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https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/6387b5d5995aec17a4f6d6e6#page17

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designboom | architecture & design magazine

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undercover ss24 collection stuns at paris fashion week

Japanese fashion designer Jun Takahashi cast a hauntingly enchanting atmosphere onto his Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 collection, dubbed 'Deep Mist', at Paris Fashion Week. Choreographed inside a car park, the runway show was adorned with a series of tulle-wrapped chandeliers lying on the floor, as if fallen from the ceiling, creating a surreal and almost dream-like backdrop. Operatic music accompanied the models as they walk down the runway, sporting a mix of flowy monochrome outfits and neon-yellow sweaters, followed by vibrant suits and coats marked with giant prints. Several Undercover garments even echoed the black tulle encasing the chandeliers. Concluding the show, Takahashi sent three glowing dresses down the Undercover runway, fitted with terrariums of roses and butterflies.

screenshot, Undercover / Jun Takahashi Live Streaming SS24 | courtesy Undercover

Jun Takahashi enchants the runway with 3 glowing terrariums

While most of the Undercover SS24 at Paris Fashion Week (more ) unfolded under clear lighting, the last few minutes were enjoyed in a dimmed atmosphere. Jun Takahashi (more here) used the rows of chandeliers to pave a softly lit path for the last three models, each moving slowly and gently down the runway so as not to disturb the blooming garden buzzing inside each of the ballgowns. The Japanese designer opted for white, yellow, and black see-through fabrics, wrapping each model and the glowing terrariums with colored fabric. Meanwhile, pink, white, and yellow roses fill the sealed glass containers where the fluttering wings of butterfly can be caught moving around inside. You can watch Undercover's complete 'Deep Mist' collection for Spring/Summer 2024 here.

Edit: recently reached out to Jun Takahashi, alerted by his use of live butterflies during the runway show. While executed for purely sentimental reasons, the designer responded to the organization with a heartfelt letter of apology, vowing 'never to use butterflies or living animals in my creations.' According to PETA, 'butterflies used for public displays are either wild-caught or captive-bred. They are typically shipped long distances, and many are crushed or die from exposure before they even reach their destination. If they're turned loose or escape, they often struggle to find food sources and rarely survive.'

glowing terrariums filled with roses & butterflies | image courtesy Undercover via Instagram

screenshot, Undercover / Jun Takahashi Live Streaming SS24 | courtesy Undercover

the models slowly walked down the runway | image courtesy Undercover via Instagram

using different tulle-like colors for each dress | image courtesy Undercover via Instagram

screenshot, Undercover / Jun Takahashi Live Streaming SS24 | courtesy Undercover
project info:
name: Deep Mist

brand: Undercover | @undercover_lab / Jun Takahashi

collection: Women Spring Summer 2024

event: Paris Fashion Week 2024

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undercover's jun takahashi sent glowing terrariums down the runway at paris fashion week

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filled with roses and butterflies, the three undercover terrarium dresses concluded the SS24 show with an enchanting touch.

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McKinsey report with stats/surveys regarding sustainability seeking consumers

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Young, urban fashion consumers actively seek out sustainable options, but most shoppers remain neutral to the idea. In fact, many find it challenging to figure out what actually constitutes "sustainability," with a long, complex list of potential factors to consider.

This could change, however, as millennials and Gen Zers reach both the age and income levels to apply their eco-conscious values and beliefs to their wardrobes. In turn, this demand could spur clearer messaging and more sustainable practices from brands.

These findings are from a recent McKinsey survey in the United Kingdom that looked at consumer sentiment about sustainability in clothing, footwear, and accessories. Despite increased awareness about the importance of sustainability, the fashion industry's environmental footprint remains significant. Companies create far more products than they can sell, and more than half of all global fiber produced is polyester, a material that requires a great deal of energy for extraction and processing and that lingers in the environment for a long time. In total, the fashion industry emits about the same quantity of greenhouse gases (GHGs) per year as the economies of France, Germany, and the United Kingdom combined.

As environmental, social, and governance (ESG) transparency continues to grow in importance, fashion companies will likely feel pressure to do more. For example, starting next year, the UK government will require listed companies to publish net-zero transition plans and set company targets to mitigate their climate risk. Certain public companies will also be required to disclose climate-related financial information that follows standards set by the Task Force on Climate-Related Financial Disclosures (TCFD).

Sustainability seekers

One-quarter of respondents to our survey indicated that they are concerned about sustainability-related issues (Exhibit 1). These consumers go out of their way to buy secondhand items and to look for clothing made with environmentally friendly material, such as recycled polyester. Our research shows that this group, which is willing to pay 15 percent more for sustainable options, is more likely to consist of urban millennial women with moderate to high incomes (Exhibit 2). The factors that these sustainability seekers care most about are the lowering of GHG emissions, the preservation of natural habitats for animals, practices that don't harm animals, and the use of renewable energy (Exhibit 3).

In contrast, about half of our survey respondents were ambivalent about sustainability, while another one-quarter emerged as a strong counterbalancing contingent. These consumers said that they were actively not interested in seeking out sustainable fashion choices.

As environmental, social, and governance (ESG) transparency continues to grow in importance, fashion companies will likely feel pressure to do more.

One factor that is likely holding these consumers back is a general confusion about the term "sustainability." Customers rely most on brand websites and product tags when evaluating fashion brands and products (Exhibit 4). But these sources often contain a bewildering array of sustainability features, credentials, and claims, impairing a consumer's ability to make easy, educated choices. No shared understanding exists among consumers (or brands) about what exactly "sustainability" means, which features matter most, or where to find information about a particular brand's sustainability commitment. It can be even harder to find independent sources that help distinguish between authentic sustainability claims and greenwashing.

Fashion brands have a significant opportunity to deliver clear, straightforward information on their practices (both at and before the point of sale), as well as frictionless postpurchase options that consumers can use to mitigate the impact of their fashion choices.

Fashion brands have a significant opportunity to deliver clear, straightforward information on their practices.

The opportunity for circular fashion

Although most consumers in our survey said that sustainability does not actively influence their purchasing decisions, responses were different when we asked about an item's end of life. Only 24 percent of respondents said they go out of their way to buy products from sustainable brands, while some 46 percent of consumers said they would want to purchase items that could be easily donated to charity (Exhibit 5).

This finding highlights a fertile landscape for the development of circular business models. Because fashion will always be driven by a desire to seek novelty, a sustainability paradox is inevitable: in our survey, the consumers most engaged with sustainability are also those most likely to generate waste by renewing their wardrobes every season (Exhibit 6). To create more value for these shoppers, brands can design their products to be repurposed once a consumer is finished with them. This sustainable loop, if managed well, would lessen consumers' dependence on entirely new products, allow companies to do more with less, and reduce the fashion industry's planetary impact.

As the fashion and textile industries strive to reduce their environmental footprint and consumers grow increasingly aware of our changing climate, we expect consumers' desires for sustainable fashion to grow. Brands that help people to understand and mitigate the impact of their fashion choices place themselves in a leadership role on this important issue and in a stronger position to drive sustainable growth.

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In search of fashion's sustainability seekers

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How brands can keep up with the demand for sustainable fashion practices.

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Loewe ReCraft- specialises in repairing and maintenance of leather items

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2- Shipping methods

3- Reservation in store

4- Packaging & Gifts

5- Purchase and secure payment

6- Exchanges and returns

7- Care and repair guide

8- Terms and conditions

9- Legal & Cookies

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Shipping methods

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Collection yourself you need:

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Representative needs:

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Representative´s government issued photo identification

Authorization letter signed by the purchaser

We will verify your identity for security reasons, we could also make a copy of these documents. The store reserves the right to verify the Card or method of payment used to place the order. At collection, you will be asked to sign a collection receipt.

Purchaser must inform the authorized person of the time frame of 15 days to collect the order from the moment that the email is sent to inform that the order is ready to collect. Purchaser must make sure the authorized person is aware of all the required documents he will need to bring to be able to collect the order.

If you do not collect your order: Your order will be available in-store for 15 days. If not collected, it will be sent back and your original method of payment will be refunded.

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Check the full list where this service in offered through this link.

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After this 48 hour time frame, the reservation will expire.

All purchases made in store off products reserve through loewe.com are subject to the store terms and conditions of sale. Packaging & Gifts

You will receive your LOEWE order in our extraordinary packaging. The items will come protected by a cotton cover in herringbone grey, with an anagram label. Products are arranged in our signature smokey white gift box, except for those delivered using the Express Delivery service, available in Barcelona city area.

The Leather ready to wear pieces might arrive in a larger box in order to protect the quality of our raw materials.

Gifts

It is possible to include a Gift Message in the package, you can select this option at check out and write yourpersonal message. The is no invoice with price included, only a delivery note in which the price is omitted will be included in the parcel, so that you can send your purchase as a gift directly.

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Please check your purchase upon receipt and notify the courier. If, for any reason, you wish to make a claim, you must contact our Customer Service Department, keeping all the LOEWE packaging in good order.

Should you wish to exchange or return your purchase from LOEWE's online store, you may do so in accordance with the terms set out in the Exchanges & Right of withdrawal, Returns.

Purchase and secure payment

To purchase an item from LOEWE's online store, simply select "Add to Shopping Bag" on the product page, and then click on the "Purchase" button to finalize your purchase. You will then be directed to our secure checkout area where you can choose a billing address (where we will send your invoice) and a delivery address (which may be different to the billing address, for example: a work address, a company, the address of the person you wish to send a gift to...). The final step is the Secure Payment, where you will be able to select from various payment methods.

Loewe.com accepts different forms of payments depending on the country or region of the billing address. Including:

Klarna

In cooperation with Klarna Bank AB (publ), Sveavägen 46, 111 34 Stockholm, Sweden, we offer you the following payment methods. Payment is to be made to Klarna.

Pay in [14] days: The payment period is 14 days from shipment of the goods or tickets/ availability date of the service. You can find the complete terms and conditions for the markets where this payment method is available here: Germany, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Austria and the Netherlands.

The payment method Pay in [14] days is only available in case of a positive credit assessment. For this purpose, during the order process and handling of your purchase, we forward your data for an address and credit check to Klarna. We can only offer you the payment methods available based on the result of the credit check. General information about Klarna and the user terms per country can be found on klarna.com.

Your personal data is handled in accordance with applicable data protection law and in accordance with the information in Klarnas privacy statement.

In some cases, after pressing the 'Purchase' button, you may be directed to your bank's webpage where you will be asked for an extra security password for payment with your Visa card or MasterCard. This is the 3D Secure Code, a security system which has been developed by your bank and which will ask you for your password to ensure your payment is secure. This password for online shopping with your card is personal to you and should be given to you by your bank. For further information, please contact your bank directly or our Customer Service Team.

LOEWE credit coins or credit notes issued by our offline stores cannot be used to purchase articles from our online store.

Once payment has been received and your order has been confirmed, your order will automatically be sent to LOEWE for processing. Confirmation of your order means your acceptance of the whole Terms and Conditions of Sale through LOEWE's online store.

You will receive an email with the confirmation and details of your order.

The prices of LOEWE products are shown in Euros, Pounds Sterling and US Dollars, Yens and the different local currencies of each country or region (except in Brunei, Ivory Coast, Croatia, Egypt, Jordan, Kenya, Mauritius, Nigeria, Oman, Senegal, South Africa), including taxes. We reserve the right to change the prices of the products on the www.loewe.com website at any time and without prior notice. However, the prices that appear when the consumer makes a purchase will be considered valid.

Any data registered by the www.loewe.com website will serve as proof of the transactions carried out between LOEWE and its customers. In the event of a dispute between LOEWE and one of its customers about a transaction carried out through the www.loewe.com website, all the data registered by LOEWE S.A will be considered as irrefutable proof of the transaction.

Stock availability

LOEWE cannot be liable if stock is unavailable at any given time. In the case of an issue with ordered stock, LOEWE will contact the customer within 48 hours after purchase to offer a solution.

Select your country or region

To ensure that the correct currency, payment methods and shipping conditions for your area are displayed, please select your country or region from the drop-down menu on the top left-hand corner of the www.loewe.com webpage.

You may exchange the items purchased from LOEWE's online store within thirty (30) days at our offline stores (except for department stores, outlets, wholesalers and franchises) with the delivery note provided with every purchase, the order confirmation email or the official invoice of your online purchase. The item(s) must be in their original condition and with their original packaging and their corresponding accessories in order to be exchanged.

Exchanges will not be accepted in Mainland China or South Korea LOEWE retail stores, unless originally purchased there

In the case of perfumes, the items must be returned in their original packaging, perfectly sealed and intact in order to guarantee the correct hygienic conditions. Depreciation could also be considered in this case

Any other product purchased from the LOEWE online store which has been customized or is part of special pre-order collections, is not subject to the Exchanges and Return policy

Dice Charm bought through our online store cannot be returned unless returned as a full Set. Exchange in the store is possible following the terms described above

Returns

If you would like to Return an item or items purchased from the LOEWE online store, you may do so within 14 working days following the date of delivery. Working days to exercise your right of withdrawal will be counted stated in the applicable legislation of the location where the product is delivered. You will be refunded the amount paid for the item(s) within a maximum period of fifteen (15) days of receiving and approving the Return.

During the gifting season, we extend our returns policy to 30 days. All purchases made before 31 December can be returned within 30 days from when the order was confirmed

In accordance with applicable regulations, your legal right to withdrawal will not be applicable to orders for:

The supply of goods manufactured according to customer specifications or which are clearly personalised

The supply of goods whose return is not suitable on health or hygiene grounds

In the case of perfumes, the items must be returned in their original packaging, perfectly sealed and intact in order to guarantee the correct hygienic conditions. Depreciation could also be considered in this case

In the case of Books or Stationary, the items must be returned in their original packaging, perfectly sealed and intact

LOEWE will pay for the delivery cost of returning the item(s) to our Central Warehouse. All you have to do is contact our Customer Service and they will assist with the return

By phone:

English +44 2 074 991 284

French +33 (0) 1 56 43 46 20

9:00 - 20:00 (GMT +1) Monday to Saturday

The article(s) must be in perfect condition, and returned in its/their original packaging, along with all the accessories

LOEWE will refund the amount paid (excluding any return delivery costs) to the card with which you made the payment. Only the original purchaser of the product(s) can request a return as the refund will be directly made to the card with which the payment was made. This process might take up to 14 days

Any product ordered from the LOEWE's online store which has been customized cannot be returned or refunded

All products purchased from loewe.com can only be returned from the same country/region or territory that it was shipped to, as indicated at the order confirmation stage of purchase

LOEWE will not be responsible or liable if any item(s) you wish to return to LOEWE's online store is lost, misdirected or delivered late. The customer must bear the risks of shipping their purchase

LOEWE offline stores do not offer refunds on any product(s) acquired from the LOEWE online store

In the case where a product lacks conformity, the client may make use of the legal guarantee corresponding to the Royal Legislative Decree 1/2007 of November 16, which pertains to the General Law for the Defense of Consumers and Users. LOEWE must proceed, as appropriate, to repair or replace the product, or reduce the price and terminate the contract under the terms provided in the aforementioned Royal Legislative Decree, all procedures which will be free for the consumer and user. LOEWE responds to breaches of conformity that have been raised within two years of delivery. The consumer and user must inform LOEWE of the lack of conformity within two months of becoming aware of it. The legal guarantee of conformity is applicable regardless of any other commercial guarantee offered by LOEWE. These rights are independent and are compatible with the commercial guarantee

The return form can be downloaded here

Care and repair guide

You will find an specific Care Guide by type of product on each product page

To maintain and conserve your LOEWE item in its best condition, avoid prolonged and direct exposure to sources of light and heat. We recommend storing the product in its original packaging. Avoid contact with water, oils, perfumes or cosmetics. If your LOEWE item gets wet, remove any excess moisture without rubbing, dab with a soft cloth and let dry at room temperature

If you have any questions regarding our products and their upkeep, please visit one of our stores where our staff will be happy to help and give you information regarding LOEWE´s Cleaning Service

LOEWE respects international standards of protection and conservation of the environment in all its products

After-sales service

LOEWE´s Customer Service team will be pleased to assist you with any queries

Consumer goods guarantee

If an article is faulty, LOEWE will, as appropriate, repair, replace, reduce the price or terminate the contract. The procedures will be free of charge for the consumer and user. LOEWE will address non-conformities within a period of 2 years after the date of purchase

At the end of the ordering process, you will be requested to click on "Purchase" to confirm your purchase

Once your order has been confirmed, it will be sent to LOEWE for processing. Your order cannot be modified or cancelled except in accordance with the Terms and Conditions of Sale or with the provisions set out by Spanish law

Confirmation of your order implies your acceptance of the whole Terms and Conditions of Sale. You will be sent an email with the details of your order

Any data registered by the www.loewe.com website will serve as proof of the transactions carried out between LOEWE S.A. and its customers

In the event of a dispute between LOEWE S.A. and one of its customers about a transaction carried out on the www.loewe.com website, the data registered by LOEWE S.A. will be considered as irrefutable proof of the transaction contained therein. On the effective date of delivery, the risks (in particular loss, theft or damage) relating to the Products Delivered will be passed on to you

The sale of any product through LOEWE's Official online store is subject to these Terms and Conditions of Sale

The offeror is LOEWE S.A. (henceforth "LOEWE") with headquarters at Goya, 4 - 28001 Madrid, Spain, included in the Madrid Commercial Register, Volume 335, Folio 194, Page M-6657, and with tax ID number A-28003861

Orders to acquire LOEWE products can only be made by natural persons and companies with no intention of resale

Any resale or distribution of LOEWE products purchased from the www.loewe.com website is strictly forbidden

Customer complaint forms can be obtained by emailing customerservice@loewe.com or are available from the Madrid Flagship store at Calle Goya 4, 28001 Madrid

LOEWE may update these Terms and Conditions of Sale at any time. You may consult the most up-to-date version of the General Conditions of Sale at any time by clicking on the Customer Service link. To place an order through LOEWE's online store you must accept the Terms and Conditions of Sale in force at the time of placing the order

Intellectual property

All the material within the www.loewe.com web site (drawings, designs, illustrations, photographs, sound tracks, written texts, logos, trademarks, etc) is the exclusive property of LOEWE S.A. or any of its subsidiaries(henceforth "LOEWE"). You may not reproduce, distribute, publish, transmit, create works deriving from or based on, modify or sell any of the contained material, either totally or partially, by any means or process (unless otherwise expressly stated in this document)

The 'LOEWE' trademark, the logo of the four Ls, and the rest of the brands and logos related with LOEWE, whether registered or not, that are displayed on the www.loewe.com web site, as well as the LOEWE.com domain name, are and will remain the exclusive property of LOEWE S.A. Any reproduction, distribution, transmittal, modification or use of these trademarks without the prior written consent from LOEWE S.A. is forbidden

You may not eliminate any reference to copyrights, trademarks or any other indication regarding intellectual property rights contained in the www.loewe.com web site, or any other content included therein. You may create copies of the web pages published in the www.loewe.com web site for private and personal use and not for profit or commercial use, as long as any copies of said web pages retain all copyright or proprietary notifications and therest of the intellectual property notifications contained therein

The LOEWE S.A. ('LOEWE') web site, with headquarters in Madrid, Calle Goya 4, 28001 Madrid, with tax ID CIF-A-28003861 and included in the Madrid Mercantile Register in Volume 335, Page 194, Sheet M-6657, is original creative work protected by the laws of intellectual property protection. The web site, as well as all the elementstherein, is the exclusive property of LOEWE. Reproduction or representation, either totally or partially, of the web site or of any of the elements therein, as well as their modification, is strictly forbidden. The trademarks and domain names shown in the LOEWE web site are the exclusive property of LOEWE

Any unauthorized reproduction or use of these trademarks or domain names, regardless of their form or intent, is strictly forbidden. LOEWE has applied all reasonable means to ensure the information obtained in the web site is accurate. However, we make no guarantee about the accuracy, integrity and updating of said information

LOEWE provides no warranty, either express or implied, regarding all or part of its web site. LOEWE will not be liable under any circumstance for any direct or indirect damage, regardless of its nature, resulting from your use of the website. The 'LOEWE' trademark, the logo of the four Ls, and the rest of the brands and logos related with LOEWE, whether registered or not, that are displayed on the www.loewe.com web site, as well as the LOEWE.com domain name, are and will remain the exclusive property of LOEWE S.A. Any reproduction, distribution, transmittal, modification or use of these trademarks without the prior written consent from LOEWE S.A is forbidden

You may not eliminate any reference to copyrights, trademarks or any other indication regarding intellectual property rights contained in the www.loewe.com web site, or any other content included therein. You may create copies of the web pages published in the www.loewe.com web site for private and personal use and not for profit or commercial use, as long as any copies of said web pages retain all copyright or proprietary notifications and the rest of the intellectual property notifications contained therein

The LOEWE S.A. ('LOEWE') web site, with headquarters in Madrid, Calle Goya 4, 28001 Madrid, with tax ID CIF-A-28003861 and included in the Madrid Mercantile Register in Volume 335, Page 194, Sheet M-6657, is original creative work protected by the laws of intellectual property protection. The web site, as well as all the elements therein, is the exclusive property of LOEWE. Reproduction or representation, either totally or partially, of the web site or of any of the elements therein, as well as their modification, is strictly forbidden. The trademarks and domain names shown in the LOEWE web site are the exclusive property of LOEWE. Any unauthorized reproduction or use of these trademarks or domain names, regardless of their form or intent, is strictly forbidden. LOEWE has applied all reasonable means to ensure the information obtained in the web site is accurate. However, we make no guarantee about the accuracy, integrity and updating of said information. LOEWE provides no warranty, either express or implied, regarding all or part of its web site. LOEWE will not be liable under any circumstance for any direct or indirect damage, regardless of its nature, resulting from your use of the web site

Applicable legislation, jurisdiction and controversies

These Terms and Conditions shall be governed by the legislation of Spain

The European Commission offers an online platform to resolve legal disputes, which can be found at https://ec.europa.eu/consumers/odr/main/index.cfm?event=main.home2.show&lng=ES. LOEWE does not participate, nor is it obligated to participate, in any dispute settlement procedure in the presence of an alternative dispute resolution body as per Law 7/2017, of 2 November, incorporating into the Spanish legal system the 2013/11/EU Directive of the European Parliament and Council, of 21 May 2013, relative to alternative dispute resolution with regard to consumer affairs, and the (EU) Regulation no. 524/2013 of the European Parliament and Council, of 21 May 2013

In the absence of an amicable settlement, the parties shall submit themselves for conflict resolution to the competent courts in the place of residence of the consumer or the place of residence of LOEWE, by choice of the consumer

Both access to the web site and use of its contents are subject to the conditions set out in the Terms and Conditions of use of the LOEWE web site.

Limitation of liability

LOEWE S.A. does not guarantee or state that the www.loewe.com web site is free of viruses, worms, Trojans or other types of destructive material

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The first LOEWE store to specialise in repairing and maintaining LOEWE leather items, LOEWE ReCraft opens at Hankyu Umeda, Osaka, with a full-time leather artisan.

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A crop of fashion accolades have been awarded to fashion brands, recognising progress in circularity and other sustainability goals. It's a double-edged sword, experts say.

To become a Vogue Business Member and receive the Sustainability Edit newsletter, click here.

Gucci went home with a prestigious award over the weekend, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation Award for Circular Economy at the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards in Milan. Critics, however, are quick to point out that in fashion today, there's no circular economy to speak of - at Gucci or anywhere else.

The prize was awarded specifically for a recent denim project by the Kering-owned brand that incorporated regeneratively grown cotton with post-consumer recycled fibres. In 2024, it will include a digital product passport to trace the journey from raw materials to manufacturing and production, as well as provide information about product care and repair services.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the London-based organisation created in 2010 specifically to accelerate a shift towards a circular economy - and chair of the Sustainable Fashion Awards jury - advises Italy's governing fashion body Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) on the criteria for selecting award winners. The circular economy award was meant to recognise companies that, according to Ellen MacArthur Foundation project manager Matteo Magnani, apply the three principles of a circular economy to their business at scale: product durability, keeping products in use, and sourcing raw materials in ways that regenerate nature rather than harm it. Ideally, the winner applies "all of the principles, not just one of the principles", he says, and has proven them at scale rather than in a one-off pilot.

However, while Gucci's efforts are significant - along with those of other award finalists Chloé and ACS Clothing, recognised for their strides to use durable, traceable, safe and recycled materials in denim and for building a platform that enables brands and retailers to offer rental, repair and resale services - they do not amount to a circular model. (Gucci declined to be interviewed for this story.)

The CNMI awards are not alone. The Council of Fashion Designers of America gives awards for sustainability, as does the British Fashion Council, and independent groups have their own awards initiatives, such as the Green Carpet Fashion Awards from consultancy Eco-Age and the Redress Design Award from Hong Kong non-profit Redress - not to mention brands and companies such as Kering and H&M doling out their own accolades.

For experts, that raises some difficult questions: is it appropriate to celebrate progress when there's still so much more work to do? And who gets to do the celebrating?

"This is a double-edged sword. We need to be talking about and celebrating circularity whenever we can, to get consumers engaged [and] educated to make real change. But, the wins are still so small in comparison to the multitude of things society and particularly fashion are looking past every day," says Geren Lockhart, independent consultant, and CEO and co-founder of "profit-for-purpose" apparel brand Canava. "Across their businesses, [Kering has] catalysed more than almost any other entity for a decade or more. Can they do more? Yes. Should they do more? Yes. Should they move a million times faster than they are? Yes."

Others say that while it's important to recognise progress, the climate and other environmental crises are so dire that celebrating baby steps when complete transformation is what's needed risks distracting attention and resources from the work itself - or, worse, being counterproductive to the task at hand.

"Authentic fashion circular systems remain exceptionally rare and exaggerated claims can divert attention from the hard work of decarbonisation and ecosystem preservation that needs to occur deep within supply chains," says Ken Pucker, professor of the practice at the Fletcher School at Tufts University.

Redesigning business models, not just products

Katia Dayan Vladimirova, senior lecturer at the University of Geneva and founder of the Sustainable Fashion Consumption research network, worries that awards with bold, sweeping titles such as circular economy, and giving them to large brands that have admirable projects but have not changed their overall business models, end up creating the false impression that fashion is further along on sustainability than it is.

"We're looking at some small part [of the circle] - not a full loop. We're not looking at the takeback scheme. We're not looking at recycling. The fact that [a company is] using recycled content doesn't mean that this content comes from their resources," she says. "The idea of a fully circular brand is when the brand manages to loop in its own used resources - [and] at the end of life, they would be recycled again."

Magnani, who heads the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's relationship with CNMI on the awards, acknowledges that the award recognises Gucci's adoption of specific circular principles - which represent progress towards a more circular system, but do not translate to full circularity. "The reality is, today, the industry is still very much linear. An organisation can even apply all the principles - keeping products in use, durability, regenerative sourcing - and the product may still end in a system that is fundamentally linear," he says. "There is a long way to go, but we think what we've seen with these awards, [they] can set the direction of travel for the rest of the industry."

He acknowledges that industry-wide, there is more progress towards certain aspects of circularity - in the product design stage, for instance - while there's largely a standstill on others, end-of-life in particular. Getting customers to be engaged, and building the infrastructure and logistics capacity to take products back and process them for recirculation is where the industry still has much work to do.

"What we've seen very much in practice and at scale is the redesign of products. What we haven't seen, and that may be where the bar gets raised in the future, [is that] we need to not only recognise efforts on product redesign, but also business model redesign - changing the way the customers of this industry deal with products," says Magnani.

"The idea of a circular economy was born within industry and is heavily focused on production, while true circularity must involve the end user," says Cosette M Joyner Martinez, associate professor of fashion merchandising at Texas State University. "Gucci relates the experience of emotional durability to the importance of product testing. However, emotional durability is an idiosyncratic experience that occurs among clothing users."

For Joyner Martinez, that's an indication that many luxury brands are evolving the product design process to align with circular principles but not yet connecting it "to the actual system in which these designs are acquired, used, and reused", she says. And, while brands may offer repairs, she's unconvinced that this is shifting consumer expectations or behaviour in any meaningful way. "There is little evidence that it is encouraging brands to take responsibility for their products after sale. Until this industry connects the faucet to the hose, real circularity, as nature does it, will be impossible."

That doesn't mean there's no room for celebration. Experts just question the merits of placing major brands in the spotlight for work that represents a fraction of their businesses - especially when there is so much potential to uplift both the small or independent brands that are dedicated to operating in a fundamentally different manner, as well as the people and organisations throughout the supply chain that are doing the work that enables brands to claim progress in the first place.

That, says Lockhart, is where an award could offer potential for meaningful impact.

"If recognition moves the needle inside the prominent players to expand on the work they are being celebrated for or if it incentivises their competition to meet and beat them, I find it hard to say we shouldn't be celebrating the ones doing the early, complex, expensive work when it is this deep," she says. However, she adds: "Wouldn't it be great if instead of a big gala to host the awards, the organisations invested those resources to benefit some of the stakeholders further down the supply chain for the winning projects as a part of the award - at the farm, mill and factory level. That would feel like a new world of 'awards' and could translate into consumer engagement and goodwill that can't be bought."

Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
More from this author: Can fashion ever quit fossil fuels? India's Ōshadi Collective renews its fashion credentials The world is taking action on plastic pollution. Where is fashion?

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The problem with fashion's sustainability awards

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A crop of fashion accolades have been awarded to fashion brands, recognising progress in circularity and other sustainability goals. It's a double-edged sword, experts say.

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Meet Our New Burberry Ambassador

Son Heung-min

South Korean football star Son Heung-min doesn't do things by halves. Despite some early obstacles, Heung-min persevered, making a name for himself in his home country, before moving to the UK to play for the Premier League.

As the winner of the prestigious Golden Boot award, Heung-min is rapidly establishing himself as one of the greatest players in the world. A forward for Tottenham Hotspur and captain of the South Korean football team, the Korean football star inspires others with his pioneering sporting spirit.

Constantly breaking boundaries, his career is a shining example of using the freedom of our imaginations to move beyond expectations and discover new and exciting horizons.

We spoke to our new Burberry Ambassador about his journey, future goals, advice for aspiring football stars and more.

'When I was a child, I was excited to just see the soccer ball and followed it wherever it went. That excitement still remains today.'

Actually, I was quite blind to the subject before participating in WFP and was very fortunate to be properly introduced to the programme. After learning the seriousness of global hunger and food shortages, I could not stop [helping] as the situation was more severe than I thought. It's not right to not help when you know there is a problem out there and you can do something to solve it. I have a feeling that a lot of people are like me - some are not able to help because they are not aware of the problem. So, it's important that we actively learn about our world. And I believe in the 'snowball effect' - when everyone comes together, we will be able to make a huge difference.

The reason why I started playing football was because my father was working as a football coach and I was naturally exposed to the football field and soccer balls. According to my parents, when other kids played with toys, I only played with a soccer ball. After becoming close to the sport, I officially started to play it in my third year of elementary school. I started playing because it was very natural to me, not because I was good at it. And I do not think I play football because I have a special talent at it. However, I can confidently say that I love it more than anyone else. When I was a child, I was excited to just see the soccer ball and followed it wherever it went. That excitement still remains today.

It feels really incredible! I feel very grateful that fashion brands are interested in me even though this is not my area of expertise. I always think about how I can do better to suit to the brand because I feel it's a huge honour.

My style is very simple. I like to wear just a plain T-shirt with jeans. Even when I go to training, I just like to wear slippers. And it's the same with my lifestyle - it's very uncomplicated.

When I first came to England, I had the opportunity to tour the Burberry factory. It's been a very long time, so I cannot remember exactly which factory it was, but I remember it was a joyful time. It feels very surreal that I have become Burberry's ambassador. I am happy to join the Burberry family also because I am playing in the English Premier League. I always want to express my gratitude to British people for the support and love they give me. I will work hard to convey Burberry's messages and for the brand to shine.

I don't think my goal has changed just because I won the Golden Boot. Ever since I was little, I was always told to dream big. I think when you dream big, it gives you the strength and the motivation to work hard towards the dream. My dream is still the same as when I was a kid, it is to become the best football player in the world.

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Meet Our New Burberry Ambassador | Burberry® Official

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We are proud to welcome South Korean football star Son Heung-min as our new Burberry Ambassador. Read our exclusive interview here.

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Blurring the boundaries between fashion and sports, luxury fashion brands align seamlessly with the realm of professional athletes. Beyond the world of athlete fashion by renowned sports brands such as Nike, Adidas and Puma, the magnetic allure of these highly driven and top-shaped individuals captivate the crème de la crème of fashion's elite.

As top athletes embody the epitome of dedication, discipline and raw talent, they resemble the values and identity of esteemed fashion brands. Together they forge an unstoppable fusion that transcends red carpets and ignites media platforms. Here are nine athletes who are the faces of top luxury fashion brands.

Carlos Alcaraz for Louis Vuitton

At just 19 years old, Carlos Alcaraz is the youngest World No. 1 in tennis history. This recently crowned Wimbledon champion is also the newest house ambassador for Louis Vuitton. Embodying the values of excellence, skill and endeavour, it is without a doubt that he is the perfect Ambassador for the Maison. The fusion of Louis Vuitton and the sports industry is a captivating union that showcases the impeccable blend of style and physical prowess.

Jannik Sinner for Gucci

Defying the long-standing tradition of all-white attire, Italian tennis sensation Jannik Sinner made his grand entrance onto the grass-clad courts donning a pristine white ensemble, accompanied by a custom Gucci duffle bag,

Breaking a tradition which has lasted since the 19 th century, it was the first time a player was allowed to bring a non-white accessory onto the prestigious court. This marks an incredible progressive approach to on-court uniforms and embracing a new era of style.

Charles Leclerc for Richard Mille

Scuderia Ferrari Formula 1 driver Charles Leclerc's journey from karting to the world of Formula 1 has been closely intertwined with luxury watch brand Richard Mille. Since 2011, Richard Mille has been a steadfast supporter of Leclerc's career. They both share the values of heartfelt passion and driving innovation. This enduring partnership has thrived over the years, with Leclerc proudly sporting the RM 67-02 prototype, a testament to the fusion of transformation and precision. Together, Charles Leclerc and Richard Mille have reshaped the landscape where motorsport and horology converge, leaving an indelible mark on both worlds. Read more on their story.

Eileen Gu for Tiffany & Co.

At just 19 years old, Eileen Gu, an Olympic gold medallist in freestyle skiing, is an ambassador for Tiffany and Co. As a symbol of strength and innovation, she made her debut in the brand's latest "Give Me The T" campaign shot by legendary fashion photographer Mario Sorrenti in New York City.

Alongside her athletic accomplishments, she is a professional model and will soon begin her university studies at Stanford. Eileen's rise to fame has captivated millions, with the hashtag #GuEileenReceivesGoldMedal amassing 3.5 billion views on Weibo, China's equivalent of Twitter, solidifying her influence on the community.

Shuyu Yang for Prada

Marking a shift towards athletes rather than celebrities, Prada has secured Chinese basketball player Shuyu Yang as their brand ambassador. Yang gained national acclaim for her pivotal role in securing a bronze medal for China in the women's 3×3 basketball tournament at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo.

With her gender-neutral appearance, she has garnered a devoted following similar to esteemed figures like Dior's China ambassador, Liu Yuxin. Last year, Prada's Douyin campaign featured three notable Chinese Olympic athletes: Gong Lijiao, Li Zhixuan, and Xiong Dunhan. The brand's decision to team up with Yang is part of its strategy to increase its sports partnerships in China. This is demonstrated by its previous collaboration with the Chinese Women's Soccer Team.

Kylian Mbappé for Hublot

With a partnership that began in 2018, Kylian Mbappé, the football sensation, has ascended to the ranks as a brand ambassador for Hublot. Beyond his ambassadorial role, Mbappé has embarked on an extraordinary journey with Hublot's designers, culminating in the creation of a limited-edition collection of watches, including the coveted Big Bang Unico 42mm King Gold Mbappé timepiece. This collaboration not only solidifies Mbappé's influence in the world of football but also showcases his indelible mark on the realm of high-end horology.

Son Heung-min for Calvin Klein

Son Heung-min, the celebrated South Korean football player and national captain, took the fashion world by storm as he got comfortable in his Calvins. Known for being the first Asian player to win the Premier League Golden Boot, Son exuded confidence and his impeccable physique during Calvin Klein's Fall '22 collection campaign. Among the styles he represents is the sustainable Embossed Icon line, made with recycled materials. Son joins fellow South Korean superstar Jennie from BLACKPINK in the Calvin Klein family. Alongside his Calvin Klein partnership, Son's brand ambassador roles with Burberry and Tumi have catapulted him into the global spotlight, solidifying his status as a revered figure both on and off the football field.

Matteo Berrettini for BOSS

The talented tennis player has taken the helm as the esteemed face of BOSS watches. Since his introduction as a Global Brand Ambassador in January of the previous year, he has effortlessly represented BOSS both on and off the court, solidifying his status as a trusted brand advocate. Now, he takes centre stage in the captivating Spring/Summer 2023 watches and jewellery campaign, showcasing the latest collection with his innate charm and style. Berrettini's association with BOSS goes beyond ambassadorship, as he has fostered a deep connection with the brand, becoming a cherished friend. This special bond is exemplified by his very own Boss x Matteo Berrettini collection, a testament to his influence and shared values.

Ashleigh Johnson, Ruth Mwandumba and Marcel Nguyen for Lacoste.

In a union between sports and style, French fashion label Lacoste has proudly welcomed three exceptional Olympic athletes into its fold as brand ambassadors. Ashleigh Johnson, the accomplished water polo player hailing from the USA, joins forces with British shooter Ruth Mwandumba and German gymnast Marcel Nguyen, collectively embodying the spirit of athleticism and elegance that Lacoste represents.

This collaboration celebrates the harmonious convergence of sporting excellence and timeless fashion, bridging the gap between the worlds of competitive sports and high-end style. Together, these extraordinary athletes bring renewed energy and passion to the iconic Lacoste brand, inspiring individuals around the world with their remarkable achievements and unwavering dedication.

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Nine Athletes Redefining Style: The Faces of Fashion Brands

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From Carlos Alcaraz to Shuyu Yang, here are nine athletes who conquer the sporting arena and the fashion world.

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Hublot, Swiss watch brand, representing the Art of Fusion in watches. Collections of luxury watches for men and ladies, reflecting Swiss watchmaking excellence.

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Ledger

Ledger is the smartest, design-forward way to secure, buy, exchange, and grow your crypto assets. Protect your crypto and NFTs while propelling the revolution of web3. Financial freedom at your fingertips.

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Fendi x Ledger: the new world for physical and virtual luxury | Ledger

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Fendi x Ledger is the new world for physical and virtual luxury

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STORY

Cristiano Ronaldo is a long-standing and close partner to Jacob & Co. He and Founder and Chairman Jacob Arabo have established a strong relationship based in trust and respect over the past twenty years. Jacob Arabo met Cristiano Ronaldo when the Madeira-born football player was a promising rising star and their friendship has never failed ever since.

Both men immediately found common ground in their quest for excellence. They crafted their success from the ground up and achieved it through relentless determination and work. Their relationship has now grown into a business venture in which Jacob & Co designs and manufactures timepieces after the image of Cristiano Ronaldo, which are co-branded by both powerhouses.

A CELEBRATION OF CRISTIANO RONALDO

The Jacob & Co x CR7 Epic X collection is a profoundly personalized version of the Epic X. It has all its identity markers : a 44 mm case with X-shaped lugs, a smooth and polished bezel and a colored crown and flange. It's powered by one of Jacob & Co's most emblematic calibers. This skeleton movement offers a striking architecture. Its two vertical pillars form the central part of the X shape initiated by the lugs, whose entire design gave the name Epic X.

In the Jacob & Co x CR7 Epic X collection, these two pillars are designed to represent Cristiano Ronaldo and the CR7 brand. The left pillar takes on the shape of Cristiano Ronaldo himself in various postures while the right one bears the CR7 logo and the man's hand-signature, both engraved in bold letters. The skeleton barrel cover is shaped like a football. Another image of Cristiano Ronaldo himself, wearing his iconic, lucky number 7 jersey, is silver-printed on the caseback's tainted sapphire crystal.

SKELETONIZED MOVEMENT

Caliber JCAM45 is an integral part of the Jacob & Co x CR7 Epic X identity. It was designed as a skeleton from inception. It benefits from a free, graphic structure. The wide barrel at 12 o'clock and balance wheel at 6 o'clock define the caliber's verticality. It is enhanced by the vertical bridges that run along them. The left pillar takes on the shape of Cristiano Ronaldo himself wearing his lucky number 7 jersey.

Caliber JCAM45 is openworked to the extreme. What's left of the black-plated surfaces of the mainplate is finished with perlage (circular graining), sandblasting and vertical-graining. A look at the movement's back reveals the characteristic "Octopus" spring, with three extremely thin and elegantly curved blades, whose shape is a testament to the haute horlogerie calling of the Jacob & Co x CR7 Epic X.

CASE DESIGN

The Epic X V2 most striking update is the new shape of the case. The once stepped bezel is flush and polished. The X-shaped lugs are full and flush, and begin slightly above the sapphire crystal. Their ends are angular and vertical, creating a perfect fit for the strap.

The caseband extends far outside the case's circle to create a set of crown guards. In between them, a redesigned crown exhibits a two-level, notched steel tip. Its basis introduces a new design principle : the Epic X now features several colorful components, crafted out of aluminum.

An identical color is applied to the flange, which also bears a redesigned typeface. To the satin-finished edges on the two vertical bridges, the body of the X. And more discretely, to their underside, visible only though the sapphire caseback, beyond the maze of components of calibre JCAM45.

DIAL AND HANDS

As a skeleton timepiece, the Jacob & Co x CR7 Epic X doesn't have a dial per se. A full, decorated plate would block the view on the calibre, which is a major attraction. Yet, Jacob & Co.'s design sense led to the integration of vertical bridges. They may be part of the movement, but they fill one of the dial's roles.

If you have any questions, queries or comments, please feel free to get in touch and our team will be delighted to help you.

Flagship Boutique
/ Corporate Office

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Cristiano Ronaldo is a long-standing and close partner to Jacob & Co. He and Founder and Chairman Jacob Arabo have established a strong relationship based in trust and respect over the past twenty years. Jacob Arabo met Cristiano Ronaldo when the Madeira-born football player was a promising rising star and their frienship has never failed ever since.

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On Friday, Tiffany & Co announced that it will for the first time serve as an official partner of the Shanghai Marathon. At the end of the month, the top three finishers of the race in both the men's and women's categories will all receive medals designed by the luxury brand. That same day, Chanel held its cruise show in Shenzhen, creating its own version of a basketball court for the runway.

These types of marketing links between fashion and sport are now commonplace around the world but, in China, they have reached fever pitch as luxury brands pursue related strategies including the hiring of local athletes as brand ambassadors.

For example, Chinese surfer Guo Shujuan has partnered with Chanel, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, while appearing on local editions of Vogue, Elle, Harper's Bazaar and Marie Claire. In an early move in the space, Christian Dior cast Winter Olympics speed skating champion, Zhong Hong and rhythmic gymnast, Zhang Doudou alongside other female athletes for a 2021 ad.

Looking to broaden their appeal in the all-important market and mitigate the risks associated with scandal-prone entertainers, brands see athletes as more wholesome and disciplined alternatives.

Epitomised by the likes of Eileen Gu, the Olympic freestyle skier who represents Estée Lauder, Louis Vuitton and Victoria's Secret among others, sports stars typically promise brands enviable physiques to show off their clothes, shaped through hard work, grit and determination, and are also usually from more relatable backgrounds than performers.

"Nowadays, luxury brands choose to work with more... athletes [through] endorsement marketing with two main purposes: firstly, to enhance the brand's positive image; the second is to transform the followers of sports stars into potential fans of the brand," said Stella Song, founder of Socialight, a Shanghai-based communications and digital marketing agency that works with companies like Net-a-Porter and JW Anderson.

The pitfalls of scandal-prone entertainers

Although a country as large as China has always had a thick web of sociocultural and political issues to navigate, there is a sense in fashion marketing circles that it has gotten more complicated in recent years - and a feeling of exasperation among brands that extensive due diligence on celebrities does little to head off controversy. In part, that is because even seemingly small infractions can cause controversy.

Chinese actress Angelababy and K-pop group Blackpink member Lisa recently both had their social media accounts abruptly shut down by the Chinese government, reportedly over the authorities' objection to Lisa's performances at the burlesque show Crazy Horse in Paris. Although the venue issued a statement saying that Angelababy was not present at the show, that did not stem online backlash that the show is too risque or deemed morally corrosive to Chinese society.

By contrast, one of the most egregious examples of a celebrity brand ambassador gone wrong is Kris Wu, now serving out a 13 year jail sentence for rape. He was closely associated with Louis Vuitton but had a string of lucrative deals from many top brands including Bulgari, Lancôme and L'Oréal, who moved quickly to drop him.

But when it comes to brand ambassadorships in China, Prada has had a tougher run of it than most. Online observers have suggested that the Italian luxury brand was cursed, or at the very least unlucky, in recent years as one celebrity partner after another found themselves mired in controversy.

There was actress Zheng Shuang, whose Prada ambassadorship lasted just nine days, after she was embroiled in a surrogacy scandal. Last year, another one of its ambassadors, actor Li Yifeng, got the axe just 10 months into his contract after he was detained on prostitution charges. Actor-singer Cai Xukun, who has helped to revive the brand in China since 2019, has also not been immune. This summer, he was accused of forcing a woman to get an abortion, something he denied. So far, his contract remains intact.

Prada did not respond to a request for comment in time for publication but the brand's latest marketing moves speak volumes about the need for a change of tack.

In June, as the world geared up for the women's football World Cup, Prada said it would serve as the official partner for the Chinese national team. The public reacted with delight that their "steel roses," as the team is affectionately known, would be dressed by Prada and the hashtag #PradaFoundTheRightPerson began trending on social media platform Weibo, gaining 140 million views.

Besides the women's soccer team, Prada signed table tennis player Ma Long, an emblematic figure of his generation, in January, and basketball player Yang Shuyu in May. It also shot a campaign for Douyin, the short-video platform owned by TikTok parent Bytedance, with four female Olympians - shotput athlete Gong Lijiao, marathon runner Li Zhixuan, water polo player Xiong Dunhan and basketball star Yang Shuyu - showcasing a diverse range of body types.

Patriotic public figures of substance

While athletes are seen by many as a category of public figures less prone to scandal than their counterparts in entertainment fields like cinema, television and music, no category is completely immune. Olympic Chinese table tennis player Zhang Jike was caught in controversy over a sex tape this April but, in general, the strict training schedules in which athletes abstain from drinking and partying for much of the year make them a safer bet in the eyes of marketing partners.

What's more, sports stars are considered patriotic figures since they frequently represent their nation in competition, meaning they also help Chinese government-aligned goals like promoting healthier lifestyles among the population. Between 2017 and 2020, the number of national sports venues increased by 89.7 percent in the country.

With so much institutional investment in sport, China is producing a greater number of high-calibre sports stars. Tennis player Zhang Zhizhen in July became the first Chinese man to break into the top 100 world rankings, also becoming the highest ever ranked male Chinese tennis player. Meanwhile, 13-year-old Cui Chenxi won gold in women's skateboarding at the Asian Games this fall.

Sport is also seen as a more meritocratic pursuit than entertainment where the talent shortcomings of so-called "nepo babies," children of celebrities who are increasingly common in modelling and acting, can often be concealed by post-production.

Brands are not the only fashion businesses expanding their muse repertoire. Vogue China editor-in-chief Margaret Zhang said on a recent episode of the magazine's podcast that she wants "to showcase talent who can be role models for our audience regardless of their discipline or craft or industry."

For September, Zhang dedicated the title to sports stars tied to the Asian Games, which concluded in October in Hangzhou. "Are they a person of substance? The level of dedication that athletes need to have, it's really worth celebrating in Vogue."

The shift to sportsmen and women is also happening at a time, in which China's biggest influencers have taken hits to their reputations. Famous online faces like Li Jiaqi (aka Austin Li), Viya and Cherie have all suffered scandals and, although they have returned to livestreaming, their activities have been much more subdued.

The high cost associated with entertainers is another consideration for the switch to alternative endorsers like athletes.

"The typical top-tier [entertainment industry] celebrity endorsement fee is usually over ten million yuan ($1.3 million)," Song said. "So once the brand chooses a celebrity... they face the risk of the [financial outlay going to waste during a scandal as the] brand's image [is] linked to the celebrity's personal reputation."

By diversifying their celebrity marketing strategies to include athletes, luxury brands can essentially spread their investment risk.

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Why Luxury Brands Are Pivoting to Athletes

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In the key China market, sports stars are an increasingly popular choice for luxury brands aiming to broaden their appeal while limiting their exposure to scandal-prone entertainers.

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To get a snapshot of fashion's sports-marketing playbook in 2023, start with the tie-up between Louis Vuitton and LeBron James.

The NBA star recently became a new face of the brand, appearing in a campaign that popped up on billboards in New York on Oct. 24. But it was James' entry into Denver's Ball Arena that night for his team's season opener that caused the bigger stir. For the walk from the parking lot to the locker room he wore a reported $28,000 of Louis Vuitton designed by its new menswear chief, Pharrell.

In a collaborative post, James and Pharrell shared an image of the moment on Instagram. Louis Vuitton, on its official account, instead of using the glossy campaign image also posted a shot of James' arrival.

At the other end of the spectrum is an emerging name like Shedeur Sanders, quarterback for American college football's Colorado Buffaloes, who in July shared a post sponsored by Urban Outfitters to his Instagram.

As detailed in BoF's latest case study, fashion has fully woken up to sport's massive marketing potential. By 2030, the global sport-sponsorship market is expected to reach $109.1 billion, up from $63.1 billion in 2021, according to PwC. Driving it is not just the record viewership of sporting events but also the unprecedented star power of athletes.

That's thanks in large part to social media, which lets sports stars connect with fans in ways they couldn't previously and lets fans track players off the field. Deloitte has found approximately 80 percent of Gen-Z fans follow a professional athlete online, which can influence the brands they follow and the products they buy.

Fashion has become a vital piece of an athlete's image and branding, enabled by moments like the tunnel walk, pictures of which frequently circulate online. Former NBA player JJ Reddick once griped that some athletes even seem more concerned with getting a pregame fit on Instagram than winning.

"You stress over outfits for days," Golden State Warriors star Stephen Curry told the New York Times in 2016, during his team's battle against LeBron James and the Cleveland Cavaliers for the NBA championship, "and you wind up wearing it for 30 seconds when you walk from the parking lot to the locker room."

While this overlapping of fashion and sports isn't totally new, it's reached novel heights in recent years. Athletes who grabbed attention with their style like Joe Namath, the former American football quarterback who turned heads with his big fur coats, or Dennis Rodman, the gender-bending former basketball player, were once the exception. These days you're as likely to see Formula 1 driver Lewis Hamilton or an NFL player like Travis Kelce, the Kansas City Chiefs tight end who's dating Taylor Swift, turn up in a full designer look as not.

And they will, of course, post that look to Instagram.

The rise of social platforms gave athletes new tools to build themselves as brands separate from their teams and sports by letting them offer fans more access to their lives on and off whatever playing surface they compete on. Chinese-American skier Eileen Gu, for instance, probably posts as many photos of travelling and attending events, including the runway shows she sometimes walks in, as she does of her time on the slopes.

As of 2021, US college athletes such as gymnast Livvy Dunne were able to start making money from their names and images as well, opening up the opportunity for brand endorsements. Some can make as much as $25,000 for a TikTok post, according to Bloomberg.

It creates a natural opportunity for fashion businesses to work themselves into posts that can help them reach audiences that can be far larger than their own in some cases. James' follower count on Instagram totals 158 million as of this writing, compared to Louis Vuitton's 54.7 million. Dior (45.4 million followers) has similarly teamed with athletes like football phenom Kylian Mbappé (109 million followers). The most-followed person on the platform remains Cristiano Ronaldo (611 million followers).

Much as the news that Skims had become the official underwear partner of the NBA may have surprised people, it probably shouldn't have. If anyone understands the value of high-profile personalities with giant social followings, it would be Skims co-founder Kim Kardashian.

As the BoF case study makes clear, however, it's not enough for brands to sign up an athlete ambassador and wait for the sales to roll in. Brands need to make sure there's alignment between their audiences and the following of the athlete or sport they're teaming with. They will also want to think about creative ways of partnering with sports stars, which could include launching products.

Athletes need content for their Instagram posts, after all.

Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders' documentation guaranteeing BoF's complete editorial independence.

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How Social Media Turned Athletes Into Fashion Marketing Machines

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Platforms like Instagram let sports stars connect with fans in ways they couldn't previously, while helping to make fashion a vital element of an athlete's image and branding.

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Louis Vuitton Hotel Paris

Bulgari Hotel London etc

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Luxury brands collaborating with modern artists/brands

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Luxury brands collaborating with modern artists/brands

# data[].attributes.body
(Idea of old money with new money)

Audemars Piguet with Travis Scott

Jacob&Co with Cristiano Ronaldo

Louis Vuitton x Supreme

Loewe x On Running

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Brands acquiring influencers as marketing tools to reach a greater exposure amongst young people

Tube girl --> Valentino etc.

Khwami --> Boss

TikTok, Instagram

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Ryan Garcia is upping his style game as he gears up for his next fight.

The boxer has teamed with Dior to create his robe and boxing trunks as he prepares to take on a tough opponent in Javier Fortuna on Saturday at the Crypto.com Arena in Los Angeles.

The look, custom- designed by artistic director of men's Kim Jones, is created from white duchess silk satin distinguished by the classic allover Dior oblique pattern and is adorned with blue leather ornamentation embossed with a gauffered python motif.

Additionally, more than 3,000 Swarovski rhinestones in crystal, clear sapphire, cobalt and Montana were hand-embroidered one by one, meant to create a hypnotic interplay of reflections. To finish the look, the sides of the shorts are lined with navy blue silk fringes.

"The final touch to the silhouette is a bespoke hand-beaten copper crown dreamed up by Dior's milliner Stephen Jones, plated with real silver to produce an elegant patina," said a statement from Dior. "Gems recalling vintage clothes and jewelry from the 1960s enhance this exceptional piece, further embellished by a lion's head, the boxer's emblem."

The French luxury fashion house's logo and words "King Ryan," as Garcia is known on social media, are emblazoned in the same material.

This marks the first time that Dior has dressed a boxer specifically for their fight.

"I've been a fan of Dior men and Kim Jones ' vision for many years," Garcia said. "I'm honored to be the first pro boxer to be dressed by Dior men in the ring, and look forward to a thrilling unification of sport and style at my fight."

Recently, Garcia has worked closely with Dior and Jones, attending the fashion house's men's resort 2023 show in Venice, California in May.

Saturday's fight marks one of Garcia's higher-stakes fights since taking a year off boxing to focus on his mental health. He revealed his official return in February and took on his first opponent since his return in Emmanuel Tagoe in April, defeating him in two rounds.
PHOTOS: Front Row at Dior Men's Resort 2023

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Boxer Ryan Garcia to Fight in Dior Outfit With Rhinestones Against Javier Fortuna

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Boxer Ryan Garcia teamed with Dior and Kim Jones to design his outfit for his fight against Javier Fortuna, scheduled for Saturday.

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Any form of AI used to aid within the fashion industry

Make designs

Elevate customer experience (Smart mirrors etc)

Help business tailor their selection to specific customers

etc.

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Luxury Brands' presence in other industries

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Luxury Brands' presence in other industries

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Presence of brands at art fairs, sports events and concerts etc.

Rolex --> Tennis

Breguet --> FRIEZE

Louis Vuitton --> Football

Dior --> Boxing

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It's no surprise to see the likes of LeBron James and Lewis Hamilton mingle with the stars at Paris Fashion Week. But lately, even rookies and unfamiliar athletes in niche sports have found their way to the front rows of Louis Vuitton and Moncler.

The brands are happy to have them: Emerging athletes can serve as effective brand ambassadors, as the proliferation of streaming and social media has allowed them to cultivate international followings.

For athletes, an endorsement deal with a luxury brand could be a lucrative second revenue stream and can help develop their commercial prospects long beyond their sporting career. Attending shows - and being seen as a fashion insider - is an important first step.

At Louis Vuitton's men's show in June, Marcus Rashford of Manchester United Football Club shared a red carpet moment with Kim Kardashian. Track star Alica Schmidt has walked the runway for Hugo Boss at Milan Fashion Week twice.

Later this month, rising French rugby player Cameron Woki is expected to attend the Sacai and Botter runway shows at Paris Fashion Week, and track-and-field athlete Elodie Clouvel will attend that of Patou, according to Frederic Vilches, co-founder of Paris-based sports-fashion agency L'AM.

As the fashion and sports industries continue to converge, it will likely become the norm to see all types of athletes flock to fashion weeks, especially in June when many leagues are in their off-season.

"Brands need athletes in their universe," said Nayaab Tania, founder of London-based agency 9inety6ix. "They're ready-made ambassadors who wear a brand's clothing because they genuinely love it, and can have more of an organic influence than content creators whose job it is to be there."

Tania's firm provides a range of services to elite Europe-based footballers and rappers, including image consultancy, personal shopping, editorial placements and procuring invites to fashion shows. She placed Rashford and fellow Premier League footballer Saïd Benrahma at the Moncler Genius showcase in London last year. This month, seven of Tania's clients will attend shows across Milan and Paris.

Whereas in the past, athletes were seen only at the biggest brands, today they're also looking to attend shows of smaller, indie brands and emerging designers as a way of cementing their fashion-insider status. In June, at Pitti Uomo - fashion's nerdiest menswear convention typically reserved for industry insiders like buyers and sales agents - NBA player Myles Turner attended ERL's runway show before heading to shows in Milan and Paris.

A New Class of Dealmakers

Fashion's deepening ties with sport has given rise to a fast-growing network of start-up agencies and image consultants such as Tania and Vilches - many of whom are former sportspeople or agents themselves - dedicated to bridging the gap between the two industries, acting as vital conduits between athletes and fashion brands.

The author has shared an Instagram Post. You will need to accept and consent to the use of cookies and similar technologies by our third-party partners (including: YouTube, Instagram or Twitter), in order to view embedded content in this article and others you may visit in future. Accept

Former US national team footballer Danny Williams is one such person. Since retiring from football three years ago, Williams has quickly built a reputation for his fast-growing, Paris-based streetwear label, Beautiful Struggles. His experience has made him well placed to help fashion brands navigate working with athletes, whilst simultaneously aiding sportspeople make connections in the fashion industry. In June, he worked alongside fellow former footballer-turned-creative director David Bellion to take popular German footballer Leroy Sané around Paris Fashion Week, sitting front row at shows such as Kenzo and Taiwanese menswear label Namesake.

Demand for these kinds of services is soaring, as more athletes - and more brands - are looking to work together during fashion week.

"I'm now in conversations weekly with footballers from all over, asking me how to get invites to certain shows, how they can begin to break into the fashion industry and work with brands," Williams said.

Seeking Emerging Athletes

While big-name athletes are increasingly interested in attending the shows of indie brands, established labels are also looking beyond sports like basketball and football to work with less conventional athlete names.

Discovering lesser-known, successful athletes from niche sports with small but engaged audiences is becoming more of a priority as brands get savvier about the world of sport, said Vilches, who also counts Olympic champion judoka Teddy Riner among his clients.

In the eyes of some fashion houses, there is as much value in "discovering" an emerging talent with an inspiring story rather than breaking the marketing budget to sign a popular athlete who already works with several brands, Vilches explained.

"When you work with Hermès, for example, they do not care how many followers an athlete has or the size of their online audience," he said. "It's more about how their image, their career achievements and their discipline fit with what the brand wants to reflect," he said.

Vilches and his team work on "image architecture" for such athletes, helping to position them as fashion tastemakers over two to three years, directing the content they post on social media, the events they attend, the brands they wear, and educating them on the fashion industry to transform them into ideal partners in the eyes of brands.

"Cameron Woki is the perfect example of the work we do," Vilches said. "When we first started working with him, he was unknown outside of rugby in France. Now he has a great relationship with Jonathan Anderson and Loewe and sits front row at fashion week."

Rules of the Game

Working with athletes at fashion week, however, is not all smooth sailing.

This month, the men's shows in Milan and Paris will feature fewer athletes than in June, because it falls right in the middle of most professional sports seasons.

"For brands, understanding how intense these players' lifestyles, training regimes and media commitments are on a daily basis, is essential if you want to work with them," said Tania. "A lot of the time they can't make engagements at the last minute, because of changes mandated by their team or a competition."

Aside from getting to grips with athletes' relentless schedules, brands must also understand the added complications of working with athletes in certain sports, such as football, where fan culture can sometimes influence the boundaries of a player's social life.

This time last year, German footballer Serge Gnabry of Bayern Munich found himself taken out of the team starting the next game - and labelled by his sporting director as "amateurish" - after he made the short trip from Munich to Paris on his day off to attend the fashion week shows of KidSuper and Namacheko. Several of the comments under his Instagram post showing off his front row looks demonstrated the tension athletes still face when exploring their interests in fashion. "Please don't play with the team if [you] continue to do this," one comment read; another user demanded "more football, less lifestyle," with a series of angry-face emojis.

"Sometimes if an athlete or their club isn't performing well, we literally cannot put any brand work out on their social media because of the negative reaction it will get from fans," Tania said. "It's common that entire projects are scrapped because of it."

But times are changing, albeit slowly, as sporting organisations increasingly embrace collaboration with the fashion industry.

"Perceptions of the role of athletes have changed massively in the last two to three years," said Williams, the former footballer, who alongside David Bellion recently co-founded Ultra, an agency designed to help fellow athletes boost their profile and secure commercial opportunities in the creative industries. "The culture that was pioneered by athletes in the NBA and NFL has helped both brands and fans realise the potential of sportspeople beyond their day jobs."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How Athletes Became Fashion Week Royalty

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It's not just sports superstars sitting front row at fashion week. Today, luxury labels are looking to work with emerging athletes from niche sports, giving rise to new dealmakers who match brands with eager skateboarders, boxers and rugby players.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
It's no surprise to see the likes of LeBron James and Lewis Hamilton mingle with the stars at Paris Fashion Week. But lately, even rookies and unfamiliar athletes in niche sports have found their way to the front rows of Louis Vuitton and Moncler.

The brands are happy to have them: Emerging athletes can serve as effective brand ambassadors, as the proliferation of streaming and social media has allowed them to cultivate international followings.

For athletes, an endorsement deal with a luxury brand could be a lucrative second revenue stream and can help develop their commercial prospects long beyond their sporting career. Attending shows - and being seen as a fashion insider - is an important first step.

At Louis Vuitton's men's show in June, Marcus Rashford of Manchester United Football Club shared a red carpet moment with Kim Kardashian. Track star Alica Schmidt has walked the runway for Hugo Boss at Milan Fashion Week twice.

Later this month, rising French rugby player Cameron Woki is expected to attend the Sacai and Botter runway shows at Paris Fashion Week, and track-and-field athlete Elodie Clouvel will attend that of Patou, according to Frederic Vilches, co-founder of Paris-based sports-fashion agency L'AM.

As the fashion and sports industries continue to converge, it will likely become the norm to see all types of athletes flock to fashion weeks, especially in June when many leagues are in their off-season.

"Brands need athletes in their universe," said Nayaab Tania, founder of London-based agency 9inety6ix. "They're ready-made ambassadors who wear a brand's clothing because they genuinely love it, and can have more of an organic influence than content creators whose job it is to be there."

Tania's firm provides a range of services to elite Europe-based footballers and rappers, including image consultancy, personal shopping, editorial placements and procuring invites to fashion shows. She placed Rashford and fellow Premier League footballer Saïd Benrahma at the Moncler Genius showcase in London last year. This month, seven of Tania's clients will attend shows across Milan and Paris.

Whereas in the past, athletes were seen only at the biggest brands, today they're also looking to attend shows of smaller, indie brands and emerging designers as a way of cementing their fashion-insider status. In June, at Pitti Uomo - fashion's nerdiest menswear convention typically reserved for industry insiders like buyers and sales agents - NBA player Myles Turner attended ERL's runway show before heading to shows in Milan and Paris.

A New Class of Dealmakers

Fashion's deepening ties with sport has given rise to a fast-growing network of start-up agencies and image consultants such as Tania and Vilches - many of whom are former sportspeople or agents themselves - dedicated to bridging the gap between the two industries, acting as vital conduits between athletes and fashion brands.

The author has shared an Instagram Post. You will need to accept and consent to the use of cookies and similar technologies by our third-party partners (including: YouTube, Instagram or Twitter), in order to view embedded content in this article and others you may visit in future. Accept

Former US national team footballer Danny Williams is one such person. Since retiring from football three years ago, Williams has quickly built a reputation for his fast-growing, Paris-based streetwear label, Beautiful Struggles. His experience has made him well placed to help fashion brands navigate working with athletes, whilst simultaneously aiding sportspeople make connections in the fashion industry. In June, he worked alongside fellow former footballer-turned-creative director David Bellion to take popular German footballer Leroy Sané around Paris Fashion Week, sitting front row at shows such as Kenzo and Taiwanese menswear label Namesake.

Demand for these kinds of services is soaring, as more athletes - and more brands - are looking to work together during fashion week.

"I'm now in conversations weekly with footballers from all over, asking me how to get invites to certain shows, how they can begin to break into the fashion industry and work with brands," Williams said.

Seeking Emerging Athletes

While big-name athletes are increasingly interested in attending the shows of indie brands, established labels are also looking beyond sports like basketball and football to work with less conventional athlete names.

Discovering lesser-known, successful athletes from niche sports with small but engaged audiences is becoming more of a priority as brands get savvier about the world of sport, said Vilches, who also counts Olympic champion judoka Teddy Riner among his clients.

In the eyes of some fashion houses, there is as much value in "discovering" an emerging talent with an inspiring story rather than breaking the marketing budget to sign a popular athlete who already works with several brands, Vilches explained.

"When you work with Hermès, for example, they do not care how many followers an athlete has or the size of their online audience," he said. "It's more about how their image, their career achievements and their discipline fit with what the brand wants to reflect," he said.

Vilches and his team work on "image architecture" for such athletes, helping to position them as fashion tastemakers over two to three years, directing the content they post on social media, the events they attend, the brands they wear, and educating them on the fashion industry to transform them into ideal partners in the eyes of brands.

"Cameron Woki is the perfect example of the work we do," Vilches said. "When we first started working with him, he was unknown outside of rugby in France. Now he has a great relationship with Jonathan Anderson and Loewe and sits front row at fashion week."

Rules of the Game

Working with athletes at fashion week, however, is not all smooth sailing.

This month, the men's shows in Milan and Paris will feature fewer athletes than in June, because it falls right in the middle of most professional sports seasons.

"For brands, understanding how intense these players' lifestyles, training regimes and media commitments are on a daily basis, is essential if you want to work with them," said Tania. "A lot of the time they can't make engagements at the last minute, because of changes mandated by their team or a competition."

Aside from getting to grips with athletes' relentless schedules, brands must also understand the added complications of working with athletes in certain sports, such as football, where fan culture can sometimes influence the boundaries of a player's social life.

This time last year, German footballer Serge Gnabry of Bayern Munich found himself taken out of the team starting the next game - and labelled by his sporting director as "amateurish" - after he made the short trip from Munich to Paris on his day off to attend the fashion week shows of KidSuper and Namacheko. Several of the comments under his Instagram post showing off his front row looks demonstrated the tension athletes still face when exploring their interests in fashion. "Please don't play with the team if [you] continue to do this," one comment read; another user demanded "more football, less lifestyle," with a series of angry-face emojis.

"Sometimes if an athlete or their club isn't performing well, we literally cannot put any brand work out on their social media because of the negative reaction it will get from fans," Tania said. "It's common that entire projects are scrapped because of it."

But times are changing, albeit slowly, as sporting organisations increasingly embrace collaboration with the fashion industry.

"Perceptions of the role of athletes have changed massively in the last two to three years," said Williams, the former footballer, who alongside David Bellion recently co-founded Ultra, an agency designed to help fellow athletes boost their profile and secure commercial opportunities in the creative industries. "The culture that was pioneered by athletes in the NBA and NFL has helped both brands and fans realise the potential of sportspeople beyond their day jobs."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How Athletes Became Fashion Week Royalty

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
It's not just sports superstars sitting front row at fashion week. Today, luxury labels are looking to work with emerging athletes from niche sports, giving rise to new dealmakers who match brands with eager skateboarders, boxers and rugby players.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
For as long as longhaired Cali dudes have been grinding around empty swimming pools and taking to the swell with D.I.Y surfboards, fashion has longingly looked at underground cultures to try and replicate the authentic fan support pervading them. Whilst high-fashion houses invest millions to carefully curate their 'carefree' aesthetic, the homegrown brands of the surf community focus purely on creating quality products that reflect the happy-go-lucky humbleness of their consumer, rather than trying to shape their desires around the 'next new thing'. This open and often more honest relationship between surfer and surf brand has formed a family of surfwear companies that continue to craft effortlessly styleable pieces that shape fashion trends around the globe.

So why does the fashion industry continue to bang on the beach-hut door of the surfwear aesthetic? Well, much like we concluded in our previous Skate culture and fashion analysis, a large portion of the industry interest can be explained by the simple fact that surfers are cool! Their easy-breezy attitude towards life and lack of interest in 'looking cool' embodies the same anti-establishment attitude akin to the underground cultures of Punk-Rock music and Graffiti. Of course, given the hilariously paradoxical and ironic nature of the fashion industry, fashion houses have now long been investing fortunes to cultivate a carefree character with varying degrees of success. Because nothing says carefree like spending millions on a rebrand.

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THE INTRIGUING RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FASHION & SURF CULTURE - Culted

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Whilst high-fashion houses invest into a 'carefree' aesthetic, the homegrown brands of the surf community focus on creating quality products.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
For as long as longhaired Cali dudes have been grinding around empty swimming pools and taking to the swell with D.I.Y surfboards, fashion has longingly looked at underground cultures to try and replicate the authentic fan support pervading them. Whilst high-fashion houses invest millions to carefully curate their 'carefree' aesthetic, the homegrown brands of the surf community focus purely on creating quality products that reflect the happy-go-lucky humbleness of their consumer, rather than trying to shape their desires around the 'next new thing'. This open and often more honest relationship between surfer and surf brand has formed a family of surfwear companies that continue to craft effortlessly styleable pieces that shape fashion trends around the globe.

So why does the fashion industry continue to bang on the beach-hut door of the surfwear aesthetic? Well, much like we concluded in our previous Skate culture and fashion analysis, a large portion of the industry interest can be explained by the simple fact that surfers are cool! Their easy-breezy attitude towards life and lack of interest in 'looking cool' embodies the same anti-establishment attitude akin to the underground cultures of Punk-Rock music and Graffiti. Of course, given the hilariously paradoxical and ironic nature of the fashion industry, fashion houses have now long been investing fortunes to cultivate a carefree character with varying degrees of success. Because nothing says carefree like spending millions on a rebrand.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
THE INTRIGUING RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FASHION & SURF CULTURE - Culted

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Whilst high-fashion houses invest into a 'carefree' aesthetic, the homegrown brands of the surf community focus on creating quality products.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Italian fashion label Prada is teaming up with China's women's national soccer team in another partnership with Chinese female athletes.

The brand is further building its portfolio of sports partnerships at a time when another Prada celebrity brand ambassador is embroiled in a high-profile sex scandal.

Prada announced the partnership on Monday, in which it will provide traveling and formal event outfits for the squad and staff to "give the team a modern and stylish appearance off the field." The deal was announced as the women's team set off for the FIFA Women's World Cup beginning July 20 in Australia and New Zealand.

Nicknamed the "Steel Roses," the national women's soccer team has seen its commercial value increase after winning the Asian Cup last year. The team now counts 19 sponsors and partners, from insurance company Ping An to car brand Roewe.

The national women's soccer team is the latest Chinese female sports outfit to partner with Prada. Basketball player Yang Shuyu signed on as a brand ambassador in May, after appearing in a Prada campaign on Douyin last year with shot-putter Gong Lijiao, marathon runner Li Zhixuan, and water polo player Xiong Dunhan.

"In general, athletes can attract a larger audience than certain celebrities, and the traits of perseverance and dedication that these athletes exhibit can be effective in enhancing the brand image," Pablo Mauron, partner & managing director for China at Digital Luxury Group, an online marketing agency for luxury companies, told Sixth Tone.

Mauron added that foreign brands collaborating with Chinese athletes can better resonate with domestic consumers amid Chinese consumers' growing patriotism.

The trend has further accelerated on the back of several high-profile scandals involving Chinese celebrity ambassadors for foreign luxury brands. Prada has cut ties with disgraced actors Zheng Shuang and Li Yifeng in recent years, while brand ambassador Cai Xukun is currently fighting off allegations that he forced a woman to have an abortion after a one-night stand.

Other luxury brands have also suffered similar scandals in recent years, including Louis Vuitton cutting ties with pop idol Kris Wu over his rape conviction and Bulgari cutting ties with actor Deng Lun for tax evasion.

"In the face of potential celebrity backlash, relying on an athlete with a more transparent reputation may be perceived as a risk-averse approach," Mauron explained.

Although luxury brands partnering with athletes is still more common in the West, there have been several high-profile cases in China in recent years. Olympic gold medalist freeskiing sensation Eileen Gu has become the face of Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, and Victoria's Secret, while surfer Guo Shujuan has partnered with Chanel, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger.

Though most athletes do not have as high a commercial value as celebrities, at least in the short term, they may be a better fit for luxury brands' marketing in the long term, Mauron explained.

Online, people have hailed Prada's new partnership since it was announced, with the hashtag "Prada found the right person this time" going viral with more than 110 million views on microblogging platform Weibo as of Tuesday afternoon.

Netizens have mocked the brand for the string of scandals involving its brand ambassadors in recent years, calling it the "Prada endorsement curse."

"It's a good thing they didn't choose the men's team, otherwise the curse would continue!" a Weibo influencer posted, referring to the scandal-ridden national men's soccer team.

Editor: Vincent Chow.
(Header image: Members of the Chinese women's national soccer team in Prada outfits. From @Prada普拉达 on Weibo)

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Prada Shifts Focus From Celebrities to Athletes, Partners With Chinese Women's Soccer Team

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The Italian fashion label has had to cut ties with several celebrity brand ambassadors over major scandals in recent years. It's now partnering with more athletes instead.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Italian fashion label Prada is teaming up with China's women's national soccer team in another partnership with Chinese female athletes.

The brand is further building its portfolio of sports partnerships at a time when another Prada celebrity brand ambassador is embroiled in a high-profile sex scandal.

Prada announced the partnership on Monday, in which it will provide traveling and formal event outfits for the squad and staff to "give the team a modern and stylish appearance off the field." The deal was announced as the women's team set off for the FIFA Women's World Cup beginning July 20 in Australia and New Zealand.

Nicknamed the "Steel Roses," the national women's soccer team has seen its commercial value increase after winning the Asian Cup last year. The team now counts 19 sponsors and partners, from insurance company Ping An to car brand Roewe.

The national women's soccer team is the latest Chinese female sports outfit to partner with Prada. Basketball player Yang Shuyu signed on as a brand ambassador in May, after appearing in a Prada campaign on Douyin last year with shot-putter Gong Lijiao, marathon runner Li Zhixuan, and water polo player Xiong Dunhan.

"In general, athletes can attract a larger audience than certain celebrities, and the traits of perseverance and dedication that these athletes exhibit can be effective in enhancing the brand image," Pablo Mauron, partner & managing director for China at Digital Luxury Group, an online marketing agency for luxury companies, told Sixth Tone.

Mauron added that foreign brands collaborating with Chinese athletes can better resonate with domestic consumers amid Chinese consumers' growing patriotism.

The trend has further accelerated on the back of several high-profile scandals involving Chinese celebrity ambassadors for foreign luxury brands. Prada has cut ties with disgraced actors Zheng Shuang and Li Yifeng in recent years, while brand ambassador Cai Xukun is currently fighting off allegations that he forced a woman to have an abortion after a one-night stand.

Other luxury brands have also suffered similar scandals in recent years, including Louis Vuitton cutting ties with pop idol Kris Wu over his rape conviction and Bulgari cutting ties with actor Deng Lun for tax evasion.

"In the face of potential celebrity backlash, relying on an athlete with a more transparent reputation may be perceived as a risk-averse approach," Mauron explained.

Although luxury brands partnering with athletes is still more common in the West, there have been several high-profile cases in China in recent years. Olympic gold medalist freeskiing sensation Eileen Gu has become the face of Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, and Victoria's Secret, while surfer Guo Shujuan has partnered with Chanel, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger.

Though most athletes do not have as high a commercial value as celebrities, at least in the short term, they may be a better fit for luxury brands' marketing in the long term, Mauron explained.

Online, people have hailed Prada's new partnership since it was announced, with the hashtag "Prada found the right person this time" going viral with more than 110 million views on microblogging platform Weibo as of Tuesday afternoon.

Netizens have mocked the brand for the string of scandals involving its brand ambassadors in recent years, calling it the "Prada endorsement curse."

"It's a good thing they didn't choose the men's team, otherwise the curse would continue!" a Weibo influencer posted, referring to the scandal-ridden national men's soccer team.

Editor: Vincent Chow.
(Header image: Members of the Chinese women's national soccer team in Prada outfits. From @Prada普拉达 on Weibo)

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Prada Shifts Focus From Celebrities to Athletes, Partners With Chinese Women's Soccer Team

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The Italian fashion label has had to cut ties with several celebrity brand ambassadors over major scandals in recent years. It's now partnering with more athletes instead.

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If 2023′s biggest flameouts taught the fashion industry anything, it's that companies neglect their brand identity at their own peril.

Farfetch's fire sale to Coupang, had many causes, but a big one was its inability to build a cohesive brand identity, even as it built a commanding lead in the luxury e-commerce market. Allbirds, which sold truckloads of wool runners via ubiquitous social media ads, saw its stock sink to record lows. Amyris, which banked on celebrities to lure in consumers to its beauty products, filed for bankruptcy in August.

To survive - let alone thrive - in today's market, nothing is more important than marketing that shapes a brand's long-term reputation. Look at brands like Abercrombie: In the 2010s, its reputation had tanked due to a series of public controversies, but it has since mounted a turnaround by ditching its exclusionary image, refreshing its product lineup and courting older consumers that already had an affinity for the brand. Or Chanel, which has succeeded for decades by embracing the brand's original codes, such as tweed and camellia flowers, while updating the designs for the modern consumer.

A brand or product may be omnipresent on Instagram or TikTok feeds, but without a deeper meaning behind it, that visibility will only take a company so far. Performance marketing (marketing methods where brands only pay based on results received, as is common in social media advertising) is still an important part of any company's marketing mix. In 2024, it should be used to amplify an extensive brand marketing strategy, rather than serve as its foundation.

This trend is only expected to continue into 2024 as the wider economic landscape remains uncertain, making it increasingly difficult to capture consumer attention. This year, marketers need to think about brand as the muscle behind everything they do, from large-scale campaigns and events to short-term social media ads users can swipe away with a tap of a screen.

"Consumers are making more considered choices, and if you haven't done the work to connect with them on that level, then you end up getting swept away by your competition," says Sarah Grech, brand voice lead at ad agency Mother Design.

Back to Brand Basics

Brand marketing is about telling a story. And what story your brand tells all comes down to its purpose.

"Any brand starts with an idea, and ideas that become brands evolve," Gap Inc. chief executive Richard Dickson said on stage at BoF VOICES in December. "Evolution keeps the brand relevant, but purpose makes a brand immortal."

It's a topic he knows well: Dickson, who previously served as the president of Mattel, where he oversaw the evolution of the Barbie brand, which, when he joined the company in 2014, was outdated and underperforming. In harnessing its purpose - empowerment of young girls - while pushing the brand to embrace a more modern sensibility, it was able to return to success, culminating in the release of the blockbuster "Barbie" film earlier this year.

Now, he's attempting to do the same with another iconic American brand that's lost its way - Gap.

Purpose isn't necessarily about aligning with a philanthropic cause or social movement; it can mean creating effective skincare with safe ingredients or designing the perfect T-shirt. Marketing should reflect that purpose, which can then be amplified in several ways: Through big-ticket campaigns, but also on social media or events.

For menswear brand Mizzen+Main, that's meant reflecting how customers use their product in their advertising.

"We know that our customer is a working man ... part of reaching [our core customer] is understanding what he does and how he engages with our hero product, a performance dress shirt," said chief marketing officer Bethany Muths.

The brand hosts a video series called "Thanks for the Time," where three men - wearing Mizzen+Main apparel and holding microphones featuring the brand's logo - discuss "water cooler"-esque topics, such as methods for doing math equations in their heads or hotel hygiene. And when Mizzen+Main did a pop-up coffee truck to build awareness, it set up shop in the heart of Dallas' downtown office district, where they could catch working men on their lunch break.

Conceptualising that story is one thing, determining where to tell it is another. As marketers prioritise their brand marketing strategies, they should also consider new channels - or using their pre-existing channels in different ways - to meet their customer where they already are.

"Right now, you're seeing a ton of ads, and the ones that are really cutting through are those that are really savvy, showcasing content in a way that feels deeply personal, genuine and well researched," said Jamie Wachlarz, chief marketing officer at influencer talent management agency Estate Five.

In influencer marketing, Wachlarz said, that means partnering with creators that already have been evangelising your brand and allowing them to flex their creative muscle in crafting the content. Brands can also use influencers not just for their influence, but to create user-generated content that they can then run on different platforms, which will bring a more personal touch to a brand's social media ads.

While shifting approaches on pre-existing channels matters, Erin Kleinberg, founder of agency Métier Creative and body care label Sidia, said it's also about appearing in the places that customers want to see them. For her brand Sidia, that means top-tier spas, such as at the Beverly Hills Hotel, or in the locker rooms at cult-favourite fitness classes like Tracy Anderson.

"It's like, 'Oh my god, I love this brand and it's showing up everywhere where I am,'" she said.

Brands Under Pressure

Marketers will undoubtedly face renewed pressure from their finance departments to justify their spending in the face of a more challenging macroeconomic environment. They have to balance that reality with the fact that even with the strongest brand marketing strategies, it takes time to fully see the impact on the brand's bottom line.

Jon Claydon, chief development officer at affiliate management agency Acceleration Partners, recommends brands take a page out of the performance marketing playbook to measure the effectiveness of brand marketing efforts, even in their early stages. Looking at metrics such as brand lift - positive momentum around consumer perception of a brand - and brand awareness can help demonstrate progress. That can be measured with a number of tools, such as TribeDynamics' earned media value and Launchmetrics' media impact value, both of which determine the online chatter and impact around a particular campaign, product or viral moment for a brand.

Still, brands shouldn't feel that they need to perfect their brand marketing strategies before beginning to publicly experiment. The best brands, according to Ben Hennes, chief creative officer and co-owner of creative agency Happylucky, have the sort of relationship with their consumers that makes them feel they're a part of the brand they're shopping.

"As long as brands have a real understanding of their purpose and existence in the world, I don't think they have to go dark for years before they come out with something," he said. "They can start to have a real conversation with consumers and just be really transparent about who they are and how they're marketing."

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Even amid financial pressure, in 2024, marketers should focus on the strength of their brand, not the number of clicks on their Instagram ads.

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The fashion industry is heading for a reality check. By the end of 2024, self- regulation of sustainability may no longer be an option. Many new rules around the world are set to mandate action on everything from textiles production and chemicals use to recycling and waste.

While some industry progress is evident, the pace of transformation falls short of what is needed to prepare for impending regulations. Across the industry, the polluting use of fossil fuels continues to dominate production while circular business models are still in their infancy. If progress continue at the current pace, clothing and footwear consumption is expected to increase by over 60 percent, from 62 million tonnes in 2022 to 102 million tonnes in 2023.

With the industry struggling to move forward, regulators are stepping in. Leading the charge is the EU as it pursues a vision for a climate-neutral, circular economy, with growth decoupled from the consumption of finite resources. The EU's textiles vision is encapsulated in its Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, passed in June 2023, which envisages an industry defined by products made with respect for the environment and social rights. As many as 16 pieces of legislation are currently under discussion, with the first coming to force in 2024. The window for brands to prepare to comply is narrowing quickly.

The Heat is On

With fashion responsible for significant emissions, pollution and waste, regulators are set to require companies to both fix their own operations and force higher standards in their supply chains. The regulations apply across key areas of activity, impacting consumers and companies within and outside the EU.

Product design: Up to 80 percent of a product's environmental impact is determined in the design phase and is baked into materials and dyes. The EU's flagship Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), set to come into full effect by 2025, sets minimum design standards for all individual products sold within the EU. This includes requirements around recyclability, durability, reusability, repairability and use of hazardous substances. Digital product passports that collect and share this information with consumers are expected to become required by law.

Marketing: Greenwashing is high on consumer and regulatory agendas, with the claims of many companies seen as vague or misleading. The new EU Green Claims Directive curbs greenwashing by requiring sustainability-related declarations and statements to be specific, backed by evidence, verified by independent bodies and communicated clearly. France has already taken the first step, requiring large companies to put carbon labels on all clothing sold in the country.

Waste management: Less than 1 percent of fashion textiles are recycled and a truckload of products are sent to landfill or incinerated somewhere in the world every second. An amendment to the Waste Framework Directive is calling for Extended Producer Responsibility, which already exists in France, and which requires companies to finance the collection, sorting and recycling of textile waste. Fees are expected to vary based on production output and pollution levels caused, a principle known as "eco-modulation." All EU countries will be required to launch textile collection programmes by 2025 and the destruction of unsold goods is expected to be banned.

Reporting: Despite huge volumes of corporate environment, social and governance (ESG) disclosure, companies still struggle to secure sufficient data and performance metrics or define economic activities that can be considered sustainable. A lack of comparability across brands inhibits effective decision making among investors and consumers. The upcoming Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) requires companies to report on ESG activities via a standardised framework. Meanwhile, the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive mandates environmental and human rights diligence and action plans across the value chain.

Notably, the requirement for standardised, comprehensive public disclosures has become a lightning rod of debate in the fashion industry, with some executives concerned about the amount of data and analysis required. At a recent conference, the head of sustainability at Puma said that the brand had been publishing reports for 20 years but was "nowhere near being able to fulfil the requirements of CSRD."

The impact of the EU's new rules are expected to extend beyond the region's borders, especially into Asia, where 70 percent of the EU's textiles are manufactured. In addition, lawmakers in other regions are progressing their own initiatives. In the US, the New York Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act plans to hold major brands accountable for ESG impacts and supply-chain traceability. In the UK, the Green Claims Code aims to stem greenwashing, while China has committed to peaking carbon emissions before 2030 and become carbon neutral by 2060.

As the regulatory landscape evolves, the year ahead presents an opportunity for fashion executives to revamp their business models. But this will likely require a holistic approach rather than targeting select parts of the value chain.

Traceability: Achieving full supply-chain visibility across all tiers of manufacturing will be a critical enabler for regulatory compliance. However, many brands currently have limited visibility over their suppliers at best, and therefore lack reliable and standardised data to make meaningful progress. Advances in blockchain and other technologies may enable more transparent and efficient monitoring. Adidas, for example, has achieved material traceability at scale by using TrusTrace's digital traceability platform, which is also used by companies including Renfro Brands and Brooks Running.

Sourcing and production: As upstream supply-chain activities account for the majority of carbon emissions in apparel, there may be a sharper focus on decarbonising material and garment production. In the production process, main decarbonisation levers include energy efficiency and energy transition initiatives. As brands shift to more sustainable materials, they may look for new suppliers or join strategic alliances. Kering, for example, has established supplier-focused sourcing standards and created the Material Innovation Lab dedicated to the sourcing of sustainable materials and fabrics, while Hermès has partnered with start-up MycoWorks' to secure access to its engineered mycelium.

Design: New requirements for circularity are expected to shake up the design process. For example, a focus on longevity and durability may demand fresh attention to details such as stitching and seams. Equally, materials that cannot be separated in recycling may need to be avoided, meaning designers may need to think more creatively about design choices. Design libraries may increasingly support material selection, while 3D sampling may reduce use of resources. Packaging design is also impacted, with new rules emerging around composition of labels and tags and elimination of single-use plastics.

End-of-life waste: To minimise production and waste, new business models are coming to the fore. Resale continues to grow through brand partnerships with secondhand marketplaces, such as The RealReal or Vestiaire Collective. In-house programmes offering resale, rental and repair are gaining traction as well. There is also an opportunity to accelerate closed-loop recycling. Stockholm-based Renewcell is ramping up the world's first at-scale fibre-to-fibre recycling factory. In partnership with global brands like H&M, Inditex and Levi's, Renewcell plans in 2024 to reach full capacity of 120,000 tonnes, or the equivalent to 600 million T-shirts. Fully embedding these new materials into supply chains remains a challenge, however - Renewcell recently cited slower-than-expected sales of its cellulosic pulp to fibre producers.
This article first appeared in The State of Fashion 2024, an in-depth report on the global fashion industry, co-published by BoF and McKinsey & Company.

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The Year Ahead: What to Expect as New Sustainability Rules Roll In

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The State of Fashion 2024′s essential guide to incoming sustainability regulation reveals how and why retailers, brands and manufacturers need to revamp business models to align to a shifting regulatory landscape.

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The technology that owned 2023 was undoubtedly AI. ChatGPT debuted just before the start of the year, kicking off a race among tech giants to integrate or match its capabilities. Soon, brands had started to use generative AI for design and marketing, retailers were unveiling conversational chatbots and technology providers introduced tools to speed up tasks like writing product descriptions.

But it wasn't the only technology to have an impact. NFT projects may have dried up, but the blockchain technology underlying them found new users. Nike launched one of the industry's biggest web3 projects to date, releasing the first blockchain-based virtual goods under its name. It just didn't call them NFTs. Brands also ramped up efforts to create digital product passports for their physical goods as coming EU regulations take shape.

Technology played a variety of roles beyond these efforts. On the customer-facing front, brands leaned into virtual spaces like Roblox, while they sought better ways to track and manage inventory on the backend with RFID. Competition in fashion is as fierce as ever, and companies will keep looking to technology for any edge they can get.

Top Stories

Case Study | The Complete Playbook for Generative AI in Fashion: From ChatGPT to Midjourney to Runway, the emerging technology is already showing why it could be one of the most consequential in decades for the fashion industry. Early adopters and experts unpack the opportunities and challenges of putting gen AI to use to design products, create campaigns and other content, and better connect with customers.

AI Takes on the Fashion Industry's Counterfeit Problem: LVMH's Patou has begun rolling out a new AI-powered authentication system with its technology partner Ordre, adding a new dimension in fashion's effort to fight fakes using AI's ability to spot patterns indiscernible to humans.

Millions of Luxury Products Now Come With Unique Digital Passports. Here's What That Means.: Brands are starting to adopt the tags in large numbers as they prepare to meet major new EU regulations coming down the pipeline. They're using the opportunity to build in customer-facing features that can appeal to shoppers, too.

RFID's 'Quiet Revolution' in Retail: Zara, Uniqlo and American Eagle are among those leaning on the technology for abilities like self-checkout and better inventory tracking, while more companies join the 'cult of RFID' each year.

Inside the Battle to Run Fashion's E-Commerce: Shopify, Farfetch and other tech companies are vying for the multi-billion-dollar opportunity to handle the backend of brands' online stores.

Do Brands Need Chief Digital Officers?: The role is changing as fashion companies break "digital" responsibilities out of their siloes, leading some to rethink the position.

The BoF Podcast | How to Turn Our Fear of AI Into Optimism: Mo Gawdat, an artificial intelligence expert and former chief business officer of Google X, explains how humans have the power to turn AI into a positive force that benefits society.

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In the year since it exploded onto the market, generative AI is already promising to reshape how brands create products and interact with customers. But it's not the only technology that had an impact in 2023.

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Chapter 3: Fragmentation and Commodity Markets: Vulnerabilities and Risks

Russia's invasion of Ukraine caused major commodity markets to fragment, and geopolitical tensions could make matters worse. Chapter 3 examines how further disruptions in commodity trade could affect commodity prices, economic activity, and the energy transition. The chapter reaches four conclusions. First, commodities are particularly vulnerable to fragmentation due to concentrated production, hard-to-substitute consumption, and their critical role for technologies. Second, further fragmentation would cause large swings in commodity prices and more volatility. Third, commodity trade disruptions would have highly uneven impacts across countries, though global losses appear moderate given offsetting effects across countries. Low-income countries would bear a disproportionate share of the economic cost, due to their high reliance on agricultural imports. Fourth, fragmented minerals markets would make the energy transition more costly, reducing investment in renewables and electric vehicles by one-third by 2030 in an illustrative scenario. A green corridor agreement could guarantee the international flow of critical minerals. Similar agreements for essential food commodities could stabilize agricultural markets. Such agreements would safeguard the global goals of averting climate change and food insecurity.

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global growth; inflation; economic projection; inflation expectations; monetary policy; geoeconomic fragmentation; commodity prices

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World Economic Outlook, October 2023: Navigating Global Divergences

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The latest  World Economic Outlook reports signs that policy tightening is starting to cool activity despite core inflation proving persistent. Risks are more balanced as banking sector stress has receded, but they remain tilted to the downside.

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The 25th anniversary of the euro

The value of unity

EU Sustainable Investment Summit 2024

Autumn 2023 Economic Forecast

A modest recovery ahead after a challenging year

The digital euro // Safeguarding cash

Recovery and Resilience Scoreboard

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News article

In December 2023, the Economic Sentiment Indicator (ESI) increased in both the EU (+1.8 points to 95.6) and the euro area (+2.4 points to 96.4). The Employment Expectations Indicator (EEI) picked up moderately in the EU (+0.5 points to 102.4) and remained virtually stable in the euro area (+0.1 poin

News article

In December 2023, DG ECFIN's flash estimate of the consumer confidence indicator increased further, by 1.5 percentage points (pps.) in the EU and 1.8 pps. in the euro area. At 16.0 (EU) and 15.1 (euro area) pps., consumer confidence still scores below its long-term average.

News article

In November 2023, the Economic Sentiment Indicator (ESI) improved mildly in both the EU (+0.5 points to 93.7) and the euro area (+0.3 points to 93.8).The Employment Expectations Indicator (EEI), by contrast, eased moderately in both areas (EU: -0.5 points to 101.8, euro area: -0.7 points to 102.1).

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Thursday 25 January 2024, 13:45 - 17:55 (CET)

Thursday 21 March 2024, 09:00 - 18:45 (CET)

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Scientific paper

Francesca D'Auria, Rafal Raciborski, Anna Thum-Thysen , Directorate-General for Economic and Financial Affairs, Christophe Planas, Alessandro Rossi, Joint Research Centre

This paper analyses the robustness of the trend-cycle decomposition of total factor productivity which is involved in the estimation of potential growth and output gap in the EU Member States in application of the EU's Commonly Agreed Methodology.

Report

Directorate-General for Economic and Financial Affairs

This edition analyses three aspects of the possible macroeconomic consequences of the tightening of financing conditions in the euro area following the surge in inflation since mid-2021.

News article

In December 2023, the Economic Sentiment Indicator (ESI) increased in both the EU (+1.8 points to 95.6) and the euro area (+2.4 points to 96.4). The Employment Expectations Indicator (EEI) picked up moderately in the EU (+0.5 points to 102.4) and remained virtually stable in the euro area (+0.1 poin

News article

In December 2023, DG ECFIN's flash estimate of the consumer confidence indicator increased further, by 1.5 percentage points (pps.) in the EU and 1.8 pps. in the euro area. At 16.0 (EU) and 15.1 (euro area) pps., consumer confidence still scores below its long-term average.

News article

In November 2023, the Economic Sentiment Indicator (ESI) improved mildly in both the EU (+0.5 points to 93.7) and the euro area (+0.3 points to 93.8).The Employment Expectations Indicator (EEI), by contrast, eased moderately in both areas (EU: -0.5 points to 101.8, euro area: -0.7 points to 102.1).

Thursday 25 January 2024, 13:45 - 17:55 (CET)

Thursday 21 March 2024, 09:00 - 18:45 (CET)

Brussels, Belgium

Scientific paper

Francesca D'Auria, Rafal Raciborski, Anna Thum-Thysen , Directorate-General for Economic and Financial Affairs, Christophe Planas, Alessandro Rossi, Joint Research Centre

This paper analyses the robustness of the trend-cycle decomposition of total factor productivity which is involved in the estimation of potential growth and output gap in the EU Member States in application of the EU's Commonly Agreed Methodology.

Report

Directorate-General for Economic and Financial Affairs

This edition analyses three aspects of the possible macroeconomic consequences of the tightening of financing conditions in the euro area following the surge in inflation since mid-2021.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Chapter 3: Fragmentation and Commodity Markets: Vulnerabilities and Risks

Russia's invasion of Ukraine caused major commodity markets to fragment, and geopolitical tensions could make matters worse. Chapter 3 examines how further disruptions in commodity trade could affect commodity prices, economic activity, and the energy transition. The chapter reaches four conclusions. First, commodities are particularly vulnerable to fragmentation due to concentrated production, hard-to-substitute consumption, and their critical role for technologies. Second, further fragmentation would cause large swings in commodity prices and more volatility. Third, commodity trade disruptions would have highly uneven impacts across countries, though global losses appear moderate given offsetting effects across countries. Low-income countries would bear a disproportionate share of the economic cost, due to their high reliance on agricultural imports. Fourth, fragmented minerals markets would make the energy transition more costly, reducing investment in renewables and electric vehicles by one-third by 2030 in an illustrative scenario. A green corridor agreement could guarantee the international flow of critical minerals. Similar agreements for essential food commodities could stabilize agricultural markets. Such agreements would safeguard the global goals of averting climate change and food insecurity.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.keywords[]
global growth; inflation; economic projection; inflation expectations; monetary policy; geoeconomic fragmentation; commodity prices

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
World Economic Outlook, October 2023: Navigating Global Divergences

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The latest  World Economic Outlook reports signs that policy tightening is starting to cool activity despite core inflation proving persistent. Risks are more balanced as banking sector stress has receded, but they remain tilted to the downside.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Louis Vuitton reveals plans for its first ever hotel in Paris

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The Parisian fashion house has announced plans to open its first ever hotel in 2026 - here’s what we know so far.

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10 Cafés Around The World Owned By Luxury Fashion Brands

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Dine like fashion royalty and rub shoulders with trendsetters in these couture eateries that pay homage to the biggest names in fashion

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"New Reality in Fashion"

Issues;

Sourcing/Supply chain:Materials volatility, Increased manufacturing costs, Increasing logistics cost

Evolving Customers: High global inflation, Consumer confidence

Market Regulation:Tightening regulations on sustainability

Results in: Decline in sales revenue, Higher levels of inventory, Margin erosion, Financial business and repetitional risk

Results of Covid:

New Reality: Consume less, buy locally and more selectively

Long lasting-changes: New P&L shape emerging, Industry will polarise and consolidate, digitisation of business accelerates

21% of consumers repair broken clothes and textiles

90million social impressions for the term 'slow term'

30 billion und to 40 billion und global resale market

Luxury fashion companies are facing:

changing channel shares: digital to gaining share, offline footprint, wholesale losing ground

changing channel economics: scale to drive economics for e-commerce, managing costs to serve for online, increasing customer acquisition and attractiveness

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Last week, the US and UK began air and naval strikes in Yemen against Houthi militant targets - an escalation of a regional conflict with no resolution in sight, with significant potential consequences for the global economy.

Since November, Iran-backed Houthis - a militant group that has controlled parts of Yemen since 2014 - have staged mounting attacks on cargo ships in the region ostensibly in protest of the Israel-Hamas war in Gaza. Earlier this week, a Houthi missile struck a US-owned cargo ship carrying steel off the coast of Yemen as well as a Greek-owned vessel sailing from Vietnam to Israel.

In both instances, there were no injuries or casualties to crew members, and the ships sustained minor damage. However, the Houthis' intensifying aggression, spurred by Western intervention, poses not only a diplomatic dilemma and a potential new flashpoint in the Middle East war, but also profound disruption to one of the world's most vital trade routes.

Why is the Red Sea so vital to international trade?

All vessels passing through Egypt's Suez Canal must traverse the Red Sea in order to make journeys between Asia and Europe. The canal is a crucial passage for international trade, through which roughly 15 percent of global shipping trade, including as much as 30 percent of container traffic, passes each year.

"This is a vital 119-mile shortcut between Asia and Europe that saves ships travelling an extra 5,500 miles around [South Africa's] Cape of Good Hope," said David Jinks, head of consumer research at UK-based logistics company Parcel Hero. "Each of those containers will likely be carrying thousands of products made in Asia ... typically including everything from Barbie dolls to iPhones to fast fashion."

Ships unable to use the Suez Canal likely opt for the longer route around Africa, which adds on average 10 to 15 days to the trip, resulting in shipment delays as well as increased costs of fuel and insurance. There are also higher risks of pirate attacks and adverse weather conditions associated with the so-called Cape Route, Jinks said. Some retailers are even reportedly exploring air and rail alternatives. These are expensive obstacles for which ultimately consumers will have to pay.

A new report released by the World Bank last week highlighted the heightened importance of Suez in light of existential threats to another of the world's key trade routes, the Panama Canal. Drought in the region has left the canal's water levels lower than ever, forcing Panama to almost halve the number of ships allowed through per day, significantly increasing shipping costs for freight operators using the waterway, which is a shortcut between Asia and the east coast of North America.

What has happened so far in the Red Sea?

Since Nov. 19, when Houthi militants started their recent campaign hijacking commercial vessels in the Red Sea, the rebel group has launched drone and missile attacks on over two dozen ships.

With an estimated 20,000 fighters, according to The Guardian, the Houthis occupy most of the west of Yemen and control its Red Sea coastline. The group claims to only be targeting ships which are Israeli-owned, or those headed for Israeli ports but many ships targeted have no known connections to Israel.

On Jan. 12, the US and UK began a joint military campaign in the region, launching airstrikes on over 10 sites they claim to be used by Houthi militants in Yemen. In the weeks prior to that, the US Navy had deployed several ships to defend ships passing through the region.

Three of the world's largest shipping lines - MSC, Maersk and CMA CGM - have paused all Suez Canal transits indefinitely. DHL advised its customers to consider alternative shipping options as operators switch away from the Red Sea; Oil giant BP said it had paused all transits through the Red Sea; and French food conglomerate Danone warned of increased shipping times due to diverted cargo. Freight container volumes through the Red Sea have fallen 65 percent from expected levels since November, according to Reuters.

What's at stake for fashion retailers?

For now, some retailers are playing down concerns.

"As of now we don't foresee any significant disruptions in the shipments. However, we are following the situation closely," a spokesperson for Swedish retail giant H&M told BoF on Wednesday. Japanese retailer Uniqlo told BoF on Friday: "While there are minor changes of operations, they have no significant impact for now on our business. We are continuing to monitor the situation closely."

Earlier in the month, British retailer Next said that disruption caused by attacks on vessels in the Red Sea could impact deliveries and sales if it was to continue through 2024.

"The extra sailing time eats into capacity in the network and we could begin to get constraints. At the moment it is an inconvenience not a crisis," said chief executive Simon Wolfson. He added that the British retailer does not expect to raise selling prices for consumers for the Spring/Summer season.

But logistics experts say the potential long-term threat could be serious. US retail giant Target said it has already experienced delays on shipments from India and Pakistan due to the re-routing of vessels.

And at some point retailers will feel the pain of heightened shipping expenses. CMA CGM, the world's third-largest shipping company, already announced an increased $150 per container surcharge. For a regular-sized container ship carrying 5,000 containers, this results in an additional cost of $750,000 per sail, Jinks explained.

Eventually, the burden will be passed to consumers. "Expect store prices on products to rise in the coming months," Jinks said.

There is unlikely to be any short-term resolution of the threat to ships in the region, despite the US-UK military intervention. This means retailers will inevitably be forced to hike prices to account for soaring freight costs, analysts expect.

"It does look as if retailers will have to pass on costs to customers at some point, and the longer the crisis continues, in our view, the sooner and steeper those rises will have to be," said Jinks.

For fashion's supply chains, disruption appears to be the new normal. First came the pandemic which saw government-imposed lockdowns and port and factory closures lead to supply chain bottlenecks across the world. Since then, the escalation of geopolitical tensions from Ukraine to the South China Sea and most recently the Middle East have also served to spook markets and disrupt global trade.

What are the potential consequences for the global economy?

Beyond the immediate impact on retailers, it is feared a prolonged Red Sea crisis, coupled with escalating conflict across the Middle East, could have a knock-on effect on the global economy.

"This would have significant spillovers to other commodity prices and heighten geopolitical and economic uncertainty, which in turn could dampen investment and lead to a further weakening of growth," the World Bank predicted. The knock-on inflation risk could encompass everything from oil and gas to foodstuffs and clothing.

Meanwhile, dampened hopes of a global economic recovery could spark uncertainty in capital markets - where several fashion companies are set to debut early this year - and affect M&A activity which has picked up across the fashion and beauty industries in recent months.

It also warned of supply chain bottlenecks - exacerbated by the Panama Canal's capacity crisis - along with the risk of rising energy prices brought on by the continuation and potential escalation of conflicts from the Middle East to Ukraine.
THE NEWS IN BRIEF FASHION, BUSINESS AND THE ECONOMY
Hugo Boss shares sink as profit disappoints. Quarterly earnings before interest and tax came in at €121 million ($132 million), missing analysts' average estimate of €129 million. Shares were down 11 percent at €59 at 14:25 GMT, set for their worst day since March 2020.

Birkenstock slumps as forecast disappoints some investors. The stock slid 12 percent in trading before US exchanges opened. If the drop extends into trading hours, it could erase the gains made since the company's initial public offering in October. Birkenstock said revenue this year could grow by as much as 18 percent to €1.76 billion ($1.92 billion).

Richemont shares climb as demand for Cartier and Van Cleef boosts holiday sales. Sales rose 8 percent year-on-year at constant exchange rates for the three months ending Dec. 31, reaching €5.6 billion ($6.1 billion) and beating analyst expectations. Shares surged 10 percent in early trading.

Watches of Switzerland dives as watch shoppers retreat. Shares of Watches of Switzerland Group Plc slumped nearly 30 percent after the top seller of Rolex watches in the UK cut its sales and growth forecasts. The company, also a major luxury watch and jewellery dealer in the US, said holiday sales were volatile amid challenging macroeconomic conditions that it expects to persist.

China launches data review into Shein ahead of US IPO. The Cyberspace Administration of China is looking into whether Shein can protect data on its China-based staff, suppliers and partners effectively and prevent the information from leaking overseas. The agency is also trying to learn what data Shein needs to provide to US regulators.

Macy's to slash 2,350 jobs and close stores in a streamlining effort. The layoffs make up 3.5 percent of the overall workforce across Macy's. The retailer's incoming CEO Tony Spring is also focussed on cutting expenses on promotions to boost margins as the company recovers from 2022′s inventory glut.

Ex-Abercrombie & Fitch CEO reportedly under FBI inquiry for alleged sex crimes. Mike Jeffries and his partner Matthew Smith are being investigated by federal agencies following allegations that they sexually exploited and abused young men at parties they hosted, reported BBC News. The FBI and the US attorney's office are reportedly interviewing witnesses and issuing subpoenas as part of their investigation.

De Beers cuts diamond prices to revive sales. De Beers cut prices by about 10 percent across the board at its first sale of this year. The one-time monopoly made bigger cuts for some larger stones, with one category being lowered about 25 percent.

Italy court seeks to stop the sale of La Perla lingerie in the UK. The news follows the liquidation of the holding company to recoup unpaid tax debts. The Bologna court ruled the seizure of all the assets in London-based unit La Perla Global Management Ltd., including its valuable brand, according to local unions.

Uniqlo sues Shein for allegedly copying viral shoulder bag. The entities that operate the Shein brand must immediately cease sales of "imitation products" and compensate for damages, Uniqlo parent Fast Retailing said. Uniqlo filed the lawsuit on Dec. 28 at the Tokyo District Court.

London police say covert operation has halved luxury watch thefts. The operation helped to reduce annual watch robberies from 113 to 55 in the year to July 2023 in three central London boroughs: Westminster; Kensington and Chelsea; and Hammersmith and Fulham. In two operations over several months in 2022 and 2023, 27 people were arrested.

EU bans 'misleading' environmental claims that rely on offsetting. Members of the European parliament voted to outlaw the use of terms such as "environmentally friendly", "climate neutral" or "eco" without evidence, while introducing a total ban on using carbon offsetting schemes to substantiate the claims. Under the new directive, only sustainability labels using approved certification schemes will be allowed by the bloc.

VF Corp's cyber incident causes data breach of 35.5 million consumers. The unauthorised activity, detected on Dec. 13, disrupted global customer orders on its e-commerce site. The company said it has substantially restored the IT systems and data that were impacted by the cyber incident.

Struggling fashion house Trussardi nears brand and asset sale. The house is nearing a deal that will see it transferred to a new owner and have assets sold off as part of a debt restructuring. After an extended marketing process that saw little demand, the brand, together with some of the group's branches, is set to be sold to Miroglio Group.
THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY
Kim Kardashian teases the return of makeup and fragrance. In a video posted on Jan. 16 to Kardashian's Instagram, she reads out comments from fans lamenting the closure of her previous brands. The celebrity influencer and entrepreneur closed her cosmetics and fragrances lines KKW Beauty and KKW Fragrance in August 2021 and April 2022 respectively.

German beauty retailer Douglas sees sales grow to $1.7 billion in the first quarter. E-commerce sales for the period, which covered October to December 2023, increased 10.7 percent, while in-store sales rose 7.1 percent. The company said it is on-track to hit $5.5 billion in net sales in 2026 despite the tough economic climate in Europe.

Saudi online cosmetics retailer Nice One plans local IPO. The firm has asked banks to pitch for a role on the potential deal, according to people familiar with the matter. Deliberations are ongoing and details such as the size and timing of the IPO are still undecided.

Compass Diversified announced majority stake in The Honey Pot. The deal is worth $380 million and will close in February. Compass reported that the brand has a 4.5 percent household penetration; Nielsen ranks The Honey Pot as the fifth-largest feminine care brand at retail.

L'Oréal bets on longevity biotech company Timeline. The $66 million Series D round was led by BOLD, L'Oréal Groupe's venture capital arm, with participation from Nestlé. The company will use its latest funding round for expansion across food, beauty and health sectors.

E.l.f cosmetics returns to the Super Bowl. On Feb. 11, it will air a 30-second spot directed by Zach Woods, the actor and director best known for his roles as Jared on "Silicon Valley" and Gabe on "The Office." The ad will feature the brand's $14 Halo Glow Liquid Filter, E.l.f.'s top-selling product of 2023.

Natura & Co to delist from New York Stock Exchange. The company will retain its primary listing in its native Brazil. Natura & Co expects its shares to be delisted on or before Feb. 9.
PEOPLE
Michael Burke to succeed Toledano at LVMH's Fashion Group. The former Louis Vuitton CEO will become chief executive and chairman of the unit that houses Celine, Loewe, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Pucci and Kenzo, effective Feb. 1. Burke will add oversight of Fendi to his responsibilities, and could eventually add Loro Piana to his portfolio, too.

Eighth Day names new CEO. The prestige skincare line has tapped former Tula and Birchbox executive Savannah Sachs to helm the company. The new appointment comes after the line received minority investment from private equity firm L Catterton in September.

Susan Yara joins influencer marketing agency The Digital Dept. to form a new beauty division. The newly formed division will focus on skincare expertise and bring 16 creators to the fold, including Yara. Yara will also work as a consultant to advise on potential product development and investment ventures.

Allbirds announced new executive leadership appointments. The brand announced this week that Kelly Olmstead, formerly senior vice president of brand and marketing, has been promoted to chief marketing officer and footwear industry veteran Adrian Nyman was appointed to the new position of chief design officer. Both were effective December 2023.
MEDIA AND TECHNOLOGY
Reddit seeks to IPO in March. The company, which filed confidentially for its IPO in December 2021, is planning to make its public filing in late February and launch in early March. It would be the first IPO of a major social media company since Pinterest's debut in 2019.

The Independents acquired Atelier Athem. The Paris-based firm that focuses on set design for brands' experiences and stores, including lighting, projections, scenery, interactive elements and sound marks The Independents' tenth acquisition. In July 2023, The Independents announced that it had raised $400 million with ambitions to double in size by 2025.
Compiled by Yola Mzizi.

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For Fashion Supply Chains, Chaos Is the New Normal

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Escalating conflict in the Red Sea will place inflationary pressures on retailers - and eventually their consumers - with potential consequences for the global economy at large.

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Fashion brands tempted to use generative AI be warned: Customers might be unhappy when they find out.

Los Angeles-based Selkie, which made a name for itself with its internet-famous Puff Dress, ran headfirst into this situation last week after posting a seemingly innocuous collage of ruffled frocks printed with puppies and cats on Instagram. After one follower questioned whether it was an artist or AI behind the art, the brand confirmed founder Kimberley Gordon created the images from a mix of vintage art, computer painting and AI.

The backlash was swift.

"Unfollowed. There are so many talented artists in addition to digital painting, AI isn't necessary. I definitely won't be buying anything more from selkie," one user wrote in a comment receiving more than 400 likes.

A typical post by Selkie would get a few dozen comments. This one has generated more than 750 - a fair bit of publicity for the small label, though the general sentiments are anger and disappointment.

The incident highlights the opportunities and risks for brands embracing the technology. Critics argue AI companies train their models on copyrighted material without consent or compensation to the original creators, prompting lawsuits against AI developers by artists and writers. Many worry companies will use the technology to replace human creators. Goldman Sachs estimates AI could ultimately automate around one quarter of jobs in industries including arts and design in the US and Europe.

But designers say using AI allows them to enhance their creativity and discover unexpected new ideas. One point frequently made by those who've actually used AI is that it isn't a replacement for human creativity; it's a tool that still needs a person to wield it.

Both arguments can be true of course, and Selkie probably won't be the last brand to find itself caught between them.

Levi's wound up in a similar firestorm last year when it revealed it would begin testing AI-generated models as a means to increase the diversity of models on its e-commerce site. Questions immediately arose as to why Levi's didn't simply hire more human models with the diverse characteristics it was looking for. In its defence, Levi's said it would be impossible to photograph each of its product on that many models and that it would continue to hire a diverse range of human models.

Selkie, which didn't reply to multiple requests for comment, responded to some of the comments on Instagram by explaining that Gordon, herself a painter and artist, had researched AI extensively. "While some do not agree, she believes it is something awesome to experiment with and an incredible tool for students, graphic designers, artists, small businesses and alike!" the brand wrote in reply to one comment.

Gordon has frequently used clip art - as in pre-made digital graphics - along with stock images, public-domain paintings and digital illustrations in her work, Photoshopping them together into prints for her frilly clothing, according to an interview she did with TechCrunch about the controversy. She contended that using AI-generated imagery as the foundation of her designs required just as much original work, effort and creativity on her part as her usual process.

"This is the future of art and as long as an artist is utilising it, it is the same as what we've been doing with clip art," she said.

It probably didn't help that Selkie didn't disclose its use of AI upfront, which may have left its followers feeling duped. Judging by the comments on Instagram, what Selkie's critics seemed most upset by was the fact that Gordon used AI rather than hire an artist to create her prints. It's unclear whether she would have turned to an artist to do the work if she hadn't generated it with AI, however.

Either way, it may prove to be a recurring issue for brands turning to AI. They could find themselves having to reassure customers the technology wasn't just a way to cut out wages that would have been paid to a person - though history shows that, when possible, businesses will do just that.

Even if brands can assuage shoppers on that point, there's still the matter of whether it's appropriate to use generative AI at all given that it might have been trained on copyrighted material. From a legal perspective, courts in the US have judged copyright infringement based on the final product, Anthony Lupo, an attorney focused on fashion and technology at law firm ArentFox Schiff, previously told BoF. Otherwise any designer with another brand's work on its moodboard might need to worry. But generative AI presents uncharted territory that courts and consumers alike will have to navigate.

One way brands might get around the issue is by training the AI model on their previous work, a method Collina Strada's Hillary Taymour has used to ensure the AI's output is based on her brand's creative DNA.

Whether that's enough to prevent a consumer revolt remains to be seen. For all the excitement around AI's possibilities, there's also a great deal of fear and distrust, including among younger generations - the group typically thought of as being first to accept new technologies. Professors at some top fashion schools, for instance, have found their students are more interested in learning traditional craft than the latest in AI.

At least for now, brands looking to the technology will have to consider all the usual risks that go along with it, like bias in the imagery, as well as the chance that they could become the target of their customers' displeasure.

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The brand Selkie recently found itself in the midst of a revolt by its own customers after posting an image on Instagram created in part with generative AI.

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Rolex is a pioneer in sponsorship, supporting excellence since the brand's foundation early in the 20th century. Its long-term commitment to prestigious partnerships is a distinctive part of the company's rich heritage, in keeping with the ethos of its visionary founder, Hans Wilsdorf. The partnerships extend to the highest level of elite sports, including equestrianism, golf, motor sport, skiing, tennis and yachting. Such associations with exceptional athletes, and select events and institutions, reflect the passion for perfection and a quest to continually push back the boundaries of achievement.

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Read about Rolex's long-standing relationship with sports on the Official Rolex Newsroom website.

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The Anne Midi Skirt also comes in denim. Made in Italy from 100% cotton sourced from luxury deadstock fabrics, Anne has a mermaid skirt shape and offers a sleek midi-length silhouette.

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Sustainability is real and smart investors know it

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It still matters if companies pollute our waterways, exploit their workers or poison their customers

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Sustainability is real and smart investors know it

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It still matters if companies pollute our waterways, exploit their workers or poison their customers

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When the Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games kick off in July 2024, the millions of global fans watching will see far more than just athletes.

LVMH brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior and Berluti will provide uniforms for select teams, while the medals will be the work of its high jewellery label, Chaumet. For the first time ever, the games will feature LVMH-sponsored athletes, including world-champion swimmer Léon Marchand, European champion in artistic gymnastics Mélanie de Jesus dos Santos and Olympic gold-medalist fencer Ezno Lefort.

The "premium" partnership between LVMH and the Olympics marks the biggest indication to date of sport's newfound importance to fashion. Until recently, sport was one of the remaining cultural arenas in which fashion, with a few exceptions, had failed to forge long-lasting and meaningful relationships. That has changed.

Fashion brands are waking up to the commercial value of sports like basketball, football, tennis and Formula 1 as they look to be part of the booming sports-sponsorship market, which is projected to grow from $63.1 billion in 2021 to $109.1 billion by 2030, according to PwC.

"Sport is now the only by-appointment thing to watch on TV or tune into live at that point in time - everything else is on demand," said Clive Reeves, PwC's UK sports leader. "To be in the conversation, you need to watch sport at that point in time, which makes it the only thing left in society that really drives a huge volume of people at specific moments, which for brands is very special and valuable."

A New Playing Field

The scope for fashion's ability to tap into sports has been blown wide open. Beyond competing with large corporations for traditional sponsorship on jerseys or around stadiums, brands can target niche areas where they may have a more natural impact. For example, they can partner with athletes on clothing lines, dress them for the "tunnel walk" that occurs as they enter an arena - images of which are instantly shared online by dedicated social media accounts - or even create clothing for their avatars in video games.

"There is still so much untapped potential and uncharted territory for brands to explore across so many different sports," said Kenny Annan-Jonathan, a sports marketing veteran and founder of London-based agency The Mailroom, who was appointed creative director of the Premier League's Crystal Palace Football Club in August 2023. "We're only at the outset of seeing where the world of sports can take fashion brands."

While sportswear companies like Nike, Adidas and Puma have long since aligned their brands with fashion, this case study unpacks opportunities for non-sportswear brands and retailers. The companies profiled - German luxury brand Boss, Swiss watchmaker Tag Heuer and UK-based sneaker marketplace start-up The Edit Ldn - each have placed sports marketing at the heart of their growth strategies and brand identities, either to deepen connections with existing consumers or as a means to effectively and authentically target new audiences.

Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders' documentation guaranteeing BoF's complete editorial independence.

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Case Study | Fashion's New Rules For Sports Marketing

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Capitalising on sport's soaring commercial and cultural relevance is becoming a primary focus for fashion brands. Winning sports-marketing strategies today hinge on building long-term, collaborative partnerships with athletes and organisations that resonate with a brand's target consumers, as experts in BoF's latest case study explain.

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The book takes the reader logically through each part of the authors' new Responsible 9 Framework™ , providing a clear perspective and examples for each component. The framework thoroughly explains the move away from a singular product commercial focus to a Conscious Item approach and Circular Services business mindset. An organisation's people are at the heart of the new framework and have therefore been rebranded as Community . Next addressed is the Perceived Value of an item or brand, and how sustainable pricing initiatives actively influence consumer purchase. Insights into Accountable Systems are reviewed to examine the importance of responsible processes when considering and integrating a successful, sustainable supply chain into a fashion business. The section on Governance looks at the different global organisations available to fashion brands and customers alike, which support their transition into a responsible and sustainable future existence. The last two sections of the framework are labelled Storytelling Platforms and Honest Communication , where transparent and honest strategies are highlighted and discussed from a viewpoint of how modern brands are engaging and connecting to the new conscious consumer. For each of the nine aspects, contemporary case studies from global brands such as Stella McCartney, Zalando and Arc'teryx, alongside insights from current, leading experts within the fashion world, bring the theory to life.

Showing how sustainability has been integrated throughout the entirety of the fashion business, this textbook is perfect for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students Fashion Management, Fashion Brand Management and Fashion Marketing, as well as reflective leaders and practitioners within the industry.

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Responsible Fashion Business in Practice (Mastering Fashion Management)

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Responsible Fashion Business in Practice (Mastering Fashion Management) [Ghebreab, Sennait, Heale, Sally] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Responsible Fashion Business in Practice (Mastering Fashion Management)

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Abstract

Purpose

The COVID-19 pandemic has caused irrefutable devastation globally. Yet, academic and trade commentators have claimed that this disruption could have had a silver lining by presenting the fashion industry with the opportunity to reassess and rebuild in a slower, more considered way. Part of this reassessment, some have argued, may have been allowing the industry's pre-COVID sustainability buzz to come to fruition by nudging the fashion industry to go circular. This paper explores if, and how, the COVID-19 pandemic was (not) nudging the industry towards circularity using the case study of circular textiles.

Design/methodology/approach

Serial, semi-structured, qualitative interviews were conducted with three buyers and sourcers working for three UK-based fashion retailers. Each participant was involved in three interviews in June 2020 following the UK's first national lockdown.

Findings

The research findings suggest that, at the time this research was undertaken, these retailers were focussed on regaining profit, protecting their supply chains and producing "safe" designs whilst cutting back and becoming more risk averse. These actors suggested that, in contrast to the suppositions made by academic and media commentators, the COVID-19 pandemic was acting as a hindrance to circularity, not a helping hand, as retailers were less willing to invest in circular textiles at that time than they were pre-pandemic.

Originality/value

This paper offers valuable insight into the COVID-19 pandemic's impact on circular innovation within fashion retail whilst contributing to broader understandings of the principles of the circular economy within textiles and design.

Acknowledgements

The author thanks the anonymous reviewers of this paper, the editors, the guest editors and the study participants for their time. The author also thanks Professor Ian Cook, Professor Agnes Nairn and Professor David Evans for their feedback on previous drafts of this paper and for their encouragement and support.

Citation

Sugg, B. (2022), "Circular textiles innovation during COVID-19: not the silver lining some had hoped for", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. ahead-of-print No. ahead-of-print, pp. 1-16. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-07-2021-0180

Publisher
:
Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright

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Circular textiles innovation during COVID-19: not the silver lining some had hoped for

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Circular textiles innovation during COVID-19: not the silver lining some had hoped for - Author: Bethany Sugg

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To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link.
The traditional fashion value chain is linear: fibres are grown, harvested, spun into fabric and stitched into garments, which are then distributed to retailers, sold, worn and discarded.

"The way we make and use things accounts for 45 percent of greenhouse gases and 90 percent of biodiversity loss," said Dame Ellen MacArthur at BoF VOICES 2021.

In this conversation with BoF's Sarah Kent, MacArthur lays out a vision for an alternate "circular" economy where the lifecycle of garments is extended through better design, including the use of more resilient, recyclable materials, and using systems throughout the manufacturing and sales process to facilitate items' repair, reuse, and eventual transformation into something new.

But this kind of systemic change will require a collective and coordinated push from suppliers, designers, brands and retailers across fashion's value chain.

"We need to work together to make this happen. You need the entire value chain in the room," said MacArthur, adding that though such comprehensive change is a challenge, it's also an opportunity. Circular business models, including resale and rental, are on track to become a $700 billion market representing 23 percent of the fashion industry by 2030.
Join BoF Professional for the analysis and advice you need. Get 30 days for just $1 or explore group subscriptions for your business.
"Business as usual doesn't work," said MacArthur. "It's not the solution."

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To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. The traditional fashion value chain is linear: fibres are grown, harvested, spun into fabric and stitched into garments, which are then distributed to retailers, sold, worn and discarded.

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What is wearable technology?

Wearable technology is any kind of electronic device designed to be worn on the user's body. Such devices can take many different forms, including jewelry, accessories, medical devices, and clothing or elements of clothing. The term wearable computing implies processing or communications capabilities, but in reality, the sophistication among wearables can vary.

The most sophisticated examples of wearable technology include artificial intelligence (AI) hearing aids, Google Glass and Microsoft's HoloLens, and a holographic computer in the form of a virtual reality (VR) headset. An example of a less complex form of wearable technology is a disposable skin patch with sensors that transmit patient data wirelessly to a control device in a healthcare facility.

How does wearable technology work?

Modern wearable technology falls under a broad spectrum of usability, including smartwatches, fitness trackers such as the Fitbit Charge, VR headsets, smart jewelry, web-enabled glasses and Bluetooth headsets. Wearables work differently, based on the category they belong to, such as health, fitness or entertainment. Predominantly, wearable technology functions by incorporating microprocessors, batteries and connectivity to the internet so the collected data can be synced with other electronics, such as mobile devices or laptops.

Wearables are embedded with built-in sensors that keep track of bodily movements, provide biometric identification or assist with location tracking. For example, activity trackers or smartwatches -- the most common types of wearables -- come with a strap that wraps around the user's wrist to monitor their physical activities or vitals throughout the day.

While most wearables are either worn on the body or are attached to clothing, some function without any physical contact with the user. Cell phones, smart tags or computers can still be carried around and track user movements. Other wearables use remote smart sensors and accelerometers to track movements and speed, and some use optical sensors for measuring heart rate or glucose levels. A common factor among these technology wearables is the fact they all monitor data in real time.

What are some applications of wearable technology?

Consumer electronics, such as smartwatches and fitness trackers, are prominent use cases for wearable technology. However, with the recent advancements in the internet of things ( IoT) and AI, wearable technology is being incorporated into all types of scenarios -- from healthcare, navigation systems, consumer goods and professional sports to advanced textiles.

Wearable technology has many uses, including health and fitness tracking, chronic disease management, interactive gaming, performance monitoring and navigation tracking.

The following are the most popular current and next-generation applications of wearable technology:

Epidermal skin technology. According to ScienceDaily, the Terasaki Institute for Biomedical Innovation invented wearable electronic skin for monitoring health. A next-generation of wearables, this ultra-thin e-skin patch can be attached to the wearer's chest area along with a small wireless transmitter by using water spray and can be worn for up to a week. It is sensitive enough to pick up and record electro signals, such as heartbeats and muscle movements, which can be sent to healthcare providers via the cloud so they can monitor the user's vitals remotely. This powerful wearable is a steppingstone for monitoring chronic illnesses such as heart failure and diabetes.

Health monitoring. People use wearable technology to track and receive notifications for their heart rate and blood pressure, watch their calorie intake or manage their training regimens. The COVID-19 pandemic boosted the use of wearable technology, as consumers gained a broader awareness of personal hygiene and taking precautions to prevent the spread of infections. Apple, for instance, updated its Cardiogram app by introducing a new sleeping beats-per-minute feature that monitors heart rate fluctuations for COVID-19 patients.

Entertainment and gaming. The gaming and entertainment industries were the first to adopt VR headsets, smart glasses and controllers. Popular VR head-mounted displays, such as Oculus Quest, Meta Quest and Sony PlayStation VR, are used for all types of entertainment purposes, including gaming, watching movies and virtual traveling.

Fashion and smart clothing. Clothing known as smart clothing, or intelligent fashion, has been gaining wide popularity over the past few years. Smart jackets, such as Levi's jacket made with Google's Project Jacquard technology whose threads are composed of electrical fibers, enable the wearer to answer calls, play music or take photos right from their sleeves. Smartwatches, wristbands, smart shoes and smart jewelry are also popular examples of wearable technology.

Military. These wearables include technology that tracks soldiers' vitals, VR-based simulation exercises and sustainability technology, such as boot inserts that estimate how well the soldiers are holding their equipment weight and how terrain factors can affect their performance.

Sports and fitness. Sports use wearable athletic devices that are either built into the fabric of the sports apparel or are incorporated into sports equipment, such as bats and balls. The GPS and Bluetooth-linked devices relay real-time data to coaches for analysis through connected electronic devices such as laptops. Besides wearable athletic devices, familiar wearable technology such as Fitbit, Apple Watch, Garmin, Samsung Galaxy Watch and Polar are used extensively to track various areas of the player's health and performance metrics.

Examples of wearable technology

Common examples of wearable technology include the following:

Smart jewelry. This can include smart rings, wristbands and watches. Smaller wearable devices typically work with a smartphone app for display and interaction.

Body-mounted sensors. These sensors are placed on the body to monitor and transmit biological data for healthcare purposes.

Fitness trackers. These wearables often come in the form of wristbands, straps or headbands that monitor physical activity and vital signs. Trackers may connect wirelessly to an app for data storage, processing and reporting.

Smart clothing. This type of clothing comes with built-in technology that can perform a variety of tasks including fitness or health monitoring, interacting with phones and other devices and changing fabric characteristics to suit the user's preference, activity or environment. As an example, in 2014, clothing manufacturer Tommy Hilfiger launched clothing that came fitted with solar cells to charge devices.

Augmented reality (AR) headsets. AR headsets use a real-world setting and integrate digital information into a display of the user's environment in a way that enables interaction with real world and virtual reality.

VR headsets. VR headsets entirely replace the user environment with digital information and enhance the fictional reality. VR users are controlled by the system.

AI hearing aids. AI hearing aids can filter out unwanted noises and automatically adapt to provide the best performance in the user's current environment and for their individual hearing needs. Such devices, sometimes referred to as hearables, can also incorporate capabilities such as fitness tracking, audio streaming and translation.

Virtual assistants. Some companies create wearable virtual assistants that clip to a user's clothes and are controlled with voice and gestures. Humane's AI Pin is one example, which features a virtual assistant powered by the GPT-4 language model and miniature projector that can turn the user's hand into a touch screen. The device can answer questions, find information and carry out tasks in a similar manner to nonwearable virtual assistants -- such as Amazon Alexa and Apple's Siri. The device also has translation and fitness tracking features.

The history of wearable technology

The origins of wearable technology date back to the 13th century when eyeglasses were first invented. In the 15th century, timepieces were created -- some of which were small enough to be worn -- but it was not until the 1960s that modern wearable technology came into existence.

The following is a brief history showcasing the various turns wearable technology has taken over time:

1960s. In 1961, Edward Thorp and Claude Shannon created wearable technology in the form of a tiny four-button computer that could fit into a shoe or be strapped around the user's waist. It was created to help gamblers in casinos cheat at roulette games, as the computer acted as a timing device to predict where the ball would land.

1970s. Wearable tech gained popularity during this decade. The first calculator wristwatch was released in 1975 by Pulsar and quickly became a fashion statement, as many celebrities, including Police lead singer Sting, were seen wearing it. Other companies, including Casio, released watches well into the 80s and Marty McFly was seen wearing the Casio CA53W calculator watch in the movie Back to the Future.

1980s. Sony released the Walkman in 1979 and it became the most popular wearable music device throughout the 80s. The healthcare industry was also transformed during this decade with the release of the first digital hearing aids in 1987.

1990s. Steve Mann, a Canadian researcher, invented the wearable wireless webcam in 1994. This bulky webcam facilitated the use of future IoT technologies. Smart clothing expos and wearable technology conferences also spiked in popularity during the 90s.

2000s. This decade saw an explosion in wearable technology with the introduction of Bluetooth headsets, Fitbits and the Nike plus iPod Sport Kit.

2010s. This period was the tipping point for wearable technology. Google Glass entered the scene in 2013, while the Apple Watch debuted in 2015 and was followed by The Oculus Rift Headset in 2016.

2020s. The gaming industry continues to add newer AR and VR headsets, while clothing designers are rapidly bringing smart clothing to the mainstream.

The future of wearable technology

Wearable technology is becoming increasingly popular and is all set to revolutionize the future. While fitness trackers, smart devices, intelligent clothing and VR and AR headsets have gained widespread approval, they are only the tip of the iceberg.

The following are some futuristic products and concepts predicted by tech experts and how they will shape wearable technology going forward:

Apple Glasses. Initial reports from Bloomberg and The Information suggest that Apple Glasses could be released by 2023. These AR smart glasses are designed to transfer information from a user's phone to their face. These glasses will be able to synchronize with a wearer's iPhone to display texts, emails, games and other items over the user's field of vision.

Energy harvesting. One drawback of using wearable technology is that it must be taken off for regular charging. Energy harvesting is being researched and could prolong battery life by converting body heat, movement or solar energy into power. Piezoelectricity is one example of energy harvesting where piezoelectric ceramic can be used to convert the body vibrations produced during movement into energy.

Smart contact lenses. Nothing short of a sci-fi movie, smart contact lenses that can deliver real-time information to the human eye will be available to consumers soon. Tech giants, including Google, Mojo Vision, Samsung and Sony, are working on developing these soft electronic smart contact lenses that can sync up with smartphones or other external devices to provide real-time, hands-free information along with vision correction.

AI for the human brain. AI-integrated non-invasive sensors that help with performing functions associated with thinking are currently being developed. Facebook is developing a brain-computer interface that could enable people to type Facebook status updates by using their minds instead of typing. Elon Musk's company Neuralink is also working on an interface that could help people who suffer from traumatic brain injuries.
Each wearable device comes with computing capabilities as well as several pros and cons. Learn about the benefits and management challenges posed by enterprise wearables.

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BOSTON, August 30, 2021 -- WHOOP, the human performance company, today announced that it has raised $200 million in a Series F funding round at a $3.6 billion valuation led by SoftBank Vision Fund 2.* Participating investors include IVP, Cavu Ventures, Thursday Ventures, GP Bullhound, Accomplice, NextView Ventures, and Animal Capital. WHOOP is now the most valuable standalone human performance company in the world. The past twelve months have been marked by rapid growth in WHOOP membership and additional product enhancements to its technology. "We are thrilled to deepen our partnership with SoftBank as we grow internationally," said Will Ahmed, WHOOP Founder and CEO. "While we have experienced amazing growth in the past year, the potential of our technology and the vast market for health monitoring remains largely untapped." WHOOP will use this new capital to:

Invest in research and development to build the future of wearable technology

Create enhancements across its suite of product, software, and analytics

Enter new markets through strategic international expansion

Acquire leading technology companies to evolve the membership offering

Expand hiring of best-in-class global talent across engineering, data science, analytics, and more

Play a larger role in professional sports and extend WHOOP Live to a greater audience, taking fan and athlete engagement to a new level through biometric data visualization

WHOOP is a personalized 24/7 digital fitness and health coach that helps people unlock their inner potential and make meaningful lifestyle changes via actionable feedback on sleep, recovery, and strain. The WHOOP membership includes free hardware and a platform designed to optimize behavior. WHOOP insights are grounded in industry-leading accuracy across measurements of key health indicators like heart rate variability, resting heart rate, respiratory rate, and sleep staging. "WHOOP continues to experience tremendous user growth as they transform human performance, adding new features and products that are focused on enabling their users to lead healthier lives," said Kristin Bannon, Investment Director at SoftBank Investment Advisers. "We are excited to continue our support of Will and the WHOOP team as they aim to improve health in the U.S. and expand internationally." As part of the funding round, Ms. Bannon will also join the WHOOP Board of Directors. WHOOP has more than 500 employees with over 225 new hires in the past 12 months, and has raised approximately $400 million to date. In 2022, WHOOP will open offices around the world, including a new global headquarters in Boston, Massachusetts planning to house more than 1,000 team members on site. Visit whoop.com to learn more about WHOOP and the Series F funding round.

About WHOOP

WHOOP, the human performance company, provides a membership for 24/7 coaching to improve health. The WHOOP membership comes with free hardware, a coaching platform designed to optimize your behavior, and a community of high performers. WHOOP members include professional athletes, Fortune 500 CEOs, fitness enthusiasts, military personnel, frontline workers and anyone looking to improve their performance. Studies show WHOOP can positively change behavior, increase sleep, and improve physiological biomarkers. Founded in 2012, WHOOP is based in Boston and has raised more than $400 million in venture capital. Visit whoop.com for the latest company news and connect with WHOOP on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube. Media Contact: WHOOP Alex Jacobs press@whoop.com *As of the date of this press release, SoftBank Group Corp. has made capital contributions to allow investments by SoftBank Vision Fund 2 ("SVF 2") in certain portfolio companies. The information included herein is made for informational purposes only and does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy limited partnership interests in any fund, including SVF 2. SVF 2 has yet to have an external close, and any potential third-party investors shall receive additional information related to any SVF 2 investments prior to closing.

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WHOOP Raises $200 Million at $3.6 Billion Valuation | WHOOP

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WHOOP has raised $200 million in a Series F funding round at a $3.6 billion valuation led by SoftBank Vision Fund 2.