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This is another place you can buy a computer from. They have low prices available for you.

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Best buy has great deals on laptops and tablets. They have a wide variety of different brands of laptops: Windows, MacOS, and Chrome.

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Dell has great deals and affordable prices.

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Laptops: Notebooks, Laptop Computers & 2-in-1 PCs | Dell United States

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Shop new laptops, notebooks & 2-in-1 PCs from the official Dell site. Everyday, performance, ultra-thin & gaming laptops. Build and ship yours today!

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Apple store is one place you can buy a laptop from that is a little more expensive, but great quality.

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The most powerful Mac laptops and desktops ever. Supercharged by M1 and M2 chips. MacBook Air, MacBook Pro, iMac, Mac mini, Mac Studio, and Mac Pro.

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List of factors to consider when buying a new computer

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List of factors to consider when buying a new computer

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Some tips to help you out for building a computer

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Some tips to help you out for building a computer

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Building your own computer is a great way to not only save money, and get more processing power, but also to learn about the less obvious parts of software programming.

What is inside your computer? How many parts? Can you guess?

I decided to build a computer with my teenage son, for this magazine, to teach him about the hidden part of computers (he's into coding, the obvious part of computers), and for father-son bonding. I also wanted to learn what was inside a computer by building one.

Here's what I found out is inside almost any computer:

The computer case to hold all the parts.

A power supply to run the computer.

A CPU or central processing unit to run the software and process data.

A fan to cool off the CPU and a second fan to cool off everything else.

Random access memory, or RAM, to store data as the computer runs, in real time.

A motherboard to hold the CPU, RAM, plus all the other chips to run the computer.

A hard drive to store data for retrieval as needed.

A video card to display data on a computer monitor.

A monitor to display data from the computer.

An optical drive to read and write to CD discs.

A card to send and receive data wirelessly through wi-fi routers.

A card to send sound to a computer monitor and/or speakers.

A keyboard and mouse in input data into the computer.

Thirteen different pieces, minimum, to almost every computer. Some computers have multiple hard drives to store data. Some don't have an optical drive. Some might not need a wi-fi card. But almost all computers have these dozen or so parts minimum.

That's only half the picture, however. Computer hardware cannot run without a basic operating system plus bits of software. And these bits of software are different from the operating systems we are familiar with, for example, Windows or Linux or Android or iOS. Computer hardware needs drivers, small bits of software to translate between parts of a computer and the motherboard and operating system. And BIOS is the basic operating system that ties together all the drivers and hardware so the other operating systems like Windows can run.

As I said, one of my goals building a computer was to show my son, and you as a reader, exactly what goes into most computers. It's a lot of stuff; however, it turns out to be not too complicated.

Our adventure began by reading a number of magazine articles, in print and online, about how to build a computer, what worked, what failed, what options exist. Then we followed these steps:

Used the PC Part Picker website to decide what parts to buy and order parts.

Built the computer hardware.

Installed Windows 8 and updated the software.

Hunted down software drivers and updated software.

Each of these steps is described below, often in gory detail. Your mileage will vary, of course, if you decide to do this project yourself. The main takeaway is to do your research, figure out the worst that could happen, then do what you can to avoid the worst case scenarios. That makes it much easier to have fun building your own computer, as we did.

Decide What Parts to Buy/Order

We started with PC Part Picker to build an ideal high end gaming system which costed out, minus rebates, at about $1600 before tax and shipping.

Then we worked the list of parts to reduce the cost, for example, selecting a lower wattage power supply with 530w instead of 750w (our system needed only 341w) and picked a modular power supply to reduce the number of wires and increase open space for ventilation. We also reduced RAM from 2 8GB memory cards (16GB of RAM total) to 1 8GB card, leaving three slots on the motherboard for future expansion with additional 8GB memory cards, for a total of 32GB of RAM possible. We also swapped out for a lower cost fan unit after researching efficiency, learning 80 or 90% efficiency is fine, 100% being impossible; we also learned efficiency translates into heat where less efficient generates more heat.

In comparing options to reduce price, we used PC Part Picker's search filter to find highly rated items (and the more people who rated, the better) and criteria, then sorted by ratings and features. In between, we searched online to understand CFM (for fans), Efficiency (for power supplies), and similar details to help decide what cheaper options to buy. Any time we had a question, we searched online for an answer or feature definition.

Next, we compared return policies for the different vendors. Newegg charges a 15% restock fee, for example, so we decided to limit what we bought from them. All vendors require shipping materials and no external damage for any returned merchandise. We eliminated one vendor because we could not easily find information about their return policies on their site.

Before we bought, we did a final check for compatibility, for example, confirming RAM would fit the motherboard and the motherboard would fit the case. We also confirmed the power supply fit the case. The PC Part Picker site does a good job of flagging incompatible parts, even limiting search filter options based on compatibility. I'm still compulsive enough to check every detail.

Finally, we worked through the PC Part Picker list to determine which vendors to buy from. We used the Price Breakdown by Merchant tab on PC Part Picker. We chose Amazon first, buying all parts where Newegg did not have an instant promotion rebate, or Amazon didn't have a part or the lowest price. We added items to shopping carts at Newegg and Amazon as we worked down the list of parts on PC Part Picker. We noticed MicroCenter had the CPU at a dramatically lower cost if we picked it up from their store. We got lucky: there is a MicroCenter store nearby. So the last item we bought was the CPU from MicroCenter and picked it up within the three days they let you reserve it. We saved $61 on the CPU cost.

Getting Started

Receiving the parts proved to be fun and slightly harrowing.

The first item we got, the computer case from Newegg, came in a box with the white version. Or that is what we thought, looking at the box: it displayed the white version of our case. We called Newegg and learned all versions of the case are sent in the same box. We checked the part number on the box and it proved to be correct. We pulled the case out and found, sure enough, it was black.

The next issue was more subtle and, as it turned out, funny.

All the parts arrived late on a Friday so we dived in after dinner and worked until around 11:30 at night, pulling out parts, connecting parts, looking up data, reading manuals, digging out screws, screwing down screws . It was a blast. Early the next morning, my son woke me up for the first time in recorded history. He had crawled downstairs to the basement and got to work only to find out the computer didn't fire up. We checked all the connections. I pulled everything out of the computer case and hooked up only the motherboard, power supply, and the connection for the on/off switch on the case. It didn't work. So I went back to MicroCenter and bought a cheap case and connected its on/off switch to the motherboard and power supply. That worked. We had a defective on/off switch on the fancy computer case from Newegg.

In the meantime, I posted a question on TomsHardware.com. I'd seen a badge on one of the parts from this site, rating the part as excellent. After some back and forth on their forum, I discovered the problem was a GUI error, not graphical user interface like a phone, software interface, or computer monitor.

No, GUI as in Gross User Incompetence. That would be me.

Computer motherboards have two power connectors, one obvious and one not so obvious. We had missed the not so obvious power connector. Although my son told me, later, he had noticed the plug and wondered. But I didn't find this solution until someone on the Tom's Hardware forum pointed me to a long list of ideas for testing. The first item on the list is a lurid photo of a motherboard with the CPU power connector called out.

While annoying, we did get the joy of pressing the on/off switch on the cheap computer case and seeing the motherboard not only light up but also boot up. Victory!

Returning the case to Newegg also turned out to be easy. As a warranty issue, it cost us nothing. And I did save all the boxes and other parts, which I highly recommend. And, because the problem was a defective part, a warranty issue, to speed things up I bought a second case from Newegg, moved its parts into the original computer case box, and shipped the original case back for a refund. We had all the screws from the original case and knew where everything went. We simply didn't want the hassle of finding every last small plastic bag then sorting and loading in dozens of tiny parts again.

With the new computer case in hand, we created the basic setup to test the new on/off switch. The motherboard had two connections to the power supply, one for the CPU and one for the board. The new on/off connector was plugged into the board. My son pressed the on/off switch on the case and it booted up and stayed on. Shouts all around.

We next added the small standoffs to the case. They're little screws to hold the motherboard maybe half an inch off the surface of the case. Then we screwed down the motherboard, to the standoffs. My son discovered I had missed a standoff on the new case; one was missing from the old computer case. But he offered a great solution: take one from the middle of the motherboard and use it on the edge of the board.

From there, we added back all the parts, turning on the power supply every few minutes to check the on/off switch still worked and the newly added parts turned on properly:

Video graphics card

Wi-fi card

CPU fan (which has its own power connector, go figure!)

Hard drive

CD-ROM drive

All the little USB, LED, and other connectors

All the fans (four in total)

The trickiest part turned out to be the CPU fan. This sits on top of the CPU, like a squat little monster. The fan can be pressed down into four open holes on the motherboard, until you hear a click. The hard part turned out to be two-fold, finding the connector for the fan (it turned out to be on the motherboard, near the CPU power connector) and figuring out how to manage the too short then too long connector cable.

Turned out the connector cable from the fan was wrapped around the CPU fan and prevented the blades from turning. Plus the extra cable was too short to reach its connector on the motherboard. My son figured out the cable was tucked into the sides of the fan as it wrapped around. That gave us too much connector cable to reach the fan's connector. I then realized we could tuck the extra cable back along the sides of the fan, which made the cable length just right, like Goldilocks.

From there, adding parts went smoothly.

Once we had all the parts connected and powered up, we added the monitor and the keyboard and mouse. We were greeted with a software screen from the makers of the motherboard, Gigabyte. While not 100% modern and flashy as Windows or iOS software, it is light years from the old BIOS screens I've worked with years ago. You can click menu options and double-click settings to make choices, no keyboard shortcuts required. My son quickly went through screens and made adjustments and rebooted the computer. The computer actually restarted and came back on screen fine.

Then my son installed Windows 8 followed by the 3-4 CDs included with the motherboard and video card. When we discovered the CD with the video card drivers did not include a Windows 8 driver, we bet the computer Windows 8 would update the video drivers. I said Windows would take care of it. He was certain we were doomed. Whoever won the bet, would own the new computer.

Updating the software with the motherboard CDs, among other things, added the software driver for the wi-fi board connected to the computer motherboard. That let us connect to our wi-fi hot spot and, from there, get on the internet to update software.

From Windows 8, my son started the infamous Windows updates, this time 43 updates, 8 gigabytes total file size, including the updated software drivers for the video card. While I won the bet and his computer, Windows did include the Windows 8 software driver for the video card, my son refused to acknowledge we ever had a bet. He was simply thrilled to see the 250 megabyte update in the list of Windows updates. So was I, for that matter.

Lessons Learned

The biggest lesson is this sort of project is highly do-able if you have the time. And it can save a few hundred dollars if you're careful. For kids, it's also a great way to get a baseline computer they can work to make money to add memory and other parts over time.

The other useful lessons we learned:

The motherboard has two power connectors, one for the board and one for the CPU. The latter usually is located by the CPU. Check the motherboard layout diagram in the manual included with the board.

The CPU fan connection usually is located near the CPU.

One truly odd fact: the CPU fan has thermal paste on the bottom of the fan. This is black sticky goo. Don't remove it. The paste helps control CPU temperature. If you do remove the sticky goo, you might get memory errors and crashes due to overheating of the CPU. Thermal paste costs about $10-25.

The Gigabyte motherboard we bought included a lot of extras like a Wi-Fi card with Bluetooth capability and a full featured software application to see and set BIOS settings. However, the antennae for the Wi-Fi card was cheap so we swapped out the stick antennas included with the extra Wi-Fi card we accidentally bought but didn't need.

It never hurts to buy a computer case with room for lots of fans. Computers can run hot.

Building our own computer was a great project for us. It turned out to be fairly easy once we figured out the computer case on/off switch was defective. And learned computer motherboards have two power connectors, one for the board (which we found) and one for the CPU (which is not obvious). But the internet came through, people on the Toms Hardware forum provided a sanity check and a link to the ultimate answer about the CPU power connector.

Most of all, we did not have to solder or do anything more dangerous than watch to not build up static electricity and disconnect the power supply as we connected wires and parts. My son got a small education and insight into the hardware that will power the software he'll presumably write in the next few years.

Frequently Asked Questions

As part of updating this article for the print magazine version, here are common questions (and answers) people have about building their own computers from scratch.

Is it safe to build a computer?

The electricity used to power your computer is the only truly dangerous part of building a computer. Carefully research how to build a computer, buy reputable parts, ground yourself as you build, and use power only to test connections to the motherboard as you add new parts. There are no guarantees, however. You must be extremely careful at all times. Building a computer also should be done with at least one adult around. It can be a fun bonding experience if you're careful and thorough.

How do I ground myself?

Everyone knows if you rub an inflated balloon enough you'll create static electricity. That fun electricity, however, can damage a computer. If you connect yourself to the ground, for example, touching metal every so often as you build, any static electricity goes into the ground instead of into your computer. To minimize static electricity, build on a wooden table (not metal), turn power on only when needed, and touch bare metal on a regular basis. You can buy an anti-static wrist band for $5 USD. Using a surge protector also can help, especially with regulating power from your wall.

Do I have to solder?

No. To build a computer, you only have to follow directions in the documentation included with the computer parts, in particular, the motherboard documentation which shows where all the connectors are located. The hardest part will be to carefully push connectors into plugs in tight spaces. Another point to make: whenever possible, buy modular computer parts, especially the power supply unit. Modular parts have most or all cables tucked inside. This means fewer cables for you to find and connect to the motherboard.

What if I have problems while building my computer?

First, you are likely to find problems. The article describes some of the most common ones. The best way to avoid problems? Build your computer step by step, as described in the article. Start by adding the motherboard to your computer case, then add the power supply, then test the computer case power switch turns on. Then repeat the process: disconnect the power cable, add a computer part, then re-connect power to confirm the new part powers up. Always disconnect power BEFORE you add new parts to the motherboard.

Where can I get help building my computer?

We found the Tom's Hardware forums online the best place to find answers quickly, by searching their forums and asking questions. There are other online forums, as well, if you search for your problem. In addition, you might have a hacking space and/or after school group in your town or city where someone can help you with questions. Colleges also might have a computer club. And many libraries have started to offer technology courses and, as a result, might have staff or know someone with answers.

Learn More

PC Part Picker
http://pcpartpicker.com/
PC Part Picker: Where We Started
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/10UbI
Tom's Hardware Forums
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/
Tom's Hardware: Common Solutions to No Boot/Post Problems
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems
How to Ground Yourself While Building a Computer

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2121341/ground-building-computer.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/342537-31-grounding-yourself-time-builder-here

Motherboard (MOBO)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motherboard
CPU (Central Processing Unit)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Central_processing_unit
Hard Drive (HD or HDD)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_drive
Power Supply Unit (PSU)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer)
Random Access Memory (RAM)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Random-access_memory
Video Card

The Parts section and below provide useful background information.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Video_card

About the Author

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How to Build a Computer | beanz Magazine

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Building your own computer is a great way to not only save money, and get more processing power, but also to learn about the less obvious parts of software programming. What is inside your computer? How many parts? Can you guess?

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Some helpful tips to read before purchasing a computer

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Some helpful tips to read before purchasing a computer

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Which laptop should I get?

With so many laptops to choose from, selecting the best one to fit your budget can be like navigating a minefield. Even making sense of the ever-changing list of product specifications is no easy feat. Laptops vary greatly by CPU speed, graphics capability, size, drive storage, and RAM, among other things. What's more, your laptop needs may be completely different to someone else's, only adding to the confusion.

For some, a flashy 4K screen may be important. Others may want a high-performing CPU, like AMD's new Ryzen 6000 processors, to give them a competitive edge in games. Getting value for money can be tricky too, since newer technologies don't always mean better performance. For example, older-generation CPUs can sometimes outperform newer products in benchmark tests. For these reasons it pays to do your homework before you purchase a laptop.

To simplify the process for you we've put together a list of 12 criteria that you can use as a guide for what to look for. It may seem laborious delving into each category, but there are a lot of things to consider. At the end of the day, taking time to research your new device will mean you avoid making a costly mistake and get a laptop that's just right for you.

1. Size & form-factor

When it comes to laptops, size matters.

Depending on what you plan to be doing with your next laptop, you'll want to make sure you pick the size that's the right fit for you. Size isn't like the RAM or ROM of a laptop, you can't upgrade it later. You're locked into whatever form-factor you select up-front, so choose wisely.

Laptops sizes tend to start at 11.6-inches and go all the way up to 17.3 inches. Most brands and OEMS like HP, Dell, ASUS and Acer tend to offer three display sizes - 13.3-inch, 15.6-inch and 17.3-inches. However, some vendors do sell laptops that fall outside these sizes including 11.6-inches, 12.5-inches and 14-inches.

Obviously, if portability is your priority, you'll want to go for a smaller-sized Windows laptop. They tend to be thinner and lighter than their larger counterparts. Look for laptops that have a screen that is either 12.5-inches or 13.3-inches in size, and a weight between 1kg and 1.5kgs.

Credit: Razer

However, keep in mind that smaller-sized 13.3-inch machines often don't support the same high-end Intel Core CPUs or discrete graphics cards you'll be able to find in their 15.6-inch counterparts. Most of the time, they'll also feature a less-robust selection of ports. If the kind of work you intend to be using your new laptop for necessitates a larger display or standalone graphics, you'll probably need to look at a larger size.

Beyond specific sizings, there are several different classes of laptop to choose from. Ultrabooks tend to favor a slim and lightweight form-factor over high-end performance. Things like the Asus Vivobook Pro 15 OLED ( review here) and HP's Elite Dragonfly Max ( review here) devices fall into this category.

By contrast, Notebooks tend to offer a good mix of power and portability. If you're looking at notebooks, a good place to start is the Lenovo Yoga 9i and HP's Envy x360.

Convertibles (also known as 2-in-1 laptops or 2-in-1 PCs) expand on this by adding the ability to fold away (or remove) the keyboard and use your new laptop as you would a tablet. Products like Microsoft's Microsoft Surface Pro 7 and HP Chromebook x2 11 fall into this category.

Credit: Microsoft

Finally, traditional clamshell and gaming laptops tend to boast bulkier form-factors but significantly-beefier specs.

The most important thing to consider here when looking for the best laptop you can buy is what you're actually going to need that laptop to do. It's rarely ever a case of one size fits all. Some users need something lighter and more portable. Other users need discrete graphics for things like video editing or running high end games. If you need a PC with an optical drive or long battery life, you'll almost certainly have to look for something larger.

Once you've worked out the size and form-factor of laptop you're looking for, the search for the best one becomes that much easier - since you can begin to filter your search results by those parameters.

2. Display quality

Since you'll probably end up staring at your laptop display hours at a time, you'll probably want to make sure it's as painless as possible to do so. For this, you'll need a display that is comfortable to look at and feels natural to use.

To start with, you'll want to consider whether you want your next laptop to have a touchscreen at all. These days, touchscreens are very common and they can make some tasks easier than others. Some brands include this feature as standard. Others will demand a modest surcharge for its inclusion.

Unfortunately, opting for a touchscreen can sometimes add a glossiness to the display. Though not a universal trait among touch-sensitive displays, glossier screens are often a little more susceptible to glare. This can be a definite drawback if you're gaming, watching content or editing images and video content.

Modern touchscreens are much better than their predecessors but, some of the above details persist and if you're more of a natural typist, you might want to consider going for a laptop that doesn't have a touchscreen.

Next up, be sure to look at the resolution on any laptop you're thinking of buying. A 1920x1080-pixel resolution (Full HD) should be considered the minimum if you want plenty of space to line up windows and keep things in view. If you splurge on something a little sharper, you probably won't regret it though.

Select modern laptops also now offer 4K resolutions. However, these high-end display panels are generally a costly add-on to an already-expensive product. 4K is an extra that's only really going to be worth it for those who really need it such as content creation professionals.

Photographers and videographers will also want to go for laptops that offer better color accuracy and support wider color gamut and HDR standards over those that don't. The key things you're looking for here are Delta E < 1 color accuracy and 100% coverage of the DCI-P3 color gamut.
[Related Content: Everything You Need To Know About 4K]
If you're a gamer, it's also worth taking the time to check the refresh rate on the display of any potential laptop. A faster refresh rate can often provide a competitive advantage in online games, as it enables a smoother and more responsive play experience. Ideally, you want something with less than 5ms response time or a refresh rate greater than 144Hz. We're starting to see laptops now with 300Hz refresh rates - laptops like the MSI GS66 Stealth ( review here) and the super powerful Asus ROG Strix G15 Advantage Edition ( review here) and while this is considered exceptionally good right now, it might soon be the norm.

Lastly, viewing angles are extremely important. A laptop screen that touts IPS (in-plane switching) technology offers the widest viewing angles and the best user comfort. Chances are you're not always going to be using your laptop in its natural habitat, so a laptop with an IPS display is usually preferred over the opposite.

If possible, take the time to go into a store and try to feel out the differences between different displays for yourself. If your eyes can't see much of a difference between a laptop with a FHD display and one with a 4K one, it might not be worth paying the premium for the latter.

Just keep in mind that display models usually have the settings cranked to the maximum in order to catch your eyes. Otherwise, be sure to check out reviews like those on PC World to get a good overview of the product and whether or not its screen will be able to suit your needs. In 2022, most major laptop displays hit the mark but those that don't make themselves quickly known when subjected to the scrutiny of a professional reviewer.

3. Keyboard quality

For long typing sessions, you'll need to get a laptop that has a comfortable keyboard. You don't want to get a keyboard that packs in every key under the sun (think keyboards that have squished in number pads) because that can translate to a poor overall user experience when hunting for specifics like the arrow or delete keys.

Ideally, you want a keyboard that has a comfortable layout with full-sized keys and some space around the arrow keys. The keys should have adequate travel on the downstroke and snappy responsiveness when you let them go.

Make sure the keyboard is also backlit. At face value, that might seem like a superficial detail but backlit keys make it much easier to see what you're typing in dimly lit environments. Gaming laptops like the Asus ROG Zephyrus S17 ( review here) and MSI Katana GF76 ( review here) come with attractive RGB key backlighting to allow gaming at night or in dimly lit environments. Note: While backlit keys are useful, they will drain your battery sooner, so take that into consideration when choosing your laptop.
[Related Content: Four Alternatives To Cherry MX Switches]

As with the display, it helps to try before you buy - especially if your main task will be typing. Chances are, you're going to find the most comfort with what you know here. If you're used to typing on a laptop keyboard that stretches all the way to the edge of the chassis, you're probably going to find laptops that opt for the same or a similar layout to be easier to type on than the alternatives.

4. CPU

It's hard to go past any of Intel's Core-based CPUs when buying a new laptop. Even if you're not versed in the technical details, there's a good chance you've seen the stickers plastered on all new laptops for the silicon giant's Core i3, Core i5, and Core i7 processors.

For many users, an Intel Core Processor offers the best performance when it comes to multitasking and multimedia tasks. Core i3-based notebooks are generally found in entry-level systems, while Core i5 and Core i7 make up the majority of mainstream computers.

Core i7-based systems are for those of you who want the best performance from your laptop. However, note that with a Core i7-based system, heat coming through the base of the laptop can be a cause for concern, especially if you plan to actually use the laptop on your lap a lot of the time.
[Related Content: How do I decide between a Core i3, i5, i7 or i9?]

Some larger laptops also now incorporate Intel's i9 Core processors. Laptops running on Core i9 processors are even more powerful than laptops running on Core i7 processors. They're able to rival desktops for performance, but they do come with a significantly-higher cost than a laptop with an i7, i5 or i3 Core Processor.

Vendors also offer laptops and notebooks that run on AMD's Ryzen Mobile CPUs. If you're a gamer, this can be a particularly compelling option worth considering. Ryzen Mobile CPUs tend to be paired with AMD's own Radeon graphics chipsets.

There are a few caveats here but since laptops powered by AMD's Ryzen Mobile chips tend to be slightly cheaper than their Intel counterparts, they can represent better value for money. Just be sure to read up on our breakdown of the differences first.

5. RAM

In the old days, you rarely needed more than 4GB of RAM to get the best out of your system.

These days, you'll probably want to think about 8GB as a minimum. If you're a power-user, 16GB is the way to go. Meanwhile, gamers should look at dialing things upwards all the way to 32GB (or beyond) if they want the best experience.

More RAM allows for more applications to be run at the same time and for more data to be quickly accessible by the system at any one time, which comes in handy for tasks such as editing photos or video content.

There are a few interesting terms that you might see when looking into RAM specs, here's what you essentially need to know about them. Alongside the brand and capacity of any RAM stick, you're gonna find the letters DDR. There's also usually a number attached. For example, the MSI GE76 Raider laptop ( review here) has two 16GB sticks of DDR5 RAM. This acronym stands for Double Data Rate and the number that comes after it refers to the generation of component design.

Credit: Gordon Mah Ung

The most recent generation of RAM hardware is DDR5. As a rule, higher numbers are better than lower numbers here and most motherboards can only support certain generations of RAM. Thankfully, since you're looking at buying a laptop, you don't have too much to worry about since no sane OEM is going to stick incompatible RAM into a prebuilt machine.

The number after DDR also denotes the transfer speed. Similar to the clock-speed on a CPU, this number measures the default theoretical maximum transfer speed. Again, higher is better here. Higher speeds means stuff happens faster.

Another detail to note is whether or not the RAM in your laptop is single or dual-channel. In most everyday use cases, this might not make a huge difference but if you're trying to weigh up your options, a laptop with dual-channel is generally more desirable than one with an equivalent amount of single-channel memory clocked at the same transfer speed. This is because dual-channel RAM is able to transfer a greater amount of data at once.

In conclusion, while having more RAM is always going to be better than having less RAM, most users aren't going to feel the difference between having 16GB or 32GB unless they're running RAM-heavy applications where that 16GB or a secondary channel is going to make a big difference. Since RAM is relatively cheap and often easy to upgrade in modern laptops, it's usually smarter and safer to buy a laptop with RAM that you know you will need rather than what you think you might need.

6. Storage

Hard drives used to be all the rage, but these days they're mostly out of favor, especially for thin and light laptops. This is because they can be slow, somewhat bulky, and produce noticeable heat and noise.

A solid state drive (SSD), on the other hand, offers a lot more speed than a hard drive, runs silently, and can be installed in a form factor that doesn't add too much to the weight and bulk of a laptop. As a result of these clear benefits, most OEMs have embraced SSD storage as the standard for laptops.

Stick to an SSD for your new laptop and you'll love the speed with which it can load programs, access your data, and also how quickly it can boot up your system.

Just a few years ago SSDs didn't offer as much raw capacity as hard drives. Additionally, this kind of storage was often more expensive in terms of dollars-to-gigabytes than traditional hard drives. In 2022 these problems are no longer. Laptops now have comparatively large SSD drives to hard drives and aren't astronomically expensive.

The newest, fastest laptops have NVMe solid-state drives which are faster than traditional SSDs. If you're buying a new laptop in 2022, you'll preferably want one with an NVMe SSD. However, that being said, don't feel overly pressured to spend extra on the latest model here. While it is true that more recent SSDs boast better speeds than older models, the biggest advantages you'll enjoy are tied more to the fundamental advances that SSDs offer over traditional hard drive storage.

When it comes to the SSD storage capacity you should look for we recommend at least 512GB as the very minimum. Games and programs are getting larger every year as they become more advanced and complex so you'll want to ensure you have a little left in your storage after you load on your must-have programs and personal files. It's also worth noting that your operating system will take up some of that 512GB right off the bat, so you won't have exactly that number to play.

If you install a lot of programs or have an extensive game or movie library, you'll probably want to opt for 1TB or more of SSD storage. You'd be surprised how fast it is to fill up even 1TB or 2TB, but with the extra GB on board, you will have a greater capacity to branch out and get a little more things you like on there. Trust us, you won't decry the extra space when you can download that game you really wanted from Steam.

Another thing worth mentioning here is cloud storage. Cloud storage is extremely popular since it allows users to store any number of files safely and remotely, without the need for your device's storage. Software developers are starting to build cloud storage into their software ecosystems. The best example of this is Microsoft's OneDrive application which comes bundled with Windows at purchase.

If you intend to store most of your files in the cloud or on an external drive, you may choose to save money on a laptop by buying one with a smaller 128GB or 256GB SSD. If you do this though you'd be advised to remember that you will need to be connected to the Internet to retrieve your files when you need them.

7. Battery life

Manufacturer-quoted battery life is almost never indicative of what the real-world experience of using a laptop is like.

There are simply too many variables that affect battery life. There is the screen brightness, the screen resolution, the number of applications you have running in the background plus whether or not you actively remain connected to Wi Fi networks or Bluetooth devices.

Credit: ASUS

The operating system a laptop runs on can also play a major role in determining battery life. It's for this reason that ultrabooks and convertibles running on Chrome OS tend to offer superior battery life than those running on Windows 11.

If you run programs that need lots of processing, stream lots of online video, play graphics-intensive games or if you transfer lots of files over a wireless network, then your battery will drain a lot sooner than what the vendor has quoted.

A good practice here is to look at the rating of the battery in Watt-hours (Wh) or milliamp-hours (mAh). The larger these figures are, the longer the battery can last. For a 13.3-inch Ultrabook, for example, a battery with a rating from 50Wh to 60Wh will give you the best results.

Another key thing to look for here is fast-charging. Much like modern smartphones, many new laptops also support fast-charging, which is always good in a pinch.

8. USB Type-C

These days, if a laptop has only one USB Type-C port on it, you probably ought to look at buying another laptop. Ideally, you should look for a laptop that has at least a couple of these ports. They're the most common connector port in the industry and, while you can find a dongle for anything on Amazon, it's usually a better bet to just make sure your next laptop has them.

In addition to the baseline utility you get from USB Type-C ports (which allow you to plug in an external hard or SSD drive and backup your data or use conventional mouse or a fancy keyboard with your laptop), USB Type-C ports are substantially faster than USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports. This means that data transfers over USB Type-C ports take significantly less time.

Many modern peripherals also tend to deliver the best performance on or require USB Type-C to function at all.

Credit: Intel

Among the Type-C ports Thunderbolt 4 ports are the best option. Thunderbolt 4 ports have a peak data transfer speed of 40 gigabits per-second. They also offer faster charging and allow you to connect multiple 4K displays or one 8K display to your laptop, which is compelling functionality.

9. Biometric security

Fingerprint readers are great for logging into mobile devices and the latest Windows 11 Operating System makes further use of them with its Windows Hello system. People can guess your password, but few can fake a fingerprint. In order to keep the contents of your laptop secure, a portable PC with a fingerprint reader is usually the best way forward.

Thankfully, this feature is a pretty common inclusion on many modern laptops from major OEMs like ASUS, Dell and HP. Some have even integrated the fingerprint sensor into the keyboard, making it feel like a more cohesive part of the package rather than a bolt-on.

What's more, some brands have even gone one step further and introduced FaceID-style facial recognition tech allowing you to unlock your laptop with a glance. As with Android phones, there's a distinction to be noted here between devices that rely on a 2D-model of face unlock versus those that offer full 3D biometrics.

It's cool to see the modern laptops continue to raise the bar on this particular front even if the degree to which it matters is largely personal preference. For most people, a standard fingerprint sensor is going to provide more than enough peace of mind.

10. Build quality

No matter how careful we are, most laptops are inevitably going to find themselves, dropped, thrown and knocked around by the rigors of everyday use. For that reason, it's worth checking out how much testing a laptop has undergone (the manufacturer usually crows about it) or whether there's any sort of certification that you can put your confidence behind.

Modern laptops are often ruggedized to withstand rain and dust. Some are built especially for the brutal educational environments - and come with military-grade protection certifications. The most common of these you're going to see is MIL-STD 810G.

MIL-STD-810G is a standard used by the US Military to indicate a guaranteed minimum level of durability. Compliant products have made it through a gauntlet of 29 separate tests that measure resistance to shock, heat, cold, humidity and more. Though originally developed as a way to win government contracts, MIL-STD-810G has become increasingly common in consumer tech in recent years.

On one hand, it's good for consumers that most major manufacturers have adopted the same language and standards for measuring durability at all. However, on the other, the reality is that having a product be MIL-STD-810G compliant doesn't always translate into the kind of ruggedness you'd hope it would.

Although the MIL-STD-810G standard was developed externally, there's no single independent party that's responsible for handing out certification to the standard nor any regulator that's able to call out bad actors for misusing or misrepresenting MIL-STD-810G.

Manufacturers can absolutely take their testing in-house, "ace" it and put the sticker on the box. There's no limit on how many attempts a product has to pass a certain test, nor even a limit on whether the same product sample needs to survive all 29 tests or whether they can replace it with a fresh model every step of the way. They don't even need to provide proof that the testing ever happened.

From the perspective of any everyday consumer, there's zero difference in how a product that was properly and independently tested to meet MIL-STD-810G looks and how a product that "fudged" their way into compliance with the standard looks. This is obviously problematic.

For those reasons, MIL-STD-810G is best used as starting place when it comes to thinking about durability and build quality in your next laptop. It shouldn't be your one and only consideration.

A better way to approach the problem is to look at the laptops design and what specific claims are being made around durability. Are the manufacturers talking up drop-tests or spill resistance that goes beyond the usual MIL-STD-810G spiel? That's probably a good sign.

11. LTE, Wi-Fi, or Ethernet?

When it comes to purchasing a laptop, a big question you should ask is: Should I buy a laptop with LTE? Unlike laptops with built-in network cards, laptops with LTE can connect to mobile data signals. That means instead of having to connect to a wireless network at home, in the office, or at Wi-Fi hotspots, your laptop can connect directly to a mobile ISP for internet access. The main benefit of this is you can use your laptop just about anywhere-when outdoors, traveling on the bus, or even on the beach. If that convenience sounds good, this option may be perfect for you. However, there are a few caveats.

LTE technology sits in the higher-end laptop category, so you will pay for the privilege. Also, just like with your phone, you'll need to either be on a data plan or buy prepaid data to use your LTE. And as such, your experience will be influenced by the speed of your laptop's network connection and by the amount of data in your plan.

Know what LTE network your laptop will connect to, since this will determine your internet speeds. The most common LTE technology in laptops in Australia today supports connection to the 4G networks. 4G is capable of maximum download speeds of 1Gbs, which is close to most home broadband speeds. But 5G laptops will soon be coming to Australia. These laptops, when available, will feature significantly faster speeds of between 10-30Gbs. If superfast internet is a priority, go for 5G.

If you are not fussed about having LTE or want to avoid the ongoing fees, a laptop with Wi-Fi-only functionality will do just fine. Most laptops come with built-in network cards so you won't need to fuss over installations or affix dongles. You can also use mobile Wi-Fi tethering as a source of Wi-Fi on the fly.

The last thing to consider with your internet connectivity, is whether you need an Ethernet (RJ-45) port. Most people don't use this functionality anymore, since Wi-Fi connectivity is so widespread. But, if you're plagued by a weak Wi-Fi signal, or lack Wi-Fi altogether, you should consider it. Otherwise, it's not necessary.

12. Wi-Fi speed

Wi-Fi speeds are determined by many different factors, such as signal strength and the level of interference between your laptop and your router, but the one factor that you should think about when purchasing a new laptop is the Wi-Fi speed of your laptop's network card.

The speed at which your laptop transfers data from an internet router to your laptop and back is called its link speed and it is measured in bits per second (bps). Even if your internet connection is fast, if your link speed is lousy, your Wi-Fi speed will struggle.

Most laptops with network cards connect to wireless hotspots on either the 2.4GHz or 5GHz frequency band, meaning they are capable of maximum link speeds of 1Gbs or 3.5Gbs. When it comes to Wi-Fi generations, Wi-Fi 5 is getting a bit old now but will still perform well for almost anything you'd need to do online, such as browsing webpages, watching videos, and running browser-based applications.

Most new laptops though will have network cards that support either Wi-Fi 6 or the newer Wi-Fi 6E. If you are a gamer who likes playing fast-paced multiplayer content, or if you stream high-quality video, we recommend you look for either of these options. The main benefit here is lower latency - Wi-Fi 6 and Wi-Fi 6E offer substantial speed benefits (up to 9.6Gbs). Wi-Fi speeds won't always be listed in the product descriptions online or in retail outlets, but they will be listed in the detailed product specifications, so check there if you're unsure.

Meet your needs and budget
This article was updated by Dominic Bayley in May 2022.

Of course, you need to balance these features with your budget and your needs, and you might have to make some compromises. Rarely does a laptop come along that ticks all the boxes, especially when it comes to price.

Let us know in the comments below if you consider other aspects of a laptop to be more important (maybe you want better gaming performance or a rugged build, maybe you want a laptop that can turn into a tablet), and especially let us know if you've already found the perfect laptop for your needs.

Tags notebooks laptops checklist laptop buying guide laptop features buying tips

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What laptop should I get? Top 12 things to consider

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What laptop should I get? How should I decide? With a plethora of options, including powerful new laptops featuring AMD's Ryzen 6000 and Intel's 12th-generation processors, choosing a laptop is harder than ever. But by taking a little time to do some research, you can find exactly what you need.

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Here are a few websites that will help you determine the aspects of the purchase.

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Here are a few websites that will help you determine the aspects of the purchase.

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Compact enough to carry with you, yet versatile enough to run demanding applications, a laptop is the best tool for doing serious work or play at home and on the road. While standalone tablets and smartphones are always popular, most people realize that everything from typing a research paper to crunching video to gaming works better on a laptop. So what type of laptop should you get?

There's a wide variety of sizes, features and prices, which makes choosing the right laptop a challenge. That's why you need to figure out what your needs are. To make the right call, just follow these steps.

1. Pick a Platform: Mac, Windows or Chrome OS?

This is not an easy question to answer, especially if you're not familiar with both Macs and PCs. But this quick overview of each platform's strengths and weaknesses should help.

Most laptops come with one of three operating systems: Windows, Chrome OS or Mac OS X (for MacBooks only). Choosing the right one is a personal preference, but here's a quick summary of what each offers.

Windows 10

The most flexible operating system, Windows appears on many more makes and models than Chrome OS or Mac OS X. Windows notebooks range in price from under $150 to several thousand dollars and offer a wide array of features from touch screens to fingerprint readers to dual graphics chips. Windows 10, the latest version of Microsoft's flagship operating system, provides a number of improvements over Windows 7 and 8, including the ability to switch between tablet and desktop modes, a revamped Start menu with live tiles and the powerful Cortana digital assistant. Since its launch in July 2015, Windows 10 has also added a host of improvements, including the ability to use follow-up questions with Cortana, search your email using natural language and use your stylus to scribble almost anywhere.
MORE: 100+ Windows 10 Tips to Help You Master Microsoft's OS
Apple macOS Sierra

All MacBooks come with Apple's latest desktop operating system, macOS Sierra. Overall, the operating system offers similar functionality to Windows 10, but with a different take on the interface that substitutes an apps dock at the bottom of the screen for Microsoft's Start menu and taskbar. Instead of the Cortana digital assistant, Mac users get Siri. They can also perform transactions with Apple Pay, take calls or texts from their phones and unlock their laptops with an Apple Watch. However, macOS isn't made for touch, because no MacBook comes with a touch screen.
MORE: MacBook Air vs MacBook Pro: What Should You Buy?
Chrome OS

Found on inexpensive "Chromebooks" such as the Lenovo 100S Chromebook, Google's OS is simple and secure, but limited. The user interface looks a lot like Windows with an application menu, a desktop and the ability to drag windows around, but the main app you use is the Chrome browser. The downside is that many of the "web apps" you use don't work particularly well offline.

However, the operating if you need a device to surf the Web and check email, navigate social networks and chat online, Chromebooks are inexpensive and highly portable, and they offer good battery life. Google is also slowly adding support for Android apps , with a handful of Chromebooks able to run Google Play today.
MORE: Best Chromebooks Available Now
2. Decide If You Want a 2-in-1

These days, many PC laptops fall into the category of "2-in-1s," devices that can switch between traditional clamshell mode, tablet mode and other positions in between such as tent or stand modes. The 2-in-1s generally come in two different styles: detachables with screens that come off the keyboard entirely and flexible laptops with hinges that bend back 360 degrees to change modes. Most of these systems are much better at serving one purpose than the other, with bend-backs being laptops first and detachables offering a superior tablet experience. However, if you don't see the need to use your notebook as a slate, you'll usually get more performance for your money and a better productivity experience with a traditional clamshell laptop.

If you decide you want a 2-in-1, note that bendables usually have far better battery life than their detachable brethren.
MORE: Windows Detachables Have Big Battery Life Problem
3. Choose the Right Size

Before you look at specs or pricing, you need to figure out just how portable you need your laptop to be. Laptops are usually categorized by their display sizes:

11 to 12 inches: The thinnest and lightest systems around have 11- to 12-inch screens and typically weigh 2.5 to 3.5 pounds,

13 to 14 inches: Provides the best balance of portability and usability, particularly if you get a laptop that weighs under 4 pounds.

15 inches: The most popular size, 15-inch laptops usually weigh 4.5 to 6.5 pounds. Consider this size if you want a larger screen and you're not planning to carry your notebook around often.

17 to 18 inches: If your laptop stays on your desk all day every day, a 17- or 18-inch system could provide you with the kind of processing power you need to play high-end games or do workstation-level productivity.

4. Check That Keyboard and Touchpad

The most impressive specs in the world don't mean diddly if the laptop you're shopping for doesn't have good ergonomics. If you plan to do a lot of work on your computer, make sure the keyboard offers solid tactile feedback, plenty of vertical travel (distance the key goes down when pressed, usually 1 to 2mm) and enough space between the keys.

Look for an accurate touchpad that doesn't give you a jumpy cursor and responds consistently to multitouch gestures such as pinch-to-zoom. If you're buying a business laptop, consider getting one with a pointing stick (aka nub) between the G and H keys so you can navigate around the desktop without lifting your fingers off the keyboard's home row.

5. Pick Your Specs

Notebook components such as processor, hard drive, RAM and graphics chip can confuse even notebook aficionados, so don't feel bad if spec sheets look like alphabet soup to you.

Here are the main components to keep an eye on.

CPU: The "brains" of your computer, the processor has a huge influence on performance, but depending on what you want to do, even the least-expensive model may be good enough. Here's a rundown.

Intel Core i5: If you're looking for a mainstream laptop with the best combination of price and performance, get one with an Intel Core i5 CPU. Models that end in U (ex: Core i5-7200U) are the most common. Those with the a Y in the name are low power and have worse performance while models with an HQ offer four cores. Intel's latest-generation, "Kaby Lake" CPUs have model numbers that begin with 7 (ex: Core i5-7300U) so look for those to get the best performance.

Intel Core i7: High-end performance for gaming rigs and workstations. Models with numbers that end in HQ or K use higher wattage and have four cores, allowing for even faster gaming and productivity. There are also Core i7 Y series chips that have lower power and performance. Keep an eye out for CPUs that have a 7 in the model number (ex: Core i7-7820HQ) because they are part of Intel's latest, 7th Generation Core Series, and offer better performance.

Intel Core i3: Performance is just a step below Core i5 and so is the price. If you can possibly step up to a Core i5, we recommend it.

AMD A, FX or E Series: Found on low-cost laptops, AMD's processors -- the company calls them APUs rather than CPUs -- provide decent performance for the money that's good enough for web surfing, media viewing and productivity.

Intel Atom: Found on very low-cost laptops -- think $250 and under -- Atom offers basic performance but more battery life than Celeron/Pentium.

Intel Pentium / Celeron: Common in sub $400 laptops, these chips are a little faster than Atom, but offer worse battery life. If you can pay more to get a Core i3 or i5, you'd be better off.

Intel Core m / Core i5 / i7 "Y Series" -- Low-power and low heat allow systems with these processors to go fanless. Performance is better than Celeron, but a notch below regular Core i5 U series.

Intel Xeon: Extremely powerful and expensive processors for large mobile workstations. If you do professional-grade engineering, 3D modeling or video editing, you might want a Xeon, but you won't get good battery life or a light laptop.

MORE: Which Laptop CPU is Right for You?

RAM: Some sub-$250 laptops come with only 2GB of RAM, but ideally you want at least 4GB on even a budget system and 8GB if you can spend just a little more. For most users, 16GB or more is overkill.

Storage Drive (aka Hard Drive): Even more important than the speed of your CPU is the performance of your storage drive. If you can afford it and don't need a ton of internal storage, get a laptop with a solid state drive (SSD) rather than a hard drive, because you'll see at least three times the speed and a much faster laptop overall.
Among SSDs, the newer PCIe x4 (aka NVME) units offer triple the speed of traditional SATA drives. Sub-$250 laptops use eMMC memory, which is technically solid-state but not faster than a mechanical hard drive.

Display: The more pixels you have, the more content you can fit on-screen, and the sharper it will look. Most budget and mainstream laptops have 1366 x 768 displays, but if you can afford it, we recommend paying extra for a panel that runs at 1920 x 1080, also known as full HD or 1080p. Some higher-end laptops have screens that are 2560 x 1600, 3200 x 1800 or even 3840 x 2160, which all look sharp but consume more power, lowering your battery life.MORE: Why 78 Percent of Laptop Screens Suck

Touch Screen: If you're buying a regular clamshell laptop, rather than a 2-in-1, you won't get much benefit from a touch screen and you will get 1 to 3 hours less battery life. On 2-in-1s, touch screens come standard.

Graphics Chip: If you're not playing PC games, creating 3D objects or doing high-res video editing, an integrated graphics chip (one that shares system memory) will be fine. If you have any of the above needs, though, a discrete graphics processor from AMD or Nvidia is essential. As with CPUs, there are both high- and low-end graphics chips. Nvidia maintains a list of its graphics chips from low to high end, as does AMD.

DVD/Blu-ray Drives. Few laptops come with optical drives, because all software and movies are downloadable. However, if you really need to read / write discs and your laptop of choice doesn't come with a built-in DVD drive, you can always buy an external one that connects via USB for under $20.

6. Don't Skimp on Battery Life

If you're buying large, bulky notebook that you'll use only on a desk near an outlet, you don't have to worry about battery life. However, if you plan to use the laptop on your lap, even if it's at home and or work, you'll want at least 6 hours of endurance, with 8+ hours being ideal. To determine a notebook's expected battery life, don't take the manufacturer's word for it. Instead, read third-party results from objective sources, such as our reviews.
MORE: Laptops with the Longest Battery Life
7. Plan Based on Your Budget

These days, you can buy a usable laptop for under $200, but if you can budget more, you'll get a system with better build quality, stronger performance and a better display. Here's what you can get for each price range.

$150 to $250: The least-expensive notebooks are either Chromebooks, which run Google's browser-centric OS, or low-end Windows systems with minimal storage and slower processors, such as the HP Stream 11 and the Lenovo Ideapad 100S. Use these as secondary computers only or give them to the kids.

$350 to $600: For well under $600, you can get a notebook with an Intel Core i5 or AMD A8 CPU, 4 to 8GB of RAM, and a 500GB hard drive, all respectable specs. However, at this price, most notebooks don't have an SSD, a full-HD display or long battery life. There are a few noteable exceptions, such as the Asus VivoBook E403Sa and Lenovo ThinkPad 13.

$600 to $900: As you get above $600, you'll start to see more premium designs, such as metal finishes. Manufacturers also start to add in other features as you climb the price ladder, including higher-resolution displays and SSDs.

Above $900: At this price range, expect notebooks that are more portable, more powerful or both. Expect higher-resolution screens, faster processors and possibly discrete graphics. The lightest, longest-lasting ultraportables, like the Apple MacBook and the Dell XPS 13, tend to cost more than $1,000 (although you can get the Dell for less if you don't opt for a touch screen). High-end gaming systems and mobile workstations usually cost upward of $1,500 or even as much as $2,500 or $3,000.

8.Mind the Brand

Your laptop is only as good as the company that stands behind it. Accurate and timely technical support is paramount, which is why Laptop Mag evaluates every major brand in our annual Tech Support Showdown. This past year Apple came in first place, followed by HP and Samsung.This past year Apple came in first place, followed by Microsoft and Samsung.

Support is only part of what makes a notebook brand worth your money. You also have to consider how the manufacturer stacks up to the competition in terms of design, value and selection, review performance and other criteria. In our 2015 Best and Worst Laptop Brands report, Apple placed first, followed by Dell and HP.
MORE: Best and Worst Notebook Brands
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Compact enough to carry with you, yet versatile enough to run demanding applications, a laptop is the best tool for doing serious work or play at home and on the road. While standalone tablets and smartphones are always popular, most people realize that everything from typing a research paper to crunching video to gaming works better on a laptop.

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