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It's an interesting and probably frightening concept to many French people that their cuisine no longer belongs to them. International chefs claiming ability and interest in serving French food in Paris, but in ways that differ from exclusively upper class, 'artifactual' French cuisine of the past, incorporating influences from different nations. Answering France's economic upheaval, they opened relaxed, affordable French bistro's completely disregarding the mono-culturalist view of French cuisine preceding it.

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I found this article quite shocking! The idea that classy restaurants which we pay big money are potentially serving us what is essentially glorified areoplane food is horrifying!! I think in order to reinvigorate a predictable city in terms of its foodscape, reinvention of tourist traps as well as perhaps introducing a Slow Food movement jut as Italy has done.The young foreign chefs that now headline Paris's cuisn innovation. Perhaps this well help conpensate for the striking and increasing popularity of McDonalds and other fast food chains in what is supposed to be Europe's authentic food capital.

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The chefs and farmers band together to liase and create traditional dishes with old style techniques, utensils. More importantly, however, a key part to the mentality of farmers in recreating and giving life to these dishes using seasonal ingredients of the highest quality. This serves as a pragmatic and educational  way to preserve Catalonian heritage. The food pride is constantly faced with the threat of reinvention of dishes for classy, up market resturants. Perhaps to combat this socio-cultural change further still by using the Association to educate future generations!

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The 20+ Cuisine Associations of Catalonia are comprised chefs and farmers. They prepare traditional Catalonian dishes, using ancient recipes, old techniques and utensils, influence by seasonal produce and climate. They aim to preserve the roots of Catalonia through their cooking, in a time where the gastronomical revolution has seen traditional Catalonian heritage is becoming 'diluted' by a pretentious, refined and molecular version of its prior self.

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Cookbooks link food to place, it doesn't matter whether the food is cooked or not

Cuisine and food bring together regions and nations, in a similar way to sport

French cuisine is codified, and is not bound by certain places, making it a structured system that is highly portable and travels easily. With the codified techniques of a certain cuisine, new dishes of that cuisine can be created anywhere in the world

In terms of culinary acculturation, taste works from and to the familiar. The more foreign the food, the more essential it is for a translation of the exotic (taste) into a "familiar, or at least recognisable, gastronomic lexicon"

The further we are from the origin of the product, the more likely we are to associate the place with the nation, not the region. An pertinent example of this is Spanish Paella, which is often associated with Spain amongst foreigners, rather than where the dish originated, Valencia. Whereas, most Spanish are easily able to recognise the dish as native to Valencia.

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Culinary Nationalism in the Past (France)
- National cuisine is one that cuts across all regions and class (Pampille), yet nationalism in cuisine is the sum of its regional parts.
- The codification of French cuisine allows it to be easily transferable, allowing the code itself to become French cuisine, not the place, products or people involved in the culinary practice of it.
-  The notion that ingredients don't just form the basis of a dish, but transmit a landscape of their origin to the diner. A meal has to be consumed in the right spot to be 'authentic', "The fish do not travel, so the consumer must." However, Pampille states that true appreciation lies in being born where the dish originated.

Culinary Nationalism Today
- No geographical/ political boundaries
- culinary distinction is a mark of identity, and used in a way to make traditions edible, promoting tourism.
-  "As long as you keep your feet planted in the techniques of Japanese cookery, new Japanese dishes can be created anywhere in the world."
- A set of rules makes a cuisine easily transferable
- The more a cuisine is defined by its products, place and people, the more it limits influence elsewhere.
- We are still highly selective about the food we take from The Other, and how it matches to our idea of their country's authenticity.

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I find it interesting how national culinary ideas form and change in different ways over time. I also found the idea of an individual's place in a greater community very intrigueing. Essentially, what we are is we what we eat, and furthermore, when and how we eat things defines us also. How we attatch meaning to food (symbols, rituals, metaphors and the like) can also say a lot about our self-perception and how we place ourselves in relation to others. Even though we never may know the people who engage in the same traditions and celebrations, we are connected and invested in these people because they help define "us" from the foreign "other."

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Grimond de la reyniere

·       1783

·       hosted outlandish entertainments known as “funeral supper”

·       use of the table for social and political commentary

·       overage adolescent (25) rebelling against aristocratic parents

·       father was a tax collector

·       mother was from the noblesse d’epee

·       dropped the distinguishing de from his name

·       Grimond had recessive genes and malformed hands

·       Brought shame to his parents

·       Got prosthetic hands in 1775

·       Orchestrated an evening that insulted his family and questioned social hierarchies

·       Dishes made entirely of pork

·       Dressed a live pig in his fathers clothes and seated him at the head of the table

·       Arrested- ate with monks and studied the arts of the table

·       Once revolution hit he enjoyed peace with parents

·       Travelled learning about ingredients and cooking styles

·       Returned to paris in 1794

·       Allowed to stay in hotel Grimond la reyniere

·       Needed to work, returned to theatrical reviewing

·       Thought public needed a reliable guide to the gastronomic arts

·       Almanach des Gourmands

·       8 volumes 1803-1812

·       20,000 copies

·       group of diners the jury degustateur, weekly dinners

·       people could submit dishes for evaluation

·       fair and reliable

·       dishes served one at a time

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French cuisine has been successful due to the codification of the national cuisine. ‘The dinner belongs to the landscape’ embodies how French national identity has enabled such strong ties with gastronomy. By creating region specific dishes they allow greater recognition and allow the meals to be intrinsically linked to the land or nation.The example of Le Grand chef highlights that a national dish can be easily judged and picked apart by outsiders but to those from the country itself, the national identity of it gives it evener greater appeal.

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Reading: Claw at the Table
Much like modern, innovative chefs today, Grimod displayed little concern for social and political expectations placed upon those within his rank/class. Instead, his untamed ego reigned supreme, ultimately leading to a lasting legacy as a culinary, cult-figure.
* * *
This might be a stretch, but perhaps he also found comfort in the warm appreciation associated with the creation and presentation of food - something denied to him as a child through his Mother's rejection of his physical form. The pomp and circumstance (the ceremony ) that is a dinner party likely filled him with a great sense of pride and self-assurance. His wild antics would certainly suggest he yearned for acceptance/approval.
* * *
Feeding off Tay's comments above, I too would enjoy comparing Grimod's story with that of a woman in a similar position. My instincts tell me that in 18th/19th Century France, rather than being celebrated or revered as Grimod, a young woman may have been ostracised from her home/community and likely resigned to an institution for displaying such wild, unpredictable behaviour.

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-       Grimod La Reyniere is a personification of the idea that food is influence by cultural, economic, political and personal factors, by using food to express his distaste towards his own family and the French aristocracy during his elaborate and outlandish dinner parties.

-      The Funeral Supper catalysed his pathway to revolutionising French cuisine. He began ‘studying the arts of the table; instead of the table as art’ and travelling across Europe to deepen his knowledge of this great art of dining.

-       This contrasts Careme's view of French cuisine as the preparation of food & culinary techniques; while Grimod La Reyniere focused on the politics of French cuisine through the Almanach des Gourmands.

-       His lasting influence is seen in the service of food at restaurants today. 3 separate courses to allow full attention (and perhaps maximum pleasure) to be given to the dish. He reiterates the notion that food moves beyond a nutritional purpose, instead being an art form that provides pleasure to its recipient, similarly to other forms of art.

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It's clear Grimod's family has challenged him! It's often forces such as these that drive a person to go beyond the norm and strive not just for thier benefit but for that of a nation, a culture: a food culture. I love would love to see an article of this nature about an established female chef, or perhaps how this article may been approached differently were Grimod a woman.

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Re Claw at the Table:
Grimod was clearly an innovator, coming from a clearly dysfunctional family he was not afraid to be innovative, shocking and entrepreneurial. A bit like the bad boys of modern-day cuisine such as Gordon Ramsay or Anthony Bourdain.

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

[double click to edit]

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DAY 3: Parkhurst Ferguson, P. 'Culinary nationalism' 

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DAY 3: Parkhurst Ferguson, P. 'Culinary nationalism' 

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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No Readings Project work DAY 4, DAY 5 or DAY 6

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No Readings Project work DAY 4, DAY 5 or DAY 6

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DAY 2: Kaufman, C. 'The Claw at the table: The gastronomic criticism of Grimod de la Reynière'

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DAY 2: Kaufman, C. 'The Claw at the table: The gastronomic criticism of Grimod de la Reynière'

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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Summarise the reading here...

[double click to edit]

...maybe 150 words?

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Summarise the reading here...

...maybe 150 words?

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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DAY 8: Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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DAY 8: Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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Summarise the reading here...

...maybe 150 words?

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Summarise the reading here...

...maybe 150 words?

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http://www.catalunya.com/what-to-do/savour/gastronomy-with-a-past-with-the-cuisine-associations

Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?