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I’ve chosen to use 032c as a publication idea for COS as their ethics and importance of quality over quantity within their clothes and advertising. I feel like 032c would be a good type of magazine to display work in due to their graphic nature and topics on themes such as diversity, I feel this would fit in. From seeing their online magazine, it’s easy to tell the style and aesthetics of 032c.

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My publication choice will be i-D magazine 

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My publication choice will be i-D magazine 

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I've chosen Vogue as the publication for my final images as I think the composition and actual style of the magazine is very similar as to what I want to achieve. It will also be an exclusively digital publication as my work is mostly produced digitally.

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I am choosing Dazed as my publication because the brand I have chosen is luxury so would feature in a high fashion magazine, however I feel some editorials like Vogue are too traditional and my illustrations would suit a publication with more of an edge. Dazed use a lot of documentary or street photography which suits the theme I am going for, and also uses film photography which fits with the aesthetic I am trying to create in my illustrations.

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I chose Viscose as it is a fashion magazine with a focus on academia and written analysis of fashion and art. My project is based on historical relations and connections between Ireland and India and feel this brand would be a great place to analyse these historical links.

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I-d magazine is the publication I have chosen for my final illustrations , I have chosen I-d due to it holding a similar aesthetic and feel to my illustrations . The target demographic of the illustrations and their youthful feel match that of I-d making it a seamless fit.

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I’m planning on using Harper’s Bazaar as my publication, specifically singapore’s HB because of its show of cultural aspect along with fashion and lifestyle

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https://www.anothermag.com/

Another magazine

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My aim with this project is to continue celebrating black golfer's legacy. The campaign I'm curating will be set on various golf pitches that are different colours starring my original characters that are people of colour enjoying the sport of golf. Each character within the 9 images will have a specific role symbolising the various trials and achievements people of colour have shown within the sport.

With this being my focus I'll be using Eastside Golf's “1961” campaign (Sept. 14, 2023) as my main inspiration.Their campaign brings awareness to the involvement of people of colour in golf in hopes of creating a much more inclusive future for the sport. 1961 was a significant year in golf, the laws against non-white players were finally lifted by the PGA (Professional Golfers Association) allowing other individuals, black golfers, to compete in the sport.

I want to look at the journey towards this liberation and the main voices that have diversified the sport, forerunners like Charlie Sifford, Athena Gibson, and Lee Eldon and current inspirations like Tiger Woods are great voices within the sport that have taken initiative, even after laws were changed by the PGA, in hopes to create an even better environment for people of colour in golf. Alongside these role models, I’d like to create a campaign that pertains to a range of age groups not just an older generation so they too can aspire to be pillars within the sport.

An additional factor that drove me to pursue this idea was because of my social background and the idea that not many people aren’t exposed to certain environments and sports; this is due to classism and racism. When thinking of golf it’s mainly associated with white males within a certain level of power tied to country clubs, polar to an 18-year-old Nigerian black girl living in South London.

My initial visual representation will be through mixed media, I have created various silhouettes of individuals I've seen. I also want to include many primary images and references of my daily environment to try and normalise the transition of the sport from being highly elitist, to much more inclusive and approachable. I mainly want to work analogue with some digital elements. Including road names that I am familiar with and a mixed media background that contains many elements of a golf course. As for my character's design and styling, I have been deliberate with my inclusion of women because there isn't that much representation for them and other underrepresented genders do appear within my cast of characters.

As far as styling goes I derive my inspiration from designers like Thome Browne and Jason Page. The inclusion of plaids and the alternative vibe  found in Jason Pages jumpsuits are highly favoured when I am deciding on the outcome of each character's outfit.

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My initial idea stems from the lack of diversity surrounding the lingerie market with campaigns consistently lacking diversity, in particular varying body shapes and sizes. This is highlighted especially from previous Victoria Secret advertising. Specifically the 2014 ‘Perfect body’ campaign that had a line up of 10 women all of the same thin body shape and with 8 out of the 10 being white women. This only presents the brand as limited to thin, white women. Therefore to combat this discrimination and change the view of feeling confident in underwear for everyone I have chosen to move forward with working with Victoria Secret as my brand. This is to show how easily yet impactful it can be to be inclusive, especially for underwear that is supposedly made to build confidence for an individual.Within my series of illustrations my character line up consists of six friends each with differing body types and races, this is to highlight how bodies should not divide or separate people. The chosen environment is that of a home. This was chosen as within the home that’s where most feel comfortable to be themselves and be free not to cover up their bodies however, to create a more upbeat and energetic atmosphere the illustrations present the girls getting ready to go out. I believe this was the best choice of narrative due to getting ready is a bonding experience between friends as it is such a vulnerable yet relatable experience for many. The exposure of one’s body can be incredibly personal and therefore having the setting be a home with friends over can build a sense of comfort to be free of judgement, something that needs to be pushed to wider society. Normalising this narrative is only the beginning of breaking down the issues of lack of diversity in campaigns. Character styling is also equally important for comfort for differing bodies too as garments need to be made for individuals not the latter, this only emphasises how important inclusivity is to have in the underwear market. To present growing understanding from the brand the styling I have chosen for my characters is almost exclusively from Victoria Secrets current catalogue. This allows the garments to follow and link extremely well to the Victoria Secrets aesthetic of a balance of comfort and sexy lingerie. Being the creator of the characters and their personalities it entwines their personal lifestyle to their personal choice of underwear, again pushing the idea that Victoria Secret is for everyone despite body, race, age, gender expression or lifestyle. This means that the target audience is anyone who wears feminine underwear, due to this target audience being such a large group I have decided to choose my publication platform to be instagram as its accessibility is incredibly easy and non discriminatory unlike high end fashion magazines that create a wall in society for the rich and favoured individuals. My overall aim is to stick close to initial referencing from the brand despite breaking away from the toxic idealisation of thin bodies.

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Through my research, I've noticed that in children's wear, everything is still very gendered. From room decoration to toys and clothing, specific topics and colors are only available to children of the “correct" gender.
I want to research this and raise awareness that diversity is not only for adults but also important in the children's industry.

I'm thinking of building a narrative that reflex how children live in gendered environments natually exploring their true preferences , and how children of different genders don’t care about these social concepts but just enjoy their innocent childhood.

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The genesis of this project lies in the fantastical notions of beauty that occupied my childhood. However, somewhere along the timeline, possibly influenced by the opinions voiced by my family or elders, I gradually became aware that, from a very young age, I was being categorised as an "ugly" child. Be it puffy eyes or misaligned teeth, there was even a time when I resorted to using my fingers to pick at a mole on my nose until the skin broke, letting blood flow, all in a desperate attempt to erase its presence. Exposed to portrayals of princesses in juvenile magazines and televised programs, I found myself detached from the conventional definition of beauty. In the societal context, beauty was synonymous with golden locks, deep eyes, and an immaculate countenance. My insecurities led me to dread the prospect of appearing comical when donning dresses. Beautiful girls, as dictated by societal norms, are supposed to reside in castles or quaint houses, enveloped by blossoming flowers. In contrast, my childhood unfolded within the confines of a cramped apartment building, where I daydreamed about an idealised version of myself. It seemed as if I had resigned myself to the notion that I had forfeited the right to beauty, all because I lacked the hallmark features of sweetness—an absence of long, flowing hair and a pair of charming red shoes.

For my fashion campaign, I conscientiously selected Simone Rocha as the focal brand. The rationale extends beyond the brand's emblematic girlish style; it is anchored in the fact that Simone Rocha herself once called Hong Kong, China, her home, sharing a parallel temporal backdrop with my formative years. In her designs, the dresses adorning young girls transcend the mere symbolism of sweetness; they collide with a plethora of rebellious elements such as suspenders, straw, and nylon. Through her creative expressions, I detect the subversion of traditional images of young girls, almost as if catching a glimpse of my erstwhile self, tinged with a touch of rebellion and tenacity. In the narrow alleys of my youth, I meandered wearing mud-stained sneakers, sporting a mushroom haircut, and carrying wildflowers cradled in a plastic bag—a testament to my penchant for the unconventional.

The mole, which had scabbed over, ultimately did not vanish, but over time, I have come to embrace it as my unique identifier. Through my immersion in the realm of fashion, I have gradually come to comprehend that beauty is an expansive, multifaceted concept that transcends conventional norms and embraces imperfections. With this project, I aspire to communicate to the myriad girls, akin to my former self, who have succumbed to the brainwashing of antiquated beauty propaganda: a girl's beauty is unparalleled—her innate features, rebellious disposition, and audacity to experiment amalgamate to form the most exquisite representation. In essence, it is an assertion that the true essence of beauty lies not in conformity but in the celebration of one's distinctive qualities.

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This Monki campaign named ‘All the feels’, was created in 2018, and it was made to raise awareness the positive and negatives sides of social media, and how it can effect our mental health in todays society. The campaign features three online influencers who are also advocates for mental health. I think this is a great campaign which fits the brands image, because Monki’s target customer are predominantly teens and young adults, and this age group are some of the biggest users of social media. As well as this, teenagers are still young individuals, who can be easily led into the negative depths of social media, so seeing a positive campaign filled with influential young women is refreshing to see.

Although I think this campaign was a good approach for the brand, I definitely feel as though they could have enhanced their video, showing us more of the dark realities to mental health, because this was quite a lighthearted campaign.

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Monki, with support from Mental Health Europe, present: All the feels. A campaign created to raise awareness about the positive and negative effects of social media on our mental health.

Have you ever scrolled through your feed and felt like everyone else's life is much MUCH more interesting than yours?

Felt like you weren't pretty enough, fun enough, smart enough, or just enough? If you breath, think and own a smart phone, the answer is probably yes.

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If you have any questions about this message or any product please contact our Customer Service. We always offer free returns and you have 30 days to decide whether you want to keep your items or not. PS: To make sure that you always get our super offers and exciting news, simply add news@mail.monki.com to your address book! You can always unsubscribe to our newsletters.

Xoxo, the Monki team

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Monki, with support from Mental Health Europe, present: All the feels. A campaign created to raise awareness about the positive and negative effects of social media on our mental health. Have you ever scrolled through your feed and felt like everyone else's life is much MUCH more interesting than yours?

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Monki collaborated with the Body Dysmorphic Disorder Foundation to launch an underwear capsule collection. This campaign really stood out to me because the topic resonates with me and my personal struggles. As well as creating a capsule collection, Monki spoke to three ladies who struggle with BDD, and they shared their stories and the battles they face with the disorder, some even sharing attempts of suicide. I think it was really impressive for the brand to partner with the BDD foundation, as I don’t think this disorder gets enough light and recognition within the fashion industry. The brand is also very transparent with their models, they use no such airbrush tools to hide stretch marks, body hair, birthmarks and more normal body features.

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Star Models, a modelling agency based in Brazil released an ad campaign in 2013, highlighting how much anorexia has its affects on the fashion industry. The ad campaign refers to the unrealistic fashion illustrations we use across the industry, as a typical illustration consists of a stick thin model with very prominent body features, such as an extremely small waist, portruding bones, and little to no body fat, which to most people, isn’t realistic. Although this ad campaign was made with good intentions, I feel as though it can be taken out of context, because next to the illustration is an extremely edited version of a model, which could potentially be harmful to viewers. I do see the positives and negatives which come with this campaign.

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One of the campaigns which really stood out to me was the Victoria Secret ‘Perfect Body’ campaign. This campaign received widespread backlash with thousands of people signing a petition for the brand to make a statement and apologising, as well as removing the campaign altogether. I wanted to include this campaign because this is expressing the exact opposite of what I’d like to represent in campaign illustrations.

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Victoria's Secret is under fire for a new ad campaign that features the slogan "The Perfect 'Body.'"

The slogan, which refers to the retailer's "Body" lingerie line, appears with images of Victoria's Secret angels on the company's website and in stores in the UK.

The ads have prompted a widespread backlash online and inspired the hashtag #iamperfect on Twitter.

"There is a line between aspiration and thinspiration, and this campaign clearly oversteps the mark," columnist Sarah Vine writes in The Daily Mail. "As for their use of the word 'perfect', it's not only offensive to the 99.9% of the female population who don't share the models' 'perfect' proportions, it's also deeply irresponsible, if not downright cruel."

More than 15,000 people have signed a petition calling on Victoria's Secret to apologize and terminate the campaign.

"Victoria's Secret's new advertisements play on women's insecurities and send out a damaging message" the petition says.

We reached out to Victoria's Secret for comment and will update when we hear back.

Here are some of the reactions from Twitter.

The #iamperfect campaign against @VictoriasSecret http://t.co/KJ1z2z9J3t via @brandsynario pic.twitter.com/1eSe79TBf3
- Rida Sadiq (@Ritzaheer) October 31, 2014

#iamperfect @VictoriaSecret Harmful campaign. I am not perfect and I don't expect it either. What a shame!
- Cinthia Novick (@CinthiaNovick) October 31, 2014

Today we celebrate the perfect REAL body and all the women who have said "#IAmPerfect the way I am." #TBT pic.twitter.com/CFD2GfokGE
- Dove (@Dove) October 30, 2014

So the campaign the perfect body obviously promotes low self esteem, anorexia, bulimia, etc. Thanks @victoriasecret #iamperfect
- valepp (@valeborquezzz) October 31, 2014

stop bodyshaming #iamperfect http://t.co/0tv1lRJe25 via @UKChange
- Eustache (@Phelie_b) October 31, 2014

.@VictoriasSecret Apologise for your damaging Perfect Body campaign #iamperfect http://t.co/ZlVLuyo618 via @UKChange
- Pauline P (@Paupietttte) October 31, 2014

@VictoriasSecret #shameful #campaign #iamperfect! Really? I think its time for a #womansrights refresher course.
- Chantal Fry - Glisse (@chantaldebisous) October 31, 2014

There is NO SUCH THING as a 'perfect body!' @VictoriasSecret. Please, stop spreading this myth! #iamperfect pic.twitter.com/jz1Aconfym
- Jazzy J (@Jazz2J) October 31, 2014

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Victoria's Secret Sparks Outrage With 'Perfect Body' Campaign

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Victoria's Secret is under fire for a new ad campaign that features the slogan "The Perfect 'Body.'" The slogan, which refers to the retailer's "Body" lingerie line, appears with images of Victoria's Secret angels on the company's website and in stores in the UK.

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In 2022, fast fashion brand Boohoo partnered with the Brain Coach to create a campaign for mental health awareness week. I think the brand had good intentions with this campaign, however I think it’s quite hypocritical considering the controversy surrounding Boohoo and its working conditions in their factories across the world. Investigations made in the past few years show that Boohoo has failed to pay Pakistani factory workers fair wages, with some working 24 hour shifts. Not only is this going to take a toll on your physical health, but mental health too.

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Fast fashion e-tailer Boohoo has announced it will be collaborating with neuropsychologist The Brain Coach on a new campaign that aims to empower customers through a seven day "self-love" plan.

Set in time for Mental Health Awareness Week, the Body Image Cleanse campaign hopes to increase customer confidence through the promotion of habit-forming steps.

The seven day plan, which can be followed through The Brain Coach and Boohoo's platforms, will run alongside an influencer campaign tasking social media stars to undertake the challenge and encourage their audience to do so too.

The campaign follows a recent poll carried out by the retailer, which found a substantial 70 percent of its customers said they disliked their bodies.

"It is really important to us at boohoo that we use our platform for purposeful and positive change," said El Chetcuti, head of brand project, in a statement. "Therefore, it felt like a really good time to work on this campaign with the amazing Brain Coach -- especially during Mental Health Awareness Week."

Chetcuti continued: "We look forward to hearing more from our community on how they felt the plan has supported them, and hopefully, it will be something that makes a lasting change for many people. Watch this space."

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Boohoo partners with The Brain Coach for Mental Health Awareness Week

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Fast fashion e-tailer Boohoo has announced it will be collaborating with neuropsychologist The Brain Coach on a new campaign that aims to empower customers

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Lazy Oaf teamed up with campaign Time to Change to create a limited edition unisex capsule collection with named ‘Its OK not to be OK’ for mental health awareness week. What I found great about this collaboration is the fact Lazy Oaf set out to donate 100% off the profits from the collection to the charities Mind, and Rethink Mental Illness. You can really see the brands dedication to this subject, due to fact they have donated all their profits. Just like the Monki campaign, I think the brand would have benefited if they showed a deeper side to mental illness, as this campaign just gave us a few slogans and a small collection.

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It's OK to not be OK - Lazy Oaf x Time to Change

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It's OK to not be OK - Lazy Oaf x Time to Change

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It's OK to not be OK - Lazy Oaf x Time to Change You must be logged in before you can use the wishlist! Return any item, or exchange for a different size within 60 days of receipt. Simply fill in the returns form and post item back to us.

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Within my fashion story I have decided to explore diversity through the everyday person, how individuals perceive themselves and express and display their personality to the world. This is true diversity, as the people you see everyday on the street are true to life and not how the media shows what diversity should be. I am exploring this theme through the brand COS as their clothes are made to look high fashion but at an affordable price that is more accessible to the general public. I found through researching the brands campaigns and clothes they lack diversity through their models, whilst I appreciate their use of androgyny and interesting faces, the body is reflective of a stereotypical model, which does not reflect the average consumer. The storyline I want to show is about a group of friends, showing work and home life and their day in the life as this is based on regular people and their routines and niches that make them unique and individual. The setting IÕve chosen is East London, as this is where IÕm living I have found lots of inspiration from people I see in everyday life and feel these characters would fit with the setting and architecture of this area, especially social settings like outdoors with pubs and streets with old Victorian houses. The old classic angular structures of these buildings reflects the look of COS.Ê

Throughout this fashion story colour will be an important factor with a limited colour palette of few bold colours as this is something IÕve found common within COSÕs clothes and marketing. This adds a sense of coherency between all the images and compositions. The colours being clean and rich adds to bold and angular shapes within my compositions.Ê

Although, the look of COS is clean it does not reflect real life as life is emotional, messy and a journey. This is an element of juxtaposition I will explore within my fashion story. Cos uses stereotypical models which donÕt reflect the looks of everyday people, I want to show more representation as the clothes are made to be worn by everyday people especially for work environment. This will be expressed through motifs in the characters, whether it be hair, makeup clothes or accessories. In particular the makeup being unique and expressive with typically one to two features that define the look. Bleach brown, bold lip or eye adds a sleek but interesting effect. Reflecting the use of motifs within the colour palettes used within cos clothes and marketing. The COS quilted bag is an example of one of their universal pieces as itÕs got a high fashion look but is affordable.

Using these base pieces to create individuality for each character as the pieces are interesting especially creating clean and layered shapes. This shows elements of the characters personalities.

Within my process of developing this fashion story IÕve been particularly inspired by the silhouettes and styling workshops as this helped to create depth and meaning to each of my characters. I want them to all have a unique part of their appearance whether it be hair, makeup or face as this is how people express themselves. Niche elements creates a universal experience as everyone seeks individuality within such a large city like London where this is set. Observing people in the real world has helped to develop my characters seeing people go about their everyday tasks outside.

For my fashion story my chosen mediums will be brush pens and watercolour. I decided to use these analog materials as it creates the most expressive lines whilst also having an ability to create bold shapes and layers.

Artists IÕve been inspired by within my research are Juergen Teller and Cecilia Carlstedt. Teller shows interesting domestic settings which leave the viewer questioning. This is something I want to be expressed within my work. Carlstedts use of colour and composition is of particular interest as her use of movement and simplicity lines create an elegant look. This is relevant to how COS uses line and colour. I will also take this forward within my experimentation.

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For my campaign research I aim to investigate the relationship between different expressions of femininity and various age groups, backgrounds and lifestyles. Given that this exploration is partly rooted in my own experiences as a Chinese individual, I intend to highlight these cultural cues within the broader narrative through the setting, mannerisms and dress.

I chose the theme of femininity because I as a female individual don’t express it the way that it is conventionally expected. There are other girls like me who have also faced others joking about our gender identity because of the way we dress and present ourselves. I think it is important to show that a woman who dresses different to the “norms” is still a woman, because we are not solely defined on how we look.

Looking into more asian artists, I have found that Lea Woo’s art style and techniques would suit my subject of interests. She uses textures that are found in traditional east asian silk screen paintings and this really adds a cultural flair to what she makes. The subjects of these illustrations are also very obviously east asian girls, which she uses to accentuate their beauty through elegant poses, backgrounds, fashion and flowers. I think that this is a very beautiful way of representing east asian girls which makes them confident, beautiful and appreciated as art. I would like to explore east asian art styles for my images.

Although I have researched Basic Pleasure Mode to be my chosen brand, I wanted to explore more specifically Chinese brands for my character model. Because I want to represent Chinese individuals, I feel it is essential for the clothing to have Chinese elements that makes its origins clear.

Ao Yes is an independent fashion brand that incorporates the silhouettes, cuts and patterns of traditional Chinese garment into their clothing designs. Mixed with contemporary styling, they create unique looks that also pay tribute to their roots and inspiration. I think this is a very suitable brand for my idea as it represents Chinese fashion well but is also versatile enough for me to style onto my characters.

For the composition of my illustration series I am envisioning snippets from within a coffee shop where people of different backgrounds and ages gather. I think this is an organic approach to include such a wide range of people, and there’s a lot of potential with the overall aesthetic and themes of the pieces.

To further cultivate a sense of community, I am drawing inspiration from Kopitiams when designing the setting of my campaign images. Kopitiams are coffee houses that serve Malay of Chinese food seen across South-east Asia and are often places where locals gather to chat and eat for leisure.

Alternatively, I could show locations that are exclusive to asia/china, and not just coffee stops by themselves. This gives a more overall view but in turn shows more range in the beauty of these countries.

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I have researched on the Wallpaper magazine China edition and traditional Chinese minority clothing as a start. However, it turned out that my research may not be as diverse as what I should be looking for. Therefore, I restarted my research.
This time I am looking for brands or designers that create work that include Chinese cultural elements.
Guo Pei, a Chinese fashion designer and her own brand with the same name. She is the first Chinese fashion designer who was invited by the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion. She created a series of work, “Courtyard”, “Legend of The Dragon”, “East Palace” etc. These works have combined typical western Haute Couture and traditional Chinese clothing elements, for example Chinese embroidery, symbols, images and colours. Which is a very significant move of Chinese clothing to the international market. Her achievements are impressive.
However, some are having different opinions about her work. The way she merges Chinese culture and haute couture together is usually using typical western cutting and forms of dresses, then adding Chinese cultural decorations, patterns or colours. In my view, this is a very nice way to start introducing Chinese clothing to the world market, which is also a chance for traditional clothing to start evolving into a new generation, just like how it was developing in the history. But some are claiming that Guo Pei is appropriating her own culture, there are always a few comments such as “She creates western dresses for western market by using Chinese cultural elements,” occurring under articles and videos about her or her work. Naturally, there are people having opposite voices argue against them, by reading through their arguments, I observed things that is interesting and inspired my fashion story.
People who have negative comments think Guo Pei’s way to create her work do not include the important core of Chinese clothing, which are the cuttings, meanings, and stories behind those special designs. However, the ones who are having different opinions say Guo Pei’s works are combinations of Chinese culture and western fashion, she is trying to be diverse and promote Chinese culture. Also, clothing based on different cultures influencing each other was always happening during the time, not just Chinese clothing, this happens to every culture, and it is very normal. The most important thing is, Guo Pei always make it very clear for her audiences that those are Chinese elements, she never claims that they are completely her own designs, or they are token from others culture.
I found that the experience, or the path of Guo Pei trying to be diverse with Chinese culture and western fashion very meaningful. This is kind of an epitome of what will happen when something that is very traditional started to be diverse. Being diverse is somehow an action that breaks rules, there will always be people disagree with it.
However, I am the ones that support this kind of diversity, like what Guo Pei is doing. In my fashion story, there will be a main character who is a personification of traditional Chinese clothing. The story may start from her beginning to change to a new form, like Guo Pei’s designs, then what she experienced, what challenges she was facing, how negative opinions or positive support affected her. At the end, although it has not happened in real life yet, I would like to have a happy ending for this story, which may be she is completely accepted and successfully make that step of Chinese clothing’s development.

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I was born in Brazil, a very diverse country. Brazil is made up of black, indigenous, and white people due to its colonization, but nowadays with globalization, immigration, and miscegenation, the Brazilian people have become even more of a bricolage of cultures.

The brand I'm going to associate with my characters is Farm Rio, a brand that inspires me in terms of style, social and environmental responsibility, and international recognition. Despite the difficulties of competing with fast fashion brands that have lower prices or credibility in the foreign market for having extravagant prints highlighting the imagination, nature, and beauty of Brazil, Farm stands out precisely for what sets it apart from other brands.

My idea is to bring to life women who have songs written about them and, from this, to show the diversity of the beauty of Brazilian women and the culture that surrounds them.

The fact that Brazil is a miscegenated country brings such a cultural and symbolic load that I couldn't choose another type of diversity to study, mainly because of the lack of representation of real Brazilian women without fetishising or stereotyping.

My fashion story shows each of the women coming from a different part of Brazil meeting at Rio de Janeiro airport where all flights are delayed. After waiting for hours and hours Gabriela, the oldest of the characters, talks to Yemanjá. Yemanjá is a female orixá (African deity) of the Candomblé and Umbanda religions. Her name comes from the Yoruba language term "Yèyé omo ejá", which means "mother whose children are like fish".

One of the legends says that she was the mother of all the Orixás and I wanted exactly this maternal, confident, and independent energy to guide these other women. After talking for a while, they decide to leave everything behind and head for the beach and when they get under the sea there is that peace and calm, the silence is as if the outside world that oppresses them so much didn't exist.

I've been an atheist all my life and when I went through difficult times my parents took me to the Terreiro. Over time, my faith in the orishas became something pure that governs my life. So my fashion story also has this personal symbolism, of my journey in search of peace, harmony, and calm, the feeling we get when we're underwater and can't even think about the outside world is what I feel when I'm in contact with them.

In or out of Yoruba mythology I'd like to celebrate sorority and girlhood. To do this, as well as being inspired by Farm's campaigns, I was inspired by the film Barbie (2023), which incredibly shows diversity without it seeming forced, diversity for diversity's sake, just because of the fear of cancellation. It also has incredible scenes that emphasise the importance of unity between women and their strength when together.

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Moodboard with my own drawings

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I want to tackle ageism in women’s fashion, specifically regarding the representation of middle-aged women. I very rarely see women in the 40-60 age range presented as conventionally attractive in media unless they are celebrities who are made up to look far younger than they really do. This sort of imagery combined with the push of anti-aging solutions promotes the idea that signs of aging are shameful, discouraging older women from engaging in with fashion in the same way. They are expected to dress in a mundane, conservative fashion or to adopt a quirky ‘cat lady’ style of expression. They are not given the opportunity to engage with trends or glamour in a way that makes the average woman feel beautiful and comfortable at the same time.

I find that men in this age range are more often presented as they are and are shown to be attractive, while women are made to cover their grey hairs and wrinkles. Fashion excludes the genuine appearance of middle aged women’s beauty and I can see the affect it has had on several of my friends’ and family members’ self-image and subsequent ways of dressing.

In this project, I want to research into how women around the ages of 40-60 can be represented in fashion in order to make an audience of similar women feel beautiful and comfortable. It should be done in a way that accommodates women who feel pressured to ‘dress their age’, so that they may express themselves without feeling self-conscious.

To achieve this, I will show women in this demographic styled to suit their individual desires, enjoying nightlife as free spirits. By presenting them in the same way as younger models are shown in media, it shows how age is not a determining factor of beauty.

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Alice, a girl from a traditional Chinese family, likes to wear sunglasses because she has a "color vision deficit," which is often referred to as "color blindness." She sees the world in different colors than normal people. It also makes her suffer from external language violence since childhood, those people are like clowns living under a mask, they feel that they are normal people living in the environment will not be hurt, so they constantly hurt the unique Alice, But this does not affect her love of painting and optimistic life, in an environment full of traditional expectations and fixed norms, she dare to pursue her inner voice, because her mother loves her and supports her. Although her mother was also born in a very traditional family but also love fashion avant-garde clothing, but under the pressure of real life, she was forced to give up their favorite fashion and personality, but her mother wanted Alice to be herself. She is always dressed as her unique soul. She has a penchant for Balenciaga's loose-fitting, quirky outfits and exaggerated sunglasses, which are at odds with the traditional outfits of Chinese girls her age. But in the face of family blame, she would rather be herself, choose to wear those clothes she wanted. At school, she always presents her own unique ideas on paper, especially because the painting "Apple" shows different colors from her classmates. But this often led to her getting low grades in class, and her classmates talking about her differences, some even tearing her work to pieces. The injuries caused her pain, but the moment she chose to leave school did not change her insistence on herself. She still has the shredded paintings restored and pasted on the walls of her room as a memorial to her persistence and courage. Alice is not alone, however, as she has two special friends, Mibe and Kiwi. They weren't just Alice's friends, they were an inspiration and support in her life. Mibe is a dream person who always sees the world through her unique eyes, and her creativity and courage make Alice feel great. Kiwiis, on the other hand, is a danger maker, always full of energy and upbeat, and her undaunty spirit and love of life become an inspiration to Alice. The three of them form a special small team. With each other's support and encouragement, they dare to break the tradition and be themselves bravely. It's like three stars that shine together. Instead of being mocked for her persistence and uniqueness, she has become an inspiring role model. Her work becomes an inspiration, encouraging everyone to be brave enough to be themselves and to embrace their differences and those of others, because it is this diversity that makes for a better and richer world. To Alice, they were like the one and only shining fruit among the Apples. It's not just apples, either, because "Apple" can be seen as a symbol of diversity between the individual and the group. Just as the variety of Apples makes up the diversity of an orchard, the diversity of an individual enriches the diversity and values of a group or society. It represents the concept of accepting and appreciating each person's unique qualities and contributions. Finally, with her persistence, the miracle happened, Alice's painting into a real Apple, the magic is out of the gorgeous flowers, it does not need to absorb nutrition through the roots of the tree, Also do not need the protection of branches and leaves, but the independence of the small apple in the handle out of flowers, seemingly impossible to become possible, absurd but special, life is the same everyone is not the same individual, "Apple" symbolizes the persistence and uniqueness of the beautiful results.

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Sita is not only an artificial limbs designer, but also a “life fighter” who loss of a leg in childhood accident. Sita lost her leg in a childhood accident, and after that she had to rely on a false leg to walk normally, but that didn't make Sita lose her passion for life. Sita has had a strong interest in fashion and design since childhood. Although the loss of her leg made her life extraordinary, she was not broken. Instead, she saw the problem from a fresh perspective, turning prosthetic design not just as a simple aid, but as a unique fashion art. She designed sci-fi and fashionable prosthetic limbs to match different kinds of fashion, and opened her own prosthetic design shop with her own efforts, together with Lighting, a therapy cat, who comforts the injured, Sita designs fashionable prostheses for disabled people , and helps them start a new life. Because of the frequent need to go to disaster relief, Sita created the robot Ritchie. One day, an earthquake shook the town, wreaking havoc on the community. In the disaster, Sit a, Ritchie, and Lighting quickly went to the rescue. It was at this time that they met the trapped model, Tawanna. The earthquake took Tawanna's arms and transformed her from a confident and dynamic model into a lost soul. But under the guidance of Lighting and Ritchie, Tawanna gradually came out of the shadow. Sita has brought new hope to Tawanna by designing new, fashion arms and ornately designed wing. And under the comfort of the therapy cat Lighting, Tawanna Get up again, Began to work hard to become an online model, through the network, she regained confidence, with their own stories to infect more people, through the network and people in need of help to get in touch, and Sita , Tawanna , Ritchie , Lingting they go to help more disabled people, encourage them to find their own unique beauty.

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I want to study the theme of gender beauty, I think gender can not be a framework and boundary. In my research, Givenchy is very consistent with this point, and they do not deliberately concave curves in the design of the form. And then i try to draw and find the impact of shape on the body，and how to show the beauty of muscles. Also I wanted to make the outermost layer by using curved and curved decorative design to hide the original curves of the body. In order to further understand the brand, I conducted further research on Givenchy and Hubert de Givenchy. Givenchy is a romantic and free brand The brand logo represents classical (Genteel), elegant (Crace) pleasure (Gaiety), GIVENCHY (GIVENCHY) its logo is a deformation of the 4 "G" letter and the black character Givenchy auspicious, This is also the spirit given by the brand when it was founded. They have founded "Studio Givenchy" in 1952. From 1953 to the 1990s, the "Shidelie Hemu" style evening dress. It has always been the symbol and symbol of Givenchy clothing. Then in 1952, he presented his first solo exhibition in Paris, mainly in white cotton. His creative talent wowed those present in the fashion show, which featured elegant embroidery and beautiful beading. At the same time, it also established Givenchy's revered image in the fashion industry. Givenchy's first haute couture collection was called "Bettina Graziami" after the most famous model in Paris at the time. Simple organa top with cotton pleated skirt, fresh and clear. Also Hubert is a eminent designer，Together with his Muse Hepburn, he made many elegant clothes. He showed artistic talent at a young age, and successfully enrolled in the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris, where he studied in houses such as the Scarpali fashion house, which gave him the skills of haute couture. In 11952, he founded the eponymous fashion house Givenchy in Paris. Heavily influenced by the founder of Balenciaga, Givenchy's designs combine modern taste, French elegance and breakthrough innovation. Finally is my Character design，there name is kiki，Eva and Adam. Kiki is a cool girl，she like simple waer and tooling cloth. Eva like pay attention to exaggerated version and short style collection，she prefer irregular wear and colorful clothes more. Adam like exaggerated version and heavy metal accession.

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LV brand image design focuses on high quality and classic design, with core values including inheritance, elegance, innovation, and nobility. It is committed to providing high-end consumers with high-end customized, luxurious, and elegant products and services. Its business philosophy is to always pursue excellence and continuous innovation, while the brand logo design creativity conveys a simple, elegant, and noble image.At the same time, LV's brand image is the art of travel, as its main positioning lies in a low-key luxury yet comfortable and convenient travel lifestyle. This can be clearly seen from its official runway image

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Victoria's Secret is the largest chain of women's ready to wear retail stores in the United States, mainly engaged in lingerie and swimwear, and its annual fashion show "Victoria's Secret Fashion Show" is also one of the most popular fashion shows in the world.This brand essence： Support women and their most important career. Brand value: Confidence, inspiration, comfort, and happiness.Brand characteristics:Feminine, confident, emotional, sexy, inclusive, and mischievous. During the mid-term of brand development, the annual Victoria's Secret lingerie fashion show and advertisement attracted the attention of the world, setting a new record for fashion shows and lingerie sales. Successfully making "Victoria" a synonym for expressing women's confidence, sexiness, and fashion, in a sense, "Victoria" is something that other lingerie brands cannot imitate and surpass.

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I noticed a very interesting phenomenon when girls grow up， lots of them go through a period in which they deny their female identity and are afraid of feminine qualities. Such as they refuse to wear dresses or have anything pink.
Before these happen, when they are still toddlers, girls are quite likely to enjoy the gender roles they were given and attached to things they have such as glitter, pink clothes, bows and "princess" titles.
I find this process of kids learning, discovering and accepting their identity very interesting, It reflects the influence of societal expectations, peer pressure, and the natural process of self-discovery.

There are already a lot of adult fashion brands that have neutral gender products to try to break through the stereotypes. But clothes for kids are still showing strong gender roles on it. I think it's a healthier and more comfortable way for them If they are allowed to discover themselves in a more inclusive and supportive environment.  We should provide more gender-neutral options for kids for children to explore their identity without feeling constrained by societal norms.

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From my research, I found myself is interested in topics about my own culture and also how designers are making work or images about it. I may want to go deeper in these two areas, which are the fashion related to Chinese culture and fashion image making or presenting.

I would also like to include my opinions on certain campaigns and how would I present the same idea by remaking or redesigning work from that campaign, along with some other features I learnt from my research.

I would need to identify something I like and dislike from my selected campaign, and probably do some visual response to it. The I should research for other campaigns that are doing something similar or the same but in different way (probably the ones I found it does better)

Evaluations from others about the selected campaign may also be helpful, especially when considering if the campaign is diversity or not.

On the other hand, I will need to research more about Chinese fashion as the base of further development in my work. Maybe narrow it down to a specific time period, location, or Chinese minority.

Some primary research I could do may be show the selected campaign to others and directly ask for their thoughts. Also going to museums or exhibitions that included some related clothing and review on them.

Artist: not yet

Materials: digital, canvas, Chinese Xuan paper, cloth

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After looking at the campaigns I researched to start this project, the Gucci Love Parade campaign, 2022, stuck out for me. The campaign presented lots of diverse relationships. I think that looking at multiple diverse relationships with in the same campaign is a new idea that hasn’t been explored much in fashion campaigns and is what I’m starting off to research for my campaign.

When thinking about relationships I wanted to explore more than just romantic relationships, I want to also look at relationships between friends, family, people you work with and go to school with, and also relationships in a community. This sense of relationships in a community instantly draws me to my own background, growing up in a small town in England and also the small village my mother's family is from in Slovakia. During this project I want to explore these different types of community relationships and how cultural and historic influences shaped them. However for my project, I want to go further and experiment with ideas to capture my own village with a more diverse and multi cultural relationships that you don’t tend to see in such villages.

A photographer  that comes to mind for my project is the fashion photographer, Callum Walker Hutchinson. His photo series ‘Candyland’ explores creating characters based on people he’s met in Los Angeles. I think the way he has used characters to embody Los Angeles is something I can take inspiration from when create the character and relationships I envision for my village. I want to use images of the farms, pubs, mountains and interiors I have already taken of family’s home town, Malinova in central Slovakia. To create the homely feel of a small village, for this project I want to explore using analogue materials like paint, coloured pencils and collage.

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The conflict between traditional concepts and modern fashion in Chinese society

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The conflict between traditional concepts and modern fashion in Chinese society

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There have been times I tried to put some fashion into my daily outfit, like matching a hoodie with a short, I always get a lot of critical comments from my family, they think everyone should follow the "dress code" in their mind otherwise you must have some problems. The older generations in Chinese society are not very inclusive of fashion. They are unlikely to accept things that are too "fashion" not to mention dressing in something that is up against your gender role. High school students are not allowed to put effort into their appearance, such as nails, make-up and hair styling are all forbidden. My sister's hair is naturally curly and her school told her to straighten it up because curly hair causes "bad influences" on other students. I find it ridiculous that they can't accept her natural way and force her to fit into their standard.

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Name: Carolina

Age: 35

Sex: Female

Place of birth: Pará, Alter do Chão

Ethnicity: Afro-brazilian

Occupation: works with tourists who come to Alter do Chão

Height: 1,55cm

Body type/shape: skinny

Favourite time of day: Sunset

Favourite weather conditions: Sunny but windy weather

Song: Modinha pra Gabriela- Gal Costa

Intelligent, sensual, with a beautiful walk, a sparkle in her eye, an adolescent manner, she loves everything that comes from nature, animals, the sea, fresh fruit and the world seen up close.

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Name: Clarice

Age: 19

Sex: Female

Place of birth: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Ethnicity: Brazilian

Occupation: Artist-Singer

Height: 1,68cm

Positive personality traits: passionate about what she does, creative, imaginative, big dreamer

Negative personality traits: Insecure about her worth

What are they wearing? Describe how they walk: walks around smiling with an empty head

Describe poses: seated with her guitar, listening to music

Favourite time of day: Morning

Favourite weather conditions: Sunny

Sleeping habits: try to sleep early but end up having too many thoughts

Fears: being mediocre in art

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Name: Natasha

Age: 17

Sex: Female

Place of birth: Rio Pomba - Minas Gerais

Song: Natasha- Capital Inicial

Natasha ran away from home at 17 wearing a black skirt and high heels, she had tattoos all over her body, even her neck, and dyed her hair green.

She was tired and had no prospects in the small country town she lived in and decided to live life day by day in the big city. She stole cars for fun and money, but what she really liked to do was dance and have fun, smoke, drink and enjoy her youth as freely as possible.

She's incredibly private, her old name was Ana Paula but everyone knows her as Natasha, nobody knows how she lives, supports herself or what she wants out of life but that's her business.

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The area I wish to focus on is Indian and Irish cultures and celebrating both the similarities and differences between the two. I would like to create a wedding scene, as Indian weddings are a place where they truly get to celebrate and show their culture’s beauty; a trait they share with Irish weddings. I want this work to be joyous and bright and to highlight the beauty of these two cultures which have both faced British Occupation and oppression but have persevered and not allowed that to dull their light. I intend to research specific practises within Hindu weddings, both online and by interviewing family members. I also wish to research symbolism within Indian art and culture. I definitely feel this is a culture that is lacking representation in fashion unless it is a brand explicitly made by and for said people. However, parts may be taken without clear respect and credit provided. I wish for my costuming to primarily highlight Indian garments, taking influence from Rahul Mishra specifically. But I also wish to represent Irish style too within certain characters. My intention for the setting at the moment is an Irish pub, with characters dancing to live traditional Irish music. These are not things I need to research too deeply as it’s the culture I’ve been raised with however, during my time at home I wish to pay more attention to certain motifs and characteristic which will make it clear for people not of the culture.

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In 10 fashion surveys, I found there's room for further development in body diversity, especially in embracing people with disabilities due to congenital factors or illnesses. The fashion industry should be more tolerate of individuals with disabilities.
The story I chose to create is about a artificial limb (Sita). Sita lost a leg in a childhood accident， after that she had to rely on a prosthetic leg to walk properly. However, this hasn't dampened Sita's zest for life. She designs futuristic and stylish prosthetics to match the different kinds of fashion. Through her efforts, she establishes her own prosthetic store. Utilizing online outreach, she assists people worldwide in need of special prosthetics, helping them fulfill their fashion dreams.

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The Chromate Spring 2018 “serenity” ready-to-wear collection:

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The Chromate Spring 2018 “serenity” ready-to-wear collection:

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This collection aimed to promote body positivity and bring more confidence around wearing a swimsuit regardless of body type. Within chromats collection of looks viewers can see that they have stayed true to their aim. There is a diverse cast of models that are of different ethnicities, body types, and ages. What stands out to me is the brand's use of vibrant colours on their pieces each model is presented with a sense of freedom within their bodies this is important in reaching their target audience as it influences those who may be insecure about their appearances that they can also reach that level of confidence with role models to look up to. Chromat made its debut during New York Fashion Week and is celebrated as an empowering brand they have always made a commitment to promote inclusivity and this continues to reflect within their serenity collection. I feel that they are a brand that wants to shift the previous narrative of what is considered desirable and from my point of view, there isn't any front in their marketing.

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Gypsy Sports Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection:

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Gypsy Sports Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection:

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The collection stars a diverse cast of models including trans activist Munroe Bergdorf and Desmond is amazing, a 10-year-old self-acclaimed “kinder drag star”. The representation of transgender models on a runway is the highlighted theme in the collection, with an attempt to create a safe space for self-expression and body positivity. The brand's effort to seek out representatives of the trans community shows the amount of commitment to their authenticity. As we continue to progress as a society there has been an increase in representation across multiple communities and when looking at the Gypsy collection they achieved to show their support for the trans community just by the simple act of inclusion. I feel like this is reflected in the pieces which can be described as revealing and provocative in an attempt to not hide the body’s “imperfections”. The way each model intentionally is dressed in clothing that rejects the gender normative way of dress also increases the intensity of the message they are trying to send across to their audience.

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 Difrntpigeon (different pigeon) pride collection

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 Difrntpigeon (different pigeon) pride collection

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“a lifestyle brand run by Portland's marginalised youth” they aimed to create fashion items that are inspired by unique individual experiences. They launched a collection that celebrates and explores the beautiful imperfections of underrepresented body types in the media. Seen in the collections visuals they have successfully made an effort to be much more inclusive with body types and race. Each model can be seen wearing a leotard regardless of gender. Many of the symbols printed on the leotard represent BLM, Mental health awareness, the international symbol of access, and gender-neutral symbols. From my point of view, I think the collection has very positive intentions, but there are a few points of criticism I'd like to include for example the brand's general theme is inclusivity but in the visuals, there isn't a lot of variation in the model casting gender-wise with only one male being represented in the collection this could have happened for a multitude of reasons but it can also be seen as a token male used to tick off the criteria of inclusivity.

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The show takes place in 2016 and is named The Road Ahead aimed to be presented as a “geography bit” showing and representing fashion on a global scale. with somewhat innocent intentions the show was tone-deaf in how it would've been perceived by certain cultures. The use of traditional Chinese prints on clothing, creatures sacred to Chinese cultures used as accessories, and the plain disregard for the importance of traditional wear by pairing it with lingerie attire is plain cultural appropriation. I don't think it would've been much of a problem to have models that were from the countries represented respectfully. Victoria's Secret is no stranger to these accusations with them having an array of problematic and offending runway shows for example their 2012 circus-themed show where the models can be seen wearing feathered headdresses that are native to indigenous Americans. With this in mind, the intentions of Victoria's Secret have to be questioned on why they seem to always upset their audiences, I think this is down to laziness and not wanting to do in-depth research about the cultures they want to “represent”.

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I want to tackle ageism in women’s fashion, specifically regarding the representation of middle-aged women. I very rarely see women in the 40-60 age range presented as conventionally attractive in media unless they are celebrities who are made up to look far younger than they really do. This sort of imagery combined with the push of anti-aging solutions promotes the idea that signs of aging are shameful, discouraging older women from engaging in with fashion in the same way. They are expected to dress in a mundane, conservative fashion or to adopt a quirky ‘cat lady’ style of expression. They are not given the opportunity to engage with trends or glamour in a way that makes the average woman feel beautiful and comfortable at the same time.

I find that men in this age range are more often presented as they are and are shown to be attractive, while women are made to cover their grey hairs and wrinkles. Fashion excludes the genuine appearance of middle aged women’s beauty and I can see the affect it has had on several of my friends’ and family members’ self-image and subsequent ways of dressing.

In this project, I want to research into how women around the ages of 40-60 can be represented in fashion in order to make an audience of similar women feel beautiful and comfortable. It should be done in a way that accommodates women who feel pressured to ‘dress their age’, so that they may express themselves without feeling self-conscious.

My initial idea is to show women in this demographic through a series of both mundane tasks and exciting activities, always dressed glamorously and maybe extravagantly too.

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Upon researching the theme of diversity I have found particular interest in how true diversity is the people you see in real life when you go outside, unfiltered and raw, without the media portraying diversity where it can seem more performative or false with beauty standards presenting Eurocentric features as the ideal. Living in Hackney, the culture and types of people you see even when leaving the house are very diverse and different. The sense of personality and style with individuals in this area is prominent which has led me to explore authenticity and individuality within diversity. This also links to routines and habits that make peoples lives their own. I have begun documenting this and would like to make a character based off this then exploring true diversity through the authenticity. This can tell a storyline of the person and their life through the series of illustrations I will complete.

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From my research I feel there is still a lot to be done in terms of body diversity in fashion campaigns. I would like to research this and recreate a campaign that is more inclusive and diverse.

I’m thinking about creating a fashion story about girl friends on a summer holiday. I think they’re maybe in their late teens or early twenties, and it takes place on the Italian coast. I think fashion campaigns have a massive impact on young women, especially in preteen and early teenage years, as they look at these campaigns as something to aspire to and it shapes the way they feel about themselves and their bodies. I remember looking at campaigns for summer collections of gorgeous models in exotic locations and feeling like I couldn’t relate to that or that it was something I could never achieve. I want to recreate one of these campaigns to include a diverse group of young women, who perhaps have grown up reading fashion magazines and aspiring to be the perfect models, and are now celebrating their own bodies as they are. I’m thinking of basing the story in the Italian coast as it is a romanticised, luxury location that is often frequented by models and celebrities and I feel that the colours and architecture would give the hot summer feeling I’m going for. I also think this could add in some perspective about what was considered the “ideal” body in ancient Roman times and how this has changed over the years. I’m wanting to research more in to the pressure that is put on young women and their bodies and why this is important in the context of diversity.

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representation - I need to look at current Club scene fashion,(especially in regards to non-binary people). I should look at the Instagram profiles of current rave-wear designers as well as explore London at night and take observational sketches and photographs of outfits that inspire me and how their setting of the urban environment contributes to the aesthetic of the clubwear look.

Character and styling- I'm lucky enough to have friends who fit the description of the character I described, (gender non-conforming and heavily involved in the London club scene). For styling reference I'm going to document via photos and observational sketches of their night-time looks, in order to have a diverse range of references of the looks my character could start in and then finish in.

Location - I need to visit a range of club venues and social night spaces in order to gather an idea of the colour and lighting I want for my characters to be evolving in and be inspired by

Artists- For this project, I feel that I could be heavily inspired by the London drag scene to incorporate that hyper-feminine energy in nightlife spaces. Looking at drag performers such as Dakota Schiffer, Black Peppa, Violet Chachki, and Gottmik as artist inspirations for my character's styling could be useful.

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In response to my research into diversity, I will be delving deeper into the subject of androgyny, transgender representation, and the demonization in the fashion of hyper-feminity in regard to people who do not identify as female. When looking into campaigns to find collections based around this sense of androgyny and how feminine energy is presented through non-gender-conforming models/clothing, it was clear that many campaigns use a diverse range of gender-non-conforming models. Still, hardly any actually design their collections based around this idea of this super traditionally feminine look without the models being people that actually identify as female. This is a gap that I could fill with my project's illustrations.

In response to this, I am hoping to illustrate the narrative of a young non-binary person who comes to discover the freedom they experience in wearing hyper-feminine fashion after being influenced by the fashion of the London club/rave scene after moving to the city for the first time.

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For my diversity research I have decided to focus on different expressions of femininity and what that it means to be a chinese teen in an international age and country. I aim to research smaller brands like Basic Pleasure Mode that puts out gender-neutral clothing and also offers more expressive styles, shapes, patterns and prints.

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The Balenciaga ad campaign has been a recent topic of conversation as it’s recent campaign has blatant themes of child violence and sexual connotations. This could count as an element of diversity through using children as a different age group which isn’t often represented. It brings up too much chance for exploitation as seen in this ad campaign. In one image there is the child holding a teddy bear which was covered in bondage. I believe this campaign was meant to be representative of combining unexpected elements and having a large shock value to the public eye but was done in a bad way as the ethics of the campaign are undeniably horrifying with children involved. Another image has a bag with newspapers behind it but the newspapers when looked upon closer inspection shows articles about child exploitation which I find incredibly unnecessary and although Balenciaga has apologised it doesn’t nullify the fact it was done in the first place. This should also not relate to being ‘diverse’, whilst creative ethically it’s wrong. The visuals of this campaign is very brutalist and seems unsettling to anyone whether they’re involved in the fashion world or not.

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Burberrys 2021 autumn campaign illustrates almost behind the scenes of the collection. The diversity element is shown through the range of models but contrasts the Union Jack being on the designs of the clothes. Burberry being a British brand shows that not all British people are white and many ethnicities are British. The colour palettes used are muted and complimentary to the models. The only aspect of this that lacks diversity is the models all being slim and tall, which is almost to be expected on the fashion industry but shouldn’t be a given. There has been conflict about flags being used and appropriated in different collections like Zara using Mexican flags which caused upheaval and controversy within the brand. Burberry using the Union Jack makes sense as it’s a classically and notoriously British brand, this could almost seem exclusive in some eyes.

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& other stories August 2015 ad campaign is effective in showing diversity through the models chosen. The Transgender models used within the campaign almost represents mens and womens accessibility to fashion and their clothes, being available for all. This is diverse in the way of using trans models but ethnically could be showing more diversity. The use of trans models in the fashion and sports industry have been a point of talk and controversy due to debates on equality and fairness. I believe this campaign shows this effectively without sparking debate on people being ‘left out’ or  ‘different’. The visuals, colour and composition are all beautifully executed.

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Always Do What You Should Do have a unique way of creating brand campaigns where they show more community elements with gritty and street wear imagery expressing the true nature of the brand. It’s mostly built around the skate scene. The setting of the photoshoot is in casual street locations, expressing the style of Always. The lack of Diversity could be around the lack of women in their campaigns. Although it’s true the skate scene is mainly male dominated it doesn’t excise their lack of representation as women are prevalent in the scene. Their styling and graphics are real and gritty, as these styles are something that are seen on the streets throughout London.

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The United Colours of Benetton ad has clear elements of so called ‘diversity’ suggesting that at the end of the day everyone biologically through their hearts are all the same but it’s brutally and even insensitivity done. The visuals are contemporary and expressive. Most brands especially clothing ads wouldn’t have this to promote or expand their brand but Benetton has a notorious reputation for their controversial ads representing diversity. Describing Asian people as yellow is inherently insensitive and used as an insult, making the ad almost uncomfortable to look at. The campaign is effective in its visual communication and expressing the creative message, but the way it’s showing diversity is clearly controversial. The photography I think is beautifully done with its graphic and bold choices but the message has undeniably racist undertones.

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The Calvin Klein ad campaign with Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg is an iconic campaign of the 90s. The sexual undertones of this shoot have been widely talked on as Moss was only 17 years old and Wahlberg was 21, her childlike features and petite body have almost been used against her in this setting, stating she felt ‘scared on set’. The lack of inclusivity and diversity on body types and ethnicities is shocking, but Calvin Klein have been known for this problematic approach for a long time. The campaign makes me feel uncomfortable knowing the exploitation of Kate Moss being vulnerable and so young.

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Balmain ss 2014 ad campaign shows diversity in the most effective and elegant way showing femininity within the most raw form. The diversity is shown through the different women of all ethnicities being powerful even though the poses could seem more submissive with them lying down. The visual communication is effectively portraying this message through the racial differences between the women and the colours and composition of the ad. The clothes almost have a regal element with the embroidery and fur the luxurious style shows this well. Depicting the divine feminine to have status, elegance and equality which is expressed through this ad campaign. This is one of my favourite ad campaigns showing diversity as its way of expressing equality is beautifully executed through illustrating it through powerful women.

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This vogue ad campaign shows diversity through the models and their styling without seeming performative. The models are all standing next to each other with one common theme that they’re all resting their arms on each other’s shoulders, this shows unity and a sense of togetherness. Each model has a different style of look shown through the clothes, makeup hair and expressions. It shows how diversity is about togetherness whilst keeping a sense of individuality. Vogue has expressed this hoot well and the visual message is communicated very effectively.

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The Fenty beauty ad campaign shows diversity through makeup, promoting the brands new makeup collection. The colour palettes work well with the skin tones on the different models used. All the looks are slightly editorial but also wearable for day to day showing the makeups versatility. The ad campaign represents diversity and versatility in my eyes. Fenty beauty is known for their wide shade range of foundations and bold statement makeup. This is well expressed visually through the ad campaign using the bold colour palette. Diversity to me is also about self expression for everyone which is clearly shown in this campaign.

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Joan Didion had been named the new ‘it girl’ after her cover on Céline. The campaign represents diversity through age, most models being young, airbrushed and tall, Céline used Didion as their ad campaign model, Didion being a literary icon and well known for her social activist nature, it shows there is more to the models than just being a prop for the clothes. This is an effective use of diversity. The visual communication has been expressed well, through her being almost candid in her pose with an expression of nonchalance. Communicating her personality and the brand. The campaign clearly is stating an issue with models being used just to hang clothes on or just as modelling being there job. This isn’t inherently wrong, but lacks substance as the models have so much more to them as people than just their appearance. Céline have expressed this through their ad campaign with Didion.

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10 brands/ campaigns - how do they show diversity?

1. Gucci lipstick lunch 2019

Gucci launched 58 lipsticks, it was Guccis first launch cosmetic launch under the new creative director Alessandro Michele. In this campaign, Michele aimed to change to ideas on conventional beauty standards. Martin Parr wrote for Glamour magazine ‘Still, there’s one beauty ideal that haunts been challenged in big way yet, and that’s the idea of “perfect” teeth.’ The campaign featured close up on 4 different models, with different skin tones and also including model and singer Dani Miller, which close up displays proudly the large gaps in her teeth.

2. Gucci Love Parade spring 2022

Creative director Alessandro Michele and Art Director Christopher Simmonds payed homage to the golden age of Hollywood, displaying their 70s inspired evening wear, with a modern twist, in the campaign video, Gucci wrote that they were ‘Portraying the modern myth of cinema through a sequence of of obsession and desires’. The fashionograhpy described the campaign by writing ‘While the authors create the atmosphere, the clothes direct the gestures. Their secret is being aware of the threshold - queer of phantasmic - the hand that brings bodies to words and words to bodies. Clothes restore desire; articulate it; providing a map.’ I think this way of desiring the way the diverse types of relationships, not only different types of LGBT relationship but also the multi racial relationship create the seductive ambiance which communicate the collection.

3. GCDS x Barilla campaign 2019

This campaign called ‘The dinners ready’ by Nadia Lee Cohen, which stars Sophia Loren showcases ‘a message of inclusivity and diversity order to display “The New Barilla by GCDS”.’ (Papermagazine, 2019). This campaign honours the Mediterranean roots of the brand with the celebration of food brought by the Barilla pasta. The dinner party exaggerated 60s styles with a diverse group of models, drag queens and influencers in a rage of different ages and ethnicities.

4. Jean Paul Gaultier Les punks 2021

The campaign to unveil the Jean Paul Gaultier ready to wear capsule collection ‘Les Punks’ also launched the new online shops which is entirely unisex, divided without gender categories, helping the brand be inclusive for all gender identities. The campaign used a motion picture style, creating a camp sense of irony to low budget movie aesthetics. It is film that is ‘off-beat yet on-trend attitude and a clash of worlds that screams Gaultier’(Press Club, 2021). Having this campy “off-beat” film to launch the unisex online shops, helps show the inclusivity Gaultier is known for.

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comparison of traditional Ecuador prints compared to Loewe S/S 2018 collection

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Like many brands before, Loewe is no stranger to accusations of cultural appropriation. The brands Spring/ Summer 2018 collection was notably criticised for the prints that were featured throughout, people began to notice said prints clearly resembled traditional textile patterns made by the indigenous craftspeople of Ecuador. No credit was given to the original inspiration, something that unfortunately is a common occurance within the fashion industry. That was until the popular instagram account ‘Diet Prada’ called them out on a post. In response, the creative director of Loewe took to the comments to state that ‘to honour’ their craftsmanship the blankets and tote bags were to be made in Ecuador. This, I feel, was a lazy attempt to appease the backlash, the damage had already been done and there was no monetary compensation for the stolen designs to the effected people. This is just another example of how big brands are able to to steal with no consequence and take advantage of those with less power.

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Marc Jacobs spring ready-to-wear 2017 collection inspired by all things 90’s quite notoriously featured faux dreadlocks on their - predominantly- white cast of models. I personally don't believe Jacobs created this collection with bad intentions in mind, however, the way he responded to the criticism and education was completely insensitive and inappropriate. Marc Jacobs took to instagram to state “And all those who cry ‘cultural appropriation’ or whatever nonsense… Funny how you don’t criticise women of colour for straightening their hair”. This is just another example of how big brands abuse the power their platform holds, knowing there wont be any ‘real’ or lasting consequences to their actions.

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Diversity serves as a genuine reflection of what the cultures of the people in the world has to offer. It has the ability to amplify the often overlooked or diminished voices from different communities, as it embraces a much wider range of experiences and perspectives. Because of this, it offers a more accurate portrayal of human kind and fosters an environment where the underrepresented and marginalised groups can be heard and accepted.

Because fashion is a medium for self-expression, it is a powerful cultural instrument that, when played correctly, can represent and make different communities feel seen and included. This is why, whether we are designers, journalists, and artists, it is crucial that we are educated on the significance of cultural icons or pieces, so as not to offend, negatively impact or wrongly portray community being represented.

However in recent years, due to the higher demand in diverse media representation, many companies have used it as a way to garner a larger audience for the sole reason of profit-making. This can be seen in instances pf queer-baiting or including a minimal number of POC as models / casts.

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Diana Vreeland worked as an editor of Harper’s Bazaar for 25 years, and editor-in-chief of Vogue for 8 years. She has a lot of experiences and knowledge of fashion, and vigorously promote diversity.

Her opinions about style are also meaningful. She encourages people to accept and be proud of their flaws and make them the trademark of themselves.

While being diverse, she loves her own background and was super confident about it. In the documentary “Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel”, when she was asked for the question “How does one become Diana Vreeland?”, her answer was “The first thing to do, my love, is arranged to be born in Paris. After that, everything follows quite naturally.”

This gave me the idea that, before being diverse, the first thing is to love the culture I owned already and be confidence about it, then start to appreciate others.

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Bill Cunningham is a fashion photographer who took photos of people’s clothing naturally without posing at all. He got two series of photograph, which are “On the Street” and “Evening Hours”. In “On The Street”, he organized the photos by different fashion trend, just like building a database of people’s dressing.

One of the important characteristics of his work is he only focus on the dressing itself; it does not matter how people look, and he never rate them or judge them.

Because he is not judging or having preferences, his photos collections are objective and real. Which inspired me that not judging is what can help for diversity at the very beginning when doing the research, so the range for selection would be much more wilder.

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Princess Diana’s revenge dress---Christina Stambolian and LBD

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Princess Diana’s revenge dress---Christina Stambolian and LBD

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Princess Diana was one of the important fashion icon of the UK. She achieved a lot of break through of fashion which influenced the world fashion a lot. The most significant figures may be her revenge dress designed by Christina Stambolian, which is a little black dress.

This dress has successfully represented Princess Diana’s attitude and was described as a fresh stab at freedom.

However, it was Coco Chanel who gave the first little black dress. During the time, a lot of designers and brands are making work that callback to Chanel’s LBD.

Princess Diana and Christina Stambolian did diverse with the LBD amazingly, this was new as Diana was a member of the royal family, and black dress was off-limits to her.

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When talking about diversity, Chinoiserie was the first thing that came into my mind. During the 17-18 centuries, Chinese culture was introduced to Europe, and having Chinese style fashion items and art pieces became a trend.

François Boucher was a painter during the 17 century, and one of his famous series of paintings was his chinoiserie series of Rococo paintings, which has included a lot of Chinese elements. Besides, they also contained a lot of fashion elements as Boucher was mainly painting about people.

His paintings were amazing and beautifully painted. However, a lot of details of the fashion in his paintings went wrong very badly.

L’Audience de l’empereur de Chine, is one of his Chinoiserie paintings, which described the scene of Chinese Emperor having a meeting with the officers. The contents of this painting was terribly messed up, even only focusing on the dressing of characters. Features of different dynasties were mixed together super randomly, and a load of made up design by himself. For example, the hat of the Emperor was in Song dynasty’s style, but those people in front of him are having Qing dynasty’s hair style, and there was nearly 900 years passed between the two dynasties. The whole painting just does not make any sense in terms of contents.

However, it was a painting from long time ago, there is not enough information for saying it is diversity or tokenism for Boucher’s paintings. But it has inspired me about how to identify if a piece was diversity or not. Which is looking at details of the cultural parts, and see if it was made with interest and respect to that culture to get it accurate or they are just made into the certain looking just for visual appearance.

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Balenciaga 2020 Qixi campaign—too cool/ kitsch

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Balenciaga 2020 Qixi campaign—too cool/ kitsch

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The kitsch or the Tuku style (peasant cool, sounds like “too cool”) in China, have been trending among the youth this few years, and after I have really research about this, I found that the humours of people creating the work is the part that really have a value rather than the piece itself.

Having what this idea in mind, when I saw the Balenciaga 2020 Qixi campaign in China, I feel uncomfortable.

The campaign was edited with stickers and frames that are really old-fashioned and vulgar, and writing “you love me”, “I love you”, “he loves me”, or “I love me” on the bag with black marker, then sold it for 13900 RMB (about 1580 GBP).

It is playful and having the sense of humour when people make fun of themselves or even satire things that related to them. But when these are done by others who are not a part of the group, it is not funny anymore.

And it is not just about the misstep on the too cool style, the “he loves me” bag also brought a lot of disputes about gender.

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Prada Lunar New Year 2019 digital campaign

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Prada Lunar New Year 2019 digital campaign

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This video campaign was made for Chinese Lunar New Year by Prada in 2019. The clothing in this video is absolutely fine and looing good. The editing is also beautiful, only if it was not for the lunar new year. The lunar new year is supposed to be happy, festive, and lively, but the editing went completely the wrong way. Especially the filter used for the video, which is super close to what Chinese horror theme campaign would use.

This campaign made me laugh as the editing went exactly the opposite that it should be. But I did not feel angry or disappointed, because after seeing so many of the overseas brand messing up with Chinese cultural elements, I did not have any expectation at all.

At least Prada gave credit to Chinese culture, and they did not insult anyone in this campaign.

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Dior FALL 2022 culturally appropriating Chinese traditional dress 

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Dior FALL 2022 culturally appropriating Chinese traditional dress 

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In the FALL 2022 collection of Dior, there was a skirt with flat surface and slit design in the front and back and pleated the rest area. This is a classic structure of Chinese traditional dress called Mamianqun. However, on Dior’s page, they claimed it “hallmark Dior silhouette”.

It was a serious incident, Dior was culturally appropriating Chinese traditional dress, and not responding after accused.

After seeing this piece of news, I was thinking about what is making appropriating and appreciating different, and I have got the idea that giving credit to the original culture would be the most important thing. As people are happy with their own culture being appreciated and presented with respect.

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wallpaper卷宗 photographing Marni MIAO collection

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wallpaper卷宗 photographing Marni MIAO collection

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April 2021, the magazine Wallpaper has published a series of photograph of the Chinese super model Liu Wen wearing the Marni MIAO collection directed by Francesco Risso.

The collection was inspired by the traditional clothing of the minority Miao in Guizhou, China. The silver accessories and embroideries are the key factors. However, the collection focused on the two eye catching elements too much and working so hard for making their design look similar to the original clothing.

They have completely ignored one of the most important things, the different complex cuttings of the Miao clothing, and this is what makes it feel performative. The designs are looking beautiful, but it is super obvious that they did not learn the precious parts.

Also, the series of photographs were published in the China edition of Wallpaper, which makes me feel complicated when seeing this.

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Saint Laurent 1967 YSL safari jacket and African collection

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Saint Laurent 1967 YSL safari jacket and African collection

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YSL introduced the first safari jacket in 1967 runway shows. Saint Laurent was inspired by uniforms worn by the Afrika Korps and outfits worn by Occidental men in Africa. He turned a jacket for men during the war into women’s fashion clothing, which was a breakthrough of women’s fashion. Some claimed that it was a revolution to women’s fashion.

This jacket came with the African collection, which contains a lot of African elements including materials.

“The most noticeable dress paid tribute to the Bambara sculptures produced by the community of the same name in Mali. Their statues depicting women are characterized by long bodies and pointy breasts.”

Laurent chose models with ebony skin for the show, to fully display the clothing, for me, this action shows respect to the African culture. However, I am an outsider, and the other thing I am doubting about the collection and the jacket may be the inspiration of Laurent. Remaking men’s wear into women’s wear is interesting and meaningful, but when it came to a jacket that men wore during the world war, it turned into a question mark.

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The similarity of Gucci and Tomford 2024 spring-summer collection.

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The similarity of Gucci and Tomford 2024 spring-summer collection.

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In this year spring-summer show, Gucci has released a show “Ancora” for their new collection. Thise collection included quite a lot of their classic design and colour schemes they have used. Which may be a call back to the 90s, when Gucci was with Tom Ford.

On the other hand, Peter Hawkings, the creative director of Tom Ford, also decided to go nostalgic in the spring-summer collection. In this case, the two brands are looking back to their 90s style, which made their collections look like each other.

At the first glance, I did feel the similarity between the two collections. However, they are still having their own elements in their design for example, the red, green, and white colour scheme for Gucci.

And it is reasonable that the collections shared common elements. In the spring-summer 2024, a lot of brands were calling back to the past, which may be interesting to find out the reason later.

Hawkings worked as deputy of Tom Ford for twenty years, which made referencing on Tom Ford during the 90s well founded. And of course, because the brand is Tom Ford.

There may not be copying between the two brands, they are just looking back to their own histories, but unfortunately, they are from the same designer.

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Nike has played a huge part in encouraging and including diversity throughout their clothing lines and campaigns. For example they speak up about individuals who come from different regions and who have a disability etc. they do really make activewear for anyone and everyone. Hijabs have bean included through Nikes clothing for example swim use or gym use for individuals that can express their heritage and feel comfortable in doing so with everyday activities and I think it is wonderful to see more and more active brands doing the same.

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Savage x fenty was created for the ability for any individual to feel sexy, confident and comfortable through their different ranges of lingerie, everyday underwear and pyjamas. Their bra sizes range from 30A to a 46G and their underwear starts from xs to 5xl. Their pyjamas start from xs to xl. They also include menswear. The models variety is amazing to see and includes real women from different ethnicities and sizes. I love how they include different styles and colours so everyone can find what they are looking for a what they personally like.

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Loud bodies branding is so beautiful and shows the different styles and sizes they have to offer. In all of their lines and campaigns they include models from all different ethnicities, religions, body images etc. their sizes start from xxs to 10xl which is an amazing range for all different individuals to jump on board. The thing that stoud out for me the most about this brand is that “ if your needs are not met for example size or accessibility needs they will do custom orders free of charge” which I think is so amazing.

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This brand is designed for individuals in which have a disability which can make it hard to do everyday activities fir example doing up buttons on a shirt or pulling up shorts or jeans but magna ready has designed solutions. They are most known for their magnetic buttons but they also specialise in trousers for wheelchair users and also pull up features. Their trousers include both stand up and sit down fits. They also have an active wear line which includes all these features listed. I think this brand is so great and I think most other brands could show more of these features for disabled individuals.

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This brand’s marketing targets individuals in which struggling finding bras due to their surgerys. Their main focus is creating bras for women who have gone through breast cancer which I think is so important and inspiring. They create bras which include removable cups and front closers which are extremely comfortable and have a range of different sizes styles and shapes. They also have lingerie, loungewear and pyjamas tgat go from xs to xxl. In their photography for their brand they include women from all different backgrounds, ethnicity’s, ages etc.