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Trails of Hope: Overland Diaries and Letters, 1846-1869 is a collection of the original writings of 49 voyagers on the Mormon, California, Oregon, and Montana trails who wrote while traveling on the trail. Some diarists speak with uncommon eloquence and others with maddening brevity, while telling their stories of persistence and pain, birth and death, God and gold, dust and debris, bugs and buffalo, love and laughter, and trail tedium.

Accompanying the original diary images and their searchable transcripts are 43 contemporary maps; seven trail guides; 82 photographs, watercolors and art sketches; four essays on the Mormon and California trails, maps and trail guides; suggested readings for further discovery; and brief biographies of 45 of the 49 diarists.

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Trails of Hope: Overland Diaries and Letters, 1846-1869

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Trails of Hope: Overland Diaries and Letters, 1846-1869 is a collection of the original writings of 49 voyagers on the Mormon, California, Oregon, and Montana trails who wrote while traveling on the trail.

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Diary of Narcissa Whitman

ON
BOARD STEAMBOAT SIAM March 15, 1836.

Dear,
Dear Mother: Your proposal concerning keeping a diary as I journey comes before
my mind often. I have not found it practicable while traveling by land, although
many events have passed which, if noted as they occurred, might have been
interesting. We left Pittsburgh this morning at ten o'clock and are sailing at
the rate of thirteen miles an hour. It is delightful passing so rapidly down the
waters of the beautiful river. The motion of the boat is very agreeable to me,
except while writing. Our accommodations are good; we occupy a stateroom where
we can be as retired as we wish. Two boats left Pittsburgh before we did, but
they are now in our rear. The captain of one of them became very angry because
we attempted to pass, and shot into our path before us. For a time we thought
injury would be done by their coming in contact but we passed her unhurt. The
siam was a very strong boat and might have sunk the other without much
difficulty. It is an imposing scene to see the march of these stately figures as
they pass us on the waters. Some are very large, and are swarming with
inhabitants. It has been quite pleasant to-day, but too cold to be on deck much
of the time. We have seen no snow since we left the Allegheny
mountains.

March
28.- We have just come on board the Majestic. It is rightly named, for it is one
of the largest boats on the river. We are now sailing on the waters of the great
Mississippi. When I commenced this sheet we had just left Pittsburgh. We arrived
in Cincinnati Thursday noon. Found Brother Spalding. Said he had been waiting
for us anxiously for a fortnight; spent the remainder of the week in making
arrangements for our journey, and on the Sabbath had a very interesting time
with the disciples of Jesus there; felt strengthened and comforted as we left
them, to pursue our journey into the wilderness. Much good feeling was
manifested in the churches - a deep interest appeared to be taken in the
missions. Especially our two Indian youth attracted the gaze and admiration of a
crowd on Sabbath, but our expectations were not realized, and Saturday night
found us on the waters of the Mississippi, eighty-nine miles from St. Louis. We
felt it our duty not to travel on the Sabbath, and determined to leave the boat,
although many on board tried to persuade us to remain, and have preaching on the
Sabbath, and of the number one was a Presbyterian minister from New York, who
appeared quite anxious to detain us. At ten o'clock we landed at Chester,
Illinois, and had a most delightful Sabbath of rest with the few disciples of
Jesus we found there. An aged minister, who had been toiling in this part of the
vineyard ever since the year 1817, we found of a kindred spirit. He preaches to
several congregations. Said he had not had a brother minister to preach for him
since he had been there; and to have a mission family call and enjoy the
privileges of the Sabbath with him seemed like angels' visits. He had heard of
their passing and repassing, often, Mr. Spalding preached in the forenoon, and
in the afternoon my husband requested the children and youth to meet in a
Sabbath school, and we distributed a number of books among them. Of the number
we found one young man who professed to be a Roman Catholic - said he wanted to
know our religion - had not a Protestant Bible, but if he had one would read it
attentively. My husband gave him a testament, for which he appeared
grateful.

Since
we came on board we have come on very pleasantly; our accommodations are better
here than on any previous boat-excellent cooks, and enough to eat - servants who
stand at our elbows ready to supply every want.

Five
o'clock.- We are now fast upon a sand-bar, but think we shall soon get off. It
has rained all day - a dense fog covers the river, so that it is impossible to
shun them. We shall be obliged to lie still to-night.

29th,
Tuesday morning. - Fog very thick this morning, but now appears to be
dispersing. We shall expect to see St. Louis to-day. Cold and damp, and am
obliged to stay in my room. Can scarcely resist the temptation to stand out to
view the shores of this majestic river. Varied scenes present themselves as we
pass up - beautiful landscapes - on the one side high and rugged bluffs, and on
the other low plains.

Evening. - We are now in port.
Husband has been to the office, expecting to find letters from dear, dear
friends at home, but find none. Why have they not written? seeing it is the very
last, last time they will have to cheer my heart with intelligence from home,
home, sweet home, and the friends I love. But I am not sad. My health is good.
My mind completely occupied with present duty and passing events. St. Louis has
a commanding situation. It is so late and foggy, our view of it as we come in is
quite indistinct.

Wednesday, 30th. - A boat is in
port, ready to take us up the Missouri, and will leave to-day. I intended to
write several letters from here, expecting to spend some time, but as we made
our purchases at Cincinnati, it is not necessary. When we were in Pittsburgh we
heard that the Fur Company's steamboat Diana had left St. Louis. We then
expected to make our journey from Liberty to Bellview by land, probably on
horseback, 300 miles of which would have been the most difficult part of the
journey, on account of the season and high water. But Providence has ordered it
otherwise. Since we arrived here we learn that the Diana snagged herself and
sunk, but in shallow water, so that no lives were lost. We have the promise of
overtaking her before we reach Liberty. She is now lying up for repairs and
drying her freight. We had a call from a gentleman this morning, who has resided
in the mountains. Richard knew him very well. Is going back with us. He was
formerly from Cincinnati. It seems to me now that we are on the very borders of
civilization, although we shall pass many towns on our way to Liberty. At this
moment my feelings are peculiar. I hardly know how to define them. I have not
one feeling of regret at the step which I have taken, but count it a privilege
to go forth in the name of my Master, cheerfully bearing the toil and privation
that we expect to encounter. I intend to write home from Council Bluffs if I am
not prevented, and give some statements which I cannot now. We could not pack
all contained in that box sent us from Angelica. What we could not, Brother
Whitman took home to sell for us, and sent the avails to St. Louis. How
anxiously I looked for a line or two from some one of the dear family, in that
box somewhere, but I saw none. Jane, don't forget to write to them for me. It is
out of my power to write as much as I should like to. How often I think of the
Christians in Angelica - those beloved sisters and brothers, with whom we have
knelt before the altar of prayer. Surely, now I feel the influence of their
prayers, although widely separated. Say to them we wish them to rejoice with us,
and thank God for his kind protection, and the prosperity which has attended us
since we left home; we are making arrangements for crossing the mountains, and
shall expect o, unless prevented in the Providence of God. It think I should
like to whisper in mother's ear many things which I cannot write. If I could
only see her in her room for one-half hour. This much I can, mother. I have one
of the kindest husbands, and the very best every way. Tell father by the side of
his calomel he has taken a quarter of a pound of lobelia and a large quantity of
cayenne, which will answer my purpose better than some of the apothecary
medicines.

My
husband unites with me in sending a great deal of love to dear friends there -
G. and F. J., C.H.E. and N., and to father and mother. Mr. and Mrs. Spalding
will go with us over the mountains. We send our Christian regard to Brother and
Sister Hull, Brother and Sister Allen and Sister Patrick, and all who inquire. I
have become very much interested in the Nez Perces lads; they are very
affectionate and seem to wish to please us in everything. We think they will be
of great service to the mission in various ways. We have just had a call from
Dr. and Mrs. Misner. We expect the boat will leave us soon.

Farewell dear, dear parents. Pray
for your unworthy children.

NARCISSA WHITMAN

P.S.
- Mother, I forgot to say that I heard Dr. Beecher in C., when I was there. Was
introduced to Rev. Mr. Galliger, but did not hear him. My husband heard him in
Pittsburgh - I was not able to go to church that day, because of a severe
headache. Dr. B. appears the same in the pulpit that he does at a distance - I
mean his preaching. He is a small man, quite indifferent in his appearance. I
could hardly believe it was he when I saw him come.

N.W.

Mr.
Stephen Prentice, Angelica, Allegheny Co., New York. ON BOARD STEAMBOAT CHARITON
Thursday, March 31, 1836. Dear Sister Jane: We did not leave last night as
expected, and the day being very pleasant, gave me an opportunity of visiting
the city. Received a call from our old acquaintance, Rev. Milton Kimball, and
with him visited the cathedral. It was high-mass day.

We
left the cathedral, after staying about an hour; called and made some purchases,
then returned to the boat, and found that Mr. Lovejoy had called, to give us an
invitation to dinner with him. Felt regret very much that I did not see him. My
husband saw him. he wished to know when we were married, because he designed to
publish it in the Observer. He still continues to edit his paper in St.
Louis.

We
left St. Louis immediately after dinner. Passed many delightful residences in
Missouri, on the banks of the Mississippi, just as we leave the city. Dwellings
situated upon mounds, and many remaining ones yet to be occupied - natural
mounds, in appearance like that at Amity, only much larger. One of them is the
situation of a female academy, now building. My curiosity was Uncle Sam's
toothpullers - two huge-looking boats lying to. They fearlessly run into danger,
search out difficulties, and remove them. I should like to see them in
operation, but shall not expect to now. Twilight had nearly gone when we entered
the waters of the great Missouri, but the moon shone in her brightness. It was a
beautiful evening. My husband and myself went upon the top of the boat, to take
a more commanding view of the scenery. How majestic, how grand, was the scene!
the meeting of two such great waters. "Surely, how admirable are thy works, O
Lord of Hosts." I could have dwelt upon the scene still longer with pleasure,
but Brother Spalding called us to prayers, and we left beholding the works of
God for his immediate worship.

April
1st. - Nothing of much importance occurred to-day. My eyes are satiated with the
same beautiful scenery all along the coasts of this mighty river, so peculiar to
this western country. One year ago to-day since my husband first arrived in St.
Louis on his exploring route to the mountains. We are one week earlier passing
up the river this spring than he was last year. While the boat stopped to take
in wood we went on shore, found some rushes, picked a branch of cedar, went to a
spring for clear water (the river water is very rily at all times), and rambled
considerably in pursuit of new objects. One of these circumstances I must
mention, which was quite diverting to us. On the rocks near the river we found a
great quantity of the prickly pear. Husband knew from experience the effects of
handling them, and cautioned me against them, but I thought I could just take
one and put it in my india-rubber apron pocket, and carry it to the boat. I did
so, but after rambling a little I thought to take it out, and behold, my pocket
was filled with its needles, just like a caterpillar's bristles. I became
considerably annoyed with them; they covered my hands, and I have scarcely got
rid of them yet. My husband would have laughed at me a little, were it not for
his own misfortune. He thought to discover what kind of mucilage it was by
tasting it - cut one in two, bit it, and covered his lips completely. We then
had to sympathize with each other, and were glad to render mutual assistance in
a case of extermination.

April
2nd, evening, ten o'clock. - We have come on well since we left St. Louis.
Sailed all night last night, which is a rare thing on this river, on account of
snags and sandbars. We are now at Jefferson City, about half way to Liberty from
St. Louis. How long we stop here I do not know - perhaps all night.

Monday, 4th. - We passed the wreck
of the Steamboat Siam to-day about noon. It is indeed a melancholy sight. She
was not quite a year old. She ran upon a snag and sank, last winter. No lives
lost. We stopped to-day at Chariton, about an hour. We went on shore and visited
a steam sawmill. It was quite a curiosity, as well as the great engine that
propels the boat upon the mighty waters.

Thursday, 7th. - Very pleasant, but
cold. This morning the thermometer stood at 24 at nine o-clock. I have not seen
any snow since we left the Allegheny mountains, before the 15th of March. I
should like to know about the snow in New York. Is it all gone? How did it go,
and the consequences? Mary, we have had a sick one with us all the way since we
joined Dr. Satterlee. Mrs. Satterlee has had a very bad cough and cold, which
has kept her feeble. She is now recovering, and is as well as can be expected.
The rest of us have been very well, except feeling the effects of drinking the
river water. I am in exception, however. My health was never better than since I
have been on the river. I was weighed last week, and came up to 136 pounds. I
think I shall endure the journey well - perhaps better than any of the rest of
us. Mrs. Spalding does not look nor feel quite healthy enough for our
enterprise. Riding affects her differently from what it does me. Everyone who
sees me compliments me as being the best able to endure the journey over the
mountains. Sister S. is very resolute - no shrinking with her. She possesses
much fortitude. I like her very much. She wears well upon acquaintance. She is
very suitable person for Mr. Spalding - has the right temperment to match him. I
think we shall get along very well together; we have so far. I have such a good
place to shelter - under my husband's wings. He is so excellent. I love to
confide in his judgment, and act under him, for it gives me a chance to improve.
Jane, if you want to be happy get as good a husband as I have got, and be a
missionary. Mary, I wish you were with us. You would be happy, as I am. The way
looks pleasant, notwithstanding we are so near encountering the difficulties of
an unheard-of journey for females. I think it would do your health good, as well
as Lyman and Brother J.G., too.

This
letter is free plunder. Jane, I will write to you again. What I say to one, I
say to all. I should like to write to each of you, separately, but I wish to
write so many ways that my time is so occupied that I cannot write as much I
want to. Since we have been here we have made our tent. It is made of
bedticking, in a conical form, large enough for us all to sleep under - viz.:
Mr. Spalding and wife, Dr. Whitman and wife, Mr. Gray, Richard
Tak-ah-too-ah-tis, and John Altz; quite a little family - raised with a
centerpole and fastened down with pegs, covering a large circle. Here we shall
live, eat and sleep for the summer to come, at least - perhaps longer. Mary, you
inquired concerning my beds and bedding. I will tell you. We five spread our
India-rubber cloth on the ground, then our blankets, and encamp for the night.
We take plenty of Mackinaw blankets, which answer for our bed and bedding, and
when we journey place them over our saddles and ride on them. I wish you could
see our outfit.

I had
made for me, in Brother Augustus' shoe store, in Rushville, a pair of
gentlemen's boots, and from him we supplied ourselves with what shoes we wanted.
We have each of us a life-preserver, so that if we fall into the water we shall
not drown. They are made of India-rubber cloth, air-tight, and when filled with
air and placed under the arm will prevent one from sinking. Each of us take a
plate, knife and fork and a tin cup. Mary, when we are under way I will describe
the whole proceeding to you. When I see it before my eyes I can give a better
description, for I shall have a better understanding of it. Husband has got me
an excellent sidesaddle, and a very easy horse. He made me a present of a mule
to ride, the other day, so I do not know which I shall like best - I have not
tried the latter, Richard says "That's very bad mule - can't catch buffaloes."
That is the test with him. An animal's speed makes him good, in his eye. I shall
write you from Council Bluffs and at every opportunity, especially when Mr.
Parker returns. We have lately received a letter from Mrs. Parker. O, what a
spirit it breathed! When we were there she said if we could not get a minister
to go with us we might keep Mr. Parker until one came, if we would only go on,
and even now she has given permission for him to stay a year longer, and visit
another tribe to the south. I wish I could show you her letter. You say Brother
J.G. and his wife have been to Ithaca. Why did he not go when I was there? I had
a good visit with Deacon and Mrs. Rolla, and a piece of a song, too, but not
half enough. He sent me the "Missionary's Farewell," by Dr. Satterlee; music, by
himself. Alas! my husband don't come to-night; the wind has blown so hard that I
expect he has not been able to cross the river. Brother Gray is with him. I
shall not feel so anxious about him on that account, so adieu for to-night. It
is almost ten o'clock, and the family have all gone to rest.

I
should like to tell you how the western people talk, if I had room. Their
language is so singular that I could scarcely understand them, yet it was very
amusing. In speaking of quantity, they say "heap of man, heap of water, she is
heap sick", etc. If you ask, "How does your wife today?" "O, she is smartly
better, I reckon, but she is powerful weak; she has been mighty bad. What's the
matter with your eye?"

PLATTE RIVER, JUST ABOVE THE FORKS,
JUNE 3RD, 1836.

Dear
Sister Harriet and Brother Edward: Friday eve, six o'clock. We have just
encamped for the night near the bluffs over against the river. The bottoms are a
soft, wet plain, and we were obliged to leave the river yesterday for the
bluffs. The face of the country yesterday afternoon and today has been rolling
sand bluffs, mostly barren, quite unlike what our eyes have been satiated with
for weeks past. No timber nearer than the Platte, and the water tonight is very
bad - got from a small ravine. We have usually had good water precious to
this.

Our
fuel for cooking since we left timber (no timber except on rivers) has been
dried buffalo dung; we now find plenty of it and it answers a very good purpose,
similar to the kind of coal used in Pennsylvania (I suppose now Harriet will
make up a face at this, but if she was here she would be glad to have her supper
cooked at any rate in this scarce timber country). The present time in our
journey is a very important one. The hunter brought us buffalo meat yesterday
for the first time. Buffalo were seen today but none have been taken. We have
some for supper tonight. Husband is cooking it - no one of the company professes
the art but himself. I expect it will be very good. Stop - I have so much to say
to the children that I do not know in what part of my story to begin. I have
very little time to write. I will first tell you what our company consists of.
We are ten in number; five missionaries, three Indian boys and two young men
employed to assist in packing animals.

Saturday, 4th. Good morning, H. and
E. I wrote last night till supper; after that it was dark I could not see. I
told you how many bipeds there was in our company last night; now for the
quadrupeds: Fourteen horses, six mules and fifteen head of cattle. We milk four
cows. We started with seventeen, but we have killed one calf, and the Fur
Company, being out of provision, have taken one of our cows for beef. It is
usually pinching times with the Company before they reach the buffalo. We have
had plenty because we made ample provision at Liberty. We purchased a barrel of
flour and baked enough to last us, with killing a calf or two, until we reached
the buffalo.

The
Fur Company is large this year; we are really a moving village - nearly 400
animals, with ours, mostly mules, and 70 men. The Fur Company have seven wagons
drawn by six mules each, heavily loaded, and one cart drawn by two mules, which
carries a lame man, one of the proprietors of the Company. We have two wagons in
our company. Mr. and Mrs. S., husband and myself ride in one, Mr. Gray and the
baggage in the other. Our Indian boys drive the cows and Dulin the horses. Young
Miles leads our forward horses, four in each team. Now E., if you want to see
the camp in motion, look away ahead and see first the pilot and the captain,
Fitzpatrick, just before him, next the pack animals, all mules, loaded with
great packs; soon after you will see the wagons, and in the rear, our company.
We all cover quite a space.The pack mules always string one after the other just
like Indians.

There
are several gentlemen in the company who are going over the mountains for
pleasure. Capt. Steward (Mr. Lee speaks of him in his journal - he went over
when he did and returned) he is an Englishman and Mr. Celam. We had a few of
them to tea with us last Monday evening, Capt. Fitzpatrick, Stewart, Major
Harris and Celam.

I
wish I could describe to you how we live so that you can realize it. Our manner
of living is far preferable to any in the States. I never was so contented and
happy before neither have I enjoyed such health for years. In the morning as
soon as the day breaks the first that we hear is the words, "Arise! Arise!" -
then the mules set up such a noise as you never heard, which puts the whole camp
in motion. We encamp in a large ring, baggage and men, tents and wagons on the
outside, and all the animals except the cows, which are fastened to pickets,
within the circle. This arrangement is to accommodate the guard, who stand
regularly every night and day, also when we are in motion, to protect our
animals from the approach of Indians, who would steal them. As I said, the
mules' noise brings every man on his feet to loose them and turn them out to
feed.

Now,
H. and E., you must think it very hard to have to get up so early after sleeping
on the soft ground, when you find it hard work to open your eyes at seven
o'clock. Just think of me - every morning at the word, "Arise!" we all spring.
While the horses are feeding we get breakfast in a hurry and eat it. By this
time the words, "Catch up! Catch up," ring through the camp for moving. We are
ready to start usually at six, travel till eleven, encamp, rest and feed, and
start again about two; travel until six, or before, if we come to a good tavern,
then encamp for the night.

Since
we have been in the prairie we have done all our cooking. When we left Liberty
we expected to take bread to last us part of the way, but could not get enough
to carry us any distance. We found it awkward work to bake out of doors at
first, but we have become so accustomed to it now we do it very
easily.

Tell
mother I am a very good housekeeper on the prairie. I wish she could just take a
peep at us while we are sitting at our meals. Our table is the ground, our
table-cloth is an India-rubber cloth used when it rains as a cloak; our dishes
are made of tin-basins for teacups, iron spoons and plates, each of us, and
several pans for milk and to put our meat in when we wish to set it on the
table. Each one carries his own knife in his scabbard, and it is always ready to
use. When the table things are spread, after making our own forks or sticks and
helping ourselves to chairs, we gather around the table. Husband always provides
my seat, and in a way that you would laugh to see. It is the fashion of all this
country to imitate the Turks. Messrs. Dunbar and Allis have supped with us, and
they do the same. We take a blanket and lay down by the table, and those whose
joints will let them follow the fashion; others take out some of the baggage (I
suppose you know that there is no stones in this country' not a stone have I
seen of any size on the prairie). For my part I fix myself as gracefully as I
can, sometimes on a blanket, sometimes on a box, just as it is convenient. Let
me assure you of this, we relish our food none the less for sitting on the
ground while eating. We have tea and a plenty of milk, which is a luxury in this
country. our milk has assisted us very much in making our bread since we have
been journeying. While the Fur Company has felt the want of food, our milk has
been of great service to us; but it was considerable work for us to supply ten
persons with bread three times a day. We are done using it now. What little
flour we have left we shall preserve for thickening our broth, which is
excellent. I never saw any thing like buffalo meat to satisfy hunger. We do not
want any thing else with it. I have eaten three meals of it and it relishes
well. Supper and breakfast we eat in our tent. We do not pitch it at noon. Have
worship immediately after supper and breakfast.

Noon.
- The face of the country today has been like that of yesterday. We are now
about 30 miles above the forks, and leaving the bluffs for the river. We have
seen wonders this forenoon. Herds of buffalo hove in sight; one, a bull, crossed
our trail and ran upon the bluffs near the rear of the camp. We took the trouble
to chase him so as to have a near view. Sister Spalding and myself got out of
the wagon and ran upon the bluff to see him. This band was quite willing to
gratify our curiosity, seeing it was the first. Several have been killed this
forenoon. The Company keep a man out all the time to hunt for the
camp.

Edward, if I write much more in
this way I do not know as you can read it without great difficulty. I could tell
you much more, but as we are all ready to move again, so farewell for the
present. I wish you were all here with us going to the dear Indians. I have
become very much attached to Richard Sak-ah-too-ah. 'T is the one you saw at our
wedding; he calls me mother; I love to teach him - to take care of him, and hear
them talk. There are five Nez Perces in the company, and when they are together
they chatter finely. Samuel Temoni, the oldest one, has just come into the camp
with the skin and some of the meat of a buffalo which he has killed himself. He
started this forenoon of his own accord. It is what they like dearly, to hunt
buffalo. So long as we have him with us we shall be supplied with
meat.

I am
now writing backwards. Monday morning. - I begun to say something here that I
could not finish. Now the man from the mountains has come who will take this to
the office. I have commenced one to sister Hull which I should like to send this
time if I could finish it. We have just met him and we have stopped our wagons
to write a little. Give my love to all. I have not told you half of what I want
to. We are all in health this morning and making rapid progress in our journey.
By the 4th of July our captain intends to be at the place where Mr. Parker and
husband parted last fall. We are a month earlier passing here than they were
last spring. Husband has begun a letter to pa and ma, and since he has cut his
finger so it troubles him to write to the rest. As this is done in a hurry I
don't know if you can read it. Tell mother that if I had looked the world over I
could not have found one more careful and better qualified to transport a female
such a distance. Husband says, "stop."

Farewell to all.

NARCISSA PRENTISS

ON
PLATTE RIVER, 30 MILES ABOVE THE FORKS. June 4th, 1836. Dear Father and Mother
Prentiss: You will be anxious to hear from us at this distance and learn our
situation and progress. We have been greatly blest thus far on our journey. We
have had various trials, it is true, but they have mostly been overruled for our
good. Narcissa's health is much improved from what it was when she left N.Y. We
failed of going from Liberty to Bellevue as was expected in the Fur Co's.
steamboat. We were waiting at Liberty for the boat for some time and though we
would go on with our cattle, horses and wagons, and let Mr. Allis from the
Pawnee agency stay with the ladies and go on the boat. Accordingly Messrs.
Spalding and Gray went on and I was to join them at Cantonment Leavenworth. In
the meantime Mrs. Saterlee died and boat passed but refused to stop for us. Mr.
Spalding wrote me he would wait eight miles the other side of garrison until I
came up, so that when the boat passed I did not send an express as I otherwise
should have done, but proceeded to hire a team to take us on; but when we
arrived at the garrison he had crossed the river and gone directly on for
Bellevue and had been gone for three days, which caused me to have to send an
express for him, which did not overtake him until they were within forty miles
of the Platte. I followed with the women and baggage, with a hired team. We met
out teams the fourth day on their return. From that on we were greatly favored
with fair weather, never having to encounter any rainstorm or serious shower. We
have not been once wet even to this time, and we are now beyond where the rains
fall much in summer.

We
had several days delay from my going ahead to see Maj. Dougherty's brother, who
was very sick and sent for me when he learned I was coming. It was Sabbath and
we were within 18 miles of the Otto Agency, which is on the Platte, where Mr.
Dougherty lives. On Monday I sent the man, who came for me, after the party, and
I went to see Fitzpatrick, the leader of the Fur caravan, with whom we were to
travel. I found him encamped ready for a start on Thursday morning, about
twenty-five miles from the Otto Agency. When I returned our party had not
arrived and did not come until Wednesday, the man who was to pilot them having
lost his way.

We
had great difficulty in crossing the Platte which, together with repairs to our
wagons, detained us until Saturday noon, May 21st, and he (Fitzpatrick) had been
gone from Sunday. We felt much doubt about overtaking them, but we pushed on,
and after ferrying the Horn in a skin boat and making a very difficult ford of
the Loup, we overtook the Company at a few miles below the Pawnee villages on
Wednesday evening. We then felt that we had been signally blessed, thanked God
and took courage. We felt it had been of great service to us that we had been
disappointed in these several particulars, particularly as it tested the ability
of our ladies to journey in this way. We have since made good progress every
day, and are now every way well situated, having plenty of good buffalo meat and
the cordial co-operation of the company with whom we are journeying.

June
6th. - We have just met the men by whom we can send letters and have to close
without farther particulars or ceremony.

With
Christian regards to your family, farewell.

Yours
affectionately,

MARCUS WHITMAN

PLATTE RIVER, SOUTH SIDE, SIX DAYS
ABOVE THE FORT LARAMIE FORK, NEAR THE FOOT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, June 27,
1836. Dear Brother and Sister Whitman: We were in perplexity when we left
Liberty, but it has been overruled for good. I wrote Mother Loomis from the Otoe
Agency. We were in still greater perplexity there, while crossing our baggage.
Husband became so completely exhausted with swimming the river on Thursday, May
9th, that it was with difficulty he made the shore the last time. Mr. Spalding
was sick, our two hired men were good for nothing; we could not obtain much
assistance from the Otoes, for they were away from the village; we had but one
canoe, made of skins, and that partly eaten by the dogs the night before. We got
everything over by Friday night. We did not get ready to start until Saturday
afternoon. By this time the [American Fur] company had four and a half days the
advance of us. It seemed scarcely possible for us to overtake them, we having
two more difficult streams to pass, before they would pass the Pawnee villages.
Behind there we dare not venture more than one day. We were at a stand; but with
the advice of brethren Merrill and Dunbar-missionaries among the Pawnees-after a
concert of prayer on the subject, we decided to start and go as far as it would
be prudent for us. Brother Dunbar kindly consented to become our pilot, until we
could get another. He started with us and came as far as the Elkhorn river, then
the man Major Dougherty sent for, for us, came up, and Mr. Dunbar returned. We
had passed the river on Monday morning and taken down the rope, when our pilot
and his Indian came up. It was with difficulty we crossed him and returned Mr.
Dunbar. While on the opposite shore, just ready to leave us, he called to us to
receive his parting advice, with a word of caution which will never be
forgotten. Our visit with him and Brother Merrill's family was indeed refreshing
to our thirsty spirits-kindred spirits rejoicing in the self denials and labors
of missionary life.

The
next day, in the morning, we met a large party of Pawnees going to the fort to
receive their annuities. They seemed to be very much surprised and pleased to
see white females; many of them had never seen any before. They are a noble
Indian - large, athletic forms, dignified countenances, bespeaking an immortal
existence within. When we had said what we wished to them, we hurried on, and
arrived at the Elkhorn in time to cross all our effects.

Here
I must tell you how much good Richard, John and Samuel - Pacific coast Indian
boys whom Dr. Whitman had taken to New York with him the year before - did us.
They do the most of driving the cattle and loose horses. Occasionally husband
and myself would ride with them as company and encouragement. They came up to
the river before us, and seeing a skin canoe on the opposite side, they stripped
themselves, wound their shirts around their heads, and swam over and back again
with the canoe by the time we came up. We stretched a rope across the river and
pulled the goods over in the canoe without much difficulty.

Monday and Tuesday we made hard
drives - Tuesday especially. We attempted to reach the Loup Fork that night, and
a part of us succeeded. Those in the wagons drove there by 11 o'clock, but it
was too much for the cattle. There was not water or feed short of this. We rode
with Richard and John until 9 o'clock, and were all very much fatigued. Richard
proposed to us to go on and he and John would stay on the prairie with the
cattle, and drive them in in the morning. We did not like to leave them, and so
we concluded to stay. Husband had a cup tied to his saddle, in which he milked
what we wanted to drink; this was our supper. Our saddle blankets, with our
India rubber cloaks, were our beds. Having offered up our thanksgiving for the
blessings of the day and seeking protection for the night, we committed
ourselves to rest. We awoke in the morning much refreshed and rode into camp
before breakfast - five miles. The Fur Company was on the opposite side of the
river, which we forded, and, without unloading our wagon much, were ready to
move again about noon. We wished to be with the company when they passed the
Pawnee village. This obliged us to make a day's drive to the camp in half a day,
which was too bad for our horses. We did not reach them until 1 o'clock at
night.

The
next day we passed all their villages. We, especially, were visited by them both
at noon and at night; we ladies were such a curiosity to them. They would come
and stand around our tent, peep in, and grin in their astonishment to see such
looking objects.

Since
we came up with the camp, I rode in the wagons most of the way to the Black
Hills. It is astonishing how well we get along with our wagons where there are
no roads. I think I may say it is easier traveling here than on any turnpike in
the States.

On
the way to the buffalo country we had to bake bread for ten persons. It was
difficult at first, as we did not understand working out-doors; but we became
accustomed to it, so that it became quite easy. June found us ready to receive
our first taste of buffalo. Since that time I have had but little to do with
cooking. Not one in our number relishes buffalo meat as well as my husband and
I. He has a different way for cooking every piece of meat. I believe Mother
Loomis would give up to him if she were here. We have had no bread since. We
have meat and tea in the morn, and tea and meat at noon. All our variety
consists of the different ways of cooking. I relish it well and it agrees with
me. My health is excellent. So long as I have buffalo meat I do not wish
anything else. Sister Spaulding is affected by it considerably - has been quite
sick.

We
feel that the Lord has blessed us beyond our most sanguine expectations. We wish
our friends at home to unite with us in thanksgiving and praise for His great
mercies to us. We are a month earlier this year than husband was last, and the
company wish to be at Rendezvous by the 4th of July. We have just crossed the
river and shall leave here tomorrow morning.

Now,
Sister Julia, between you and me, I just want to tell you how much trouble I
have had with Marcus, two or three weeks past. He was under the impression that
we had too much baggage, and could not think of anything so easy to be dispensed
with as his own wearing apparel - those shirts the ladies made him just before
he left home, his black suit and overcoat - these were the condemned articles.
Sell them he must, as soon as he gets to the fort. But first I would not believe
him in earnest. All the reasons I could bring were of no avail - he still said
he must get rid of them. I told him to sell all of mine, too; I could do without
them better than he could. Indeed, I did not wish to dress unless he could. I
finally said that I would write and get Sister Julia to plead for me, for I knew
you would not like to have him sell them, better than I should. This was enough;
he knew it would not do to act contrary to her wishes, and said no more about
it.

July
16th. - When I wrote this letter I expected to send it immediately, but we did
not meet the party expected, and have had no opportunity since. We are now at
the Rocky Mountains, at the encampment of Messrs. McLeod and McKay, expecting to
leave on Monday morning for Walla Walla. It seems a special favor that that
company has come to Rendezvous this season; for otherwise we would have had to
have gone with the Indians a difficult route, and so slow that we should have
been late at Walla Walla, and not have had the time we wanted to make
preparations for winter. Husband has written the particulars of our arrival,
meeting the Indians, etc., to Brother Henry.

One
particular I will mention, which he did not. As soon as I alighted from my
horse, I was met by a company of matrons, native women one after another shaking
hands and saluting me with a most hearty kiss. This was unexpected and affected
me very much. They gave Sister Spalding the same salutation. After we had been
seated awhile in the midst of the gazing throng, one of the chiefs, whom we had
seen before, came with his wife and very politely introduced her to us. They say
they all like us very much, and thank God that they have seen us, and that we
have come to live with them.

It
was truly pleasing to see the meeting of Richard and John with their friends.
Richard was affected to tears. His father is not here, but several of his tribe
and brethren are. When they met each took off his hat and shook hands, as
respectfully as in civilized life. Richard does not give up the idea of again
seeing Rushville.

Your
affection sister,

NARCISSA.

July
18th. Under the protection of Mr. McLeod and his company we left the Rendezvous
and came ten miles in a southwesterly direction. The Flatheads and some of the
Snake Indians accompanied us a short distance. We make but one camp a
day.

One
the 22nd we had a tedious ride, as we traveled till half-past four P.M. I
thought of mother's bread, as a child would, but did not find it on the table, I
should relish it extremely well; have been living on buffalo meat until I am
cloyed with it.

Have
been in a peaceful state of mind all day. Had a freedom in prayer for my beloved
parents; blessed privilege that such a sinner as I may have access to a mercy
seat, through such a Saviour as Jesus Christ. It is good to feel that he is all
I want, and all my righteousness; and if I had ten thousand lives I would give
them all for him. I long to be more like him - to possess more of his meek
spirit.

25th.
- Came fifteen miles to-day; encamped on Smith's creek, a small branch of Bear
creek. The ride has been very mountainous - paths winding on the sides of steep
mountains. In some places the path is so narrow as scarcely to afford room for
the animal to place his foot. One after another we pass along with cautious
step. Passed a creek on which was a fine bunch of gooseberries, nearly
ripe.

Husband has had a tedious time with
the wagon to-day. It got stuck in the creek this morning when crossing, and he
was obliged to wade considerably in getting it out. After that, in going between
the mountains, on the side of one, so steep that it was difficult for horses
pass, the wagon was upset twice; did not wonder at this at all; it was a greater
wonder that it was not turning somersaults continually. It is not very grateful
to my feelings to see him wearing out with such excessive fatigue, as I am
obliged to. He is not as fleshy as he was last winter. All the most difficult
part of the way he has walked, in laborious attempts to take the wagon. Ma knows
what my feelings are.

26th.
- Did not move camp today. Mr. McKay has been preparing to send out trappers
from this place. Husband has been sick to-day, and so lame with the rheumatism
as to be scarcely able to move. It is a great privilege that we can lie still
to-day on his account, for he needs rest.

27th.
- had quite a level route to-day - came down Bear river. Mr. McKay sent off
about thirty of his men as trappers to-day. Several lodges of Indians also left
us to go in another direction, and we expect more to leave us to-morrow. They
wish to go a different route from Mr. McLeod, and desire us to go with them; but
it would be more difficult and lengthy than Mr. McLeod's. We are still in a
dangerous country; but our company is large enough for safety. Our cattle endure
the journey remarkably well. They supply us with sufficient milk for our tea and
coffee, which is indeed a luxury. We are obliged to shoe some of them because of
sore feet. Have seen no buffalo since we left Rendezvous. Have had no game of
any kind except a few messes of antelope, which an Indian gave us. We have
plenty of dried buffalo meat, which we have purchased from the Indians - and dry
it is for me. It appears so filthy! I can scarcely eat it; but it keeps us
alive, and we ought to be thankful for it. We have had a few meals of fresh
fish, also, which we relished well, and have the prospect of obtaining plenty in
one or two weeks more. Have found no berries; neither have I found any of Ma's
bread (Girls, do not waste the bread; if you knew how well I should relish even
the dryest morsel, you would save every piece carefully.) Do not think I regret
coming. No, far from it; I would not go back for a world. I am contented and
happy, notwithstanding I sometimes get very hungry and weary. Have six week's
steady journey before us. Feel sometimes as if it were a long time to be
traveling. Long for rest, but must not murmur.

Feel
to pity the poor Indian women, who are continually traveling in this manner
during their lives, and know no other comfort. They do all the work and are the
complete slaves of their husbands. I am making some little progress in their
language; long to be able to converse with them about the Saviour.

28th.
- Very mountainous all the way to-day; came over another ridge; rode from 8 A.M.
to 2 P.M. We thought yesterday the Indians were all going to leave us, except
two or three; but not one has. They fear to, on account of the Blackfeet tribe,
who would destroy them all, if they could. One of the axle-trees of the wagon
broke to-day; was a little rejoiced, for we were in hopes they would leave it,
and have no more trouble with it. Our rejoicing was in vain for they are making
a cart of the back wheels, this afternoon, and lashing the fore wheels to
it-intending to take it through in some shape or other. They are so resolute and
untiring in their efforts they will probably succeed.

Had
some fresh fish for breakfast and some antelope for supper, sent us by Mr.
McLeod and other friends in camp. Thus the Lord provides, and smoothes all our
ways for us, giving us strength.

July
29th. - Mr. Gray was quite sick this morning and inclined to fall behind.
Husband and I rode with him about two hours and a half, soon after which he gave
out entirely. I was sent on, and soon after husband left him to come and get the
cart; but I overtook an Indian, who went back and soon met husband, and both
returned to Mr. Gray. The Indian helped him on his horse, got on behind him,
supported him in his arms and in this manner slowly came into camp. This was
welcome relief, and all rejoiced to see them come in; for some of us had been
riding seven hours, others eight, without any nourishment.

[The
next sheet of the journal is missing, which contains the account of their
arrival at Fort Hall, where, she says,] We were hospitably entertained by
Captain Thing, who keeps the fort. It was built by Captain Wyeth, a gentleman
from Boston, whom we saw at Rendezvous on his way east. Our dinner consisted of
dry buffalo meat,turnips and fried bread, which was a luxury. Mountain bread is
simply coarse flour and water mixed and roasted or fried in buffalo grease. To
one who has had nothing but meat for a long time, this relishes well. For tea we
had the same, with the addition of some stewed service berries.

The
buildings of the fort are made of hewed logs, with roofs covered with mud brick
chimneys and fireplaces also being built of the same; no windows, except a
square hole in the roof, and in the bastion a few port holes large enough for
guns only. The buildings were all enclosed in a strong log wall. This affords
them a place of safety when attacked by hostile Indians, as they frequently are,
the fort being in the Blackfeet country.

Since
dinner we visited the garden and corn fields. The turnips in the garden appeared
thrifty - the tops very large and tall, but the roots small. The peas looked
small; but most of them had been gathered by the mice. Saw a few onions, that
were going to seed, which looked quite natural. This was all the garden
contained. He told us his own did extremely well until the 8th of June, when the
frost of one night completely prostrated it. It has since came up again, but
does not look as well as it did before. This is their first attempt at
cultivation.

The
buildings at Fort William, on Laramie Fork of the Platte, are made the same, but
are larger and more finished than here. Here we have stools to sit on - there we
had very comfortable chairs, bottomed with buffalo skin. Thus you see we have a
house of entertainment almost or quite as often as Christian of the Pilgrim's
Progress did. We expect one more before we get to Walla Walla; that is Snake
Fort [Boise], belonging to Mr. McKay, who is journeying with us.

From
this on our company will be small. The Indians all leave us to-day except one or
two who go with us to assist in driving the cattle - Kentuck, who went with Mr.
Parker last year, and the chief, Rottenbelly. The whole tribe are exceedingly
anxious to have us go with them. They use every argument they can invent to
prevail on us to do so - and not only argument but strategy. We all think it not
best; we are very much fatigued, and wish to get through as soon as possible. To
go with them would take us two months or more, when now we expect to go to Walla
Walla in twenty-five days. When we get there rest will be sweet to us; so will
it be to the Christian when he gets to Heaven. Will father and mother get there
before I do? If so, then they will be ready to greet me on the threshold. Here
we have raised our Ebenezer saying, "Hitherto the Lord hath helped us." Now we
leave it and pass on. Our animals are nearly ready. It is now half-past two and
we expect to go but a short distance and encamp.

Aug.
5th. Morn; came all of ten miles last evening, and did not arrive here till
after dark. Mr. McLeod and his company started earlier than we did, intending to
come but a little way. We could not get ready to come with him, and the man who
piloted us led us wrong - much out of the way. Those on whom we depended to
drive cattle disappointed us. Husband and myself fell in behind them to assist
John Alts, who was alone with them. This made us later into camp than the rest
of our company. We came through several swamps, and all the last part of the way
we were so swarmed with mosquitoes as to be scarcely able to see - especially
while crossing the Port Neuf, which we did, just before coming into camp. It is
the widest river I have forded on horseback. It seemed the cows would run mad
for the mosquitoes; we could scarcely get them along. Mr. McLeod met us and
invited us to tea, which was a great favor. Thus blessings gather thick around
us. We have been in the mountains so long we find the scenery of this valley
very grateful to the eye - a large stream on my right and one on my left,
skirted with timber. At Fort Hall was our first sight of Snake river. We shall
follow the south side of it for many days. We have passed many places where the
soil is good, and would be fertile if there were frequent rains; but usually the
country is barren, and would be a sandy desert were it not for the sage
brush.

Eve.
We passed the American Falls on Snake river just after dinner. The roar of the
water is heard at a considerable distance. We stopped during the greatest heat
for rest and dinner. Now that the Indians are no longer with us we shall expect
to make two camps. I expect this to be a great mercy to us weak females, for it
was more than we could well endure to travel during the heat of the day without
refreshment.

Aug.
6th. - Route very bad and difficult to-day. We crossed a small stream full of
falls. The only pass where we could cross was just on the edge of rocks above
one of the falls. While the pack animals were crossing, both ours and the
company's, there was such a rush as to crowd two of our horses over the falls,
both packed with dried meat. It was with great difficulty they were got out, one
of them having been nearly an hour much to his injury. We have a little rice to
eat with our dry meat, given us by Mr. McLeod, which makes it relish quite
well.

Aug.
7th. - Sabbath; came fifteen miles and camped at a fine place, with plenty of
good grass for our weary animals. Thus are blessings so mingled that it seems as
if there was nothing else but mercy and blessings all the way. Was there ever a
journey like this performed where the sustaining hand of God has been so
manifest every morning. Surely the children of Israel could not have been more
sensible of the pillar of fire by night than we have been of that hand that has
led us thus safely on. God had heard prayer in our behalf, and even now while I
am writing on this holy day is the sweet incense of prayer ascending before the
throne of Heavenly grace. Nor are we forgotten by our beloved churches, at home
in the prayers of the Sanctuary, we are too sensible of its blessed effects to
believe otherwise; and oh! how comforting is this thought to the heart of the
missionary. We love to think and talk of home with such feelings as these. It
warms our hearts and strengthens and encourages us in the work of our beloved
Master, and make our journeyings easy.

Aug.
8th, Monday. - Snake river. We have an excellent camp ground to-night; plenty of
feed for our horses and cattle. We think it remarkable that our cattle should
endure the journey as well as they do. We have two suckling calves that appear
to be in very good spirits; they suffer some from sore feet - otherwise they
have come on well and will go through. Have come eighteen miles to-day and have
taken it so deliberately that it has been easy for us. The hunters came in last
night well loaded; they had been in the mountains two days after game and killed
three elk and two antelope. This is the first elk meat we have had, and it is
the last opportunity we expect to have of taking any more game. We are told that
many have traveled the whole distance from Rendezvous to Walla Walla without any
fresh meat. We think our will last until we reach the salmon fishing at Snake
Falls. Thus we are well provided for contrary to our expectations. Mr. McLeod
has excellent hunters; this is the reason why we live so well. There is but
little game and that is found at a great distance from the route.

11th.
- Tuesday and Wednesday have been tedious days, both for man and beast - lengthy
marches without water; rocky and sandy. Had a present to-night of a fresh
salmon; also a plate of fried cakes from Mr. McLeod. (Girls, if you wish to know
how they taste you can have pleasure by taking a little flour and water, make
some dough, and roll it thin, cut it into square blocks, then take some beef fat
and fry them. You need not put either salt or pearlash in your dough.) Believe
me, I relish them as well as I ever did any made at home.

12th.
- Friday; raised camp this morning at sunrise and came two hours ride to the
salmon fishery. Found a few lodges of Diggers, of the Snake tribe, so called
because they live on roots during winter, who had just commenced fishing.
Obtained some and boiled it for our breakfast. Find it good eating; had we been
a few days earlier we should not have been able to obtain any fish, for they had
but just come up. They never go higher than these falls and come here every
season.

Friday eve. - Dear Harriet, the
little trunk you gave me has come with me so far, and now I must leave it here
alone. Poor little trunk, I am sorry to leave thee; thou must abide here alone,
and no more by thy presence remind me of my dear Harriet. Twenty miles below the
falls on Snake river this shall be thy place of rest. Farewell, little trunk, I
thank thee for thy faithful services, and that I have been cheered by thy
presence so long. Thus we scatter as we go along. The hills are so steep and
rocky that husband thought it best to lighten the wagon as much as possible and
take nothing but the wheels, leaving the box with my trunk. I regret leaving
anything that came from home, especially that trunk, but it is best. It would
have been better for me not to have attempted to bring any baggage whatever,
only what was necessary to use on the way. It costs so much labor, besides the
expense of animals. If I were to make the journey again I would make quite
different preparations. To pack and unpack so many times, and cross so many
streams where the packs frequently get wet, requires no small amount of labor,
besides the injury of the articles. Our books, what few we have, have been wet
several times. In going from Elmira to Williamsport this trunk fell into the
creek and wet all my books, and Richard's, too, several times. The sleigh box
came off and all of us came near a wetting likewise. The custom of the country
is to possess nothing, and then you will lose nothing while traveling. Farewell
for the present.

13th.
- Saturday; Dear Harriet, Mr. McKay has asked the privilege of taking the little
trunk along, so that my soliloquy about it last night was for naught. However,
it will do me no good, it may him.

We
have come fifteen miles and have had the worst route in all the journey for the
cart. We might have had a better one but for being misled by some of the company
who started out before the leaders. It was two o'clock before we came into
camp.

The
river is divided by two islands into three branches, and is fordable. The packs
are placed upon the tops of the highest horses and in this way we crossed
without wetting. Two of the tallest horses were selected to carry Mrs. Spalding
and myself over. Mr. McLeod gave me his and rode mine. The last branch we rode
as much as half a mile in crossing and against the current, too, which made it
hard for the horses, the water being up to their sides. Husband had considerable
difficulty in crossing the cart. Both cart and mules were turned upside down in
the river and entangled in the harness. The mules would have been drowned but
for a desperate struggle to get them ashore. Then after putting two of the
strongest horses before the cart, and two men swimming behind to steady it, they
succeeded in getting it across. I once thought that crossing streams would be
the most dreaded part of the journey. I can now cross the most difficult stream
without the least fear. There is one manner of crossing which husband has tried
but I have not, neither do I wish to. Take an elk skin and stretch it over you,
spreading yourself out as much as possible, then let the Indian women carefully
put you on the water and with a cord in the mouth they will swim and draw you
over. Edward, how do you think you would like to travel in this way?

15th.
- Yesterday Mr. McLeod with most of his men left us, wishing to hasten his
arrival at Snake Fort, leaving us a pilot and his weakest animals to come in
with us at our leisure. This is a relief to us, as it is difficult to bring our
cattle up to the speed they wish to travel. We passed the hot springs just
before noon, which was quite a curiosity. Boiled a bit of dry salmon in one of
them in five minutes.

16th.
- This eve found plenty of berries called hawthorn on the stream where we have
encamped. They are large as a cherry and taste much like a mealy sweet apple.
Our route on this side of Snake river is less hilly and difficult than on the
south side, and said to be two days shorter.

19th.
- Arrived at Snake Fort, Boise, about noon. It is situated on Bigwood river, so
called because the timber is larger than any to be seen this side of the
mountains. It consists chiefly of cotton wood and is small compared with timber
in the states. Snake Fort is owned and built by Mr. Thomas McKay, one of our
company, whom we expect to leave here. He, with Mr. McLeod, gave us a hearty
welcome; dined with them. Mr. McLeod was ready to leave on the morrow, but said
he would stay a day longer to give us the opportunity of doing some necessary
work, for which we were thankful.

20th.
- Saturday. Last night I put my clothes in water and this morning finished
washing before breakfast. This is the third time I have washed since I left
home-once at Fort Williams and once at Rendezvous. Mr. McLeod called this
evening to see if we were ready to leave. He observed we had been so engaged in
labor as to have no time for rest, and proposed for ourselves to remain over
Sabbath. This I can assure you was a favor for which we can never be too
thankful, for our souls need the rest of the Sabbath as well as our
bodies.

21st.
- Sabbath. Rich with heavenly blessings has the day of rest been to my soul. Mr.
Spalding was invited to preach in the Fort at 11 o'clock. The theme was the
character of the blessed Savior. All listened with good attention.

22d.
- Left the Fort yesterday; came a short distance to the crossing of Snake river,
crossed and encamped for the night. The river had three branches, divided by
islands, as it was when we crossed before. The first and second places were very
deep, but we had no difficulty in crossing on horseback. The third was deeper
still; we dare not venture horseback. This being a fishing post of the Indians,
we easily found a canoe, made of rushes and willows, on which we placed
ourselves and our saddles (Sister Spalding and myself), when two Indians on
horseback, each with a rope attached to the canoe, towed us over. (O! if father
and mother and the girls could have seen us in our snug little canoe, floating
on the water.) We were favorites of the company. No one else was privileged with
a ride on it. I wish I could give you a correct idea of this little bark. It is
simply bunches of rushes tied together, and attached to a frame made of a few
sticks of small willows. It was just large enough to hold us and our saddles.
Our baggage was transported on the top of our tallest horses, without
wetting.

As
for the wagon, it is left at the Fort, and I have nothing to say about crossing
it at this time. Five of our cattle were left there also, to be exchanged for
others at Walla Walla. Perhaps you will wonder why we have left the wagon,
having taken it so nearly through. Our animals were failing, and the route in
crossing the Blue Mountains is said to be impassable for it. We have the
prospect of obtaining one in exchange at Vancouver. If we do not we shall send
for it, when we have been to so much labor in getting it thus far. It is a
useful article in the country.

Now,
for Edward's amusement, and that he may know how to do when he comes over the
Rocky Mountains, I will tell how we got the cattle over the rivers. Our two
Indian boys, Richard and John, have had the chief management of driving them all
the way, and are to be commended for the patience they have manifested. They
have had some one or two to help usually, but none so steady drivers as
themselves. When a stream is to be crossed, where it is necessary for the
animals to swim, Richard comes back after the cows. Having obtained consent he
rides over, accompanied by his fellow drivers, all stripped to the shirt. Then
they return with their horses, if the stream is wide and difficult. If not they
leave their horses, tie their shifts over their heads, swim back, collect the
cows and drive them through, all swimming after them. If the stream is very
wide, and they return with their horses, they drive them swimming on the horses
behind them. This saves them from the too great fatigue of swimming for the
river twice. They love to swim, as they love to eat, and by doing so have saved
me many an anxious feeling, for the relief it has given my husband many times.
In this case all the horses and mules were driven across likewise. Usually the
best Indian swimmer was selected and mounted the horse that was good for leading
to go before the animals as a guide, while many others swim after them to drive
them over. When once under way, such a snorting and halloaing you never heard.
At the same time you can see nothing save so many heads floating upon the water.
Soon they gain the opposite shore, triumphantly ascend its banks, shake
themselves, and retire to their accustomed employment.

26th.
- Friday. On account of our worn out cattle and horses, it was thought best to
separate from Mr. McLeod's party, at least some of us, and travel more
deliberately. Two mules and a horse have almost entirely given out. It is
necessary that some of our party go to Vancouver immediately for supplies and
see Mr. Parker before he leaves. It was thought best for my husband and Mr. Gray
to go. As Mr. McLeod intended to make but a day's stop at Walla Walla, we came
on with him, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, the hired men, with most of our
baggage, and the Nez Perce chief, Rottenbelly, to pilot them in. We parted from
them about 3 o'clock and came as far as the Lone Tree. The place called Lone
Tree is a beautiful valley in the region of Powder river, in the center of which
is a solitary tree, quite large, but the side of which travellers usually stop
and refresh themselves. We left our tent for Mrs. Spalding, as we expect to be
out only a few nights, while she might be out many. Mr. McLeod kindly offered
his for my use and when I arrived in camp found it pitched and in readiness for
me. This was a great favor as the wind blew quite hard and the prospect was for
a cool night.

August 27th. - Came in sight of the
hill that leads to the Grande Ronde. This morning Mr. McLeod remained behind in
pursuit of game, and did not come into camp until we had made a long nooning,
although we had begun to feel a little concerned about him, yet about 3 o'clock
he came into camp loaded with wild ducks, having taken twenty-two. Now, mother,
he had just, as he always did during the whole journey, sent over nine of them.
Here also, Richard caught fresh salmon, which made us another good meal, and if
we had been out of provisions we might have made dinner upon the fresh-water
clams, for the river was full of them.

Girls, how do you think we manage
to rest ourselves every noon, having no house to shelter us from the scorching
heat, or sofa on which to recline? Perhaps you think we always encamp in the
shade of some thick wood. Such a sight I have not seen, lo, these many weeks. If
we can find a few small willows or a single lone tree, we think ourselves amply
provided for. But often our camping places are in some open plain and frequently
a sand plain, but even here is rest and comfort. My husband, who is one of the
best the world ever knew, is always ready to provide a comfortable shade, with
one of our saddle-blankets spread upon some willows or sticks placed in the
ground. Our saddles, fishamores and the other blankets placed upon the ground
constitute our sofa where we recline and rest until dinner is ready. How do you
think you would like this? Would you not think a seat by mother, in some cool
room preferable? Sometimes my wicked heart has been disposed to murmur, thinking
I should have no rest from the heat when we stopped, but I have always been
reproved for it by the comfort and rest received. Under the circumstances I have
never wished to go back. Such a thought never finds a place in my heart. "The
Lord is better to us than our fears." I always find it so.

[August] 28th. This morning
lingered with husband on the top of the hill that overlooks the Grande Ronde,
for berries until we were some distance behind camp. We have now no distressing
apprehensions the moment we are out of sight of the camp, for we have entirely
passed the dangerous country. I always enjoy riding alone with him, especially
when we talk about home friends. It is then the tedious hours are sweetly
decoyed away.

We
descend a very steep hill in coming into Grande Ronde, at the foot of which is a
beautiful cluster of pitch and spruce pine trees, but no white pine like that I
have been accustomed to see at home. Grande Ronde is indeed a beautiful place.
It is a circular plain, surrounded by lofty mountains, and has a beautiful
stream coursing through it, skirted with quite large timber. The scenery while
passing through it is quite delightful in some places and the soil rich; in
other places we find the white sand and sedge, as usual, so common to this
country. We nooned upon Grande Ronde river.

The
camas grows here in abundance, and it is the principal resort of the Cayuses and
many other tribes, to obtain it, as they are very fond of it. It resembles an
onion in shape and color, when cooked is very sweet and tastes like a fig. Their
manner of cooking them is very curious: They dig a hole in the ground, throw in
a heap of stones, heat them to a red heat, cover them with green grass, upon
which they put the camas, and cover the whole with earth. When taken out it is
black. This is the chief food of many tribes during winter.

After
dinner we left the plain and ascended the Blue Mountains. Here a new and
pleasing scene presented itself-mountains covered with timber, through which we
rode all the afternoon; a very agreeable change. The scenery reminded me of the
hills in my native country of Streuben.

29th.
- Had a combination of the same scenery as yesterday afternoon. Rode over many
logs and obstructions that we had not found since we left the states. Here I
frequently met old acquaintances in the trees and flowers, and was not a little
delighted; indeed, I do not know as I was ever so much affected with any scenery
in my life. The singing of birds, the echo of voices of my fellow travelers, as
they were scattered through the woods, all had a strong resemblance to bygone
days. But this scenery was of short duration-only one day.

Before noon we began to descend one
of the most terrible mountains for steepness and length I have yet seen. It was
like winding stairs in its descent, and in some places almost perpendicular. The
horses appeared to dread the hill as much as we did. They would turn and wind
around in a zigzag manner all the way down. The men usually walked, but I could
not get permission to, neither did I desire it much.

We
had no sooner gained the foot of this mountain than another more steep and
dreadful was before us. After dinner and rest we descended it. Mount Pleasant,
in Prattsburg, would not compare with these Mount Terribles. Our ride this
afternoon exceeded anything we have had yet, and what rendered it the more
aggravating was the fact that the path all the way was very stony, resembling a
newly macadamized road. Our horses' feet were very tender, all unshod, so that
we could not make the progress we wished. The mountain in many places was
covered with this black broken basalt. We were very late in making camp
to-night. After ascending the mountain we kept upon the main divide until
sunset, looking in vain for water and a camping place. While upon this elevation
we had a view of the Valley of the Columbia River. It was beautiful. Just as we
gained the highest elevation and began to descend the sun was dipping his disk
behind the western horizon. Beyond the valley we could see two distinct
mountains - Mount Hood and Mount St. Helens. These lofty peaks were of a conical
form, separated from each other by a considerable distance. Behind the former
the sun was hiding part of his rays, which gave us a more distinct view of this
gigantic cone. The beauty of this extensive valley contrasted well with the
rolling mountains behind us, and at this hour of twilight was enchanting and
quite diverted my mind from the fatigue under which I was laboring. We had yet
to descend a hill as long, but not as steep or as stony as the other. By this
time our horses were in haste to be in camp, as well as ourselves, and mine made
such lengthy strides in descending that it shook my sides surprisingly. It was
dark when we got into camp, but the tent was ready for me, and tea also, for Mr.
McLeod invited us to sup with him.

Dearest mother, let me tell you how
I am sustained of the Lord in all this journey. For two or three days past I
have felt weak, restless and scarcely able to sit on my horse - yesterday in
particular. But see how I have been diverted by the scenery, and carried out of
myself in conversation about home and friends. Mother will recollect what my
feelings were and had been for a year previous to our leaving home. The last
revival enjoyed, my visit to Onondaga and the scenes there - these I call my
last impressions of home, and they are of such a character that when we converse
about home these same feelings are revived and I forget that I am weary and want
rest. This morning my feelings were a little peculiar; felt remarkably strong
and well - so much so as to mention it - but could not see any reason why I
should feel any more rested than on the morning previous. Then I began to see
what a day's ride was before me, and I understood it. If I had had no better
health to-day than yesterday I should have fainted under it. Then the promise
appeared in full view: "As thy day, so shall thy strength be," and my soul
rejoiced in God, and testifies to the truth of another evidently manifest, "Lo,
I am with you always."

30th.
- In consequence of the lengthy camp yesterday, and failure of animals, two of
the company's men left their animals behind, with packs also. This occasioned
some anxiety, lest the wolves should destroy their beaver. To-day they send back
for them, and we make but a short move to find more grass. On following the
course of the stream on which we encamped last night we found cherries in
abundance, and had time to stop and gather as many as we wished. They are very
fine - equal to any we find in the States. When we arrived Mr. Gray had the
dinner waiting for us. This afternoon the men rested and made preparations to
enter Walla Walla. The men who went for the animals returned late. We all
regretted this hindrance, for Mr. McLeod intended to see Walla Walla to-day and
return again with a muskmelon for Mrs. Whitman (so he said). he will go in
tomorrow. It is the custom of the country to send heralds ahead to announce the
arrival of a party and prepare for their reception.

31st.
- Came to the Walla Walla river, within eight miles of the Fort (Wallula).
Husband and I were very much exhausted with this day's lengthy ride. Most of the
way was sandy with no water for many miles. When we left Mr. Spalding husband
rode an Indian horse when he had never mounted before and found him a hard rider
in every gait except a gallop, and slow in his movements, nor could he pace as
mine did, so for the last six days we have galloped most of the way where the
ground would admit of it.

September 1st, 1836 You can better
imagine our feelings this morning than we can describe them. I could not realize
that the end of our long journey was so near. We arose as soon as it was light,
took a cup of coffee, ate of the duck we had given us last night and dressed for
Walla Walla. We started while it was yet early, for all were in haste to reach
the desired haven. If you could have seen us you would have been surprised, for
both man and beast appeared alike propelled by the same force. The whole company
galloped almost the whole way to the Fort. The fatigues of the long journey
seemed to be forgotten in the excitement of being so near the close. Soon the
Fort appeared in sight and when it was announced that we were near Mr. McLeod,
Mr. Pambrun, the gentleman of the house, and Mr. Townsend (a traveling
naturalist) sallied forth to meet us. After usual introduction and salutation we
entered the Fort and were comfortably seated in cushioned armed chairs. They
were just eating breakfast as we rode up and soon we were seated at the table
and treated to fresh salmon, potatoes, tea, bread and butter. What a variety,
thought I. You cannot imagine what an appetite these rides in the mountains give
a person. I wish some of the feeble ones in the states could have a ride in the
mountains; they would say like me, victuals, even the plainest kind, never
relished so well before.

After
breakfast we were shown the novelties of the place. While at breakfast, however,
a young rooster placed himself upon the sill of the door and crowed. Now whether
it was the sight of the first white woman, or out of compliment to the company,
I know not, but this much for him, I was pleased with his appearance. You may
think me simple for speaking of such a small circumstance. No one knows the
feelings occasioned by seeing objects once familiar after a long deprivation.
Especially when it is heightened by no expectation of meeting with them. The
door-yard was filled with hens, turkeys and pigeons. And in another place we saw
cows and goats in abundance, and I think the largest and fattest cattle and
swine I ever saw.

We
were soon shown a room which Mr. Pambrun said he had prepared for us, by making
two bedsteads or bunks, on hearing of our approach. It was the west bastion of
the Fort, full of port holes in the sides, but no windows, and filled with
fire-arms. A large cannon, always loaded, stood behind the door by one of the
holes. These things did not disturb me. I am so well pleased with the possession
of a room to shelter me from the scorching sun that I scarcely notice them.
Having arranged our things we were soon called to a feast of melons; the first,
I think, I ever saw or tasted. The muskmelon was the largest, measuring eighteen
in length, fifteen around the small end and nineteen around the large end. You
may be assured that none of us were satisfied or willing to leave the table
until we had filled our plates with chips.

At
four o'clock we were called to dine. It consisted of pork, cabbage, turnips,
tea, bread and butter; by favorite dishes, and much like the last dinner I ate
with Mother Loomis. I am thus particular in my description of eatables so that
you may be assured that we find something to eat beyond the Rocky mountains as
well as at home. We find plenty of salt, but many here prefer to do almost, and
some entirely without it, on their meats and vegetables.

Sept.
2d. - Have busied myself to-day in unpacking my trunk and arranging my things
for a visit to Vancouver. Mother will wonder at this and think me a strange
child for wishing to add three hundred miles to this journey; not from
necessity, but because my husband is going, and I may as well go as to stay here
alone. If we were obliged to go on horseback, I think I should not wish to
undertake it, but we are going in a boat and it will not take us more than six
days to go there. A very agreeable change and I think I shall enjoy it as well
as to stay here. I feel remarkably well and rested-do not need to lounge at all,
and so it is with us all. I can scarcely believe it possible of myself, but it
is true, I feel as vigorous and as well able to engage in any domestic
employment as I ever did in my life.

I
have not yet introduced you to the lady of the house. She is a native, from a
tribe east of the mountains. She appears well, does not speak English, but her
native language and French. The cooking and housework is done by men chiefly.
Mr. Pambrun is from Canada, and much of the gentlemen in his
appearance.

Sept.
3d. - Messrs. McLeod and Townsend left for Vancouver to-day, but Mr. McLeod is
so loaded as not to be able to give us a comfortable passage. Mr. Pambrun is
going by himself next week and offers us a passage with him.

About
noon Mr. and Mrs. Spalding arrived with their company, having made better
progress than was anticipated. Here we are all at Walla Walla, through the mercy
of a kind Providence, in health and all our lives preserved. What cause for
gratitude and praise to God! Surely my heart is ready to leap for joy at the
thought of being so near the long-desired work of teaching the benighted ones
the knowledge of a Savior, and having completed this hazardous journey under
such favorable circumstances. Mr. Pambrun said to us the day we arrived, that
there had never been a company previous to ours, that came into the Fort so well
fed as ours for the last days of the journey. All our friends of the East
company, who knew anything about the country, dreaded this part for us very
much. But the Lord has been with us and provided for us all the way, and blessed
be his holy name. Another cause for gratitude is the preservation of our
animals, in this difficult, dangerous and lengthy route, while many parties
previous to ours have had every animal taken from them, and been left on foot in
a dangerous land, exposed to death. Two horses have given out with fatigue and
have been left, two have been stolen or lost, but most that we have now, have
come all the way from the settlements, and appear well. Two calves only have
been lost. The remainder came on well except those we left at Snake
Fort.

Sabbath, 4th. - This has been a day
of mutual thanksgiving with us all. Assembled at the Fort at 12 o'clock for
worship, our feelings are better imagined than described. This first Sabbath in
September, a Sabbath of rest; first after completing a long journey, first in
the vicinity of our future labors. All of us here before God. It is not enough
for us alone to be thankful. Will not my beloved friends at home, the disciples
of Jesus, unite with us in gratitude and praise to God for his great mercy? It
is in answer to your prayers that we are here and are permitted to see this day
under such circumstances. Feel to dedicate myself renewedly to His service among
the heathen, and may the Lord's hand be as evidently manifest in blessing our
labors among them, as it has been in bringing us here, and that, too, in answer
to your prayers, beloved Christian friends.

5th.
- Mr. and Mrs. Spalding have concluded to go with us to Vancouver, so nothing
can be done by either of the parties about location until the Indians return
from their summer's hunt. Expect to leave tomorrow. Have had exceedingly high
winds for two days and nights past, to which the place is subject. Our room
shakes and the wind makes such a noise that we can scarcely hear each other
converse.

Sept.
7, 1836. - We set sail from Walla Walla yesterday at two o'clock p.m. Our boat
is an open one, manned with six oars, and the steersman. I enjoy it much; it is
a very pleasant change in our manner of traveling. The Columbia is a beautiful
river. Its waters are clear as crystal and smooth as a sea of glass, exceeding
in beauty the Ohio; but the scenery on each side of it is very different. There
is no timber to be seen, but there are high perpendicular banks of rocks in some
places, while rugged bluffs and plains of sand in others, are all that meet the
eye. We sailed until near sunset, when we landed, pitched our tents, supped our
tea, bread and butter, boiled ham and potatoes, committed ourselves to the care
of a kind Providence, and retired to rest.

This
morning we arose before sunrise, embarked and sailed until nine o'clock, and are
now landed for breakfast. Mr. Pambrun's cook is preparing it, while husband and
myself are seated by a little shrub, writing. We are this moment called.
Farewell.

8th.
- Came last night quite to the Chute (above The Dalles), a fall in the river not
navigable. There we slept, and this morning made the portage. All were obliged
to land, unload, carry our baggage, and even the boat, for half a mile. I had
frequently seen the picture of the Indians carrying a canoe, but now I saw the
reality. We found plenty of Indians here to assist in making the portage. After
loading several with our baggage and sending them on, the boat was capsized and
placed upon the heads of about twenty of them, who marched off with it, with
perfect ease. Below the main fall of water are rocks, deep, narrow channels, and
many frightful precipices. We walked deliberately among the rocks, viewing the
scene with astonishment, for this once beautiful river seemed to be cut up and
destroyed by these huge masses of rock. Indeed, it is difficult to find where
the main body of water passes. In high water we are told that these rocks are
all covered with water, the river rising to such an astonishing
height.

After
paying the Indians for their assistance, which was a twist of tobacco about the
length of a finger to each, we reloaded, went on board, sailed about two miles,
and stopped for breakfast. This was done to get away from a throng of Indians.
Many followed us, however, to assist in making another portage, three miles
below this.

Sept.
9th. - We came to The Dalles just before noon. Here our boat was stopped by two
rocks of immense size and height, all the water of the river passing between
them in a very narrow channel, and with great rapidity. Here we were obliged to
land and make a portage of two and a half miles, carrying the boat also. The
Dalles is the great resort of Indians of many tribes for taking fish. We did not
see many, however, for they had just left.

Now,
mother, if I was with you by the fireside, I would relate a scene that would
amuse you, and at the same time call forth your sympathies. But for my own
gratification I will write it. After we landed, curiosity led us to the top of
that rock, to see the course of the river through its narrow channel. But as I
expected to walk that portage, husband thought it would be giving me too much
fatigue to do both. I went with him to its base, to remain there until his
return. I took a handful of hazelnuts and thought I would divert myself with
cracking and eating them. I had just seated myself in the shade of the rock,
ready to commence work, when, feeling something unusual on my neck, I put my
hand under my cape and took from thence two insects, which I soon discovered to
be fleas. Immediately I cast my eyes upon my dress before me, and, to my
astonishment, found it was black with these creatures, making all possible speed
to lay siege to my neck and ears. This sight made me almost frantic. What to do
I knew not. Husband was away, sister Spalding had gone past hearing. To stand
still I could not. I climbed up the rock in pursuit of my husband, who soon saw
and came to me. I could not tell him, but showed him the cause of my distress.
On opening the gathers of my dress around my waist, every plait was lined with
them. Thus they had already laid themselves in ambush for a fresh attack. We
brushed and shook, and shook and brushed, for an hour, not stopping to kill for
that would have been impossible. By this time they were reduced very
considerably, and I prepared to go to the boat. I was relieved from walking by
the offer of a horse from a young chief. This was a kindness, for the way was
mostly through sand, and the walk would have been fatiguing. I found the
confinement of the boat distressing, on account of my miserable companions, who
would not let me rest for a moment in any one position. But I was not the only
sufferer. Every one in the boat was alike troubled, both crew and passengers. As
soon as I was able to make a change in my apparel I found relief.

We
made fine progress this morning till 9 o'clock, when we were met with a head
wind and obliged to make shore. We met the crew last night with the Western
express. This express goes from and returns to Vancouver twice a
year.

Eve.
- Have lain still all day because of the wind. This is a detention, as we
intended to have been at Vancouver by to-morrow evening. A party of Indians came
to our camp this eve. Every head was flattened. These are the first I have seen
near enough to be able to examine them. Their eyes have a dull and heavy
expression.

10th.
- High winds and not able to move at all to-day.

11th.
- We came to the Cascades for breakfast-another important fall in the river,
where we are obliged to make a portage of a mile. The boat was towed along by
the rocks with a rope over the falls. This is another great place for salmon
fishing. A boat load was just ready for Vancouver when we arrived. I saw an
infant here whose head was in the pressing machine. This was a pitiful sight.
Its mother took great satisfaction in unbinding and showing its naked head to
us. The child lay upon a board between which and its head was a squirrel skin.
On its forehead lay a small square cushion, over which was a bandage drawn tight
around, pressing its head against the board. In this position it is kept three
or four months or longer, until the head becomes a fashionable shape. There is a
variety of shapes among them, some being sharper than others. I saw a child
about a year old whose head had been recently released from pressure, as I
supposed from its looks. All the back part of it was a purple color, as if it
had been sadly bruised. We are told that this custom is wearing away very fast.
There are only a few tribes of this river who practice it.

Sept.
12th. - Breakfasted at the saw mill five miles from Vancouver, and made
preparations for entering it. You may be surprised to hear of a saw mill here
when I said that there was no timber on the Columbia. Since we passed the
Cascades the scene is changed, and we are told there is timber all the way to
the coast.

Eve.
- We are now in Vancouver, the New York of the Pacific Ocean. Our first sight,
as we approached the fort, was two ships lying in the harbor, one of which, the
Neriade, Captain Royal, had just arrived from London. The Columbia, Captain
Dandy, came last May, and has since been to the Sandwich Islands, and returned.
On landing we first met Mr. Townsend, whom we saw at Walla Walla. He is from
Philadelphia, and has been in the mountains two years. He is sent here by a
society to collect the different species of bipeds, and quadrupeds, peculiar to
this country. We brought a parcel of letters to him, the first he had received
since he had left home. Mr. Townsend led us into the fort. But before we reached
the home of the chief Factor, Dr. McLoughlin, we were met by several gentlemen,
who came to give us a welcome, Mr. Douglas, Mr. Tolmie and Dr. McLoughlin, of
the Hudson's Bay Company, who invited us in and seated us on the sofa. Soon we
were introduced to Mrs. McLoughlin and Mrs. Douglas, both natives of the
country-half breeds. After chatting a little we were invited to walk in the
garden.

What
a delightful place this is; what a contrast to the rough, barren sand plains,
through which we had so recently passed. Here we find fruit of every
description, apples, peaches, grapes, pears, plums, and fig trees in abundance;
also cucumbers, melons, beans, peas, beets, cabbage, tomatoes and every kind of
vegetable too numerous to be mentioned. Every part is very neat and tastefully
arranged, with fine walks, lined on each side with strawberry vines. At the
opposite end of the garden is a good summer house covered with grape vines. Here
I must mention the origin of these grapes and apples. A gentlemen, twelve years
ago while at a party in London, put the seeds of the grapes and apples which he
ate into his vest pocket. Soon afterwards he took a voyage to this country and
left them here, and now they are greatly multiplied.

After
promenading as much as we wished, and returning, we were met by Mrs. Copendel, a
lady from England, who arrived in the ship Columbia last May, and Miss Maria,
daughter of Dr. McLoughlin, quite an interesting young lady. After dinner we
were introduced to Rev. Mr. Beaver and lady, a clergyman of the Church of
England, who arrived last week in the ship Neriade. This is more than we
expected when we left home-that we should be privileged with the acquaintance
and society of two English ladies. Indeed, we seem to be nearly allied to Old
England, for most of the gentlemen of the Company are from there or
Scotland.

We
have not found Rev. Samuel Parker here, to our great disappointment. He went to
Oahu in the ship Columbia, a few weeks before we arrived. We have mourned about
it considerably, for we thought it would be so acceptable to our dear parents
and friends at home to hear him say that he had seen us alive here, after
completing this long, unheard-of journey. Besides, I wished to send home many
things which I cannot now. More than all this, his counsels and advice would
have been such a relief to us, at this important time, as to location, character
of the Indians, and the like. But it is wisely ordered, and we submit. He
appears to have been a favorite here, and to have done much good.

The
Messrs. Lee left Vancouver on Saturday last for their station on the Wallamet.
Mr. Daniel Lee has been out of health, and for the year past has been at Oahu.
He returned on the Neriade, benefited by his visit.

Sept.
13. - This morning visited the school to hear the children sing. It consists of
about fifty-one children, who have French fathers and Indian mothers. All the
laborers here are Canadian French, with Indian wives. Indeed, some of the
gentlemen of the company have native wives, and have adopted the custom of the
country not to allow their wives to eat with them. French is the prevailing
language here. English is spoken only by a few.

Just
before dinner we went on board the Neriade, the first ship I ever saw. She is a
man-of-war, and goes to the Northwest coast soon. The Columbia returns to London
this fall. The Company have lost three ships on the coast.

Sept.
14. - We were invited to a ride to see the farm. Have ridden fifteen miles this
afternoon. We visited the barns, stock, etc. They estimated their wheat crops at
four thousand bushels this year, peas the same, oats and barley between fifteen
and seventeen hundred bushels each. The potato and turnip fields are large and
fine. Their cattle are numerous, estimated at a thousand head in all the
settlements. They have swine in abundance, also sheep and goats, but the sheep
are of an inferior kind. We find also hens, turkeys, and pigeons, but no
geese.

You
will ask what kind of beds they have here. I can tell you what kind of bed they
made for us, and I have since found it a fashionable bed for this country. The
bedstead is in the form of a bunk, with a rough board bottom, upon which are
laid about a dozen of the Indian blankets. These with a pair of pillows covered
with calico cases constitute our beds, sheets and covering. There are several
feather beds in the place made of the feathers of wild ducks, geese, cranes and
the like. There is nothing here suitable for ticking. The best and only material
is brown linen sheeting. The Indian ladies make theirs of deer skin. Could we
obtain a pair of geese from any quarter I should think much of them.

Sept.
16th. - Every day we have something new to see. We went to the stores and found
them filled above and below with the cargo of the two ships, all in unbroken
bales. They are chiefly Indian goods, and will be sent away this fall to the
several different posts of the company in the ship Neriade. We have found here
every article for comfort and durability that we need, but many articles for
convenience and all fancy articles are not here.

Visited the dairy, also, where we
found butter and cheese in abundance-saw an improvement in the manner of raising
cream. Their pans are an oblong square, quite large but shallow, flaring a
little, made of wood and lined with tin. In the center is a hole with a long
plug. When the cream has risen they place the pan over a tub or pail, remove the
plug, and the milk will run off leaving only the cream in the pan. I think that
these must be very convenient in a large dairy. They milk between fifty and
sixty cows.

On
visiting the mill we did not find it in a high state of improvement. It goes by
horse power and has a wire bolt. This seemed a hard way of getting bread, but
better so than no bread, or to grind by hand. The company have one at Colville
that goes by water, five days ride from Walla Walla, from whence we expect to
obtain our flour, potatoes and pork. They have three hundred hogs.

Dr.
McLoughlin promises to loan us enough to make a beginning and all the return he
asks is that we supply other settlers in the same way. He appears desirous to
afford us every facility for living in his power. No person could have received
a more hearty welcome, or be treated with greater kindness than we have been
since our arrival.

Sept.
17th. - A subject is now before the minds of certain individuals, in which I
feel a great interest. It is that we ladies spend the winter at Vancouver, while
our husbands go to seek their locations and build. Dr. McLoughlin is certain
that it will be the best for us, and I believe is determined to have us stay.
The thought of it is not very pleasant to either of us. For several reasons, I
had rather go to Walla Walla, where, if we failed to make a location, or of
building this fall, we could stay very comfortably, and have enough to eat, but
not as comfortably, or have a s great a variety as here; besides, there is the
difficulty of ascending the river in high water, not to say anything of a six
months' separation, when it seems to be least desirable; but all things will be
ordered for the best.

Sept.
18. - Mr. Beaver held two services in a room in Dr. McLoughlin's barn to-day.
Enjoyed the privilege much. This form of worship, of the Church of England,
differs in no way from that of the Episcopalians in the States. The most of the
gentlemen of the fort are Scotch Presbyterians, very few being Episcopalians.
The greatmass of the laborers are Roman Catholics, who have three services
during the Sabbath, one of which is attended at this house, at which Dr.
McLoughlin officiates in French. He translates a sermon or a tract, and reads a
chapter in the Bible and a prayer. The singing in Mr. Beaver's church was done
by the children, some of their tunes having been taught them by Rev. Mr. Parker,
and others by the Mr. Shepherd, of the Methodist mission.

Sept.
19. - The question is decided at last that we stay here about four or five
weeks. There is so much baggage to be taken up now, that the boat will be
sufficiently loaded without us. Have the cheering promise that our husbands will
come for us in a short time if prospered. One thing comforts us. They are as
unwilling to leave us as we are to stay, and would not if it were possible for
us to go now. From this we are sure that they will make every effort to return
for us soon. We are told that the rainy season will commence soon, and continue
through the winter, and late in the spring, while at Walla Walla there is none.
Vancouver, too, is subject to fever and ague. These are quite good reasons for
preferring Walla Walla, even if we had to live in a lodge.

Have
been making some necessary purchases for our two Indian boys, Richard and John,
which we are glad to do, partly as a reward for their faithful care of the
cattle during the journey. We left them at Walla Walla. They regretted our
leaving them, and now I cannot feel willing to stay away from them all winter.
Their anxiety to study continues the same, especially Richard. We love them both
and feel deeply interested in their welfare, and shall treat them as our own as
long as they deserve it.

Sept.
20th. - Dr. McLoughlin gave my husband a pair of leather pantaloons to-day. All
the gentlemen here wear them for riding for economy. Riding horseback and
carrying a gun in very destructive to cloth pantaloons.

Our
husbands have been making preparations to leave us to-day, but have found so
much to do that they could not get ready to leave much before night. They have
concluded to start the boat a short distance and camp, while they, with Mr.
Pambrun and Mr. Gray, remain in the Fort to leave early in the
morning.

Sept.
21. - Our friends left us this morning early. One thing I should have mentioned,
as decided upon before they left, was the propriety of making two stations.
After consideration it was decided best to do so for several reasons. The
Cayuses as well as the Nez Perces are very anxious to have teachers among them.
They are a numerous tribe not numerous, but wealthy and influential.-M. Eells]
and speak the same language as the Nez Perces. There are other fields open ready
for the harvest and we wish that there were many more laborers here ready to
occupy them immediately. Several places have been recommended which our husbands
intend visiting before they fix upon any place. You will recollect that we had
Grande Ronde in view as a location when we left home. Our reasons for not fixing
upon that place are insurmountable. The pass in the Blue mountains is so
difficult and the distance so great that it would be next to impossible to think
of obtaining supplies sufficient for our support. We could not depend upon game,
for it is very scarce and uncertain. Mr. Parker recommends a place on the
Kooskooska (Clearwater) river, six days' ride above Walla Walla. I hope to give
you our exact location before I send this.

Sept.
22. - Dr. McLoughlin has put his daughter in my care and wishes me to hear her
recitations. Thus I shall have enough to do for diversion while I stay. I could
employ all my time in writing and work for myself if it were not for his
wishes.

I
have not given you a description of our eatables here. There is such a variety I
know not where to begin. For breakfast we have coffee or cocoa, salt salmon and
roast ducks with potatoes. When we have eaten our supply of them, our plates are
changed and we make a finish on bread and butter.

For
dinner we have a greater variety. First we are always treated to a dish of soup,
which is very good. All kinds of vegetables in use are taken, chopped fine, and
put into water with a little rice, ad boiled to a soup. The tomatoes are a
prominent article, and usually some fowl meat, duck or other kind, is cut fine
and added. If it has been roasted once it is just as good (so the cook says),
and then spiced to the taste. After our soup dishes are removed, then comes a
variety of meats to prove our tastes. After selecting and changing, we change
plates and try another if we choose, and so at every new dish have a clean
plate. Roast duck is an everyday dish, boiled pork, tripe, and sometimes
trotters, fresh salmon or sturgeon-yea, articles too numerous to be mentioned.
When these are set aside, a nice pudding or an apple pie is next introduced.
After this a water and a muskmelon make their appearance, and last of all
cheese, bread or biscuit and butter are produced to complete the whole. But
there is one article on the table I have not yet mentioned, and of which I never
partake. That is wine. The gentlemen frequently drink toasts to each other, but
never give us an opportunity of refusing, for they know that we belong to the
Tetotal Society. We have talks about drinking wine, but no one joins our
society. They have a Temperance Society here and at Wallamet, formed by Mr.
Lee.

Our
tea is very plain. Bread and butter, good tea, plenty of milk and
sugar.

Sept.
30th. - We are invited to ride as often as once a week for exercise, and we
generally ride all the afternoon. To-day Mrs. McLoughlin rode with us. She keeps
her old fashion of riding gentlemen fashion. This is the universal custom of
Indian women, and they have saddles with high backs and fronts. We have been
recommended to use these saddles, a more easy way of riding, but we have never
seen the necessity of changing our fashion.

I
sing about an hour every evening with the children, teaching them new tunes, at
the request of Dr. McLoughlin. Thus I am wholly occupied, and can scarcely find
as much time as I want to write.

Oct.
18th. The Montreal Express came this afternoon, and a general time of rejoicing
it is to everyone. News from distant friends, both sad and pleasing.

Mr.
Spalding has come with it and brought a letter from my husband, filled with
pleasing information. The Lord has been with them since they left us, and has
prospered them beyond all expectations. They have each selected a location. My
husband remains there to build, while Mr. Spalding comes after us. Cheering
thought this, to be able to make a beginning in our pleasing work so
soon.

My
Dear Sister Perkins: - Your letter was handed me on the 8th. inst., a little
after noon, and I must say I was a little surprised to receive a return so soon.
Surely, we are near each other. You will be likely to have known opportunities
of sending to us, more frequently than I shall your way, which I hope you will
not neglect because you have not received the answer to yours. I do not intend
to be so long again in replying as I have this time. When I received yours, I
was entirely alone. My husband had gone to brother Spalding's to assist him in
putting up a house, and soon after, we had the privilege of preparing and
entertaining Mr. and Mrs. McDonald and family of Colville. They came by the way
of brother Spalding's, spent nearly a week with them and then came here. They
left here last Thursday, and are still at Walla Walla. Had a very pleasant,
agreeable visit with them. Find Mrs. McDonald quite an intelligent woman; speaks
English very well, reads and is the principal instructor of their children. She
is a correspondent, also, with myself and sister Spalding. She appears more
thoughtful upon the subject of religion than any I have met with before, and has
some consistent views. What her experimental knowledge is, I am unable to say.
It would be a privilege to have her situated near us, so that we could have
frequent intercourse; it would, no doubt be profitable.

You
ask after my plan of proceedings with the Indians, etc. I wish I was able to
give you satisfactory answers. I have no plan separate from my husband's, and
besides you are mistaken about the language being at command, for nothing is
more difficult than for me to attempt to convey religious truth in their
language, especially when there are so few, or not terms expressive of the
meaning. Husband succeeds much better than I, and we have good reason to feel
that so far as understood, the truth affects the heart, and not little, too. We
have done nothing for the females separately; indeed, our house is so small, and
only one room to admit them, and that is the kitchen. It is the men only that
frequent our house much. Doubtless you have been with the Indians long enough to
discover this feature, that women are not allowed the same privileges as men. I
scarcely see them except on the Sabbath in our assemblies. I have frequently
desired to have more intercourse with them, and am waiting to have a room built
for them and other purposes of instruction. Our principal effort is with the
children now, and we find many very interesting ones. But more of this in future
when I have more time.

Mr.
Pambrun has sent a horse for me to ride to his place tomorrow. Mrs. Pambrun has
been out of health for some time, and we have fears that she will not recover.
As I have considerable preparations to make for the visit, must defer writing
more at present. In haste, I subscribe myself,

Your
affectionate sister in Christ,

NARCISSA WHITMAN

P.S.
- I long to hear from Mrs. Lee.

WALLA
WALLA, 11th. My Dear Sister: I am still here. The brigade arrived yesterday and
having time and opportunity to send home for this letter, both are sent by
return boats. We have just received three or four letters from our friends at
home, they being the first news received since we bade them farewell. Find it
good to know what is going on there, although all is not of a pleasing
character. Our Sandwich Island friends give us pleasing intelligence of the
glorious display of the power of God in converting that heathen people in such
multitudes.

Ever
yours,

N.
WHITMAN.

Rev.
Mrs. H.K.W. Perkins, Wascopum, La Dalls. My Dear Sister Perkins: I did not think
when I received your good long letter that I should have delayed until this time
before answering it. But so varied are the scenes that have passed before me, so
much company and so many cares, etc., besides writing many letters home, that I
beg you will excuse me. Notwithstanding all this, I have often, very often,
thought of you and wished for the privilege of seeing you. I must confess I do
not like quite so well to think of you where you now are as when you were
nearer. Why did you go? Some of our sisters might just as well as not have spent
a short season with you this fall (for they have nothing else to do,
comparatively speaking) rather than to have you and your dear husband lose so
much time from your interesting field of labor; and besides we fear the
influence of the climate of the lower country upon your health. Our prayer is
that the Lord will deal gently with you and bless and preserve you to be a rich
and lasting good to the benighted ones for whom you have devoted your
life.

How
changed the scene now with us at Wieletpoo from what it has been in former days.
Instead of husband and myself stalking about here like two solitary beings, we
have the society of six of our brethren and sisters who eat at our table and
expect to spend the winter with us. This is a privilege we highly praise,
especially when we come to mingle our voices in prayer and praise together
before the mercy seat, and hear the word of God preached in our own language
from Sabbath to Sabbath, and to commune together around the table of our dear
Son and Saviour Jesus Christ. Those favors, dear sister, almost make us forget
we are on heathen ground. Since I last wrote to you we have enjoyed refreshing
seasons from the hand of our Heavenly Father in the conviction and conversion of
two or three individuals in our family. Doubtless Brother Lee has given you the
particulars, yet I wish to speak of it for our encouragement who have been
engaged in the concert of prayer on Tuesday evening for the year past. I verily
believe we have not prayed in vain, for our revival seasons have been on that
evening, and I seem to feel, too, that the whole atmosphere in all Oregon is
effected by that meeting, for the wicked know far and near, that there are those
here who pray. We have every reason to be assured that were there more faith and
prayer and consecration to the work among ourselves, we should witness in the
heathen around us many turning to the Lord. If I know my own heart I think I,
too, desire to be freed from so many worldly cares and perplexities, and that my
time may be spent in seeking the immediate conversion of these dear heathen to
God. O, what a thought to think of meeting them among the blood-washed throng
around the throne of God! Will not their songs be as sweet as any we can sing?
What joy will then fill our souls to contemplate the privilege we now enjoy of
spending and being spent for their good. If we were constantly to keep our eyes
on the scenes that are before us, we should scarcely grow weary in well doing,
or be disheartened by the few trials and privations through which we are called
to pass.

Dear
sister, I have written in great haste and hope you will excuse me. Wishing and
expecting to hear from you soon, of your prosperity and happiness, with much
love and sisterly affection to you and yours, believe me,

Ever
yours in the best bonds,

NARCISSA WHITMAN

Rev.
Mrs. H.K.W. Perkins, Willamette. WALLA WALLA, Dec. 5, 1836 My Dear Mother: I
have been thinking of my beloved parents this evening; of the parting scene, and
of the probability that I shall never see those dear faces again while I live.
Sweet as it used to be, when my heart was full, to sit down and pour into my
mother's bosom all my feelings, both sad and rejoicing; now, when far away from
the parental roof, and thirsting for the same precious privilege, I take my pen
and find a sweet relief in giving her my history in the same familiar way.
Perhaps no one else feels as I do. It would be, indeed, a great satisfaction to
me to have my mother know how I do from day to day-what my employment and
prospects are-but more especially the dealings, the kind dealings of my Heavenly
Father towards us continually.

We
left Vancouver Thursday noon, Nov. 3rd, in two boats-Mr. McLeod, myself and
baggage in one, and Mr. S. in the other. We are well provided for in everything
we could wish-good boats, with strong and faithful men to manage them; indeed,
eight of them were Iroquois Indians, from Montreal-men accustomed to the water
from their childhood, and well acquainted with the dangers of this river. Mr.
McLeod's accompanying us was as unexpected as desirable. He only came into
Vancouver two days previous to our leaving, from an expedition to the Umpqua,
south of the Willamette. It rained some that afternoon, also on the 4th and 5th;
the 6th it rained all day, nearly, and the wind was very strong, but in our
favor, so that we kept our sail up most of the day. Our boat was well covered
with an oilcloth. At night, when a great fire was made, our tents pitched and
the cloth spread for tea, all was pleasant and comfortable. I rolled my bed and
blankets in my India-rubber cloak, which preserved them quite well from the
rain, so that nights I slept warm and comfortable as ever. My featherbed was of
essential service to me in keeping my health this rainy voyage. Did not expect
to get one when I wrote from Vancouver.

On
the morning of the 7th we arrived at the Cascades, made the portage and
breakfasted. Had considerable rain. The men towed the boats up the falls, on the
opposite side of the river. The water was very low, and made it exceedingly
difficult for them to drag the boats up, in the midst of the rocks and noise of
the foaming waters. Sometimes they were obliged to lift the boats over the
rocks, at others go around them, to the entire destruction of the gum upon them,
which prevents them from leaking. It was nearly night before all were safely
over the difficult passage, and our boats gummed, ready for
launching.

8th.
- Breakfasted just below The Dalles. Passed them without unloading the boats.
This was done by attaching a strong rope of considerable length to the stern of
the boat, two men only remaining in it to guide and keep it clear of the rocks,
while the remainder, and as many Indians as can be obtained, draw it along with
the rope,walking upon the edge of the rocks above the frightful precipice. At
the Little Dalles, just above these, the current is exceedingly strong and
rapid, and full of whirlpools. Not recollecting the place particularly, at the
request of the bowsman I remained in the boat, being quite fatigued with my walk
past the other Dalles. It is aterrific sight, and a frightful place to be in, to
be drawn along in such a narrow channel between such high, craggy, perpendicular
bluffs, the men with the rope clambering sometimes upon their hands and knees
upon the very edge, so high above us as to appear small, like boys. Many times
the rope would catch against the rocks and oblige someone to crawl carefully
over the horrible precipice to unloosen it, much to the danger of his life. When
my husband came up, in passing this place, the rope caught in a place so
difficult of access that no one would venture his life to extricate it, for some
time. At last, an Indian ventured. When he had ascended sufficiently to unfasten
it, he was unable to return, and did not until he was drawn up by a rope. They
had another accident which threatened both the lives of some of them, and the
property, and but for the protecting hand of God would have been lost. While the
men with the rope were climbing up a steep and difficult ascent, the rope lodged
upon a rock, which held it fast, and had it remained there until all hands had
gained their point and commenced hauling, all would have been well; but one of
the men above prematurely shoved it off. The current took the boat down stream
rapidly, in spite of every effort to save it, prostrating all hands upon the
rocks, and some of them were nearly precipitated down the precipice by the rope.
The boat received no injury, but was safely moored below The Dalles, on the
opposite shore. Our husbands, with the men, obtained an Indian canoe and crossed
to the boat. Thus they were preserved. It was just night as we succeeded in
passing this difficult place in safety, for which we desired to be grateful.
Many boats have been dashed to pieces at these places, and more than a hundred
lives lost. The water was very low at this time, which makes the danger much
less in passing them. No rain to-day. Thursday we made the portage of the
chutes, and were all day about it. While on land, had several heavy showers.
Friday, also, was another soaking-wet day; the night, too. This was dreary
enough. Saturday was much more pleasant-no rain. We arrived at Walla Walla early
Sabbath morning, in health, with all our effects preserved to us, mercifully. I
felt that I had great cause to bless and praise God, for so seasonable a return,
and under such favorable circumstances. Husband come from our location on the
18th. Had succeeded in making a comfortable place for me, but because of Mr.
Pambrun's earnest solicitation for me to remain a few weeks with his family. I
did not return with him. Mr. and Mrs. P. are exceeding kind-appear to feel that
they cannot do too much to make us contented and happy here. In the meantime, I
am cheerfully engaged in teaching the wife and daughter to read. We consider it
a very kind providence to be situated near one family so interesting, and a
native female that promises to be so much society for me. She is learning to
speak the English language quite fast. Mr. and Mrs. S. left Walla Walla for
their location, on the 22nd of November, Mr. Gray going with them to assist in
building, etc. This dear sister goes very cheerfully to her location, expecting
to live in a skin lodge until her house is built; and this, too, in the dead of
winter; But she prefers it to remaining here, and so should I.

Heard
from husband last week, and of the death of Hinds, a colored man who came with
us from Rendezvous on account of his health, being far gone with the dropsy.
Already death has entered our house, and laid one low.

Dec.
8th. - Received intelligence that husband was coming tomorrow to remove our
effects and myself to our new home. It is an agreeable thought to be so near a
fixed location after journeying so long.

Dec.
26th. - Where are we now, and who are we that we should be thus blessed of the
Lord? I can scarcely realize that we are thus comfortably fixed, and keeping
house, so soon after our marriage, when considering what was then before us. We
arrived here on the tenth-distance, twenty-five miles from Walla Walla. Found a
house reared and the lean-to enclosed, a good chimney and fireplace, and the
floor laid. No windows or door except blankets. My heart truly leaped for joy as
I alighted from my horse, entered and seated myself before a pleasant fire (for
it was now night). It occurred to me that my dear parents had made a similar
beginning, and perhaps a more difficult one than ours. We had neither straw,
bedstead or table, nor anything to make them of except green cottonwood. All our
boards are sawed by hand. Here my husband and his laborers (two Owyhees from
Vancouver and a man who crossed the mountains with us), and Mr. Gray, have been
encamped in tents since the 19th of October, toiling excessively hard to
accomplish this much for our comfortable residence during the remainder of the
winter.

It is
indeed, a lovely situation. We are on a beautiful level-a peninsula formed by
the branches of the Walla Walla river, upon the base of which our house stands,
on the southeast corner, near the shore of the main river. To run a fence across
to the opposite river, on the north from our house-this, with the river, would
enclose 300 acres of good land for cultivation, all directly under the eye. The
rivers are barely skirted with timber. This is all the woodland we can see;
beyond them, as far as the eye can reach, plains and mountains appear. On the
east, a few rods from the house, is a range of small hills, covered with
bunchgrass-a very excellent food for animals, and upon which they subsist during
winter, even digging it from under the snow.