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British Style Genius, By Royal Appointment – The Country Look, 00:50 26/03/2009, BBC2 England, 60 mins. https://learningonscreen.ac.uk/ondemand/index.php/prog/00BBEB61?bcast=31954007

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Woman, Aged 60:
-would wear day to day
-owns a trench coat
-Can see them still being popular in the future
Woman, Aged 19:
-Would purchase one
-thinks they're practical
-Believes future designs will include smart garment technology to warm the wearer.
Man, Aged 22:
-would wear to work, not casual
-Thinks trench coats are trendy and will continue to be popular
Man, Aged 52:
-owns multiple trench coats
-likes its inclusivity
-can see it staying on trend especially during the winter months.

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'Born on the battlefield, it's now a weapon of fashion'

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-Ranges from £10 on Amazon and Boohoo compared to £1,490 from Burberry
-Therefore reaches a range of audiences

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double breasted finish
10 front buttons
wide lapels
button fastened pockets
belted at the waist
buckled strap
waterproof
usually in khaki
insulated lining
raglan sleeve
heavy duty cotton

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University students help design future trench coats. With the help from the 3D and data team at Burberry.
-They looked at ways to adapt and customise the trench
-Looked into extending longevity

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Hailey Bieber- oversized with tartan lining to colour to a simple outfit.
Blake Lively- Matching trench to co-ordinate with outfit

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It was impossible to fully regulate the dress of each solider for such a large conflict.
While trench coat popularity was not limited to just battlefield use, the qualities embodied by the armed forces did help widen its appeal.

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"Having a mass-produced item for officers became quite normalised"

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Mass production in 1917 due to wide spread popularity. Resulting in cheaper garments.

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It is a fashion classic that has endured through the decades. But away from catwalk shows and Hollywood glamour, the trench coat's first starring role was in World War One kitting out battle-weary soldiers.

From Humphrey Bogart to Audrey Hepburn and Kate Moss, the trench coat is now synonymous with elan and sophistication.

Clocking up countless appearances on the silver screen and in the glossy pages of fashion magazines, it is considered a timeless wardrobe essential.

But while today it adorns the shoulders of supermodels and celebrities, it seems - despite the heavy clue in its name - its origins in bloody battlefields may be less well-appreciated.

"If you read articles about '10 items everyone should have' the trench coat will probably feature along with a pair of jeans and a leather jacket," says Amber Jane Butchart, author, blogger and associate lecturer in cultural and historical studies at London College of Fashion.

"It's become a perennial classic.

"Many people may be surprised about where it comes from, but for centuries fashion has influenced military dress and vice versa."

As World War One took a stranglehold on Europe, the Allies and opposition German forces dug deep with defensive lines stretching from the North Sea to the Swiss border.

There in the trenches as the onslaught raged were the soldiers - caked in mud and battered by biting winds.

Their heavy greatcoats - long wool overcoats which had been regulation garments for British forces since the Crimean War of the 1850s - proved ill-suited to the desperate conditions.

In contrast, the lighter, shorter, waterproof coat produced by English clothing companies such as Burberry and Aquascutum was a perfect fit.

But they were not its only practical benefits.

Epaulettes displayed an officer's rank, while a gun flap buttoned at the chest was designed to provide an amount of additional protection when in combat.

Map cases and other equipment were attached to D-rings on the belt, and covering the upper back area was a storm shield that enabled water to run off the coat cleanly.

Their subdued colour, too, played an important role.

"It became imperative for soldiers to not stand out," says Ms Butchart, who is writing a book examining the links between military wear and fashion.

"Khaki is the Hindi word for dust. Before that, military clothing was incredibly brightly coloured.

"For centuries you needed to recognise the side people were on very easily, so colours like blue and red that were quite easy to dye relatively cheaply got used a lot in European uniforms.

"However, by the time of the African campaigns [in the late 19th Century], warfare was getting more industrialised and those colours were basically putting a target on your soldiers."

Who invented the trench coat?

Two names loom large in the history of the trench coat with both laying claim to having invented the garment

In 1879 Hampshire's Thomas Burberry developed gabardine, a tightly woven, water-repellent cloth which was later used for the forerunner of the trench coat, the Tielocken

To make them waterproof, fabrics had previously been waxed or rubberised - resulting in them becoming heavy, stiff and uncomfortable to wear

In contrast, gabardine was lightweight, weatherproof and 'breathable'

The coats were first used in the Boer War in 1895 - Burberry developed them further and supplied about half a million during World War One

London's Aquascutum, meanwhile, claims to have used designs which later formed the basis for the trench coat as early as the 1850s

Using patented waterproof wool, the firm says its coats were worn by soldiers fighting in the Crimean War

A number of companies advertised variations on the trench coat during World War One including Thresher and Glenny, Gerrish Ames and Simpkins, Kenneth Durward, and David Moseley and Sons

That shift reflected a marked change in the psychology of battle, says Jane Tynan, lecturer in cultural studies at Central Saint Martins in London and author of British Army Uniform and the First World War: Men in Khaki.

"The introduction of the trench coat is really significant - it's a story of clothing becoming part of the technology of warfare.

"Armies' very bright colours were often reminiscent of their flag, but they were also associated with honour.

"In World War One, French soldiers wore red trousers because they felt it was dishonourable to be in camouflage.

"But the British were enthusiastic adopters of khaki from the time of the Indian Mutiny in 1857.

"It went hand in hand with a belief that pragmatism was more important than honour.

"Uniform became a lot more functional and decorative features were less in evidence."

Weighed down by sludge, it was not unusual, Ms Tynan says, for frustrated soldiers to slash away feet of fabric from their greatcoats using bayonets.

The trench coat alleviated that issue, but despite its suitability it was never a regulation garment supplied to each and every soldier.

Adopted by officers who, unlike other ranks, were allowed to procure their own clothes from tailors and outfitters, its use became more widespread from 1917 onwards.

Desperate to clothe an army which had quadrupled in size, the manufacturing of uniforms was put out to trade by the War Office with civilian firms entering into mass production.

It resulted in cheaper garments - a benefit for newly recruited officers, some of whom were less well-off than their predecessors.

It highlights, Ms Tynan argues, an issue that still resonates today with concerns over kit shortages for British soldiers during their recent campaigns in Afghanistan.

"A method previously associated with clothing lower ranks, it presented firms such as Burberry and Aquascutum with a huge opportunity to market the trench coat.

"Having a mass-produced item for officers became quite normalised.

"There are so many myths around soldiers all being clothed and kitted out to the necessary standard, but the reality is very different.

"When you think of the scale of the First World War, you realise it would have been impossible to fully regulate the dress of each soldier for such a large conflict."

While the trench coat's popularity was not restricted to the battlefield, the qualities embodied by the armed forces did help widen its appeal.

"Even during the war you got ads in the Illustrated London News for the Burberry trench coat being sold to men and women," said Ms Butchart.

"It was a unisex item.

"Then when the soldiers returned from battle there was the idea of heroism and patriotism that people wanted to buy into."

But having been firmly rooted in military campaigns, the coat was soon to be taken in a different direction - one which would shape popular perceptions in decades to come.

As Hollywood cemented its grip on the public imagination, filmgoers increasingly looked to the stars of the silver screen for fashion inspiration.

Men were drawn to the effortless cool displayed by detectives in slick film noir crime thrillers, while alluring leading ladies such as Marlene Dietrich provided a template for women to follow.

"By the 1930s Hollywood was really influential," said Ms Butchart. "Its reach in terms of fashion was becoming huge.

"Warner Bros produced a lot of gangster films that featured characters wearing trench coats.

"And by the time of World War Two they were becoming strongly linked with film noir and Humphrey Bogart.

"He embodied that trench 'attitude'. Many people think of him in Casablanca, even though he only wore one in two scenes."

The coats remained a favourite with Hollywood costume departments into the 1960s and a beige trench in romantic comedy Breakfast at Tiffany's helped confirm Audrey Hepburn's status as a style icon.

That transition will be the focus of From Field to Fashion, an exhibition running at Winchester Discovery Centre in Thomas Burberry's home county of Hampshire from 4 October until 21 December.

Alongside an authentic World War One Burberry cavalry trench coat will be the one Dietrich wore in 1948's A Foreign Affair - on loan from Berlin's Deutsche Kinemathek Museum.

Today, the coat's popularity on catwalks and the High Street shows little sign of waning.

The centrepiece of Burberry and Aquascutum's lavish ad campaigns, other brands continue to produce their own versions annually too.

In fashion terms, the trench coat has gone on to win the style war.

But, a hundred years after the outbreak of World War One, its beginnings on the battlefields should not be forgotten.

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It is a fashion classic that has endured through the decades. But away from catwalk shows and Hollywood glamour, the trench coat's first starring role was in World War One kitting out battle-weary soldiers. From Humphrey Bogart to Audrey Hepburn and Kate Moss, the trench coat is now synonymous with elan and sophistication.

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2020 Trench coat trends:
- See-through plastic, high-shine vinyl and patent cotton
- Tartan
-Sleeveless
-Oversized
-Double layer
-Satin
-Check

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Billie Eillish- wore a Burberry inspired outfit at the Brit awards 2020

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-gives off a youthful, stylish look
-can be dressed up or down
-Formal or casual
-range of styles for different ages
-Inclusive sizes eg. Asos curve Trench coat

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Of all men's clothing with a military heritage, the trench coat is the classiest. This perhaps stems from the fact that it is one of the oldest army garments still widely worn, dating from an early 20th century era when you still had to look smart even to go to war. Indeed, when the trench coat was devised - ostensibly as a means of keeping the endless mud off one's uniform in the trenches of the First World War - it was allowed to be worn only by officers.

Yet, for all that Robert Mitchum and Humphrey Bogart might have re-cast the trench coat as somehow quintessentially American - the trench coat is the noir detective's coat of choice - it is a British invention, belonging jointly (despite their rivalry over it) to both Aquascutum and Burberry: the former invented the first waterproof wool, devised a field coat for soldiers of the Crimean War and would later corner the Hollywood trench-coat market, for many the definition of the classic form; the later invented gabardine and won the contract to supply a trench-type coat for the Boer War and beyond.

What Is A Trench Coat?

Put simply, a trench coat is a three-quarter length coat designed to keep the grime and rain off your finer clothes rather than offer protection like a full-on winter coat would; it was first created with a detachable sheepskin liner - back when the coat was known as the 'trench warm' - and still works well over a gilet to the same end.

On the most classic of styles, many of the original details remain. True, the epaulettes, for your insignia of rank, and the D-rings - metal rings attached at the belt from which to suspend your grenades and ammunition pouches - are largely redundant now. But then the storm flap at the shoulder - designed in part to help soften rifle recoil - is also, like the back vent, an arrangement that allows rain water to run off away from the body, rather than into the coat.

Zara

The double-breasted cut provides an extra layer of warmth for your torso and the belt, throat latch and cuff tighteners allow for all hatches to be battened down should the weather turn. The raglan cut makes it easier to get over layers, too.

On its own it might not keep you all that warm, but it will keep you very, very dry - the trench coat was, after all, named after those First World War warrens in which men were exposed to the elements for weeks at a time - but also properly ventilated. The trench coat was the technical jacket of its era.

Why You Need A Trench Coat Today

There are multiple versions of the trench coat: short ones and long ones, lined and unlined, in wool or cotton gabardine or khaki drill, poplin or twill weaves - with more expensive options treated for added waterproofing - with more or fewer of those classic details. Some have so few of these, in fact, that they're more like a mac/trench hybrid.

Brooks Brothers

But there's one reason why this classic style never quite goes away: it works, and arguably more so now than it did a century ago. Since so much of our time is now spent in heated homes, offices or cars (not to mention the rising temperatures of climate change) the need for a seriously heavy coat is greatly diminished.

What's really most useful is a breathable layering piece, one that, as a vintage Burberry ad had it, can "afford hygienic and efficient protection against wet or chill and prolonged resistance to hard wear", adding that it was "suitable for every war zone". With a blanket wrapped around your lower legs, it could even double as an "emergency sleeping kit". That's probably arguing too hard for the trench coat's appeal today, but it does speak to why this style is so cocooning.

How To Wear A Trench Coat

Aside from its practicality - it's light and waterproof with deep pockets - the trench coat's other great asset is its stylistic versatility. It's one of the few coats styles that can easily transition from smart to casual dress - in fact, alongside a mac and overcoat, it's one of the few coat styles that actually looks right over suiting, providing you don't attempt to wear a formal hat too.

Zara

It shouldn't, but it does look just as at home with a sweatshirt and jeans, in a way that seems very 1960s Parisian student. Worn buttoned up and with a big scarf and the reference is more 1980s football casuals, arguably the first style tribe to embrace the trench coat outside of formal dressing. Trench coats come in myriad colours now, but the most useful are, inevitably, in the traditional menswear shades of navy or black, or - for the trench coat at least - the definitive fawn/khaki.

The trench coat should form a good tailored fit when it's fully done up, which is to say it should fit at the shoulders and not balloon around the body. That said, bigger men might like to avoid wearing the coat belted - it tends to draw attention to your mid-section - so much as just pulled on loosely over your jacket or jumper.

Length is an important consideration too: aim for a style that is no longer than just above your knee and no shorter than mid thigh. Trench coat fabrics are easily worked with so get your coat taken up if necessary. But don't be too prissy about it: a trench coat tends to look better the more battered it is.

Key Trench Coat Brands

Burberry

One of the two brands making the definitive trench coat, Burberry's is replete with all the original details, but now also comes in three fits - relaxed, for easier layering, classic and slim, the latter being more of a fashion piece. With its signature gabardine made at the Burberry mill near Keighley, this trench coat is also among the more expensive. But then it's an heirloom piece.
Buy Now: £1,550.00
Aquascutum

The other maker of the definitive trench coat, Aquascutum's was the style worn by Bogart in 'Casablanca' and Peter Sellers as bumbling detective Inspector Clouseau. Aquascutum's trench coats are identified by the check lining and slightly oversized cut. Again, it's not the cheapest, but it is a classic.
Buy Now: £650.00
Marks & Spencer

For a hardy staple at an affordable price, Marks & Spencer's cotton-rich trench coats come with the maker's Stormwear technology - a cotton and polyester blended fabric coating that ensures raindrops roll away off the garment while allowing it to remain breathable.
Buy Now: £149.00
Grenfell

Less well known than Burberry or Aquascutum, but making a similarly top-notch trench coat, Grenfell - which has been providing specialist outerwear to explorers since 1923 - also makes its trench coats from a proprietary, densely-woven cotton cloth. Its trench coats are available with detachable liners too.
Buy Now: £995.00
Mackintosh

Better known - as its name gives away - as maker of the classic, fuss-free mac, Mackintosh also has its own take on the trench coat. With versions available without the likes of epaulettes or storm flap, Mackintosh's trench coats might suit those looking for a more streamlined look.
Buy Now: £731.50
John Lewis

Accessibly priced and with timeless styling, John Lewis's own brand water- and wind-proof coats lean, more strictly, to the mac style than the trench coat. That said, they do use a bonded cotton blend and host plenty of detail such as button cuff adjustors, and has a versatile mid-length cut.
Buy Now: £99.00
H&M

Arguably the go-to brand for a well-priced version of the trench coat with much more of a fashion leaning, what you might lose in technical performance you'll gain in a shorter, edgier cut. There are still plenty of the characterful details, from the belt to the storm flap.

Buy Now: £79.99

Reiss

The mid-priced, good value option, British retailer Reiss offers outerwear that goes beyond that of the one-season wonder, and so packs in plenty of extras - a cotton shell might come with a quilted lining, neatly cut vents and a solid, suits-everyone standard fit.
Buy Now: £495.00
Zara

If you're after a more alternative take on the trench coat, Zara is a good place to look. Its versions might come using concealed fastenings, quilted, oversized, padded, belt-less, extra-long, checked, waxed, in atypical fabrics the likes of denim or a glossy polyester, even minimalistic with merely hints of the original style left.

Buy Now: £149.00

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Why The Trench Coat Is An Heirloom Piece Of Menswear

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Of all men's clothing with a military heritage, the trench coat is the classiest. This perhaps stems from the fact that it is one of the oldest army garments still widely worn, dating from an early 20th century era when you still had to look smart even to go to war.

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Reformation-classic trench coats made from recycled materials, deadstock fabrics, tencel, organic cotton, you name the sustainable material, they’re incorporating it.
-ethically produced
-range of eco friendly styles

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.Renewable and biodegradable
.Eco friendly organic cotton
.Vegan leather
.Recycled Japanese fabric

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"trench is about defining your femininity"

Everyone in the world should have a trench coat. and there should be a trench coat for everyone in the world. It does not matter your age, it doesn't matter your gender" Angela Ahrendts

'There is nothing more elegant in the winter then dark tights worn with matching knee-length boots and a belted trench coat' Joan Collins

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The trench has always been a staple but, this year, it gained fashionability. That's thanks to off-kilter styling at Céline and Vetements, and celebrity wearers. Worn by Kate Middleton, Audrey Hepburn, and Marlene Dietrich, the trench coat has long been a perennial clothing item filed with jeans and the LBD as must-have items for every woman to own. In 2018, we see a trench coat is back, but it's not classic anymore, it's cool, modern and bold. This time I want to show you my favorite trench coats to try this Autumn and find something special and unique.

Buzzy catwalk brands including Vetements and Céline have brought the trench on to the catwalk this year. Meanwhile, Burberry often thought of as the home of the traditional trench, played around with the design, placing the iconic check on the outside and reworking it in colored shearling. The high street has followed. For the trench 2.0, Asos has designs in vinyl while Topshop's are in metallic fabric. "We have seen popularity rise this season for trenchcoats with our customers looking to new fashion styles to update the classics," says Sian Ryan, head of womenswear design at Asos. The site had already sold 6,700 trenchcoats by the end of October. Meghan Markle wearing a white trench for the announcement of her engagement to Prince Harry will no doubt have boosted sales, too.

It's not about new trends, colors or prints, trench is about defining your femininity and making yourself look fresh and individual. At the designer end of the market, the trench has certainly been a strong seller as the year comes to a close. "We have increased our buy on trenchcoats and we've seen a strong reaction to styles from Burberry this season," says Natalie Kingham, the buying director of Matchesfashion.com. She says the different fabrications - PVC at cult brand Wanda Nylon, rubber at Burberry - have given the trench a boost, which adds "a point of difference and updates a classic item".

At Asos, Ryan says that the most popular trenches are still the classic ones - in khaki, with epaulets and storm flaps. This may be because part of the success of this trend is that it's not a trend at all. Instead, it is a rediscovery of a perennial by a new generation. "The influencers are showing ways to wear it," says Rebecca Lowthorpe, fashion features director of Grazia. She points to the Balenciaga trenchcoat worn by Kim Kardashian late last year as a key moment: "That did more for macs than anything."

The rediscovery of a classic factor suggests this is more than a flash-in-the-pan trend - its versatility means consumers will like to wear it longer than a season. There's no doubt the trench is weather-friendly in different climates - it protects its wearer from rain, and the loose shape allows layers to be worn underneath. "It's a great thing that will live on," says Lowthorpe. "It's one of those rare items that is classic while being interesting, too."

In contrast, the pool of timeless staples is much shallower. Consider, your favorite grey cashmere jumper or your go-with-everything jeans. What divides them is that while such perennials provide our wardrobe's bread and butter, they rarely get the opportunity to bask in the spotlight. This season, however, it has come to pass that one of fashion's most classic building blocks has simultaneously gained notoriety as spring's most prolific trend. It is, of course, the trench coat.

The reason for its ascent back up the polls can be credited to numerous factors. For starters, there are the last hurrahs of two of its biggest champions. Cult minimalist Phoebe Philo - a poster girl for making you regret ever swapping your navy roll neck for a clavicle-bearing Bardot shirt - loves a trench coat almost as much as she does a so- uncool-it's-cool sneaker. In her 2018 collection, the trench was king, either updated with statement looped-double hems or kept classic and slung casually over the arms of models wearing sequin cocktail dresses. For Resort 2018, they came oversized or puritanically archetypal. By December, when the fashion world learned of her imminent desertion from the brand after a decade at the helm, these pieces went from wish list to must-own as Philophiles flocked to snap up the last heirlooms of a soon-to-be-gone but not forgotten era.

At London Fashion Week, Christopher Bailey also unveiled his last collection for Burberry after 17 years. The brand, of course, is to the trench coat what Chanel is to the tweed skirt suit, with the original Thomas Burberry design dating back to 1912. Fast forward to 2018 and a search on the brand's website throws up no fewer than 212 results, spanning neon reverse check to laminated vinyl.

The brand also recently launched Restored - a curated collection of one-of-a-kind vintage Burberry trenches dating from the Sixties to the Nineties, all individually sourced, reproofed and restored in England and available in pop-ups including at Browns East and Dover Street Market. Meanwhile, modern incarnations on the catwalk also encompass Maison Margiela, with designer John Galliano rarely failing to include a deconstructed trench (or 10) in the mix in every show, to the agenda-setting Vetements and its cool collaboration with heritage hero Mackintosh.

"After seasons of bold, maximalist collections, we are definitely seeing a return to real-life dressing, and trenches are key to this," says Lisa Aiken, retail fashion director at Net-A-Porter, who also notes the high volume of street style stars who have been toting the trench on the current fashion week circuit.

As a result, the e-tailer has doubled its buy-in trench coats since last year with sales matching this increase. "There's an abundance of trenches this season, except this time around, we're seeing them in longer lengths and in oversized dramatic silhouettes worn in a very undone way."

Bestsellers on the site include J Crew, Koché, Calvin Klein and, of course, Burberry, while her top picks for SS18 include Helmut Lang's patent belted trench, Alexander McQueen's gabardine checked the version and Khaite's Cornelia cotton canvas coat. "They can be thrown over anything, which makes them incredibly practical and, ultimately, what appeals to us Londoners."

Liberty has also upped its trench coat supply to meet demand, with a 66 percent increased buy on last year. Its best selling price point is between £400 and £500, with this bracket accounting for 44 percent of all sales. Classic styles have remained the most popular, with 56 percent of sales in the traditional beige camp, while its bestselling brand so far this season has been APC.

If your search for the perfect trench takes you to the high street, M&S is an excellent place to start. Veteran purveyors of combining timeless appeal with a nod to seasonal trends, two of the brand's most popular outerwear pieces this season are trench coats, with its gingham print incarnation and a classic beige style updated with a smock sleeve both a regular sighting among the Brit pack off the catwalk this fashion week.

Other brilliant high-street buys include the classic double-breasted styles starring in Mango's new season campaign, available in two lengths, while Finery - an online brand with an anti-fast- fashion sensibility - has been a long-time champion of the trench in several guises, spanning the fashion-forward olive green leather style to a checked buckle option.

In its new season collection, however, Finery has chosen to include just one coat. And no prizes for guessing it's a trench in the most traditional sense. "Each season we reinvent this wardrobe staple to be innovative in both design and fabric," says creative director Emma Farrow. "But we are extremely proud of the new Maple trench as it is our take on a great classic that we hope will be in wardrobes for years to come." Now that's a trend worth investing in.

Sources: Standard.Co.Uk, TheGuardian.Com

Women's Fashion and Other Outfits to Wear in 2019

Fashion Trends 2019 - It's time to see some of the best style tips that are coming back.

How To Wear Trench Coats -

Street Style - Amazing trends inspiration for real fashionistas who want to look different.

Trench Coats - Explore my favorite trench coats for women that come in classic and modern designs.

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Trench Coats Are Back On Trend This Fall 2020 - OnlyWardrobe.com

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The trench has always been a staple but, this year, it gained fashionability. That's thanks to off-kilter styling at Céline and Vetements, and celebrity wearers. Worn by Kate Middleton, Audrey Hepburn, and Marlene Dietrich, the trench coat has long been a perennial clothing item filed with jeans and the LBD as must-have items for every ...

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-Trench coats are a unisex item of clothing
-Gender fluid
-At the beginning it was intended for both men and women.

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From one of the most iconic pieces of military uniform, to one of the most iconic pieces in fashion; the trench coat is so much more than an accessory. The history of the trench coat dates back over 150 years, and we are going to delve deeper into the folds of this stylish and essential piece of outerwear.
Introduction to the trench coat

This classic coat has a long and varied history, which all contribute to the modern take of the trench. Originally developed even earlier than the First World War, the trench coat was used as an item of clothing worn Army officers. It was adapted to be worn quite literally in the trenches; hence where the coat gets its name. It was during the Great War that this classic garment took the shape and style that so many of us still wear today. The classic style of the coat still has these military influences.
The traditional aesthetic of a trench, consisted of the following:

A double breasted finish

10 front buttons

A storm flap

Wide lapels

Button fastened pockets

Belted at the waist

Buckled straps around the wrist

Waterproof

Made from heavy duty cotton gabardine drill

Alternatives are leather or poplin

Insulated lining

Raglan sleeves

Lengths ranging from just above the ankles to just above the knees

Usually in a khaki colour

As this was developed for military use, every one of the features serves a purpose. The Fashion Dictionary, edited by Baldini Castoldi Dalai explained;

" The garment had shoulder straps, a waist belt with rings from which to hang anything a soldier might need in a trench, more small belts to make a sort of diving suit to protect oneself from water and cold, doubled fabric in the parts most exposed to rain, and many pockets. "

Soldiers in WW1 wearing their trench coats.

The history of the trench coat and the materials that made it

The history of the trench coat actually starts almost 100 years before World War I. It is documented that from 1823 there was a form of rubberised cotton that was being used to create outerwear for both men and women. This fabric was revolutionary, as it was weatherproof, and it began to be used for both military and civilian use. These styles of coats were called "macs" and were named for their inventor, Charles Macintosh. As amazing as this fabric was for keeping the wearer dry and warm, they did have one major flaw - the fabric was not breathable, thus, sweat was kept in. As well as this, the fabric also had a rather unpleasant smell and could even "melt" in the heat of the sun. Regardless of these shortcomings, macks were used throughout the 19th century by Army personnel.

Who invented the trench coat?

Designers and fabric manufacturers developed the material over the years, to try and make it more breathable, and thus, more wearable. There are 2 clothiers who claim to have created the trench, and the arguments continue even to this day;

1. Mayfair gentlemen's clothier, John Emary

2. Menswear business designer Thomas Burberry

John Emary
In 1853, John Emary developed and patented a fabric that was just as water-repellent as the original rubberised cotton, but was (thankfully) less smelly and more breathable. Emary renamed his company to what we now know as Aquascutum. This name comes from the Latin words " aqua" and " scutum" which translates to " water" and " shield." This name directly refers to Emary's focus on designing weather-proof clothing for the gentry. Emary claims to have created his version of the trench for officers serving in the Crimean War.
Thomas Burberry
Burberry founded his business in 1856. Yes this is the Burberry that is still rocking the fashion world today. in 1879, the young draper invented "gabardine." This was a waterproof twill fabric that was also breathable. It was created by actually coating the individual yarns of cotton or wool. This was a big leap from the original fabric that was used to create the macs, where the entire piece of fabric was coated in one go. Burberry delivered plans for his new raincoat to the United Kingdom War Office in 1901, where it was accepted.

Both Emary and Burberry's fabrics were very popular with all types of gentry; from sporty types and explorers to the upper class and aviators. It is clear to see why these fabrics became an essential for military uniform. It is still unclear who truly invented the trench. Both companies had connections to the British military establishment, and both Emary and Burberry had previously developed weatherproof clothing similar to the trench.

Adverts by Aquascutum and Burberry.

The history of the trench coat's development

Originally developed for officers of the British Army, who were able to purchase the trench at the cost of £3 or £4 (roughly 3 or 4 month's pay), the trench coat has continued to grow in popularity and reputation. Thanks to its innovative design and revolutionary fabric, the trench has become one of the most important clothing inventions of its time (and beyond.)

Characteristics of the trench coat and their uses

The trench coat is so much more than a piece of outerwear. We have already seen the importance of the fabric, and how its development helped officers of the army stay dry and camouflaged. The classic khaki and beige colours of the trench helped officers to stay as concealed as possible. There are many other aspects of the coat that were developed specifically to assist soldiers at war.

The shoulder straps were added to the coat in World War I so that soldiers could attach items such as their epaulettes and their rank insignia. They would also provide padding against the butt of a shotgun

D rings were added for the purpose of holding equipment such as map cases and swords

The large pockets were an essential, as they were used to hold military gear

Ventilation flaps were added for expelling any unpleasant odours, as well as helping keep the coats breathable

The length of the trench coat was well thought out too. There were made to be short enough so that they wouldn't trail too much in the mud and mire. They were also slightly flared at the waist, to allow maximum movement

The back yoke of the coat had crosses, which allowed water and mud to slough off

Originally, the trench coats came with a removable warm lining. This could be used as a blanket

The collar buttons at the neck were designed so that gas masks could be tucked tightly in to make them as efficient as possible

The cuff straps allowed binoculars to be secured when in use

The trench coat was designed to protect from wind and rain. They were not the warmest coats, however, they were supplied in a large size so that warmer coats and layers could be worn underneath them. In past wars, soldiers wore greatcoats. These were long overcoats of serge; a thick fabric made from wool. They were very heavy, long and cumbersome, despite being warm (when dry that is!) In the trenches, the long greatcoats proved to be somewhat of a problem. They were very long and heavy, and would become weighed down with mud, making them even heavier. Soldiers found it difficult to use their equipment while wearing them. The trench coat was a welcome relief, as it was lighter, easier to move it, shorter and offered a great many uses, as well as being weatherproof and warm. In short; it was a very useful garment and much more than just a coat.

During World War I however, the trench coats were issued only to British Officers and Warrant Officers 1st Class. It wasn't available for soldiers of lower rank. This also helped to establish the trench as a coat of high standards and class.

How the history of the trench coat has evolved today

After the war, Officers grew somewhat attached to their coats, and continued to wear them at home. Burberry and Aquascutum were leading menswear and sportswear designers at the time. This only added to the trench coat's popularity in civilian life. They continued to be seen as a coat of distinction and recognition.

World War II

When World War II started, the trench was still the coat of choice for officers in the field. Other countries saw how practical and popular these coats were and adapted them for the use of officers and soldiers in their armies. The style of the coat began to be adapted slightly for field use, and eventually shorter versions became available. These field jackets were a little more versatile and allowed soldiers to have more freedom and mobility.

The trench coat and Hollywood

As well as being the coat of choice in the trenches and battlefields, the trench started gaining somewhat of a celebrity status in period between the World Wars. The golden age of Hollywood paid homage to the trench and it was seen in various films, being worn by stars of the silver screen. Detectives, gangsters, femme fatales and leading men could be seen wearing the iconic garment. In 1941's The Maltese Falcon, Humphrey Bogart wore an Aquascutum Kingsway trench. He also wore it in infamous scenes in 1942's Casablanca and 1946's The Big Sleep. Leading ladies such as Marlene Dietrich and Audrey Hepburn were also dressed in the alluring coats.

These powerful roles, along with their firm establishment in the military made the trench coat an even more enviable and covetable item. They were effortlessly cool and carried the attitude and persona of the powerful, fearless, brave, and mysterious. From Royalty to film stars, the trench became as important a piece of fashion as blue jeans. It incorporates style and function, with a history that makes it all the more amazing.

Hollywood royalty Humphrey Bogart, Marlene Dietrich and Audrey Hepburn all wearing their trench coats.

The trench coat today

So where does the trench coat sit today? It continues to be a fashion staple and an iconic garment that can be seen almost every year on catwalks all over the world. Burberry continues to be leaders in trench coat production; creating styles for men and women that evoke a sense of fashion prowess and impeccable taste. During the 1990's, the fashion house breathed new life into the trench, offering avant garde variations; including bright colours, prints, and fabric details ranging from lace and satin to python skin. Where once this coat was limited to the safe colours of camouflage; khaki, beige and black, designers now have fun with it, and the trench has been created in all colours of the rainbow, including eye-catching metallics. From Humphrey Bogart, to Audrey Hepburn, to Kate Moss, to Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn, the trench has come a long way from the mire of the trenches.

Certain features remain ever popular; the wide lapels, epaulettes, large pockets and belted waist. The lightweight fabric and weatherproof finish also remain a staple characteristic.

A recent Burberry campaign of their iconic trench coats.

This classic coat has endured through the decades, and is still seen as one of the most revered and iconic items of clothing ever invented. As exciting and relevant as its present and future are, the origins of the trench coat, and its importance to its original cause, should never be forgotten.
Explore trench coat fabrics and over hundred other materials with your very own fabric swatch pack. Understand the texture, strength and finish of trench coat fabrics by taking a hands on approach.

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History Of The Trench Coat: Military Necessity To Fashion Accessory

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Learn all about the history of the trench coat; from its military beginnings to its journey to become one of the most iconic accessories in fashion.

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Fair Trade Fall Coats & Jackets

Fall is coming-actually, it might even be here. And that means it's time to bundle up and keep warm throughout crisp mornings, cool evenings, and nearly freezing nights. We've found a few brands whose ethical coats will be your go-to all season long. They use ethical and sustainable practices (including using recycled down), are eco-friendly and responsibly sourced, and many give back to their own communities.

Whether you're a city girl in NYC looking for a coat that'll keep you protected against those windy mornings, or a Seattleite who needs to stay dry, or maybe someone in between who wants to layer on up, we've found something for each of you. Why not pair these with some boots while you're at it?

Based In | London, UK
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Whether you're looking for a timeless trench coat or a buttoned blazer, Boden 's selections can help you confront any weather. The company is committed to using responsibly sourced fabrics across its 15 factories around the world, like tweed from the UK, denim from Istanbul, or jersey from Portugal. And to keep its clothing out of landfills and in your closet, Boden uses hours of wearer trials and garment assessments to ensure their longevity.

Based In | Toronto, Canada
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Best For | Belted jackets
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Kotn works with one fiber and works with it well: Egyptian Giza cotton. Grown only in the Nile Delta, the company buys directly from family-run farms (meaning no middlemen) to ensure guaranteed pricing (which often equates to above market pay). Once picked, Kotn makes each of its fabrics from scratch, whether that be jersey, jacquard, terry, or twill. We're loving its belted jacket that offers a suede-like feel with a sleek silhouette.

Based In | Paris, France
Ethics | Philanthropic initiative, ethical production, natural & sustainable materials
Best For | Classic silhouettes
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The idea behind Sézane is to create "high-quality...perfectly-cut pieces that can be worn forever." And by working with its long-standing partner ateliers in India, Portugal, Italy, and more, Sezane can promise expert hand-embroidery, silk production, and leather across its pieces. The outerwear offerings include trench and hooded coats, plus suit and biker jackets that are either tailored to a T or oversized to make a statement-the choice is yours.

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10 Ethical & Sustainable Cold Weather Coats That Will Keep The Chill Away All Season Long

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Fall is coming-actually, it might even be here. And that means it's time to bundle up and keep warm throughout crisp mornings, cool evenings, and nearly freezing nights. We've found a few brands whose ethical coats will be your go-to all season long.

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In 1879 inspired by the lanolin-coated waterproof smock worn by Hampshire shephards, he invented 'gabardine' a breathable yet weatherproofed twill made by coating individual strands of cotton or wool fiber rather the the whole fabric. burberry's gabardine outerwear, like aquascutum's proved popular with the upper class, sporty types, aviators, explorers and adventurers.

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From looking around Primark I came across a variety of trench coats featuring different styles.
-All at a £30 price point
-Seen in tartan
-Darker colour palette

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Gen z-can opt for bold prints and bright colours
Gen y-can stick to simple, traditional styles of trench coat

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World War I brought with it a broad array of societal changes, including men's fashion

smithsonianmag.com

The trench coat wasn't exactly invented for use during the war that gave it its name, a war spent mired in muddy, bloody trenches across Europe. But it was during the First World War that this now iconic garment took the shape that we recognize today, a form that remains startlingly current despite being more than 100 years old.

The trench coat is, in some ways, emblematic of the unique moment in history that World War I occupies, when everything - from rigidly held social structures to military organization to fashion - was in upheaval; it is both a product of this time as well as a symbol of it. "It's the result of the scientific innovation, technology, mass production... The story of the trench coat is a very modern story," says Dr. Jane Tynan, lecturer in design history at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London and author of British Army Uniform and the First World War: Men in Khaki.

Even so, the story of the trench coat starts roughly 100 years before the outbreak of World War I in 1914. As early as 1823, rubberized cotton was being used in weatherproof outerwear for both civilian and military use. These "macks", named for their inventor Charles Macintosh, were great at keeping rain out, but equally - and unfortunately - great at keeping sweat in. They also had a distinctive and unpleasant smell of their own, and a propensity to melt in the sun. Nevertheless, Mackintosh's outerwear, including rubberized riding jackets, were used by British military officers and soldiers throughout the 19th century.

Inspired by the market the macks created - and the fabric's initial shortcomings - clothiers continued to develop better, more breathable waterproofed textiles. In 1853, Mayfair gentlemen's clothier John Emary developed and patented a more appealing (read: less stinky) water-repellant fabric, later renaming his company " Aquascutum " - from the Latin, "aqua" meaning "water" and "scutum" meaning "shield" - to reflect its focus on designing wet weather gear for the gentry. His "Wrappers" were soon necessities for the well-dressed man who wanted to remain well-dressed in inclement weather.

Thomas Burberry, a 21-year-old draper from Basingstoke, Hampshire, founded his eponymous menswear business in 1856; in 1879, inspired by the lanolin-coated waterproof smocks worn by Hampshire shepherds, he invented "gabardine", a breathable yet weatherproofed twill made by coating individual strands of cotton or wool fiber rather than the whole fabric. Burberry's gabardine outerwear, like Aquascutum's, proved popular with upper class, sporty types, and with aviators, explorers and adventurers: When Sir Ernest Shackleton went to Antarctica in 1907, he and his crew wore Burberry's gabardine coats and sheltered in tents made from the same material.

"Lightweight waterproof fabric is] a technological development, like the Gore-Tex of that period, making a material that would be fit for purpose," explains Peter Doyle, military historian and author of The First World War in 100 Objects (the trench coat is number 26). With the fabric, the factories, and the primary players - Burberry, Aquascutum, and, to some degree, Mackintosh - in place, it was only a matter of time before the trench coat took shape. And what drove the design was changes in how the British military outfit itself, and to a large degree, how war was now being waged.

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Warfare through the 1860s was Napoleonic, typically conducted in large fields where two armies faced off and fired or hacked at one another until one fell. In these scenarios, brightly colored uniforms helped commanders identify their infantry troops even through the smoke of battle. But with the technological advancements in long-range arms in place even by the Crimean War in the 1850s, this kind of warfare had become deeply impractical, not to mention deadly; bright, garish uniforms simply made soldiers easier targets.

Military tactics needed to adapt to this new reality and so too did uniforms. The color khaki, which came to dominate British military uniforms, was the result of lessons learned in India; the word "khaki" means "dust" in Hindi. The first experiments at dyeing uniforms to blend in with the landscape began in 1840; during the Indian Rebellion of 1857, several British regiments dyed their uniforms drab colors.

By the 1890s, khaki and camouflage had spread to the rest of the British military; in the Boer War in 1899, the utility of khaki uniforms had proven itself by allowing soldiers dealing with guerilla warfare to blend more easily with their surroundings. The British military was in some ways slow to change - bizarrely, mustaches for officers were compulsory until 1916 - but by World War I, there was an increasing recognition that uniforms needed to disappear into the landscape, allow for fluid, unencumbered movement, be adaptable to the fighting terrain, and be easily produced in mass quantities.

The terrain that British military outfitters were designing for even early in the war was, essentially, a disgusting hole in the ground. Trenches were networks of narrow, deep ditches, open to the elements; they smelled, of both the unwashed living bodies crammed in there and the dead ones buried close by. They were muddy and filthy, and often flooded with either rain or, when the latrines overflowed, something worse. They were infested with rats, many grown to enormous size, and lice that fed off the close-quartered soldiers. Life in the trench, where soldiers would typically spend several days at a stretch, was periods of intense boredom without even sleep to assuage it, punctuated by moments of extreme and frantic action that required the ability to move quickly.

It was to deal with these conditions that the trench coat was designed. "This was really the modernizing of military dress. It was becoming utilitarian, functional, camouflaged ... it's a very modern approach to warfare," says Tynan.

In past wars, British officers and soldiers alike wore greatcoats, long overcoats of serge, a thick woolen material, that were heavy even when dry; they were warm, but unwieldy. But in the trenches, these were a liability: Too long, they were often caked with mud, making them even heavier, and, even without the soldiers' standard equipment, were difficult to maneuver in. Soldiers in the trenches needed something that was shorter, lighter, more flexible, warm but ventilated, and still weatherproof. The trench coat, as it soon came to be known as, fit the bill perfectly.

But let's be clear: Regular rank and file soldiers, who were issued their (now khaki) uniforms, did not wear trench coats. They had to make do with the old greatcoats, sometimes cutting the bottoms off to allow greater ease of movement. Soldiers' clothing was a source of discomfort for them - coarse material, ill-fitting cuts, poorly made, and teeming with lice.

Uniforms for those with higher ranks, however, were a very different story. While their dress was dictated by War Office mandates, officers were tasked with the actual outfitting themselves. Up until 1914, officers in the regular army were even asked to buy the clothes themselves, often at considerable cost, rather than simply being given the money to spend as they saw fit: In 1894, one tailor estimated that a British officer's dress could cost anywhere from £40 to £200. From the start of the war in 1914, British officers were provided a £50 allowance to outfit themselves, a nod to the fact that dressing like a proper British military officer didn't come cheaply.

Having officers outfit themselves also helped reinforce the social hierarchy of the military. Soldiers tended to be drawn from the British working classes, while the officers were almost exclusively plucked from upper, gentlemanly class, the "Downton Abbey" swanks. Dress was (and still is, of course) an important marker of social distinction, so allowing officers to buy their own active service kit from their preferred tailors and outfitters set them apart, fortifying their social supremacy. It also meant that though there were parameters for what an officer had to wear, they could, as Doyle says, "cut a dash": "The latitude for creating their own style was enormous.

The officers called on firms like Burberry, Aquascutum and a handful of others who marketed themselves as military outfitters; notably, these also tended to be the firms that made active, sporting wear for the very same aristocratic gentleman (Aquascutum, for example, enjoyed no less a patron than the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII; he wore their overcoats and issued them their first royal warrant in 1897). This marriage of sporting wear and military gear was longstanding. Burberry, for example, designed the field uniform for the standing British army in 1902 and noted in promotional materials that it was based on one of their sportswear suits; Aquascutum was selling overcoats and hunting gear to aristocratic gentlemen and outfitting British officers with weatherproofed wool coats as far back as the Crimean War in 1853. Burberry and Aquascutum both created designs informed by their own lines of well-made, nicely tailored clothing for wealthy people who liked to fish, shoot, ride, and golf. This also tailored nicely with the image the British military wanted to convey: War was hell, but it was also a sporty, masculine, outdoorsy pursuit, a pleasure and a duty.

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Both Burberry and Aquascutum take credit for the trench coat, and it's unclear who really was the first; both companies had strong ties to the British military establishment and both already had weatherproof outerwear similar to the trench coat. Burberry may have a stronger claim: Khaki-colored Burberry "weatherproofs", Mackintosh-style raincoats in Burberry gabardine, were part of officers' kit during the Boer War and in 1912, Burberry patented a knee-length, weatherproofed coat very like the trench coat called a "Tielocken", which featured a belt at the waist and broad lapels. But in truth, no one really knows.

"Burberry and Aquascutum were very clever in adapting to military requirements," says Tynan, especially as "what you're talking about is a sport coat being adapted for military use." The adaptation appears to have largely taken place within the first two years of war: Regardless of who really was the first, British officers had certainly adopted them by 1916, as this drawing of soldiers loading a cannon while being supervised by a trench coat-wearing officer attests. The first instance of the term "trench coat" in print also came in 1916, in a tailoring trade journal accompanied by three patterns for making the increasingly popular weatherproof coats. By this time, the coats' form had coalesced into essentially the same thing sold by luxury "heritage" brands and cheap and cheerful retailers today. So what made a coat a "trench coat"?

Firstly, it was a coat worn by officers in trenches. A blindingly obvious statement, sure, but it deserves some unpacking - because each part of the trench coat had a function specific to where and how it was used and who used it. Trench coats were double-breasted and tailored to the waist, in keeping with the style of officers' uniform. At the belted waist, it flared into a kind of knee-length skirt; this was short enough that it wouldn't trail in the mud and wide enough to allow ease of movement, but still covered a significant portion of the body. The belt, reminiscent of the Sam Browne belt, would have come with D-rings to hook on accessories, such as binoculars, map cases, a sword, or a pistol.

At the back, a small cape crosses the shoulders - an innovation taken from existing military-issue waterproof capes - encouraging water to slough off; at the front, there is a gun or storm flap at the shoulder, allowing for ventilation. The pockets are large and deep, useful for maps and other necessities. The straps at the cuffs of the raglan sleeves tighten, offering greater protection from the weather. The collar buttons at the neck, and this was for both protection from bad weather and poison gas, which was first used on a large scale in April 1915; gas masks could be tucked into the collar to make them more airtight. Many of the coats also came with a warm, removable liner, some of which could be used as emergency bedding if the need arose. At the shoulders, straps bore epaulettes that indicated the rank of the wearer.

In short, as Tynan notes, "The trench coat was a very, very useful garment."

But there was a tragic unintended consequence of officers' distinctive dress, including the trench coat: It made them easier targets for snipers, especially as they lead the charge over the top of the trench. By Christmas 1914, officers were dying at a higher rate than soldiers (by the end of the war, 17 percent of the officer class were killed, as compared to 12 percent of the ranks) and this precipitated a major shift in the make-up of the British Army. The mass pre-war recruitment drives had already relaxed requirements for officers; the new citizen army was headed by civilian gentleman. But now, necessity demanded that the army relax traditions further and take officers from the soldiering ranks and the middle class. For the rest of the war, more than half of the officers would come from non-traditional sources. These newly created officers were often referred to by the uncomfortable epithet "temporary gentleman", a term that reinforced both the fact that officers were supposed to be gentlemen and that these new officers were not.

To bridge that gap, the newly made officers hoped that clothes would indeed make the man. "Quite a lot of men who had no money, no standing, no basis for working and living in that social arena were suddenly walking down the street with insignia on their shoulder," says Doyle. "If they could cut a dash with all these affectations with their uniforms, the very thing that would have gotten them picked off the front line by snipers, that was very aspirational." Doyle explains that one of the other elements that pushed the trench coat to the fore was the commercial competition built up to outfit this new and growing civilian army. "Up and down London, Oxford Street, Bond Street, there would be military outfitters who would be offering the solution to all the problems of the British military soldier - 'Right, we can outfit you in a week.' ... Officers would say, 'I've got some money, I don't know what to do, I'll buy all that'. There came this incredible competition to supply the best possible kit."

Interestingly, adverts from the time show that even as the actual make-up of the officer class was changing, its ideal member was still an active, vaguely aristocratic gentleman. This gentleman officer, comfortable on the battlefield in his tailored outfit, remained the dominant image for much of the war - newspaper illustrations even imagined scenes of officers at leisure at the front, relaxing with pipes and gramophones and tea - although this leisure class lifestyle was as far removed from the bloody reality of the trenches as the grand English country house was from the Western Front.

For the temporary gentleman, this ideal image would have been entrancing. And very much a part of this image was, by the middle of the war at least, the trench coat. It embodied the panache and style of the ideal officer, while at the same being actually useful, rendering it a perfectly aspirational garment for the middle class. New officers happily and frequently shelled out the £3 or £4 for a good quality trench coat (for example, this Burberry model); a sizeable sum when you consider that the average rank-and-file soldier made just one shilling a day, and there were 20 shillings to a pound. (Doyle pointed out that given the very real possibility of dying, maybe even while wearing the trench coat, newly made officers didn't often balk at spending a lot of money on things.) And, of course, if one couldn't afford a good quality trench coat there were dozens of retailers who were willing to outfit a new officer more or less on the cheap, lending to the increasing ubiquity of the trench coat. (This isn't to say, however, that the cheaper coats carried the same social currency and in that way, it's no different than now: As Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, puts it, "I wouldn't underestimate people's ability to read the differences between a Burberry trench and an H&M trench.")

Ubiquity is one measure of success and by that measure alone, the trench coat was a winner. By August 1917, the New York Times was reporting that even in America, the British import was "in demand" among "recently-commissioned officers", and that a version of the coat was expected to be a part of soldiers' regular kit at the front.

But it wasn't only Allied officers who were adopting the coat in droves - even in the midst of the war, civilians of both sexes also bought the coats. On one level, civilians wearing a military coat was an act of patriotism, or perhaps more accurately, a way of showing solidarity with the war effort. As World War I ground on, savvy marketers began plastering the word "trench" on virtually anything, from cook stoves to jewelry. Doyle said that people at the time were desperate to connect with their loved ones at the front, sometimes by sending them well-meaning but often impractical gifts, but also by adopting and using these "trench" items themselves. "If it's labeled 'trench' you get the sense that they're being bought patriotically. There's a slight hint of exploitation by the [manufacturers], but then they're supplying what the market wanted and I think the trench coat fit into all that," he says. "Certainly people were realizing that to make it worthwhile, you needed to have this magical word on it, 'trench'." For women in particular, there was a sense that too-flashy dress was somehow unpatriotic. "How are you going to create a new look? By falling into line with your soldier boys," says Doyle.

On another level, however, the war also had a kind of glamour that often eclipsed its stark, stinking reality. As the advertisements for trench coats at the time reinforced, the officer was the face of this glamour: "If you look at adverts, it's very dashing ... it's very much giving a sense that if you're wearing one of these, you're at the height of fashion," explains Doyle, adding that during the war, the most fashionable person in the U.K. was the trench coat-clad "gad about town" officer. And on a pragmatic level, Tynan pointed out, what made the coats so popular with officers - its practical functionality married to a flattering cut - was also what resonated with civilians.

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After the war, battle wounds scabbed over and hardened into scars - but the popularity of the trench coat remained. In part, it was buoyed by former officers' tendency to keep the coats: "The officers realized they were no longer men of status and had to go back to being clerks or whatever, their temporary gentleman status was revoked... probably the echo into the 1920s was a remembrance of this kind of status by wearing this coat," theorized Doyle.

At the same time, the glamour attached to the coat during the war was transmuted into a different kind of romantic image, in which the dashing officer is replaced by the equally alluring world-weary returning officer. "The war-worn look was most attractive, not the fresh faced recruit with his spanking new uniform, but the guy who comes back. He's got his hat at a jaunty angle... the idea was that he had been transformed, he looked like the picture of experience," Tynan says. "I think that would certainly have given [the trench coat] a caché, an officer returning with that sort of war-worn look and the trench coat is certainly part of that image."

The trench coat remained part of the public consciousness in the period between the wars, until the Second World War again put trench coats into military action ( Aquascutum was the big outfitter of Allied military personnel this time). At the same time, the trench coat got another boost - this time from the golden age of Hollywood. "A key element to its continued success has to do with its appearance as costume in various films," says Valerie Steele. And specifically, who was wearing them in those films: Hard-bitten detectives, gangsters, men of the world, and femme fatales. For example, in 1941's The Maltese Falcon, Humphrey Bogart wore an Aquascutum Kingsway trench as Sam Spade tangling with the duplicitous Brigid O'Shaugnessy; when he said goodbye to Ingrid Bergman on that foggy tarmac in Casablanca in 1942, he wore the trench; and again in 1946 as private eye Philip Marlowe in The Big Sleep.

"It's not a question of power coming from an authority like the state. They're private detectives or spies, they rely on themselves and their wits," said Steele, noting that the trench coat reinforced that image. "[The trench coat] does have a sense of kind of world-weariness, like it's seen all kinds of things. If you were asked 'trench coat: naïve or knowing?' You'd go 'knowing' of course." (Which makes Peter Sellers wearing the trench coat as the bumbling Inspector Clouseau in The Pink Panther series all the funnier.)

Even as it became the preferred outerwear of lone wolves, it continued to be an essential part of the wardrobe of the social elite - a fascinating dynamic that meant that the trench coat was equally appropriate on the shoulders of Charles, Prince of Wales and heir to the British throne, as on Rick Deckard, hard-bitten bounty hunter of Ridley Scott's 1982 future noir Blade Runner. "It's nostalgic... it's a fashion classic. It's like blue jeans, it's just one of the items that has become part of our vocabulary of clothing because it's a very functional item that is also stylish," says Tynan. "It just works."

It's also endlessly updatable. "Because it's so iconic, it means that avant garde designers can play with elements of it," says Steele. Even Burberry, which consciously recentered its brand around its trench coat history in the middle of the last decade, understands this - the company now offers dozens of variations on the trench, in bright colors and prints, with python skin sleeves, in lace, suede, and satin.

But as the trench coat has become a fashion staple, on every fashion blogger's must-have list, its World War I origins are almost forgotten. Case in point: Doyle said that in the 1990s, he passed the Burberry flagship windows on London's major fashion thoroughfare, Regent Street. There, in huge lettering, were the words "Trench Fever". In the modern context, "trench fever" was about selling luxury trench coats. But in the original context, the context out of which the coats were born, "trench fever" was a disease transmitted by lice in the close, fetid quarters of the trenches.

"I thought it astounding," said Doyle. "The millions of people who walked down the street, would they have made that connection with the trenches? I doubt that."

About Linda Rodriguez McRobbie

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smithsonianmag.com The trench coat wasn't exactly invented for use during the war that gave it its name, a war spent mired in muddy, bloody trenches across Europe. But it was during the First World War that this now iconic garment took the shape that we recognize today, a form that remains startlingly current despite being more than 100 years old.

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Roughly 100 years before the outbreak of world war 1 in 1914.As early as 1823, rubberised cotton was being used in weatherproof outerwear for both civilian and military use.

These 'macks' named after Charles Macintosh the inventor, were great at keeping the rain out but on the downside the sweat was kept in. They also have a distinctive and unpleasant smell of their own and a tendency to melt in the sun.

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Personalised trench coat- Chose panels colour and styles.
Hockerty offer personalised trench coats where you can choose the colour, style, size, length, pockets, belt, sleeves and ribbon.
Then charges added cost for custom lining, neck lining, monogram, holes and thread colours and elbow patches.

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Tailored Trench Coats for Men £179 - Hockerty

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Design custom trench coats for men and get 2 weeks free shipping. Unlimited personalization options and a wide range of high quality fabrics. Order online now

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Megan Markle is a big fashion influence who is widely seen in the media wearing a trench coat

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Whether on the street or the silver screen, the trench coat is a fashion staple, an iconic garment that has endured through the decades.

The Trench coat's name gives up vital clues to its origins, though. Recalling its roots as a lightweight garment for British officers during the First World War, the trench coat helped protect them from the elements on the front-line.

100 years after the outbreak of the First World War, the coat's beginnings on the battlefields should not be forgotten.

An exhibition in Basingstoke called from Field to Fashion explores the connection. Hannah Gurney went to find out more.

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Whether on the street or the silver screen, the trench coat is a fashion staple, an iconic garment that has endured through the decades. The Trench coat's name gives up vital clues to its origins, though. Recalling its roots as a lightweight garment for British officers during the First World War, the trench coat helped protect them from the elements on the front-line.

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In late 1800s. a need for a waterproof/resistance fabric that was less slinky and sweaty then the currently available rubberised cotton.Burberry created a new fabric in which the individual threads were rubberised, rather then the entire cloth.
the khaki colour was the first move towards camoflage. prior to WW1 bright uniforms were used to identify ones comrades. However as military technology

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There are two stories of how the now-famous coat came to be: first that Thomas burberry himself patented which is considered the precursor to the trnch coat, the tielocken, in 1912 after developing its fabric in 1879. And second the company Aquascutum first developed water-repellent coats in the 1850s. Neither have been victorious in the ownership of the trench coat.

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Burberry are a global luxury clothing brand.
They place the trench coat as the focus of their website due to its popularity.

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In 1901 Burberry were enlisted with the task of creating a lightweight jackets to be worn by soldiers. The coats they created were comfortable and practical, also were used to display a soldiers title. As enlisted men were not allowed to wear trench coats, it became a status symbol.

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The trench coat

Burberry's iconic trench coat became popular amongst officers serving in the trenches of the First World War (1914-18).

In 1901, Burberry were asked to design a lightweight raincoat for soldiers. The coat they created was comfortable, practical and came complete with shoulder epaulettes so that an officer could display his rank.

As enlisted men were not permitted to wear trench coats, the garment also became a status symbol. Its sophisticated style and practical function made it desirable even before the end of the war. Coats were purchased by civilians (male and female) who wanted to show their national pride, and excellent style.

The trench coat remained popular after the war as many officers continued to wear their wartime coats in daily life. The coat got another combat outing during the Second World War (1939-45). But it was really the Hollywood films of the time, like 'Casablanca'(1942), which featured main characters wearing a trench coat, that immortalised its status as a fashion piece.

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Burberry's iconic trench coat became popular amongst officers serving in the trenches of the First World War (1914-18). In 1901, Burberry were asked to design a lightweight raincoat for soldiers. The coat they created was comfortable, practical and came complete with shoulder epaulettes so that an officer could display his rank.

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A history of the trench coat from World War I to Hollywood's silver screen.

Military-inspired and ultra-classic, the trench coat is one piece of outerwear that will never go out of style. Its defining characteristics are simple and driven by necessity - protective gabardine fabric, a standard khaki color, a full-length, belted, double-breasted cut with wide lapels - and each characteristic has a very logical history.

While we can definitely link the rise of the trench coat back to WWI, it would never have come to be without the invention of gabardine fabric, outside of the military at the hands of Burberry's very own Thomas Burberry.

Recognizing a need in the late 1800s for a waterproof/resistant fabric that was less stinky and sweaty than the currently available rubberized cotton, Burberry created a new fabric in which the individual threads were rubberized, rather than the entire cloth. Thus, gabardine, a waterproof yet breathable cotton fabric, was born. The remaining characteristics, however, came directly from the demands of military use.

The introduction of the khaki color was one of the first moves towards camouflage. Prior to WWI, most battles were fought close range, and bright uniforms were essential in identifying one's comrades. As military technology developed, those bright colors turned into a liability as it only made soldiers easier targets. Instead, armies started trying to blend into their backgrounds, and khaki was the first choice.

The final development that sparked the trench coat was the introduction of trench warfare. British soldiers and officers who had traditionally worn heavy serge (wool) topcoats. These kinds of coats were already heavy when worn dry, and became dangerous hazards in the trenches, where they would get wet, caked with mud, and seriously hinder movement and mobility.

Gabardine was introduced as an alternative, and while the trench coat never became standard issue, it became a highly desirable piece of optional outerwear in the British Army. From that point on, the garment was picked up by armies across the world, and eventually the general public.

Over time not much has changed - the double-breasted closure and wide lapels were there from the start, along with the belt to hold things together. The epaulets were added during WWI to allow soldiers to display rank, and D-rings found their place supposedly to hang grenades from, although that claim has never been wholly substantiated.

In the public sphere, actors like Humphrey Bogart made the trench coat and fedora look the standard for a Hollywood film-noir protagonist. Later it became the uniform de rigueur for private eyes and gumshoes, who used a baggy cut and a popped collar to stay discreet and clandestine.

These days, designers recognize the slimming cut of a more tailored trench coat as a classier raingear alternative to a more casual parka or poncho, matching just as well with a suit and tie as a jumper and jeans, and are offering it in a variety of colors and custom finishings. As long as you avoid a brand that fits like a sack (yep, they're out there), it's hard to go wrong.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

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Trench Coat History: From the Battlefield to Hollywood - He Spoke Style

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A history of the trench coat from World War I to Hollywood's silver screen. Military-inspired and ultra-classic, the trench coat is one piece of outerwear that will never go out of style. Its defining characteristics are simple and driven by necessity - protective gabardine fabric, a standard khaki color, a full-length, belted, double-breasted cut with wide lapels - and each characteristic has a very logical history.

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Scarcely are there men's garments that lack a military background. High-top sneakers, cardigans, even t-shirts were all developed for use by the military, whereby they gained mass appeal. The trench coat, for the most part, is one of these stories. But the research and development on it precede even the trench warfare of the First World War that gave the garment its more familiar moniker. Its origins are, in fact, even more deeply rooted in warfare and adventure than the average WWI narrative would have you believe.

In the Beginning

The early 1800s saw inventors and designers (particularly in the rainy U.K.) desperately seeking to produce a truly waterproof fabric. In 1823, a Scottish chemist named Charles Macintosh discovered that he could melt a novelty material-now called rubber-and laminate traditional textiles with it. Though rubber was used mainly for medical purposes and costly to produce, Macintosh saw promise.

His first iteration of the Mackintosh raincoat had essentially just wrapped wool in this new rubber material. Though this made for a truly impermeable raincoat, the wearer would be left miserable with their body heat both trapped by the wool and then fully sealed in by the rubber. Macintosh would later partner with Thomas Hancock, the man who had patented a now-legendary process called vulcanization, and, in 1843, the pair were able to fabricate a lighter, yet still waterproof, Mac.

There was clearly room for improvement in the world of waterproof jackets, however, and another man named John Emery took a crack at it in 1853. He invented another version of waterproof wool and combined the product with his experience as Regent's Street tailor, which made his brand, Aquascutum, a runaway hit. What began as clothing for town and country quickly took on a military bent, and officers in the Crimean War frequently bought his hard-wearing overcoats.

The long, woolen Great Coats were always a traditional part of a British soldier's uniform, but troops were finding themselves in challenging circumstances more frequently, situations in which a long, heavy overcoat hurt, rather than helped, them.

Burberry and Gabardine

Burberry can safely be credited with inventing the modern trench coat, although it would still be some time before his invention won its current name. For Thomas Burberry of Basingstoke, England, the great discovery was gabardine, a tightly woven twill, made from chemically treated, long-staple cotton threads. The new fabric was waterproof, but far more breathable than any wool/rubber concoctions that other brands were using. Mackintosh coats, with their rubber component, were famously stinky and actually had to be regularly perfumed. Thankfully, gabardine was easier on the nose.

Burberry won public trust by outfitting two separate polar expeditions: Roald Asmundsen's journey as the first man to reach the South Pole, and Sir Ernest Shackleton's famed Trans-Antarctic Expedition. These missions in the early 1900s captured the public imagination and proved, without a shadow of a doubt, the utility of gabardine.

Burberry's waterproof coat was unofficially adopted by much of the British Officer class at the turn of the century, for use during the ill-fated Boer War. Fought from 1899-1902 in what is now South Africa, the shorter, double-breasted gabardine coat was a wartime success, and halfway through the conflict, Burberry became an official outfitter of the British Army. Their first creation? The Tielocken, meaning the modern trench coat was invented 13 years before the outbreak of World War I.

The Tielocken was made to military specifications and so-called because when the belt was tied, it was so secure that you were pretty much locked into it. And, it was here where the modern trench coat would be born. Elements of the quintessential trench can be seen in the Tielocken like the waist belt, double-breasted front, and knee length. But, as would be seen, a handful of details would be added in the Tielocken's evolution.

By the time the Great War broke out, the Tielocken had already demonstrated its efficacy on the battlefield, and the gabardine from which it was made had also been rigorously tested as a result. Epaulets, a 10×2 button front, a gun flap at the chest, metal D-rings for attaching military tools, a storm shield and a center pleat were all added as practical additions that would not only be solidified as part of the archetypal trench coat, but also prove advantageous to WWI soldiers.

After the War

Though utilized in the Second World War and in civilian life, the cause for the trench coat's next real popularity bump would be a fictitious and glamorous one-the silver screen. In film, the trench coat could handle a slouchy Humphrey Bogart gumshoe, a beautiful Audrey Hepburn out in the rain and anything in between.

Even with the rich military history and decades of R & D, it could be argued that the trench coat is so evocative now because of its time in film. And though many actors in iconic roles sported this classic getup, it's Bogart's stocky frame in a perpetually rumpled one that consistently comes to mind.

So from country sportsman to polar explorer to upper-crust officer, the trench coat has had a long and interesting history, most of which took place before the garment even gained its modern name. And even though the thoroughly waterproof coat we love to write about hasn't changed much in the years since its name was solidified, it will likely continue to hold up through many more fashion cycles.

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The Trench Coat: Before, During, and After the Trenches

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Scarcely are there men's garments that lack a military background. High-top sneakers, cardigans, even t-shirts were all developed for use by the military, whereby they gained mass appeal. The trench coat, for the most part, is one of these stories.

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Created by Charles Macintosh in the 19th Century

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Few garments tread the line between function and elegance quite like the trench coat. Today, it's the final flourish to a well-considered outfit - whether you're heading into the city or escaping to the country. But its story begins not on the pavements of London, but in the thick of 19th-century military life.

Though often associated with the First World War, the trench coat's roots trace back to the early 1800s, when outerwear for soldiers began to evolve beyond heavy wool greatcoats. Early waterproof coats made from rubberised fabrics were a step forward, though far from perfect - prone to trapping heat, carrying an odd smell, and even melting in the sun.

Source: Hulton-Deutsch Collection // British soldiers in trench coats, 1914

Source: Naval Historical Center // Lieutenant General Omar Bradley and Major General J. Lawton Collin, 1944

The need for practical, weatherproof outerwear drove innovation in clothmaking. By the mid-19th century, new tightly woven cottons emerged - tough, breathable, and water-resistant. This fabric development laid the foundation for the classic trench silhouette we know today.
From Trenches to Town
The trench coat as we recognise it came into being during the First World War. Officers required something lighter, more mobile, and better suited to unpredictable weather than the bulky wool coats of old. What emerged was a new kind of coat - long enough to protect from rain and mud, short enough for ease of movement, and full of practical design features.

The storm flap at the shoulder helped water run off while adding ventilation. D-rings on the belt were used to attach gear. Raglan sleeves allowed for greater freedom. Everything had a purpose - nothing was purely decorative.

When the war ended, many officers returned home with their trench coats in tow. In time, what began as military uniform evolved into a civilian staple. It found its way into city life and popular culture, quietly shedding its martial edge to become a symbol of elegance, practicality, and understated British style.

Source: A Foreign Affair // Marlene Dietrich, 1948
What Makes a Trench Coat?
A well-cut trench coat is defined by several classic features:

The beauty of the trench lies in its balance - structured but unrestrictive, smart but not stiff. Whether worn over tailoring or something more casual, it lends the wearer a certain quiet confidence.
The Darcy: Gloverall's Modern Classic
Inspired by early military design, the Darcy Trench Coat offers a modern interpretation of this timeless style. With clean lines and thoughtful details - angled front pockets, a back vent for ease of movement, and a waist belt to shape the silhouette - it's a piece built for everyday wear.

Crafted from a cotton-polyester blend with a showerproof finish, it's ideal for transitional weather. Lightweight, layerable, and quietly elegant, the Darcy is just as at home on a countryside walk as it is navigating the rush hour.

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The History of the Trench Coat - Gloverall

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Few garments tread line between function and elegance quite like trench coat. Today, it's - Gloverall

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Trench coats are still an effortless, iconic piece.
Seen almost every year on the catwalk all over the world
seen nowadays in a range of prints, colours and fabric details including lace and satin.
Certain features have remained popular including the wide lapels, large pockets and belted waist.
The lightweight fabric and weatherproof finish also remain a staple characteristic.

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Trench coats began to receive a celebrity status.
Seen worn by Audrey Hepburn and in various films worn by Detectives, femme fatales, gangsters and leading men.

Hollywood film Casablanca 1942 featured characters in trench coats and its where they received a status of being a fashionable piece.

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other countries saw how practical and versatile trench coats were and used them in their own armies.
It began to be adapted for field use, by becoming shorter versions.

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It was used in the military because of the warmth and the protection against wind and rain.
However they proved a problem due to the heavy material, weighed the soldiers down especially when muddy.
Trench coats were issued only to British officers and warrant officers.