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Initial research done - subcultures in the 80's, how iD was founded, interviews found.
Completed dissertation proposal

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This Terry Jones Interview was an insightful start to researching his design process and background

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This Terry Jones Interview was an insightful start to researching his design process and background

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This book gave me a good overview of the topics that defined the 80's

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Dissertation Proposal - Isabella Schlieben

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- Watched Documentary on Vivienne Westwood and Punk movement
- Watched interview with Terry Jones about his journey
- Read online articles and interviews with Terry Jones and his wife
- Explored similar publications and their founders
- Looked into videos from the 80's with members of youth subcultures

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punk first went to court during the 80's before being used on Mastercard and other mainstream things

Punk is driven off human rights and wanting good change - anarchy felt like the answer at the time

Punks had to shock in order to get attention

Wore the swastika as a statement against people in power (Vivienne claimed people in power were all fascists anyway so she wanted to shock them)

The term Punk killed the culture because they were able to put everyone into a ‘box’ - limiting and degrading

Deep rooted rebellion for climate change and extinction

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Terry Jones talks about how he was when he went to art college and what drove him to start iD
The relevance of identity to iD
Terry saw himself as a fashion victim and expresses an interest in punk

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The presenter poses questions to a crowd of people from a mixture of youth cultures.
Mods, Punks, Rockers, Skinheads etc
The people discuss amongst each other what the youth cultures mean to them and why they belong to them
Provides some insight into why they were important to people and the problems they faced.
Express what makes them inspired

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What is youth culture | Have your say | Mods | Punks | 1980s Youth | White Light | 1980

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- I emailed Aurum press, the company who published 'Not Another Punk Book' which Terry Jones was art director of
- Unfortunately it was published so long ago that they don't have a copy of the book for me to see and they can't offer any insight into the process.
- However, they offered insight into where I can find one to view to look at Terry's design style

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- I emailed Neville Brody's design studio Brody Associates.
- Neville Brody was art director of The Face from 1981 to 1986
- The Face was running at the same time as iD and they can be compared to each other because of their similar styles and content.
- I reached out in the hopes of learning more about the running of The Face and Neville Brody's style and design.

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This has been a good way of starting my dissertation and gauging what more I need to explore and what is missing.

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How did British creatives in the 80s pave the way for younger generations in the world of editorial design_ the founding of iD magazine

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In October 2022 I managed to go to the Kings Road in London to visit the now ‘World’s End’ store which was originally ‘SEX’. I have visited the Kings Road many times prior for shopping and visits to the Saatchi Gallery, but this was the first time I had gone so far up the legendary road.
It was full to the brim with memorabilia and archive pieces as well as newer clothing and accessories. The soundtrack was appropriate to the decade in which the store thrived and although photos were not allowed, I managed to sneak just one.

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The Society of the Spectacle proved as a tricky read and although I only managed to read 3 chapters, it proved an interesting thought process on society and I noticed some references to commodity fetishism.

A key quote I took away was that the 'spectacle' is seen as a social relation between people that is mediated by images or 'content' alluding to the fact that we don't ever have genuine connections with people, they're all purely mediated by content that we consume.

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I got the chance to interview my father about his experience following I-D Magazine during the 1980's and how it has impacted his life now.

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What kind of impact did iD have on you during the 80s?

“It challenged me, um it made me think about choices I had made up until that point as in the type of fashion or possibly the lifestyle I was interested in as a youngster.”

“It just showed me that there were other ways - you know - not necessarily comfortable.”

“I think it was too, I found it, yeah it just challenged me. I didn’t agree with everything I was seeing but it was somehow drawing me out and bringing me into some sort of middle ground.”

How did iD inspire you creatively or with what you wore or what you did at the time?

“I definitely started to change where I shopped. I tried places in the magazine. Kensington Market, that sort of thing, and generally there more than anywhere else because the whole thing was overwhelming so I thought if I just go to Kensington Market I can get a variety there without having to do too much plodding through London because I was living in Surrey at the time.”

“I did a bit of Army surplus shopping as well and one thing I definitely did was I started accessorising my own clothes. Either with badges, pins or sewing or actually painting directly onto my clothes with tippex because I didn't have anything else handy so I used tippex and it was fine.”

“I think I painted the cud symbol on the back of an army surplus jacket and had a variety of pins on the front.”

“Also I guess I was reading Arena magazine at the time and The Face and the sort of high fashion that did cross over was sort of interesting because it was a bit more outrageous so I wore Junior Gaultier because obviously I couldn't afford Jean paul gaultier as a student.”

“And I used to dress as if I was one of those people in the clubs that were photographed and I would walk into college wearing some of this stuff and lorry drivers would hoot their horns.”

“It was kind of fun and it was nice - when you want to be different you know it gave me plenty of ideas.”

Would you consider yourself a ‘fashion victim’?

“Yeah definitely. I was definitely a fashion victim when I was into my Japanese brands like Matsuda, Yamamoto, Comme Des Garcons and others.”

“I lapped it up. I had this really weird relationship with that I knew I was a fashion victim but I didn't have any choice.”

What was/is different about iD compared to The Face and Arena and other similar publications at the time?

“I think it was the - Arena and The Face seem to be more commercial, they had more mainstream adverts so you would havenmore beer adverts or technology adverts in those magazines maybe. The - you know - the cost of everything was higher in those magazines but that was still enticing. And it felt like iD was the route to go if you wanted to make your own version maybe.”

“The Face was probably the most mainstream of those three magazines. It was good, it was a good balance of design. I would say that magazine was design, Arena was fashion and iD was street life, street fashion if I had to sum things up or possible nightlife.”

“There were people who were going to trendy clubs up and down the country in those magazines. I wasn’t necessarily going to those clubs but I wanted to take some of that fun - they seemed to have fun, they were living a different life and I was trying to tap into that. In the suburbs you feel like you are missing out a little bit so you've got this hunger for what's going on and that magazine helped to see what was happening and it did feel kind of up to the minute unlike the other magazines so you got the sense that things came round seasonally because it was so fashion driven whereas iD was more of a movement type thing. Especially when the magazine switched to recycled paper and they did a special on recycling in general so there were people who were making dresses out of used phone cards for example.”

“Also you got to see up and coming designers from Europe as well, not to mention college shows but also just small designers in the Netherlands or Belgium or wherever. People who were unknown.”

What have you carried from iD into your life now - whether that's creatively or just kind of in general in terms of your lifestyle?

“Colour is one thing. I kind of think that there's definitely got this feeling of - if not now then when?”

“With the use of colour or your choice of clothing. What are you waiting for? Do you care if people judge you? I think basically it gave me courage because I could see other people doing it and they were real people - the shots from the streets or in the clubs you know these are real people and they were pulling it off.”

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My father was able to track down two of his old copies of i-D magazine which proved interesting to analyse in comparison to recent copies of i-D magazine. It showed the format they were printed in before the magazine became a fat glossy and included contemporary adverts and interesting articles.

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Starting in early December 2022 I began to write my main body of text for the dissertation.

I finally finished writing in early January. Along the way, my previous research proved very useful and opened up different avenues of exploration. For instance, I found the topic for my final chapter when talking to my father about zines that he followed at the time.