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Honestly, my go to gardening resource is google. I have very few direct sources that I go to and prefer to browse online articles as I need them. That said, a broad internet search can be overwhelming if you don't know what you are looking for so narrowing search parameters is a good idea. I've also found that looking at local universities is a good way to tailor plant information to your grow zone and climate.

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Gardening Solutions - University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences

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Based on the decreased risk of disease transmission in an open-air environment, outdoor areas on school grounds and in local public spaces - such as parks - can be venues for outdoor classrooms and school programming, including physical education, recess, or school meals. In order to bring the school day outside, you will need to plan the staffing and scheduling for the use of these spaces. You will also need to prepare teachers to teach outside, provide curriculum support, and provide guidance on how to manage students in what can be a distracting space. In addition, systems for having meals and conducting recess outside will need to be implemented. In this section, you will find information and resources to support your planning process in taking classes and other programming outside.

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Education Outdoors - National COVID-19 Outdoor Learning Initiative - Green Schoolyards America

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Need more information, ideas, and strategies for teaching outside? The outdoor learning, green schoolyard, and school garden fields have decades of experience to share. This chapter explores planning strategies and resources related to setting up and managing successful outdoor learning initiatives.

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Farm to School Alaska - Resources for Educators

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Farm to School Alaska - Resources for Educators

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https://www.farmtoschoolalaska.org/resources/resources-for-educators/
My main "go to" resource is KidsGardening.org already posted by others so I'm adding this to the list because it's specific to Alaska.
Roz Goodman

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I get lots of good locally-tailored information about gardening from this website. (Madison, WI)

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Smart Shopping: Dodging Disease When Purchasing Plants
May is a prime time to visit your local greenhouse, nursery or garden center to buy annuals, perennials and vegetables for your home garden. Unfortunately, these plants can be carriers of plant disease-causing organisms. Here are some pointers on what to look for when buying plants.
Tips for Buying and Caring for Easter Lilies
By: Ann Wied, Horticulture Educator, Waukesha County The Easter lily is a favorite Easter-time/Spring treat. It's a welcome gift following a long winter. It is often thought of as a symbol of hope and life. Whether you are buying one for yourself or as a gift, the following tips will help you be successful in [...]
Timely tips for seedling care
Here's some timely tips when caring for your baby plants. For example, if you are growing seedlings under grow-lights, the tops of the seedlings should be about 1" from the fluorescent tubes. Don't allow the seedlings to grow into the lights as the leaves may burn. Seedlings don't need to be as close to the lights if you are using LED lights. Lights should be on for about 16 hours a day for most crops.

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Smart Shopping: Dodging Disease When Purchasing Plants May is a prime time to visit your local greenhouse, nursery or garden center to buy annuals, perennials and vegetables for your home garden. Unfortunately, these plants can be carriers of plant disease-causing organisms. Here are some pointers on what to look for when buying plants.

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I do not have to many resources to go to as I am a newbie gardener, but a friend shared this website and I like it was very quick and informative. I did not feel over whelmed.

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Want to start a school garden? Our lessons cover planning, building, and caring for your garden, plus a video on overcoming common student fears.

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Nourish volunteer Sheri White shares her experiences as a beginner gardener in the hopes of inspiring others to get their hands dirty!

As June comes to a close, it signals the end of Pride month, a time to celebrate and support 2SLGBTQIA+ folks and learn about their history.

As part of our ongoing commitment to youth voices, we are excited to introduce you to our new Food Culture & Communications Ambassador, Nicole!

"We have a large number of students who rely on our breakfast program to provide them with healthy food to start their day. […] The breakfast program also provides an opportunity for staff and students to develop relationships as they prepare, serve and complete the clean up for the program each day. The breakfast program not only provides a much needed service for our students, but also a platform for teaching necessary life skills.”

— Learning Centre Teacher

Over 6.3 MILLON

meals served at school
Breakfast Programs

100 SCHOOLS

food gardens connected with Grow Eat Learn

Over 300,000 LBS

of local produce distributed through Nourish Your Roots

Like a seed needs water, we need your help to grow

Make a gift to help students be well-nourished to live, learn and play.

Recipes

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Nourish | non-profit organization | Healthy Eating for Children

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Nourish Nova Scotia is a province-wide, non-profit organization. We help Nova Scotia schools support students to be healthy learners so they can reach their potential in the classroom and in life.

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University of Georgia School Garden Curriculum 

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University of Georgia School Garden Curriculum 

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This resource has so many elements - aligned with GA state curriculum so will have links to other state curricula as well. I live in VA and have found it very useful and differentiated by grade level.

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Garden-based lessons aligned to the educational standards for the state of Georgia. Lesson plans are listed by grade level, and in grades K-5 are further subdivided into earth science, life science, and physical science topics. Grade 6 lessons are aligned with the earth science topics required at that level, grade 7 has life science lessons, and grade 8 has physical science lessons.

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Garden-based lessons aligned to the educational standards for the state of Georgia. Lesson plans are listed by grade level, and in grades K-5 are further subdivided into earth science, life science, and physical science topics. Grade 6 lessons are aligned with the earth science topics required at that level, grade 7 has life science lessons, and grade 8 has physical science lessons.

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I refer to this website all the time, it has everything from tips on how to start your own school garden to lesson ideas for all grade levels.

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Watercolors from the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Celebrating Diversity in the Garden 9-12

The Role of Native Plants and Pollinators in Biodiversity

Biodiversity Detective Preschool, K-2

Food Exploration K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Art and Science of Aromatherapy

Mindfulness in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Nurturing Resilience in Gardens — and Kids

Organize a Garden Cleanup

Personas Planta Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Jardinería con restos de cocina Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Lecciones para Crecer: Necesidades de las plantas 3-5

Lecciones para Crecer: Partes de las plantas 3-5

Lecciones para Crecer: Los polinizadores 3-5

Accessible Garden Paths

Design an Accessible Garden 9-12

Practice Fine Motor Skills in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Ethnobotany 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Using Garden Books as Windows and Mirrors Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Making Garden Signs for Accessibility to All K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Creating Signs for Culturally Relevant Plants 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Create a Collaborative Mural Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Growing Rooftop Gardens 9-12

Pocket Planter Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Urban Gardening Benefits and Techniques K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Garden-Inspired Writing K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Garden Adjective Adventure K-2

Plant a Living Diorama Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

A Multitude of Gratitude 3-5, 6-8

Farm to School: A Win-Win-Win Model Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Thanks a Bunch! K-2, 3-5

Teaching Nutrition in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

How Youth Gardens Can Support Social Emotional Learning Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Self-Expression in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Design a Healing Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Bulbs: Fall Planting for Spring Blooms Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Weigh the Waste Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Fun with Fungi K-2, 3-5

Make a Pollinator Field Guide Preschool, K-2

Friendship Fort Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Earth Day Fun Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Earth Day Wildflower Seed Paper Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Easy Refrigerator Pickles Activity Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Homemade Paper Valentine Hearts Preschool, K-2, 3-5

A Year in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Rainbow Vegetable Kabobs Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Plant a Butterfly Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Compost Your Way 6-8, 9-12

Fungus Among Us K-2

Love for the Bugs! 3-5, 6-8

Sustainable Gardening Ideas from Around the Globe 9-12

Create a School Garden Planting Calendar K-2, 3-5

Amazing Adaptations of Succulents 3-5

Plant-Inspired Products 3-5

Little Seeds Pollinator Pals Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Learn About Landfills 3-5

Exploring Food Forests 6-8, 9-12

Grow Baby Succulents Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Make a Lasagna Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Hooked on Hummingbirds Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Succulents

Borage and Other Compost Plants

Gourds Growing Guide

Blueberries Growing Guide

Teaching Outside Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Wheatgrass Growing Guide

Bug Hunt Preschool, K-2

Earthworms: The Good, the Bad, and the Bizarre 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Soil Fungi: A World of Wonder Beneath Our Feet 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Attract Beneficial Ground Beetles with a Beetle Bank! 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Service Learning: Helping Kids and Communities Grow K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Hugelkultur: Layered Mound Gardens K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Foods We Ferment — And Why 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Interactive Spring Planting Calendar Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Earth-Friendly Gift Wrapping

Troubleshooting Compost Problems

Native Wisdom: Growing Techniques of Indigenous Peoples 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Food Forests

Wonderful Wildflowers K-2, 3-5

Best Crops for Hydroponics

Hydroponic Farming 3-5, 6-8

DIY Hydroponics Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Starting Seeds for Hydroponics

Plant Families for Pollinators

Dandelions

Pollinator Jeopardy K-2, 3-5

The Pollinator Patch Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Discovering Hydroponics K-2

Exploring Hydroponics 3-5

Exploring Hydroponics 3-5

Plant Math Fun Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Room to Grow K-2, 3-5

Square Foot Gardening

Compact Vegetable Varieties for Small-Space Gardens

Pollinator Journal Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Container Gardening for Kids Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Photosynthesis Runs the World 3-5, 6-8

Radish

Photosynthesis 101

Starting a School Garden Program: Overview

Can School Gardens Impact Food Waste in America?

Fruit and Vegetable Art Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Fruit vs. Vegetable K-2

Chinese Noodle Bean

Seed Catalog Fun Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Kindness in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Garden Mentorship Program K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Pansies

Tropical Rainforests 3-5, 6-8

Bromeliad Basics Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Visor de Semillas Preschool, K-2

Seed Viewer Preschool, K-2

Bromeliads

Exploring Herbs Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

The Scents of the Holidays Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

The Amazing Amaryllis Preschool, K-2

Poinsettia

Soil Art Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Seven Ways to Nurture Healthy Soil in Fall Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Soil vs. Water: Exploring Hydroponics 6-8, 9-12

Tulip

Wildlife Inventory Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Birdscaping to Feed and Shelter Birds Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Birds and the Garden Ecosystem 6-8

Beautyberry

Bulbs: Fall Planting for Spring Blooms Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Carnivorous Plants

Plant Adaptations of Carnivorous Plants K-2, 3-5, 6-8

The Intriguing World of Carnivorous Plants Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Mouse Melon

Photographing Shapes and Patterns in Nature 3-5, 6-8

Garden Photography: Simple Techniques Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Photo Fun Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Choice, Control & Change 6-8

Farm to Table & Beyond 3-5

Corn

Read in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Garden Literature: Exploring Oliver’s Vegetables Preschool, K-2

Garden Literature: Exploring Seedfolks 6-8, 9-12

Create a Reading Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Growing Food 3-5

GrowLab: A Complete Guide to Gardening in the Classroom K-2, 3-5, 6-8

GrowLab: Activity Guide K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Sowing the Seeds of Wonder Preschool, K-2

Create a Butterfly Puddle Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Imperfect Flowers: A Design for Genetic Diversity 3-5, 6-8

Plants for Black Swallowtail Butterflies

Flower Adaptations to Lure Pollinators

Botany on Your Plate K-2, 3-5

Garden Adventures Preschool, K-2

Math in the Garden K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Books in Bloom K-2, 3-5

The Growing Classroom K-2, 3-5

Floral Design for Kids Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Carbon Cycle and Carbon Sequestration

Buckwheat Cover Crop

The Soil-Air Connection: A Carbon Cycle Lesson 9-12

Growing a Knowing Nose – A Scent Lesson 3-5

Designing a Sensory Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Designing Garden Spaces for Youth with Autism Spectrum Disorder Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Sensory Garden Plants Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Cabbage

Edible Landscaping K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Plant a Snack Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Make a Rainbow Bouquet Preschool, K-2, 3-5

State Flowers 3-5

Roses

Early-Season Garden Checklist Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Raised Beds 101

Preserving the School Harvest

Exploring Buds in the Winter 3-5, 6-8

Forcing Winter Blooms Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Citrus

Engaging Reluctant Gardeners Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Classroom Hydroponics 3-5

Hydroponics

Simple Straw Aeration Hydroponic System K-2, 3-5

Basil

Leaf and Flower Prints Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Sugar Maples

Ethnobotany for the Holidays 3-5

Fall Foliage: Why Leaves Change Colors

Plants and Garden Themes for Young Children Preschool

Gardening at Home With Young Children Preschool

Garden Activities for Families and Educators

Early Childhood Education Lessons and Activities Preschool

Start an Early Childhood Education Garden Program Preschool

Early Childhood Education Resources Preschool

Edamame

Make a Mud Pie Preschool, K-2

Soil is Alive! 6-8, 9-12

Mycorrhizae and Plants: An Amazing Partnership 6-8, 9-12

Scarlet Runner Beans

Save Your Seeds Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Seed Banks 3-5, 6-8

Growing and Saving Heirloom Seeds

Microgreens

Let There Be Light 3-5, 6-8

Sunflowers

Photoperiodism: Can Plants Tell Time? 6-8, 9-12

Pollinator Celebration Meal Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Choosing Flowers to Welcome a Diversity of Pollinators

Melons

Pollinator Lesson Plans & Activity Kit K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Victory Gardens

Teaching History in the Garden

Seed Balls Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Garden to Give Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Red Poppies

Remembering Memorial Day 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Design a Garden that Honors Individuality and Fosters Connection

Make a Garden Art Box Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Create an Accessible Garden for Those with Physical Limitations

Edible Flowers

Art in the Garden K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Plan a Trip to a Farmers’ Market Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Starting a School Farmers’ Market

Strawberries

Create a School Garden Business 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Dinosaur Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Growing Baby Ferns Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Garden How-to: Botanical Classification — or What’s in a Name?

Prehistoric Plants 3-5, 6-8

Swiss Chard

Plant People Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Make New Houseplants with a Rooting Pot

Make New Plants and Keep the Old (Asexual Propagation) K-2, 3-5

Sweet Potatoes

Make a Winterberry Wreath Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

How the Potato Changed World History

Indoor Greening K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Potatoes

Fruit Trees

Plant a Family Tree Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

How to Plant a Tree

Exploring Tree Rings 9-12

Homemade Botanical Paper Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Germination Exploration K-2, 3-5

Pumpkins

Saving Seeds

Raspberries

Exploring Food Preservation K-2, 3-5

Celebrating Apples Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Cucumbers

Fall Greens

Catching Water K-2, 3-5

Make a Worm Composting Bin Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Decomposition Observation Bags K-2, 3-5

Weather-Tracking Tools K-2, 3-5

Peppers

Scavenger Hunt in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Petal Attraction 3-5

Planting for Pollinators

Grow Your Own Herbal Tea K-2, 3-5

Six Easy-to-Grow Herbs

Herb Spiral Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Beans

Companion Planting

Garden by Age Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Tomatoes

Host a Community Planning Event 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Grow a Rainbow

Peas

Art in the Winter Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Exploring Plant Dyes K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Carrots

Getting Ready to Grow Under Lights

Lettuce

Kale

The Winter Bird-Friendly Schoolyard

Wild Bird Holiday Decorations Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Winter Bird Observation 3-5, 6-8

Reducing, Re-using and Recycling in the Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Rain Gardens 9-12

Create Overwintering Habitat with an “Untidy” Garden

Broccoli

Onion

Forcing Spring-Blooming Bulbs Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Bulb Botany 3-5

Chill Out 3-5

Growing Poems K-2, 3-5, 6-8

Plant Parts Salad Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Spinach

Safe Harvesting

Kohlrabi

Pressed Flowers and Leaves Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Insect Safari K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Start Early and End Late to Beat the Heat Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Plant a Sunflower House Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Three Sisters Garden K-2, 3-5

Be a Bee Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Safe Gardening Guidelines

Plants for Pre-K Gardens Preschool

Building a Lasagna Garden

Starting a Community Garden on School Grounds

Dealing with Garden Pests and Diseases

Indoor Gardening

Worm Composting

Composting

Grow Milkweed to Help Monarch Butterflies

Encourage Pollinators and Beneficial Insects

Put Your School Garden to Bed

Extend the Season with Plant Cover-ups

Plan for a Back-to-School Harvest

Maintaining a School Garden in Summer

Wise Watering

Garden Maintenance: Weeding, Mulching and Fertilizing

Transplanting and Direct Seeding

Preparing the Soil

All the Dirt on Soil

Indoor Seed Starting Q&A

When to Plant Seeds

Choosing What to Grow: Vegetables and Herbs

Consider Container Gardening

Plan for a Safe and Successful Edible Garden

Designing Garden Programs for All

Designing and Placing the Garden

School Farmers’ Markets: Helping Kids and Communities Grow

Strategies for a Growing Business

Nutrition Education in the Garden

Connecting the Garden to the Classroom

Sustaining Your Program

Cultivating Ownership

Designing Garden Programs for All

People Resources – Valuing Volunteers

Funding a School Garden Program

Finding Resources: Tools and Materials

Determining Garden Program Goals

Forming a Garden Committee

Gathering Support

Planning a Pollinator Garden 3-5, 6-8

The Plant-Soil Relationship 3-5

Soil Texture and Composition 3-5

Plants in Space 3-5, 6-8

Growing Garden Companions 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Lettuce Be Healthy K-2, 3-5

Journey to the Center of a Seed K-2, 3-5

Eat a Rainbow 3-5

Grow Your Own Salad Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Theme Gardens Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Building a Terrarium Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

A Pirate’s Garden Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Building a Maze Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Kitchen Scrap Gardening Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

Build a Fairy House Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Throw a Garden Birthday Party Preschool, K-2, 3-5

Planting a Flower Clock Preschool, K-2, 3-5, 6-8, 9-12

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Play, learn, and grow through the garden with our original educational resources. Explore below!

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I do not have a favorite go-to online resource, however, REAP was a really neat program to witness when I was subbing in the Madison Metropolitan School District!

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I do not have a favorite go-to online resource, however, REAP was a really neat program to witness when I was subbing in the Madison Metropolitan School District!

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Sorry, no slides matched your criteria.

By making a gift to REAP this summer, you will help us provide fresh, local, culturally-relevant food to children in schools, prepare local farmers to sell their products to businesses and institutions, and build the next generation of healthy eaters through youth education.

Thanks to a generous $3,500 match from REAP’s Board of Directors, your gift will make 2x the difference!

LEARN WHAT YOUR DOLLARS WILL DO LEARN WHAT YOUR DOLLARS WILL DO

DONATE TODAY! DONATE TODAY!

We envision a thriving local food system where all people have access to good food, grown well.

To transform communities, economies and lives through the power of good food.

We are inclusive.
We are a catalyst.
We are collaborators.
We are dedicated.
We are learners and teachers.
We celebrate.

CATCH UP ON OUR LATEST NEWS

Virtual Farm Tour at Wonka’s Harvest

On Tuesday, May 24, REAP Food Group, in partnership with Madison Metropolitan School District (MMSD) Food and Nutrition, zoomed into classrooms for our second Virtual Farm Tour, this time with farme...

Virtual Farm Tour at Vitruvian Farms

On Thursday, May 5, REAP Food Group, in partnership with Madison Metropolitan School District (MMSD) Food and Nutrition, zoomed into eighty-three classrooms for a Virtual Farm Tour at Vitruv...

REAP Food Group Welcomes New Executive Director

REAP Food Group’s staff and board are thrilled to welcome Philip Kauth as our new Executive Director. After earning a Ph.D. in Horticultural Sciences, Phil spent eight years working with the Iow...

OUR WORK IS MADE POSSIBLE WITH SUPPORT FROM:

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REAP Food Group – We make good food, grown well, available to all

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Fresh Farm / Food Prints - Social Justice and Activism in the Garden

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Fresh Farm / Food Prints - Social Justice and Activism in the Garden

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These lessons, based in DC learning standards, are fantastic!! Someone has clearly spent a long time laying out grade level appropriate, engaging lessons that center around the garden but also involve activism and social justice.  I used the Tree Conservation lesson this spring with my K-2 and a handful of 5th grades and they loved it! [link: https://www.freshfarm.org/foodprints/curriculum/lessons/tree-conservation] We even snuck into the teacher copier room and collected wasted copier paper to make into seed paper. It was hands on, engaging, and promoted some of my 5th grade students to ask their teachers to print their morning work on 1/2 sheets instead of whole sheets of copier paper in order to reduce waste. A little bit at a time!!

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Access three full lessons here to view the structure, depth, alignment, and versatility of our curriculum.

How to Access Our Curriculum

To access full versions of our 63 standards-based themed lessons by grade level, please register with us. Once you are registered, you will be able to download the full lesson PDFs on each lesson page.
Note: Currently, the Curriculum is in a limited release, with Pre-K through 3rd grade lessons available.
Terms of Use | Privacy Policy

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FoodPrints Curriculum Lessons - FRESHFARM

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Access three full lessons here to view the structure, depth, alignment, and versatility of our curriculum. How to Access Our Curriculum To access full versions of our 63 standards-based themed lessons by grade level, please register with us. Once you are registered, you will be able to download the full lesson PDFs on each lesson page.

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Whole Kids Foundation School Garden Lesson Plans

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Whole Kids Foundation School Garden Lesson Plans

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Terrific site with many fun gardening lesson plans, arranged by grade level and category. (Shared by Kelly Mitchell)

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The USDA Team Nutrition Garden resources and lesson plans are excellent for incorporating nutrition education into the garden.

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An official website of the United States government

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I love gardening with children because they can participate in an active way in the whole process also encourage them to eat healthy, builds self steem and make them feel productive, allows team building ,promotes communication skills, give the kids a sense of responsibility and foster mindfulness 

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I love gardening with children because they can participate in an active way in the whole process also encourage them to eat healthy, builds self steem and make them feel productive, allows team building ,promotes communication skills, give the kids a sense of responsibility and foster mindfulness 

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Maricela chavarria , TenderHearts Learning Center

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Gardening With Kids

Gardens can be a great place to cultivate a meaningful and fun learning experience for children. It's a natural match. Gardening can offer children an opportunity to learn the life cycle process, by which plants are grown, as well as responsibility, caretaking, independence, and environmental awareness. Introducing children to gardening is a great way to increase their awareness of where food comes from and the importance of the environment in everyday life.
Gardening Basics
One of the most important things to determine when starting a garden is the location. Ideally the garden should be placed in an area where it will receive maximum sunlight. It is also important to determine the soil quality of the area and assess what needs to be added to the soil chemistry to maximize growth potential. The soil should be dug six to ten inches. Layering the soil with some kind of organic material will help to strengthen it. Drawing up a plan of the garden is another way to help make the most of the garden's potential. Tallest plants should be at the north end of the garden, while permanent plants should be on the sides. For those who don't have a lot of space to garden, containers are another option for growing plants. Containers can be made from materials such as plastic or clay, and must have adequate drainage to avoid root rot. Plants grown in containers should be planted in a ready to use potting soil and watered frequently. Some basic gardening tools to have handy are rakes, hoes, spades, trowels, and watering cans.
At Planet Natural we're here to help you create a successful and memorable growing season with just the right-sized tools and equipment, planting kits and bug collectors to get the whole family involved! Kid-Friendly Gardening Tips
For backyard gardens, a great way to spark a child's interest is to reserve a small patch of the garden that belongs to the child. A 3×3 area is a great starting point. In this area, the child can decide what will be grown, and have room to experiment without impacting the other plants in the garden. There are child friendly garden tools that should be purchased to ensure the safety of the child gardener. Spades, cultivators, rakes, and hoes can all be bought in child sizes. Kids also enjoy exploring. Turning the garden into a little place of adventure is another great way to get children interested in gardening. Making a fun area such as a teepee or small enclosure and covering it with flowers, vines, or climbing beans can be a fun and special area for children to enjoy. The number one tip to remember when implementing a kid-friendly garden is to keep it fun. When instructing, keep the advice light, fun, and easy to understand.
Plants Kids Love to Grow
When selecting plants to grow with children, it is important to incorporate plants that the children will enjoy growing most. Children enjoy plants that have strong smells, grow quickly, and are easily recognizable. In most cases, selecting plants that have larger seeds are easier for small hands to handle. Sunflower, pea, pumpkin, and squash plants all meet these criteria. Plants that can be snacked on are also fun for children. As the food grows, it can be easily picked, such as snow peas. Lettuce, radishes, and cherry tomatoes grow quickly, which is great for children who tend to have a harder time with patience. Carrots, potatoes, and pumpkins are also fun plants for children to grow because they are easily recognizable. Children are very sensory, and enjoy unique sensory plants. Planting crops that range in textures from fuzzy, rubbery, prickly, and smooth can be very fun for children to experiment with.
Gardening Projects for Kids
Gardening with kids allows for the garden to become a very creative place. Kids love color and gardens can be a very colorful place. Rainbow gardens are a fun theme for children to participate in. Plants that represent the colors of the rainbow (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, and indigo) are great teaching tools that are exciting for children to plant. Another enjoyable and popular themed garden activity for children is to create a pizza garden. Organize the crops in a circle, and assign different wedges to represent different ingredients of a pizza. In each wedge, plant crops that can be found on a real pizza such as tomatoes, onions, peppers, garlic, wheat/oats, and colorful representations like marigolds. When the crops are grown, they can be used to make a pizza as a fun and tasty representation of the child's accomplishment.
Garden Projects for Kids Kids Gardening Tools, Games and Planting Kits Winter Gardening Activities for Kids Fall Gardening Projects for Kids Fun Activities With Plants Grow Nutrition at Home! The Children's Garden Project Michigan 4-H Children's Garden Presented by Michigan State University Kidsgardening.org City Blossoms School Garden and Plant-Based Education Resource Youth Gardening

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Kids Gardening: Tips, Ideas and Projects | Planet Natural

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Gardening With Kids Gardens can be a great place to cultivate a meaningful and fun learning experience for children. It's a natural match. Gardening can offer children an opportunity to learn the life cycle process, by which plants are grown, as well as responsibility, caretaking, independence, and environmental awareness.

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I love Nature Gardening, because it teaches the children to explore there minds on planting healthy food.  Emily Martin Tenderheart Center

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Tend, Gather and Grow is a project dedicated to educating youth about wild edible and medicinal plants and the rich cultural traditions that surround them. Through developing a teaching toolkit on Northwest plants and providing teacher trainings, the project aims to build food security, promote health and facilitate connections with the land.

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Connecting Youth with Plants, Place, and Culture

Tend, Gather and Grow is a project dedicated to educating youth about wild edible and medicinal plants and the rich cultural traditions that surround them. Through developing a teaching toolkit on Northwest plants and providing teacher trainings, the project aims to build food security, promote health and facilitate connections with the land.

Tend, Gather & Grown Workshops & Teacher Trainings

We know that teachers & leaders have busy lives, and we are now offering a series of one-day teacher training workshops on various units of the Tend, Gather & Grow curriculum. The series kicks off on December 9th with Evergreen Tree Medicine and wraps up in October 2019 with Wild Food Traditions. Elise Krohn will also be offering an evening community workshop series for traditional plant enthusiasts & students. Check out our events page to see what workshops are coming up soon.

Tend, Gather & Grow Program Philosophy

Nature Deficit Disorder: children spend an average of 30 minutes playing outside per day yet interact with screens for seven hours. They can identify over 1,000 logos but fewer than 10 native plants.

Influenced by a fast-paced society, youth share the experience of frequenting supermarkets and convenience stores where they access high calorie processed foods and globally sourced produce. In addition to contributing to alarming rates of malnutrition, obesity, heart disease, and other chronic illnesses, a lack of connection to food production and the path it takes to reach our tables results in detachment from the environmental and economic issues that drive food insecurities.

Educating younger generations on the gifts of the land has always been a cornerstone of indigenous teachings to strengthen mind, body, and spirit.

As Skokomish Elder Bruce Miller said, “The Forest was once our Walmart.” The Pacific Northwest is teeming with wild plants including berries, greens, roots and seeds that are nutritionally superior to store-bought foods. Wild plants also provide medicine and materials for traditional technologies. These common and accessible “weeds” are often found in our own backyards.

Revitalizing Wild, Edible and Medicinal Plant Knowledge

During GRuB’s 15 years in building just and sustainable food systems, the value of revitalizing wild edible and medicinal plant knowledge has emerged as a priority. In spring of 2016, GRuB educator, Elise Krohn gathered a team of twelve people with skills in plant knowledge, innovative teaching techniques, tribal food sovereignty, community programming, evaluation, media outreach, cultural resilience and holistic approaches to nutrition and wellness to develop the Tend, Gather and Grow Teaching Toolkit. Six team members are tribal.

The toolkit is for community educators and K-12 instructors with an emphasis on serving Native and regional communities, and includes:

A curriculum covering over 25 northwest plants. The 60+ lessons align with Science, Technology, Engineering, Art, Mathematics (STEAM) education principles and Next Generation Science Standards.

Short teaching videos featuring Salish storytellers, plant experts and youth.

Educational materials including games, posters, plant identification cards and recipes.

Through hands-on activities, students explore themes in wild food traditions, herbal medicine, plant technologies, cultural ecosystems, tree communities and the art of noticing.

Indigenous plant knowledge is woven throughout the curriculum. This, as well as plant knowledge from other cultures, grounds students in who they are and connects them to where they live. Lessons are being piloted in diverse teaching environments including public, tribal and private schools, community classes, outdoor camps and aftercare programs.

The Tend project draws upon regional Native knowledge keepers to ensure learning reflects a cultural resilience and holistic approach to nutrition and wellness. As opposed to standard classroom lectures and testing, learning is built upon student strengths, such as awakening knowledge of common plants and the engagement of tactile senses to ignite an intrinsic curiosity of nature. Participating youth will gain skills to tell their own stories through writing, artwork and video production.

Proposed Tend, Gather and Grow outcomes include:

Increase youth access to and consumption of nutritious wild plants.

Fill an unmet need for youth-centered educational resources on wild foods and medicines that are hands-on, placed based, multi-media and culturally relevant.

Build student media skills and media literacy through curriculum activities and video projects to support career and technical training.

Develop student skills in sensory observation, storytelling and documentation as a means for self-expression and social change.

Build a sense of cultural pride among Northwest Native children and youth, and a greater understanding of indigenous people and connection to local landscapes among non-native students.

Increase the number of community educators who teach children and youth about healthy food behaviors, physical activity and positive interactions with the land.

Build partnerships across organizations and tribal entities with shared goals.

Provide a positive programmatic model that is driven by community need, student evaluation, and is carried out in collaboration with the beneficiary communities.

Tend, Gather and Grow Project Funders and Partners include: Feeding Seven Generations, The Squaxin Island Tribe, The Muckleshoot Tribe, The Tulalip Tribes, The Suquamish Tribe, The Nisqually Tribe, The Puyallup Tribe, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s Connecting People with Nature Program, Washington Dental Health, Hancock Forestry, Pacific Education Institute and University of Washington Center for Ecogenetics and Environmental Health and Center for Conservation Biology.

For more information on the project please contact Elise Krohn at elise@goodgrub.org.

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GRuB's Tend, Gather and Grow Team

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Tend, Gather and Grow is a project dedicated to educating youth about wild edible and medicinal plants and the rich cultural traditions that surround them.

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Website is devoted to school and community gardening, including a link to Home & Garden Information Center, which has hundreds of fact sheets on every gardening topic. Great resources for gardeners in the Southeast United States.
~Ally Burnett, Gardening Co-Coordinator at Programs for Exceptional People (PEP)

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Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to people of all ages, regardless of race, color, gender, religion, national origin, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, gender identity, marital or family status and is an equal opportunity employer.

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School & Community Gardening | College of Agriculture, Forestry and Life Sciences | Clemson University, South Carolina

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Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to people of all ages, regardless of race, color, gender, religion, national origin, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, gender identity, marital or family status and is an equal opportunity employer.

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(Wisconsin-based) REAP brings local produce to schools, provides local farm information, educational field trips to gardens and farms, and much more.
- Rachel Kittel

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By making a gift to REAP this summer, you will help us provide fresh, local, culturally-relevant food to children in schools, prepare local farmers to sell their products to businesses and institutions, and build the next generation of healthy eaters through youth education.

Thanks to a generous $3,500 match from REAP’s Board of Directors, your gift will make 2x the difference!

LEARN WHAT YOUR DOLLARS WILL DO LEARN WHAT YOUR DOLLARS WILL DO

DONATE TODAY! DONATE TODAY!

We envision a thriving local food system where all people have access to good food, grown well.

To transform communities, economies and lives through the power of good food.

We are inclusive.
We are a catalyst.
We are collaborators.
We are dedicated.
We are learners and teachers.
We celebrate.

CATCH UP ON OUR LATEST NEWS

Virtual Farm Tour at Wonka’s Harvest

On Tuesday, May 24, REAP Food Group, in partnership with Madison Metropolitan School District (MMSD) Food and Nutrition, zoomed into classrooms for our second Virtual Farm Tour, this time with farme...

Virtual Farm Tour at Vitruvian Farms

On Thursday, May 5, REAP Food Group, in partnership with Madison Metropolitan School District (MMSD) Food and Nutrition, zoomed into eighty-three classrooms for a Virtual Farm Tour at Vitruv...

REAP Food Group Welcomes New Executive Director

REAP Food Group’s staff and board are thrilled to welcome Philip Kauth as our new Executive Director. After earning a Ph.D. in Horticultural Sciences, Phil spent eight years working with the Iow...

OUR WORK IS MADE POSSIBLE WITH SUPPORT FROM:

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REAP Food Group – We make good food, grown well, available to all

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In our schools, gardening space can be limited and large gardens can be hard and expensive to maintain. This website has lots of great tips for making best use of precious resources.

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Square Foot Gardening is the proven, efficient, small-space way to grow vegetables, used for over 40 years. Created by Mel Bartholomew, author of the best-selling gardening book in North America, this fun and easy Method has taught millions of first time gardeners how to grow their own organic, delicious produce.

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Square Foot Gardening is the proven, efficient, small-space way to grow vegetables, used for over 40 years. Created by Mel Bartholomew, author of the best-selling gardening book in North America, this fun and easy Method has taught millions of first time gardeners how to grow their own organic, delicious produce.

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There's no doubt about it: gardens engage and inspire youth, allowing educators to reach students in fun, effective ways. There's something contagious about the feel of dirt under your fingernails and the excitement generated by watching a living thing sprout, grow, and bloom under your care. A special feature of a garden as an educational tool is the flexibility it offers to develop and implement activities and programs for learners of all ages and abilities.

"The garden provides opportunities to reach students using all Multiple Intelligence learning styles [kinesthetic, naturalist, interpersonal, intrapersonal, musical, linguistic, logical, and spatial," says educator Carrie Banks. Carrie directs the Brooklyn Public Libraries' Child's Place for Children with Special Needs, which has offered an inclusive garden program component since 1999. Carrie has witnessed the power of the garden to reach a diverse youth audience, both with and without disabilities.

"Our garden program began when a library educator noticed an alley with some dirt at one of the libraries and suggested a couple of sessions to clean it up and plant in it. That was the spark that got things moving," Carrie explains. A decade later, the garden has become an integral part of the afterschool programming.

The main goal of the Child's Place is to "make sure kids with special needs have the same opportunities as their typically developing peers, because so often special needs kids are turned away from out-of-school activities." The program is open to children of all ages, with and without disabilities, including those with developmental delays, cerebral palsy, Attention Deficit Disorder (ADD), Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD), multiple disabilities, mental illness, on the autism spectrum, and who are deaf or blind. The garden component has provided a number of unique benefits to help in achieving success.

"It's not always easy to spark conversation between kids who don't know each other, but the activity of gardening naturally inspires kids to talk to each other in an unforced way," says Carrie. "One day we were working on a garden-related collage project. The leader was helping a young girl with cerebral palsy who had difficulty with motor skills place her pieces. Another child offered a suggestion for the collage, and within 10 minutes the two children were working together without the aid of the leader."

"Additionally," Carrie continues, "because we work with urban youth, everyone is new to gardening so no one has an advantage. This is worth a lot. With some other activities, especially those on academic calendars, kids without disabilities may have more experience. But these are city kids, and no one knows anything about growing plants."

Designing an accessible container garden and adapting tools for the children were an important part of the program's creation. Carrie believes that educational programs that encourage equal participation by all children "are key to making inclusion work. If children who are blind or have poor gross motor skills shows up unexpectedly, it is important that you not need to scramble to adapt the program to their needs. Those children should fit seamlessly into the existing activities. When this happens, they know they are truly welcome."
Carrie shares the following tips for designing flexible, accessible garden programs:

Work as a group or in pairs to promote cooperation and teamwork.

Do not operate on a strict schedule and avoid time pressures. If you can't finish everything in the allotted time, let the kids take projects home.

Recruit plenty of volunteers. Staff and volunteers should be available to work one-on-one with children to assist with comprehension or focus issues.

Use the Pictorial Exchange Communication System (PECS) to provide structure to the program. This is helpful for everyone. At the Child's Place, Meyer Johnson symbols are incorporated into each activity to aid communication. The picture cards facilitate communication for children who do not speak or sign by allowing them to point to the symbols on the cards to express themselves. The people with whom they are communicating likewise point to the appropriate cards as they speak.

If you use interpreters, book them well in advance to assure availability. Before the session starts, discuss any jargon or proper nouns in your material with the interpreter. Adjust your reading rhythm so that you never run ahead of the interpreter. We've found it useful to interpret both what adult leaders say to children and what children say to each other. In this way, for example, the interpreter can facilitate communication between a child who speaks Cantonese, one who speaks English, and one who is deaf. Communication is the basic building block of inclusion.

Post an outline of the day's events and make it visible from the beginning of the program. We highlight any words and themes that are frequently repeated.

Safety is paramount. Make sure all the tools and plants you use are child safe and use only natural pest control methods. We conduct all outdoor gardening in enclosed spaces and closely supervise the children. They wear hats for sun protection and we provide latex-free garden gloves.

Participating in inclusive garden programs benefits all children involved. In addition to plantings, you sow seeds of understanding and acceptance that will last them a lifetime.

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There's no doubt about it: gardens engage and inspire youth, allowing educators to reach students in fun, effective ways. There's something contagious about the feel of dirt under your fingernails and the excitement generated by watching a living thing sprout, grow, and bloom under your care.

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https://ext.vt.edu/natural-resources/forest-farming.html

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Forest farming is the cultivation of desirable plants underneath a forest canopy. This involves intentionally managing the components of the forest to produce these non-timber forest products. Examples of non-timber forest products include medicinal herbs like ginseng, decorative plants like ferns, and food crops like mushrooms. Management techniques might include adjusting the light level on the forest floor by thinning or pruning trees, increasing plant populations by site preparation or seedling, or improving plant growth by weeding or thinning. Forest farming can provide income on a relatively short-term basis, while high-value timber is being produced over a longer term.

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Forest farming is the cultivation of desirable plants underneath a forest canopy. This involves intentionally managing the components of the forest to produce these non-timber forest products.

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https://extension.illinois.edu/newsletters/gardeners-corner

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Microclovers making a comeback as lawns grow in biodiversity

By Horticulture Educator Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle

Clovers are making a comeback in lawn seed mixes. Today many families want to attract more pollinators to their yards. They are searching for ecologically sound ways to grow grass, including adding white clover back to the turf seed mix. Clover adds diversity to lawns and provides food for bees says Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

If you are looking for an eco-sustainable alternative to lawns, try adding clover to your lawn. The short growing, self-fertilizing, low maintenance, long-living micro clover species will provide more a more biodiverse, durable grass lawn.

White clover, Trifolium repens, was common in lawns before the introduction of broadleaf weed herbicides in the 1950s. Although broadleaves weeds were typically the target of these chemicals, white clover was often damaged or killed.

All clovers are in the legume, or pea, family. Legumes are very useful plants for our environment because they pull nitrogen from the air and convert it into nitrogen in the soil that helps feed plants. Unlike any other plant, legumes create their own fertilizer. Because of these characteristics, there is interest in using microclover in lawns to enhance turfgrass growth and reduce nitrogen fertilizer applications which helps limit fertilizer runoff into waterways.

Unfortunately, white clover sometimes forms clumps and competes with desirable turfgrass, resulting in a non-uniform lawn appearance. Microclover (Trifolium repens var. ‘Pirouette’ and ‘Pipolina’) is a selection of white clover with smaller leaves and a slower, less aggressive growth habit.

Preliminary research finds that microclover mixes better with most turfgrass species than common white clover when seeded at appropriate rates. The microclover seed often comes coated with a Rhizobium bacterium – a natural organism that the plant needs to fix nitrogen, sometimes lacking in residential lawn soils.

There are many benefits to adding microclover to a lawn. It mixes well with turf grasses and provides a uniform appearance while its flowers are a food source for bees. Microclover is competitive with weeds, so less herbicide is necessary. And it helps prevent soil compaction which reduces nutrient runoff.

Lawn clippings that include microclover are a natural organic nitrogen source, which means you can reduce how many times you apply nitrogen.

But microclover may not be suitable for every lawn. It does not tolerate high heat and drought and does not do well in shady conditions. Microclover may require reseeding for long-term growth in the lawn and its top growth dies back in the winter, which can leave bare spots and lead to erosion. Its seeds are expensive and not readily available in retail stores. Most broadleaf herbicides labeled for use in lawns will kill microclover

To establish micro-clover in a lawn, plan to plant between early spring to late summer. No tilling is required. Mow the grass low before seeding. Set the mower to the lowest setting to reduce competition with existing grass. Rake and core aerate the soil.

Sow microclover seed by hand or use a broadcast spreader for a more even distribution in larger areas. Water the area every day for the first seven to 10 days because the soil needs to stay moist until the microclover has sprouted. White clover typically blooms in mid-March and grows slower during the summer months.

For more information on lawn care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

To outsmart weeds in the garden, take multiple approaches

By Horticulture Educator Sarah Vogel

As gardeners know, weeds will grow nearly anywhere. Even cracks in the pavement can sustain plant life if there is soil, water, and light. Whether a plant is considered a weed depends on how it is affecting the intended use of the site and who is looking at it.

A white oak seedling is not typically considered a weed, but if it’s growing in a vegetable garden it is often treated as one. Some gardeners eliminate broadleaves to maintain a perfectly manicured lawn, though if you’re a hungry pollinator insect, a dandelion, violet, or clover flower may be a welcome sight.

Photo by Sarah Vogel. A mechanical approach to weed suppression is best achieved when weeds are small. Tilling, hoeing, shoveling, weeding by hand, using a flame weeder, as in this case, are efficient but may be impractical for large areas.

Weeds compete with desirable species for available moisture and nutrients. They can harbor pests and diseases, or even present health hazards. Occasionally weeds are so troublesome that removal is required by the Illinois noxious weed law. Characteristics that make weeds so successful also makes them difficult to control, and gardeners should consider a management strategy to keep weeds in check.

Because weeds reproduce through many means, they must be managed at various times throughout the growing season. The most successful approach is through a combination of control methods and proper timing. To minimize cost and environmental effects, use mechanical or cultural techniques to control weeds before trying pesticides.

Prevent weeds

The first line of defense against weeds is keeping desirable plants healthy. Choose disease-resistant varieties of species that are adapted to the site where they will be planted. Place the right plant in the right site, scout for pests and diseases regularly, provide adequate water and fertilizer, and cover bare soil for weed prevention.

Grow healthy lawns: Keeping a healthy, dense stand of turfgrass is the best way to keep broadleaves out. In established turf, mow lawns high before weeds produce flowers. Lawns mowed at higher deck height have deeper roots and fewer weeds.

Apply mulch: In landscape or vegetable beds, apply mulch to suppress weeds, prevent soil temperature fluctuations, retain moisture, and add organic matter back to the soil. Organic mulch sources are wood chips, shredded bark, straw, grass clippings, shredded leaves, or compost. Inorganic options include landscape fabric, punctured black plastic, or clear plastic which creates a heating effect called solarization.

Grow cover crops: Cover crops are another way to manage weeds in both new and established areas. Some species are chosen for their ability to replenish soil nutrients, while others improve soil tilth, or its physical condition. Cover crops keep weeds in check by forming a living mulch since they grow densely. When the garden bed is ready for use, some cover crops can be turned under and put to work as green manure.

When establishing a new garden plot, manage weeds before planting or you may wind up in a losing battle all growing season. If the pressures of weeds in your garden beds become too demanding, you may consider alternative growing systems like raised beds or containers.

Controlling weeds

A mechanical approach to weed supression is best achieved when weeds are small. tilling, hoeing, shoveling, using a flame weeder, or simply weeding by hand are efficient but may be impractical for large plots. Some perennial weeds may require repeat management.

Chemical control may not be necessary to treat weeds, and most herbicides are not recommended for vegetable gardens. How effective a product is depends on the type of herbicide used, when it’s applied, coverage, and environmental conditions. Applying unnecessary herbicides can cause harm to plants, soil, water, beneficial insects like pollinators, or humans. Always read and follow label directions when using pesticides.

For more information on weed control options, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Support pollinators with cheerful viola flowers

By Horticulture Educator Brittnay Haag

Roses are red, violets are blue and they have also earned top honors being named Plant of the Year by the International Herb Association. Every year, the association selects plants that are considered outstanding for decorative, culinary, or medicinal use. This year, they have selected Viola, a genus of flowering plants.

With their brightly-colored blooms that resemble cheerful faces peeking out of the foliage, Violas make a great addition to any early-season container or garden plantings. Blooms can be found in a variety of colors, including solids, bicolor, and mixes.

In the language of flowers, a common practice in the Victorian era that allowed messages and emotions to be shared with others, Violas symbolize thoughts filled with love. It is also the birth flower of those born in February.

Members of the genus Viola – including pansies, violets, and Johnny jump ups – are cool-season plants that grow best in spring and fall. They should be planted in areas with morning sun and moist, well-drained soils. As the weather warms in late May and June, many cool-season plants will fade out and stop blooming but can be moved to a cool, shady place in the garden to extend their growing season.

Violas are also great for pollinators. These cool-season annuals supply early spring pollinators with much-needed nectar.

In early March, pollinators emerge looking for food sources to survive. There are very few flowering plants at that time, except spring-blooming bulbs like grape hyacinth and crocus. Planting cool-season annuals provide an important addition to their spring diet. Johnny jump up flowers even have thin dark stripes that serve as guides for the pollinators to find nectar as they visit the flowers and pollinate other flowering plants by transferring pollen.

When planting Violas in spring or fall containers, add interesting twigs, like birch, contorted filbert, or curly willow to the center of containers. These elements add height and interest to the arrangement of low-growing flowers. If planting these annuals in-ground, group them in large masses to create waves of color amongst shrubs, ornamental grasses, or perennials.

An added bonus to including pansies or violets in the garden is that the flowers can be harvested and added as a colorful edible garnish to soups, salads, and desserts. They can also be candied for a sweet treat. If you plan on eating the flowers, raise them without chemical treatment.

Past International Herb Association Plants of the Year to also consider planting in your garden are parsley (Petroselinum), anise hyssop (Agastache ssp.), coriander/cilantro (Coriandrum sativum), and savory (Saturea ssp.).

For more information on gardening, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Feed your community by safely donating homegrown fruits, vegetables

By Staci Coussens, SNAP-Ed Educator, and Nick Frillman Local Food Systems and Small Farms Educator

When home gardens are bursting with an overabundance of fresh produce, growers start looking for ways to share their bounty. Backyard gardeners can help feed their community by donating fruits and vegetables to local food pantries.

Growers planning on donating to food distribution centers can take steps, even before they plant, to ensure they are providing safe, useable produce.

Click to enlarge. A print-friendly PDF version of this graphic is available for download at go.illinois.edu/DonateProduceGuide.

Connect with your local food pantry

Donating garden crops starts with connecting with a local food pantry. Donors can find a list of pantries that will accept produce at ampleharvest.org.

The pantry’s listing will show what produce is accepted and pantry distribution times. Contact information for the pantry manager is provided so donors can find out what the preferred drop-off time is.

The pantry manager can also advise on what produce is best to donate and what their pantry users like. Preference varies across the state, but the most popular fresh produce items at pantries are greens, peppers, and tomatoes.

If the pantry does not have a refrigerator, only produce that is safe to store at room temperature, such as potatoes and onions, can be donated. However, donors may be able to bring produce just before distribution time so it can be handed out on that day.

Grow with Good Agricultural Practices

Under the 1996 Bill Emerson Good Samaritan Food Donation Act, gardeners who donate fresh fruit and vegetables in good faith to nonprofit organizations for distribution to people in need from criminal and civil liability will not be held liable if someone becomes sick after eating the produce. Nick Frillman, Illinois Extension Local Foods Systems and Small Farms educator, says gardeners should follow good growing practices to reduce chances of food contamination.

Good Agricultural Practices, or GAP, is a set of guidelines created by the USDA that help to reduce the risk of microbial contamination in fruits, vegetables, and nuts and aims to make sure these foods are safe for you or anyone that receives your food donation to eat.

Gardeners planning on donating produce should pay attention to the major factors that affect food safety:

Soil preparation

Harvest handling and sorting

Produce washing, packing, and storage.

Soil prepartion: Most gardeners do not use manure, but this is one of the most likely ways fresh produce is contaminated. Do not use animal manure or manure-based compost at least 120 days before planting in vegetable gardens. Instead, use finished compost, available in bulk from landscaping suppliers or in bags at garden centers.

Photo by Nick Frillman. These ‘Marbonne’ tomatoes were grown at the Unity Community Center’s Food Production and Demonstration Garden in Normal, Ill. All produce from the garden goes to local food pantries.

All food safety concerns are important, but especially so for crops that are typically consumed raw, like greens, tomatoes, or melons. Outbreaks in particular with these types of crops often make the news because they don’t require cooking to be eaten. With crops like potatoes, cabbage, winter squash and others that are rarely consumed raw, there is some added protection because the cooking required to eat these foods kills pathogenic microbes.

Growers should take extra precautions with consumed-raw crops. Trellis tomato and pepper plants so that fruits do not have contact with the soil. Wash hands when working with crops, especially on harvest day.

Harvest and sorting: After harvesting crops, inspect them for things like insect damage, mold, yellow or off-color leaves, bugs, and rot. Creating a sorting station that is used to discard these types of things before continuing the harvest process. Do not let these items make it into the harvest bin.

Washing, packing, and storage: Make sure that the containers used to deliver food donations are washed with fresh, soapy water, scrubbed out, sanitized with a light food-grade sanitizer, rinsed, and dried. Produce put in dirty bins – or even clean bins that are still wet – are subject to bacterial contamination.

Washing is necessary for some crops and not for others. In fact, washing some vegetables, such as tomatoes and peppers, can increase the risk of food safety issues. Greens should be washed with fresh municipal tap water, or a water source that is regularly tested for bacteria.

For more information on gardening, donating produce, or finding a local food pantry, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Tips for harvesting garden vegetables

By Horticulture Educator Ken Johnson

Whether you started your first garden this year or are a veteran grower, we’re coming up on the heart of harvest season. One of the advantages of homegrown vegetables is that you can harvest produce at its peak quality and flavor.

But knowing when to harvest a crop can be difficult, especially if it’s your first time growing it.

General Harvest Tips

Harvest in the morning: Almost all vegetables are best when harvested early in the morning. If you can’t harvest in the morning, keep produce out of direct sunlight and cool as soon as possible.

Harvest when plants are dry: When it comes time to harvest your vegetables, make sure plants are dry. If you harvest while plants are wet, you risk spreading diseases. It’s also important to handle plants with care and avoid damaging them.

Use pruners: Damaged areas can provide openings for diseases to enter. If the vegetables you are trying to harvest don’t easily come off, cut them off with a knife or pruners to avoid damaging the plant.

Snap or green beans should be picked when the pods are fully grown but before the seeds have started to get large. The beans should be crisp and snap easily. When picking, break off the stem above the cap and harvest frequently.

Cucumbers should be harvested before their skin turns yellow and the seeds become hard. The size of the cucumber will vary depending on the type. Pickling cucumbers are usually picked when they are between 2 and 6 inches long. Slicing pickles should be picked at 6 to 8 inches long and burpless should be 1 to 1½ inches in diameter and up to 10 inches long. Cucumbers develop quickly, so plants may need to be checked every other day.

Photo by Ken Johnson. These tomatoes are nearly ripe. Pick fruits when they are firm and fully colored. When temperatures are above 90°F, pick tomatoes when they begin to develop color and ripen them indoors.

Peppers can be harvested at any size. Green bell peppers are typically picked when they are mature and about 3 to 4 inches long, firm, and green. If you are growing colored bell peppers, wait until the fruits change color. One way to tell if the fruit is mature is that they will easily break off of plants when picked. Hot peppers can also be picked at any stage but are typically picked when fully ripe. The mature color of the fruit will be different depending on the variety.

Summer squash (straightneck, crookneck, or zucchini) should be harvested when they are small and tender. Pick when the fruits are 2 inches or less in diameter and 6 to 8 inches long. “When growing conditions are favorable, you may need to harvest every other day or daily,” Johnson says.

Winter squash (acorn, butternut, pumpkins) can be harvested when the fruits have turned a deep, solid color, no longer have a glossy appearance, and the rind is hard. Leave at least 2 inches of stem attached and harvest all squash before heavy frosts arrive.

Tomatoes are at their best quality when allowed to ripen on the vine. Tomatoes should be firm and fully colored. During hot conditions, 90°F, tomatoes will quickly soften, and color development is reduced. During these conditions, pick tomatoes when they begin to develop color and ripen them indoors. If plants still have fruit on them in fall, you can harvest mature green fruit before the first frost and ripen them indoors.

For more information on vegetable gardening, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Create backyard paradise with tropical plant garden

By Horticulture Educator Andrew Holsinger

Summer may be the season for vacations, but if you can’t get away create your own backyard paradise with a tropical plant garden.

Tropical plants can be planted in the ground or in containers and overwintered inside. Treat tropical plants as annuals in the Illinois landscape.

Tropical plants are known to be heat-loving and enjoy the humidity we have in Illinois over the summer. When grown indoors, a humidifier can be a wise investment to replicate the environment they grow best in.

Some plants may be sensitive to direct sunlight, so be cautious in your site selection. Plants that prefer full sun may not get their intense coloring if the container is shaded at all.

Overwintering tropical plants is also an option, especially when grown in containers. Size may be a consideration as the size of the container may influence the size of your tropical plant. Pots of various sizes may be used but 24-to-36-inch diameter pots are a good start. Scout for pests before bringing plants indoors for overwintering.

Photo by Andrew Holsinger. Elephant ear is the common name of one tropical plant with big, broad leaves. The tuber or corm can be saved to be planted the next year. When planting, orient the corm or tuber correctly. Shoots are the first to emerge and should be planted upright.

The root zone is one of the most important parts of growing tropical plants. Bark-based commercial mixes do well for containers, especially when supplemented with a slow-release fertilizer and a water-retention agent. Water-absorptive materials such as sphagnum peat moss or coconut coir need to be balanced with good drainage. Add wood chips to the bottom of containers filled with potting mix.

Elephant ear is the common name of one tropical plant with big, broad leaves. The tuber or corm can be saved to be planted the next year. When planting, orient the corm or tuber correctly. Shoots are the first to emerge and should be planted upright.

Cannas are rhizomes and can have some spread. Many different types of foliage and flowers add to the beauty of this plant when in a container. Rhizomes may need to be divided as they enlarge over time.

Caladiums can make a strong visual statement with a range of colors from pure white to burgundy. This plant likes moist, shady locations. Enrich the soil with compost or humus to enhance the moisture and nutrient retention.

Tropical plants need regular maintenance. They need frequent watering when grown in containers and fertilizing with a slow-release fertilizer will allow them to grow to their fullest potential. Remove dead foliage or flowers and trim excess growth to aid in the health of the plant and keep plants balanced in the container with their counterparts.

Be sure to research the requirements and culture of the tropical plants you choose to grow. Use caution when selecting plants as some have toxic properties. For example, castor bean has toxic seeds.

To complete the tropical effect, considering adding tropical-looking hardy perennials. Clumping bamboo is a non-invasive option compared to other bamboo species.

For more information on tropical plant care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Overwhelmed by garden produce? Pickle it!

By Nutrition and Wellness Educator Mary Liz Wright

Sour, sweet, bread and butter, Kosher dills, spears, chips, or slices on a sandwich, or as a snack or side dish – pickles are everywhere. For home gardeners with an abundance of cucumbers and other produce, pickling is a great way to preserve your bounty.

While cucumbers are one of the most commonly pickled items, many foods can be pickled says Mary Liz Wright, University of Illinois Extension nutrition and wellness educator.

Fruit, eggs, artichokes, mushrooms – you name it and it can probably be pickled.

Pickling is an ancient form of food preservation, dating back to 2030 BC when cucumbers from India were pickled in the Tigris Valley. The word “pickle” comes from the Dutch pekel or northern German pókel, meaning “salt” or “brine.”

The pickling process, for the most part, falls into two categories or methods: quick pickles and fermented pickles. Fresh pack or quick pickles are made with vinegar and salt solution or a vinegar and sugar solution. Fermented pickles require time and salt to do the preserving.

Every region of the world has its own form of pickling as a way to extend the life of fruits and vegetables before refrigeration. Eastern Europe has Kosher dills and lacto-fermented cabbage, known as sauerkraut. English sweet pickles are made with vinegar, sugar, and spices, while the French serve tiny, spiced cornichons or cucumbers. In the Middle East, pickled foods are served with every meal, from olives to lemons. Russians pickle tomatoes, and Koreans have spicy kimchi. The Japanese pickle plums and daikon radishes, and Italians pickle eggplants and peppers.

When selecting cucumbers for pickling, chose fresh and firm pickling cucumbers. Cut 1/16 inch off of the blossom end. Use these ingredients in recipes: canning or pickling salt, white granulated sugar or brown sugar, and vinegar with 5% acidity.

To learn more about how to pickle and to find recipes, visit Illinois Exension’s website go.illinois.edu/PicklingFoods. Wright also suggests exploring the National Center for Home Food Preservation at bit.ly/3LtK6sC. Or, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Click to enlarge.

Refrigerator Pickles

These easy pickles can be made in minutes and will keep in your refrigerator for 3 to 4 weeks.

Ingredients

Vegetables of your choice

3 Cups water

3 Cups white or apple cider vinegar (5% acidity)

Pickling salt

Sugar

Dry herbs/spices (optional): Bay leaves, celery seed, chili peppers, cumin seed, dill seed, mustard seed, pickling spice, peppercorns, turmeric.

Fresh herbs/spices (optional) jalapeno or habanero peppers, dill, garlic, oregano, shallot, horseradish.

1. Wash and chop your vegetables.

2. Select flavorings. Mix and match fresh or dried herbs and spices. Add up to 2 tablespoons per jar.

3. Pack the vegetables snugly into washed pint-sized canning jars or similar-sized glass or heatproof plastic containers with lids.

4. Make either a sweet or sour brine. Start with vinegar and water. For a sour brine add 3 Tbsp. canning/pickling salt and 2 Tbsp. sugar. For a sweet brine add 2 Tbsp. canning/pickling salt and 1 ½ cups sugar. Bring all the ingredients to a boil and let boil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat. This recipe yield 6 to 7 pints jars.

5. Carefully fill the jars with brine to within 1/2 inch of the top of the rim. Place the lids on the jars and refrigerate. Allow the flavor to develop for one to two days before serving.

Source: University of Maine Cooperative Extension

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Leaves of three? Keep poison ivy out of the home landscape

By retired Horticulture Educator Richard Hentschel

Experienced gardeners know where poison ivy is likely to be in the home landscape and newer gardeners will likely learn fast. Without knowing poison ivy is in the yard, it is all too easy to get the oils on your hands and clothing while clearing beds of otherwise harmless weeds says Richard Hentschel, University of Illinois Extension Horticulture educator.

Until you can easily identify poison ivy, the adage of ‘leaves of three let it be’ are pretty good words to live by.

All parts of poison ivy have oil that gives us dermatitis; watery blisters are common. You can get poison ivy even in the winter when plants and vines are dormant. Thoroughly wash your skin with soap and water immediately after encountering the plant.

Photo by Richard Hentschel. In the fall, poison ivy turns an attractive red and orange as it vines up trees.

In the home landscape, it is best to remove poison ivy while it is small and before it begins to vine. Never burn poison ivy as the oils will be in the smoke. Young seedlings will die if pulled out and left to dry, handling them as little as possible.

Use a digger of your choice, so you do not come in contact with the plants and consider wearing an unlined rubber glove.

As a small seedling, poison ivy looks like many other immature weeds, not quickly recognizable. As it continues to grow, poison ivy will grow its characteristic three leaflets comprising a compound leaf and take on vining growth habit. As a vine, it can easily hide in a bed of ground covers, reaching out into the lawn from the edge of the woods, climbing up the house wall with the Boston ivy or other ornamental vines. Gardeners will also find it while pruning their shrubs.

Poison ivy has outstanding reds and oranges for fall color and is quite attractive. Look, but don’t touch.

With slightly bigger plants, gardeners could use a glyphosate pesticide product, but apply it carefully around valuable ornamentals.

When the poison ivy vine runs into a tree trunk, the vine develops brown aerial roots that can cling to the bark. Vines growing up the tree can be as small as a quarter of an inch to over 3 inches in diameter for a larger mature vine. In this third form and its mature stage as a tree-climbing vine poison ivy leaves can be 2 feet in size. This is where the vine begins to flower and fruit annually. Its berries are eaten by wildlife and later deposited along fence rows, beneath deciduous and evergreen tree canopies, and shrub borders.

If you find yourself with a tree vine, the best control option is to carefully cut through the vine at the soil line. Leave the vine to dry in the tree.

For more information about managing poison ivy or other horticulture topics, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Taking time to select plants for difficult growing conditions helps long-term success

By Horticulture Educator Nancy Kreith

Difficult growing conditions leave gardeners stumped when selecting plants. These planting areas may include alkaline soils, dry shade, over a septic tank, a large local deer population, and more.

Always consider the existing site conditions when selecting new plants for the garden. Look at soil conditions, sun exposure, and drainage. Develop a maintenance plan for weeding and watering while establishing plants for the first two years.

Photo by Nancy Kreith. For soils that are alkaline, which is common in northern Illinois, aim for plants that are tolerant of a higher pH level and that will help combat nutrient deficiencies. Clemantis and purple poppy mallow are thriving in this narrow walkway.

Taking the time to choose plants that suit your unique growing situations can be intimidating, but your work at the start of the project will be rewarded with long-term success. No one likes having to constantly replant an area.

This plant list of trees, shrubs, grasses, and forbs for challenging site conditions to help ease time and efforts for home gardeners.

Alkaline soils: For soils that are alkaline, which is common in northern Illinois, aim for plants that are tolerant of a higher pH level and that will help combat nutrient deficiencies. Illinois native plant options include ironwood, chokecherry, bur oak, viburnum, yarrow, purple coneflower, and summer phlox. Other options include smokebush, panicle hydrangea, astilbe, clematis, coral bells, hosta, creeping phlox, and salvia.

Compacted soil: In urban areas, construction practices have compacted the soil and exposed clay soil from sub-base layers, but there are plants tolerant of these soils. Native plant options include black chokeberry, red osier dogwood, columbine, New England aster, blue false indigo, purple coneflower, rattlesnake master, wild geranium, blazing star, bergamot, wild quinine, gray headed coneflower, black-eyed Susan, little bluestem, golden alexander. Another option is stonecrop.

Septic tanks: Home gardeners should limit their use of water and avoid disturbing soil over septic tanks so chose low-maintenance plants with drought tolerance. Native plant options include butterfly weed, sideoats grama, purple coneflower, prairie smoke, blazing star, wild bergamot, beardtongue, little bluestem and prairie dropseed. Other options are fescue and sedum.

Deer: Deer populations are difficult to deal with and even tolerant plants get eaten from time to time. Protect plants with physical barriers after their initial installation. Deer will not eat many nonnative plants such as ageratum, wax begonia, heliotrope, sweet alyssum, daffodil, geranium, blue salvia, dusty miller, and lamb’s ear. Native options are purple coneflower and nannyberry viburnum.

For more information about plant selection, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Native prairie grasses create distinct, breezy aesthetic in home landscape

By Horticulture Educator Ryan Pankau

Download the factsheet

Nothing beats the light and airy look of tall, distinctive grasses in a landscape arrangement. The fluffy seedheads and slender, attractive stems practically dance in the wind on breezy days, adding texture as well as a structural element to any landscape bed.

For many years, there was a trend toward non-native grasses. However, there is a growing interest in native prairie grasses, given their inherent adaptability to our climate and their ecological value.

Photo by Ryan Pankau. Little bluestem is a native prairie grass with beauty in all four seasons, including excellent fall color.

Big Bluestem, Andropogon gerardii, is one of his favorites for its wonderful height, sometimes reaching up to 8 feet including the seedheads. It’s known for attractive, blue-green foliage and steams that fade to reddish-bronze in fall. Interesting seed heads develop late in the growing season and persist into winter.

Big bluestem fits well in the rear of a border planting or as a backdrop for other, shorter natives. It also works nicely in mass plantings or as a visual screen when planted in groups. It can be maintained as somewhat of a specimen when mixed into native plantings, although it does tend to slowly spread by rhizomes over time. Spread can be limited by other competing prairie plants or by periodic removal of spreading shoots.

Switchgrass, Panicum virgatum, is another very tall native grass used for both its ornamental appeal and its tough adaptability to a wide range of soil conditions. However, one issue with switchgrass is its innate ability to spread, either from rhizomes or by seed. For this reason, it’s probably better used in mass plantings or as a solid border to create visual screening. It works well in problem areas such as wet spots, areas with erosion or locations with some partial shade.

While switchgrass can have a really nice fall color, I think its seedheads provide the most interest. As seedheads mature and expand late in the growing season, they created a cloud-like effect with their open and airy form.

Little bluestem, Schizachyrium scoparium, packs a ton of beauty into shorter stems and fluffier seedheads. Foliage and stems emerge with a deep blue-green color that matures to lighter green with reddish accents at stem nodes. In late summer, flowers begin to emerge as beautiful purplish-red structures that mature into fluffy tufts. Perhaps the plant’s greatest beauty lies in its wonderful fall color creating a spectacular reddish-purple color. Little bluestem works well as a more vertical component that is not overly tall at only 2 to 4 feet by the season’s end. It works well in a great variety of garden uses, from mass plantings to small pollinator pockets.

In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful and colorful of our native grasses, and it behaves well as it is slow to spread retaining a clump-like habit.

Another smaller native grass that works well in the landscape is prairie dropseed, Sporobolus heterolepis. While it does have interesting seed heads and nice fall color, this plant has most value in its fine-textured foliage during the growing season and much smaller size at around 2 feet in height.

This is one of my favorite plants to add along a sidewalk or at the front edge of a native garden. It creates a welcoming and inviting view with its fine-textured, hair-like foliage that wonderfully frames the planting.

It’s a highly underused landscape plant that deserves more attention given its overall low maintenance requirements and well-behaved habit.

For more information about plant selection, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Plant new fruit, vegetable, and flower varieties with confidence with 2022 All-America Selection Winners

By Horticulture Educator Bruce Black

Another Illinois winter has gone with the promise of spring to soon arrive. Garden catalogs have been arriving for months allowing gardeners to look forward to spring 2022 - the fresh air, energic wildlife, and the gardening. While many have already bought seeds and started to sow them, what if you’re just now thumbing through seed and plant catalogs looking for inspiration, warmth, and a new challenge?

Photo credit All-America Selections. All-America Selections, AAS, is a non-profit organization that trials and awards new plants varieties each year. The National Flower Winner is the sunflower variety Concert Bell F1. This sturdy and durable variety has multiple clusters of 10 to 12 annual flowers that are great in the landscape or for cut flowers.

Start by keeping good garden records from previous years to aid in the planning for the new spring. I always like to test a new plant or six, that is suited for USDA hardiness zone 5, which can sometimes be a challenge without a plan or a map.

After mapping out your existing perennials, think about what new plants could be added to your landscape and their space requirements. After covering this topic now for seven years, my starting place is the All-America Selections.

All-America Selections, AAS, is a non-profit organization that releases several trialed plants each year as AAS Winners. AAS tests new varieties every year at their private and public trial sites located around the United States and Canada. Currently, there are four trial locations in Illinois – three northern, and one central.

Independent judges, who are professional horticulturists in geographically diverse areas, evaluate trial entries against comparison plants. The results and observations are compiled, and winners are chosen. For the best plants suited to Illinois, look for Great Lakes winners or National winners on the AAS winners lists.

This year, there are 12 AAS Winners, 10 of which are suited for Illinois – six vegetables, one fruit, and three flowers.

National Vegetable Winners

Eggplant Icicle F1, Solanum melongena var. Icicle F1: This is a white eggplant with fewer spines than other eggplants. The larger cylindrical fruits have fewer seeds. At 48 inches tall, it requires staking. It has 55 days to harvest from transplant. The plant spreads 28 inches.

Lettuce Bauer, Lactuca sativa variety Bauer: Ideal for in-ground, containers, or raised beds. Uniform, compact, dense heads of dark green leaves. 58 days to harvest from seed and 34 days from transplant. Harvest at baby or full-sized leaves for enjoyment. An excellent candidate for controlled environments.

Pepper Buffy F1, Capsicum frutescens variety Buffy F1: Good yielding, faster maturing, hot pepper with thick walls and 500,000 Scoville units. Upright, 28-inch plants with heat tolerance and ornamental value. It has 70 days to harvest from transplant.

Pepper Dragonfly F1, Capsicum annuum variety Dragonfly F1: Purple, four-lobed, sweet bell peppers with thick walls. The purple color changes to red if it is left on the vine too long. Plant height is 24 inches to 36 inches. Each plant produces 40 peppers. It has 75 days to harvest from transplant.

Tomato Purple Zebra F1, Solanum lycopersicum var. Purple Zebra F1: A sweet-leaning acidic tomato with disease resistance. It has green stripes on dark red thinner-skinned fruits. It has 80 to 85 days to harvest from transplant. Its upright growth habit requires staking. Each plant produces 150 to 200 tomatoes.

Regional (Heartland) Vegetable Winner

Tomato Pink Delicious, Solanum lycopersicum variety Pink Delicious: A pink, early maturing, higher yielding, and beefsteak uniform tomato. Good disease resistance. Higher Brix (sugar) for a pink tomato. A 6-foot-tall upright climber with a 3-foot spread. It has 84 days to harvest from transplant.

Regional (Great Lakes) Vegetable Winner

Watermelon Century Star F1, Citrullus lanatus variety Century Star F1: A 10-pound, round, seedless, spotted variety. Crisp melon with sweet flesh. Vines spread 9 feet to 11 feet. Bears two to three fruits per plant. It has 65 days to harvest from transplant and 75 days from seed.

Gold Medal Winners

Begonia Viking™ Explorer Rose on Green F1, Begonia x hybrid variety Viking™ Explorer Rose on Green F1:  An annual, trailing begonia with rose-colored flowers that is excellent for hanging baskets and containers. Heat, weather, and disease tolerant. Pollinator friendly and 50 days to flower from transplant.

Petunia Bee’s Knees, Petunia x hybrid variety Bee’s Knees: This is the first petunia Gold Medal winner in 72 years. It has lush yellow, non-fading flowers on green leaves and needs little maintenance with a mounding and trailing habit. It is an annual flower that is heat and rain tolerant and pollinator friendly.

National Flower Winner

Sunflower Concert Bell F1, Helianthus annuus L variety Concert Bell F1: Sturdy and durable, Concert Bell F1 has multiple clusters of 10 to 12 annual flowers. It is a uniform height at 5 feet to 6 feet. It is earlier to flower than other sunflowers. Direct seed for a great landscape attraction or for cut flowers.

Looking for something else to fill in your landscape and gardens? The All-America Selections website, all-americaselections.org, contains a list of all past vegetables and flowers winners since its founding in 1933.

For more information about gardening, check out the Illinois Extension Horticulture website at extension.illinois.edu/global/horticulture or their YouTube channel at go.illinois.edu/UniversityOfIllinoisExtensionHorticulture.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Pelleted seed gives gardeners a sown in advantage

By Horticulture Educator Mary Fischer

Photo by Mary Fischer. Pelleted seed are often sold in windowed seed packets.

Have you noticed the windowed packets of seeds at garden centers with brightly colored “seeds”? These pelleted seeds are small or irregular seed that have a specialized inert coating applied to improve planting, spacing, and germination. Often the coating, which increases the weight and size of the seed, is colored which aids in planting several varieties of seed in one tray, a row in a garden, or a field.

While pelleted seed was originally developed for commercial production with a mechanical seeder. Then, seed companies began producing pelleted seed for vegetables and flowers and seeds are now available at local garden centers and big-box stores.

History

Pelleted seed has been used intermittently since WWI. The improved pelleted seed was introduced for cereal seeds in the 1930s by a British seed company, Germains. In the 1940s, the U.S. used several types of pelleted seed in reforestation studies. The 1960s saw large-scale use of pelletized seed by commercial growers primarily for its ease of use with mechanical planters and new seed coating technologies. In the 1970s, California banned the use of short-handled hoes, increasing the use of pelleted or coated seeds.

Benefits of Pelleted Seed

Today, pelleted seed has many positive benefits for commercial productions and home gardeners. The coating protects seed from birds, rodents, and a wide range of environmental conditions that often lead to replanting. It reduces loss from needing to thin plants.

Precise spacing requires less seed, and since the seed is coated and visible, less seed will be used saving gardeners money.

Photo by Mary Fischer. The brightly colored coating on pelleted seed makes it easier to keep track of which varieties you are planting when starting seeds.

For large-scale producers, it is easier for specific applications like aerial dropping or mechanical seeders. There are nutrient benefits with increased oxygen availability. The coating allows for pre-inoculation of legume seeds. Since chemicals are applied to the seed and not the whole field, application is safer and there is a lower cost of agricultural chemicals.

One obstacle to widespread adoption of pelleted seed has been the ability of the coating to split open once it is hydrated allowing oxygenated moisture to reach the seed. New levels of coating densities for commercial growers has overcome that issue.

Meghan Shinn has two precautions when using pelleted seed in a March 1, 2020 article from Horticulture Magazine. First, the growing medium needs to remain consistently moist, but not soggy, after the seed is sown. Secondly, all the pelleted seed must be used in the season it is purchased. This should not be a problem with most home gardeners as seed packets contain smaller amounts of seed.

How to Use Pelleted Seed

Pelleted seed is very easy to use. The colored coating allows a home gardener to see the seed as it is planted, the seed spacing, and where it is planted before covering with soil. If a home gardener is starting seed in a tray for transplant later, pelleted seed makes it easier to identify the different types of seed as it is planted.

How to Make Seed Tape

Another method of planting pelleted seed is to make your own seed tape. This is quite easy to do using single-ply toilet paper and glue.

1. Simply tear off a length of toilet paper to fit the garden plot. Fold it in half lengthwise and cut into two pieces. Fold each length in half longways and open.

2. Following the recommended spacing on the seed packet, place small dots of glue at the appropriate distance to one side of the fold, then add a seed.

3. Once the entire length has been planted, fold the other side over the seed side.

4. This tape can be wrapped around an empty paper towel roll and labeled for later use.

5. When ready to plant, prepare the garden bed, lay the tape on the bed, and cover it to the proper depth as directed on the seed packet.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Get growing with indoor kitchen garden

By Horticulture Educator Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle

Growing food is not limited to outdoors in the summer. With some planning, you can grow food indoors throughout the year.

Before starting an indoor kitchen garden, it is essential to think about what you want to gain by growing food indoors. You might wish to have herbs to give recipes a special touch or boost nutrition for added health benefits.

Photo Credit Bonnie Kittle, Unsplash. Herbs can be grown in a sunny windowsill all year.

Keep in mind the amount of work you want to put into your indoor garden, schedules including your daily routine and time away, and whether your plants will be only indoors or transferred to outside during nice weather.

Light Needs

The limiting factor for growing plants indoors is light. Three aspects of light must be considered when planning to grow an indoor garden – light intensity, duration, and quality.

Most plants grown for food need intense, bright light. A south-facing window is a good location for natural light exposure for plants.

Many plants are sensitive to changes in the time they are exposed to light. Light duration affects their growth, flowering, and setting fruit. Supplemental light during the short days of winter will ensure the plants get light for the required time. Plants also need times of darkness. A timer is a helpful tool to help you deliver the proper duration of light to your plants.

Light quality refers to the color of the light. In general, blue-green light is required for plants to have healthy growth. Red-orange light is necessary for flowering and fruit. Sunlight has all the colors of light.

Supplemental light varies depending on the source. Fluorescent lights give off light in the blue spectrum. Incandescent light is in the red/orange spectrum and gives off heat. It is not essential to buy expensive lights for an indoor garden but to understand how to use light resources effectively.

Water, Air, Soil and Pollination

Providing the proper amount of water is critical for an indoor garden. Check the soil for moisture to determine when to water. It is best to keep the soil profile consistently moist. Too wet or too dry can cause stress to the plant.

Good air circulation around plants helps to prevent fungus and disease problems.

Sterile potting media is a good choice for an indoor kitchen garden. Start your garden without worrying about disease or insect pests. Choose media that drains well to help plants thrive.

Wind and insects pollinate food plants outdoors but are lacking in indoor spaces. Some plants such as tomatoes can be pollinated by shaking them to mimic the wind, while others such as strawberries need to have the pollen transferred by hand to mimic insects.

Indoor herb options:

oregano

Thyme

Lemongrass

Chives

Mint

The first four thrive in bright light, but do not tolerate overwatering. Only water when the top of the soil is dry. Growth can be slow during the winter, so harvest leaves sparingly until new leaves form. Mint can tolerate less light and more water. Keep some on hand to add to teas or desserts.

Indoor fruit and vegetable options:

Lettuce

Microgreens

Tomatoes

Citrus trees

Alpine strawberries

A variety of lettuce can be successfully grown indoors. Scatter seeds evenly across moist soil media and lightly cover. Lettuces thrive in cooler temperatures and need less light than other edible plants. Microgreens are packed with nutrition. These delicate plants are best grown indoors where environmental conditions can be controlled.

Patio varieties of tomatoes and citrus trees can be grown in pots with bright light and moist soil. Keep in mind that these plants will need some help with pollination for fruit to form.

Alpine strawberries can grow well in a bright, cool space out of direct light. For fruit, hand pollination is necessary.

There are so many options for growing an indoor kitchen garden. Try one or more to have fresh, nutrient-filled food all year long.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

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Flavor your meals with low-maintenance homegrown herbs

By Horticulture Educator Jennifer Fishburn

Culinary herbs are a favorite of many gardeners. They are easy to grow as they require little care, have few insect and disease problems, and generally prefer moderate fertility levels. In addition, they add fragrance and beauty to the garden. Many herbs such as lavender, sage, and purple basil, are very ornamental and combine nicely in flower or vegetable gardens.

Now is the time to plan what herbs you will plant this spring. First consider what herbs you use in food dishes, then consider which herb plants will add texture, color, and fragrance to your garden.

Photo by Jennifer Fishburn. Many herbs such as lavender, sage, and purple basil, are very ornamental and combine nicely in flower or vegetable gardens.

Seeds and plants can be mail ordered and most can be purchased locally. Herbs such as dill, cilantro, and basil are easy to grow from seed. Lavender, rosemary, sage, and thyme are easily grown from purchased plants.

Mint and oregano are easy to divide, so ask a fellow gardener for a start of their plant.

Herb care

Throughout the growing season, herbs do need some attention including weeding, watering, and harvesting. Weeding takes persistence. If planted in a garden, most established herb plants don’t need additional watering. However, when rainfall is less than 1 inch per week, additional moisture may be needed. The key is to avoid overwatering as herb plants do not like wet feet.

Harvesting Herbs

Harvesting of herbs can be done throughout the growing season. Throughout the summer, annual herbs grown for their leaves such as basil, summer savory, and sweet marjoram, should be cut back leaving approximately 6 inches of stem and leaves. Cut back the stem to just above a leaf or pair of leaves. Most annual leafy herbs don’t survive frost or freezing. So, if frost is predicted, remove as much of the plant as you desire for preserving.

Dill and cilantro are annual herbs grown for both leaves and seeds. For a continual supply of fresh leaves, reseed every two weeks. If growing for seeds allow the plant to mature before harvesting. Collect seed heads as they turn a light brown. Place seed heads upside down in a paper bag. Allow to dry for about two weeks and shake seeds off stems before removing stems from the bag.

Prune leafy perennial herbs such as sage, rosemary, thyme, and oregano by removing one-third of the top growth at a time. Avoid heavy prunings of perennial herbs after the beginning of September. In the fall, plants that will overwinter, need to start shutting down. Heavy pruning will promote new growth which keeps a plant actively growing.

Herbs are best used fresh, however, most can be dried or frozen for later use. Before preserving herbs, wash them to remove dirt and other particles.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

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Scale up your garden’s health with fish emulsion fertilizer

By Horticulture Educator Christopher Enroth

Over the years, there has been a growing demand for organic-based fertilizers to use in the garden and landscaping. There are of course ways to manufacture these organic fertilizers, but what if we could use a byproduct of the manufacture of a different product? It is an efficient use of our natural resources and perhaps even creates a sustainable source.

Byproduct fertlizer

This has given rise to many different types of organic fertilizers appearing on the market that are the “leftovers” of some other type of industry.

For instance, corn gluten meal is an organic fertilizer that is a byproduct of the corn milling industry. Milorganite is a hybridized trade name of an organic fertilizer. “Mil” means Milwaukee, “orga” shortened from organic, and “nite” for nitrogen. Though I was originally taught “nite” came from the term “night soil” which is human waste. Milorganite fertilizer is made of biosolids from treated sewer sludge from the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District.

What is Fish Emulsion Fertlizer?

And then there is fish emulsion. Fish emulsion is the leftover liquid from the fish meal and fish oil industry.

To get a picture of fish emulsion think back to or look up the Saturday Night Live video of Dan Aykroyd hawking his Super Bass-o-Matic ‘76. With the help of a blender, some water, and a dead fish, Aykroyd made a fish emulsion.

Of course, some other items go into processing fish emulsion, like straining out solid pieces and adjusting the pH so the product doesn’t spoil in the container, but it is for the most part liquified fish.

What the Research Says

There are many unverified claims on the magic of fish emulsion. Some will say to soak seeds in this product for better germination rates. Initial studies show this not to be true. Others note to use this as a foliar spray for plants to absorb nutrients directly into their leaf tissue for big yields. Again, studies of sweet peppers show no difference in yield when using fish emulsion foliar sprays.

Fish Emulsion is an Effective Fertlizer

Fish emulsion has been shown to be effective as a fertilizer. While nutrient ratios may vary, a typical fish emulsion may have nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) rates of 2-4-1 and the micronutrients calcium, magnesium, sulfur, chlorine, and sodium.

A possible benefit of fish emulsion, and many of the organic-based fertilizers, is that they offer protein to feed our soil microorganisms, which may help to build a more robust soil food web resulting in improved plant health for the long term.

Then, there is the issue of the odor.

A liquid fish emulsion smells, well like blended up fish. I now avoid using it on houseplants, after applying it once and booting the plants outside after a day of playing the game ‘Find the Smell!’

Outdoors the odor is of little consequence. However, the raccoons took a very keen interest in why I was hiding dead fish in my outside containers and proceeded to dig in each pot on my patio. While this is not established research, over time several people have called the Illinois Extension office about raccoons digging in pots. After investigation, there does seem to be a trend of fish emulsion fertilizer use and mischievous raccoons.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

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Early blooming spring ephemerals flowers welcome warmer weather

By Horticulture Educator Gemini Bhalsod

Spring ephemeral flowers are nature’s gems after winter. These short-lived beauties are wildflowers that grow in woodlands in the early spring before the leaves on deciduous trees are open. They are called spring ephemerals because they have a relatively short blooming time.

Photo by Nancy Kreith. Spring ephemerals are wildflowers that grow in woodlands in the early spring before the leaves on deciduous trees are open. They are called spring ephemerals because they have a relatively short blooming time. Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis, blooms are very fleeting. The rhizomes have an orange-red color when cut.

These seasonal plants grow, flower, and set seed relatively quickly. They are usually dormant by mid-summer when the leaves die back again. In your garden one moment and gone another.

Spring ephemerals complete most of their life cycle in the early spring before the trees and understory shrubs leaf out and take over most of the available light. These plants start growing roots in the fall and winter, to fully emerge above ground in the spring. This time of year is a tough time to be a growing plant – soil temperatures are low, the weather is unpredictable, and there are just a few pollinators foraging.

As temperatures increase and sunlight becomes less available in the late spring and summer, growth slows down, nutrients are stored underground, and the plants begin to die back.

There is some conflicting information and opinions out there as to whether spring ephemerals are just a special type of spring flower or if they are a spring bulb. One major difference, with a few exceptions, is that ephemeral foliage dies back in the early summer while the foliage of spring bulbs lasts longer.

How to Grow Spring Ephemerals

With the right location, gardeners can grow spring ephemerals in their yards. Since a lot of spring ephemerals can be slow to grow and spread, plant them in groups to have a sense of fullness.

Plant in high organic matter areas that mimic a woodland; no fertilizer is needed. Water only during establishment or in times of drought. Leaf die back is normal.

Many nurseries sell spring ephemerals these days due to their increased popularity. Planting seeds can be a less expensive, but slower approach and you’ll have to break the dormancy of the seed before it grows. Nurseries sell potted plants in the spring and fall. If it’s a little later in the spring, the above ground portion of the plant might look yellow, but the root mass is still alive.

Photo by Gemini Bhalsod. Spring ephemerals are wildflowers that grow in woodlands in the early spring before the leaves on deciduous trees are open. They are called spring ephemerals because they have a relatively short blooming time. Dutchman’s Breeches, Dicentra cucullaria, flowers in April and gets its common name because the blossoms resemble pants, or ‘breeches.’

Never collect plants in the wild as it is illegal, and can really disrupt natural habitat.

Plants bought online that are mailed, they will likely be dormant with bare roots. There will be no top growth and they are usually packed in moist packing material. Plant them right away.

Skunk Cabbage, Symplocarpus foetidus, is one of the earliest spring ephemerals that emerges in February. There are tiny yellow flowers held on a spadix inside of a purple flower. The plant attracts carrion flies as pollinators. After it flowers, large smooth cabbage-like leaves develop.

Dutchman’s Breeches, Dicentra cucullaria, is a distinct plant that flowers in April. It gets its common name because the individual blossoms resemble pants, or ‘breeches.’ Leaflets are feathery and fern-like and it is pollinated by bees.

Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum, has very distinctive flower and seeds. The outside of the flower could be green, or purple striped. After flowering in June, the flower turns into a cluster of green berries which are persistent until they ripen into a bright red in early fall for birds to eat.

Virginia Bluebells, Mertensia virginica, appear in March. These plants are known for spreading into masses of flowers. Clusters of bell-shaped purplish flowers stand over the foliage and the plant quickly dies back after blooming.

Mayapples, Podophyllum peltatum, grow in large dense colonies that spread through rhizomes. The large bowl-shaped white flower grows under the umbrella shaped, glossy leaves. It grows in part-to-full shade and blooms from April to May. They tolerate drier soil conditions and short periods of drought, especially when flowering is complete.

Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis, blooms are very fleeting, sometimes lasting only a few days. It has a vibrant white flower with green-lobed leaf at the base. The rhizomes have an orange-red color when cut. Leaves can stick around throughout the season.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Give caterpillars a chance with soft landings under trees

By Horticulture Educator Kelly Allsup

Trees are natural caretakers – their limbs provide shade and shelter, their seeds and leaves provide food, their roots filter water. Insect scientists have another skill to add to the list – a haven for caterpillars. Entomologists are asking gardeners, homeowners, and landscapers to stop mowing and instead add permanent plantings under tree canopies to help moths and butterfly caterpillars survive.

Photo by Layne Knoche. Planting grasses beneath tree canopies that do not need to be mowed, such as this fescue at the Red Oak Rain Garden in Urbana, ensures that the caterpillars of moths and butterflies survive to adulthood.

Biologist, pollinator conservationist, and award-winning author Heather Holm describes these plantings as soft landings for insects. Once the caterpillar of a moth or butterfly eats its fill of tree leaves, most of the time it drops to the ground to pupate. It may burrow into leaf litter or the ground.

However, most people leave grass under trees, which has to be mowed. This creates an ecological trap preventing butterflies and moths from reaching adulthood.

A soft landing is critical under certain trees such as oak, willow, cherry, pines, and poplars. These keystone species trees feed a lot of species of butterfly and moth caterpillars. According to famed entomologist and author Doug Tallamy, oak trees support 534 species of lepidoptera, the insect order containing butterflies and moths, and black cherry supports 456 species. One of Illinois’ most well-known moths, the Polyphemus moth, feeds on oak and black cherry trees.

Erin Garrett, Energy and Environmental Stewardship Extension educator, asks homeowners to picture the habitat around one of their trees.

“Is the lawn under that tree a safe space to be? No, it isn’t,” Garrett says. “With leaves raked up or mowed, and lawn grass mowed weekly, those caterpillars do not have a safe space to develop.”

These soft landings do more than prevent lawnmowers from running over pupating butterflies and moths, they also provide habitat for other beneficial insects such as bumblebees, fireflies, lacewings, and beetles.

To create a soft landing, first, figure out if your tree’s roots are sensitive to disturbance. We would never want to harm roots on a tree. Severing even one major root can cause the loss of 15% to 25% of the root system according to the International Society of Arboriculture. Those with sensitive trees should apply properly mulched rings.

If a soft landing is appropriate, smother grass with wet newspaper or mulch. Add compost 2 inches deep compost starting 18 inches from the trunk and ending at the dripline, or the overhead canopy, of the tree.

Use small plugs of groundcovers or seed mixed with small spring-flowering bulbs such as grape hyacinth, crocus, winter aconite, snow drops, or Siberian squill.

Although most bulbs thrive in full sun, it is a myth that you cannot grow spring-flowering bulbs in shady areas because bulbs have bloomed before trees fully leaf out.

Plants for dry shaded areas

These plants, which are available in flats as small plugs, are appropriate as a soft landing ground cover in dry shade.

Lamium has silver variegated leaves with showy purple, pink or white flowers that bloom from May to July. It grows 6 to 9 inches tall and has a 2- to 3-foot spread. When planting, it is best to space plugs 18- to 24 inches apart. This plant is resistant to deer munching.

Pachysandra is an evergreen of whorled glossy leaves that blooms white in April. This plant grows 6 to 12 inches high and spreads 12 inches. Leave plugs 12 inches apart. It will need to be thinned once it is well established to prevent disease. It is resistant to rabbit and deer.

Epimedium has compound heart-shaped leaves on wiry stems that turn red in the fall. It boasts attractive flowers of red or yellow in May. It grows 12- to 14 inches tall and spreads about 18 inches. It can be slow growing but is resistant to rabbit and deer.

Blue Sedge spreads quickly and combats weeds. The bluish-greenish foliage forms a nice mound and blooms mid-June to mid-July. This ground cover furthers contributing to the biodiversity by hosting skipper butterfly caterpillars and providing seed for birds.

Plants for wet shaded areas

Wild ginger is a native ground cover with a kidney shaped leaf that blooms in April at the base of the plant. When looking, you will find a purple cup-shaped flower that is usually covered by the foliage. It grows 6- to 12 inches tall and spreads 12 to 18 inches. It is resistant to deer.

Sweet Woodruff has a delicate leaf but is a mat-forming ground cover that blooms white in late spring. It grows 8 to 12 inches tall and spreads 12 to 18 inches. It has fragrant flowers and foliage that smells like fresh-cut hay when crushed. It can be planted under black walnut trees.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Grow curly willows for an artistic twist in the landscape, winter flower arrangements

By Horticulture Educator Christina Lueking

Willow trees are most well known for their long, draping branches that give them a refined and graceful appearance. That is unless it is a corkscrew willow.

The unique branching and twisting features of the Salix genus curly willow not only adds visual interest to the winter landscape but it can also be harvested and used for unique decorative arrangements says University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator Christina Lueking.

Photo by David J. Stang. The unique branching and twisting features of the Salix genus curly willow not only adds visual interest to the winter landscape but it can also be harvested and used for unique decorative arrangements

Curly willow has beautifully curled branches that have led to some crazy common names such as corkscrew willow, twisted willow, and snake willow.

Site Selection

Woody varieties generally prefer fertile, well-drained soil and full sun throughout the day. However, willows are a perfect fit for filter strips between annual crops or wet areas with their mature branches that are upright with a few sweeping younger branches that droop until they become more mature. These trees are easily propagated and can have a long lifespan as a sculptural element in the landscape or a garden bed.

The fall leaves turn a golden yellow color before dropping to show off the brilliantly colored burgundy or golden stems. Prune these stems to 3-foot-long sections and use the results in winter decorations.

Decorative Qualities

These sturdy bundles can be molded into round wreaths, heart-shaped designs, or even free flowing sculptures in vases with white lights. Have fun enhancing your décor or arrangements with this unique willow.

Harvest of branches can range from a few feet on shrubs to several feet on mature trees. Branches can be used as a fresh or dry product in floral arrangements. Remember to mold stems while they are pliable and bundle them with wire before they dry. It is harder to shape stems if they are completely dried.

Pests and Disease

Pests that like to feed on the leaves of the willow are aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs, lace bugs, caterpillars, willow leaf beetles. The willow borer drills into the trunks and creates tunnels and the adults emerge to feed on the tissue of the branches.

Scout willows to spot infestations that can be controlled by pruning the heavily infested areas and disposing of the cuttings. The areas can then be sprayed with neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Willow trees do have a couple of disease issues including crown gall and willow scab. But with scouting and mulching you can be proactive in controlling these issues.

For more information on tree care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Magnolia blooms, beetles are nature’s spring flower odd couple

By Horticulture Educator Ryan Pankau

Every spring, magnolia trees across the Midwestern landscape offer some of the most spectacular flowering displays of any woody plant. These beautiful ornamental trees, native to Asia, are some of the first landscape plants in our area to deliver such a showy display; truly one of the most endorsing signs that spring is finally here.

Most of Illinois’ native, deciduous trees are primarily wind-pollinated and many bloom even earlier than magnolias, although often unnoticed by many of us says University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator Ryan Pankau. Their strategy is to produce a lot of pollen in the hopes that wind dispersion will spread their genes far and wide. Wind pollinated species do not need a showy display to attract pollinating animals or human attention. They typically lack aroma and nectar which, along with color, are the primary means plants use to attract pollinators to their flowers.

Since most of our native trees, like oak, ash, and maple, evolved flowers for wind pollination, they are largely unnoticed during flowering.

Photo by Ryan Pankau. Saucer magnolia, Magnolia x soulangeana, in full bloom, with an abundance of white to pinkish, showy flowers.

Their smaller, low-key flowers are not designed to be colorful or attractive, but rather to allow tons of pollen to freely float away on the wind. Their pollen producing structures, called anthers, are often loosely attached, and hang down to dangle in the wind.

Magnolias evolved a different strategy for pollination. Their flowers are quite showy, produce nectar, and have fragrance, all in the effort to attract insects. They invest more energy in these insect-attracting traits than pollen production, generating much less pollen per flower than their wind-pollinated cousins.

The interesting twist with magnolias is that their genus Magnoliais quite ancient, evolving very early in the plant family tree, earlier than our native flowering trees. They are considered to be among the oldest of the flowering plants.

At the time of their evolution, many common pollinators we think of today, such as bees, butterflies, and moths had not evolved yet. As a result, magnolias developed flowers for pollination by beetles and flies, which were the primary insect pollinators 100 million years ago.

Magnolia flowers are relatively simple when compared to other, more specialized flowers. Pollen structures are arranged so that insects searching for a nectar reward will haphazardly bump into them and subsequently spread pollen as they amble from flower to flower.

Flightless beetles were the primary constituents of magnolia flowers millions of years ago as they evolved and are often considered “dumb pollinators.” These poor insects get a bad rap because they cannot perform more advanced behaviors of butterflies and other pollinators that evolved later as the plant-pollinator relationship became more complex.  Butterflies and other “smarter” pollinators can perform advanced tasks, such as extraordinary feats of flower manipulation, to harvest pollen.

The lowly beetle, which receives a ton of credit for the early development of magnolia flowers, is left to dumbly wander from flower to flower. The process of co-evolution between flowering plants and insects is considered one of the most intricate multi-species evolutionary processes on earth.  When plants evolved flowers, it was a game-changer for plant reproduction. So, there is no reason to totally discount beetles as “dumb” since magnolia flowers would not be possible without these grunts of the pollinator world.

Consequently, magnolias evolved to accommodate their “less educated” pollinators with some specially tailored adaptations. Beetle mouthparts are made primarily for chewing, not pollen collection from delicate flower parts. Thus, other plant parts are often consumed in the process of harvesting pollen or nectar from the flowers.

Magnolia flowers have leathery, thick leaves along with seeds that are well protected to handle this kind of sloppiness.

Magnolias and their beetle friends are certainly an odd couple in the plant and insect world. However, their relationship has worked out wonderfully to produce some of our most exquisite flowering ornamental trees.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Slow stormwater, prevent floods with rain friendly landscaping

By Horticulture Educator Emily Swihart

Life does not exist without water. Gardens don’t grow without water. But what happens when there is too much of a good thing? Or when that good thing is mismanaged and becomes a misfortune. Or when there are prolonged periods of drought?

Photo by Emily Swihart. Adding rain gardens to streetscapes can help slow stormwater as it flows off hard surfaces.

The tale of stormwater is more frequently a story of feast or famine. Managing this resource onsite can have ripple effects downstream and throughout the watershed.

Rain gardens, bioswales, permeable pavement, are all methods to slow stormwater and prevent floods.

How Water Naturally Moves

Before Illinois was settled, it was covered in diverse ecosystems of prairies, woodlands, and wetlands. These features were connected through a vast network of river valleys and stream corridors. When rain fell, nearly all the water was absorbed into the soil where it was available for plant use or slowly percolated into groundwater.

Water that travels through the soil profile does so at a slower rate than water flowing on the surface. Water is cooled and filtered while traveling through the ground on its way to being discharged in a natural spring. The water that did exit the site as surface runoff, did so slowly, having to weave in and out of the stems of plant materials, minimizing the potential for erosion and flash flooding.

As human populations grew, large portions of natural ecosystems were converted into impermeable surfaced areas of rooftops, roads, and parking lots. Stormwater that falls on these areas cannot infiltrate into the soil, nor does it leisurely travel downslope. Stormwater on impermeable surfaces is quickly whisked away, traditionally toward a storm sewer.

Build with Green Infrastructure

In large storm events, communities with combined storm and sanitary sewer systems can become overwhelmed and flood.

Managing stormwater by channeling it can help minimize local flooding or water ponding but can compound challenges downstream. Furthermore, stormwater that is removed is no longer available during dry weather.

“Green infrastructure” systems more effectively manage stormwater and can help reduce runoff and capture rainwater onsite or close to where it falls. Many of these systems are beautiful and can easily be incorporated into existing landscapes. Multiple systems can be utilized for increased impact.

Rain gardens are a depression or shallow basin planted with native species to capture runoff from an identified source and hold it temporarily until the water slowly filters out. Most native plant species have vast root systems that penetrate deep into the soil profile and encourage water infiltration. Properly designed and installed rain gardens do not hold water for long periods of time. Rain gardens can be beautifully designed and can incorporate steppingstones for access, sculptures for aesthetic appeal, or a wide variety of plant forms for a personalized effect.

Bioswales, or stormwater swales, are similar to rain gardens. These shallow channels move water offsite. By design, the low slope and intentionally selected plant material move water slowly over the surface, increasing infiltration and filtering out contaminants prior to reaching a stream or storm sewer.

Permeable pavement or pavers allow water to move through the hardscape into a gravel layer beneath. Water can be stored in the gravel until it is evaporated back into the atmosphere, it can move through the subsurface slowly before discharging into a storm sewer or can be removed from the site through a pipe into a rain garden or bioswale.

Rain barrels and cisterns are containers that capture and store stormwater. Retained water is available for use during dry periods, typically to water landscape plants.

Incorporating green infrastructure into a home landscape is an excellent way to enhance aesthetic appeal while helping to better manage water resources. For more information, get in touch with horticulture staff at your local Illinois Extension office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Keep worms warm for winter vermicomposting

By Austin Little, horticulture educator

Vermicomposting or vermiculture, which is also known as worm farming, is the practice of keeping worms to produce worm castings or vermicompost. Vermicomposting is a natural process where worms digest organic matter and produce a waste product that is high in plant-available nutrients, beneficial microbes, and organic matter.

Gardeners have been using vermicompost to improve soil and plant health for decades which is why it’s known as black gold.

Worm farmers often prefer to keep their worm bins outdoors or in an outbuilding. This is fine during the warm season as long as they are kept out of direct sunlight. However, in the months of winter, extra measures are needed to ensure the current worm population’s survival.

Larger compost bins will maintain more of their internal heat and will give a deeper space for worms to migrate into if it gets a little too cold; smaller bins will need more protection. If you plan on keeping your bins outside, they can be insulated with blankets, burlap, straw, insulation foam, or other material as long as some gaps are left for air. If worms are kept outside and insulated, they will need less food over the winter months. The typical rate of feeding is 1lb of scraps per 1lb of worms a day, but in colder temperatures, this will be significantly reduced.

Another good option is to bring the bin indoors, where it will be much easier to maintain a steady temperature above 55°F. If worms will be stored in a garage or cold basement, keep them off cold floors. With proper safety precautions, a seed starter heating pad or space heater can be used to maintain temperatures and avoid freezing.

Easier yet, keep worm bins inside where they can be kept in a heated basement or closet.

The most recommended species of worm for vermicomposting, Red Wrigglers (Eisenia foetida), are most active at temperatures between 55°F to 77°F. While worms don’t exactly hibernate, they do slow down at cooler temperatures and will die when it gets close to freezing which is why it’s important to maintain a minimum temperature of around 55°F.

A great way to keep an eye on the temperature of the bin is to use a compost thermometer, which is great for other compost projects as well.

Worm bins should not smell bad. If they do, it usually means they are being overfed or there is too much moisture in the bin.

It’s also important to check on them every week or so to ensure they have adequate bedding and moisture. Due to the drier air conditions in winter, the bedding which typically consists of shredded paper or cardboard should be spritzed with water and moved around a bit to ensure airflow and moisture.

Whether keeping worms outdoors or bringing them in for the winter months, keeping them warm is key to having a happy worm that will produce nutrient-rich vermicompost for your garden.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Watering trees, shrubs in the fall and winter is a balancing act

By Gemini Bhalsod, horticulture educator.

After this year’s summer drought in Illinois, it is more important than ever to monitor soil moisture conditions and water trees and shrubs going into winter. Drought conditions in the late fall, along with dry air and low soil moisture, can lead to plant damage if no supplemental water is provided.

If soil is dry, homeowners should consider watering their trees and shrubs this fall and winter. Plants under water stress are more susceptible to insects and diseases. They can also experience injuries to roots or foliage.

Before watering, check the soil moisture. Monitor the moisture levels about once a week. Dig a small hole under the tree's drip line, 4 to 6 inches is enough. Feel for moisture. If the soil is dry, the tree should be watered. This little bit of consistent effort will pay off in the long run.

In particular, newly fall-planted trees, shrubs, and perennials should be monitored and watered late into the season, since they do not have as much time to develop extensive root systems as anything planted in the spring.

Pay attention to evergreens and shallow-rooted trees such as birches and maples. Some shallow-rooted trees can be identified by roots breaking the surface of the soil. Evergreens do not go dormant in the winter and are still actively respiring and lose water through their needles. Dormant trees respire at lower rates. Since soil insulates and cools down later in the year than the air temperature, roots stay warmer longer and respire at higher rates than the above-ground parts, the trunk, and branches, of deciduous trees after their leaves drop.

Only water when the temperature is above 40°F. In some places, that could be as late as the end of December. Stop supplemental watering after the ground freezes because at this point the trees cannot absorb water through the frozen soil.

To water, use a soaker hose to provide a slow stream of water. Soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. This method results in less runoff and the water is more likely to be absorbed by the root zone. If your hose is stored away and your tree or shrub is small, pour water very slowly or drill a 1/8-inch hole at the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and fill that with water.

Water at the tree’s drip line and not right against the base. To conserve water, start with newly planted trees and shrubs weekly and then large and established trees once a month if it is a dry period.

Avoid fertilizer, which stimulates late-season growth, and instead, consider applying mulch. Mulch can help conserve moisture over the winter months. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches away from the base of the tree all the way to the drip line in a doughnut shape around the trunk, leaving 2-to 4 inches of space in between. As always, planting hardy species or cultivars with deep roots is best since they are more likely to be able to survive temperature fluctuations and prolonged periods of cold.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

DIY bottle terrariums make great holiday gift

By Bruce J. Black, horticulture educator

Winter is that time of year where gardeners rest and plan for spring. But with the holidays, why not make loved ones plant gifts?

Impossible bottles, or bottles with an object inside that doesn’t seem like it can fit through the bottle’s mouth, have been things of wonder throughout history with ships or decks of cards being built inside bottles. Bottle terrariums are similar feats of wonder using plants. Terrariums are either tightly closed or open transparent containers with plants inside. Credited for inventing terrariums, Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward used hermetically sealed glass containers with soil inside to better observe the change of the chrysalis of sphinx moths.

Bottle terrariums are a creative way to use plants. Recycling old bottles and turning them into works of art is fun and easy.

When designing a bottle terrarium there are a few questions to think about first. Will it be an open or closed terrarium? What type of container is wanted? What is the theme? What plants –tall or small –will be used? Are there any additional decorations?

Closed terrariums will act like a greenhouse and be a mini-ecosystem. Bottle terrariums with caps, corks, or tightly fitting lids will trap the moisture inside where it will cycle. Open containers are more of a display allowing for larger and taller plants.

Photo by Bruce J. Black

Any transparent container can be used as a terrarium. Glass and plastic are the two most common mediums. Besides bottles, commonly used items are fish bowls, fish tanks, jugs, jars, or light bulbs.

The best part is coming up with a theme. Developing a theme based on an event, season, movie, or genre can help to tell a story and make your terrarium unique.

To build a terrarium, first, start off with a drainage material such as gravel or stones. This allows water to pool without soaking the soil. When using foraged rocks or shells, boil them for five minutes at a rolling boil to sterilize them and prevent disease or insect issues. Allow them to cool before using.

Add activated charcoal to help eliminate chemicals that could harm the plants. Activated charcoal can be found at garden centers. It absorbs any unwanted chemicals that would be taken up by the plant and harm it. Next, add a pre-moistened potting mix suitable for the chosen plants. The gravel, activated charcoal, and potting mix should make up about a quarter of the container volume.

Many plant types such as Kalanchoe, Sempervivum, Crassula, Echeveria, Sedum can be used in terrariums. To add the plants, skewers, pipe cleaners, and long-handled tweezers may be needed depending on the size of the container’s opening. When placing plants, don’t let the foliage touch the sides of the container and wipe any debris off plants with a clean paintbrush.

Clean any figures, toys, glass, pebbles, or ceramic structures with an alcohol or 10% bleach solution and allow them to dry. Dried flowers or wood may also add to the story. Supplies can be purchased from dollar stores, craft shops, and local garden centers.

To care for the new terrarium, place it near a south or western facing window or near supplemental lighting, not in direct light. Most terrarium plants are in the medium-light requirement category. Watering will vary. Closed, tightly sealed containers will only need to be watered every four to six months. Wilting plants and bottles with no condensation are a sign watering is needed.

Open containers need to be watered more often depending on humidity levels in the home. For maintenance, don’t overwater, remove any dying leaves, turn the container weekly to keep plants growing normally, and prune or pinch plants that get tall.

Making terrariums is a great family or friends’ activity. I enjoy making them with youth and they make great gifts with the holidays coming up.

For more information, watch a Creating a Bottle Terrarium webinar at go.illinois.edu/BottleTerrarium.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Low-maintenance, winter blooming holiday cacti are gift that keep on giving

By Kelly Allsup, horticulture educator

With their vibrant, floral displays and low-maintenance needs, holiday cacti are a great holiday gift. Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter cactus are each different species. They bloom reliably each year without much upkeep.

Every December, one plant in my office comes to life despite the minimal care it receives. The plant has remained in the 6-inch pot for nine years now, receives water when it is dry, and has been used prolifically in propagation workshops for Master Gardeners.

Holiday cacti are easily distinguished by the stem margins as well as timing of flowering. These cacti don't have true leaves; instead, they have flattened stem segments that are used in propagation to grow new plants.

Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator Jennifer Fishburn says holiday cacti are the gift that keep on giving. They are often passed down from generation to generation as family heirlooms because they are so long-lived.

Thanksgiving cactus, Schlumbergera truncate, has two to four saw-toothed projections resembling crab claws. Flowers are produced from late November to late December. Flower colors include white, red, lavender, salmon, orange, and yellow.

Thanksgiving cacti are often forced into bloom and sold at Christmas time, and are often misnamed Christmas cacti.

Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera x buckleyi, has scalloped or rounded stem margins. Flowers are generally showy from late December through March. The flowers form at the tips of segments.

Easter cactus, Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri, has four to six rounded teeth along the stem edges and brownish hairs at the leaf tips. Flowers in shades of pink or red flowers appear March through May. Easter cactus may re-bloom.

Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti blooms are triggered by day length. They bloom when they receive 12 to 15 hours of darkness a day for five to six weeks and are exposed to cool night temperatures.

Holiday cacti are commonly used to demonstrate propagation because leaf cuttings, rather than stem cuttings, can be used to generate new plants. However, cacti do not have true leaves. The leaves are actually stems called cladophylls.

Despite being a cactus, these plants are native to the tropical rain forest and are watered regularly with other houseplants. Water cacti when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch.

To gift holiday cacti, look for 4, 6, and 8-inch pots at garden centers. Find a decorative container with a hole in the bottom of the same size. Remember these cacti are long-lived and can thrive in this pot for the next 15 years.

When transporting cacti, wrap and bag plants to prevent exposure to cold temperatures as the buds will be severely damaged by time spent outside.

Holiday cacti can bloom profusely for a month or two and may even bloom twice a year. While in bloom, use cacti as decoration, keep them away from heat sources, and water regularly.

As a houseplant, place in front of a window and water regularly. In the summer, these tropical houseplants can go outside in a partially shaded area. Between April and October, fertilize every four weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Poinsettias add a rainbow of color options to holiday décor

By Andrew Holsinger, horticulture educator

With their bright red blooms, Poinsettia’s are a holiday tradition, but buyers don’t have to limit their selection to one color. This winter, celebrate and decorate with a rainbow of Poinsettias.

University of Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator Andrew Holsinger says there are plenty of new Poinsettia hues to choose from.

Beyond the traditional natural shades of red there are many other colors that can be sought after when purchasing a Poinsettia. If you are like me, you don’t want to limit your selection to the traditional red.

A number of natural colors are available including pink, white, yellow, and salmon. Any blue and purple Poinsettias are actually cream-colored varieties that have been spray painted.

Poinsettia’s color come from bracts which are actually modified leaves. These bracts are prompted to change color in response to shorter winter daylight. While bracts of some varieties of Poinsettia are uniformly colored, others offer patterns that add to the uniqueness of these plants.

Some new and unique varieties to look for are ‘Orange Spice,’ ‘Ice Punch,’ ‘Peppermint Twist,' ‘Winter Rose,’ ‘Red Winter Rose,’ and ‘Red Glitter.’

Poinsettias are compact plants that when properly cared for have a long-lasting display of color. Keeping them at the ideal temperature of 65⁰F to 70⁰F during the day will keep the plants healthy and colors more vibrant. Single plants can be used as tabletop floral display. A mass display of Poinsettias for makes a stunning wave of holiday color.

After the holidays are over, Poinsettias can be kept for the next season. To ‘rebloom’ a Poinsettia, bring it inside after summer and provide the proper lighting conditions to trigger the coloring.

Artificially colored Poinsettia will not carry over their dyed color.

When choosing plants, select Poinsettias with cyathia that are green-tipped or red-tipped. Instead of the colorful bracts, The cyathia are the true flowers of these plants. The greenish-yellow flowers are clustered at the center of the bracts. The cyathia can be examined when purchasing a Poinsettia to determine freshness and duration of bloom. Plants with yellow cyathia or pollen indicate that the plant is past its prime.

A healthy plant will need an appropriate location. Provide adequate light but not direct sun. Avoid drafts from windows or heating vents. Make sure that adequate drainage is provided. Foil wrappings often foil the success of keeping Poinsettias for the duration of the holiday season since they keep the container from fully draining.

When decorating your home, a fun crafty project can be to paint Poinsettias. Start with a cream-colored variety and obtain a dye suited used for floral application. Make sure to protect tabletops when applying special floral spray paints.

Explore more about how to care for Poinsettias with a University of Illinois Extension infosheet https://go.illinois.edu/PoinsettiaCare.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Give Christmas trees a second life after the holidays

By Ken Johnson, horticulture educator

Once holidays are over, the Christmas trees tend to come down. Instead of hauling this year’s tree to the dump or having the city pick it up, consider repurposing it in your landscape.

Ken Johnson says one popular use for Christmas trees after the holidays is to use them to block wind that can hinder feeding birds.

Trees can be used as a windbreak by placing them to the northwest of feeders to block where our prevailing winds come from this time of year. Not only will this help protect birds from the wind as they feed, but it can also prevent birdseed from blowing out of feeders.

Additionally, trees can be turned into a large festive bird feeder. Anchor the tree to the ground using a steel fence post. Then decorate it with strings of popcorn and/or cranberries, as well as pinecones smeared with peanut butter and sunflower seeds, suet, or chopped fruit in a mesh bag.

Christmas trees can also be used to create habitat for other wildlife in the form of brush piles. Place brush piles near field borders and in woodland areas along with other brush to provide cover for wildlife. Before building a brush pile, check for local ordinances that may prohibit them.

Another use for your Christmas tree includes providing a habitat for aquatic wildlife. Trees can be sunk in ponds to provide shelter for fish and other aquatic life. A single tree won’t offer much habitat, so it’s best to group three or four together. Trees should be sunk vertically using rocks or concrete blocks as anchors.

In the garden, evergreen branches and needles can be used as mulches to cover perennial plants during the winter. These mulches are light and won't pack or suffocate the roots of the plants they are protecting. Trees can also be chipped and used as mulch in the garden to help reduce weed problems, moderate soil temperature, and retain moisture.

Your Christmas tree can also be a good source of wood for an outdoor fire. The branches and needles are good for getting fires started, and the trunk can be used as fuel.

Never burn a Christmas tree in a fireplace or woodstove. It may contribute to creosote buildup and could cause a chimney fire.

Finally, trees can be used in a variety of crafty ways. The needles can be used to make potpourri. When dry, the trunk can be cut into wooden discs and used as coasters or trivets, used to edge garden beds, or decorated and turned into ornaments.

Regardless of how a tree is reused after the holidays, make sure to remove all ornaments and tinsel.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Use DIY kokedama moss balls to grow houseplants

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator

Free your houseplants’ roots this winter by creating organic art for your home through kokedama, a form of Japanese bonsai, where plants are grown in a special soil mix and wrapped in moss. Kokedama is a uniquely beautiful way to grow houseplants in a non-traditional way.

Kokedamas can be displayed on decorative trays or dishes, antique bowls or saucers, or attached to a piece of driftwood. They can also be hung with decorative string or wire from a window or ceiling, creating a string garden with more than more kokedama. These beautiful, natural planters make a great gift or can add a little green to your winter space.

Many different kinds of plants can successfully be grown as kokedama. An established houseplant that needs to be repotted, cuttings of houseplants with newly developed roots, or seasonal plants to decorate your space can all be planted in the moss balls.

Ideal plants would be ones that can grow in drier conditions, such as ferns, philodendron, dracaena, spider plants, and even small orchids. Succulents can also be planted in moss balls but will require less water.

Kokedamas can be created with any size plant. The size of the ball will just vary to accommodate the root mass of the plant.

Needed Materials

Lightweight potting mix or peat moss

Akadama, a coarse clay-like mineral used as bonsai tree soil.

Moss, sheet or Spanish

String

Scissors

Water

Directions

1. Start by soaking the moss in a bucket of water for one hour to rehydrate the organic material. Then, squeeze out the excess liquid and set it aside.

2. Combine the soil mixture of 70% potting mix or peat moss and 30% bonsai soil to create the ball. Slowly add water to the mixture until it can be pressed firmly into a ball without falling apart.

3. Remove the plant from its container and gently break apart the root ball and remove any excess soil, exposing most of the roots.

4. Create a hole in the soil ball large enough to fit the roots of the plant inside. You can also gently break the soil ball into two pieces, lay the roots on one side, and push the soil back together around the roots.

5. Press the moss around the soil ball until it is fully covered. Or, create a thin layer of moss on a flat surface, set the ball in the middle, and wrap the moss around the ball.

6. Use the string to attach the moss to the ball. Secure the string to the ball and wrap it randomly around the ball in every direction to keep the moss in place. Tie it off tightly to create a firm, sturdy ball.

Proper watering will be key to keeping your kokedama alive. Stick your finger in the top of the ball near the base of the plant to feel if the soil is dry. The weight of the ball will also tell you. Is it light? It is time to water.

To water the kokedama, fill a bucket or sink with lukewarm water. Gently push the moss ball into the water so it starts to absorb the water. Soak the completely submerged ball in the water for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the water and squeeze the moss ball to remove excess water, and let it drip dry before returning it to its decorative space. Mist the moss ball between watering to keep it from completely drying out.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Plant cover crops at home for healthier soils

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, horticulture educator

Healthy soil is essential for healthy plants. Using cover crops in the home garden is one way to promote soil health.

Cover crops are non-harvested crops that add organic matter to the soil, transfer nitrogen to plants, and break up heavy clay or compacted soil. They are commonly used in agriculture, but also have a place in the home garden.

Cover crops are planted before a garden is planted or after harvest. Cover crops can also be planted in areas that are unused for the season. Using cover crops in the home garden has many benefits.

Crimson Clover can be used as a warm-season or cool-season cover crop. Using crimson clover increases organic matter and soil fertility by adding nitrogen to the soil. Photo credit: Pixabay

Improving soil structure, drawing nutrients up from deep in the soil, and increasing soil fertility are just a few ways cover crops to improve soil health. Suppression of weeds, habitat for beneficial insects, increased biodiversity are other ways cover crops work for the garden's good.

There are two types of cover crops to consider, warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season cover crops are planted in spring or summer before the garden is planted or in a fallow area. Buckwheat, cowpeas, and crimson clover are warm-season are common cover crops used in the home garden.

Cool-season cover crops are planted in late summer or early fall after the vegetables are harvested. Oats, winter wheat, winter rye, and crimson clover can be used as cool-season cover crops.

Keep in mind that these cool-season cover crops need to germinate and grow before winter temperatures.

Crimson clover and cowpeas are legumes that take nitrogen from the air and convert it to a form usable by plants. Notice that crimson clover can be used as either a warm-season or cool-season cover crop.

When planting a cover crop, there is no need to cover the seeds. Allow the plants to grow until the flowering stage. Once flowering begins, either mow or cut down as close to the ground as possible to prevent seed formation. If the crop is cut down too early, it may regrow. If it is cut down too late, it may reseed.

After cutting down the cover crop, leave the cut portion as a mulch on top of the soil or till it into the ground. Both options have their benefits. Leaving the plant material as a mulch can suppress weeds. Tilling can help incorporate the organic matter into the soil, but it also disrupts the delicate soil ecosystem.

Each garden is unique, so you must decide what is suitable for each situation.

Winter hardy cover crops or crops not killed by the mowing could be tilled into the soil. A cover crop that is killed by winter temperatures would not require tilling the debris into the soil.

It is important to follow the “mow, wait, plant” rule when using cover crops. After mowing a cover crop, leave the plant debris to sit for two to four weeks before planting anything else. The residue needs to break down and the flush of microbial activity needs to slow before new plants start growing.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Garden catalog season gives gardeners chance to explore, shop for next year's seeds

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator

January begins the annual flight of vegetable, flower, and fruit tree catalogs to your mailbox or inbox. Depending on your level of gardening, the catalogs are starting to arrive frequently and en mass.

It used to be you would get either a vegetable catalog or a fruit catalog or flower catalog. Many catalogs now contain something for everyone, including the garden gadget addicts.

Illinois gardeners should start by looking for plants that thrive in USDA Hardiness Zone 5. Many catalogs offer heirloom vegetables, flowers, and fruit trees. These heirloom varieties can be some of the best tasting and or more unusual looking fruits and vegetables we get to eat.

It used to be that Swiss chard was green, but it is now also available in shades of pink, orange, yellow, gold, white, and purple.

They are called heirloom since they have had no or very little traditional breeding. This can mean they will have more disease problems though and often less production as well.

With all the plant breeding work going on, vegetables can take on new colors that are a bit outside the lines. Consider a blue potato or perhaps the more acceptable colors of green peppers being yellow, red, purple, orange. These look great in salads and other dishes. It used to be that Swiss chard was green, but it is now also available in shades of pink, orange, yellow, gold, white and purple. Newer varieties have a slenderer stalk and can be used to brighten up salads or cooked as you would use spinach.

Small fruits such as strawberries come in a variety of shades of red now. More small fruits options are also now available. Plant breeders have had success transforming smaller fruiting shrubs such as currants, gooseberries, and Aronia into well performing plants for the home garden. Rhubarb and asparagus are great additions to the garden.

Technology has been transforming gardening. There is a garden gadget for everyone. Gardeners who start their own seeds will find a variety of pots, seed starting soil mixes, markers, and more. You can start your seeds in flats individual cell packs like you see when you buy your annual flowers, or even expanding pellets.

Planting can be done in pots made of plastic, bio-renewable materials, or an organic fiber. Additional accessories that make seed starting easier include warming mats in sizes from one six pack to a full tray, plant stands with growing lights and self-watering trays, or a variety of temporary outdoor structures to use to grow out and harden vegetable plants before they go into the garden.

Hand tools are forever evolving each with their own unique characteristics. Choose wisely and choose what feels comfortable for you. Your gardening style changes as you age, so will your tools.

If your mailbox is not quite full enough, go online and sign up for a few more. It is quick and easy

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Trim trees, shrubs in the dormant season for stronger, healthier plants

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator

Throughout the growing season, gardeners and arborists talk about the benefits of pruning woody ornamentals while they are dormant, and that time is almost here.

Pruning a yew. Photo: Sarah Vogel

Pruning can seem like a daunting task, but it is an important cultural practice for the health and vigor of many trees and shrubs. Pruning is done to reduce the size and shape of the plant, increase flower or fruit production, and promote sound structure.

The correct time to prune deciduous shrubs and trees is determined by the plant’s growth habit, bloom time, and health or condition. Timing will depend on the species, but any time is a good time to remove dead, dying, or broken branches. Be sure to sanitize tools between plants with a 10% bleach solution or undiluted 70% isopropyl alcohol. Sanitize between each cut if a disease is suspected.

Spring flowering shrubs, such as lilac or forsythia, will bloom on the growth from the previous last growing season, sometimes called "old wood". The best time to prune a healthy plant is immediately after flowering in spring. Overgrown shrubs may need more extensive pruning through rejuvenation or renewal methods in late winter or early spring. Heavy pruning methods may lead to fewer blooms for a few years, but will improve the overall health of the shrub.

Summer blooming shrubs, or those that bloom after July 1, produce blooms on the current year’s growth. These are best pruned in late winter or early spring.

Do not prune deciduous shrubs in late summer as that will encourage a flush of new growth that will not have the opportunity to harden off before winter, leaving the plant susceptible to frost damage and dieback

Many of the same rules for shrubs also apply to deciduous trees. Most will respond well to late winter pruning, including fruit trees. Performing this task on trees in the dormant season gives the pruner an increased visibility of the tree’s shape without any leaves and enough time for proper wound closure for the plant. When branches are cut correctly at a node or at the branch collar, the plant will seal wounds properly to prevent the spread of decay and entry for potential pests and pathogens.

Rejuvenation method on spirea. Photo: Sarah Vogel

There are some exceptions to early spring pruning. To reduce the spread of oak wilt disease, oaks should not be pruned from March through October. River birch will respond best to cuts made in late fall or early winter after leaves have fallen and when sap flow is reduced.

Pruning techniques on evergreens will vary  depending on the species and desired effect. Fall pruning is not recommended for evergreens, as any new growth will be susceptible to winter injury. Evergreen shrubs such as juniper and yew can be pruned in March or April before new growth emerges. Evergreen trees such as pine, spruce, and fir generally require very little pruning, and removing lower branches is not advisable as it compromises the structural integrity of the tree.

Spruce and fir trees have lateral buds on the newest growth. These are buds that grow from the sides of the branch, not the ends. To create a more dense form, prune back to these lateral buds in early spring. Pines only grow from terminal buds at the end of the branch. Pines are pruned in spring or early summer at the candle stage by removing two-thirds of the elongated bud. Do not cut branches back to older growth as they will not develop new growth from those areas.

Relieve the winter blues by choosing the next calm, sunny, 40-degree day to put on boots and get some sunshine. The improved health of your trees and shrubs will be worth it.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Plant asters for unique display of fall color

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator

Fall gardens may need some added pops of color this time of year to maintain beauty and diversity until winter arrives. Asters are a late-blooming, pollinator friendly flower that looks great in the garden and in a fall floral display.

Photo by Kelly Allsup. There are 180 species of aster, many of which are native to Illinois. These fall-blooming dainty, daisy-like flowers range in color from purple, white, pink, and red, all with bright yellow centers.

Think beyond the obvious, fall-blooming favorite mums this year. Select a gorgeous, full-of-color aster instead.

There are 180 species of aster, many of which are native to Illinois. Their dainty, daisy-like flowers range in color from purple, white, pink, and red, all with bright yellow centers. New England aster, Symphyotrichum novaeangliae, and aromatic aster, Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, are two easy-to-find favorites.

Where to Plant Them

Asters grow best in full sun to partial shade areas with well-drained soils. They are typically perennials in Illinois gardens, but need to be in the ground at least six weeks before it freezes to develop a good root system and overwinter successfully.

Varieties can vary in height from 6 inches to 6 feet. Taller varieties can be pruned back by a third several times throughout the summer, stopping in late July, to create a more compact plant. This will also increase the number of blooms on the plant.

Asters will begin to bloom when the days get shorter in late summer to early fall. They are short-day plants, like mums, meaning they need long periods of darkness to initiate flower buds.

Beware, it is normal for the lower leaves to turn brown and dry up when the plant is in full bloom.

Care and Dividing

To prevent asters from self-seeding throughout the garden, cut back the plant to about 2 inches above ground level after the first hard frost has turned the foliage brown. Gardeners can also choose to leave the plant and developing seeds for winter interest and for the birds to enjoy.

To keep asters tidy and healthy, divide the plants in early spring every two to three years, or when the center dies out. Some varieties are unfortunately prone to powdery mildew, which can be reduced with good air circulation and watering in the morning at the base of the plant.

A bee and butterfly favorite, asters are a great source of fall nectar for pollinators traveling on their fall migration. While most flowers have already finished blooming, asters are just starting their show in the garden.

They serve as the larval host plant for several butterflies and moths, including painted lady butterflies.

Asters also make great cut flowers for mixed fall arrangements. Arrange them with bright yellow goldenrod and ornamental grasses for a stunning autumnal décor display.

For more information on garden care, find a local Extension expert at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Small bees attracted to small flowers

By Kelly Allsup, horticulture educator

While the bumblebee is likely the most well-known pollinator, pollinators come in a variety of shapes, species, and sizes.

Many entomologists believe the tiny sweat bee nectaring on your flowering weed is just as important to a healthy ecosystem as the more well-known bumble bee and honey bee.

Gardeners and homeowners can make a space more attractive to the small pollinators of Illinois by planting miniature flowers. These little bees, about the size of an ant, love pollinating miniature flowers in an urban environment where there is usually more floral diversity than in rural areas.

When spring comes, instead of cutting your garden back to the ground, consider removing only the top of the stems to encourage opportunistic bees like small carpenter bees to make nesting cells to overwinter in.

Plant small flowering plants such as yarrow to support small pollinators. Yarrow cannot pollinate itself and relies on the service of small bees.

Small Bees to Look For

Small sweat bees, Lasioglossum, are dark brown, gray, black, or metallic with hairs on their legs and abdomen giving them a fuzzy appearance. These pollinating bees nest in bare ground that has loose soil. They nest individually, but there may be multiple nests in one area.

Small sweat bees are especially attracted to a much-beloved Illinois native shrub, button bush, or Cephalanthus occidentalis.

Button bush boasts minuscule tube-shaped florets on a globular white seed head in the middle of summer, followed by an ornamental red seed head. This large shrub grows to about 6 to 8 feet and can form thickets in wet environments.

Yellow-faced or masked bees, Hylaeus, are dark bees that look like wasps with their yellow or white face markings. Lacking the hair of typical pollinating bees, these tiny bees ingest pollen and nectar, then regurgitate the mixture in nesting cells to feed larvae when they hatch.

This pollinator emerges in the late spring when the bold flowers of golden alexanders, Zizia aurea, begin to bloom and remains active until the compound flowers of goldenrod, Solidago spp, start to fade. Yellow-faced bees can be seen pollinating the miniature white and purple flowers of common mountain mint, Pycnanthemum virginianum. These small flowers are arranged in clusters that bloom in late summer.

Small carpenter bees, Ceratina, which are black and metallic blue, excavate the center of small stems in the garden. They have fine pollen-collecting hairs on their legs and carry pollen and nectar back to the nest within the stem.

Small carpenter bees are attracted to small flowers of spring-blooming pussy willow, Salix spp, and summer-blooming yarrow, Achillea millefolium. Yarrow flowers cannot pollinate themselves and rely on the service of small bees.

For more information on how to support pollinators, contact a local Extension horticulture expert at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Tips for planting balled-burlapped trees for long-term health, success

By Christopher Enroth, horticulture educator

Fall is a great time to plant trees, many of which are originally grown at a nursery either in a plastic container or in the ground before they are balled and burlapped. How the tree is grown in its first years and then planted affects the long-term health of the tree.

Balled-and-burlapped trees are still widely used especially for planting larger nursery stock.

What are Balled-and-Burlapped Trees?

Balled-and-burlapped trees are grown in ground at the nursery. When it is time to sell the tree, a large machine called a tree spade digs up an intact root ball. However, many of the smaller roots are lost when the tree spade pulls up the root ball. Up to 90% of the entire root system may be lost as the tree is removed from the ground.

The root ball is then wrapped in burlap and set in a wire cage that is tied tightly to keep the root ball intact while it is moved to the planting site.

Photo credit Getty Images. Fall is a great time to plant trees, many of which come from the nursery balled and burlapped. How the tree is planted, either with or without the burlap and wire around the roots, affects the long-term health of the tree

Once at the planting site, the debate about the next steps begins. Either the tree can be planted with the wire cage and burlap still in place, or the wire cage can be removed and the burlap cut or rolled down, exposing at least the top third of the root ball.

Does Burlap and Wire Help or Hinder Trees?

Those arguing for leaving on the burlap and wire cage say it helps with establishment by guaranteeing the root ball is not disturbed and protecting any remaining roots. It also maintains the soil structure around the root system. If the burlap used is natural, the fibers will decompose and the tree will grow around the wire cage. Removing the materials takes installation crews longer, which leads to greater expense.

On the flip side, some contend that leaving the burlap and wire cage on negatively affects the long-term health of the tree. Leaving the burlap on hinders root development into the native soil. Burying the burlap slows its decomposition making it a barrier for much longer than expected.

If the tree is an unstoppable force, then the wire cage is like an immovable object the tree cannot grow around. Eventually, the tree will conflict with the cage and may grow around it, but could possibly become girdled.

In the scientific studies comparing the two methods for planting balled and burlapped trees, researchers found little difference in the overall growth and health of the trees in both situations. However, time is a major factor

If all goes as planned, a newly planted tree is expected to out-live the gardener. But scientists need to publish their data while still alive so very few long-term studies exist.

Examining the arguments for and against removing the material from a balled-and-burlapped tree, it seems to be a trade-off between successful establishment and long-term health.

Post-Planting Tree Care

This entire debate is secondary to other tree planting and care items, such as watering and pruning for future tree structure. Without basic tree care, it won’t matter whether the burlap was left on or not.

The following steps are great recommendations to follow when planting new balled-and-burlapped trees.

Remove and discard any twine on the base of the tree and the basket.

Pull back burlap from the top of the root ball.

Remove soil from the top of the root ball to find where the trunk starts to flare outward. If no flare is found, which is common on conifers, remove the soil to the topmost root.

Remove the top one-third of the wire basket.

Pull back or remove burlap in the top one-third of the basket.

Backfill soil, filling in all air pockets.

Stake the tree if necessary

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Some trees weather wet soils, floods better than others

By Andrew Holsinger, horticulture educator

The splendor of trees and shrubs comes from what is above ground, but don’t forget about what lies beneath. Poorly drained areas, easily identified after a downpour of rain, are not suitable for some trees or shrubs.

Soil plays a vital role in the survival of trees and shrubs in the landscape.

Planting the right trees and shrubs in poorly drained sites has many benefits. Roots take up excess water and promote improved soil filtration. Reducing standing water can help decrease mosquito populations and create a more pleasurable environment. Surface drainage may be preferred over sub-soil drainage, which is limited or slow. Moving the water away is a great start.

Tree placement and Care

When deciding on a new tree for a wet area, think up and down, imagining both the mature canopy and the expansion of the root system.

Photo by Richard Hentschel. Flooding in yard.

Trees that do well in wetter soils often have a shallower root system, so be prepared to find those roots at or near the surface as the tree matures.

Placement will be pivotal for tree success, especially when planting in wet soils. Soil texture, or the ratio of sand, silt, and clay in the soil, influences soil moisture retention. Soil texture also influences aeration, how air moves through the soil. Avoid heavy clay soils, which have poor aeration and drainage, and hardpan soil, which is underlaid with rocky material that can interfere with root development.

Do not plant trees in wet areas in the fall. One threat to planting in wet soils is frost heaving, an upward swelling of the soil during freezing conditions caused by ice formation in the pore spaces of soils.

Plant trees and shrubs on wet sites during the early spring to ensure a full season of growth and reduce the likelihood of frost heaving that happens with a fall planting.

Other placement considerations include precipitation patterns and poorly-timed or located irrigation systems. Downspout rain discharge may also influence the suitability of a planting site.

Looking at the distribution of trees in the wild can also help guide plant selection. However, some species such as bald cypress or black gum can adapt to heavy moisture and other growing conditions that may not occur where they are naturally found.

Research to find out what the requirements for moisture are when selecting trees and shrubs. Prior performance will also indicate what trees or shrubs may be successful in your landscape.

Know Before You Grow

It is much more cost-effective to plant the right species for the location than to try to adjust the site conditions.

Trees and shrubs that thrive in wet sites include:

Downy serviceberry, Amelanchier arborea

River birch, Betula nigra

American hornbeam, Carpinus caroliniana

Common hackberry, Celtis occidentalis

Dawn redwood, Metasequoia glyptostroboides

Black gum, Nyssa sylvatica

Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum

Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis

Gray dogwood, Cornus racemose

Redosier dogwood, Cornus sericea

Spice bush, Lindera benzoin

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Fall is for feathered friends, fireplaces

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator

Birdseed and firewood are two common topics that show up every fall. Both take some planning to be successful.

Photo by Sue Styer. To avoid pests, store bird seed in covered containers in a cool, dry place such as inside a cabinet in a back porch or garage.

Feeding Birds in the Winter

Feeding the birds means starting earlier than later. Birds need to know early on that there will be something to eat on a regular basis if you want them to hang around in your yard.

With the recent outbreak of songbird deaths, Illinois officials are not currently recommending removing feeders, but stress cleaning and sanitizing feeders every two weeks and hummingbird feeders weekly.

Choose the Right Birdseed

Buying birdseed that has a little bit of everything for every bird can add up to a lot of wasted seed on the ground. Consider putting out seed that will attract only your favorite birds. This can be more cost-effective as the unwanted seed will feed four-legged critters, not to mention make a mess on the patio or in the lawn.

The type of birdseed chosen will also help determine the kind of feeder needed. Typically, feeders are designed for the size of seed being distributed — thistle versus sunflower, for example.

You may end up with several feeders catering to a variety of your favorite birds.

Birdseed can be a feeding source for pantry pests such as the Indian Meal Moth, so keep seed securely covered and consider storage in a cool garage.

Most think of feeding birds, fewer think about supplying water, too. Consider birdbaths that have a heating element to keep them from icing over in the winter.

Seasoning and Storing Winter Firewood

Now on to firewood. It is never a good idea to burn “green” firewood in the home fireplace as it will take heat away from the room and can add substantially to the creosote buildup in the chimney. Outdoors it can make for so much smoke it is impossible to sit close enough to enjoy the fire.

It may not be critical to have the best firewood to burn in an outdoor fire pit, but it is an entirely different story for the indoor fireplace.

Seasoned firewood means the wood, for logs more than 6 inches, has been cut, split, and dried for a long time. Clues that the wood is seasoned are a gray color on the ends of a log and checkmarks showing moisture loss.

Firewood should be around 20% to 25% moisture to burn well and limit smoke. Those who purchase well-seasoned wood need to keep it dry before burning it.

Make the woodpile easy to uncover and recover, or you will find yourself leaving the cover off and allowing the firewood to reabsorb the water you paid to remove.

As a rule, the heavier the firewood, given the same moisture content, the more heat it will give off. This is something to consider if there are different tree species available to purchase.

Once the home fireplace is being regularly used, only bring in the amount of firewood expected to be used in a week. It takes more than a week to “thaw out” any outdoor insects that have hidden in cracks and crevices on the bark.

This practice will keep the insects from wandering around your home and, while not likely to do any damage indoors, will keep family peace.

As an additional precaution, when stacking firewood next to the outside wall of a home, leave a few inches between for good air movement and an extra barrier for insects.

More information about cutting, purchasing, and burning firewood is available at go.illinois.edu/Firewood.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Healthy gardens start with sensible soil testing

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator

As the growing season wraps up and gardeners put vegetable beds to rest and clean and store tools for the winter, there is one task they may be forgetting. Testing the soil’s nutrients can provide a better understanding of a garden’s health and save money in the long run.

Over time, soil fertility, pH, and even soil structure can change as nutrients are depleted. Testing soils will identify missing nutrients that can then be addressed as needed. Unless there is a specific issue being remedied, soil should be tested every three to five years.

Photo credit Unsplash. Gardeners should have their soil tested every three to five years to see what nutrients are in the soil and to make any adjustments as needed. Adding fertilizer to soil that doesn’t need it can harm the environment.

Fall is a great time for gardeners to test since soil temperatures are still above 50°F and the growing season is slowing down. Any added organic matter will then decompose, and nutrients will filter into the soil over winter well before planting season.

Depending on the soil’s natural fertility and what is being grown in it, plants can perform well for years without needing fertilizer. While fertilization can help with plant vigor and vitality, experts recommend first establishing a need and purpose for fertilizer. Understanding soil nutrient concentrations before applying fertilizer is important in a sustainable landscape.

If fertilizer is not necessary, why waste product and time applying it? Overfertilization can harm trees, shrubs, and even turfgrass, especially during drought conditions.

Excess fertilizer can also end up in waterways and lead to aquatic life and water quality issues.

What do Soil Tests Tell Gardeners?

A basic soil test will measure soil pH and organic matter as well as macronutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, and magnesium. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7 and most horticultural crops do well in the range of 6 to 6.8. Many soil testing labs will also measure amounts of micronutrients such as boron, copper, iron, or manganese.

If you are concerned about soil contaminants, such as lead in an urban site, contact the soil lab about specific instructions and additional costs.

Since soil samples must represent an entire yard or garden, take several core samples from evenly distributed spots and then mix them together. Remove any roots, rocks, or twigs. Gardeners can use a soil probe, sharp spade, or trowel to gather soil, taking care to remove the same amount for each sample. If comparing soils, such as a seemingly fertile soil and one that does not produce well, take and test two separate samples.

Home soil test kits are widely variable and not recommended. There are several soil testing labs in Illinois. Labs vary in pricing and services, so call before mailing soil samples.

Many labs will provide interpretation of the soil test results upon request and Illinois Extension horticulture staff can provide further guidance. Locate a local county Extension office go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Along with soil testing, preventative plant care can reduce the need for not only fertilizers, but herbicides and pesticides as well. Most healthy trees and shrubs do not need fertilizers once they are mature and native annuals and perennials are more suited to local soils than non-native species reducing the need for fertilizer. Established lawns benefit from cultural practices such as using disease-resistant varieties, soil aeration, over-seeding, and mowing at the correct height with sharp mower blades.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Proper maintenance extends lifespan, save money on garden tools

By Mary Fischer, horticulture educator

One of the pricier expenditures for home gardeners is quality hand tools. High-quality tools will last longer, but this does mean the tools — whether shovels, rakes, pruners, or hand trowels — cost more.

Buy the best you can afford. Take care of your tools, and they will take care of you. This takes time and effort, but can extend the life of your investment.

With winter coming up, make sure to clean, oil, and sharpen tools before storing them for the season.

Photo by Mary Fischer. Long-handled tools can be stored conveniently on hanging racks or tool holders, which will help prevent damage to sharpened edges and keeps the tools organized.

Store Garden Tools Properly

The first step to tool maintenance is proper storage. Do not leave tools outside where they can absorb moisture from wet grass and dew. Instead, store tools off the ground and away from potential moisture, such as in a shed, barn, or garage.

Long-handled tools can be stored conveniently on hanging racks or tool holders, which helps prevent damage to sharpened edges and keeps the tools organized. Often more than one tool can be hung in a small area.

Short-handled or hand tools can be stored using a pegboard system.

An outline of the tool drawn on the pegboard can help identify a missing tool. If a tool is missing, check outside. Attach bright marking tape to the handle of tools to spot them more easily outdoors.

Maintenance and Care

Garden tools are typically exposed to soil and moisture. To preserve tools and keep them in proper working order, it is extremely important for tools to be clean and dry before storing.

Use a wire brush, paint scraper, or a strong blast from a hose to remove caked-on soil from shovels and hand trowels. Wipe small hand tools, such as pruners or shears, to remove any sap or moisture from the blades. Turpentine, alcohol, or mineral spirits can remove stubborn sap. Fine steel may be used, if needed.

Once clean and dry, apply an oil-based protective coating to any metal surfaces to prevent rust. If desired, use a good quality spray paint to protect metal surfaces. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment to protect eyes and hands while doing this.

Wooden handles should be free of rough areas. Sanding will help smooth out these spots. To maintain the life of the wooden handles, apply a protective coating using boiled linseed oil, oil from dried flax seeds. Polish smooth with a dry soft cloth.

Good quality hand pruners can be disassembled for cleaning and sharpening. Many pruner manufacturers have replaceable blades. Use a wire brush, sandpaper, or steel wool and a good deal of effort to remove dirt, rust, and sap from pruner blades.

It’s very important to examine the blades for any damage due to cracks, nicks, or burrs. The beveled edge of the blade should be sharpened at the same angle as the bevel.

Before storing tools away for the winter, sharpen any dull tools used for digging or pruning and file down any nicks. When it comes to sharpening, tools such as whetstones or files, are a matter of personal preference and ability.

Whetstones come in different gradations and sizes. A longer stone may be easier to use for garden tools. Whetstones require a lubricant such as 3-in-1 oil.

Diamond-coated flat files can last a lifetime and only require water for lubrication. For a quick sharpening job during the season, try a ceramic sharpener. Another quick fix is a bastard file.

It is not advisable to use power grinding stones. Heat generated through friction can make the metal brittle.

Once tools are sharp, coat the blade or metal surface lightly with an oil lubricant such as WD-40.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Don't rake fall leaves, recycle them

By Nancy Kreith, horticulture educator

Every fall, an onslaught of leaves drop relentlessly into yards leaving homeowners to rake, bag, and haul them out on the curb. But what many don’t know is that those golden-hued leaves are gold in the garden.

Photo credit Creative Commons. Fallen leaves naturally return organic matter to the soil as they decompose. Homeowners have several options for using leaves in their landscape beyond raking and disposing of them.

After raking leaves this fall, think about recycling them on your property rather than bagging them for curbside pick-up.

Fallen leaves are one of the most readily available forms of organic matter for home gardeners. Decomposing leaves increase organic matter in the soil, can be used as mulch for garden beds and lawns, and are a valuable addition to compost piles.

Ways to Recycle Leaves

Break down leaves with a leaf shredder or mulcher. Or, run over raked leaves with a lawnmower to cut them into smaller pieces. This initial breakdown allows for improved air circulation and more surface area leading to quicker decomposition.

Be sure to separate diseased leaves from the leaves you plan to recycle or compost.

The rate of decomposition for leaves will depend on the leaf size, tree species, and moisture level. Brown leaves break down faster if they are shredded and moistened. If un-shredded leaves are applied as mulch, they tend to mat together and suffocate the soil or vegetation.

However, having matted leaves in a vegetable or annual garden bed in the fall will help smother winter annual weeds. In the spring, the leaves can be incorporated or tilled into the soil.

Another easy way to recycle leaves is by storing them in garbage bags with small holes that allows leaves to break down naturally. Wetting the leaves and having holes in direct contact with the earth, where more microbes are present, will speed up the decomposition process. The end result is referred to as leaf mold or partially decomposed leaves.

Leaf mold can then be used as mulch or saved as a carbon source for adding to your compost pile in the summer when there is less readily available "brown" materials.

Brown or dry materials are typically high in carbon and will help to balance the “green” or wet nitrogen-rich materials in a compost pile.

Why Not Leave the Leaves?

Leaves serve as a wonderful soil conditioner and increase organic matter in the soil, which has a variety of benefits. More organic material will increase the amount of microbial activity which includes beneficial bacteria, fungi and other microorganisms that aid in plant growth. Organic matter also coats finer clay particles in the soil providing more air space and binds sandy soils allowing for better water retention.

Ideal garden soils should test at 5% organic matter. A standard soil test will provide the percentage of organic matter in soil. For information on soil testing kits and labs, contact a University of Illinois Extension office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

By recycling leaves on your property, not only will you be improving your garden soil, you will also be making an environmentally conscious choice to keep your yard waste on-site rather than having it hauled off as waste.

To learn more about the basics of composting, visit extension.illinois.edu/global/composting-resources.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

School gardens offer numerous benefits beyond beautification

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator

Photographer Brittnay Haag. School gardens create hands-on learning opportunities for students that aren’t typically found in a classroom. Gardening activities can bring learning to life for science, social studies, math, writing, visual arts, health, and nutrition classes.

Even with the best teachers and best technology, sometimes the best learning happens in the garden. Many school grounds have gardens for visual reasons, but the benefits of having flowers, herbs, vegetables, and fruit trees go far beyond beautification.

While so much emphasis put on the use of technology in the classroom, many kids today are missing out on the experience right outside the school doors.

School gardens create hands-on learning opportunities for students that aren’t typically found in a classroom. Classes where students are able to plan, plant, and care for a green space have been proven to benefit not only the youth but also their community in a variety of ways. Research shows gardening activities can be brought into a variety of subjects and bring learning to life for science, social studies, math, writing, visual arts, health, and nutrition.

Imagine being able to dig in the soil to explore its makeup instead of looking at pictures. Students can observe firsthand the act of pollination and the life cycle of plants, or be inspired by the garden while writing an essay or painting a picture.

The garden can also be used for health and nutrition lessons or a place to practice physical fitness while pulling weeds or spreading mulch. By growing fruits and vegetables, children's food attitudes and behaviors can change for the better. They are more likely to eat vegetables they have grown themselves and share those preferences with others.

Young learners need a place to play, explore, and learn. School gardens can be an asset to every student and teacher, offering a place to get outdoors, connect with the natural world, and explore new concepts through experiential learning.

Illinois Extension horticulture staff are available to assist schools and childcare facilities of all sizes and grade levels with starting a garden, reviving an existing garden, or connecting the curriculum to the garden. To connect with an educator in your area, visit go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

To water or not to water? Classic debate over summer lawn care begins

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator

Photographer Richard Hentschel. Cool-season grasses go dormant during the heat of summer months unless they are continuously watered, which requires ongoing fertilization and mowing.

Every summer, neighbors on either side of their respective fences revive the great debate about which is better when it comes to summer lawn care. Do you water all summer or let Mother Nature take its course?

You can find pros and cons on both sides of the fence. One of the biggest perks is enjoying a beautiful, lush green lawn in the height of the summer heat, which has the downside when July’s water bill comes.

Hentschel advises deciding whether you are going to water or not in spring because it determines what other lawn management practices are needed.

If you are going to water all summer, that changes the fertilizer program, mowing frequency, and when to collect or leave lawn clippings. Depending on the age of the lawn, disease management may also be on your list.

Those who decide to water will need to maintain a higher level of care including adding fertilizer. The typical cool-season grasses naturally expect to go dormant during the heat of summer. Keeping the grass alive with water means it will need more energy through fertilizer. More water and more fertilizer mean more frequent mowing and an overall increase in the amount of time you’re likely to spend on lawn management.

If you have an older lawn, the potential for lawn fungal diseases can increase with more water and fertilizer. Newer lawns are grown from improved seeds that are less prone to disease. A good preventative practice is to map out your watering so the lawn is dry well before the end of the sunshine. Consider starting on the north or east sides of the home, where it will take longer to dry and finish on southern or western exposures.

For those who opt-out of watering, the lawn will stay green as long as the rain lasts. It will go dormant when the weather turns hot and dry.

Homeowners will find plenty of cost savings with this option. In addition to using less water, you’ll use less fertilizer because grass that is dormant does not need to be fertilized. A dormant lawn will also need to be mowed less often, meaning less fuel for the mower.

One of the best ways to keep your lawn looking good is to mow higher, more often, and with a sharp mower blade.

The taller grass blade further shades the soil, helping to retain what soil moisture is there. This works out very well for the lawn, whether you water or not.

There will be no need to figure out what to do with all the clippings either, so long as they do not smother the lawn.

To keep your grass green for as long as possible, Hentschel suggests top-dressing the lawn annually with quality black dirt or other organic matter that will absorb and hold water for the lawn to use later.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Love fresh salsa? Plant a salsa garden

By Andrew Holsinger, Horticulture Educator

The secret to salsa from scratch is using the freshest ingredients straight from a homegrown garden. Andrew Holsinger, a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator says even those without a lot of outdoor space can grow salsa ingredients on a patio or porch.

While planting seeds in the ground gives you the best opportunity to pick custom cultivars for your personal preferences, most of these ingredients can also be grown in containers.

Tomatoes, onions, peppers, garlic, and cilantro are key components of a salsa garden. Other plants include oregano, scallions, and cucumbers.

Holsinger advises planting vegetables and herbs according to your local hardiness zone and fertilizing throughout the growing season. Plant in full sun and well-drained soil for best results and water at the base of the plant will help gardeners avoid diseases from soil splashed onto leaves.

As the base ingredient, tomato variety has an impact on taste and the amount of liquid. For a thicker salsa, use paste tomatoes such as ‘Roma,’ ‘Marzano,’ ‘Veeroma,’ and ‘Viva Italia.’ For a thinner, watery salsa, use slicing varieties, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘Better Boy,’ ‘Big Beef,’ and ‘Floramerica.’ Choose disease-resistant varieties.

Tomatoes are a warm-season vegetable that should be planted about two weeks after the average last frost date when soil temperatures stay above 60⁰F.

Tomatillos, also called Mexican ground cherries or Mexican husk tomatoes, are often used as a thickening agent in salsa or as the basis for a salsa verde. A sprawling relative of the tomato, tomatillo plants may be trained by pruning to stay within a designated area or container.

Peppers are tender warm-season vegetables that need higher temperatures than tomatoes and will determine the degree of heat in a salsa. Select pepper varieties based on shape, color, and disease resistance. Peppers can be picked at any size, but they are usually harvested when the fruit is mature.

Always exercise caution and wear plastic or rubber gloves when handling or picking hot varieties of peppers.

Onions are a cool-season vegetable. Holsinger advises planting long-day varieties in Northern Illinois and short-day varieties in Southern Illinois. There is also a newer day-neutral onion, which is between a short-day and long-day onion.

Garlic is a perennial that should be planted in the fall. It should be divided annually to get good-sized bulbs. Plant individual cloves in well-drained soil for the largest bulbs. Hardneck varieties have larger cloves than the softneck varieties and are easier to peel. Holsinger recommends the hardneck varieties ‘Spanish Roja,’ ‘Carpathian,’ and ‘Georgian Crystal.’

Cilantro is an herb often used to flavor salsas. Pick cilantro before the plant flowers and plant it in succession to maintain a steady supply through the season.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

Large yard not required to support pollinators

By Nancy Kreith, horticulture educator

Pollinators are responsible for an estimated one in every three bites of food that humans eat, so it’s no wonder they’re getting a lot of buzz these days. For those who want to support these hard-working environmental contributors, but don’t have a large yard or outdoor space, container gardens are the answer.

There are a few things to consider when creating a container garden that will attract and support pollinators throughout the growing season, says Nancy Kreith, University of Illinois Extension. horticulture educator.

Pick a location that has full sun, at least six hours of daylight, and fill it with plants that will thrive in that condition.

You will have the most success with plants that are drought-tolerant. That way, you will not have to water as much. Annuals are a good choice, but you can also select Illinois native perennial plants.

One combination may be a short variety of zinnia as a border and cosmos as a centerpiece. Another option is lantana as a border and a shorter variety of sunflower, 3- to 4-feet tall, as a centerpiece. Marigolds can work as a border plant for annual blue salvia.

I’ve had great success in attracting hummingbirds with ‘Black & Blue’ salvia.

Native perennials that perform well in containers include purple coneflower, prairie blazing star, bottle gentian, lanceleaf coreopsis, prairie smoke, and field pussytoes.

Herbs grow well in containers. Dill, fennel, and parsley are host plants for the black swallowtail butterfly. Other herbs with significant blooms include lavender, chive, nasturtium, thyme, basil, borage, and hyssop. Group herbs based on their size when fully grown and watering needs.

Lavender and thyme are both fairly drought tolerant, so that would be a good combination.

Borage and nasturtium also work well together with borage filling the bulk of the pot while a trailing variety of nasturtium will spill over the side of the container.

Choosing the appropriate container is important. It should be large enough to support plenty of plants and have drainage holes at the bottom.

Kreith recommends using a soilless potting mix that is peat or coir based and includes a mineral, such as perlite to allow for better drainage. Add fertilizer or use a potting mix that already contains it.

Water plants until it drips out of the bottom of the container. Smaller containers will need to be watered more often.

During hot months, daily watering is typical. Larger containers will not dry out as fast, so every other day watering may be enough.

Deadhead spent flowers to encourage reblooming and avoid unwanted reseeding. Monitor your perennials for stress levels and replace if they become unsightly or die.

Once the growing season is over, Kreith says containers can be brought indoors and overwintered in a garage, shed, or basement. If you’re going to leave them outside, group containers together in an area protected from wind, then water them and cover with a thermal blanket, straw, shredded leaves, or other mulch.

Tomato gardeners beware, blossom end rot can be prevented

By Ken Johnson, horticulture educator

Blossom end rot is the scourge for any tomato grower. What starts as a light tan spot at the end of the fruit where the blossom was, will expand and eventually turn black and leathery.

Photo credit Flikr. Blossom end rot is caused by low levels of calcium, not by disease or insects. Usually, it’s not an issue of a lack of calcium in the soil, but how well a plant can absorb calcium.

When it comes to tomatoes, it is most commonly seen on larger fruited cultivars or long-fruited varieties like roma. Blossom end rot can also affect peppers, eggplants, squash, and watermelons.

Contrary to popular belief, blossom end rot is not caused by a disease or insects. It is actually a physiological disorder caused by low levels of calcium. There are few reasons a plant may not be getting enough calcium. Usually, it’s not an issue of a lack of calcium in the soil, but rather how well the plants absorb calcium.

Plant leaves transpire and naturally lose water so they then take up more water along with nutrients from the soil. Anything that gets in the way of transpiration can reduce calcium uptake.

Drought stress, inconsistent soil moisture, cold or waterlogged soils, and rapid vegetative growth due to too much nitrogen fertilization can all lead to blossom end rot. High concentrations of ammonium, potassium, and magnesium in the soil, often due to over-fertilization, can also cause issues with calcium uptake.

Others argue that blossom end rot is caused by abiotic stress to the plants. Drought, high light intensity, or heat cause cells in the fruits to die which results in blossom end rot.

Regardless of what exactly causes blossom end rot, there are steps gardeners can take to prevent it.

Start by picking tomato varieties that are less prone to developing blossom end rot, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘Mountain Pride,’ and cherry tomatoes. Do a soil test to find out the calcium levels and if calcium should be added.

Avoid excessive fertilization of plants during early fruiting, especially with fertilizers using ammonium as their nitrogen source (ammonium competes with calcium uptake).

Water plants deeply starting when fruits first form and continuing throughout the growing season. In general, plants need about one inch of moisture per week, whether from rain or irrigation. If hot, dry weather is predicted, make sure plants are well watered before it arrives and continue watering daily. Adding a top layer of mulch can help conserve and even out the moisture in the soil.

Containers dry out quickly, so these plants are more likely to develop blossom end rot without consistent watering. Potted plants should be fertilized. Some soilless potting mixes have low nutrient levels, so it may be necessary to add fertilizer.

Unfortunately, once a fruit has blossom end rot, there is nothing you can do. Foliar applications of calcium don’t help much because the calcium doesn’t move into the fruit well. It is best to remove the fruit and discard it.

Get to know the incredible Illinois milkweed

By Ryan Pankau, horticulture educator

In recent years, milkweeds have gained attention from the public due to their exclusive relationship with the monarch butterfly.

Photo by Ryan Pankau. Swamp milkweed is one of two native milkweeds that prefer wetland habitats with full sun and moist, not wet, soil. Its small pink flowers are quite fragrant, smelling like cinnamon when it blooms.

Many people are familiar with common milkweed. Before I knew the exact species name, I knew this plant was a milkweed and that it had milky sap.

The common milkweed is a notoriously weedy species, growing wherever its light, fluffy seeds land. Any open sunny habitat will do from roadside ditches to abandoned fields, along woodland edges and railroad tracks.

While you may be familiar with the common variety, there are more than 20 milkweed species native to Illinois.

The variety and adaptability in this plant family is really quite amazing. You can find milkweed thriving in nearly every environment throughout our state — wetlands, woodlands, open prairies, and even rocky glades.

Although many of them are remarkably adaptable, five species of milkweed are currently listed as endangered in Illinois and one is considered federally threatened.

Swamp milkweed is one of two native milkweeds that prefer wetland habitats with full sun and moist, not wet, soil. Despite these very specific preferences, it occurs in nearly every county across Illinois. It often pops up in drier locations where it takes on a narrow form with wider leaves, which can make field identification challenging.

The adaptability and attractive appearance of swamp milkweed makes it a popular landscape plant. Its small pink flowers are quite fragrant, exuding a cinnamon scent when it blooms.

Butterfly milkweed is another ornamental extrovert among the milkweed family often found in landscape plantings.

Many gardeners I’ve discussed this plant with over the years did not even realize it was actually a milkweed and for good reason.

Butterfly milkweed has an alternate leaf arrangement and lacks the trademark milky sap. To add to the confusion, it is commonly referred to as ‘butterfly weed’ on plant tags and in common parlance. It has immaculate orange blooms, while most milkweed flowers are white or pink. It has long-lasting blooms, which appear first in early summer and often for a second time in late summer or early fall.

Whether you’re looking for an interesting and ecologically valuable plant to add to your landscape, or just want to observe and enjoy interesting plant species in nature, consider this underrecognized Illinois native. There truly is a milkweed out there for everyone.

Irrigate gardens to beat summer heat

By Austin Little, horticulture educator

As the air conditioners crank up this summer, so do the watering needs of the garden. Watering is one the simplest and most routine gardening tasks, but there are ways to make it more efficient.

Photographer Austin Little. Drip tape is a great way to keep up with garden watering in the heat of summer. The general rule of thumb is about 1 inch of water per week for most herbaceous plants in the garden.

The general rule of thumb for summer watering is about 1 inch of water per week for most herbaceous plants in the garden, but there are plenty of exceptions to the rule.

When daytime temperatures start to get into the 90s, Little recommends doubling the irrigation amount to 2 inches per week, depending on how fast the soil is drying out.

One simple way to monitor how much water the garden is getting is to bury an empty tuna can even with the soil line. The can is 1-inch deep so it will act as a low-tech watering gauge.

When combined with a simple rain gauge, you’ll have a pretty good idea of your garden’s weekly watering needs.

Automated watering systems are convenient, but when it’s raining, cooler, and cloudy, or hot and windy, the watering needs will change and it’s important to adjust an automated system as needed.

On average, 1 inch of irrigation can percolate down about 8 inches into the soil. Check to see whether water is getting to the root zone by probing a few inches into the soil with a trowel, or simply digging in with your finger.

If a lot of soil particles stick to your finger and there is noticeable moisture, then there’s likely sufficient soil water for the day.

Containers drain out faster than in-ground plantings, so they may need to be watered once in the morning and once again in the afternoon. Signs like drooping, curling, yellowing and dropping leaves can indicate acute water stress, but it’s not always from too little water. Signs of overwatering can look remarkably similar so check soil moisture often.

It’s usually best to water early in the morning because this allows the water to soak into the root zone where it will be the most useful to the plant as the day warms up. Watering early also helps more water to absorb into the soil. As the day heats up, as much as two-thirds of the water from irrigation can be lost to evaporation.

Pairing drip lines or soaker hoses with mulch will help the soil hold onto moisture longer and keep the soil cooler on the hottest days. Place drip irrigation lines near plants and layer 2 inches of mulch over the lines and the plants. This combination will allow plants to thrive through the harshest summer heat.

From wish to weed: our love-hate relationship with dandelions

By Jennifer Fishburn, horticulture educator

To a child, a dandelion is a magical thing. It’s one of the first plants we learn to recognize. The bright yellow flowers make cheerful bouquets, necklaces, and crowns. The fluffy white seed heads become wishes when we squeeze our eyes shut and blow.

Common dandelion’s yellow flower is actually a composite of several flowers, each able to make a parachute-like brown seed that can be carried aloft several miles by the wind. Most gardener’s consider them weeds, but dandelions provide pollen for insects when other flowers are not in bloom and both their leaves and flowers have culinary uses.

Adults, especially home gardeners striving for a perfectly manicured lawn, tend to be less fond of this deep-rooted, cool-season, non-native perennial.

But believe it or not, dandelion seeds are available for purchase from garden seed catalog companies.

Common dandelion, Taraxacum officinale, is easily recognized by a basal rosette of deeply cut leaves, a long taproot, and a hollow stem that supports yellow flowers. The yellow flower is actually a composite of several flowers, each able to make a parachute-like brown seed that can be carried aloft several miles by the wind. The stalk can support as many as 100 to 300 flowers.

Fishburn says there are a couple of potential reasons that gardeners may want to cultivate dandelions.

Pollinating insects will visit dandelion flowers to collect pollen and nectar. While dandelions may not have the most nutritious pollen, they can still be an important food source when there aren’t many other flowers available. Dandelions will flower throughout the year but mainly appear in early spring or late fall.

They also have several culinary uses. Most recipes use the leaves, which are taste slightly bitter. Tender leaves, harvested in the spring before plants bloom, can be eaten raw, while older leaves are cooked. Use the leaves in salads, soups, as cooked greens, and in potato salad. The flowers can be made into wine or jelly.

If you are not a dandelion fan, it is possible to get rid of them, but ensuring that they won’t return requires some effort. Dandelions prefer to grow in a moist, sunny location, but will also grow in shade. If the soil is moist, a small dandelion can be successfully removed by hand.

Moist conditions make the job easier,” says Fishburn, “but even with moist soil, it is difficult to pull a dandelion and remove the entire taproot.

A dandelion can grow a six to 18-inch taproot. Leaving behind even a 1-inch section can result in a new plant.

A properly maintained, healthy, dense stand of turfgrass is the best defense against weed invasions. If necessary, Fishburn suggests doing a spot treatment in early fall with postemergence herbicides.

This is when the dandelion plant is taking food from the leaves and storing it in the roots. When using herbicides, always read and follow label directions carefully.

Whether the sight of these bright yellow flowers dotting a lawn makes you cringe or makes you smile, these plants are connected to memories of summer, childhood, and magic.

Hire tree care professional with confidence

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator

Trees are large components in the landscape, both in size and life span. When pests, pathogens, or disorders appear or a tree is not cared for properly, the compromised tree can harm people or property.

Photographer Sarah Vogel. Tree care should often be left to the professionals who are trained to deal with dangerous scenarios such as nearby power lines.

Hiring someone to assess tree healthcare needs helps ensure the long-term health and safety of trees in the landscape. Choosing the right tree care company for your needs can mean the difference between an expensive headache and money well spent.

Certified arborists are trained and qualified in the evaluation and diagnosis of tree disorders through the International Society of Arboriculture. An arborist certification means they know about the science of tree establishment, pruning, safety, and fertilization in accordance with national standards.

Before hiring, we recommend the tree owner assess their needs. What do they need? Identification, diagnosis, pruning, or removal? A local Illinois Extension office can help clarify that process.

When diagnosing a tree, a reliable tree care company will ask questions such as when the tree was planted, how and when it has been pruned, what symptoms have been observed, and any recent nearby construction. Make note of symptoms and their timeline for easy reference.

Some companies specialize in regular maintenance, such as fertilizing or pruning hedges. Pruning fruit trees or pruning a limb over a building may warrant work from two different companies. If a tree needs to be removed, ask how and when the company will access the yard. Take precautions to minimize damage to surrounding structures, trees, lawns, and other objects.

It is important to confirm the company is insured. Insurance can protect both the tree service and the homeowner from litigation if there is an accident. Liability insurance covers damage to homeowner property and worker’s compensation insurance covers injuries to employees while working. Ask for proof of insurance before any work begins.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Tree care can be costly, and a considerate professional will take time to explain the process.

Ask for and check referrals and references. A brief conversation with another customer can often provide valuable insight. Online reviews are handy but don’t always paint the whole picture. Tree care can be expensive. Get two to three written estimates and ask the same questions of each company: cost, services included, equipment used, payment terms, and time estimates. Cheap doesn’t always mean good.

Ask for a contract if one is not offered. This holds both parties accountable in the event of miscommunication. Homeowners and tree service professionals should agree on what tasks will be performed and when.

Companies should require the use of personal protective equipment and all crewmembers should follow national safety standard guidelines. This is not the client’s responsibility to enforce, but they can specify that all work be performed according to safety standards.

When considering credentials, ISA-certified arborists on staff are recommended, but not required. The arborist may belong to a local chapter or other professional associations. These memberships do not guarantee quality, but they do show professional commitment. There are other credentials that go beyond regular terms of service to show outstanding ability and commitment, such as AED and CPR training, emergency aerial rescue certification, powerline safety certification, and climber safety certification.

A knowledgeable tree care professional will do the job well, satisfy their customer, and ensure the longevity of the tree. To find a certified arborist in your area, visit International Society of Arboriculture, Tree Care Industry Association, American Society of Consulting Arborists, Illinois Arborist Association, or contact your local Extension office.

Create a bird-friendly yard

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, horticulture educator

North America has lost 3 billion birds since 1970, according to a study from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. This is a 30% decrease.

This statistic may feel devastating and overwhelming, but you don’t have to feel helpless. There are some simple things that you can do to make your yard bird-friendly.

With habitat loss and degradation being the most significant contributors to population decline, the good news is that even small green spaces can provide the four things that birds need to thrive: food, cover, water, and space.

Photo credit Unsplash. This garden is providing essential resources to support bird populations. Thistle is a good source of seeds for birds such as this female American goldfinch.

Landscape plants provide the food birds need to survive and raise their young and diversity is key. Seeds, nuts, berries, and the insects plants attract are all important sources of nourishment.

Young birds eat more than you might think. Even small adult birds, the chickadee, for example, need 6,000 caterpillars to raise a clutch of young birds.

Adding plants that provide food for caterpillars ensures an important food source for growing birds. Native trees, including oak, willow, cherry, plum, and birch can support many different caterpillar species. Herbs and native perennials, such as butterfly weed, violets, and dill are also host plants for caterpillars.

Berries, nuts, and seeds are other essential food sources that provide calories to help birds prepare for overwintering or migration. Several native shrub varieties provide berries. Serviceberry, also known as Juneberry, produces berries in the early summer. Other native species, such as red twig dogwood, elderberry, viburnum, and spicebush yield berries throughout summer. Holly, chokecherry, hawthorn, and crabapple have fruit that stays on the branches, providing food all winter long.

Common sources for nuts and seeds include oak, hickory, beech, maple, and birch trees. Spruce, pine, and fir trees provide pine nuts as well as year-round shelter for birds. Herbaceous plants, such as coneflower, aster, sunflower, and goldenrod provide seeds if left in the garden until spring.

A bird-friendly yard must have cover for shelter and nesting sites. The dense structure of willow, hawthorn, holly, and conifer trees provides valuable protection. Milkweeds, native thistles, cinnamon ferns, and asters produce soft, fluffy material that many bird species use to build nests.

Adding water to your landscape will also attract birds. Small ponds with uneven edges and shallow spaces provide a place for birds to drink, splash, and bathe. A small pump will keep water moving and reduce mosquito concerns.

For a less permanent option, try a birdbath. Change the water every two to three days and clean the bath with a scrub brush once a week to keep the water clean, healthy, and mosquito-free.

A final element to consider is space. Wildlife feel more at home in layered, densely planted areas, so Flowers-Kimmerle recommends leaving part of a yard unmanicured.

Careful consideration for food, cover, water, and space in your yard will provide much-needed habitat for a variety of bird species. Even small changes can make a significant difference in supporting bird populations.

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Clovers are making a comeback in lawn seed mixes. Today many families want to attract more pollinators to their yards. They are searching for ecologically sound ways to grow grass, including adding white clover back to the turf seed mix. Clover adds diversity to lawns and provides food for bees says Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

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https://web.extension.illinois.edu/worms/

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The Adventures of Herman the Worm | U of I Extension

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I love utilizing the tools available from Green Our Planet. I especially love sharing the nutrition lessons from the chef. I often share the nutrition lessons with my families as part of our monthly family engagement. Green Our Planet separates curriculum by grade level, which is very helpful for my PK class since my school district is PK-12 grade. The lessons are applicable and relatable for my students.

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Want to make something delicious and healthy and learn how to incorporate more fruits and vegetables into your diet? Do you want to learn the importance of healthy eating? Green Our Planet's Chef and Nutrition team will show you how to turn simple, garden-fresh ingredients into delicious meals for your whole family! Join us for a culinary and educational seed-to-table experience. To learn more about nutrition, visit Choose My Plate.

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Want to make something delicious and healthy and learn how to incorporate more fruits and vegetables into your diet? Do you want to learn the importance of healthy eating? Green Our Planet's Chef and Nutrition team will show you how to turn simple, garden-fresh ingredients into delicious meals for your whole family!

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Between YouTube, the website, and the podcast, there's lots of information to make gardening fun.

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Epic Gardening - YouTube

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This is a great local (to northern Virginia) farm with free admission.

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Happy New Year, folks!

vm.tiktok.com/ZMJtGEQXx/

[Image: series of four photos, each featuring a different message on our roadside marquee-style signs. Clockwise from top right, the messages read "Peace out, 2020," "See you next year," "Happy New Year!," and "We're like 2020% done." The sign is beige with red trim and says "Cox Farms" at the top, and the sliding letters are black.]

Happy Winter Solstice! In addition to celebrating the shortest day of the longest year EVER, we're also entering the final hours to stock up on donuts and kettle corn, and possibly your final opportunity EVER for a self-driven hayride... The last hayride entry is 4:30 and we're open until 5 PM today (Mon 12/21).

[Image: Santa Claus at Foamhenge! Fully-suited Santa stands with outstretched arms in front of the outer ring of sarsens at Foamhenge. Other "stones" are visible in the background, and the sky is bright blue.]

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Happy New Year, folks! vm.tiktok.com/ZMJtGEQXx/ [Image: series of four photos, each featuring a different message on our roadside marquee-style signs. Clockwise from top right, the messages read "Peace out, 2020," "See you next year," "Happy New Year!," and "We're like 2020% done."

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https://get2green.fcps.edu/index.html
This is a site for Fairfax County Schools, but has lots of great general tips for gardening too.

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FCPS Get2Green is the environmental stewardship program for Fairfax County Public Schools.
Use this website as a resource to engage in environmental stewardship projects at your school, incorporate sustainability in the classroom, find your school's energy and recycling data, and learn more about green initiatives in FCPS.

Get2Green - In the News

(July 22, 2021 )
Special Education Students Dig In to Transform a Green Space and Gain Work Skills at the Same Time
(July 16, 2021 )
Fairfax County School Board Sets Goal for Carbon Neutral Energy Use by 2040
(July 13, 2021)
Lynbrook Elementary Turns Garden Plots Over to Families, Who Grow Food for Own Tables
(June 8, 2021)
Woodson Students Farm Vegetables on School Grounds for Fairfax Families In Need
(May 21, 2021)
They're Here! Cicadas Bring Learning Opportunities to Belvedere Elementary School Students
(April 22, 2021)
Outdoor Learning Becomes Second Nature For FCPS Elementary Students in Centreville
(March 5, 2021)
School Board Ready to Sign Contracts for Solar Program
(January 11, 2021)
First FCPS Electric Bus Arrives
(May 27, 2020)
Riverside Elementary School Earns NWF Eco-Schools Green Flag Award
Tweets by fcpsGet2Green

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FCPS Get2Green is the environmental stewardship program for Fairfax County Public Schools. Use this website as a resource to engage in environmental stewardship projects at your school, incorporate sustainability in the classroom, find your school's energy and recycling data, and learn more about green initiatives in FCPS.

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This is a fantastic resource for lesson plans, advice, events, and sustainable gardening practices.

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Following are a number of resources to help you plan lessons and activities for engaging children and youth in your garden, whether it be located at a school, museum, community farm, or other site.

Stay up-to-date about youth gardening and school gardens between National Children & Youth Garden Symposia.

Green Teacher is dedicated to helping educators, both inside and outside of schools, promote environmental awareness among young people aged 6-19.

A new online platform for gardeners like you. Kids Garden Community is the place to ask questions, explore resources, inspire, and be inspired.

The School Garden Support Organization Network is made up of organizations and individuals that support multiple school garden programs at a regional, school district, or state level. The SGSO Network, in partnership with Sprouts Healthy Communities Foundation, will host a Growing School Gardens Summit April 22-25.

Explore natural habitats, climate stability, plant life, and green careers with resources by Scholastic and Seed Your Future.

Curricula and other resources to help teachers, volunteers and parents plan and implement successful youth garden programs.

Resources for schools gardens from a leader in garden-based education for the past 40 years.

Explore the newest youth curriculum from Cornell Garden-Based Learning- Project S.O.W. (Seeds of Wonder): Food Gardening with Justice in Mind.

Download the Living Schoolyard Activity Guide, containing 131 ideas for year round school ground activities.

Free resources including
What's in Our Library, a comprehensive list of garden, nature, and food-themed books for kids ages 2-10.

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Following are a number of resources to help you plan lessons and activities for engaging children and youth in your garden, whether it be located at a school, museum, community farm, or other site. Stay up-to-date about youth gardening and school gardens between National Children & Youth Garden Symposia.

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also https://agclassroom.org/

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Our Mission

To be a leading collaborator and trusted provider of PreK-12 educational resources and teacher professional development programs focusing on awareness and knowledge of agriculture and natural resources in Florida.

Announcements

Industry Highlights

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Industry Highlights

Florida is "Squashin'" it!

Florida squash is a healthy versatile fruit!

Support FAITC Programs!

By making a tax deductible purchase of an Ag Tag, you will help educate Florida's future consumers, voters and leaders about the importance of the Florida agriculture industry.

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Industry Highlights Florida squash is a healthy versatile fruit! Florida Agriculture in the Classroom, Inc. Florida Agriculture in the Classroom, Inc. Florida Agriculture in the Classroom, Inc. Florida Agriculture in the Classroom, Inc. Industry Highlights Florida squash is a healthy versatile fruit!

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We’re bringing a wave of Seed Change to states and communities poised for significant farm to school growth.

Working at the state and grassroots levels, Seed Change jumpstarts activities that bring local food and gardens into schools and early care and education settings and elevates food and agriculture education for children. With this initiative, the National Farm to School Network, in collaboration with state and community partners, is rapidly scaling up farm to school activities and strengthening partnership for long term sustainability.

Seed Change provides the direct funding, program strategies and proactive technical assistance needed to significantly increase the number of schools, children, farmers and communities benefitting from farm to school activities and the dollars spent on locally sourced food.

Learn about our Seed Change projects below.

Seed Change in Native Communities aims to expand farm to school activities in Native communities as a strategy to leverage community-wide initiatives towards building food security and food sovereignty and towards revitalizing use of traditional foods. Five Native schools have been awarded mini-grants to expand and promote farm to school in their communities in 2017 and 2018.

Seed Change in Native Communities with Farm to School is made possible with generous support from the Aetna Foundation, a national foundation based in Hartford, Conn. that supports projects to promote wellness, health and access to high-quality health care for everyone.

Learn more about this project

Seed Change in Mississippi aimed to build the social infrastructure and systems needed to support the growth of farm to school across Mississippi. This project launched the Mississippi Farm to School Network as a hub for resources, information and technical assistance within the state. Led by the National Farm to School Network’s Mississippi Core Partners, the Mississippi Farm to School Network promotes farm to school activities across the state while collecting and dispersing crucial information to and from a wide audience.

Seed Change in Mississippi was made possible by a generous grant from the W.K. Kellogg Foundation, which shares the National Farm to School Network’s belief that all children should have an equal opportunity to thrive.

Learn more about this project

The National Farm to School Network’s initial Seed Change project in Kentucky, Louisiana and Pennsylvania directly reached over 92,000 students and indirectly impacting thousands more. Through mini grants to 100 schools, trainings for grant recipients at model school districts, in-state networking opportunities and the development of technical assistance programs, Seed Change KY/LA/PA created accessible and sustainable farm to school programs with wide-reaching impact. This 18-month project was launched in March 2015 and completed in August 2016.

Seed Change in Kentucky, Louisiana and Pennsylvania was made possible by a generous grant from the Walmart Foundation, which shares the National Farm to School Network’s commitment to improving child and community health through innovative partnerships.

Learn more about this project

Building partnerships at the state and community level is essential to creating strong and sustainable farm to school programs. That’s why Seed Change works to provide support and resources that jump start grassroots farm to school programs, bringing local food into schools and elevating food and nutrition education for students. We’re excited to keep Seed Change growing, spreading a wave of farm to school growth across the country. Learn more here. If you or your organization would like to become a partner in expanding Seed Change, contact Helen Dombalis, Senior Director, Programs and Policy, at helen@farmtoschool.org.

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We’re bringing a wave of Seed Change to states and communities poised for significant farm to school growth.

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Ecoschools USA Schoolyard Habitats Pathway and Audit

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Ecoschools USA Schoolyard Habitats Pathway and Audit

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This is a great resource to audit and brainstorm ways to improve the outdoor learning space that are student centered.  It also helps you win some recognition that makes it somewhat gamified for students as they work toward Bronze, Silver and eventually Green Flag recognition for the school!
-Rachel Clausen

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Step 1: Form an Eco-Action Team

The Eco-Action Team is the driving force behind Eco-Schools USA. Ideally, your Eco-Action Team should be representative of the whole school community-including people beyond the school walls, such as facilities staff, board members, and members of the greater community. Eco-Schools USA has developed a worksheet to help guide the development of this team.

Step 2: Conduct an Environmental Audit

The Environmental Checklist is an essential tool for understanding the current environmental situation in your school. It provides the basis for your Eco-Action Plan. Eco-Schools USA has developed an activity to get your students started.

In addition to the optional Environmental Checklist, pathway-specific audits allow teams to utilize a pathway-specific lens to dive deeper into problems and solutions, and provide the basis for the team's Eco-Action Plan.

Step 3: Create an Eco-Action Plan

The action plan follows as the result of analysis and conclusions drawn from the Environmental Audit and sets forth a series of goals, actions, and a timeline for achieving environmental improvements.

1. To get started, preview the sample action plan for the Schoolyard Habitats pathway. This example is designed to be a springboard to developing the team's own action plan.

2. Use the blank action plan to develop the team's vision.

Sample Action Plan (K-5) | Blank Action Plan (K-5)
Sample Action Plan (6-12) | Blank Action Plan (6-12)

Step 4: Monitor and Evaluate Progress

Monitoring and evaluation are intrinsic elements of the action plan, helping to check progress toward goals, make adjustments for greater success, and validate that actions are making an impact.

Step 5: Link to Existing Curriculum

Enrich your classroom curriculum with Eco-Schools projects and activities.

Step 6: Involve the Community

Communities are made up of diverse perspectives. When students consistently and authentically work to include community members from all walks of life, not just the school community, they are gaining access to dynamic networks whose end goals are the same, making their place in this world happier and healthier.

Step 7: Create an Eco-Code

The Eco-Code is the school's mission statement and should demonstrate-in a positive, inclusive, and imaginative way-the whole school's commitment to improving their environmental performance.

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Schoolyard Habitats Pathway | Eco-Schools USA

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The Eco-Action Team is the driving force behind Eco-Schools USA. Ideally, your Eco-Action Team should be representative of the whole school community-including people beyond the school walls, such as facilities staff, board members, and members of the greater community. Eco-Schools USA has developed a worksheet to help guide the development of this team.

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https://lsf-lst.ca/

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LSF has established the Susan Langley Excellence in Sustainability Teaching Fund to honour Susan's passion and commitment to education and sustainability. The Susan Langley Excellence in Sustainability Teaching Fund will continue Susan's important legacy in "empowering our children to change the world". To make a contribution to the Fund please click here.

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This is where a great amount of the lessons that I do come from that are garden related. There are so many resources!

-Adrianna Honigs

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Homepage@noblestudios 2022-05-24T16:51:20-07:00

Apply Now! Green Our Planet School Garden Grants Open Till June 10!

Major discounts on our Hydroponics STEM Program (80% off) and our outdoor GardenConnect STEM Program (71% off). Apply now! The deadline is June 10th.

The Wonder of the Universe Starts with a Seed

Green Our Planet teaches students to love and care for our planet through comprehensive STEM school garden and hydroponics programs throughout the United States. We use gardens as a portal for understanding both life on Earth and our place in the universe.

Sparking Curiosity

We help install turnkey outdoor garden and indoor hydroponic systems at schools so that they can be used as living laboratories, which help inspire students to become the next generation of scientists, farmers, chefs, and entrepreneurs.

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Thank you to The Engelstad Foundation

1 year.  250 schools.  200,000 students.  9,000 teachers.  800,000 family members…

All empowered to grow food using outdoor and indoor school gardens thanks to The Engelstad Foundation. The Engelstad Foundation generously donated $2.5 million to Green Our Planet to explode the school garden and hydroponics movement across the United States to improve STEM education, create healthy communities and connect people to the planet in a meaningful way.

What We Do

Whether it’s the seeds in gardens or the seeds of knowledge in young minds, Green Our Planet inspires growth. We open students’ minds to the wonders of the universe–from the soil to the stars–in everything we do.

Our Impact

Since installing our first school garden in 2013, we’ve expanded our programs nationwide–from Alaska to Florida and from metropolitan cities and the smallest of rural towns. Our garden programs allow teachers to engage students experientially, which is the most powerful form of education there is.

277 Outdoor & Hydro Gardens Installed

3,500+ Teachers Using Our STEM Curricula

200+ Student Farmer’s Markets Each Year

Our Programs

In an era of disconnection from our natural world, we use garden-based education to allow students to directly connect with the living world around us. Our programs establish STEM laboratories within and outside of schools so that teachers can integrate experiential education directly into their classrooms, so students learn first hand just how magical the world is that science has revealed to us.

School Gardens

Running the only STEMworks-accredited school garden program in the United States, Green Our Planet helps teachers create comprehensive school garden programs that can transform their students’ lives.

Hydroponics

Not all climates are suited for outdoor gardening, so we created the only STEMworks-approved hydroponics program in the U.S. Students can now learn how to use the same hydroponic systems NASA plans to use for its colonies on Mars!

Virtual Academy

Students of all ages can learn directly from our experts about STEM, nutrition, gardening, and hydroponics with Green Our Planet’s engaging, curriculum-based video lessons.

Where We Grow

Green Our Planet outdoor school garden and hydroponics programs in the U.S.

Green Our Planet’s STEM Outdoor School Garden Program

Green Our Planet’s STEM School Hydroponics Program

Get Involved

There are many ways to get involved with Green Our Planet and support school gardens! Organizations and individuals alike are welcome to get involved via volunteering, donations, sponsorships, and more.

Green Our Planet’s Newsletter

Sign up for Green Our Planet’s Newsletter and get updates straight to your inbox!

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Green Our Planet | America’s Largest School Garden Program

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Green Our Planet is a nonprofit that uses school gardens and hydroponics to teach students STEM, nutrition & conservation

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-Caryn Seiler

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We really enjoy spending the day here. It isn't not free, but I don't mind paying because they have so much to do there. We spend hours walking through all the different areas.

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https://www.almanac.com/vegetable-gardening-for-beginners

- Jen Winston, TenderHearts Learning Center

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In this comprehensive guide, we cover how to start a vegetable garden from scratch, which vegetables to grow, and when to plant what. We've also added a "starter" garden plan consisting of easy-to-grow vegetables, companion planting techniques, and some lovely flowers!

Vegetable Gardening for Beginners

Why garden, you ask? How about enjoying the best vegetables and fruit you've ever eaten? If you've never tasted garden-fresh food, you will be amazed by the sweet, juicy flavors and vibrant textures. There's absolutely nothing quite like fresh veggies, especially if you grow them yourself-which you can!

It may seem daunting at first, but gardening is a very rewarding hobby. On this page, we'll highlight the basics of vegetable gardening and planning: how to pick the right site for your garden, how to create the right-size garden, and how to select which vegetables to grow.

Pick the Right Location

Picking a good location for your garden is absolutely key. A subpar location can result in subpar veggies! Here are a few tips for choosing a good site:

Sunny spot: Most vegetables need 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. A few veggies (mostly leafy ones) will tolerate some shade.

Drains well and doesn't stay wet: If you have poorly drained soil where water pools, plant veggies in a raised bed or raised row for improved drainage. Wet soil means wet roots, which can turn into rotted roots. If you have rocky soil, till and remove the rocks, as they will interfere with root growth and make for weaker plants.

Stable and not windy: Avoid places that receive strong winds that could knock over your young plants or keep pollinators from doing their job. Nor do you want to plant in a location that receives too much foot traffic or floods easily. Plant in a location that would make Goldilocks smile-somewhere that's "just right."

Nutrient-rich soil. Your soil feeds your plants. You'll have poor, unhealthy plants if you have thin, nutrient-poor soil. Mix in plenty of organic matter to help your plants grow. See how to prepare your soil for vegetable plants.

Choosing a Plot Size: Start Small!

Remember: It's better to be proud of a small garden than be frustrated by a big one!

One of the most common errors that beginners make is planting too much too soon-way more than anybody could ever eat or want! Unless you want to have zucchinis taking up residence in your attic, plan your garden with care. Start small, and only grow what you know you and your family will eat.
Size of Garden

If planting in the ground, a 10' x 10' garden (100 square feet) is a manageable size. Pick 3 to 5 of your favorite vegetables and buy 3 to 5 plants of each one.

If planting in a raised bed, a 4' x 4' or 4' x 8' is a good beginner size. See our Raised Garden Bed Guide, which covers the benefits of raised beds, how to build a raised bed, and what type of soil to fill a raised bed with.

If you want to go bigger, a 12' x 24' garden in the ground is probably the biggest a first-timer should go. For example, a garden that feeds a family of four could include 3 hills of yellow squash, 1 mound of zucchini, 10 assorted peppers, 6 tomato plants, 12 okra plants, a 12-foot row of bush beans, 2 cucumbers on a cage, 2 eggplants, 6 basil, 1 rosemary, and a few low-growing herbs such as oregano, thyme, and marjoram.

Whatever the size of your garden: Every four feet or so, make sure that you have paths that allow you to access your plants to weed and harvest. Just ensure you can reach the center of the row or bed easily without stepping on the soil.

Choosing Vegetables

As a beginner, start by choosing easy vegetables that are also productive. We've listed some of the easiest vegetables for beginners below. Most are best started by seeds planted directly into the soil, unless noted.

However, it would also be wise to contact your state's Cooperative Extension Service to find out what plants grow best in your area. For example, if you live in an area with extremely hot weather, vegetables that prefer cooler temps may struggle.

Top 10 Easiest Vegetables to Grow
( Tip: Click on a veggie's name to see its detailed Growing Guide.)

Mix in flowers such as marigolds -which discourage pests, attract pollinators, and add some color!
Five tips for choosing vegetables:

1. Choose what you (and your family) like to eat. If no one likes Brussels sprouts, don't bother planting them! But if your kids love green beans, put more effort into growing a big crop of beans.

2. Be realistic about how many vegetables your family will eat. Be careful not to overplant, as you will only stretch yourself thin by trying to take care of tons of plants! (Of course, you could always give excess veggies away to friends, family, or the local soup kitchen.)

3. Consider the availability of veggies at your grocery store. Maybe you want to grow tomatillos instead of cabbage or carrots, which are readily available in your area. Also, certain veggies are so far superior when homegrown, it's almost a shame not to consider them (we're thinking of garden lettuce and tomatoes). Also, homegrown herbs are far less expensive than grocery-store herbs.

4. Be prepared to take care of your plants throughout the growing season. Going on a summer vacation? Remember that tomatoes and zucchinis grow strongest in the middle of summer. If you'll be gone for part of the summer, you need someone to look after the crops, or they will suffer. Or, you could just grow cool-season crops such as lettuce, kale, peas, and root veggies during the cooler months of late spring and early fall.

5. Use high-quality seeds. Seed packets are less expensive than individual plants, but if seeds don't germinate, your money-and time-are wasted. A few extra cents spent in spring for that year's seeds will pay off in higher yields at harvest time.

Where and When to Plant

If you are simply growing two or three tomato plants, this process is easy. But if you plan to grow a full garden, you need to consider:

Where will each plant go?

When will each vegetable need to be planted?

Here are a few guidelines for arranging your vegetables:

Not all vegetables are planted at the same time. "Cool-season" vegetables such as lettuce, broccoli, and peas grow in the cooler weather of early spring (and fall). "Warm-season" vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers aren't planted until the soil warms up in late spring and summer.

Plant tall veggies (such as pole beans on a trellis or sweet corn) on the north side of the garden so they don't shade shorter plants. If you do get shade in a part of your garden, save that area for small, cool-season veggies. If shade is unavoidable in parts of your garden, save those areas for cool-season vegetables that appreciate shade as the weather heats up.

Most veggies are annuals (planted each year). If you're planning on growing "perennial" crops such as asparagus, rhubarb, and some herbs, provide permanent locations or beds.

Consider that some crops mature quickly and have a very short harvest period (radishes, bush beans). Other plants, such as tomatoes, take longer to produce, but also produce for longer. These "days to maturity" are typically listed on the seed packet.

Stagger plantings. You don't want to plant all your lettuce seeds at the same time, or all that lettuce will need to be harvested at around the same time! Stagger plantings by a few weeks to keep 'em coming!

When to Plant What

Every region has a different planting time based mainly on the weather, and every vegetable has its temperature preferences, too. See the Almanac's Best Planting Dates -a gardening calendar customized to your local frost dates. Just enter your zip code (or postal code in Canada)!

For specific planting information, see our individual Grow Guides for over 100 popular vegetables, herbs, and fruit. For each crop, we provide specific information about how to plant, grow, and harvest, including watering and fertilizing, and pest control!

A Starter Beginner Garden Plan

To help out beginners, we thought that it may be useful to see a garden design. Here is an example of a starter family garden using the common easy-to-grow vegetables listed above. It also features companion planting (the practice of placing plants that thrive together next to each other).

You'll see that we have given the garden decent-sized paths and mixed in a few herbs and flowers, too. Frankly, if we had grown this garden in our very first year, we would be thrilled! In planning the garden this way, we have made it so much easier for you to succeed with it.

Click here to see the full plant list, number of plants, spacing, and spacing in rows.

Garden Planning Tool

The Old Farmer's Almanac offers an excellent online garden planning tool that makes your garden planning fun and easy. With this tool, draw your garden plan on the computer and drop in your preferred vegetables, and it automatically calculates the proper spacing for each type of crop! This way, you don't waste seeds or crowd your plants. The Garden Planner automatically pulls in the frost dates for your specific location, identifies easy vegetables, and even identifies companion plants. Then you can print out your plan, and the tool reminds you of your seeding and harvesting dates for every vegetable!

Plus, you'll see many free garden plans for inspiration! Over time, you'll see that this tool also provides "crop rotation" so that if you plan a second season, you can properly reposition your plants to avoid pests and disease.

With new gardeners in mind, we offer a FREE week to try the Garden Planner -ample time to plan your first garden.

Any questions or advice about starting your garden? Check out some of the comments below. Many of your questions may have been answered already by our Almanac community, or you are welcome to add your own comment. Happy gardening!

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Vegetable Gardening for Beginners: The Complete Guide

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Our Vegetable Gardening for Beginners Guide summarizes how to start a vegetable garden from scratch, easy vegetables to grow, and when to plant what.