwanted particles.

Simply by leaving your water stagnant for an extended period will force all of the particles to sink to the bottom, leaving the clean water at the top. Using a separate container, the top part of the water can be scooped up used in your purification system.

When you take the clean water from the top, do your best not to disturb the water as much as possible or it could become mixed again.

If you want to avoid the hassle of purifying water in the wilderness using only primitive tools, consider picking up a survival backpack that contains all of the gear you need to get through any mishap. The Uncharted SEVENTY2 Survival Kit is fully equipped with a filter and two water containers so you won't have to worry.

If you're ready to prepare yourself and your family for any survival situation, pick up an Uncharted survival backpack today.

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You won't last more than three days if you're stuck in the wild without fresh water. When you find yourself in a survival situation, your first task is locating clean drinking water. If you're lucky, the environment you find yourself in will provide you with a source of water-however, it's highly unlikely that it will be immediately drinkable.

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We are going to build a court system with judges and a jury. We will also build a court room for criminals.

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Basic Wilderness Survivalwta Skills : Wilderness Survival: Water Purification Tablets

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purifying water by distillation has pros and cons one con could be that you need to find two bottles

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Basic Wilderness Survival Skills : Wilderness Survival: Water Purification Tablets

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Most leaves are waterproof. they have a waxy outer part that repells water Most leaves are quite waterproof. Their outer surface is covered in a waxy cuticle. A cuticle is a coating made of many layers of different biological materials. The waxy stuff is mostly hydrophobic hydrophobic is water proof

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Why are leaves waterproof?

WHAT CAN WE LEARN FROM PLANT LEAVES?

Most leaves are quite waterproof. Their outer surface is covered in a waxy cuticle. A cuticle is a coating made of many layers of different biological materials. These materials are mostly hydrophobic. Hydrophobic materials repel water.

The main function of the waxy cuticle is to prevent water movement into or out of the leaf. It is important to prevent water loss from the plant as the water contained in the plant leaves is essential for photosynthesis to continue. Photosynthesis is how plants convert sunlight into energy.

ULTRA-HYDROPHOBIC LEAVES

Many plants have ultra-hydrophobic surfaces. Ultra-hydrophobic leaves repel water even more than normal leaves. They have a specialised surface that has extremely small bumps, called papillae. Papillae are not visible to the naked eye. These form small air pockets that water can float on, above the surface of the leaf. They also make it easier for water to roll off. This effect is called the Lotus Effect, as it was discovered in Lotus leaves.

The Lotus Effect also makes plants self-cleaning. This means dirt, as well as water, is removed from the surface of the plant. This is because water droplets attract dirt to them. The dirt-containing water droplets then roll off the plant. Any dirt on the surface of the leaf blocks sunlight from reaching the leaf. When dirt is removed, more sunlight can reach the leaf to make energy.

The Lotus Effect is also a way for the plant to protect itself from microscopic lifeforms called pathogens. Pathogens cause disease. Examples of pathogens include viruses and bacteria. Pathogens will be cleaned from the surface in the same way that dirt is.

Other ultra-hydrophobic surfaces include some insect wings.

SYNTHETIC ULTRA-HYDROPHOBIC MATERIALS

The self-cleaning and non-stick nature of ultra-hydrophobic surfaces has inspired the development of synthetic self-cleaning materials. These materials mimic the microscopic structure of leaf surfaces.

Superhydrophobic coatings that can be applied to various objects are the most common synthetic self-cleaning substances.

These substances are more environmentally friendly than Teflon and PTFE that are currently used as non-stick coatings. They are toxic and can accumulate in nature.

Possible applications for self-cleaning coatings:

Non-stick frying pans

Self-cleaning solar panels

In toilets to avoid disease transmission via pathogens on the surface

This is one of the many examples of nature inspiring human technological advances. Often the solutions nature has found to problems are better than those that humans find. Nature may know best!

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Why are leaves waterproof? - Right for Education

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WHAT CAN WE LEARN FROM PLANT LEAVES? Most leaves are quite waterproof. Their outer surface is covered in a waxy cuticle. A cuticle is a coating made of many layers of different biological materials. These materials are mostly hydrophobic. Hydrophobic materials repel water.

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Ask questions and listen to them talk first. Be clear with them.

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To get water from a tree(maple, sycamore, hickory, walnut, and birch) pick a point about 4 to five feet above the ground, then make a hole there and water will come out.

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get shrubs and logs for fire. Then get a long stick, rub that stick very hard on a piece of wood to start the ember. Next put the ember in your shrubs and blow it. Yay you made a fire.

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Wild Leek

In the spring, these plants show up in moist soil, under trees most of the time. They taste good and come in broads of 2 to 3. Don't harvest the bulb because it takes them 5 years to mature.

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50 Edible Wild Plants You Can Forage for a Free Meal

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Edible wild plants are everywhere around us, just waiting to be plucked and eaten. The key is knowing what to look for and what to avoid.

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There are 4 different types of judicial systems 1 common law 2 civil law 3 religious law 4 customary law.

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Take advantage of nature's offer and get new plants for free - harvest seeds from your own garden, or even local streets or woodland. You can collect them from trees, shrubs, annuals, perennials and biennials, plus herbs and ornamental grasses.

Different plants have different ways of storing their seeds. They can come in pods, berries and capsules like poppies. Many trees produce winged seeds. If you want to collect them from a plant, remember not to deadhead it.

The most important thing is to collect when they are ripe. There is no set time - the plant will give them up when it's ready. Seedheads will often change colour, from green to brown, red or black.

They may also change colour. They will go from green or white to a brown or black colour, indicating that they are ready. Flower heads will start to fall apart when the seeds are ripe.

You need to catch them after they have ripened, but before they disperse them. Keep checking on them daily.

How to collect seeds

Here's my failsafe way to collect seeds. You will need plenty of plastic freezer bags, which keep them dry and uncontaminated.

Choose a dry day. Place the bag over the pod or flower head to make sure they don't fall all over the ground, and cut it into the bag. Collect as many as possible.

Take the bags indoors and gently tip them out over some spread out newspaper. Dry the seeds for a few days in an airing cupboard or warm, dry room.

The poppies should release the seeds, but if not you can gently break open seedheads or shake the seeds out.

Berries should be put in a fine sieve and mashed. Wash away the pulp with cold water and leave the seeds to dry for a few days.

If there is surrounding material (chaff) on any of your seeds, make sure to clean it off. Chaff can harbour diseases and lead to damping off and make them unviable.

How to store the seeds

Some seeds, such as hellebore, should be sown immediately after collection. But most can be stored until spring.

Store them in a dry, airtight container. Paper bags are a good option, but I use old Tic Tac boxes. They are small, handy and sealable. Make sure to label all your containers so you know what's in them!

You can also add a dehumidifier to stop seeds deteriorating. Silica gel is a good choice. Then store in a cool place - a fridge is ideal. Kept dry at around 5C is ideal, and they will last for years in this environment.

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How to: collect seeds from your garden and the wild

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Take advantage of nature's offer and get new plants for free - harvest seeds from your own garden or local area. Here is the failsafe way to collect seeds.

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How to wrap cook in the wilderness Ximena+Amalie

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How to wrap cook in the wilderness Ximena+Amalie

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First thing you want to do while wrap cooking is collect a few large leaves and make sure they're sanitized. Next you want to wrap your meal in them then place it on top of hot rocks, after you've placed the wrapped food cover in hot rocks again.

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Do you love camping trips, but at the same time you do not want to eat canned and dry food for a couple of days straight?

How many times you wanted to cook a fresh and juicy meal, but you don't have a stove, pan or electricity in the middle of the woods? So why don't you just find out how our ancestors used to cook before electricity, just using fire and the goods resources provided by nature.

Knowing how to set up your fire area for cooking can transform your outdoor experience.

1. Cook in a fire pit

One of the easiest ways to cook outdoors is by clearing an area of ground so that you can set up a fire on top of it and then suspend pots or food over the fire, if you need to protect the fire from the wind or you need help to enclose the fire so it does not spread you can use dry stones around the edge, this can also be useful for putting pots and pans on so they stay clean.

Coals can be used for cooking and this setup is good for groups cooking at the same time.

2. Spit-roasting on a stick

If you want to eat a freshly cooked chicken or fish, but don't have a spit-roasting cooker, the easiest way to cook it would be just by using a stick and set up a fire. Food has been cooked this way for thousands of years.

Get a thick stick, one that would support the weight of the meal, assemble your food on it, and keep rotating it above the heat until it's cooked. You will probably have to secure the food on the stick with wire or natural twine, or it will twist on the stick. Alternatively, you can skewer it through at a right angle with smaller sticks.

Make sure that the flames do not scorch the food, cooking this way over hot coals is best.

3. Cook on a plank

This is a very easy and somewhat exotic way of cooking a meal. Just set up a fire, and wait until it burns out so that you have hot coals in your pit.

Find a piece of wood with a flat face, clean it, and put your piece of fish or meat on it, you can fix the food with small wooden wedges and then position the food on the plank so that it is facing the heat, just reposition as needed so that the food cooks evenly.

4. Wrapped cooking

Find yourself few big leafs (nonpoisonous), clean them up, and wrap your meal in them, place the wrapped food in a pit with hot coal and cover it with more hot coal. In just a few easy steps you could have a hot, delicious meal. This is good for foods that do not need to cook for a long time, such as fish.

5. Cook on a stone

This is easy but it can be a messy way of cooking. Place a big flat rock above a fire and support it with other stones, creating a table-like shape. Wait until the stone heats and then put your meal directly on top of it. The thinner the stone is, the better. Meat is good cooked this way

6. Oven in nature

If you want your meal to be evenly cooked, you could set up a handmade natural oven. Just dig a hole in a shape of a rectangle, and place stones on the bottom of it and its side walls. Set a fire in the hole and wait until it burns out so that the stones get really hot so that you can place your meal inside and cook it. If you can fashion a lid or cover the pit in some way you can contain the heat.

7. Cook on a stick

Of course one of the easiest ways to cook a quick meal in nature is by using a stick and fire. Just set up a fire, place your food on a small stick and cook it until it's done, simple. Although you do need to use smaller pieces of food to cook this way. It's also a great way of cooking damper bread.

So now you have some good ideas for the next time you head out for few days in the wilderness, but don't forget to bring some extra food, just in case.

If you have any comments then please drop us a message on our Outdoor Revival Facebook page

If you have a good story to tell or blog let us know about it on our FB page, we're also happy for article or review submissions, we'd love to hear from you.

We live in a beautiful world, get out there and enjoy it.

Outdoor Revival - Reconnecting us all with the Outdoor

tomi-stojanovik is one of the authors writing for Outdoor Revival

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7 Ways Of Cooking Your Food In Nature - Outdoor Revival

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Do you love camping trips, but at the same time you do not want to eat canned and dry food for a couple of days straight? How many times you wanted to

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One of the best strategies for building a really sturdy wall in nature is to fit a stick in between other sticks. To put this in perspective, imagine you have 3 sticks standing up from the ground. With the 4th stick, you put it in front of the 1st stick, then behind the 2nd stick, and finally, you put it in front of the 3rd stick.

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With this website you can learn how to make a shelter out of logs, dry leaves, and dead grass for the cold.

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This story was originally featured on Outdoor Life.
In a winter wilderness emergency, there's no question that finding or building shelter is going to be your top priority (unless someone in your party requires urgent first aid). In the bone-aching cold, hypothermia can begin to take hold within minutes, and in severe weather conditions, the cold can be fatal within a few hours if there isn't some type of shelter defense from the elements. So when you need to protect yourself from the elements, find yourself wet or poorly dressed in the winter wilds, or you're just stuck somewhere unexpectedly for the night, you need to be able to build a shelter using accessible materials and the landscape. Thankfully, there are a number of survival shelter designs you can build with a few tools (or none) on the frozen winter landscape. Here's a quick look at just a few.

An insulated tree well

In woodlands with deep snow, finding shelter can be as easy as locating a naturally occurring tree well. These are gaps or swaths of ground with a lower density of snow under evergreen trees. When the snow collects on the tree boughs (rather than under the tree), it creates a natural pit, which can be easily adapted into a shelter. If possible, dig down to the bare ground and push the snow to create a small wall around the well to block wind. Since a fire would melt the snow covered boughs overhead, your best bet for warmth is packing the well with insulating materials. If you can manage to find a few rocks in the snow, use a fire to warm them and place them in your bedding for heat.

A snow trench

If the snow is solid enough to cut into slabs, you can use a saw to cut blocks out to form a trench and position the blocks like a ceiling to cover it. In the event the snow won't hold together to build solid building blocks or you are caught without tools, you can still dig out a trench and cover it with a flat roof of poles, tree boughs, and an insulating layer of snow. Either way, the snow trench works well in flat areas and is ideal for a quick one- or two-person snow shelter.

A snow cave

A snow cave may be the only shelter option in areas with deep snow. This is typically the most dangerous shelter to create, as the inhabitants could suffer from low oxygen or even be buried alive if the ceiling collapses. That's why snow selection is so critical. Select a deep, solid snow bank or drift. Dig into the side of it and form a tunnel into a low spot. This is the "cold well," which is a place where the coldest air can fall and collect. Then dig up and over creating a shelf or platform to sleep on. This should be the highest part of the shelter. Dig a small hole about 6 inches in diameter somewhere in the roof for ventilation, especially if you plan on blocking the entrance with a doorway like a backpack or big chunk of snow.

An igloo

The most impressive winter shelter is the igloo. This spiraling dome of artfully carved blocks is an engineering masterpiece. When properly built with the right quality of snow (yes, there are different types and qualities of snow), temperatures inside can climb above freezing from mere body heat, even when the world outside is far below freezing. Start with a triangle-shaped block, then move to trapezoidal blocks, all with tapered edges. The final block is the "keystone" piece in the center of the ceiling. An amateur can make a tolerable igloo if they are good with their hands and have a sense of geometry, but they'll never make an igloo like one made by someone who practices these skills regularly. Like other snow shelters, the igloo works best if it includes a cold well, a door, ventilation holes, and a sleeping platform.

A quinzhee

The quinzhee is a dome-shaped snow shelter, similar in shape to an igloo, but much easier to construct. Snow must be just right to build an igloo, while you can pack together most types of snow for a quinzhee. To build one, start by piling up some moveable gear, like backpacks, under a tarp. Then pile snow over the tarp and gear. Pack the snow down until it's about 2 feet thick all the way around. Next, insert three- or four-dozen 12-inch-long sticks around the dome. Burrow into the side of the quinzhee and retrieve the tarp and gear. Excavate snow inside the mound until you reach the base of every stick. This will ensure the dome has a uniform thickness. Last, make a fist sized ventilation hole in the roof of the quinzhee.

Add a bough bed

While this is not a shelter by itself, a thick bough bed makes an outstanding addition to any type of shelter large enough to accommodate it. To make a bough bed, you can use leaves, grass, evergreen boughs, or other plant material for insulation. Cedar and pine boughs are common enough in many places, but fir boughs make the softest bed. Spruce can be the least-comfortable evergreen bough, since the needles are so sharp. Start building by creating a bed frame. Roll up two logs longer than you are tall, side-by-side, about 3 feet apart. Fill the void between the logs by laying down the boughs, several at a time. Dead, dry leaves or dead grasses can be a great addition if you have them. In snowy conditions, you'll just have to work with boughs. Make the mattress so thick that you are still at least 6 inches from the frozen ground or snow surface when lying down. Keep adding armloads of boughs or other vegetation if the mattress compresses too much or isn't warm enough.

A lean-to

One of the simplest and most frequently constructed primitive shelters is the lean-to. You can set one up in less than an hour with a variety of materials and the basic, one-sided design will give you a haven from some of the wind and rain the wilderness might throw at you. Securely support a long, stout pole between two trees. Cover one side with poles, brush, or branches. Then heap leaves, grasses, palm fronds, or any other vegetation that is available on top. The flaws of this shelter are the fact that it doesn't hold in any heat, and if the wind or rain changes direction, you'll no longer be sheltered. Think of it as a house with only one wall and half of a roof. It offers little in the way of insulation; and merely deflects wind and reflects the heat of the nearby fire. When the fire goes out, the warmth goes too. But the advantage to this type of shelter is you can build it fast.

A leaf hut

The leaf hut is a two-sided, wedge-shaped lean-to, with much better weatherproofing and insulating qualities. To build one, select a long, sturdy pole 9 to 12 feet long. Prop it up in the fork of a tree or set it on a rock, stump or two forked prop sticks. Then cover the sides of the pole with tree branches to act as ribs. Place the branches close together at an angle along both sides of the ridge pole so your hut covering won't fall through. Next, pile vegetation over the framework. You can use anything that traps air like leaves, grass, ferns, moss, pine needles, brush and tree boughs, and the material can be wet. About 2 to 3 feet of vegetation covering all sides of the shelter is enough to keep you dry inside. Finally, fill the inside of the hut with a thick pile of vegetation for your bedding.

Try a wickiup

The wickiup is a bit like a small tipi made from poles, brush, and vegetation. This shelter style is used around the globe, but has been most frequently documented in the American Southwest. Thick brush, grass, and leaf coverings along with a steep roof can make this shelter suitable for climates with occasional rain. A broader, stockier structure covered with light brush can give you a shady, ventilated shelter for hot, dry climates. Collect several dozen poles, some with forks at the top. Lock a few of these forks together to build a freestanding tripod. Then prop the other poles around the peak to create a cone-shaped tipi frame. Finish with the vegetation layer. If the wickiup is large enough, and the vegetation covering the roof is wet or green material, it may be safe enough to build a tiny fire inside this type of shelter.

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Winter survival shelters you should know how to build

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When you find yourself wet or poorly dressed in the winter wilds, you need to be able to build a shelter using accessible materials and the landscape.

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These berries grow everywhere around San Antonio. Although they are poisonous to eat straight off of the branch, you can make a tea with them to heal a rash or anything of that catagory.

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This video covers how to camouflage your house in the woods so that animals don't come snooping around and so enemies don't attack you.

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Bushcraft skill - DIY tree Shelter, Camouflage with Leaves to Avoid Wild Animals / OFF GRI...

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10 ways to cook out in the wild without any of the basic tools

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If you're in a survival scenario but don't have any cooking implements, don't worry. There are many ways to cook without cooking gear.

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When you use rocks to collect water you can use any type of and carve it into a curved shape/bowl and put it out on the opening

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Making a Stone Bowl Using Primitive Tools

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How to make a shelter with mud. (Charley & Olivia)

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How to make a shelter with mud. (Charley & Olivia)

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First you need to add mud,soil,grass ect to the walls and roof.Then you should add another layer of sticks to secure the mud.You also have to make sure it isn't to heavy or it will cave in.

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Survival Skills: How to Build a Waterproof Shelter

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One of the most important survival skills to have is the ability to build not just any shelter, but a waterproof one for the best protection outdoors.

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Make sure the people feel like the rules are reasonable. Keep the rules simple, and clearly written. Communite good with the people.

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The most important factors in association policy making, regardless of the concern at hand, are clarity and sensibility around community rules. The board must be clear - and united - on the policy being created and then must clearly communicate that policy to all residents. Whether you live in a community nestled in the beautiful valley near Burnsville or one in lovely Mooresville, the basic steps to creating good policy and enforcing it successfully are the same.

It's vital that everyone in the community association, including board members, residents and the management team, understand who has ownership of which part of the policy-making process: creation, enforcement and compliance. If this isn't clearly communicated, homeowners may not understand who is responsible for creating the policy and establishing the consequences for violating it, versus issuing a violation notice for breaking it.

This video highlights some key roles and responsibilities of board members that can guide you to help you create effective community rules.

The community association board, duly elected by homeowners and residents, is always responsible for establishing all new policy in the community. That board may decide to ask for assistance from their knowledgeable community association management company when it comes time to consider writing new policy. The community association management company can recommend fair and effective policies that will help the board achieve its goals and build an appealing community. The management company and its staff are then responsible to implement the policies and enforce violations with proper procedure and documentation.

How to Create Good Community Roles for Your HOA

1. Use common sense.

Avoid political or personal pressure by taking a moment to reassess the need for a new policy before any time is invested in it. Design new policies and rules with a specific outcome or goal. If a proposed rule doesn't achieve something concrete, take a second look at why it's being brought up for consideration. Always balance protecting resident safety and well-being, as well as property values, with homeowner freedom. If the rule creates a bigger problem than already existed, it's not a good rule. If a rule isn't necessary, don't make it.

Be aware of local laws and ordinances and when appropriate, mirror them when making policy. Doing so can give the policy more validity and another avenue of enforcement. All new policies should be reviewed by your association's attorney to ensure that they don't conflict with existing laws or association rules.

When drafting rules, keep penalties for violating them proportional to the policy being violated. Consider a grace period when a rule is first implemented. A progressive system of a friendly reminder, followed by a written warning, then an official violation notice and penalty is one way to go.

2. Communicate often and clearly.

Transparency in policy-making is as important as financial transparency for an association board. Seek consensus and buy in from residents before adding a new policy to the rules. Ask for input from residents and take the community's temperature on the issue. Identify possible areas of pushback and offer solutions to them. Once consensus has been built and the policy has been created, the rule may need to be voted on and added to the bylaws and/or the association's governing documents. This isn't always the case, so check your governing documents for guidance or ask your association's legal counsel.

In most cases, your community's rules aren't set in stone. The board often has the authority to adopt new rules for the community. However, if these rules significantly alter the governing documents, then a vote by all members of the association is typically required. In general, homeowners have a lot of influence on how their community operates. If you aren't happy with a particular rule, then use the proper channels to change your HOA's rules. Attending your board meetings and working with your board is the best way to monitor the rules in your community.

After the community rules have been finalized, communicate them to residents and homeowners via email, posted signs, social media, community newsletters and other available means. People cannot be held to a standard they don't know about. Make sure that residents have plenty of time to comply before violations are issued. A quality community management company, such as FirstService Residential, will have tools available assist with these important resident communications.

For some helpful hits on clear and effective communication that can further enchance your association's community rules, check out this article.

3. Keep community rules and language simple.

Rules should be written in clear, simple language that doesn't require a dictionary to understand. Following rules shouldn't be difficult and they should never result in a standard that homeowners have difficulty achieving. The penalties for breaking a rule should be expressed as clearly as the rule itself.

Every community is unique. You'll need to check with your HOA board and governing documents for details for your HOA's specific rules. However, there are some guidelines that are generally standard in most communities, including:

Architectural controls

Lawn and holiday decoration restrictions

Home maintenance standards

Noise complaint policies

Home occupancy limits

Parking rules and guidelines

Pet size and quantity limits

Short-term rental restrictions

Trash and recycling rules

4. Practice moderation.

The bigger the problem being addressed, the greater the temptation is to write an overly strict rule in response. That usually causes more trouble in the long run. Pause for a moment before responding to a problem via a new policy. Maintain perspective, don't over-penalize minor infractions (especially for first-time offenders) and be open to reasonable exceptions.

5. Review community rules regularly.

It's important to make sure that all rules and policies are relevant. Conduct an annual review of the governing documents and assess whether a rule is still needed. Does a rule made five years ago still make sense? Is it still applicable? Check that no new legislation has been passed that may make a rule obsolete. Eliminate or update rules and policies as needed.

Learn more about how our team supports the communities we serve here.

6. Be careful of anonymous complaints.

People who make credible complaints are willing to stand by their words. You can't, as a board member, know if an anonymous complaint is justified or malicious in motivation or just idle gossip. Investigate before taking any action on it, as you should with any complaint.

7. Be fair when enforcing community rules.

If residents feel like they won't be treated reasonably and consistently, they have very little motivation to comply with a policy. The rules must be applied everyone consistently and must be enforced swiftly and evenly. Your professional community management company is there to help enforce compliance in the right way and follow up on a timely basis as needed.

Provide the resident who has committed a violation with proper written notice of that violation, along with a clearly detailed description of the consequences, according to the process set forth in the association's governing documents. The resident must have an opportunity to respond if they want to, following the same established process. Remember that they have a right to legal counsel if they feel they are being treated unreasonably.

If your association hasn't been enforcing policies at all, it's not too late! Revitalizing your community rules and enforcement isn't difficult. Start by sending a notice to residents, after checking with your legal counsel. Let all residents know that the rules will be enforced beginning on a specific date. Include a reminder of the specific policies that will be enforced and the steps of the violation process.

While the rules and regulations of an HOA are legally binding for association members, they generally aren't enforceable by law enforcement. Instead, violations of association guidelines are considered a civil matter between the HOA and offending member. As such, any dispute that can't be resolved at the community level will need to be handled by mediation or in civil court. The exception to this is when your HOA's rules overlap other laws. These laws could include parking violations for public streets or county noise restrictions that may mirror your HOA rules.

8. Know that there will be exceptions.

Not every rule can work for every situation and every single resident. Allow common sense and compassion to come into play when warranted. Leave room for personal judgment when reasonable, and allow for leniency if appropriate.

HOA rules are set by their governing documents and all applicable local, state, and federal laws. You can request to view your governing documents to learn more. This collection of documents will include information about your specific rules, restrictions, and other guidelines. Governing documents include CC&Rs, Bylaws, Articles of Incorporation, and other rules and regulations made by the community.

Following these eight simple rules will help when creating, implementing and enforcing new policy in your association. To find out how a professional management team and its communication tools can assist your association, contact FirstService Residential, North Carolina's leading community association management company.

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What Are Some Examples of Good Community Rules

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Creating clear community rules is important for future success. Read this article for examples of how to create community association rules.

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1.Set a time in the week to observe food supply and decide the amount of time needed to make them.

2.After the first few weeks of this write down favorites and add them into the plan.

3.Make in bulk and store them

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How to make a weekly meal plan

Planning can really help you have healthy meals and snacks no matter how busy things get.

Planning can help you have healthy meals and snacks no matter how busy things get. Having a meal plan can save time, money and reduce food waste. Just remember to stick to your shopping list.

Here are six steps to making a meal plan:

1. Give yourself time to plan

Set aside time each week to make a meal plan. Think about:

How many meals you need to prepare for the week

When you need to make quick meals or prepare them in advance

2. Check what you have

Check what ingredients you already have in your cupboard, fridge or freezer. Check the 'use-by' dates of foods to see what you need to use up first, start by planning your meals around this. Read more shopping tips here

The way you store food has a big impact on how long it lasts. Follow these tips:

Check the label for advice on how to store food.

Put new items to the back, and older items to the front of the fridge/cupboard.

Label all foods with the name and the date before freezing so they can be easily identified.

Read more food storage tips here.
3. Include some of your favourite meals

Make a go-to list of meals that you enjoy

Introduce new recipes when you have extra time

Think about having a themed night, like Meatless Monday for example.

4. Use up your leftovers

5. Cook in bulk

Cook extra and refrigerate or freeze the leftovers. Pies, curries, stews and casseroles all freeze well.

If you are using the oven, think about what else you can cook at the same time. If you are doing a casserole, you could cook some chicken breasts to go in sandwiches.

6. Make your ingredients work

Choose recipes that use the same key ingredients such as roast chicken, chicken stir fry and chicken sandwiches

Pick 2-3 main vegetables and add them to a meat, pasta or fish dish. For example, peppers, broccoli and sweetcorn can be added to a beef stir-fry but can also be used to make a vegetable pasta bake or served with meat or fish.

New to meal planning? Here's a three-week plan to get you started.

Three-week meal plan

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How to make a meal plan to help you get the best of nutrition with the minimum of fuss. To get you started we have some meal suggestions for the family for each day of the week.

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Jail system   by    VINCENTE AND GRIFFIN

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Jail system   by    VINCENTE AND GRIFFIN

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it requires big and heavy sticks so there is no way that the inmate can escape. to make sure of this there will be bodygaurds for extra protection/ less people around the jail. We also need to make it in a rurul area because we dont need any comotion around the inmate.

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cotton wood trees grow very fast so they are very good to extract water from. Another tree that is good is a willow because they love water and they absorb a lot of it through there growing cycle.

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Finding yourself stranded in the wilderness without food or water is an unlikely, albeit, possible scenario. Being prepared for these types of scenarios is what separates those who survive from those who expire.

While food is important, you can live without it for weeks, but water is a non-negotiable. Without water, you can't live longer than a few days.

One of the most important things you can learn is how to extract water from the environment in the wild. One of the issues people often face is that they can't find a safe and clean source of water in the wilderness.

Thankfully, plants and trees are great sources of water if you know how to work with them. The water extracted from plants is usually clean and safe to drink.

Depending on the plant, you can extract enough water to last you throughout any emergency scenario.

In this post, I will teach you how to identify the best plants for water extraction and a few simple methods to do it with minimal equipment.

Extracting Water Through Condensation

Plants and trees transpire water, which means they release water as vapor from their leaves throughout the day. You can take advantage of that by collecting this water through condensation.

All you need to extract water from plants through condensation is a clear plastic bag, a small rock, and something to tie the bag around the plant foliage.

The idea here is to find a clean branch with large leaves that gets a lot of sunlight.

Then place your small rock into the plastic bag (to weigh it down) and place the bag around the branch, tying it up to the branch at the top.

The rock is not required, but it helps add a downward slope to the bag where the water can gather.

You'll have to leave the bag on the branch for 4-5 hours to get a decent amount of water. The hotter it is and the more sunlight your branch is getting - the quicker the water will accumulate.

The best part about this method is that it doesn't harm the plants at all - you are simply capturing the water that the plants are releasing anyways.

You can do this process with any plant, just make sure that it's not poisonous. That being said, here are a few common plats that produce water really well using this method:

Cottonwood

Cottonwood trees are very common in the wild - they grow in just about every region of the country.

They are some of the fastest-growing trees, so they pull a lot of water.

This means they're great for extracting water through the condensation method.

Cottonwood branches are higher up than those of the willow, so you might need to do a little bit of climbing to find a suitable leafy branch for your water collection.

Berry Shrubs

Berry shrubs are great for extracting water. If your landscape has any wild blueberries, barberries, or junipers - you're in luck.

These little shrubs transpire a lot of water, and as a bonus, they can provide you some sustenance during the fruiting season.

A word of caution, however: if you're eating wild berries, make sure you are certain of what species they are, as some can be poisonous.

Willow

Willow trees love water and absorb a lot of it through their growth cycle.

If there is no water in sight, you can be sure that the willow is pulling it deep from under the earth's surface.

Willow trees make great plants for water extraction.

They're easy to recognize and their leaves reach low. Willows can produce 3L of water per hour from the whole tree, which means you can get a decent cup of water from a single branch after just a few hours.

The water collected from willow trees is clean and safe to drink, but make sure you shake off any insects or debris off the leaves before you put your bag around them.

Extracting Water Through Tapping

Tapping a tree is the process of extracting the watery sap from its trunk by creating a 2-inch deep hole in the tree and placing a spile into the hole. You'll need a container to catch the sap as it begins to run down the spile. If you've ever made your own maple syrup, you already know how it's done.

And you know that when the maple sap first comes out of the tree, it's very watery and clear.

Although the water is safe and clean, expect it to have a slightly sweet flavor and consider that a gift from the tree to you. That sweetness is nutrition that will help you survive.

Many different trees can be tapped for water. Here are some of the best trees for tapping when you need to quench your thirst:

Maple

One of the best-known trees for tapping is, of course, the maple tree.

There are hundreds of different maple varieties, and you can probably find one in the wild wherever you live.

They are easy to identify due to the shape of their leaves.

During the late winter and early spring, maples are pumping a lot of water through their trunks, so you can get a decent amount of sap from tapping them.

Birch

Birch is another common tree that can be found all throughout the Northern Hemisphere. They are easy to recognize thanks to their characteristic bark marked with horizontal white, silver, or yellow lenticels.

Birch trees are great for tapping in the spring. They produce a lot of water and their sap has a mildly sweet flavor.

Walnut

If you find a walnut tree in the wild, it can be a great source of both water and nutrition.

Walnut trees can be tapped from late fall to spring. If you're lucky, you can also gather some fallen walnuts off the ground and cook them over a fire for a delicious meal.

Similarly to maple, walnut trees produce a watery sap that has a sweet flavor that is oftentimes boiled down to a syrup. Drinking the sap as-is can provide you with plenty of hydration to keep you alive.

Hickory

Much like the walnut trees, hickory trees can provide you with edible nuts as well as water. Hickory trees are easy to recognize by their bark - it's ridged, grayish in color, and very easy to peel.

Hickory trees produce a lot of water through tapping, and it's best to tap them in the late winter.

Wild Grapevine

Wild grapevine is a plant that doesn't really need to get tapped to access its water, but the process is similar. It doesn't have a single, vertical trunk like regular trees.

It's a vine - it snakes and envelopes other trees. Make sure you can identify wild grapevine and don't attempt to drink sap from any vines you're not sure about (many of them are poisonous!).

This plant can be found growing along roadsides, fences, vacant urban lots, river banks, and in deep forests.

To "tap" the grapevine, you only need a knife and a container to catch the water. Find a low-hanging bend in the vine - this is where most of the water inside the plant is will run to - and cut a deep notch into it until you see the sap dripping.

Place your container under the notch and prepare to receive a lot of water. You can fill a small canteen in about an hour, making this plant one of the best when you need to get water quickly. The sap of a wild grapevine tastes very much like regular water, and it'll quench your thirst fast.

There are many ways you can extract water from plants in the wilderness. Every plant technically has water inside it, it's just a matter of finding the plants that can give you a lot of water quickly, and won't poison you in the process.

The most important skill you can develop is recognizing safe plants from poisonous plants. Once you know that, you can attempt the condensation or the tapping method on any of the "safe" plants to extract water long enough to survive on your own.
You may also like: 5 Best Guns to Have Against Looting Rioters

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8 Plants You Can Extract Water From (In The Wilderness)

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People underestimate how much water they need to survive. One of the most important things you can learn is how to extract water from plants.

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How to Cook Food Over a Campfire | Pro Campfire Cooking Tips

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This shows some tips and tricks to safely cook over an open fire.

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Campfire Cooking Tips and Tricks

How to cook over a campfire
Open-fire cookware for campfire cooking
How to build the perfect campfire
Campfire cooking tips
Alternative options for cooking while camping

One of the best parts of a camping trip is gathering around a fire with family and friends to enjoy a campfire-cooked meal. What could be better than the sound of crackling wood and the aroma of dinner in the works?

Many people have fond memories of gooey toasted marshmallows melting in their mouth after a day of hiking, or their mom and dad serving up steaming fresh fish they caught earlier that day. Outdoor campfire cooking makes every camping trip special. Best of all, it is as easy as hobo pie.

Can You Cook on a Fire Pit?

The simple answer is, yes! Humans have been cooking in fire pits for more than a million years. It feels natural to cook and eat around the fire, and anyone can do it. If you've never cooked over a fire before or are looking for some hints, keep reading. Here is everything you need to know to get cooking over a campfire the right way. From campfire cookware to cooking with a fire pit tips, you will be ready to put on your apron or cowboy hat and whip up a tasty meal on your next camping trip.

How to Cook Over a Campfire

Although s'mores and hot dogs probably come to mind when you think of campfire food, you can cook just about anything over a campfire with the right tools. Keep the following points in mind:

Make sure you are building a fire in a safe place.

Use the right equipment and method for the food you wish to cook.

Never use plastic in campfire cooking, as plastic melts.

As you will soon see, some cooking tools make campfire cooking a cinch, while others are a little more involved. It all comes down to the time and effort you want to put into meal creation, and how long you plan to camp. Preparation is key.

Open-Fire Cookware

When you picture cowboy campfire cooking equipment, you probably do not envision a cowboy stirring stew in a plastic bucket.

Cast-iron cooking equipment is a must-have for a camping trip. Wrought iron uses a different manufacturing method than cast iron, and it is unlikely you will see wrought-iron campfire cooking equipment at the campground. Titanium, steel and aluminum are also common materials in camping cookware.

The first piece of open-fire cookware you will need is the right cooking surface.

1. Cooking Surfaces

Here are a few potential cooking surfaces to get you started:

Grill grate: A grill grate is a simple and useful tool for cooking over an open fire. When grilling over a firepit, grill grate creates a safe, stable surface for cooking food directly or placing a pan or Dutch oven on top of it. An over-the-fire camping grill looks like a small metal table with a design that sits over a fire. Just make sure not to cook bacon or anything that produces a lot of fat drippings directly on the grill, as that could spark too many flames. A lot of fun, scrumptious recipes like Campfire Banana Boats are easy to throw together and toss on a grill.

Rotisserie grill and spit: Does the thought of a campfire-roasted chicken get your mouth watering? If so, you might want to look into purchasing a rotisserie grill and spit. A rotisserie grill-and-spit combo sits over the fire like a grill grate so you can cook items like corn on the cob or potatoes on the grill. The spit is above the grill, so you can cook a rotisserie chicken at the same time.

Dutch oven stand: A Dutch oven stand gets your cookware off the ground, but keeps it close enough to the heat source for cooking.

Cast-iron cooking tripod: Want to feel like you are in the Old West? You might bring a Dutch oven tripod on your next camping trip. Instead of placing your Dutch oven on a stand or grill, a tripod allows you to hang the oven over the fire, keeping it off the ground and making you feel like a true member of the Wild West.

2. Pots and Pans

Next, you will need your pots and pans. Plan your meals ahead of time, so you do not pack too much or too little and can figure out exactly what you need.

Here are a few options:

Cast iron grill and griddle: A cast iron grill and griddle is perfect for whipping up pancakes and eggs in the morning, or grilling up some steaks for a hearty meal later on. Want something sweet? Grill pineapple slices until they caramelize.

Cast-iron Dutch oven: A Dutch oven comes in handy for all kinds of recipes. You can cook satisfying stews, belly-warming soups, classic baked beans, boil water for pasta and even bake bread over your campfire with a Dutch oven. Serve your Dutch oven masterpiece with cornbread and everyone will be happy.

Skillet: Choose a cast-iron or aluminum skillet to cook up a variety of scrumptious meals. Fry up the catch of the day or make a skillet dessert like blueberry cobbler. Just consider the depth and size of skillet you will need to match your recipe and feed your group.

3. Utensils

Once you have your basic cookware, you will need campfire utensils to keep your food on the path to success and your hands safe. Here are recommended utensils for flipping, turning, stirring and serving your campfire delicacies:

Three-in-one folding grill tool: The last thing campers want is to haul more gear than they need. A three-in-one folding grill tool takes up little space, but provides the utensils you need - such as a grilling spatula, grilling fork and knife - all in one simple folding piece.

Steel tongs: Every campground chef needs a sturdy pair of stainless steel tongs to get a good grip when it is time to turn or remove grill items and to protect their hands from getting burned. Tongs come in different lengths, so whether you choose nine-inch or 16-inch tongs depends on your setup and what feels comfortable for you.

Grill utensil set: You may want to invest in a compact, easy-to-transport grill set so you can have all the tools you need in one neat case, and be ready to grill up whatever you want whenever you want. Choose a grill set that comes with the essentials, such as a spatula, tongs, basting brush and skewers. You could buy each utensil separately, but why go through the trouble when you can have it all in one tidy package?

Long-handled spoon: You will need a long spoon to stir your soups, stews or oatmeal, and there are plenty of safe options to use. You can use a wooden, stainless steel or aluminum spoon to stir your meals.

4. Accessories

Lastly, you will want to bring a few campfire cooking accessories.

Steel log grabber: You do not want to turn logs or adjust coals with your hands or feet. Instead, make sure to bring a heavy-duty steel log grabber or fireplace poker to keep you safe from the heat.

Grill gloves: Cooking over an open fire can be tough on the hands, no matter what equipment you have. That is why you want to use a pair of heat-resistant grill gloves so you can happily cook away while protecting your skin from the flames. Wear gloves that are flexible and allow you to get a good grip on utensils and cookware.

Stainless steel wire grill brush: Keep your grill clean and ready to go with a wire grill brush. Use the brush to remove food and grease.

Digital meat thermometer: Take guessing out of the process and use a digital thermometer to determine if you have properly cooked your meat. A safe cooking temperature for poultry is 165 degrees, while it is 145 degrees for other whole cuts of meat and 160 degrees for ground meat.
Dutch oven lid lifter: A cast-iron Dutch oven lid lifter lets you easily remove the lid and the Dutch oven.

Lid stand: You will need a place to put the lid to your Dutch oven other than the ground while you stir food. A Dutch oven lid stand is an easy solution.

Pie iron: A pie iron is a cast-iron pan with a long handle. You can easily make sandwiches, eggs, mini pies and pizzas by holding the pie iron over the flame. These pies are also sometimes referred to as pudgie pies, mountain pies or hobo pies.

Grill basket: What could be more fun and simple than tossing food inside of a metal basket and cooking it over a fire until it is tender and tasty? Fill a grill basket with fresh fish brushed with olive oil and dusted with chili powder, cumin, salt and fresh lime juice, and get ready to make unforgettable campfire grilled fish tacos!

Steel skewers: A quality set of steel skewers is a must-have for campfire snacks on a whim. Want a twist on the classic s'more? Instead of using the traditional chocolate bar, enjoy a peanut butter cup or peppermint patty s'more instead.

As you can see, campfire food is not just about roasting hot dogs on a stick, although that is undoubtedly part of the fun. Do not be afraid to get creative, try new ideas and enjoy delicious flame-cooked meals you and your camping companions will love.

How to Build the Perfect Cooking Camping Fire

Ready to get cooking? Once you have your culinary tools, it is time to build the perfect fire, which involves burning wood until it turns into coals for even cooking. Here are factors to consider before you get started.

1. Wood: First, you will need dry, seasoned wood. Seasoned wood means all moisture has been removed from the wood, making it perfect for clean-burning firewood. You can also choose oak or mesquite wood for flavor.

2. Location: Next, you will need to pick a safe place to build your fire. Try to use pre-built fire pits if you can. If none are available, choose a spot that is free of grass, tree roots, loose dirt and any other debris. Make sure there is nothing overhead, like tree branches flames could reach. A general rule is to have three times the height of the fire in clear overhead space and you should always be at least 10 feet away from any tents or other structures.

3. Wind: If the wind is moderate or strong, you might have to save campfire cooking for another day, because wind could cause runaway sparks or keep you from lighting your fire altogether.

Once you have gathered your wood and found a location, here is what you need to do to build the fire.

Clear a space: Choose a site at least eight feet away from bushes or anything flammable. Next, form a perimeter using rocks or green logs. Green refers to wood that is fresh and still contains moisture, as opposed to dry, dead logs. Lastly, place a large rock at the rear of the firepit to act as a "chimney" and direct smoke away.

Place the kindling: Fill the area with tinder, such as crumpled newspaper. Next, place a layer of thin pieces of wood or small dead branches in a vertical layer on top of the tinder. Place another layer of branches on top of the first layer horizontally to create a checkerboard pattern. Start the fire by lighting the paper.

Add firewood: Once the kindling is aflame, place your firewood evenly over the kindling. When the flames die down, you should have white coals left. Be patient, as this could take up to 45 minutes, and you want the coals to be glowing.

Add your grill: Place your grill on the rocks or logs above the coals, and you are ready to cook either directly on the grill or in cookware on top of the grill.

Always keep a bucket of water or sand nearby to extinguish the fire. Once the flames die down, stir the ashes and pour more water or sand to cover the ashes completely.

If you are new to campfire cooking and do not feel comfortable with the above method, you can buy charcoal instead of using wood. Just choose charcoal that does not contain lighter fluid or any chemicals.

Campfire Cooking Tips

Campfire cooking is like nothing else in the world. Imagine spending a day hiking or swimming, building a fire and cooking a meal surrounded by nature. Campfire cooking with friends and family is a wonderful experience? To make the experience even better, here are some tips to keep in mind.

1. Choose the Right Cooking Method

You probably do not need to haul a heavy Dutch oven if you only plan to cook hot dogs and toast marshmallows for an afternoon picnic. In such a case, you will only need to pack skewers and fire-starting supplies. However, if you are camping for a few days and have a list of Dutch oven recipes you cannot wait to try, it is worth bringing a cast-iron pot.

2. Know Food Safety

Keep your camping trip free of illness and pay careful attention to how you store your food. Keep raw meat packed in ice right up until the moment you are ready to grill, because bacteria proliferate when food is between 40 and 140 degrees. Make sure to put leftovers away within two hours - and, in hot weather, do not leave food out longer than an hour.

Store food in airtight bags or containers and keep them in coolers. Bring one cooler for drinks and another for perishable food items, and pack the coolers full. You can use frozen gel packs, ice cubes or frozen bottles of water in the cooler. Lastly, keep hands clean with disposable wipes or eco-friendly soap.

3. Do the Prep Work at Home

It is much easier to slice and dice peppers and onions in your kitchen than it is at the campsite. Keep things simple and prepare as many ingredients as you can at home. For example, if you are excited to make campfire scrambled eggs, crack and scramble the eggs at home and store them in bottles for the trip.

When you are ready to cook, make sure all your utensils are clean and within reach. You do not want to leave your food unattended while you search for your spatula or spoon. When you plan your meals and come prepared, campfire cooking will be a stress-free experience.

4. Bigger Is Not Always Better

You might be tempted to create a fire with huge, roaring flames, but this will not do much for your baked bean recipe. Large fires burn down fast, and you do not want to use all your firewood at once. Spend your wood wisely, and you will have plenty left over for a post-dinner snack and campfire stories.

5. Start Early

Get your fire going at least an hour before cooking to allow plenty of time for flames to die down and coals to get hot. Also, keep in mind cooking on a campfire takes longer than it does in your kitchen at home. You will need to turn food every so often for even cooking, and use a thermometer to make sure you have cooked everything to safe levels.

6. Bring Aluminum Foil

Aluminum foil is a must-have for any camping trip. Aluminum foil hardly takes up any room, is inexpensive and you can toss vegetables or fish in foil packets and place them on hot coals for cooking. Best of all, aluminum foil is easy to clean up.

Other Options for Cooking While Camping

If campfire cooking is not for you, do not let it bring your spirit down. You can still enjoy a smokey meal or gooey sweet treat without the need for firewood. Here are some other campsite cooking options you can enjoy comfortably while still dining like a pioneer under the stars.

1. Portable Propane Grill

A portable propane grill is an excellent alternative to building a fire. A portable propane grill is compact, easy to transport and simple to use. All you need to do is push the ignition button - no matches or lighters required. You also get to use adjustable burners to control the heat.

2. Portable Propane Stove

A portable propane stove might be the go-to choice if you want to break out your Dutch oven or cast-iron skillet. Just like a propane grill, all you need to do is press a button to get it started. Some portable propane stoves even fold up for super-easy transporting.

3. Cabin With a Kitchen

Lastly, you could choose a Deluxe Cabin that features a kitchenette and is ready for your culinary talents. This option might be the best solution for campers who want to ensure proper food safety. Many Deluxe Cabins offer the comfort and convenience of your home kitchen. When you finish up in the kitchen, the great outdoors will still be waiting for you.

You might also use a kitchen for cooking meals and a fire pit for roasting marshmallows or other snacks. That way, you can leave the Dutch oven at home, but still get a taste of campfire cooking. When it comes to camping, the choice is always yours.

Be sure to check specific KOA campgrounds to see if this option is available, as not all campgrounds offer Deluxe Cabins with this feature.

KOA Has Options for Every Camping Chef

Whether you are an experienced chef or just starting out, there is one thing you can know for sure - everything tastes better when you are camping.

KOA recognizes each chef has a unique cooking style. For those who love cooking over the campfire, a KOA Campground makes it simple. Set up your grill grate over the fire pit, and you will be ready to go. Want to cook on your propane grill? A KOA patio is a perfect spot for grilling your specialties.

If you want a little less rustic cooking option, we can help with that too! Make your reservation today!

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How to Cook Food Over a Campfire | Pro Campfire Cooking Tips

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Many look forward to campfire-cooked meals as a part of their camping experience. Learn more about how to cook over a campfire and our top campfire cooking tips!

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Did you know the process of the USA election takes almost 2 years? Read here to learn how to hold an election quick and easy and how the USA does it!

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Learn about the presidential election process, including the Electoral College, caucuses and primaries, and the national conventions.

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1. Find an open area

2. Clear an area of shrubs and other flammable items

3. Collect rocks and sticks (preferably dry)

4. Set up rocks in a wide circle

5. Place wood in a tepee formation in the rock circle

6. light fire and let it burn the wood into charcoal

7. Set up a camping tripod with a pot/container connected to it above the charcoal

8. Fashion a lid to put on the container to collect any evaporation

9. Pour water in the pot and put the lid on

10. Light the charcoals with the camping tripod above it and let the water boil

11. Keep the fire going until the water is boiling then let the container cool and put the water in another collection spot

12. Repeat

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How to cook food in nature Amalie+Ximena

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How to cook food in nature Amalie+Ximena

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Some different ways to cook food besides a fire is to wrap cook it ill explain more about it in my next post!

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Do you love camping trips, but at the same time you do not want to eat canned and dry food for a couple of days straight?

How many times you wanted to cook a fresh and juicy meal, but you don't have a stove, pan or electricity in the middle of the woods? So why don't you just find out how our ancestors used to cook before electricity, just using fire and the goods resources provided by nature.

Knowing how to set up your fire area for cooking can transform your outdoor experience.

1. Cook in a fire pit

One of the easiest ways to cook outdoors is by clearing an area of ground so that you can set up a fire on top of it and then suspend pots or food over the fire, if you need to protect the fire from the wind or you need help to enclose the fire so it does not spread you can use dry stones around the edge, this can also be useful for putting pots and pans on so they stay clean.

Coals can be used for cooking and this setup is good for groups cooking at the same time.

2. Spit-roasting on a stick

If you want to eat a freshly cooked chicken or fish, but don't have a spit-roasting cooker, the easiest way to cook it would be just by using a stick and set up a fire. Food has been cooked this way for thousands of years.

Get a thick stick, one that would support the weight of the meal, assemble your food on it, and keep rotating it above the heat until it's cooked. You will probably have to secure the food on the stick with wire or natural twine, or it will twist on the stick. Alternatively, you can skewer it through at a right angle with smaller sticks.

Make sure that the flames do not scorch the food, cooking this way over hot coals is best.

3. Cook on a plank

This is a very easy and somewhat exotic way of cooking a meal. Just set up a fire, and wait until it burns out so that you have hot coals in your pit.

Find a piece of wood with a flat face, clean it, and put your piece of fish or meat on it, you can fix the food with small wooden wedges and then position the food on the plank so that it is facing the heat, just reposition as needed so that the food cooks evenly.

4. Wrapped cooking

Find yourself few big leafs (nonpoisonous), clean them up, and wrap your meal in them, place the wrapped food in a pit with hot coal and cover it with more hot coal. In just a few easy steps you could have a hot, delicious meal. This is good for foods that do not need to cook for a long time, such as fish.

5. Cook on a stone

This is easy but it can be a messy way of cooking. Place a big flat rock above a fire and support it with other stones, creating a table-like shape. Wait until the stone heats and then put your meal directly on top of it. The thinner the stone is, the better. Meat is good cooked this way

6. Oven in nature

If you want your meal to be evenly cooked, you could set up a handmade natural oven. Just dig a hole in a shape of a rectangle, and place stones on the bottom of it and its side walls. Set a fire in the hole and wait until it burns out so that the stones get really hot so that you can place your meal inside and cook it. If you can fashion a lid or cover the pit in some way you can contain the heat.

7. Cook on a stick

Of course one of the easiest ways to cook a quick meal in nature is by using a stick and fire. Just set up a fire, place your food on a small stick and cook it until it's done, simple. Although you do need to use smaller pieces of food to cook this way. It's also a great way of cooking damper bread.

So now you have some good ideas for the next time you head out for few days in the wilderness, but don't forget to bring some extra food, just in case.

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We live in a beautiful world, get out there and enjoy it.

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7 Ways Of Cooking Your Food In Nature - Outdoor Revival

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Do you love camping trips, but at the same time you do not want to eat canned and dry food for a couple of days straight? How many times you wanted to

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This link should show you how to make the fire more vibrant and how to send message with a single wet blanket you can use to shoot out white puffs of smoke.

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Not getting any bars on your phone? That doesn't mean you can't communicate with faraway friends. Just send them a smoke signal!

No surprise here, but you're going to need a hefty fire if you want to send a smoke signal. Build a normal campfire - start with small, easy burning tinder and gradually work your way up to heavier fuel.

As impressive as your roaring fire is, it's probably not going to make all the smoke you need. To kick up your smokiness, gather a bundle of green sticks and grass. Dump them on your fire. While your inner camper may rebel against the idea of putting green fuel on a fire, the addition will actually help you kick out thicker, whiter smoke that's easier to spot.
More Articles About Distress Signals:
Forget every negative thing you've heard about wet blankets. Douse your bedroll with water - otherwise you're going to have a roasted blanket on your hands - and toss it over your fire until no more smoke is rising from the flames.

Once the smoke has stopped rising, quickly pull the blanket off the fire. A white cloud of smoke should rise from the flames, just in time for you to throw the blanket back over the fire. The cloud will rise as a single puff, your first signal.

Once you can send smoke signals, encoding your long-distance messages isn't hard. Although there is no universal smoke-signal language, American campers have a pretty clear system of signaling. A single puff simply lets observers know where you are. A series of two signals is generally accepted as a code that all's well, while three puffs in quick succession alert viewers to an emergency.

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Not getting any bars on your phone? That doesn't mean you can't communicate with faraway friends.

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there are many colors that are vibrant in the forest in the west yellows and in the east reds oranges golds and bronzes

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Science of Fall Colors | US Forest Service

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For years, scientists have worked to understand the changes that occur in trees and shrubs during autumn. Although we don't know all the details, we do know enough to explain the basics to help you enjoy nature's multicolored display.

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Creating a great government requires lots of things like:

Responsibility

Participation

Accountability

And much More!

Read here.

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A trial for something in the forest that would be something like stealing something would last at max. 20 minutes but 10 minutes min.

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Time Out Time-out means time out from positive reinforcement (rewarding experiences). It is a procedure used to decrease undesirable behaviors. The main principle of this procedure is to ensure that the individual in time-out is not able to receive any reinforcement for a particular period of time.

How to Use Time Out Effectively

Time Out Area The time-out area should be easily accessible, and in such a location that the child can be easily monitored while in time-out. For example, if most activity takes place on the first floor of the house, the time-out area should not be on an upper floor. A chair in the corner of the dining room is an excellent spot. Placing a kitchen timer on the table is a good way to keep the child informed of how much time he has left to serve.

Amount of Time Spent in Time Out Generally, it is considered more effective to have short periods of time-out, 5 to 10 minutes, rather than to have long periods, such as half an hour to an hour. Children can fairly quickly begin to use their imagination to turn a boring activity into an interesting one. Children from 2 - 5 years old should receive a 2 to 5 minute time-out. A 6 year old child should probably receive about a 5 minute time-out while a 10 year old child would receive a 10 minute time-out. A general guideline can be: 6-8 years of age, 5 minutes; 8-10 years of age, 10 minutes; 10-14 years of age, 10 to 20 minutes. Some double the time-out period for such offenses as hitting, severe temper tantrums, and destruction of property. (Note: ADHD children may benefit from shorter times than those suggested above).

Specifying Target Behaviors It is very important the child be aware of the behaviors that are targeted for reduction. They should be very concretely defined: for example, hitting means striking someone else's with the hand or an object, or coming home late means arriving home any time after 5:00 p.m.

Procedures for Time Out

When a child is told to go into time-out, a parent should only say, "Time-out for...." and state the particular offense. There should be no further discussion.

Use a kitchen timer with a bell. Set the timer for the length of the time-out and tell the child he must stay in time-out until the bell rings.

While in time-out, the child should not be permitted to talk, and the parent should not communicate with the child in any way. The child also should not make noises in any way, such as mumbling or grumbling. He or she should not be allowed to play with any toy, to listen to the radio or stereo, watch television, or bang on the furniture. Any violation of time-out should result in automatic resetting of the clock for another time-out period.

It is important that all members of the household be acquainted with the regulations for time-out, so that they will not interfere with the child in time-out in any way, for example, by turning on the radio.

Strategies for Handling Refusal or Resistance

While time-out works well, it can only work when the child actually serves the time out. There are a number of ways to handle refusal. None of them will work of all children. You may have to experiment to determine which one will work for your child.

Tell younger children that you will count to three and if they are not in time-out when you get to three the time-out will be doubled.

Very difficult children, such as those with Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder or Oppositional Defiant Disorder, may need to be placed on a short reward program. This could include a chart with 20 to 30 squares. Each time a child does a time-out, the child gets a star or sticker on the chart. When the chart is full they can earn a special treat for learning how to do time-out.

Use response cost. Select an activity or object you can take away. Tell the child that until they do the time-out, they will not be able to use the object or engage in the activity. For instance, you can remove the cord from the TV and tell them that they may not watch TV or play a video game until they do the time-out.

Alternatives to Time Out

Children 10 and over may decide they are "too big" for time-out because "it is for babies." Here are some other negative consequences that have been successful in reducing inappropriate behavior.

Tell the child that each time he displays the inappropriate behavior, he will have to write sentences to remind him of how he should behave. For instance, every time you talk back you will have to write, " I will talk nicely and show respect to my parents." The first time this happens on a given day the sentence is written 5 times. If this does not help them remember then the next time the sentence is written 10 times. The number is increased by 5 or doubled (depending on the age of the child) each time the behavior occurs on that day. The next day the first occurrence receives 5 sentences.

Remove privileges or objects that you can control. Make a list of privileges or objects (TV, ride bike, stay up late, go outside and play, etc.). Tell the child that each time the undesirable behavior occurs, one item will be crossed of the list for that day. Each day the procedure starts over.

Advantages of Time Out

It is less aversive than other procedures, such as physical punishment.

It eliminates a lot of yelling and screaming on the part of the parents.

It increases the probability that parents are going to be consistent about what is going to be punished, when and how.

The child learns to accept his own responsibility for undesirable behavior. The parents are not punishing the child; rather the child is punishing himself. The child should be repeatedly told that the parents did not put him or her in time-out but that the child put himself in time-out.

The child more readily learns to discriminate which behaviors are acceptable and which are unacceptable.

The child begins to learn more self-control.

By keeping a written record of time-outs parents can see if the procedure is reducing the targeted behavior. Also, reward can be tied to only receiving a certain amount of time-outs in a day or a smaller time period.

Guidelines For Parental Discipline

Never disagree about discipline in front of the children.

Never give an order, request, or command without being able to enforce it at the time.

Be consistent, that is, reward or punish the same behavior in the same manner as much as possible.

Agree on what behavior is desirable and not desirable.

Agree on how to respond to undesirable behavior.

Make it as clear as possible what the child is to expect if he or she performs the undesirable behavior.

Make it very clear what the undesirable behavior is. It is not enough to say, "Your room is messy." Messy should be specified in terms of exactly what is meant: "You've left dirty clothes on the floor, dirty plates on your desk, and your bed is not made."

Once you have stated your position and the child attacks that position, do not keep defending yourself. Just restate the position once more and then stop responding to the attacks.

Remember that your behavior serves as a model for your children's behavior.

If one of you is disciplining a child and the other enters the room, that other person should not step in on the argument in progress.

Reward desirable behavior as much as possible by verbal praise, touch or something tangible such as a toy, food or money.

Both of you should have an equal share in the responsibility of discipline as much as possible.

The "3 Fs" of Positive Parenting
Discipline should be:
Firm: Consequences should be clearly stated and then adhered to when the inappropriate behavior occurs.

Fair: The punishment should fit the crime. Also in the case of recurring behavior, consequences should be stated in advance so the child knows what to expect. Harsh punishment is not necessary. Using a simple Time Out can be effective when it is used consistently every time the behavior occurs. Also, use of reward for a period of time like part of a day or a whole day when no Time Outs or maybe only one Time Out is received.

Friendly: Use a friendly but firm communication style when letting a child know they have behaved inappropriately and let them know they will receive the "agreed upon" consequence. Encourage them to try to remember what they should do instead to avoid future consequences. Work at "catching them being good" and praise them for appropriate behavior.

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Guidelines For Using Time Out With Children and Preteens - Child Development Institute

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Some ways to store food so they last longer are

-Burying the food in a container

-Smoking any meats you might have

-Sun drying meats and resources

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Modern man's primitive ancestors managed to survive in the wild for thousands of years before the advent of refrigerators, coolers, and fancy climate-controlled pantries. The secret of their success lay not in sophisticated gadgets, but in ingenuity. With a few simple tools and an intuitive understanding of the natural environment, it's possible to preserve certain food items long enough to enjoy them at your own leisure, even without the advantages of modern technology.

Add New Question

What is the best dehydrated food for hiking?

Hannah Young is an Outdoor Education Expert with more than three years of experience. She specializes in educating others on backpacking and hiking, land ethics and best practices, and wilderness Restoration. Hannah earned a BS in Earth Systems from Stanford University.

I usually recommend bringing dehydrated beans and veggies with some couscous. Making curry with the veggies is also an option - it sounds intimidating, but all you really need to bring is a little packet of curry powder.

How do I make hiking food?

Hannah Young is an Outdoor Education Expert with more than three years of experience. She specializes in educating others on backpacking and hiking, land ethics and best practices, and wilderness Restoration. Hannah earned a BS in Earth Systems from Stanford University.

Packing some dried ramen noodles is usually a great idea, since it's simple and easy to cook. But honestly, my hiking lunch generally consists of some tortillas with peanut butter, jelly or honey mixed with some nuts and seeds.

Always try to consume uncured perishable goods as soon as possible, no matter what the expiration date stamped on the packaging says.

Eating spoiled or improperly preserved food could result in nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea, as well as other, more severe illnesses such as dysentery, salmonella poisoning, or bacterial or parasitic infections.

Knowing the right way to store food in the wild isn't just a matter of health-it's a matter of safety. Coming between a hungry predator and its next meal could put you at risk of serious injury or worse.

Food

Plastic bag

Thin, breathable fabric (optional)

Rubber band, hair tie, bungee cord, rope, etc. (optional)

Hand trowel or camp spade (optional)

Food

Shovel, hand trowel, or camp spade

Hardwood

Lighter or flint and steel

Knife

Small sticks

Scrap metal sheets, drum, barrel, or other found objects (optional-for makeshift smoker)

Food

Clean water source

Sharp knife

Improvised drying rack (stump, board, shaved sticks, rope, wire hanger, etc.)

Food

Cooler

Resealable food storage containers

Insulated food bag (optional)

Food storage locker (optional)

This article was co-authored by Hannah Young. Hannah Young is an Outdoor Education Expert with more than three years of experience. She specializes in educating others on backpacking and hiking, land ethics and best practices, and wilderness Restoration. Hannah earned a BS in Earth Systems from Stanford University. This article has been viewed 21,048 times.

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4 Easy Ways to Store Food in the Wilderness - wikiHow

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Modern man's primitive ancestors managed to survive in the wild for thousands of years before the advent of refrigerators, coolers, and fancy climate-controlled pantries. The secret of their success lay not in sophisticated gadgets, but in...

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This shows a few ways to cook without electricity or basic cooking tools.

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There are three types of cooking methods: dry heat cooking, moist heat cooking, and combination cooking. Each method describes how chefs use heat to cook food and bring out unique flavors and textures. Understanding these different cooking methods can help you choose the best technique for your ingredients and create delicious meals. Additionally, knowing which cooking methods align with your menu allows you to choose the right kitchen equipment to achieve consistent, flavorful results in your cooking. Use this guide to learn more about the different types of cooking methods and the best food for each technique.

1. Moist Heat Cooking

As the name indicates, moist heat cooking relies on the presence of liquid or steam to cook foods. Use this method to make healthy dishes without any added fat or oil. It's also a great way to tenderize the tough fibers in some beef cuts, like chuck or brisket. When cooking fibrous vegetables and legumes, moist heat softens the food until it reaches the perfect tenderness. Unlike dry heat methods, moist heat cooking will not produce a browned crust.

Sous Vide

Though this cooking method recently gained popularity for home chefs, commercial kitchens have used sous vide to cook delicious meals for decades. Sous vide, a French term meaning "under vacuum," involves placing vacuum-sealed food in a hot water bath to slow-cook it. This cooking method requires an immersion circulator, a hot water tank, and vacuum sealing equipment. In addition to reducing food waste and energy consumption, sous vide reduces prep time and contamination risk. The final product is moist, tender food perfectly marinated by the natural juices trapped in the bag.
Best Foods for Sous Vide

Meats: In addition to perfectly cooking meat to whatever doneness customers prefer, meat cooked with sous vide will not be scorched or have overcooked edges. Even tough cuts will turn out juicy and tender.

Poultry: Cook light and dark meat until it falls off the bone without worrying about undercooking or the chicken drying out.

Fish: While sous vide does not allow you to cook whole fish, fish filets can be tender, flaky, or well-done using sous vide. Even salmon, which is notoriously difficult to cook, maintains its size, color, and tenderness with sous vide cooking.

Eggs: Make scrambled, poached, or hard-boiled eggs easily without monitoring them while they cook. You can vary the texture and style by manipulating the water bath's temperature and cooking time.

Poaching

Poaching is a gentle cooking method that submerges food in hot liquid between 140 degrees and 180 degrees Fahrenheit. The low heat works well for delicate items, preserving moisture and flavor without needing fat or oil.
Best Foods for Poaching

Eggs: Poaching is a common method of cooking eggs that results in a soft, tender egg white and creamy yolk. It's more health-conscious than pan frying since you don't need oil.

Poultry: You can use broth, wine, or aromatics for poaching liquid, which adds flavor to boneless, skinless chicken breasts. The finished product is tender chicken that can be cubed, sliced, or shredded and added to salads, pasta, or sandwiches.

Fish: Poaching is a great way to preserve the delicate texture of light fish like tilapia, cod, and sole. A special broth called court bouillon adds flavor to the fish as it cooks.

Fruit: Use a sweetened liquid to poach fruits like pears or apples for a unique dessert. This method deepens the flavor of the fruit and softens the texture until the fruit is tender. Use any leftover liquid to make a flavored syrup to serve with the fruit.

Simmering

Simmering is a gentle method of cooking food that utilizes higher temperatures than poaching, usually between 180 degrees and 205 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature range lies below the boiling point and produces tiny bubbles. To achieve a simmer, bring water to the boiling point and lower the temperature.
Best Foods for Simmering

Rice: Simmering produces cooked rice with a light, fluffy texture. Using boiling water causes the rice to become sticky and dry.

Meats: Choose tough cuts of meat that will release fat and collagen as they simmer, like chuck roast.

Soups and Stocks: Because simmering releases fat and proteins from meat, it produces a rich flavorful broth used in soups or stews.

Vegetables: Gentle simmering cooks tough root vegetables like potatoes and carrots to the perfect texture.

Grains: You can simmer grains like quinoa, oats, or millet until they reach a soft edible texture. Hot cereal is made by simmering grains until most of the water evaporates, creating a smooth porridge.

Legumes: Simmer dried beans and legumes for a soft, edible texture. Some beans, like lentils, cook quickly, while others take several hours of gentle simmering to become fully cooked.

Steaming

To steam food, boil water continuously to produce a steady steam cloud. The steam surrounds food and cooks it evenly while retaining moisture. For high-volume kitchens, the most efficient steaming method is a commercial steamer or combi oven. You can also use a pot and steamer basket, a microwave, or wrap food in foil and cook it in the oven.
Best Foods for Steaming

Vegetables: You can steam most vegetables with excellent results. Steam sturdy veggies like beets, carrots, and potatoes longer than delicate foods like leafy greens.

Fish and Shellfish: For more flavorful fish, broth or wine can be used instead of water. Fish stays tender, while shellfish like clams, mussels, lobster, or crabs are cooked inside their shells.

Desserts: Some desserts are steamed rather than baked, producing a moist, silky texture. Creme brulee, flan, and panna cotta are all custards made using this cooking method.

Tamales: Tamales are a popular food made by steaming masa, a dough made of ground corn, and fillings inside a corn husk packet. The steam makes the corn dough tender and moist.

Boiling

This cooking technique involves submerging food in water heated to the boiling point of 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The boiling water produces large bubbles, which keep foods in motion while they cook. The expression slow boil means that the water has just started to bubble slowly but is not quite heated to the boiling temperature. A full boil occurs at the boiling point, appearing as fast-moving, rolling bubbles. Steam is also released from the water as it boils.
Best Foods for Boiling

Pasta: Pasta is one of the most commonly boiled foods. The hot water cooks the pasta quickly, allowing chefs to remove it from the water before starches break down to prevent a mushy texture.

Eggs: Boiling eggs in their shell produces hard- or soft-boiled eggs. The texture of the yolk can range from firm to creamy, depending on the cook time.

Vegetables: Tough root vegetables like potatoes and carrots will cook more quickly in boiling water. Test their tenderness with a fork so they don't overcook.

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2. Dry Heat Cooking

Dry heat cooking works without any moisture, broth, or water present. Instead, it relies on circulating hot air or contact with fat to transfer heat to foods. Temperatures of 300 degrees or more create browning, a reaction where amino acids and sugars in food turn brown and create a distinct aroma and flavor. The unique scents of toasted bread or seared meat are examples of dry heat cooking at work.

Baking

Baking and roasting use indirect heat to surround foods and cook from all sides. However, roasting refers to cooking meats or vegetables, and baking indicates making bread, rolls, and cakes. Additionally, baking usually uses lower temperatures than roasting.
Best Foods for Baking

Baked Goods: Baking transforms wet dough or batter into a final product with a firm texture. Bread, pastries, and cakes are all baked.

Pizza: Bake pizzas in a hot oven to form the crust, harden the dough, and melt the cheese.

Grilling

Grilling is similar to broiling because grills use radiant heat to cook food quickly. Most grilling equipment features an open grate with a heat source beneath the food. Flip food items to cook both sides and adjust the grill's temperature to get grill marks from the hot grate or rack.
Best Foods for Grilling

Burgers: Ground hamburger meat is moist and cooks well on a hot grill. The high heat sears the outside of the patty for a delicious charred flavor.

Meats: The dry heat from grilling removes moisture from meat quickly, so choose tender cuts or marinate the meat first. Ribeyes, porterhouses, t-bones, and strip steaks have higher fat content and marbling that produces a succulent grilled steak.

Poultry: Boneless cuts of chicken, such as boneless wings, grill more evenly than other chicken cuts. You can grill whole chickens, but spatchcocking is a more effective method.

Fish: Salmon, tuna, and swordfish steaks are sturdy enough for the grill and won't dry out quickly. Wrap fish in foil before placing it on the grates to prevent it from falling through the slots.

Roasting

Roasting is performed inside an oven and uses indirect heat that cooks from all sides for even browning. This cooking method works more slowly, coaxing flavors out of meats and vegetables. Choose low temperatures of 200 degrees to 350 degrees Fahrenheit to roast tough cuts of meat, or higher temperatures that reach up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit for more tender cuts.
Best Foods for Roasting

Meats: Roasting cooks large cuts of meat slowly and evenly. Prime rib, beef tenderloin, pork butt or shoulder, and pork loin all benefit from roasting.

Poultry: Place whole chickens or turkeys in a roasting pan or on a rotisserie spit and cook them for several hours to get a moist and flavorful product.

Fruits and Veggies: Roasting is a great way to bring out the best qualities in fruits and vegetables. Use this cooking method for grapes, cherries, and tomatoes to intensify their flavors. Pumpkin, squash, eggplant, and cauliflower are also excellent when roasted.

Sauteing

Originating from a French word that means "to jump," sauteing is performed over a burner in a hot, shallow pan and uses a small amount of oil or fat to coat food for even browning. This method cooks food quickly, so keep the food moving by tossing or flipping. Heat the oiled pan before adding food to achieve great results with sauteing. Additionally, stir or toss items frequently without overcrowding the pan with too much food.
Best Foods for Sauteing

Meats: Since sauteing cooks food quickly, use tender cuts of meat like ground beef, tenderloin, or medallions. Small, uniformly sized cuts are best since they brown evenly.

Poultry: Saute boneless breasts, strips, or cutlets to sear in flavor.

Vegetables: Zucchini, squash, and leafy greens can all be sauteed in olive oil or butter. Use this cooking method for carrots, celery, and onions, which often make a flavorful base for other dishes.

Frying

Frying is a popular cooking method that involves immersing food in hot oil or fat. The hot oil cooks the food quickly, creating a crisp exterior while retaining moisture. There are different types of frying techniques, including shallow frying, deep frying, and stir-frying. Pan-frying cooks food in a shallow layer of oil, while deep-frying cooks food by completely submerging it in hot oil. For the best final product, use the right oil, maintain the proper temperature, and avoid overcrowding the pan.
Best Foods for Frying

Meats: While some restaurants choose to deep-fry ham or other large cuts, pan-frying tender meat in small cubes provides a delicious addition to salad, pasta, or rice.

Poultry: Fried chicken is a staple in country diners, but you can also pan-fry chicken for stir fry or chicken sandwiches. For Thanksgiving meals, prepare the main entree by deep-frying a turkey.

Vegetables: Starchy vegetables are renowned for being fried and served as side dishes, such as french fries. However, dipping vegetables in batter and deep frying them creates a unique menu item to appeal to customers.

Fish: Since fish is lean meat, most chefs dip it in batter before frying it for the best finished product.

Broiling

Broiling cooks food by transferring extremely high heat onto food items, usually directed from a radiant above the food that cooks on one side at a time. Browning can occur quickly in this process, sealing juices and flavor inside and leaving a crisp exterior. Because this cooking method is fast, use a timer and check food frequently so it doesn't become burnt or overcooked. In commercial kitchens, you can broil items using a salamander or broiler oven.
Best Foods for Broiling

Meats: Broiling works best on thinner cuts of meat, like steaks, pork chops, or hamburger patties. Tender cuts are preferred because the dry heat will quickly evaporate moisture and dry out the meat.

Poultry: Use chicken or turkey cutlets, breast halves, quarters, and legs in the broiler for flavorful results.

Fish: Choose thick, sturdy fish, like salmon, that can handle high heat and won't dry out during the cooking process.

Fruits and Veggies: Broiling can cook fruits and vegetables for different flavors and textures. Try broiling peaches or grapefruit for a unique menu item.

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3. Combination Cooking

Combination cooking utilizes both dry and moist cooking methods. Foods are cooked in liquids at low heat for an extended period, resulting in fork-tender meat and vegetables. This technique works with the toughest cuts of meat, gradually breaking down fibers until they melt into the liquid.

Braising

During braising, foods are first seared in a hot oiled pan and transferred to a larger pot to cook in hot liquid. Then, partially submerge the food in simmering water, broth, or stock. Low heat softens the food and reduces the liquid over an extended cooking time, intensifying the flavors. Due to these qualities, braising produces fork-tender meats that fall off the bone.
Best Foods for Braising

Meats: Braising is most commonly used with cheaper, tougher cuts of meat such as pork shoulder, chuck roast, and lamb shank because it softens and tenderizes the muscle fibers.

Vegetables: You can braise vegetables alone or alongside meat to add more flavor. Root vegetables like potatoes, beets, and turnips soften during braising. Celery and fennel absorb liquid but maintain a firm texture.

Legumes: Lentils, chickpeas, and green beans can be braised in broth or wine for a soft texture that isn't mushy.

Stewing

Unlike braising, stewing completely submerges food in hot liquid. Use small cuts of meat in a stew, which are slow-cooked at low heat. As the stew cooks, fibrous vegetables break down while the meat's fat and collagen melt away. This leads to a thick, flavorful gravy filled with tender meat and soft vegetables.
Best Foods for Stewing

Meats: Meats rich in collagen and fat do well in a stew pot. Avoid lean cuts in favor of brisket, oxtail, or chuck roast.

Vegetables: Vegetables add depth to your stews. Onions, carrots, potatoes, and celery are common, but some recipes use parsnips, turnips, or rutabaga.

Glossary of Cooking Terms

As you follow recipes, you might come across some cooking terms that are unfamiliar to you. We've added descriptions of some of the most common cooking terms below:

Al Dente: describes pasta that is firm and slightly undercooked

Barbecue: to roast or broil meat on a rack or rotating spit over hot coals or a gas flame

Baste: to pour juices or liquid fat over meat while it cooks

Blanch: to scald food in boiling water for a quick moment and then place it in cold water to stop the cooking process

Brunoise: to cut foods into a 1/8" size dice

Caramelize: to heat sugars until they brown

Chiffonade: to roll up leafy greens or herbs and cut into long, thin slices

Clarify: to melt butter and separate the solids from the butterfat

Cure: to preserve foods by adding salt and drawing out moisture

Deglaze: to dissolve browned food residue in a hot pan with liquid

Dredge: to coat moist foods with a dry ingredient, like flour

Emulsify: to blend two liquids, like oil and water

Fillet: to cut a portion of meat or fish

Flambe: to cover food in a flammable liquid, like brandy or rum, and light it briefly on fire

Fold: to incorporate an ingredient with a careful motion that retains air

Julienne: to cut foods into long thin strips

Meuniere: a method of cooking, usually used with fish, in which the food is lightly dusted with flour and sauteed in butter

Parboil: to precook foods by boiling for a short time

Reduce: to thicken a liquid mixture by boiling or simmering so the moisture evaporates

Scald: to heat a liquid just to the boiling point

Sear: to expose food, usually meat, to a high temperature to brown the exterior

Spatchcock: to split open a whole chicken or turkey for easy grilling

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With a basic understanding of the three types of cooking methods, you can choose the best technique for each dish you prepare. As you create signature recipes, use dry cooking to achieve a crispy, brown exterior on meats or utilize moist cooking to keep your meat tender. When needed, combine dry and moist heat to transform tough cuts of meat into mouthwatering morsels.

The information provided on this website does not, and is not intended to, constitute legal advice. Please refer to our Content Policy for more details.

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Learn about the three main types of cooking, all the techniques that fall under those types, and the foods that are complemented by these techniques!

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The best water collecting leaf is cottonwood. If these are not out here than use curved/bowl shape leaves

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How to Collect Water From Plants: 9 Steps (with Pictures)

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Whether you're trying to conserve water or just concerned about running out in an emergency, knowing how to collect drinkable water from plants is a skill that can come in handy. You can gather water from your plant without damaging it via...

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We are sharing the rules and making sure people are following rules so we can't only survive in the environment but thrive.

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This video will help you make a sturdy shelter made of branches, sticks, and leaves in the wild to help you survive

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Build a Survival Shelter Fast! Debris Shelter, Survival Shelter

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By using resources in nature you can create a filter that will make the water unharmable but you can still drink it.

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You won't last more than three days if you're stuck in the wild without fresh water. When you find yourself in a survival situation, your first task is locating clean drinking water.

If you're lucky, the environment you find yourself in will provide you with a source of water-however, it's highly unlikely that it will be immediately drinkable. There are thousands of microorganisms and bacteria that live in water and without proper filtration, you could end up becoming violently ill-or even dying-after consuming unpurified water.

This guide will teach you how to purify water in the wild so you can worry less about survival when things don't go according to plan. Take a look at these seven filtration systems designed to help you access clean water in any survival situation.

1. Water Filtration System

In order to learn how to filter water in the wild, it's important to practice at home. By gathering basic materials like sand and rocks, you can easily create a tool that can be used to filter water in the great outdoors.

Keep in mind, filtering water in nature through things like sand and charcoal won't purify it completely, but it will remove physical threats and hazards. You will still need to use an additional method for purifying water in the wild before it's safe to drink.

In order to create your filter, you'll need a cone-like container to hold your filtration materials, like a plastic water bottle.

If need be, you can create a cone using large leaves and bundled sticks. Adding a bit of moss or cloth at the bottom of your filter will allow you to prevent your filtration materials (sand, rocks, moss, etc) from escaping out of the bottom.

Pro tip: if you can't find any materials for your filter in the wild, using a T-shirt or bundle of cloth is the next best thing. Consider washing or boiling your cloth before using it as a filter.

2. Boiling

Boiling water is one of the best wilderness water purification methods. Boiling clear water is the most efficient way to make it safe to drink. Most bacteria and microorganisms can't survive in boiling water, and they will likely die off during the heating process.

Only boil clear water. If you boil water contaminated with physical materials like dirt and leaves, you could still end up getting sick from the heavy minerals that will seep into your water. Even stagnant water from lakes can be boiled and purified.

With a solid container and a decent fire, you could have purified water in as little as 10 minutes. Just make sure that you let the water bubble for at least five minutes before you remove it from the fire. Once your water has been thoroughly boiled, let it rest for another five minutes.

3. Tablets or Drops

If you plan on making a bug out bag checklist to build up your emergency supplies, be sure to add purification tablets or drops to the list. When you don't know how to purify water in the wild, these can work in a pinch.

The most common ingredients in the filtration tablets are iodine, chlorine, and potassium permanganate. In small enough doses, these ingredients aren't harmful. However, they are extremely efficient at removing harmful organisms in your drinking water.

One of our best disaster preparedness tips: Include some of these purifying drops in your family's emergency preparedness bags.

One drawback of tablets is that you will need a way to measure the amount of water you're going to purify so you don't over or under-use the drops/tablets. Most tablets require about 20 liters of water.

Here are the steps you need to take when purifying your water with tablets:

Filter 20 liters (or required amount) until water is clear.

Fill your container and add the drops or tablets in as instructed.

Shake or stir the container for about 10-20 seconds to ensure that everything is evenly mixed.

Let the water rest for at least 20 minutes before you drink it.

4. Distillation

This method of purifying water in the wild is particularly useful in tropical settings or Pacific regions. Often, when you find fresh water in a tropical setting, it may contain high levels of sodium and minerals. Drinking this water may cause you to become even more dehydrated if you aren't careful.

One way to separate the water from its salts and minerals is to distill it. However, this process requires some items that might not be accessible in the wild. For the distillation process to work, you will need some type of container, a smaller container, and a cover.

By placing the smaller vessel inside the larger one and filling the larger one with salt water, you can cover it and let condensation naturally separate the water for you. Just make sure that your cover is indented towards the smaller vessel so that the condensation collects on the cover in a way that causes it to run down and drip into your smaller container.

With enough sunlight and the right gear, you can easily gather all of the drinkable water you need to survive. While this process doesn't fully purify your water, it distills it. This water can then be filtered using an emergency water filter.

5. Plants

You might be surprised to learn that there are a handful of plants in the wild that will purify and/or filter your water. However, you need to have a strong understanding and familiarity with these plants before using them. A single mistake when learning how to purify water in the wild with plants could lead to severe consequences.

The following flowers and plants can be used to remove dangerous contaminants from water:

Plant Xylem

Cilantro

Rice and coconuts

Banana peels

Fruit Peels

Reeds and bulrushes

Jackfruit seeds

Java plum seed

Moringa Oleifera

Oregon Grape

Fruit peels and shrubs like the Oregon Grape are a great way to purify your water.

By sealing and soaking your clear water in a bag with these plants, you can easily create clean drinking water. The inner bark of the Oregon Grape plant naturally contains berberine which is an antimicrobial alkaloid.

Unfortunately, you aren't likely to find this plant in a tropical or desert setting. Citric fruits and their seeds are a great substitute, and if you have access to coconuts, they are a great source of both water and water purifying materials.

6. Stone Boiling

There are going to be a handful of situations when you're stuck in the wild without the sufficient materials needed to boil your water. Even if you're crafty enough to construct a clay pot using materials from a riverbed, it won't likely withstand the heat needed to bring your water to a boil.

To get around this roadblock, many wilderness survivalists have adapted the method of bringing rocks to extremely high temperatures before dropping them in water.

You will still need some kind of container for your water that won't get destroyed by these extremely hot rocks, but this may be a viable solution in a pinch. Grab a few stones, wash them, and throw them in the coals of a hot fire.

Once the rocks are hot enough, they can be removed with wooden tongs and placed into your water container. If your water doesn't begin to boil within seconds after dropping the rocks in, then you will have to continue adding hot rocks until it does or start over again.

The best vessels for this strategy are larger, hollowed out rocks that are capable of holding water.

7. Sedimentation

It might seem like a no-brainer when discovering how to filter water in the wild, but this method often goes overlooked. When faced with extremely murky water, sedimentation is a great way to deal with the excess of unwanted particles.

Simply by leaving your water stagnant for an extended period will force all of the particles to sink to the bottom, leaving the clean water at the top. Using a separate container, the top part of the water can be scooped up used in your purification system.

When you take the clean water from the top, do your best not to disturb the water as much as possible or it could become mixed again.

If you want to avoid the hassle of purifying water in the wilderness using only primitive tools, consider picking up a survival backpack that contains all of the gear you need to get through any mishap. The Uncharted SEVENTY2 Survival Kit is fully equipped with a filter and two water containers so you won't have to worry.

If you're ready to prepare yourself and your family for any survival situation, pick up an Uncharted survival backpack today.

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You won't last more than three days if you're stuck in the wild without fresh water. When you find yourself in a survival situation, your first task is locating clean drinking water. If you're lucky, the environment you find yourself in will provide you with a source of water-however, it's highly unlikely that it will be immediately drinkable.

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If you leave a thing of metal out in the open, early in the morning the metal will have water droplets that you can collect with an absorbent cloth.

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. You can easily go a day without food, and usually don't need shelter right away, unless you're in freezing conditions. Not having any water for 24 hours, however, while survivable, depletes both your physical and mental strength, making it more difficult to perform the tasks necessary to making it out the other side. And after just three days without hydration, your body will shut down, and it'll be lights out for you.

With about two liters per day your body will be able circulate blood, process food, regulate body temperature (which prevents hypo- and hyperthermia), think clearly, and successfully carry out a host of other internal processes.

You can see how crucial water is to your survival. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet. In today's article, we'll walk you through several methods for finding water that will work for temperate climates and a variety of others, as well as methods that are particularly suited for tropical, freezing, and desert regions.

A Note Before Starting: Always Filter

Any survival expert will tell you that no matter where you find water in the wild - be it from streams, lakes, condensation on plants, etc. - it should always be filtered or purified before drinking. Now, in many cases this isn't possible, as you may not have the right supplies on you. Just know that any water you ingest without purifying could carry harmful bacteria, and is a risk on your part. If your choice is life or death, that's a risk you're most definitely going to take. Some water collection methods are safer for straight drinking than others; we'll outline those below.

General Methods and Tips for Finding Water in the Wild

The following tips work especially well in temperate and tropical areas, but many also apply to other climates too.

Start With the Obvious: Streams, Rivers, Lakes

These are your most obvious sources of water in the wild. Clear, flowing water is your best option, as the movement doesn't allow bacteria to fester. This means that small streams should be what you look for first. Rivers are acceptable, but larger ones often have a lot of pollution from upstream. Lakes and ponds are okay, but they're stagnant, meaning there's an increased chance for bacteria.

Now then, how do you go about finding these bodies of water? First, use your senses. If you stand perfectly still and listen intently, you may be able to hear running water, even if it's a great distance away.

Next you'll use your eyes to try and find animal tracks, which could lead to water. Insect swarms, while annoying, are another sign of water close by. And in the mornings and evenings especially, following the flight path of birds may lead you to your much-needed H2O. Watching animal behavior is especially important in the desert. Animal tracks will be easier to spot in the sand, and they'll almost always eventually lead to water. Birds will also especially flock towards water in dry areas.

Also just scout the environment you're in. Water runs downhill, so follow valleys, ditches, gullies, etc. Find your way to low ground, and you'll often run into water.

Collect Rainwater

Collecting and drinking rainwater is one of the safest ways to get hydrated without the risk of bacterial infection. This is especially true in wild, rural areas (in urban centers, the rain first travels through pollution, emissions, etc.).

There are two primary methods of collecting rainwater. The first is to use any and all containers you might have on you. The second is to tie the corners of a poncho or tarp around trees a few feet off the ground, place a small rock in the center to create a depression, and let the water collect.

You can combine these methods and make your containers more effective by tying the poncho or tarp to funnel into your bottle or pot or whatever you have (as long as it doesn't overflow and waste water!).

Collect Heavy Morning Dew

Looking for a way to collect up to a liter of water per hour? Tie some absorbent clothes/cloths or tufts of fine grass around your ankles, and take a pre-sunrise walk through tall grass, meadows, etc. Wring out the water when the cloths are saturated, and repeat. Just be sure you aren't collecting dew from any poisonous plants.

Fruits/Vegetation

Fruits, vegetables, cacti, fleshy/pulpy plants, even roots contain a lot of water. With any of these, you can simply collect the plants, place them into some kind of container, and smash them into a pulp with a rock to collect their liquid. It won't be much, but in desperate situations, every little bit helps.

This method is especially helpful in tropical environments where fruits and vegetation are abundant. Coconuts can be an excellent source of hydration. Unripe, green coconuts are actually better, though, as the milk of ripe coconuts acts as a laxative, which will just further dehydrate you.

Collect Plant Transpiration

Another easy option for water collection is taking advantage of plant transpiration. This is the process in which moisture is carried from a plant's roots, to the underside of its leaves. From there, it vaporizes into the atmosphere; but, you're going to catch the water before it does that.

First thing in the morning, tie a bag (or something you can make into a bag; the larger the better) around a leafy green tree branch or shrub. Place a rock in the bag to weigh it down a little bit so the water has a place to collect. Over the course of the day, the plant transpires, and produces moisture. Rather than vaporizing into the atmosphere, though, it collects at the bottom of your bag. Never do this with a poisonous plant.

Tree Crotches/Rock Crevices

Like with fruits/vegetation, this is another source that won't provide all that much water, but again, it's definitely something when the straits are dire - particularly when you're stranded in a desert. The crotches of tree limbs, or the crevices of rocks can be small collecting places for water. In an arid area, bird droppings around a rock crevice may indicate the presence of water inside, even if it can't be seen. To remove water from crotches and cracks, stick a piece of clothing or cloth in, let it soak up any moisture, and wring it out. Repeat if you can, and return after a rain for a fresh supply.

Dig an Underground Still

The benefit of creating a still is that it provides a reliable, fairly substantial source of water (compared to other methods), and you know roughly how much you'll be getting, which helps you plan and ration better.

There are aboveground and underground varieties of sills; the underground is your best bet as it collects more water, but the aboveground variety can be useful if you're extremely energy-depleted and can't dig a large hole. Click here to see instructions for doing that (page 58).

Directions for your underground still:
Supplies

Container (the largest you have)

Clear plastic sheeting

Digging tool

Rocks

Optional: something to act as a drinking tube/straw (CamelBak straw, bamboo/other plant)

Instructions

1. Find an area that gets sunlight most of the day.

2. Dig a bowl-like pit 3' wide by 2' deep. Dig an additional small hole within that for the container.

3. Optional: Attach the drinking tube to the bottom of the container. If you don't have one, skip this step.

4. Place the container in the pit, and run the tubing up out of the hole.

5. Cover the hole with plastic, and use rocks and soil to keep it in place.

6. Put a small rock in the center of your sheet, so that it hangs and forms an inverted cone over the container.

7. If you have a tube, drink straight from it. Otherwise, collect the container from the bottom, and replace it when you've stored the water elsewhere.

There's almost always moisture in the ground at that depth. That will react with the sun's heat to produce condensation, which will collect on the plastic. The inverted cone forces that condensation down into your container. You can expect to gather .5-1 liter per day, so you'd need more than one (or another source) to account for an entire day's supply.

Cold/Snowy-Specific Tips

Melt Snow and Ice

Especially in the mountains, snow and ice are abundant well into the summer months, and sometimes all year round. If you're by or on the ocean in a polar region, look to icebergs for a source of fresh water and for "old ice" that has been through rains and thaws. As opposed to salty ice, which is opaque and gray, freshwater ice has a bluish color and crystalline structure, and splinters easily with a knife.

If you're in a boat and surrounded by salt water, capture some in a container, and allow it to freeze. The fresh water will freeze first, while the salt will accumulate as slush in the middle. Remove the ice and discard the slush.

While snow and ice provide an excellent source of water, it should always be melted and purified first. Eating straight snow/ice will lower your body temperature, which dehydrates you because it forces your metabolic rate to speed up in order to keep you warm.

The best way to melt snow/ice and make it actually taste good is to simply mix it with other water you may have, even small amounts, and slosh it around until the snow melts. If you are heating it, add a little bit of other water to it; heating snow/ice directly can actually scorch it and produce a foul-tasting drink.

Desert-Specific Tips

In temperate, tropical, and frozen/icy climes, finding and collecting water is likely to happen within your 3-day window. Your primary concern is going to be collecting, storing, and purifying it. In desert environments though, simply finding a water source can be enormously difficult. Here a few tips specifically for arid environs:

Dig Wells

Start digging. Anywhere you see dampness on the ground or green vegetation, dig a large hole a few feet deep, and you'll likely get water seeping in. The same is true at the feet of cliffs, in dry river beds, at the first depression behind the first sand dune of dry desert lakes, and in valleys/low areas. You may not be successful, but you just might. This water will of course be rather muddy, so it will especially need filtering/purifying, but you'll have a water source nonetheless.

Collect Condensation from Metal

Extreme temperature variations between night and day can cause condensation on metal surfaces. Before the sun rises and vaporizes that moisture, collect it with absorbent cloth. This also means you should be placing your metal items in the open rather than stored in your pack.

Beach-Specific Tips

Dig a Beach Well

If you're stranded on land near a body of saltwater, you can still attain fresh water by digging a well on the beach. Behind the first sand dune - typically about 100 feet from shore - dig a 3-5' hole. Line the bottom with rocks, and the sides with wood (driftwood, most likely). This allows the well to fill up without collapsing or having too much sand in the water. In a few hours, you'll have a well full of fresh water - a combination of collected rainwater (which runs down the dunes), and sand-filtered ocean water. If it tastes salty, you simply move a little further away from shore.

A variation of this method is to let the water seep in, but then heat some additional rocks and drop them in the water. This will create steam, which can be collected by holding an absorbent cloth over the well. Wring out the cloth and repeat. This ensures that your water is free of all salt and other contaminants, but you will yield less.

Avoid Water Substitutes

In any desperate survival scenario, you may be tempted to try non-water liquids as a substitute for the real thing. In all but the most dire of situations, these should be avoided. In general, non-water substitutes only worsen your heath and vigor. These substitutes, and their harmful characteristics below:

Alcohol. Dehydrates and clouds judgment.

Urine. Contains harmful body waste and is about 2% salt.

Blood. May transmit disease. Also has high salt content.

Seawater/Sea Ice. Contains 4% salt. It takes more water to rid your body of the waste from seawater than what you get from it. Just depletes your body's H2O supply.

Of course, if you're a Bear Grylls fan, you'll know he famously drank his own urine while in the Sahara Desert. Is this safe to do, or was that for entertainment purposes? If you're down to your very last resort, drinking your urine can keep you alive for another day or two. It's 95% water, but that other 5% is comprised of waste products that will ultimately lead to kidney failure if subsisted on for more than a very short period of time. And of course as you get more dehydrated, this method becomes even more dangerous.

Before you resort to drinking your own pee, exhaust all the methods outlined above first. With a little effort, knowledge, and ingenuity, there's a good chance you'll be able to find genuine H2O.
For even more tips about developing your nature instinct, check out our podcast with Tristan Gooley:

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet.

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1. Dig a hole. (Andrew, Lyla)

2.Find stuff that does not absorb water. (Lyla)

3.Put in the material that does not absorb water. (Andrew)

4.Support the hole with sticks to make sure that it does not fill in with dirt. (Andrew, Lyla)

5.Add rocks around the hole to keep loose dirt or mud around the but not in it.

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we are creating a equal republic with rights 

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we are creating a equal republic with rights 

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We are creating new rules and figuring out how to share them with others.

Braeden-

1. Brainstorm new rules

2. Get the other rules people in agreement

3. Add to the Constitution

4. Help think of the government systems

5. Do it

Timmy-

1. Help with the new rules

2. Get the other groups in agreement

3. Think of new goverment system

4. Do it

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how to make a camping tripod from sticks, gus

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how to make a camping tripod from sticks, gus

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You gotta collect 3 long sticks tie them together then spread the sticks. for the hanging part you need a forked stick to hang the pot, so tie that on and hang the pot now you can boil water:). ( for better instructions go to the article)

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A step by step guide on how to make a cooking tripod on your next camping adventure

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This shows a few ways to cook foods. Depending on the weather, cooking with thing like a dutch oven, pitch oven, stick and much more!

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11 Ways to Cook Outdoors - Without a Grill

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With summertime fun comes both the heat and the sun. And if cooking inside has you rethinking turning the oven on, get outside in the early morning or later in the evening and skip overheating

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we need democracy government with presidental republic and senators

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we need democracy government with presidental republic and senators

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https://www.senate.gov/senators/

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Judges help to solve problems so we can use this when we need to solve a problem.

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Understand the important role judges play in the United States federal judicial system, including their qualifications, appointments, and length of service.

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1.Identify/research our supply of edible plants,herbs,and trees.

2.Research caloric nutritional value and all the ways to use an item.

3.Get the calories and other nutritional value of bugs from Emerson

4.Make a meal plan based on rations to maintain a healthy lifestyle then divide the food

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fridge

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Making primitive pottery is really quite simple, hence the word primitive which can be defined as "belonging to or characteristic of an early stage of development". Primitive pottery is fun to make and can produce attractive and functional ceramics. If we boil the process down to it's most basic elements there are 5 steps;

Of course there are many more details related to each of these steps but this is the basic process for creating primitive pottery. Many of those details will vary based on the quality of the clay, the type of firewood used and other differences in materials and environment. When making primitive pottery you have to be ready to make allowances for the variations inherent in using natural materials.

Finding & Processing Clay

Clay is abundant almost everywhere on earth, in moist climates it is recognizable by the plastic quality but in drier areas by a crackled texture and by the hard angular chunks in forms in the ground. The quality of found native clays varies wildly, so you may need to experiment and try several different local clay beds before you find now that works for you. You can test natural clay by wetting a small amount and seeing if it will bend around your finger without cracking.

Once you find a good clay you need to grind it to a course powder. If your clay is damp, leave it out where it will not be rained on until it is dry, then you can pulverize the clay between two stones or with a rock on cement.

Natural clay can be tested for plasticity

All clays need to have grit added to help the moisture get out and allow the pots to dry evenly, pottery that drys unevenly will crack. The grit added to clay is called "temper", some clays naturally have enough but most need to have it added. Different things can be added for temper, sand, volcanic ash, ground up rocks and ground up pottery are all common. Around 20% temper is a good average to start with, to add 20% just use a 4 to 1 ratio, 4 scoops of clay to one scoop of sand should work for most primitive pottery.

20% = 4 to 1 ratio

Mix the clay and temper together thoroughly, then moisten. Add water a little at a time and knead. Add just enough water to make the clay into a plastic mass, if you accidentally add too much water and your clay becomes excessively sticky you can add a little more dry clay.

If you are interested in learning more processing naturally found clay check out my article on processing natural clay here.

Making Coil Pottery

Once your clay is properly tempered and wet to a workable, plastic consistency, you are ready to start hand-building pottery.

Start by patting out a slab of clay to form the base of your pot about the size and shape of a pancake. Then either place in a shallow dish (called a puki) for a round bottomed pot or on a flat surface if you want a flat bottomed vessel.

Coiling a pot in a puki

Next roll out coils of clay using your hands on a flat surface and use them to build up the walls your pot. Use your thumb and forefinger to gently pinch the fresh coil and bond it to the pot, work your away all the way along the coil pinching and attaching the coil. Then, use your fingers to pinch the walls thinner, once you reach the desired pot wall thickness, use a rib tool to scrape and smooth out the walls of the pot.

Rib tools can be made from a variety of materials, gourds scrapers are traditional in the American Southwest as are scrapers formed from pot sherds, although they can be formed from wood, plastic, metal, coconut shells and almost anything.

Once your pot is fully shaped and scraped smooth, get your fingers wet and smooth down the rim of your primitive pot. Now just let your pot dry, make sure it drys slowly because pottery that dries too fast can crack, it may take some weeks to get your pottery fully dry depending on how humid your climate is.

For more detailed instruction about building coil pottery see my article on the subject here.

A primitive pot just formed in a puki

Firing Primitive Pottery

People often worry much about how to fire primitive pottery but it is really quite simple. Most breakage that occurs during the firing process is caused by moisture in the clay. Despite what some people think, breakage is not caused by not air bubbles or "fire gods" or anything else despite what old wise tales might tell you. If you have properly tempered your pottery by adding enough grit to the clay body and have carefully and slowly dried the pottery, then warmed it slowly around the fire, chances are very good your pots will come out of the fire in fine shape.

Try to use dry, clean burning fuel. Anything that burns clean (not overly smokey or sooty) should do. Pueblo Indians of New Mexico use cow manure and the Hopis use sheep manure, prehistorically the Hopi used coal. My favorite fuel is either mesquite or juniper wood, cottonwood bark is favored by many people.

Start by building a fire and allowing it to burn down to coals, while the wood burns down, sit your pottery around the fire and allow the flames to gently warm the pots. Once you have a bed of coals place your pottery over the coals on small stones, this will keep the fuel from touching the pots and leaving blemishes or "fire clouds" and will also permit hot air to circulate around the pots during the firing. Now stack firewood over and around the pottery in a teepee type configuration and light it. Once the fire starts to burn just let it burn all the way down to coals, then when the pots are cool enough take them out, that's all there is to it!

Pottery inside a teepee style fire ready to light off.

To learn more about how to fire primitive pottery check out my article that details the process here.

Keep Trying

Don't give up if your primitive pottery doesn't come out as good as you would like in the first attempt. The more you do it the better you will become. Do not rush, take your time and focus on getting the clay in the shape you want, finish the part you are working on before you move into the next step. With each pot you will see improvement.

Learn More About Primitive Pottery Making

If you are interested in learning more, I offer online video-based primitive pottery courses in all aspects of the art form, finding clay, coil building pottery, outdoor firing, etc. If you have questions or comments about this article, leave a comment below. I also have a YouTube channel that covers many aspects of primitive pottery.

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How to Make Primitive Pottery - Complete Instructions with photos

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Making primitive pottery is not hard, this article breaks the process down into 5 basic steps. Learn to make primitive pottery yourself with video lessons.

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1. Find open area with no trees

2. Find water

3. Find container

4. Get materials for a fire

5. Build fire

6. Pile up rocks beside fire

7. put sticks across the rocks

8. place container on top of stick

9. pour your water into container

10. let fire burn

11. once the fire burned out

12. use the newly filtered water

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Goal: feel full when not

1. Research ways to achieve goal-Olivia

2. Analyze and list resources-Lucie

3. ID each resources -Lucie

4. Go and collect resources-Olivia

5. Take pictures of each one -Lucie

6. Research ways to store specific resources- Lucie

7. Find good storage spots in woods-Olivia

Repeat-Olivia and Lucie

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Weight loss: Feel full on fewer calories

Choosing foods that are less calorie dense - meaning you get a larger portion size with a fewer number of calories - can help you lose weight and control your hunger.
By Mayo Clinic Staff
Feel full on fewer calories? It might sound like another gimmick for weight loss, but it's not. The concept of energy density really can help with weight loss.

In fact, well-planned weight-loss diets, such as the Mayo Clinic Diet, use the concept of energy density to help you lose weight and keep it off long term.

Weight loss with more food, fewer calories

Simply put, energy density is the number of calories (energy) in a specific amount of food. High energy density means that there are a lot of calories in a small amount of food. Low energy density means there are few calories in a large amount of food.

When you're striving for weight loss, one strategy is to eat low-energy-dense foods. That is, you want to eat a greater amount of food that contains less calories. This helps you feel fuller on fewer calories.

Here's a quick example with raisins and grapes. Raisins have a high energy density - 1 cup of raisins has about 480 calories. Grapes have a low energy density - 1 cup of grapes has about 104 calories.

The keys to energy density and weight loss

Three main factors play a role in what makes food high or low in energy density:

Water. Fruits and vegetables generally have high water and fiber content, which provide volume and weight but not calories. That's why they're low-energy-dense foods. Grapefruit, for example, is about 90% water. Half a grapefruit has just 64 calories. Raw, fresh carrots are about 88% water. A medium carrot has only about 25 calories.

Fiber. High-fiber foods not only provide volume but also take longer to digest, making you feel full longer on fewer calories. Vegetables, fruits and whole grains all contain fiber. Popcorn is a good example of a high-volume, low-calorie whole grain. One cup of air-popped popcorn has about 30 calories.

Fat. Fat is high in energy density. One pat of butter, for example, contains almost the same number of calories as 2 cups of raw broccoli. Foods that contain fat naturally, such as various meats, or foods with added fats are higher in calories than are their leaner or lower fat counterparts.

Energy density and the food pyramid

Changing lifestyle habits is never easy. And creating an eating plan using the energy-density concept is no exception. The first step is knowing which foods are better options when it comes to energy density.

Here's a look at energy density by the categories in the Mayo Clinic Healthy Weight Pyramid.

Vegetables

Most vegetables are very low in calories but high in volume or weight. Most vegetables contain water and fiber, which provides weight without calories. Examples include:

To add more vegetables to your diet, top your pasta with sauteed vegetables instead of meat or cheese sauce. Decrease the meat portion on your plate and increase the serving of vegetables. Add vegetables to your sandwiches. Snack on raw vegetables.

Fruits

Nearly all types of fruit fit into a healthy diet. But some fruits are lower calorie choices than others are. Whole fresh, frozen and canned fruits without syrup are good options. In contrast, fruit juices and dried fruits are concentrated sources of natural sugar and therefore have a high energy density - more calories - and they don't fill you up as much.

To fit more fruits into your diet, add blueberries to your cereal in the morning. Try mango or peach slices on whole-wheat toast with a little peanut butter. Or toss some mandarin orange and peach slices into a salad. Keep whole fruit in a bowl within easy sight or in the fridge and eat it anytime you like.

Carbohydrates

Many carbohydrates are either grains or made from grains, such as cereal, rice, bread and pasta. Whole grains are the best option because they're higher in fiber and other important nutrients.

Emphasize whole grains by simply choosing whole-grain options instead of refined grains, including foods made with sugar or white flour. For example, choose:

Whole-wheat bread

Whole-wheat pasta

Oatmeal

Brown rice

Whole-grain cereal

Because many carbohydrates are higher in energy density, keep an eye on portion sizes.

Protein and dairy

These include food from both plant and animal sources. The healthiest lower energy-dense choices are foods that are high in protein but low in fat and calories, such as:

Beans, peas and lentils, which are also good sources of fiber

Fish

Lean meat and poultry

Low-fat or fat-free dairy products, such as milk, yogurt and cheese

Egg whites

Fats

While fats are high-energy-dense foods, some fats are healthier than others. Include small amounts of healthy monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats in your diet. Nuts, seeds and oils, such as olive, flaxseed and safflower oils, contain healthy fats. Limit saturated fat and trans fat, such as butter or shortening.

Sweets

Like fats, sweets are typically high in energy density. Good options for sweets include those that are low in added fat and contain healthy ingredients, such as fruits, whole grains and low-fat dairy. Examples include fresh fruit topped with low-fat yogurt, a cookie made with whole-wheat flour or a small amount of dark chocolate.

The keys to sweets are to keep the serving size small and the ingredients healthy. Even a small piece of dark chocolate can fit into a weight-loss plan.

Making energy density work for you

When you stick to the concept of energy density, you don't have to feel hungry or deprived. By including plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables and whole grains in your diet, you can feel full on fewer calories. You may even have room in your diet for a sweet on occasion.

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Show references

1. Hingle MD, et al. Practice paper of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics: Selecting nutrient-dense foods for good health. Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. 2016; doi:10.1016/j.jand.2016.06.375.

2. The American Heart Association Diet and Lifestyle Recommendations. American Heart Association. https://www.heart.org/en/healthy-living/healthy-eating/eat-smart/nutrition-basics/aha-diet-and-lifestyle-recommendations. Accessed Feb. 22, 2022.

3. 2020-2025 Dietary Guidelines for Americans. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services and U.S. Department of Agriculture. https://www.dietaryguidelines.gov. Accessed Feb. 22, 2022.

4. Hensrud DD, et al. Energy, calories and weight. In: The Mayo Clinic Diet. 2nd ed. Mayo Clinic. 2017.

5. Hossein Rouhani M, et al. Associations between energy density and obesity: A systematic review and meta-analysis of observational studies. Nutrition. 2016; doi:10.1016/j.nut.2016.03.017.

6. Dreher ML, et al. A comprehensive critical assessment of increased fruit and vegetable intake on weight loss in women. Nutrients. 2020; doi:10.3390/nu12071919.

7. Smethers AD, et al. Dietary management of obesity: Cornerstones of healthy eating patterns. The Medical Clinics of North America. 2018; doi:10.1016/j.mcna.2017.08.009.

8. FoodData Central. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service. https://fdc.nal.usda.gov. Accessed Feb. 22, 2022.

See more In-depth

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The simple math that helps you feel full on fewer calories

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Want to lose weight without feeling hungry all the time? Learn what foods to choose to help you feel full on fewer calories.

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Make a large pile of debris 2 feet thick. Mud, wet earth, or wet leaves can be used for the top layer. The last layer should be branches laid on the top.

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use wet wood to make the fire then there is more smoke than fire

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No one likes to sit on the side of the fire pit that always seems to have smoke blowing into it. What about that friend that always seems to be a magnet for the smoke, regardless of what spot they sit in? Instead of relaxing, you spend the whole night playing musical chairs, and at that point, you might as well head inside. Right?

What if there was a way you could minimize smoke so everyone can enjoy their time sitting around the fire pit? Understanding what causes excess smoke will help you eliminate it, so read on for some easy steps to make your time outside more fun and relaxing.

What Causes Campfire Smoke?

Burning wood in a fire pit is obviously going to emit at least a little bit of smoke, but what makes the unreasonable amount of smoke that makes everyone's eyes burn? Put simply, the wood you burn is the biggest cause of excess smoke, but don't panic. The solution isn't as complex as you think it is.

Wood smoke is primarily caused by burning certain chemicals that naturally make up hardwoods like oak, ash, and hickory or softwoods like pine, spruce, and fir. Lots of smoke is created when these chemicals are heated inefficiently and result in an incomplete burning of the wood. Excess fire pit smoke is frequently caused by burning firewood with extra moisture in it, typically green wood or wood that has not fully dried out. "Green wood" refers to wood that has been freshly cut or is from a tree that may not have died before it was cut. Wood types that contain pitch, sap, or other naturally occurring liquids and substances can also create extra smoke. In short, wood that is wet or green will create a lot of smoke.

How to Reduce Campfire Smoke

Just as there are lots of ways to light a fire, there are lots of ways to try to reduce the amount of smoke that swirls around your bonfire. Nothing says "It's time to go inside" like the burning in your eyes and throat that campfire smoke causes. Using these six simple tips, you can minimize the amount of smoke intruding your backyard bonfire so everyone can enjoy the setting and relax.

1: Keep Your Fire Pit Clean

There is no need to spray your fire pit down or get it squeaky clean after each use. Simply properly dispose of the ash and remaining coals after each fire. Make sure to give everything ample time to cool down completely and dispose of all fire remnants into a safe area. You can also use a shop vac to clean up ashes.

Debris such as ash, embers, dirt, and partially burned pieces of firewood can impede the heating up process and the successful burning of your fires, resulting in more smoke swirling around your circle. Building a fire on top of old debris can make it more difficult for the fire to start and to get hot enough to produce as little smoke as possible. It can also disrupt the airflow and circulation needed to keep a roaring fire.

It is important to keep your fire pit clean to help fires burn better and to keep your fire pit looking nice and inviting. An easy way to keep your fire pit clean between uses is to use a fire pit cover or store it indoors in a dry place to keep it from rusting. Covering your fire pit will also save you from having to clean ash, water, or dirt from it when you want to use it next.

2: Stack Firewood in Your Fire Pit Properly

Even though tossing a couple pieces of chopped wood with some kindling into the pit might get a fire started, it's not going to do you any favors in the smoke department. Hot Tip #1: Good airflow within your fire pit is key to eliminating excess smoke. Airflow helps feed the fire oxygen to get it heated up quicker and maintain a temperature that will keep smoke amounts at bay. The best way to ensure good airflow is to take the time to set up the wood in configurations that help circulate the air. Use tools, like log grabbers, to reposition and add pieces of wood as the fire burns.

Taking the time to stack the firewood in the fire pit may be tedious and seem ridiculous, but it will make a world of difference as your fire burns on. The teepee or log cabin firewood stacking methods will keep air flowing and provide "housing" for tinder and kindling. The log cabin method has plenty of gaps for air to flow through to feed the fire. The teepee method has a completely open base to allow air to move through and around the flames. The log cabin method is more stable and easier to maintain than the teepee method, but they both work well. Combining the two methods has been known to have the best effect in the long run, but it is best to use the method that best fits into your fire pit.

Smaller logs and pieces of wood are always better than large pieces for starting a fire and keeping it going well. Adding smaller pieces of wood (kindling) to the middle of the fire early on will help light it and get it to heat up quickly and properly. The kindling will help the fire spread to the larger pieces of wood in the fire pit. Using newspaper, dryer lint, or a fire starter of some kind can be helpful in getting the fire started.

3: Use Good, Dry Wood

Hot Tip #2: Using wet wood is going to create more smoke than flame. Wood that is dry all the way through will produce much less smoke and burn better for longer than wood with moisture trapped inside. Dry wood is critical when trying to light a fire, keeping one going, and minimizing smoke. Do not burn anything other than wood. Don't throw garbage, cans, glass, plastic, or other things into the fire as that will cool it down and create more smoke. You can tell when two pieces of wood are dry enough by hitting them together and listening for a high pitch, ringing sound. Wet wood is heavier and will create a low pitched thunk when hit together.

Hardwood
Using well-seasoned hardwoods is the best kind of wood to use when building and maintaining a bonfire with little smoke. Green wood contains too much moisture, causing it to smoke when being burned. It will eventually stop smoking when all the moisture is removed, but that typically takes a while. Hardwoods are known to smoke less than other wood types. Hardwoods include hickory, oak, ash, and maple.

Hardwoods are naturally pretty dense, so they typically hold less water than others. However, some do tend to smoke more than others. Low smoking hardwoods include hickory, oak, ash, and maple. Options that may smoke more are elm, poplar, and eucalyptus.

Softwood
Softwoods can be great to get a fire going because they light pretty easily, but after that, it's best to stick to hardwoods. Softwoods contain high amounts of resin and sap, which create smoke when burned. This is a better option if you know it is well seasoned or kiln-dried, as there will be very little moisture left inside. It is still a fairly safe bet to expect smoke when dealing with this type of wood, even if it is well dried. Softwoods are commonly found, especially if you cut your own trees up to use as firewood. Softwoods include pine, cedar, spruce, hemlock, and fir.

Seasoned Wood
Seasoned wood is great for eliminating campfire smoke, because it is fully dried and has been stored in a dry and covered location. To be considered "seasoned," the wood has to have been stored in a dry, protected place for anywhere between 6 months and 2 years and have reached a moisture content of 30% or less. 20% is even better. Seasoned wood burns longer, better, and hotter than damp wood.

Many home improvement stores sell seasoned wood. Many gas stations also sell firewood, but it's not always guaranteed that it is thoroughly dried wood. Hot Tip #3: When purchasing firewood, ask if it was stored inside or outside, especially if it's rained recently. If it was rained on, that seasoned or kiln-dried status means nothing.
Kiln-Dried Wood
Kiln-dried wood is probably your best option for eliminating campfire smoke, but it is a campfire luxury item. Kiln-dried wood is wood that stays in a special firewood kiln for two days at roughly 250 degrees Fahrenheit to reach 20% or less moisture. Many home improvement stores sell it, so it's actually pretty accessible, but it's expensive. Typically, you'll pay 30% more for kiln-dried wood than seasoned wood, and even more when compared to "regular" wood. You'll also get fewer pieces in each bundle of wood you purchase.

Kiln-dried wood will produce little to no smoke because of the low moisture levels. It will light easily, stay lit, and burn hot and long, making it a great option for your next backyard bonfire. Hot Tip #4: Because this wood burns so hot, pesky insects will stay away. If you ever purchase too much for one fire, store it inside your home rather than outside or in a garage or shed to maintain the dryness and integrity of the wood.

4: Store Wood Properly

I know it sounds simple, but this will make a huge difference. It is important to take care of your firewood selection to ensure you have wood that is ready to go at any moment, for all those instances of impromptu backyard bonfires. Whether you've purchased a face cord, rick, or truckload of wood or if you've chopped up a fallen tree on your property line, it is important to store your wood properly.

The best way to store wood is to keep it at least 6 inches off the ground to stop moisture from the dirt and grass from seeping into the wood. This will also prevent rain water from running through and pooling underneath your wood pile. Using a log rack is a great way to keep your firewood neatly stacked, tucked out of the way, and up off the ground.

The best way to keep your wood dry and protected is to keep it covered. Storing your firewood indoors in a garage or shed is a great way to solve these weather-related issues, but for those that don't have those options or the space available in an indoor location, never fear. There are log rack covers ranging in size and closure methods to fit any size log rack or wood pile. You can also improvise when covering a wood pile by using a tarp you already have and use stakes or wood pieces to hold it down to keep it secure regardless of the wind.

5: Don't Overfeed the Fire or Use the Wrong Fuel

So, you've made yourself a roaring fire and you haven't had to encounter that terrible moment of smoke in your eyes or smoke-free musical chairs. Doesn't that sound like a great night? It has been, so you're not ready to call it a night yet. Time to add more firewood to keep the party going! Before you toss on another couple logs or a bucket full of leaves and grass you're looking to get rid of, think about the smoke you might rile up by doing this.

It's super easy to overdo it by adding too much wood or the wrong kind of fuel in an attempt to keep your fire going with as little smoke as possible. Placing too much wood on the fire will lower the temperature too much, leading to lots of smoke and a dying flame. Limit yourself to adding one piece at a time to sustain the flames and maintain the integrity of the bonfire you've worked so hard to create. Once the fire has gotten started and the big pieces of wood in the fire pit are burning, don't put any more tinder or green plants on. This can include leaves, grass, branches from the tree standing nearby, or the neighbor's ferns your dog dug up. Never put plastic, garbage, styrofoam, or anything with lots of ink on it into the fire, as those produce lots of thick, dark, toxic smoke.

It usually takes more to get a fire started than you may originally anticipate. And while believing you can start a fire in seconds using a magnifying glass is fun to think about, it's not very practical. Use multiple firestarters, like kindling, paper, or even dryer lint to get a fire started. Use multiple pieces in the fire pit to reduce the chances that your fire will go out before it really starts to burn.

6: Try a Smokeless Fire Pit

We all know that lighting a fire means there's going to be smoke. It kind of comes with the territory. However, there are fire pits that are designed to eliminate more smoke than a typical fire pit because of its ability to sustain airflow. They are built to control both airflow and temperature, all things necessary to balance when trying to eliminate smoke. There are even some portable options if that's your style. Better yet, these "smokeless fire pits" have actually been known to live up to their title. Well... okay. That may not be entirely true. "Smokeless" doesn't really mean absolutely no smoke will be created. It means there will be substantially less smoke than a regular fire pit produces.

Smokeless fire pits allow airflow through the very bottom of the fire pit, helping to completely burn up the wood and fuel in the pit at hotter temperatures and minimizing, and sometimes even eliminating, fire pit smoke. They are engineered to produce what's called a double-burn, meaning the air is brought in from the bottom of the fire pit where it is heated and used to effectively burn the energy coming from the logs in the fire.

However, smokeless fire pits can definitely cost you a pretty penny. Most smokeless fire pits are stainless steel and feature a double-wall design to properly heat the air and eliminate smoke. There are both stationary and portable options for smokeless fire pits.

Now that you've learned six easy but effective ways to eliminate excess campfire smoke, you are ready to host the next get-together with your family and friends. Never again will you have to endure that horrible burning feeling of smoke in your eyes and throat, nor will you ever play musical chairs again. Well, unless you want to. So go light a campfire in your fire pit and enjoy your time relaxing with others in the great outdoors surrounded by the warmth of flames and the comforting sound of crackling wood filling the gaps in conversation.

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6 Easy Tips and Tricks to Reduce Fire Pit Smoke

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No one likes to sit on the side of the fire pit that always seems to have smoke blowing into it. What about that friend that always seems to be a magnet for the smoke, regardless of what spot they sit in?

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet.

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. You can easily go a day without food, and usually don't need shelter right away, unless you're in freezing conditions. Not having any water for 24 hours, however, while survivable, depletes both your physical and mental strength, making it more difficult to perform the tasks necessary to making it out the other side. And after just three days without hydration, your body will shut down, and it'll be lights out for you.

With about two liters per day your body will be able circulate blood, process food, regulate body temperature (which prevents hypo- and hyperthermia), think clearly, and successfully carry out a host of other internal processes.

You can see how crucial water is to your survival. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet. In today's article, we'll walk you through several methods for finding water that will work for temperate climates and a variety of others, as well as methods that are particularly suited for tropical, freezing, and desert regions.

A Note Before Starting: Always Filter

Any survival expert will tell you that no matter where you find water in the wild - be it from streams, lakes, condensation on plants, etc. - it should always be filtered or purified before drinking. Now, in many cases this isn't possible, as you may not have the right supplies on you. Just know that any water you ingest without purifying could carry harmful bacteria, and is a risk on your part. If your choice is life or death, that's a risk you're most definitely going to take. Some water collection methods are safer for straight drinking than others; we'll outline those below.

General Methods and Tips for Finding Water in the Wild

The following tips work especially well in temperate and tropical areas, but many also apply to other climates too.

Start With the Obvious: Streams, Rivers, Lakes

These are your most obvious sources of water in the wild. Clear, flowing water is your best option, as the movement doesn't allow bacteria to fester. This means that small streams should be what you look for first. Rivers are acceptable, but larger ones often have a lot of pollution from upstream. Lakes and ponds are okay, but they're stagnant, meaning there's an increased chance for bacteria.

Now then, how do you go about finding these bodies of water? First, use your senses. If you stand perfectly still and listen intently, you may be able to hear running water, even if it's a great distance away.

Next you'll use your eyes to try and find animal tracks, which could lead to water. Insect swarms, while annoying, are another sign of water close by. And in the mornings and evenings especially, following the flight path of birds may lead you to your much-needed H2O. Watching animal behavior is especially important in the desert. Animal tracks will be easier to spot in the sand, and they'll almost always eventually lead to water. Birds will also especially flock towards water in dry areas.

Also just scout the environment you're in. Water runs downhill, so follow valleys, ditches, gullies, etc. Find your way to low ground, and you'll often run into water.

Collect Rainwater

Collecting and drinking rainwater is one of the safest ways to get hydrated without the risk of bacterial infection. This is especially true in wild, rural areas (in urban centers, the rain first travels through pollution, emissions, etc.).

There are two primary methods of collecting rainwater. The first is to use any and all containers you might have on you. The second is to tie the corners of a poncho or tarp around trees a few feet off the ground, place a small rock in the center to create a depression, and let the water collect.

You can combine these methods and make your containers more effective by tying the poncho or tarp to funnel into your bottle or pot or whatever you have (as long as it doesn't overflow and waste water!).

Collect Heavy Morning Dew

Looking for a way to collect up to a liter of water per hour? Tie some absorbent clothes/cloths or tufts of fine grass around your ankles, and take a pre-sunrise walk through tall grass, meadows, etc. Wring out the water when the cloths are saturated, and repeat. Just be sure you aren't collecting dew from any poisonous plants.

Fruits/Vegetation

Fruits, vegetables, cacti, fleshy/pulpy plants, even roots contain a lot of water. With any of these, you can simply collect the plants, place them into some kind of container, and smash them into a pulp with a rock to collect their liquid. It won't be much, but in desperate situations, every little bit helps.

This method is especially helpful in tropical environments where fruits and vegetation are abundant. Coconuts can be an excellent source of hydration. Unripe, green coconuts are actually better, though, as the milk of ripe coconuts acts as a laxative, which will just further dehydrate you.

Collect Plant Transpiration

Another easy option for water collection is taking advantage of plant transpiration. This is the process in which moisture is carried from a plant's roots, to the underside of its leaves. From there, it vaporizes into the atmosphere; but, you're going to catch the water before it does that.

First thing in the morning, tie a bag (or something you can make into a bag; the larger the better) around a leafy green tree branch or shrub. Place a rock in the bag to weigh it down a little bit so the water has a place to collect. Over the course of the day, the plant transpires, and produces moisture. Rather than vaporizing into the atmosphere, though, it collects at the bottom of your bag. Never do this with a poisonous plant.

Tree Crotches/Rock Crevices

Like with fruits/vegetation, this is another source that won't provide all that much water, but again, it's definitely something when the straits are dire - particularly when you're stranded in a desert. The crotches of tree limbs, or the crevices of rocks can be small collecting places for water. In an arid area, bird droppings around a rock crevice may indicate the presence of water inside, even if it can't be seen. To remove water from crotches and cracks, stick a piece of clothing or cloth in, let it soak up any moisture, and wring it out. Repeat if you can, and return after a rain for a fresh supply.

Dig an Underground Still

The benefit of creating a still is that it provides a reliable, fairly substantial source of water (compared to other methods), and you know roughly how much you'll be getting, which helps you plan and ration better.

There are aboveground and underground varieties of sills; the underground is your best bet as it collects more water, but the aboveground variety can be useful if you're extremely energy-depleted and can't dig a large hole. Click here to see instructions for doing that (page 58).

Directions for your underground still:
Supplies

Container (the largest you have)

Clear plastic sheeting

Digging tool

Rocks

Optional: something to act as a drinking tube/straw (CamelBak straw, bamboo/other plant)

Instructions

1. Find an area that gets sunlight most of the day.

2. Dig a bowl-like pit 3' wide by 2' deep. Dig an additional small hole within that for the container.

3. Optional: Attach the drinking tube to the bottom of the container. If you don't have one, skip this step.

4. Place the container in the pit, and run the tubing up out of the hole.

5. Cover the hole with plastic, and use rocks and soil to keep it in place.

6. Put a small rock in the center of your sheet, so that it hangs and forms an inverted cone over the container.

7. If you have a tube, drink straight from it. Otherwise, collect the container from the bottom, and replace it when you've stored the water elsewhere.

There's almost always moisture in the ground at that depth. That will react with the sun's heat to produce condensation, which will collect on the plastic. The inverted cone forces that condensation down into your container. You can expect to gather .5-1 liter per day, so you'd need more than one (or another source) to account for an entire day's supply.

Cold/Snowy-Specific Tips

Melt Snow and Ice

Especially in the mountains, snow and ice are abundant well into the summer months, and sometimes all year round. If you're by or on the ocean in a polar region, look to icebergs for a source of fresh water and for "old ice" that has been through rains and thaws. As opposed to salty ice, which is opaque and gray, freshwater ice has a bluish color and crystalline structure, and splinters easily with a knife.

If you're in a boat and surrounded by salt water, capture some in a container, and allow it to freeze. The fresh water will freeze first, while the salt will accumulate as slush in the middle. Remove the ice and discard the slush.

While snow and ice provide an excellent source of water, it should always be melted and purified first. Eating straight snow/ice will lower your body temperature, which dehydrates you because it forces your metabolic rate to speed up in order to keep you warm.

The best way to melt snow/ice and make it actually taste good is to simply mix it with other water you may have, even small amounts, and slosh it around until the snow melts. If you are heating it, add a little bit of other water to it; heating snow/ice directly can actually scorch it and produce a foul-tasting drink.

Desert-Specific Tips

In temperate, tropical, and frozen/icy climes, finding and collecting water is likely to happen within your 3-day window. Your primary concern is going to be collecting, storing, and purifying it. In desert environments though, simply finding a water source can be enormously difficult. Here a few tips specifically for arid environs:

Dig Wells

Start digging. Anywhere you see dampness on the ground or green vegetation, dig a large hole a few feet deep, and you'll likely get water seeping in. The same is true at the feet of cliffs, in dry river beds, at the first depression behind the first sand dune of dry desert lakes, and in valleys/low areas. You may not be successful, but you just might. This water will of course be rather muddy, so it will especially need filtering/purifying, but you'll have a water source nonetheless.

Collect Condensation from Metal

Extreme temperature variations between night and day can cause condensation on metal surfaces. Before the sun rises and vaporizes that moisture, collect it with absorbent cloth. This also means you should be placing your metal items in the open rather than stored in your pack.

Beach-Specific Tips

Dig a Beach Well

If you're stranded on land near a body of saltwater, you can still attain fresh water by digging a well on the beach. Behind the first sand dune - typically about 100 feet from shore - dig a 3-5' hole. Line the bottom with rocks, and the sides with wood (driftwood, most likely). This allows the well to fill up without collapsing or having too much sand in the water. In a few hours, you'll have a well full of fresh water - a combination of collected rainwater (which runs down the dunes), and sand-filtered ocean water. If it tastes salty, you simply move a little further away from shore.

A variation of this method is to let the water seep in, but then heat some additional rocks and drop them in the water. This will create steam, which can be collected by holding an absorbent cloth over the well. Wring out the cloth and repeat. This ensures that your water is free of all salt and other contaminants, but you will yield less.

Avoid Water Substitutes

In any desperate survival scenario, you may be tempted to try non-water liquids as a substitute for the real thing. In all but the most dire of situations, these should be avoided. In general, non-water substitutes only worsen your heath and vigor. These substitutes, and their harmful characteristics below:

Alcohol. Dehydrates and clouds judgment.

Urine. Contains harmful body waste and is about 2% salt.

Blood. May transmit disease. Also has high salt content.

Seawater/Sea Ice. Contains 4% salt. It takes more water to rid your body of the waste from seawater than what you get from it. Just depletes your body's H2O supply.

Of course, if you're a Bear Grylls fan, you'll know he famously drank his own urine while in the Sahara Desert. Is this safe to do, or was that for entertainment purposes? If you're down to your very last resort, drinking your urine can keep you alive for another day or two. It's 95% water, but that other 5% is comprised of waste products that will ultimately lead to kidney failure if subsisted on for more than a very short period of time. And of course as you get more dehydrated, this method becomes even more dangerous.

Before you resort to drinking your own pee, exhaust all the methods outlined above first. With a little effort, knowledge, and ingenuity, there's a good chance you'll be able to find genuine H2O.
For even more tips about developing your nature instinct, check out our podcast with Tristan Gooley:

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet.

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1. Find anything in the woods big or small

2. Test the objects with your spit to see if it absorbs or dose not absorb

3. If it does absorb it then go put it back.

4. If it does not absorb it put in the whole that another group is digging in a open space

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tie a bag around a branch and place a rock in it so it creates a slope for the water. then make sure it is in some sort of suuny area because the more sun the more water extracted

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Finding yourself stranded in the wilderness without food or water is an unlikely, albeit, possible scenario. Being prepared for these types of scenarios is what separates those who survive from those who expire.

While food is important, you can live without it for weeks, but water is a non-negotiable. Without water, you can't live longer than a few days.

One of the most important things you can learn is how to extract water from the environment in the wild. One of the issues people often face is that they can't find a safe and clean source of water in the wilderness.

Thankfully, plants and trees are great sources of water if you know how to work with them. The water extracted from plants is usually clean and safe to drink.

Depending on the plant, you can extract enough water to last you throughout any emergency scenario.

In this post, I will teach you how to identify the best plants for water extraction and a few simple methods to do it with minimal equipment.

Extracting Water Through Condensation

Plants and trees transpire water, which means they release water as vapor from their leaves throughout the day. You can take advantage of that by collecting this water through condensation.

All you need to extract water from plants through condensation is a clear plastic bag, a small rock, and something to tie the bag around the plant foliage.

The idea here is to find a clean branch with large leaves that gets a lot of sunlight.

Then place your small rock into the plastic bag (to weigh it down) and place the bag around the branch, tying it up to the branch at the top.

The rock is not required, but it helps add a downward slope to the bag where the water can gather.

You'll have to leave the bag on the branch for 4-5 hours to get a decent amount of water. The hotter it is and the more sunlight your branch is getting - the quicker the water will accumulate.

The best part about this method is that it doesn't harm the plants at all - you are simply capturing the water that the plants are releasing anyways.

You can do this process with any plant, just make sure that it's not poisonous. That being said, here are a few common plats that produce water really well using this method:

Cottonwood

Cottonwood trees are very common in the wild - they grow in just about every region of the country.

They are some of the fastest-growing trees, so they pull a lot of water.

This means they're great for extracting water through the condensation method.

Cottonwood branches are higher up than those of the willow, so you might need to do a little bit of climbing to find a suitable leafy branch for your water collection.

Berry Shrubs

Berry shrubs are great for extracting water. If your landscape has any wild blueberries, barberries, or junipers - you're in luck.

These little shrubs transpire a lot of water, and as a bonus, they can provide you some sustenance during the fruiting season.

A word of caution, however: if you're eating wild berries, make sure you are certain of what species they are, as some can be poisonous.

Willow

Willow trees love water and absorb a lot of it through their growth cycle.

If there is no water in sight, you can be sure that the willow is pulling it deep from under the earth's surface.

Willow trees make great plants for water extraction.

They're easy to recognize and their leaves reach low. Willows can produce 3L of water per hour from the whole tree, which means you can get a decent cup of water from a single branch after just a few hours.

The water collected from willow trees is clean and safe to drink, but make sure you shake off any insects or debris off the leaves before you put your bag around them.

Extracting Water Through Tapping

Tapping a tree is the process of extracting the watery sap from its trunk by creating a 2-inch deep hole in the tree and placing a spile into the hole. You'll need a container to catch the sap as it begins to run down the spile. If you've ever made your own maple syrup, you already know how it's done.

And you know that when the maple sap first comes out of the tree, it's very watery and clear.

Although the water is safe and clean, expect it to have a slightly sweet flavor and consider that a gift from the tree to you. That sweetness is nutrition that will help you survive.

Many different trees can be tapped for water. Here are some of the best trees for tapping when you need to quench your thirst:

Maple

One of the best-known trees for tapping is, of course, the maple tree.

There are hundreds of different maple varieties, and you can probably find one in the wild wherever you live.

They are easy to identify due to the shape of their leaves.

During the late winter and early spring, maples are pumping a lot of water through their trunks, so you can get a decent amount of sap from tapping them.

Birch

Birch is another common tree that can be found all throughout the Northern Hemisphere. They are easy to recognize thanks to their characteristic bark marked with horizontal white, silver, or yellow lenticels.

Birch trees are great for tapping in the spring. They produce a lot of water and their sap has a mildly sweet flavor.

Walnut

If you find a walnut tree in the wild, it can be a great source of both water and nutrition.

Walnut trees can be tapped from late fall to spring. If you're lucky, you can also gather some fallen walnuts off the ground and cook them over a fire for a delicious meal.

Similarly to maple, walnut trees produce a watery sap that has a sweet flavor that is oftentimes boiled down to a syrup. Drinking the sap as-is can provide you with plenty of hydration to keep you alive.

Hickory

Much like the walnut trees, hickory trees can provide you with edible nuts as well as water. Hickory trees are easy to recognize by their bark - it's ridged, grayish in color, and very easy to peel.

Hickory trees produce a lot of water through tapping, and it's best to tap them in the late winter.

Wild Grapevine

Wild grapevine is a plant that doesn't really need to get tapped to access its water, but the process is similar. It doesn't have a single, vertical trunk like regular trees.

It's a vine - it snakes and envelopes other trees. Make sure you can identify wild grapevine and don't attempt to drink sap from any vines you're not sure about (many of them are poisonous!).

This plant can be found growing along roadsides, fences, vacant urban lots, river banks, and in deep forests.

To "tap" the grapevine, you only need a knife and a container to catch the water. Find a low-hanging bend in the vine - this is where most of the water inside the plant is will run to - and cut a deep notch into it until you see the sap dripping.

Place your container under the notch and prepare to receive a lot of water. You can fill a small canteen in about an hour, making this plant one of the best when you need to get water quickly. The sap of a wild grapevine tastes very much like regular water, and it'll quench your thirst fast.

There are many ways you can extract water from plants in the wilderness. Every plant technically has water inside it, it's just a matter of finding the plants that can give you a lot of water quickly, and won't poison you in the process.

The most important skill you can develop is recognizing safe plants from poisonous plants. Once you know that, you can attempt the condensation or the tapping method on any of the "safe" plants to extract water long enough to survive on your own.
You may also like: 5 Best Guns to Have Against Looting Rioters

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8 Plants You Can Extract Water From (In The Wilderness)

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People underestimate how much water they need to survive. One of the most important things you can learn is how to extract water from plants.

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12 Edible Bugs That Could Help You Survive

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When you're in the wild and need an emergency meal, these 12 edible bugs can be eaten for survival. Here's how to catch and prepare them.

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1. Build and repair the back wall on the big fort. | K&A

2. Making the base sturdy. | K&A

3. Clean the base out. | A

4. Final touches like filling in holes. | K

5. Repeat with other bases. | K&A

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All people on your team have the things they are good at so use that to your advantage when you have a problem.

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​Be Fair and Impartial

Even if you agree with one or more individuals in a conflicting team, make sure that you remain objective. Your role is to address the issue cauding the conflict and to reach a solution that works for all parties.

Treat each person fairly. Give everyone the time and opportunity to present their own perspective and to respond to any criticism. It's vital that all parties can state their case and are listened to.

Step in When Needed

Don't allow individuals to hijack the conversation or to dominate more-reserved colleagues. If one person is constantly talking over others, keep your questions directed at the person being interrupted.

If people still attempt to interrupt, politely ask them to wait until their co-worker has finished before inviting their point of view.

Avoid Assumptions

When facilitating a conflict discussion, avoid stating as facts things that you only think you know or may have heard. For example, it's best to use phrases like, "As far as I'm aware," or, "As I understand it."

This also allows for the possibility that your understanding is wrong or incomplete. And it creates an opportunity for the conflicting parties to restate their cases and clarify misunderstandings.

Managing Conflict in the Workplace in Five Steps

When a situation gets out of hand, you may need to step in as a direct facilitator, with a targeted approach to resolving team conflict.

You can follow these five steps, which we've adapted from a framework used by the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development (CIPD). [1]

1. Speak to Team Members Individually

Start by having an informal one-on-one with each team member involved in the conflict. This way you can hear people's concerns in a safe, confidential setting. In these meetings:

Avoid making assumptions and let people open up in their own time.

Reassure them that the discussion is confidential.

Ask each party the same questions, to remain impartial.

2. Bring People Together

Once you've got a better understanding of the conflict and everyone's perspectives, it's time to bring the relevant parties together and act as a moderator.

Set some ground rules before getting the conversation underway. Encourage team members to listen to one another, respect each other's points of view, and not interrupt or make personal comments. During the conversation:

Keep the tone of the conversation calm and non-threatening.

Encourage active listening, so people understand where the other person is coming from.

Encourage individuals to share ideas. What do they want or need? What would they be prepared to commit to? Have them to brainstorm some solutions.

Ask them about situations where they've worked well together in the past. See if they can build on those positive experiences.

3. Ask the Wider Team for Ideas

When a conflict affects the whole team, provided it's not sensitive or confidential, you can ask for everyone's perspective.

4. Draw up a Plan

Ask the parties to detail agreed-on actions for reconciliation. And get each to commit to this strategy. You can draw up a timetable for actions, ticking them off as and when they are achieved. Hold all relevant parties accountable.

5. Follow up

Seek Guidance and Support

When you're faced with a challenging conflict in your team and are unsure how to handle it, seek support from a trusted colleague, your line manager, or your HR department.

If your efforts at conflict resolution don't work, you'll need to be willing to pursue formal procedures if necessary. And some situations, such as harassment, discrimination or bullying, require a formal disciplinary process to be followed. In these instances, or if you are in any doubt, liaise with your HR team for advice.

Reflect on Your Conflict Management Skills

Now think about structural or procedural improvements you can make to prevent future conflict. These could be:

Setting clear goals for every team member - when people experience the right amount of pressure, they perform well.

Make sure that people's responsibilities match their skills. Offer learning and development opportunities to plug skills gaps and help your people to realize their career aspirations.

Using regular one-on-ones to sound out potential sources of future conflict.

As the CIPD concludes, the key to resolving conflict is to, "Build an environment in your team that is open, respectful, kind, fair and consistent, in which people feel 'psychologically safe.'"

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How to Manage Workplace Conflict - Handling Team Conflict Effectively

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Team conflict is one of the most daunting challenges for a manager. Discover five steps to resolve team conflict.

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we need a presidental republic and elect a presendent 

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we need a presidental republic and elect a presendent 

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https://www.whitehouse.gov/about-the-white-house/presidents/

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In the early morning you can use the dew that is on the plants by using your shirt or a piece of clothing to absorb the water.

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. You can easily go a day without food, and usually don't need shelter right away, unless you're in freezing conditions. Not having any water for 24 hours, however, while survivable, depletes both your physical and mental strength, making it more difficult to perform the tasks necessary to making it out the other side. And after just three days without hydration, your body will shut down, and it'll be lights out for you.

With about two liters per day your body will be able circulate blood, process food, regulate body temperature (which prevents hypo- and hyperthermia), think clearly, and successfully carry out a host of other internal processes.

You can see how crucial water is to your survival. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet. In today's article, we'll walk you through several methods for finding water that will work for temperate climates and a variety of others, as well as methods that are particularly suited for tropical, freezing, and desert regions.

A Note Before Starting: Always Filter

Any survival expert will tell you that no matter where you find water in the wild - be it from streams, lakes, condensation on plants, etc. - it should always be filtered or purified before drinking. Now, in many cases this isn't possible, as you may not have the right supplies on you. Just know that any water you ingest without purifying could carry harmful bacteria, and is a risk on your part. If your choice is life or death, that's a risk you're most definitely going to take. Some water collection methods are safer for straight drinking than others; we'll outline those below.

General Methods and Tips for Finding Water in the Wild

The following tips work especially well in temperate and tropical areas, but many also apply to other climates too.

Start With the Obvious: Streams, Rivers, Lakes

These are your most obvious sources of water in the wild. Clear, flowing water is your best option, as the movement doesn't allow bacteria to fester. This means that small streams should be what you look for first. Rivers are acceptable, but larger ones often have a lot of pollution from upstream. Lakes and ponds are okay, but they're stagnant, meaning there's an increased chance for bacteria.

Now then, how do you go about finding these bodies of water? First, use your senses. If you stand perfectly still and listen intently, you may be able to hear running water, even if it's a great distance away.

Next you'll use your eyes to try and find animal tracks, which could lead to water. Insect swarms, while annoying, are another sign of water close by. And in the mornings and evenings especially, following the flight path of birds may lead you to your much-needed H2O. Watching animal behavior is especially important in the desert. Animal tracks will be easier to spot in the sand, and they'll almost always eventually lead to water. Birds will also especially flock towards water in dry areas.

Also just scout the environment you're in. Water runs downhill, so follow valleys, ditches, gullies, etc. Find your way to low ground, and you'll often run into water.

Collect Rainwater

Collecting and drinking rainwater is one of the safest ways to get hydrated without the risk of bacterial infection. This is especially true in wild, rural areas (in urban centers, the rain first travels through pollution, emissions, etc.).

There are two primary methods of collecting rainwater. The first is to use any and all containers you might have on you. The second is to tie the corners of a poncho or tarp around trees a few feet off the ground, place a small rock in the center to create a depression, and let the water collect.

You can combine these methods and make your containers more effective by tying the poncho or tarp to funnel into your bottle or pot or whatever you have (as long as it doesn't overflow and waste water!).

Collect Heavy Morning Dew

Looking for a way to collect up to a liter of water per hour? Tie some absorbent clothes/cloths or tufts of fine grass around your ankles, and take a pre-sunrise walk through tall grass, meadows, etc. Wring out the water when the cloths are saturated, and repeat. Just be sure you aren't collecting dew from any poisonous plants.

Fruits/Vegetation

Fruits, vegetables, cacti, fleshy/pulpy plants, even roots contain a lot of water. With any of these, you can simply collect the plants, place them into some kind of container, and smash them into a pulp with a rock to collect their liquid. It won't be much, but in desperate situations, every little bit helps.

This method is especially helpful in tropical environments where fruits and vegetation are abundant. Coconuts can be an excellent source of hydration. Unripe, green coconuts are actually better, though, as the milk of ripe coconuts acts as a laxative, which will just further dehydrate you.

Collect Plant Transpiration

Another easy option for water collection is taking advantage of plant transpiration. This is the process in which moisture is carried from a plant's roots, to the underside of its leaves. From there, it vaporizes into the atmosphere; but, you're going to catch the water before it does that.

First thing in the morning, tie a bag (or something you can make into a bag; the larger the better) around a leafy green tree branch or shrub. Place a rock in the bag to weigh it down a little bit so the water has a place to collect. Over the course of the day, the plant transpires, and produces moisture. Rather than vaporizing into the atmosphere, though, it collects at the bottom of your bag. Never do this with a poisonous plant.

Tree Crotches/Rock Crevices

Like with fruits/vegetation, this is another source that won't provide all that much water, but again, it's definitely something when the straits are dire - particularly when you're stranded in a desert. The crotches of tree limbs, or the crevices of rocks can be small collecting places for water. In an arid area, bird droppings around a rock crevice may indicate the presence of water inside, even if it can't be seen. To remove water from crotches and cracks, stick a piece of clothing or cloth in, let it soak up any moisture, and wring it out. Repeat if you can, and return after a rain for a fresh supply.

Dig an Underground Still

The benefit of creating a still is that it provides a reliable, fairly substantial source of water (compared to other methods), and you know roughly how much you'll be getting, which helps you plan and ration better.

There are aboveground and underground varieties of sills; the underground is your best bet as it collects more water, but the aboveground variety can be useful if you're extremely energy-depleted and can't dig a large hole. Click here to see instructions for doing that (page 58).

Directions for your underground still:
Supplies

Container (the largest you have)

Clear plastic sheeting

Digging tool

Rocks

Optional: something to act as a drinking tube/straw (CamelBak straw, bamboo/other plant)

Instructions

1. Find an area that gets sunlight most of the day.

2. Dig a bowl-like pit 3' wide by 2' deep. Dig an additional small hole within that for the container.

3. Optional: Attach the drinking tube to the bottom of the container. If you don't have one, skip this step.

4. Place the container in the pit, and run the tubing up out of the hole.

5. Cover the hole with plastic, and use rocks and soil to keep it in place.

6. Put a small rock in the center of your sheet, so that it hangs and forms an inverted cone over the container.

7. If you have a tube, drink straight from it. Otherwise, collect the container from the bottom, and replace it when you've stored the water elsewhere.

There's almost always moisture in the ground at that depth. That will react with the sun's heat to produce condensation, which will collect on the plastic. The inverted cone forces that condensation down into your container. You can expect to gather .5-1 liter per day, so you'd need more than one (or another source) to account for an entire day's supply.

Cold/Snowy-Specific Tips

Melt Snow and Ice

Especially in the mountains, snow and ice are abundant well into the summer months, and sometimes all year round. If you're by or on the ocean in a polar region, look to icebergs for a source of fresh water and for "old ice" that has been through rains and thaws. As opposed to salty ice, which is opaque and gray, freshwater ice has a bluish color and crystalline structure, and splinters easily with a knife.

If you're in a boat and surrounded by salt water, capture some in a container, and allow it to freeze. The fresh water will freeze first, while the salt will accumulate as slush in the middle. Remove the ice and discard the slush.

While snow and ice provide an excellent source of water, it should always be melted and purified first. Eating straight snow/ice will lower your body temperature, which dehydrates you because it forces your metabolic rate to speed up in order to keep you warm.

The best way to melt snow/ice and make it actually taste good is to simply mix it with other water you may have, even small amounts, and slosh it around until the snow melts. If you are heating it, add a little bit of other water to it; heating snow/ice directly can actually scorch it and produce a foul-tasting drink.

Desert-Specific Tips

In temperate, tropical, and frozen/icy climes, finding and collecting water is likely to happen within your 3-day window. Your primary concern is going to be collecting, storing, and purifying it. In desert environments though, simply finding a water source can be enormously difficult. Here a few tips specifically for arid environs:

Dig Wells

Start digging. Anywhere you see dampness on the ground or green vegetation, dig a large hole a few feet deep, and you'll likely get water seeping in. The same is true at the feet of cliffs, in dry river beds, at the first depression behind the first sand dune of dry desert lakes, and in valleys/low areas. You may not be successful, but you just might. This water will of course be rather muddy, so it will especially need filtering/purifying, but you'll have a water source nonetheless.

Collect Condensation from Metal

Extreme temperature variations between night and day can cause condensation on metal surfaces. Before the sun rises and vaporizes that moisture, collect it with absorbent cloth. This also means you should be placing your metal items in the open rather than stored in your pack.

Beach-Specific Tips

Dig a Beach Well

If you're stranded on land near a body of saltwater, you can still attain fresh water by digging a well on the beach. Behind the first sand dune - typically about 100 feet from shore - dig a 3-5' hole. Line the bottom with rocks, and the sides with wood (driftwood, most likely). This allows the well to fill up without collapsing or having too much sand in the water. In a few hours, you'll have a well full of fresh water - a combination of collected rainwater (which runs down the dunes), and sand-filtered ocean water. If it tastes salty, you simply move a little further away from shore.

A variation of this method is to let the water seep in, but then heat some additional rocks and drop them in the water. This will create steam, which can be collected by holding an absorbent cloth over the well. Wring out the cloth and repeat. This ensures that your water is free of all salt and other contaminants, but you will yield less.

Avoid Water Substitutes

In any desperate survival scenario, you may be tempted to try non-water liquids as a substitute for the real thing. In all but the most dire of situations, these should be avoided. In general, non-water substitutes only worsen your heath and vigor. These substitutes, and their harmful characteristics below:

Alcohol. Dehydrates and clouds judgment.

Urine. Contains harmful body waste and is about 2% salt.

Blood. May transmit disease. Also has high salt content.

Seawater/Sea Ice. Contains 4% salt. It takes more water to rid your body of the waste from seawater than what you get from it. Just depletes your body's H2O supply.

Of course, if you're a Bear Grylls fan, you'll know he famously drank his own urine while in the Sahara Desert. Is this safe to do, or was that for entertainment purposes? If you're down to your very last resort, drinking your urine can keep you alive for another day or two. It's 95% water, but that other 5% is comprised of waste products that will ultimately lead to kidney failure if subsisted on for more than a very short period of time. And of course as you get more dehydrated, this method becomes even more dangerous.

Before you resort to drinking your own pee, exhaust all the methods outlined above first. With a little effort, knowledge, and ingenuity, there's a good chance you'll be able to find genuine H2O.
For even more tips about developing your nature instinct, check out our podcast with Tristan Gooley:

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet.

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1.find a wooden spot and a open spot

2.make shelter in the wooded and put fire and cactus/bright colors there

3.do it

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"These guys are not to be taken lightly. Measuring 2 to 3 inches, this hornet carries a toxin that often leads to paralysis, kidney failure, and death, oftentimes a slow one, in those that are bitten. Much like mosquitoes, this Asian pest is attracted to humans who sweat, drink alcohol, smell sweet, or are running.  So when vacationing in Asia, consider this hornet when you are deciding on activities."

7. Bees

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" Grizzly and polar bears are the most dangerous, but Eurasian brown bears and American black bears have also been known to attack humans. Some species depredate livestock on occasion, and some bears, such as Asiatic and American black bears, may destroy fruit or other crops, especially corn."

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Mammals are the soft, cuddly creatures of the animal kingdom. Often, mammals are the animals people are most familiar with. They are employed as working animals in the fields, as guards and companions in homes, and their visages inspire the stuffed animals on the beds and in the arms of young children. Some mammals, however, can kill.

T

he reality is that most of the world's roughly 5,000 mammals are smaller than people. They would just as soon run away and hide rather than attack a human being. Yet lions, tigers, bears, and others are known for being ferocious and vicious, especially when hungry or provoked. These and other mammals are featured in fairytales and children's stories that emphasize the violence they are capable of.
But what about the others, the "domesticated" and "tame" ones? Are they capable of horrific violence as well? The answers may surprise you.

Dogs (Canis lupus familiaris)

For more than 12,000 years it has lived with humans as a hunting companion, protector, object of scorn or adoration, and friend. The dog evolved from the gray wolf into more than 400 distinct breeds. Human beings have played a major role in creating dogs that fulfill distinct societal needs. Dogs are regarded differently in different parts of the world. Characteristics of loyalty, friendship, protectiveness, and affection have earned dogs an important position in Western society, and in the United States and Europe the care and feeding of dogs has become a multibillion-dollar business. Western civilization has given the relationship between human and dog great importance, but, in some of the developing nations and in many areas of Asia, dogs are not held in the same esteem. In some areas of the world, dogs are used as guards or beasts of burden or even for food, whereas in the United States and Europe dogs are protected and admired. In ancient Egypt during the days of the pharaohs, dogs were considered to be sacred.

Despite the close association between dogs and humans, dog attacks on humans are fairly common. Between 1982 and 2013, some 466 people were killed by dogs in Canada and the United States. Over the same period, there were more than 4,100 dog attacks in the region, which resulted in more than 2,400 cases of maiming.

Lions (Panthera leo)

Lioness with cubs (Panthera leo).© Digital Vision/Getty Images

Lions prey on a large variety of animals ranging in size from rodents and baboons to water buffalo and hippopotamuses, but they predominantly hunt medium- to large-sized hoofed animals such as wildebeests, zebras, and antelopes. Prey preferences vary geographically as well as between neighboring prides. Lions are known to take elephants and giraffes, but only if the individual is young or especially sick. They readily eat any meat they can find, including carrion and fresh kills that they scavenge or forcefully steal from hyenas, cheetahs, or wild dogs. Lionesses living in open savanna do most of the hunting, whereas males typically appropriate their meals from the female's kills. However, male lions are also adept hunters, and in some areas they hunt frequently. Pride males in scrub or wooded habitat spend less time with the females and hunt most of their own meals. Nomadic males must always secure their own food.

Though a group of hunting lions is potentially nature's most formidable predatory force on land, a high proportion of their hunts fail. The cats pay no attention to the wind's direction (which can carry their scent to their prey), and they tire after running short distances. Typically, they stalk prey from nearby cover and then burst forth to run it down in a short, rapid rush. After leaping on the prey, the lion lunges at its neck and bites until the animal has been strangled. Other members of the pride quickly crowd around to feed on the kill, usually fighting for access. Hunts are sometimes conducted in groups, with members of a pride encircling a herd or approaching it from opposite directions, then closing in for a kill in the resulting panic. The cats typically gorge themselves and then rest for several days in its vicinity. An adult male can consume more than 34 kg (75 pounds) of meat at a single meal and rest for a week before resuming the hunt. If prey is abundant, both sexes typically spend 21 to 22 hours a day resting, sleeping, or sitting, and hunt for only 2 or 3 hours a day.

Nature reported that 871 people in Tanzania were attacked by lions between 1990 and 2005. One of the most frightening series of attacks took place Kenya in 1898 in which two lions killed dozens of railway workers before the pair were shot. Between 1932 and 1947, perhaps as many as 1,500 people were killed by an aggressive pride of lions near the town of Njombe, Tanzania. Today, lions kill approximately 100 people per year in Tanzania.

Bears (Family Ursidae)

Although clumsy in appearance, bears can move surprisingly fast, even through dense cover that would seriously impede a human or a horse. Their senses of sight and hearing, however, are poorly developed, and most hunting is done by smell. Some, such as black and spectacled bears, are strong climbers, and all are strong swimmers, most notably the polar bear. Bears do not generally communicate by sound and usually are quiet, but they do growl at times when feeding, when being challenged by another bear or by humans, and when competing for mates.

Except for the carnivorous polar bear and the vegetarian giant panda, bears are omnivorous, consuming many items that may seem small for an animal of such large size. Ants, bees, seeds of trees, roots, nuts, berries, insect larvae such as grubs, and even the dainty dogtooth violet are eaten. Many bears relish honey, and the sun bear is sometimes called the "honey bear" because of this. Prey taken by bears includes rodents, fish, deer, pigs, and seals. Grizzlies (North American subspecies of the brown bear, Ursus arctos) are known for their skillful fishing during the spawning runs of salmon. The polar bear's diet is dictated by the Arctic environment, as little vegetation grows within its range. The Asian sloth bear ( Melursus ursinus) delights especially in raiding and destroying termite nests, sucking up termites and larvae with its funnel-like lips. The giant panda has a special bone formation of the forefoot that functions as a sixth digit; it is opposable to the other five and thus is useful in handling bamboo.

If captured when young, bears can be tamed quite easily and are commonly used in circus animal acts. This has often caused people to consider bears as tame and harmless rather than as potentially dangerous creatures deserving wariness and respect. This mistake has frequently resulted in tragedy for both humans and bears. Grizzly and polar bears are the most dangerous, but Eurasian brown bears and American black bears have also been known to attack humans. Some species depredate livestock on occasion, and some bears, such as Asiatic and American black bears, may destroy fruit or other crops, especially corn.

Hippopotamuses (Hippopotamus amphibius)

Hippopotamuses (Hippopotamus amphibius).© Alan Weaving/Ardea London

Hippopotamus is Greek for "river horse," and the animal has been known since ancient times. Hippopotamuses are often seen basking on the banks or sleeping in the waters of rivers, lakes, and swamps next to grasslands. The hippopotamus has a bulky body on stumpy legs, an enormous head, a short tail, and four toes on each foot. Each toe has a nail-like hoof.

Hippos are well adapted to aquatic life. The ears, eyes, and nostrils are located high on the head so that the rest of the body may remain submerged. The ears and nostrils can be folded shut to keep out water. The body is so dense that they can walk underwater, where they can hold their breath for five minutes. Although often seen basking in the sun, hippos lose water rapidly through the skin and become dehydrated without periodic dips. They must also retreat to the water to keep cool, for they do not sweat. Numerous skin glands release a pinkish "lotion," which led to the ancient myth that hippos sweat blood; this pigment actually acts as a sunblock, filtering out ultraviolet radiation.

Accounts recording the number of human deaths per year by hippo attack range from about 500 to about 3,000. It is thought that hippo attacks on small boats are antipredator behavior, with the hippos mistaking them for crocodiles. As a result, hippos have long had a largely undeserved reputation as aggressive animals. Cows live in "schools," but they are not permanently associated with other cows, though sometimes they maintain bonds with offspring for some years. Longevity is up to 49 years in captivity but rarely more than 40 in the wild.

Tigers (Panthera tigris)

The tiger is the largest member of the cat family (Felidae), rivaled only by the lion ( Panthera leo) in strength and ferocity. Ranging from the Russian Far East through parts of North Korea, China, India, and Southeast Asia to the Indonesian island of Sumatra, all six remaining subspecies are endangered. The Siberian, or Amur, tiger ( P. tigris altaica) is the largest, measuring up to 4 meters (13 feet) in total length and weighing up to 300 kg (660 pounds). The Indian, or Bengal, tiger ( P. tigris tigris) is the most numerous and accounts for about half of the total tiger population.

Next to the elephant and the lion, no wild animal is so frequently portrayed in Asian art and lore. The persistent practices of using tiger parts as talismans, tonics, or medicine, despite all scientific evidence contrary to their efficacy, are manifestations of beliefs that emanate from the aura of the tiger and the awe that it has inspired for millennia. Certain animist communities still worship the tiger. Every 12th year of the Chinese calendar is the year of the tiger, and children born in it are considered especially lucky and powerful. In Hindu mythology the tiger is the vahana ("vehicle") of the goddess Durga. Tigers are represented on seals from the ancient Indus civilization. The greatest of the Gupta emperors of ancient India, Samudra, minted special gold coins depicting him slaying tigers. Tippu Sultan even vented his frustration at his inability to defeat the British by ordering a special life-size toy, replete with sound, of a tiger mauling a British soldier.

In India, tigers have a history of attacking human visitors to zoos who either enter or place their hands into tiger enclosures. Tigers are also known to attack people in the wild, especially in the Sundarbans, a region of forests and swampland straddling the border between India and Bangladesh. By some accounts, 50 to 250 people per year are killed in the Sundarbans by tigers.

Horses (Equus caballus)

The relationship of the horse to humans has been unique. The horse is a partner and friend. It has plowed fields and brought in the harvest, hauled goods and conveyed passengers, followed game and tracked cattle, and carried combatants into battle and adventurers to unknown lands. It has provided recreation in the form of jousts, tournaments, carousels, and the sport of riding. The influence of the horse is expressed in the English language in such terms as chivalry and cavalier (coming from the Latin caballarius, "horseman"), which connote honor, respect, good manners, and straightforwardness.

The horse is the "proudest conquest of Man," according to the French zoologist Georges-Louis Leclerc, comte de Buffon. Its place was at its master's side in the graves of the Scythian kings or in the tombs of the pharaohs. Many early human cultures were centered on possession of the horse. Superstition read meaning into the colors of the horse, and a horse's head suspended near a grave or sanctuary or on the gables of a house conferred supernatural powers on the place. Greek mythology created the centaur, the most obvious symbol of the oneness of horse and rider. White stallions were the supreme sacrifice to the gods, and the Greek general Xenophon recorded that "gods and heroes are depicted on well-trained horses."

Despite being held in such high esteem, horses kill roughly 100 people in the United States each year in riding accidents and other equestrian-related activities. Matched against horse ridership (some 7 million or so), the risk of death is very small, however.

Deer (Order Artiodactyla)

Worldwide, deer make up any of 43 species of hoofed ruminants in the order Artiodactyla, notable for having two large and two small hooves on each foot and also for having antlers in the males of most species and in the females of one species. Deer are native to all continents except Australia and Antarctica, and many species have been widely introduced beyond their original habitats as game animals. One species, the reindeer (also known as the caribou), has been domesticated. Some swamp and island species are endangered, but most continental species are flourishing under protection and good management. Deer, when granted some protection, readily exploit man-made disturbances caused by agriculture, forestry, and urbanization. White-tailed deer, normally a cherished North American game animal, have even become pests in suburbs and cities in the United States and Canada.

Still, deer are common residents in urban and suburban landscapes, and unwary deer frequently cause automobile accidents on roads. According to one major insurance provider, hundreds of thousands of deer-vehicle accidents happen in the United States each year, resulting in millions of dollars of damage to cars and trucks and about 200 deaths.

Elephants (Family Elephantidae)

Elephants are the largest living land animals. They are known by their long trunk (elongated upper lip and nose), columnar legs, and huge heads with temporal glands and wide, flat ears. Elephants are grayish to brown in color, and their body hair is sparse and coarse. They are found most often in savannas, grasslands, and forests but occupy a wide range of habitats, including deserts, swamps, and highlands in tropical and subtropical regions of Africa and Asia. The three living species of elephants are related to prehistoric woolly mammoths and mastodons. The African savanna, or bush, elephant ( Loxodonta africana) weighs up to 8,000 kg (9 tons) and stands 3 to 4 meters (10 to 13 feet) at the shoulder. The African forest elephant ( Loxodonta cyclotis), which lives in rainforests, was recognized as a separate species in 2000 and is smaller than the savanna elephant. It has slender, downward-pointing tusks. The common belief that there existed "pygmy" and "water" elephants has no basis; they are probably varieties of the African forest elephants. The Asian elephant ( Elephas maximus) weighs about 5,500 kg and has a shoulder height of up to 3.5 meters.

For many centuries the Asian elephant has been important as a ceremonial and draft animal. Technically, elephants have not been domesticated, for they have not been subjected to selective breeding for "improvement" of traits desired by humans, as has been the practice with cattle, horses, and dogs. Historical records of tamed Asian elephants date to the Indus civilization. At Mohenjo-daro and Harappa, Pakistan, soapstone carvings depict elephants with cloth on their backs, which indicates use by humans. Mahouts and oozies (elephant trainers in India and Myanmar, respectively) are skilled people who remain in direct contact with the animals for many years. The handlers take care of all the elephants' needs, and the bond between man and beast becomes very strong. Hastividyarama, an age-old handbook for elephant tamers, spells out prescribed training procedures in detail and is still used today in some parts of Asia. Commanded by its mahout, the elephant was once basic to Southeast Asian logging operations. It remains a symbol of power and pageantry but has been largely supplanted by machinery. At the beginning of the 21st century, Thailand and Myanmar each had about 5,000 captive elephants employed in traditional roles intermingled with modern use as tourist attractions.

Human deaths due to elephants range from about 100 to more than 500 per year. Elephants have been known to raid villages or croplands in South Asia, and sometimes gore or step on humans that get in the way. Their sheer size and weight is enough to deliver a lethal blow from one strike.

Human beings (Homo sapiens)

Human beings are culture-bearing primates that are both anatomically similar and closely related to the other great apes. They are distinguished from other great apes by a more highly developed brain and a resultant capacity for articulate speech and abstract reasoning. In addition, human beings display a marked erectness of body carriage that frees the hands for use as manipulative members. Some of these characteristics, however, are not entirely unique to humans. The gap in cognition, as in anatomy, between humans and the other great apes (orangutans, gorillas, and chimpanzees) is much less than was once thought, as these primates have been shown to possess a variety of advanced cognitive abilities formerly believed to be restricted to humans.

One thing that cannot be argued is that human beings are the world's most efficient killers of other humans. Globally, an estimated 56 million people die per year when all causes of death are considered. Roughly 526,000 people are killed by armed violence. Roughly 75% of these deaths are classified as intentional homicides. In addition, some 54,000 humans succumb to unintentional violent deaths, and 55,000 people die per year as a result of war and terrorism.

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This Encyclopedia Britannica animals list features 9 deadly mammals.

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"Put your tinder nest on the ground or with your kindling, then aim the beam of the sun at the tinder nest until it begins to smoke. When it starts smoking, gently blow on the tinder nest until you produce a flame.

Using a magnifying glass to start a fire is easy, but it depends upon having a decent amount of sunlight."

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6 Ways to Start a Fire Without Matches or a Lighter

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It's good to know more than one way to start a fire when you spend a lot of time in the great outdoors.

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''What do mosquitoes hate?

Mosquitoes hate strong scents such as citronella, eucalyptus, lavender, and peppermint. Using products with these scents can help deter mosquitoes.

What works to keep mosquitoes away?

Effective methods to keep mosquitoes away include using mosquito repellents containing DEET or other EPA-approved ingredients, wearing long sleeves and pants, eliminating standing water, and using mosquito nets or fans.

What makes mosquitoes go away naturally?

Mosquitoes can be naturally deterred by using repellents with essential oils, removing standing water, keeping the surrounding area clean, and using mosquito traps or netting.''

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When it comes to outdoor mosquito control, home remedies can be a cost-effective and natural solution. These remedies help keep mosquitoes at bay and provide a safer alternative to chemical-based insecticides. Let's explore ten effective home remedies for controlling mosquitoes and creating a mosquito-free environment.

Reasons To Use Homemade Mosquito Repellents

Using homemade mosquito repellents offers several advantages:

1. They are often made with natural ingredients, reducing exposure to harmful chemicals.

2. They can be easily customize to suit individual preferences and sensitivities.

3. Homemade repellents are often budget-friendly, saving you money while effectively repelling mosquitoes.

Natural Mosquito Repellents - Essential Oils, Plants, and Herbs

Certain essential oils, plants, and herbs have natural mosquito-repellent properties. Essential oils like citronella, lemongrass, and lavender can be used in DIY repellent sprays or diffusers. Plants such as marigolds, basil, and rosemary can naturally be grown in your garden to deter mosquitoes. Herbs like peppermint and eucalyptus can also be used as effective mosquito repellents.

DIY Mosquito Traps - Effective Ways To Catch Mosquitoes

Mosquito traps are a popular method for capturing and reducing mosquito populations. DIY mosquito traps can be created using simple household items like empty plastic bottles, sugar water, and yeast. These traps attract mosquitoes, helping control their numbers in your outdoor spaces.

Mosquito-Proofing Your Home - Tips For Keeping Mosquitoes Out

Preventing mosquitoes from entering your home is essential for outdoor mosquito control:

1. Ensure all doors and windows have properly fitted screens to keep mosquitoes out.

2. Eliminate any standing water sources in and around your home, as they serve as breeding grounds for mosquitoes.

3. Keep your surroundings clean and tidy to minimize mosquito hiding spots.

Natural Mosquito Larvicides: Get Rid Of Mosquitoes In Standing Water

Eliminating stagnant water is essential for successful mosquito control since it serves as a breeding ground for these insects. Natural mosquito larvicides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis releases (BTI) or mosquito dunks, can be used in standing water to kill mosquito larvae. These larvicides are safe for humans and wildlife, targeting only mosquito larvae.

Mosquito Control For Your Yard

Creating a mosquito-free yard requires a multi-faceted approach. Start by removing stagnant water sources, trimming overgrown vegetation, and regularly mowing the lawn. Next, incorporate mosquito-repellent plants into your landscaping, such as citronella grass, lemon balm, or catnip. Finally, consider using outdoor fans or mosquito netting to create a protective barrier.

Repel Mosquitoes With These Home Remedies

Several home remedies can effectively repel mosquitoes. For example, lemon eucalyptus oil and witch hazel can be used as a natural repellent spray. Applying a paste made of garlic and water to exposed skin can also help keep mosquitoes at bay. Burning citronella candles or incorporating mosquito-repellent herbs into outdoor gatherings are additional strategies.

FAQ

What is the best homemade mosquito killer?

A famous homemade mosquito killer combines apple cider vinegar, sugar, and dish soap. Unfortunately, the sweet scent attracts mosquitoes, and the dish soap disrupts their surface tension, causing them to drown in the solution.

What home remedy kills mosquitoes?

A simple home remedy for killing mosquitoes is to create a solution using equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol. Then, spray this mixture directly on mosquitoes to eliminate them.

What smell do mosquitoes hate?

Mosquitoes dislike the scent of citronella, lavender, eucalyptus, peppermint, and lemon. Using products with these scents can help repel mosquitoes.

How do you make homemade mosquito repellent?

To make homemade mosquito repellent, combine a carrier oil like coconut or olive oil with essential oils such as citronella, eucalyptus, or lavender. Then, apply this mixture to exposed skin for protection against mosquitoes.

Can vinegar keep mosquitoes away?

Vinegar, particularly apple cider vinegar, has a strong scent that repels mosquitoes. Creating and spraying a vinegar solution or placing vinegar-soaked cotton balls around your outdoor area can help keep mosquitoes away.

Does Pine-Sol keep mosquitoes away?

Pine-Sol is not a proven mosquito repellent. While it may have a strong scent, it does not contain ingredients known to repel mosquitoes effectively.

What do mosquitoes hate?

Mosquitoes hate strong scents such as citronella, eucalyptus, lavender, and peppermint. Using products with these scents can help deter mosquitoes.

What works to keep mosquitoes away?

Effective methods to keep mosquitoes away include using mosquito repellents containing DEET or other EPA-approved ingredients, wearing long sleeves and pants, eliminating standing water, and using mosquito nets or fans.

What makes mosquitoes go away naturally?

Mosquitoes can be naturally deterred by using repellents with essential oils, removing standing water, keeping the surrounding area clean, and using mosquito traps or netting.

Do dryer sheets repel mosquitoes?

While some believe dryer sheets can repel mosquitoes, limited scientific evidence supports this claim. Therefore, it is more effective to use proven mosquito repellents.

What liquid do mosquitoes hate?

Mosquitoes dislike the scent of certain liquids, such as vinegar, garlic water, or essential oils like citronella, eucalyptus, or lavender. Using these liquids can help repel mosquitoes.

What do mosquitoes hate the worst?

Mosquitoes have an aversion to scents like citronella, garlic, and certain essential oils. They also avoid areas with moving air or fans, making it difficult for them to fly.

How do you make bug spray with Dawn dish soap?

Mix two tablespoons of Dawn dish soap with a gallon of water to make bug spray with Dawn dish soap. Transfer the solution into a spray bottle & utilize it as a spray for repelling mosquitoes.

How do I keep mosquitoes away from my outside?

To keep mosquitoes away from your outdoor area, eliminate standing water, use mosquito repellents, install screens on doors and windows, trim vegetation, and consider using mosquito traps or nets.

Does hydrogen peroxide keep mosquitoes away?

Hydrogen peroxide is not an effective mosquito repellent. It is primarily used for disinfecting wounds and surfaces.

How much vinegar do I need to keep mosquitoes away?

To use vinegar as a mosquito repellent, create a solution of equal water and vinegar. Then, apply the answer to a spray bottle to your skin or surrounding areas to repel mosquitoes.

Does rubbing alcohol keep mosquitoes away?

Rubbing alcohol does not effectively repel mosquitoes. Instead, using proven mosquito repellents containing DEET or other EPA-approved ingredients is more advisable.

How do I get rid of mosquitoes overnight?

Getting rid of mosquitoes overnight is challenging, but several steps can help. Eliminate standing water, use mosquito repellents, set up mosquito traps or nets, and consider using outdoor fans or screens to create a mosquito-free environment.

Is baking soda a good mosquito repellent?

Baking soda is not a known mosquito repellent. It is primarily used for cooking, cleaning, and other household purposes.

Do mosquitoes hate apple cider vinegar?

Mosquitoes dislike the scent of apple cider vinegar. However, using apple cider vinegar as a spray or placing vinegar-soaked cotton balls around your outdoor area can help repel mosquitoes.

Does spraying Listerine keep mosquitoes away?

Listerine, a mouthwash containing menthol and eucalyptol, has been suggested as a mosquito repellent. However, limited scientific evidence supports its effectiveness as a standalone repellent.

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10 Home Remedies For Mosquito Control - Natural Ways That Work!

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When it comes to outdoor mosquito control, home remedies can be a cost-effective and natural solution. These remedies help keep mosquitoes at bay and provide a safer alternative to chemical-based insecticides.

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1st you want to see how many ingered people and how many people didn't make it. 2nd you want to see if we have any serviving electronics to call for help. 3rd you want to help the people who are severly hurt and deal with the minor ingerys later. 4th you want to find or make shelter. 5th you want to find food like sticks or flower stems to get water  

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what to do if you or someone else has a heart attack

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what to do if you or someone else has a heart attack

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Call 911 or emergency medical help if you think you might be having a heart attack. Someone having a heart attack may have any or all of the following:

Chest pain, pressure or tightness, or a squeezing or aching sensation in the center of the chest

Pain or discomfort that spreads to the shoulder, arm, back, neck, jaw, teeth or occasionally upper abdomen

Nausea, indigestion, heartburn or abdominal pain

Shortness of breath

Lightheadedness, dizziness, fainting

Sweating

A heart attack generally causes chest pain for more than 15 minutes. Some people have mild chest pain, while others have more-severe pain. The discomfort is commonly described as a pressure or chest heaviness, although some people have no chest pain or pressure at all. Women tend to have more-vague symptoms, such as nausea or back or jaw pain.

Some heart attacks strike suddenly, but many people have warning signs hours or days in advance.

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What to do when someone is having a heart attack

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To make a sling, cut a piece of cloth, such as a pillowcase, about 40 inches square. Then cut or fold the square diagonally to make a triangle. Slip one end of the bandage under the arm and over the shoulder. Bring the other end of the bandage over the other shoulder, cradling the arm.

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Emergencies and First Aid - How to Make a Sling - Harvard Health