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dog bite jute pillow pull toy with 2 strong handles

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durable bite training toys for medium to large dogs (black)

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Dog Tug Toy, Dog Bite Jute Pillow Pull Toy with Strong Handles, Perfect for Tug of War, Puppy Training Interactive Play, Durable Bite Training Toys for Medium to Large Dogs

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Find Dog Tug Toy, Dog Bite Jute Pillow Pull Toy with 2 Strong Handles, Perfect for Tug of War, Puppy Training Interactive Play, Durable Bite Training Toys for Medium to Large Dogs (Black) and more at Amazon.com

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Great for the crate or kennel for the safety and comfort of your dog! The products are pricey but they have an amazing warranty and a friend of mine still has his bed for his 2 year old Doberman Pincher (the bed has been around since he was a baby)

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K9 Ballistics armored frames were built for ultimate toughness ,designed to keep chewers from accessing the edges of the fabric on their bedding. Since the conception of the original chew proof style dog cot, we've built a whole series around our strongest and most durable line of metal frame elevated dog beds. Available in padded and unpadded versions with waterproof, mesh, and industrial vinyl fabric options.

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K9 Ballistics® | Indestructible, Chew Proof & Large Dog Beds

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K9 Ballistics armored frames were built for ultimate toughness ,designed to keep chewers from accessing the edges of the fabric on their bedding. Since the conception of the original chew proof style dog cot, we've built a whole series around our strongest and most durable line of metal frame elevated dog beds.

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TRUTH ABOUT POTTY PADS 🤯 How to potty train indoors, FAST

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Eevee gets very vocal when she hears loud noises, so watch how I work her when she hears the gardeners come! I'm using a combination of engage and disengage, and watch me. Using all of these I can effectively get her to stop herself from barking, and eventually calm down. Ignore me in the video, I didn't realize how loud it was and you could bareky hear me, so save yourself the trouble and ignore what I'm saying.

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Grandpa Vs Hyperactive Boxer Dog | It's Me or the Dog

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Dog Behaviourist. Dog Expert Witness. Nick Jones MA

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Grooming and Body Handling Your Puppy. #11

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Puppy Handling Training - Professional Dog Training Tips

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Take a look at the different methods they are using to work with this dog and keep in mind the boundaries they have implemented first and foremost to ensure her safety and the safety of the guests.

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Family Split if Dog Should be Put Down After Attack on Girl | It's Me or the Dog

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She is using the stop and go method I've mentioned. Be patient and be stubborn

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House-training your dog or puppy requires patience, commitment and lots of consistency. Accidents are part of the process, but if you follow these basic house-training guidelines, you can get the newest member of your family on the right track in a few weeks' time.

Establish a routine

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. The schedule teaches them that there are times to eat, times to play and times to do their business. Generally speaking, a puppy can control their bladder one hour for every month of age. So if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for about two hours. Don't go longer than this between bathroom breaks or they're guaranteed to have an accident.

Take your puppy outside frequently -at least every two hours-and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking.

Pick a bathroom spot outside, and always take your puppy (on a leash) to that spot. While your puppy is relieving themselves, use a specific word or phrase that you can eventually use before they go to remind them what to do. Take them out for a longer walk or some playtime only after they have eliminated.

Reward your puppy every time they eliminate outdoors. Praise or give treats-but remember to do so immediately after they've finished, not after they come back inside. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for going outdoors is the only way to teach what's expected of them. Before rewarding, be sure they're finished. Puppies are easily distracted and if you praise too soon, they may forget to finish until they're back in the house.

Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. What goes into a puppy on a schedule comes out of a puppy on a schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that they'll eliminate at consistent times as well, making housetraining easier for both of you.

Pick up your puppy's water dish about two and a half hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that they'll need to relieve themselves during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without needing a bathroom break. If your puppy does wake you up in the night, don't make a big deal of it; otherwise they will think it is time to play and won't want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don't talk to or play with your puppy, take them out and then return them to bed.

Supervise your puppy

Don't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on them whenever they're indoors.

Tether your puppy to you or a nearby piece of furniture with a six-foot leash if you are not actively training or playing. Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go out. Some signs are obvious, such as barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take them outside to their bathroom spot. If they eliminate, praise them and reward with a treat.

Keep your puppy on leash in the yard. During the housetraining process, your yard should be treated like any other room in your house. Give your puppy some freedom in the house and yard only after they become reliably housetrained.

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House-training your dog or puppy requires patience, commitment and lots of consistency. Accidents are part of the process, but if you follow these basic house-training guidelines, you can get the newest member of your family on the right track in a few weeks' time. Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule.

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More Begging at the table! Impulse Control!

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More Begging at the table! Impulse Control!

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Spoilt Dog's Bizarre Favorite Food Gets Cracked Down On | It's Me or the Dog

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Owner Sent to Court Over Noisy Nuisance Dog! |  It's Me or The Dog

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How to Train Your Puppy to STOP BITING, Watch How Long it Actually Takes!

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I absolutely love Victoria Stilwell, she is an amazing dog trainer and has even worked with Petco before. She also had her own TV show called "It's Me or the Dog" that I reference quite often in my classes.

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Puppy Mouthing (Training Basics) | Teacher's Pet With Victoria Stilwell

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Redirection of mouthing to training and other tips

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Redirection of mouthing to training and other tips

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I love this article! I already reference a lot of the tips they discuss here in class, but if you ever need reitertion, you can take a look at this!

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Puppies spend a great deal of time playing, chewing and investigating objects. All of these normal activities involve puppies using their mouths and their needle-sharp teeth. When puppies play with people, they often bite, chew and mouth on people's hands, limbs and clothing. This kind of behavior may seem cute when your puppy is seven weeks old, but it's not nearly so endearing when he's three or four months old-and getting bigger by the day!

What to Do About Puppy Mouthing

It's important to help your puppy learn to curb his mouthy behavior. There are various ways, some better than others, to teach this lesson. The ultimate goal is to train your puppy to stop mouthing and biting people altogether. However, the first and most important objective is to teach him that people have very sensitive skin, so he must be very gentle when using his mouth.

Bite Inhibition: Teach Your Puppy to Be Gentle
Bite inhibition refers to a dog's ability to control the force of his mouthing. A puppy or dog who hasn't learned bite inhibition with people doesn't recognize the sensitivity of human skin, and so he bites too hard, even in play. Some behaviorists and trainers believe that a dog who has learned to use his mouth gently when interacting with people will be less likely to bite hard and break skin if he ever bites someone in a situation apart from play-like when he's afraid or in pain.

Puppies usually learn bite inhibition during play with other puppies. If you watch a group of puppies playing, you'll see plenty of chasing, pouncing and wrestling. Puppies also bite each other all over. Every now and then, a pup will bite his playmate too hard. The victim of the painful bite yelps and usually stops playing. The offender is often taken aback by the yelp and also stops playing for a moment. However, pretty soon, both playmates are back in the game. Through this kind of interaction, puppies learn to control the intensity of their bites so that no one gets hurt and the play can continue without interruption. If puppies can learn how to be gentle from each other, they can also learn the same lesson from people.

When you play with your puppy, let him mouth on your hands. Continue play until he bites especially hard. When he does, immediately give a high-pitched yelp, as if you're hurt, and let your hand go limp. This should startle your puppy and cause him to stop mouthing you, at least momentarily. (If yelping seems to have no effect, you can say "Too bad!" or "You blew it!" in a stern voice instead.) Praise your puppy for stopping or for licking you. Resume whatever you were doing before. If your puppy bites you hard again, yelp again. Repeat these steps no more than three times within a 15-minute period. If you find that yelping alone doesn't work, you can switch to a time-out procedure. Time-outs are often very effective for curbing mouthing in puppies. When your puppy delivers a hard bite, yelp loudly. Then, when he startles and turns to look at you or looks around, remove your hand. Either ignore him for 10 to 20 seconds or, if he starts mouthing on you again, get up and move away for 10 to 20 seconds. After the short time-out, return to your puppy and encourage him to play with you again. It's important to teach him that gentle play continues, but painful play stops. Play with your puppy until he bites hard again. When he does, repeat the sequence above. When your puppy isn't delivering really hard bites anymore, you can tighten up your rules a little. Require your puppy to be even gentler. Yelp and stop play in response to moderately hard bites. Persist with this process of yelping and then ignoring your puppy or giving him a time-out for his hardest bites. As those disappear, do the same for his next-hardest bites, and so on, until your puppy can play with your hands very gently, controlling the force of his mouthing so that you feel little or no pressure at all.
What to Do Next: Teach Your Puppy That Teeth Don't Belong on Human Skin

Substitute a toy or chew bone when your puppy tries to gnaw on fingers or toes.

Puppies often mouth on people's hands when stroked, patted and scratched (unless they're sleepy or distracted). If your puppy gets all riled up when you pet him, distract him by feeding him small treats from your other hand. This will help your puppy get used to being touched without mouthing.

Encourage noncontact forms of play, such as fetch and tug-of-war, rather than wrestling and rough play with your hands. Once your puppy can play tug safely, keep tug toys in your pocket or have them easily accessible. If he starts to mouth you, you can immediately redirect him to the tug toy. Ideally, he'll start to anticipate and look for a toy when he feels like mouthing.

If your puppy bites at your feet and ankles, carry his favorite tug toy in your pocket. Whenever he ambushes you, instantly stop moving your feet. Take out the tug toy and wave it enticingly. When your puppy grabs the toy, start moving again. If you don't happen to have the toy available, just freeze and wait for your puppy to stop mouthing you. The second he stops, praise and get a toy to reward him. Repeat these steps until your puppy gets used to watching you move around without going after your feet or ankles.

Provide plenty of interesting and new toys so that your puppy will play with them instead of gnawing on you or your clothing.

Provide plenty of opportunities for your puppy to play with other puppies and with friendly, vaccinated adult dogs. Playing and socializing with dog buddies is important for your puppy's development-and if he expends a lot of his energy playing with other puppies, he'll feel less motivated to play roughly with you. Consider enrolling your puppy in a good puppy class, where he can have supervised playtime with other puppies and learn some important new skills! Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) in your area who offers puppy classes.

Use a time-out procedure, just like the one described above-but change the rules a little. Instead of giving your puppy time-outs for hard biting, start to give him time-outs every time you feel his teeth touch your skin.

The instant you feel your puppy's teeth touch you, give a high-pitched yelp. Then immediately walk away from him. Ignore him for 30 to 60 seconds. If your puppy follows you or continues to bite and nip at you, leave the room for 30 to 60 seconds. (Be sure that the room is "puppy-proofed" before you leave your puppy alone in it. Don't leave him in an area with things he might destroy or things that might hurt him.) After the brief time-out, return to the room and calmly resume whatever you were doing with your puppy.

Alternatively, you can keep a leash attached to your puppy during time-out training and let it drag on the floor when you're there to supervise him. Then, instead of leaving the room when your puppy mouths you, you can take hold of his leash and lead him to a quiet area, tether him, and turn your back to him for the brief time-out. Then untie him and resume whatever you were doing.

If a time-out isn't viable or effective, consider using a taste deterrent. Spray areas of your body and clothing that your puppy likes to mouth before you start interacting with him. If he mouths you or your clothing, stop moving and wait for him to react to the bad taste of the deterrent. Praise him lavishly when he lets go of you. Apply the bad taste to your body and clothes for at least two weeks. After two weeks of being punished by the bitter taste every time he mouths you, your puppy will likely learn to inhibit his mouthy behavior.

Be patient and understanding. Playful mouthing is normal behavior for a puppy or young dog.

Because mouthing issues can be challenging to work with, don't hesitate to enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT). A CPDT will offer group or private classes that can give you and your dog lots of assistance with mouthing.Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a CPDT in your area.

General Precautions

Avoid waving your fingers or toes in your puppy's face or slapping the sides of his face to entice him to play. Doing these things can actually encourage your puppy to bite your hands and feet.

Do not discourage your puppy from playing with you in general. Play builds a strong bond between a dog and his human family. You want to teach your puppy to play gently, rather than not at all.

Avoid jerking your hands or feet away from your puppy when he mouths. This will encourage him to jump forward and grab at you. It's much more effective to let your hands or feet go limp so that they aren't much fun to play with.

Slapping or hitting puppies for playful mouthing can cause them to bite harder. They usually react by playing more aggressively. Physical punishment can also make your puppy afraid of you-and it can even cause real aggression. Avoid scruff shaking, whacking your puppy on the nose, sticking your fingers down his throat and all other punishments that might hurt or scare him.

When Does Mouthing Become Aggression?

Most puppy mouthing is normal behavior. However, some puppies bite out of fear or frustration, and this type of biting can signal problems with future aggression.

Puppy "Temper Tantrums"
Puppies sometimes have temper tantrums. Usually tantrums happen when you're making a puppy do something he doesn't like. Something as benign as simply holding your puppy still or handling his body might upset him. Tantrums can also happen when play escalates. (Even human "puppies" can have tantrums during play when they get overexcited or upset)! A puppy temper tantrum is more serious than playful mouthing, but it isn't always easy to tell the difference between the two. In most cases, a playful puppy will have a relaxed body and face. His muzzle might look wrinkled, but you won't see a lot of tension in his facial muscles. If your puppy has a temper tantrum, his body might look very stiff or frozen. He might pull his lips back to expose his teeth or growl. Almost always, his bites will be much more painful than normal mouthing during play.

If you're holding or handling your puppy and he starts to throw a temper tantrum, avoid yelping like you're hurt. Doing that might actually cause your puppy to continue or intensify his aggressive behavior. Instead, be very calm and unemotional. Don't hurt your puppy, but continue to hold him firmly without constriction, if possible, until he stops struggling. After he's quieted down for just a second or two, let him go. Then make plans to contact a qualified professional for help. Repeated bouts of biting in frustration are not something that the puppy will simply grow out of, so your puppy's behavior should be assessed and resolved as soon as possible.

When and Where to Get Help
A trained professional can help you determine whether or not your puppy's mouthing is normal, and she or he can guide you through an effective treatment plan. If you suspect that your puppy's biting fits the description of aggressive or fearful behavior, please seek consultation with a qualified professional, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior (Dip ACVB). If you can't find a behaviorist in your area, you can seek help from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT)-but be sure to determine whether she or he has professional training and experience in successfully treating fear and aggression problems, as this expertise isn't required for CPDT certification. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate one of these professionals in your area.

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While it is normal for puppies to bite, chew and mouth on peoples' hands, it is not a habit that should be carried over into your dog's adult life. Follow these steps to train your puppy so he'll stop biting and will learn to be gentle.

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This method in dealing with puppy mouthing involves a change of correction and a change in play in order to reduce the mouthing. Set aside time for this particular training!

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Weird Punishments and Rough Play are Turning This Puppy Aggressive |  It's Me or The Dog

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Begging at the table and Conter Surfing (Teaching "Place")

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Begging at the table and Conter Surfing (Teaching "Place")

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Can Stains 'The Cupcake Dog' Resist a Plate of Cupcakes? | It's Me or The Dog

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How to Stop Your Dog Jumping Up at the Table | It's Me or the Dog

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Training Jumping on yourself and others!

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Training Jumping on yourself and others!

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This is a fantastic video that tackles the issue of your dog jumping on you and other people! Very well said and you can visually see the training working right on the spot!

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How to Stop Your Dog Jumping Up at the Table | It's Me or the Dog

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Food Dispensing Toys and other puzzle toys 

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Food Dispensing Toys and other puzzle toys 

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If you're not using treat-dispensing toys with your dog, you're missing out on one of the greatest training inventions of the last 100 years - seriously!

These wonderful tools and toys can help you with a long list of dog-training and -management challenges, including boredom-busting, excessively fast eating, high-energy consumption, building mental skills, counter-conditioning, redirecting inappropriate behavior, and much more.

In the mid-1980s, when I acquired my first Australian Kelpie, food-stuffed toys were an unknown. A tennis ball was "the thing" - and Keli, my Kelpie, was quite addicted to hers. Then we discovered the Kong. Still perceived primarily as a fetch toy in those days, the hollow, snowman-shaped, hard, rubber toy delighted my dog with its high-flying unpredictable bounces. Almost as good as herding sheep! She switched her allegiance from ball to Kong.

Then one day Jean Donaldson - dog trainer, founder of the Academy for Dog Trainers, and book author extraordinaire, suggested stuffing treats in the Kong's hollow interior in order to entertain otherwise bored dogs. The food-dispensing dog-toy revolution was on.

The market has expanded since those early days when the Kong Company pretty much had a food-toy monopoly. Or should I say exploded? Today your options include an almost endless variety of products that contain food that will entice and challenge your dog. These products encourage him to chew, lick, nudge, paw, and toss in order to find and reach the food.

We still love the basic Kong toy, as well as the variety of other toys made by Kong. But we have to admit, we also love many of Kong's competitors in the food-stuffable toy category. In fact, there are so many it's hard to even have favorites anymore! But at a minimum, we think you should be aware of how many options are available to you and your dog today, so you can select the ones that are best suited to your own dog's needs and wants.

Snuffle Mats

It's a simple concept: short pieces of fleece tied onto a flat plastic or rubber frame, creating a tufted surface, ideal for scattering or hiding kibble or treats. Originally, the snuffle mat was a takeoff on the idea of scattering a dog's food in some grass, so it would take him a while to find and eat his meal.

When I first heard of snuffle mats, they were a do-it-yourself project. Not long after, I started seeing mats made by individuals and sold in a small cottage industry, and not long after that, the concept became quite commercialized. While you can still easily make a snuffle mat for your dog, you can also purchase several creative variations, with rubbery fingers instead of fleece tufts, fleece tufts of varying lengths and patterns, and activity mats that include pockets and other treat-finding challenges in addition to the tufts and fingers.

These mats can serve several different purposes. They are perfect for dogs who eat too quickly and are at constant risk of choking on a bowlful of unchewed food or inhaling bits of their food. Sniffing out and retrieving bits of food from the many mat crevices is guaranteed to slow down the most ravenous speed-eater.

Snuffle mats are also useful for keeping your dog occupied during events when she might otherwise get fussy. My dog Kai's snuffle mat was a godsend while he impatiently waited his turn at agility class. The mat kept him calmly and happily searching for treats instead of barking from frustration and arousal at the sight of other dogs running the course.

The mats also may be used to keep your dog from getting bored when left alone (not recommended for a persistent or aggressive chewer!). Just load the mat, set it down for her in her "home-alone" space, and you're good to go.

Some dogs, especially the gentler, less assertive ones, need a little help learning how to use the mat. You may need to start by dropping treats on top, rather than burying them deep in the mat. As your dog gets the idea, you can start pushing treats deeper and deeper into the tufts, until your dog really has to work to get them.

Benefits

Toss in the washing machine when they start getting sticky, stinky, or moldy; many can also be put in the dryer.

The dog gets to use her sense of smell, touch, and taste to find food.

Caution

Dogs can chew these up (and ingest them!). Do not leave your dog alone with a snuffle mat if she's an aggressive chewer and/or prone to ingesting non-food items.

Whole Dog Journal-Approved Snuffle Mats

Darkyazi Snuffle Mat/Nosework Blanket, $31

Paw5's Wooly Snuffle Mat, $40, (215) 383-1654

Petvins Dog Feeding Snuffle Mat, $37

SNiFFiz Smelly Matty, $55
Good instructions for a make-it-yourself snuffle mat
Fill-with-Food Toys to Lick and Chew

The snowman-shaped Kong toy is still around, of course, and is still a great choice for stuffing food into, as well as a fetch toy. While not indestructible, the black Kongs are very tough and a wise choice for the aggressive chewer. In fact, I still have the original black Kong that Keli happily chased some 30-plus years ago. It's a little worse for wear, but it's still here!

In addition to the classic red and black Kongs, the Kong Company also offers "puppy" Kongs in pink and blue that are a little softer and easier to chew.

Between Kong Company and their competitors (including Busy Buddy, Idepet, Trixie, and others), there is an almost endless list of food-stuffable toys of various shapes, colors, sizes, and materials. Some are grooved, inviting your dog to lick squeeze cheese or peanut butter from the grooves. Some are hollow, encouraging chewing more than licking. You can stuff your dog's entire meal into a few hollow toys, and even freeze them, to slow down the fast eater and keep the bored dog occupied for a longer time. Our freezers almost always contain a few!

Benefits

Most are dishwasher safe.

Wide variety of products; novel products will keep your dog engaged.

Cautions

Some dogs have little interest in actively chewing to access treats and food. You may have to encourage yours, or choose a different type of food toy.

Dogs can chew these up (and ingest them!). Either select super-tough toys specifically designed for aggressive chewers or do not leave your dog alone with her food-stuffed toy if she's an aggressive chewer.

Whole Dog Journal-Approved Fill-with-Food Toys

Idepet Dog Toy Ball, $9

Kibble-Dribbling Toys

I call these products "push toys," because dogs need to push and roll them around in order to get kibble to fall out of them. What they all have in common is a compartment that you can fill with kibble or other small, hard treats, and a hole for the treats to spill out off, provided the dog rolls it over and over.

The first product like this that I ever saw was the Buster Cube - a hard plastic cube with rounded corners and a hole on one side for the treats to spill out of. Omega Paw's Tricky Treat Ball was similar, but made of a softer vinyl material that didn't make such an ungodly racket as a dog rolled and bashed it around, making the food fall out a piece or two at a time.

Today, there are many variations of these kibble-dribbling toys, including those original products. Look for products that won't spill all the goods too quickly, but aren't so difficult to get food out of that your dog gives up in frustration. Another nice feature is the ability to open the toy in order to empty it completely every so often; you don't want pieces of kibble to get stuck inside, grow moldy, and only then fall out and be eaten by your dog.

Kong came out with a product that we like a lot: the Kong Wobbler, which is shaped like the original Kong, but made of two hard plastic halves that screw together, making it incredibly easy to load with kibble or treats and open afterward for cleaning. The bottom half is weighted so that the toy rights itself after each push, which increases the interactive nature of the toy and makes it a bit more engaging than some of the other push toys. Our pot-bellied pig, Dexter, happily eats part of his meal from a Kong Wobbler!

Note that, depending on the level of difficulty, your dog may need to be taught how to use these toys. Roll or push it over several times so she can see the treat fall out (and eat it) each time. Encourage her to use her nose and/or paws to engage the toy until she realizes that she can make the treats appear.

Benefits

More interactive than most of these other products; playful dogs will particularly enjoy these.

Cautions

Because these toys are meant to be pushed or pawed around in order to dispense the treats, they are not necessarily able to withstand chewing (unlike the products mentioned in the previous category, which are designed to give up their food stuffing by being licked and chewed). These products would not be appropriate for dogs whose go-to tactic is to try to chew the food out of the toy. Dedicated chewers can damage, chew, and ingest pieces of these toys if they are so inclined.

Be aware! These toys can be very noisy, especially on hard floors.

Whole Dog Journal-Approved Kibble-Dribblers

Slow-Feeder Bowls

In contrast to the push-around toys, these products are designed to be stationary - though they, too, are meant to slow down speed eaters. Slow feeding is believed to decrease the potential for life-threatening choking or bloat, a not-uncommon problem in dogs who inhale their meals.

These products are usually grooved or have pegs in the bowl, requiring the dog to use her tongue to reach the food. They are often weighted and/or equipped with non-skid feet and a wide base to minimize spillage. They may not be quite as challenging as some of the other food-toy products, though this makes them a good choice for dogs who get easily discouraged and stop trying to get treats from the more difficult designs.

Benefits

These products work equally well for feeding dry food, wet food, raw frozen, or home-prepared.

Most are dishwasher-safe.

Cautions

The grooves in some designs can make these bowls difficult to wash without a dishwasher.

Most of these products are made for larger dogs; fewer models are available for small dogs.

Whole Dog Journal-Approved Slow Feeders

Neater Pets' Slow Feeder, $27. (877) 917-7387

Licky-Sticky Things

Compared to some of the other food-dispensing toys, "licky-sticky" is a relatively new concept. This category describes products that are meant to be filled with a type of food that the dog can remove only by determined and prolonged licking, such as peanut butter, cream cheese, yogurt, baby food, or a pt-type canned food - and that are designed to be affixed to a stationary position (usually with suction cups).

Prior to the invention of these products, I've suggested to clients that they just smear cheese or peanut butter on the refrigerator door or shower wall. I can see how some might prefer this alternative!

The thing I like best about these is that they can keep your dog relatively immobile, happily occupied, and licking/eating, while you attend to a husbandry task that requires two hands, such as buckling a muzzle, bathing, grooming, taking a temperature, etc. That's so useful that I actually squealed with delight the first time I saw one!

Benefits

Because the dog can't carry them off to enjoy in private, these are great for keeping him in one spot, without force or restraint.

The dog's enjoyment of delicious treats may classically condition him to associate grooming (or whatever you are doing to him while he licks the food) with good things, making him more happier to cooperate and participate.

Cautions

These products may not be a good choice for a dog who has food-guarding behavior, unless and until behavior modification has been done.

If your dog is prone to chewing up toys, don't leave him unattended with any of these products. Most are flexible and not durable, as they are meant for licking, not chewing.

Whole Dog Journal-Approved Licky-Sticky Things

Chase 'N Chomp's Sticky Bone, $15.

Helpcook Dog Lick Pad, $13.

Hyper Pet's Lickimat Dog Mat, $6-$10.

Hyper Pet's Lickimat Dog Soother, $5 for creamier treats.

Interactive Toys and Dog "Puzzles"

Interactive toys have become very popular since they first appeared a decade or so ago - and with good reason. They make a dog work for her treats, with her brain as well as her body! Brain games are incredibly useful for keeping dogs mentally as well as physically healthy.

Swedish dog-toy designer Nina Ottosson started developing her line of interactive toys in 1990. Today, there are dozens of her products on the market, as well as many from other designers. Some are clear-cut imitators, others are quite innovative and original. All are guaranteed to provide dogs with fun and stimulation.

Benefits

These are fun for all dogs, but especially useful for helping to entertain and occupy senior, handicapped, or rehabilitating dogs who need to be kept calm.

Because most of these were designed to have the human interacting with the dog as the dog interacts with the toy, they are also good for relationship-building.

Cautions

Some of these interactive toy puzzles are quite complex and challenging. Your dog may need some assistance, at least at first, to help her succeed and learn, and avoid frustration. Start with simpler toys and work up to the more challenging ones once she understands how the games are played.

The early Nina Ottosson toys were made of wood - easily chewed and hard to clean. More recent models are made of plastic; still some have small pieces that your dog can chew up if you are inattentive.

These toys are designed to be used under human supervision. Many of them are easily destroyed if left with your dog unattended.

Whole Dog Journal-Approved Interactive Toys

Electronic Treat Dispensers

Last, but by no means least, is a new generation of computerized electronic food-dispensing toys, giving a whole new look and feel to the treat-dispensing toy market.

The earliest products in this category allowed you use a remote control to release a treat to your dog at a distance from you. Next, they came with timers, so you could release meals or treats at pre-set or random intervals (helpful for preoccupying dogs with separation anxiety or isolation distress). Today, some allow your to dispense treats to (and sometimes, communicate with) your dog from remote locations, via an app on your phone or computer!

Many dog owners and trainers are fascinated with the technology. Some products can be set to beep randomly to signal to your dog that a treat is coming, and some will actually take pictures of your dog as she arrives to eat the treat.

I will confess I'm a technology troglodyte and am pretty intimidated by these products! But I do love the remote treat-dispenser function that allows you to signal to your dog the opportunity for a treat from 50 to 500 feet away, depending on the brand. This type of toy has many helpful applications, such as when visitors arrive, you can use its function to move your dog away from the door (as he runs to get his treats from the machine that you have set up elsewhere). Other training and management applications include situations where you want the dog to go to her bed, move away from begging at the table, stop obsessing over squirrels or UPS trucks outside, and more.

Benefits

Brilliant for engaging dogs who are easily bored when left home alone. Anticipation of random treats can keep the canine brain engaged and out of trouble.

Surveillance features (still camera, one-or two-way audio, video, and/or live-stream monitoring), ease owner anxieties about home-alone dogs, too.

Cautions

The remote treat-dispensing function can potentially cause problems in a multi-dog household, especially if there is competition for resources. Be careful!

Some of the fancier high-tech products require a fair amount of Internet bandwidth to function. If you are on satellite/limited bandwidth, they may not work or be optimal for you.

You do need to be somewhat tech-savvy - or have access to someone who is - to figure some of this stuff out!

These can be quite pricey.

Whole Dog Journal-Approved Electronic Treat Dispensers

Lots to Choose From

As you can see, there are many options for teaching your dog to play with her food. A list of examples of products in each category appears on page 22. Find the ones that are likely to appeal to her - and to you - and get started!
Author Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT‑KA, is WDJ's Training Editor. She live in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.

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The Best Food-Dispensing Toys 2019 - Whole Dog Journal

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If you're not using treat-dispensing toys with your dog, you're missing out on one of the greatest training inventions of the last 100 years - seriously! These wonderful tools and toys can help you with a long list of dog-training and -management challenges, including boredom-busting, excessively fast eating, high-energy consumption, building mental skills, counter-conditioning, redirecting inappropriate behavior, and much more.

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How to TEACH ANY DOG to STOP BARKING Humanely, Effectively, and Naturally!

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How to Teach your Dog to Bark and STOP BARKING!

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Make sure your dog loves their muzzle instead of hate it. A lot of negative associations can be made if the dog ends up hating the muzzle, so take a look at this to see what kind of training you can do with the muzzle to make your dog more comfortable.

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Something to read about and to consider when it comes to anything dog bite related. I think it's important that any dog owner that has a bit of a snappy or even playfully mouthy dog needs to know, as people may take dog bites to the extreme. Always be aware of how you can defend yourself and your dog if anything were to happen.

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Details on when California dog owners could be legally responsible for bites and other injuries caused by their pets.

Whether you own a dog in California or have a claim for a dog bite or other injury, you'll want to understand the state's laws on owners' civil and criminal liability when their animals hurt someone or have been aggressive. Read on for the details.

Laws Change
Because states can change their laws at any time, it's always a good idea to check the current California statutes using this search tool.

When Dog Owners Are Strictly Liable for Bites

California is one of the states with "strict liability" laws that make pet owners responsible for most dog-bite injuries. When the victims sue to get compensation for their damages, it doesn't matter whether the owners knew their dogs had ever been vicious before. That means they can't argue that they didn't know their dogs could be dangerous, or that they took care to prevent the animals from hurting someone.

The law has some limits. The owner is strictly liable only if the injured person:

was bitten, and

was either in a public place or "lawfully in a private place" when the bite happened.

For the purpose of the statute, anyone who's carrying out a legal duty (like delivering mail) is lawfully on private property. Also, injured people can't sue under this statute if they were bitten by police or military dogs that were either doing law enforcement work or defending themselves against annoying or provocative behavior. (Cal. Civil Code § 3342.)

If a dog grabs someone with its teeth but doesn't break the skin, that could still count as a bite. In a case where a worker fell from his ladder after a dog closed its jaws on his pants, the court held that the animal's owner was liable for the injuries under section 3342 ( Johnson v. McMahan, 80 Cal.Rptr.2d 173 (Cal. App. 2d Dist. 1998)).

When Dog Owners Are Careless

California's strict liability statute won't help victims who were injured by dogs that didn't bite them-for instance, when the dogs attacked their bicycle wheel or chased them on a motorcycle and caused an accident. But that doesn't necessarily mean they have no other options. Injured people may able to receive compensation if they can prove that their injuries resulted from the dog owners' negligence. For example, suppose a dog jumps on a child who's playing on the sidewalk and scratches the child's eye. If the victim's parents sue, they must prove that the owner didn't use reasonable care to control the dog, such as by keeping it on a leash or in a fenced-in yard.

California's Laws on Dangerous Dogs

While California's strict liability dog-bite statute applies regardless of the animal's history, another law makes owners responsible for taking "reasonable steps" needed to "remove any danger" of future attacks" when their dogs have bitten someone in the past. Anyone can file a civil case against the owner of a dog who has bitten a human twice (in separate incidents) or the owner of a trained attack dog who has seriously injured someone with even a single bite. The court may order the owner to take steps to prevent future attacks, including removing the dog from the area or having it destroyed. These civil proceedings can't be based on a dog's history of biting trespassers, or on bites by working police or military dogs. (Cal. Civil Code § 3342.5).

California also has a separate legal procedure for controlling dangerous dogs. Animal control or law enforcement officers can file a petition for a hearing when they suspect a dog is a threat. If the court decides that the animal is potentially dangerous or vicious, the owner must meet certain conditions, including keeping the dog indoors, on a secure leash, or in a fenced yard that will keep the animal in and children out. Owners who violate these restrictions may be fined.

A dog is considered potentially dangerous if it has:

forced people to defend themselves from aggressive behavior (while away from the owners' property) in at least two separate incidents during the past three years

bitten someone without being provoked, resulting in an injury that isn't severe; or

killed or injured a domestic animal off the twice in the last three years.

The law considers a dog vicious if:

the animal aggressively injured or killed someone without being provoked, or

a court already determined that it was potentially dangerous and either the owner didn't meet the legal conditions or the dog repeated the dangerous behavior.

(Cal. Food & Agric. Code §§ 31601-31683.)

Dog owners may also face criminal charges when their animals injure someone. The law applies if the owner knew the dog was prone to "mischievous" behavior but didn't keep it under control, and the animal killed or injured someone while it was roaming at large. The crime is a felony if the victim was killed and a "wobbler" (either a misdemeanor or felony) if the victim was only injured. (Cal. Penal Code § 399.)

Both Criminal and Civil Liability?

Even if criminal charges are filed in connection with a dog bite, the injured person may still sue the owner for damages, as long as the civil suit is filed within two years after the injury (Cal. Civ. Proc. Code § 335.1). The time period might be extended in some circumstances. (For details, see our article on when to sue for a dog bite.)

Defenses in Dog-Bite Lawsuits

Dog owners may have one or more legal defenses in civil lawsuits over injuries caused by their animals. For instance, they might argue that the victims:

were trespassing at the time of the injury

were partly at fault for the incident (which would reduce any compensation they receive under California's "comparative negligence" rule), or

voluntarily took a risk of injury.

A different set of defenses may apply in criminal charges resulting from dog bites.

Speaking with a Lawyer

If someone is suing you over a dog bite or other injury that your dog supposedly caused, you should consider speaking with a personal injury lawyer. An attorney experienced in this area can explain how California's law applies to your situation and what defenses you might have. If you're dealing with a civil complaint over a dangerous dog or a court order to destroy your pet, you might want to consult with an animal law attorney. And finally, a criminal defense lawyer can help protect your rights if you're facing criminal charges over a dog bite or other injury.

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Details on when California dog owners could be legally responsible for bites and other injuries caused by their pets. Whether you own a dog in California or have a claim for a dog bite or other injury, you'll want to understand the state's laws on owners' civil and criminal liability when their animals hurt someone or have been aggressive.

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If you are uncertain about whether or not your dog will bite another dog or human you MUST take every precaution to prevent that, and that includes muzzling your dog. If you have to muzzle your dog outside on a walk, PLEASE USE A BASKET MUZZLE. This muzzle will keep the dog from biting other dogs or people, but also allows them to pant, drink water, take treats, bark, vomit, etc. By clamping the muzzle shut with other muzzles,, you may induce quite a bit of anxiety with your dog, and that may worsten their already negative association with other dogs and people.

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Description

The Baskerville Ultra Dog Muzzle comes to the rescue when dogs are just a little too stressed or excited. This doggy muzzle has a flexible fit for wider noses and a small convenient opening so your pup can eat while it's on. This muzzle does double duty by protecting other pets and people from bites while maintaining the welfare and happiness of your dog. It has ergonomically designed safety strapping and two additional points of secure attachment to ensure the muzzle stays doesn't fall off. The over-head strap is completely removable if desired and the muzzle also has a loop at the bottom for your dog's collar. Finally, the metal buckle has pre-holed webbing, which means it's fully adjustable for a quick and easy fit.
Key Benefits

Soft and lightweight for a comfortable fit and has a treat-friendly design so you can feed your dog while he's wearing his muzzle.

Tough and durable malleable thermal plastic rubber provides protection and can even be heated with hot water and shaped for a customized fit.

Great for behavior modification programs.

Ergonomically designed safety strapping keeps the muzzle secure and features two points of attachment, a loop for your dog's collar and a removable over-head safety strap.

Fully adjustable head and neck straps with added comfort from neoprene padded lining.

What's Included
Optional removable over-head safety strap.

See all items by Baskerville

Instructions

1. Secure loop attaches to your dogs regular collar.

2. Soft neoprene padding for extra support.

3. Overhead strap connects directly to the rear strap.

4. Allows panting, drinking and treating.

Size

Length Measurement: Measure the distance from the tip of the nose to the base of the nose just below the eyes.

Width Measurement: Measure around the circumference of the widest part of the muzzle, usually just below the eyes.

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Baskerville Ultra Dog Muzzle, Black, Size 1 - Chewy.com

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Description The Baskerville Ultra Dog Muzzle comes to the rescue when dogs are just a little too stressed or excited. This doggy muzzle has a flexible fit for wider noses and a small convenient opening so your pup can eat while it's on.

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This harness just says "In Trainig" so you are not posing your dog as a service dog or therapy dog at all, however, if you have a reactive dog and you are working on training with them, it'll be easier to explain to others that your dog is currently in training for reactive behavior and should not be approached. Generally,, I've seen people take a look at this "In training" vest and move on without bothering you or asking questions, so I recommend this if you want to make sure people and their dogs keep their distance during your training.

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One thing that I disagree with is the use of the tug plus a firm "no", because that could add a negative connotation to the experience with other dogs. Instead, you can pair the slight tug with some encouragement and happy sounds. Now what causes them react means play time and lots of love and attention from mom or dad.

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Stop Your Dog's Reactive Behavior On-Leash

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Snuffle Mats are absolutely amazing! Definitely look into either buying or making one of these to keep your dog occupied

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Snuffle mats are some dogs' favorite toys: perfect for brain games and giving treats.

When I get the snuffle mat out of the cupboard where I keep the dog supplies both of my dogs, Bones and Hero, come to attention. The snuffle mat is one of their favorite things aside from perhaps their food bowls. Even chew toys suffer in comparison to the snuffle mat.

What is a Snuffle Matt?

A snuffle mat is a brain game made from a rubber sink mat with fleece strips knotted through the holes of the mat. You can make one yourself quite inexpensively as the only things needed are the sink mat and the fleece material. You can also purchase them already made, but since they do take a couple of hours to make you will pay more for one made by someone else. If you'd like to make your own, here are some step-by-step instructions.

The mat by itself is strange looking (all those loose pieces of fleece) but your dog doesn't care about those. What gets his interest are all the bits of treats or food that you will hide among the pieces of fleece.

Use some tasty treats with a good smell. The odor is especially important as your dog is learning the game. His sense of smell is great, but an appealing odor will provide motivation for him to search. You can use any of The Honest Kitchen's small, bite-sized treats but I prefer to use the Wishes fish filet treats. Even though these are made for cats, they make great snuffle mat treats as they are easily broken and have a great smell that attracts dogs.

It's All About the Nose

Your dog's sense of smell is his most important sense. Dogs prefer to investigate their world using their sense of smell, so it's easy to see why dogs love the snuffle mat so much. As he sniffs for the hidden treats or food and then eats them, well, in your dog's mind life doesn't get much better than that.

If your dog likes to use his sense of smell, this game is going to be incredibly satisfying for him. Since we often ask our dogs to cooperate with us, especially in regards to household and social rules, it's great to have a game that's about making him happy.

Find it is Great Fun

When you encourage your dog to find the treats in the snuffle mat, use a word or phrase that will come to mean, 'hunt for something.' Initially he'll be hunting for those treats hidden in the snuffle mat.

Later, though, you can use that word or phrase, such as 'Find it,' to mean 'hunt for other things,' too. Perhaps you can send your dog after your kids or help you find the family cat. You can teach him to find his toys by name. The concept of finding those hidden treats can be the foundation for many other things, from tricks to useful actions.

Sneak in Some Obedience

A common phrase used by dog trainers is, "Dogs repeat actions that are rewarding to them." Since hunting for treats in the snuffle mat is such a wonderful game, use that to reward an obedience exercise or two.

For example, once the snuffle mat is loaded with treats hidden among the fleece strips, ask your dog to sit and stay. Place the snuffle mat on the floor. Then go back to your dog, praise him, and release him from the stay. Encourage him to go find the treats in the snuffle mat.

You can do the same thing with the down stay. Or ask him to do a trick or two and use the snuffle mat as a reward for those as well.

Have Fun!

When I bring out the snuffle mat, I don't just load it with treats, give it to my dog, and then walk away. No, I stay close and cheer him on. "Yeah! Good boy! Find some more!"

Both of my dogs love to find treats, so they don't need me to cheer them on-but I want to be a part of their fun! I get to load the treats, give them the mat to search, and then I provide the colorful commentary. That way I'm a part of their fun. I find it great for our relationship-and hey, laughing with my dogs as they enjoy themselves is a wonderful part of dog ownership!

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Why Your Dog Needs a Snuffle Mat | The Honest Kitchen Blog

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When I get the snuffle mat out of the cupboard where I keep the dog supplies both of my dogs, Bones and Hero, come to attention. The snuffle mat is one of their favorite things aside from perhaps their food bowls. Even chew toys suffer in comparison to the snuffle mat.

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It's Me or the Dog: Severe Separation Anxiety and working on Independence Training

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It's Me or the Dog: Severe Separation Anxiety and working on Independence Training

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This is one of the most severe cases of Separation Anxiety that you probably will ever see. This is an older dog so this has developed over an extended period of time. In the first part of the video, she is using "Stay" to work with this: Puppy 1 class you don't work on stay until later in the class, so I advise you use a different tactic, Puppy 2 you are welcome to try this! ***The first 8 minutes shows you the extent of this separation anxiety, the training starts later around 8:30-9 if you want to see how she trains it!

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Get in your cage song (*Warning: There are some explicits in this song!)

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Get in your cage song (*Warning: There are some explicits in this song!)

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They say not to make a big deal when you leave to help your dog deal with separation anxiety, but one of the ways you can work with separation anxiety is associating a good thing when it's time to go to their cage or when you have to leave. This was a funny video that floated around twitter for a bit, but I thought it was great because this guy made crating, before he left for the day, fun for all of his animals, and guess what? He treated when they were in their cage! Just something to watch and consider!

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I recommend reading the AKC Article on puppy separation before watching this video! You'll see the tips and training they have mentioned in action in this trainnig demonstration! The first 1:30 is him advertising, you can just skip that for the good stuff!

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What To Do About Your Dog's Separation Anxiety

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I like this article because it explains what separation anxiety looks like in the variety of ways it can be presented. Don't let the definition scare you! This is much more normal than you think, and you can definitely work with it! Remember, high stress equals a high reward, so I often recommend this training with the thing your dog enjoys the most! My favorite methods are "Desensitization and Counter Conditioning" methods. If you feel you need to resort to medication, we sell natural calming supplements at Petco! I swear by these supplements, they're amazing and I've used them myself!

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When you're raising a puppy, there can be a parade of behavioral issues that march through his-and your-life. Separation anxiety (SA) can be one of them. Understanding and recognizing SA will prepare you to do all you can to prevent the condition as well as to address it at the first signs. According to the Tufts Animal Behavior Clinic, although older dogs can develop SA, it usually affects young dogs. So, don't dismiss this as something to worry about later, prevent puppy separation anxiety before it starts.

What is Puppy Separation Anxiety?

Whether in a puppy or an adult dog, separation anxiety is when your dog exhibits extreme stress from the time you leave him alone until you return. The symptoms can vary, but he will act as if he's terrified to be in the house on his own. Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., a zoologist and Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, is known as an SA expert. In her booklet I'll Be Home Soon, she says that although we can't know for sure what's in a dog's mind, we can think of SA as the equivalent of a panic attack.

Here's the good news: As the responsible owner of a new puppy, hopefully, you're already laying the foundation for a well-adjusted, well-behaved dog. Puppy training, socialization, crate training, and teaching your puppy how to enjoy being alone all contribute. Therefore, many of the recommendations here are things you are already doing or have done. That said, SA does present some unique challenges.

What is the Difference Between Separation Anxiety and Normal Canine Behavior?

Separation anxiety is a serious condition, and it goes beyond the occasional mournful whimper when you leave the house or the shredded sock waiting for you upon your return. It's also not the same as boredom, and unlike a little mischief when your dog is left alone, separation anxiety is the result of legitimate stress.

Before labeling destroyed cushions or potty accidents as SA, be sure it's not a case of inadequate training. Does your dog truly understand good manners, even when you're not watching him? Is he 100% potty trained? One of the best ways to see what's really going on in your absence is to audio or videotape your dog's behavior while you're away.

What Are the Signs of Puppy Separation Anxiety?

Dogs can exhibit stress in many ways, so there is no one defining sign of SA. Instead, there are a variety of symptoms. One or two of them, especially if they only happen occasionally, may not be a sign of puppy separation anxiety. But if your puppy shows multiple symptoms on a regular basis, he may be suffering from SA. Here are some behaviors your dog may exhibit:

Anxious behaviors like pacing, whining, or trembling while you're gone or as you prepare to leave.

Excessive barking or howling.

Destructive acts, such as chewing or digging, particularly around doors or windows.

Accidents in the house - urinating or defecating.

Excessive salivation, drooling, or panting.

Desperate and prolonged attempts to escape confinement, potentially ending in serious injury.

Sadly, according to research published in the Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, several of the above symptoms are also some of the most common reasons owners get rid of their dogs. This is especially unfortunate because it's an issue that can be treated by implementing a few simple but important tactics.

What Causes Puppy Separation Anxiety?

It's unclear why some puppies are more prone to separation anxiety than others. McConnell theorizes there may be several reasons, including never previously being left alone and traumatic separation, such as would be seen in some abandoned shelter dogs. Even a single traumatic event in the owner's absence, like the house being robbed, can lead to SA. Finally, she suggests that personality can play a role, with clingy dogs perhaps being more at risk than independent ones.

Other triggers to watch for involve life changes like a sudden switch in schedule, a move to a new house, or the sudden absence of a family member, whether it's a divorce, a death in the family, or a child leaving for college. Recent research has even pointed to a lack of daily exercise as a possible cause. Because there are so many potential triggers for SA, it's essential to work on prevention and start treatment at the first sign.

What Can I Do About Puppy Separation Anxiety?

It's exhausting to come home to destruction and upsetting to see your puppy in such distress. It's even more devastating for your dog. Thankfully, there are several steps you can take to deal with SA. The Tufts Animal Behavior Clinic states the goal of treatment is "to resolve the dog's underlying anxiety by teaching him to enjoy, or at least tolerate, being left alone." So some of the treatments are the same as the preventative measures and may already be part of your puppy's routine. But consider all of them as you tackle SA. Look at the following methods of treatment:

1. It bears repeating that a crate is your dog's friend and your ally. It's an important training tool and the solution for many puppy challenges. It isn't cruel or unhealthy if used appropriately. Instead, it can provide your pup with a safe, quiet place to relax. The trick is to teach him to associate his crate with wonderful things like Crate Training
chew toys and food-releasing puzzle toys so he's happy to spend time inside. Some dogs feel safer and more comfortable in their crate when left alone. However, other dogs can panic. Watch your puppy's behavior to see if he settles right down or if the anxiety symptoms ramp up. Remember, the goal is not to crate your dog all day, every day as a solution to his SA. It's to keep him and your house safe while you teach him to enjoy being alone.

2. Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning
An important part of raising a mentally and physically healthynew puppy is teaching him to be comfortable in the world and to form positive associations with new experiences. That's equally true for time away from you. Teach your puppy that separation has its rewards. Start by leaving him for very short periods of time and gradually lengthen the amount of time you're gone. If your puppy is already conditioned to go into stress mode when he knows you're leaving him, try countering that reaction by using a high-value treat he really loves and that you only bring out for important lessons and rewards. If he gets a special treat right before you leave, he might even begin to look forward to your departure. You can also make your departure routine less distressing by desensitizing your puppy to the signs you're about to go out. For example, pick up your keys or put on your coat then go make dinner rather than heading to the car. Even better, toss your puppy a high-value treat right before you touch your keys or coat. In time, he will look forward to the signs you're about to leave rather than panicking.

3. Exercise can't cure SA, but it certainly can help treat and prevent it. First, make sure your puppy gets plenty of age-appropriate physical exercise. This is especially true for large, high-energy dogs with a lot of it to burn off. A tired, contented dog, who's had a brisk walk and playtime with you, is more likely to settle down when you leave. Second, don't neglect your puppy's mental muscles. Training sessions, puzzle toys, and cognitive games are all good choices. A brain workout can be just as exhausting as a physical one and lots of fun too.

4. Don't encourage overly clingy behavior. Instead, develop independence by teaching your puppy to be on his own in another room even when you're at home. Teaching a solid Clinginess - Playing it Cool
stay is another way to battle excessive attachment. Start with short lengths of time, and once your puppy can stay for several minutes, you can begin to leave the room. Eventually, you should be able to leave his sight while he stays for five or ten minutes. It's also important to play it cool when you leave or return to your home. You can greet your dog with love, but don't get over the top emotional. Keep things calm and without fanfare. If you get worked up, your dog will see your comings and goings as a major event to worry over. Plus, if you return home to damage or accidents, don't punish your dog. You will only add to his anxiety and worsen the problem.

5. Sometimes training and counter-conditioning are not enough. Some vets recommend medication such as amitriptyline, which is used to treat depression, or alprazolam, which is prescribed for anxiety and panic disorders. These require a prescription and are safe for most pets, though you'll need to consult with your vet, and be extra diligent about the use of medication with a young dog. Another option is supplements and homeopathic treatment. Natural products like Bach's Rescue Remedy or valerian might bring your dog relief from SA, or at least smooth the way during your training program. Just be sure to consult with your vet before giving your dog any over the counter products, particularly if he is on prescription medications. Other natural options include dog appeasing pheromone collars or diffusers and compression shirts like Medication and Natural Supplements Thundershirt.

Separation anxiety in puppies and dogs isn't always preventable, despite your best efforts. And once SA has taken hold, it can be a complicated process to treat. Consider working with a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a veterinary behaviorist to help smooth the process. However, as serious as this condition may be, McConnell assures it has a high rate of treatment success. With patience and a positive attitude, you may be able to reduce your dog's suffering and put puppy separation behind you.

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When you're raising a puppy, there can be a parade of behavioral issues that march through his-and your-life. Separation anxiety (SA) can be one of them. Understanding and recognizing SA will prepare you to do all you can to prevent the condition as well as to address it at the first signs.

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Loose Leash Walking out in public with distractions!

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Loose Leash Walking out in public with distractions!

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He's not only using a "watch me" technique, but reinforcing with treats and using training as he works with pulling! Although it's a little different from our curriculum, I dont' see any reason for you not to try any of these methods either!

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How to Train Your Dog to NOT PULL on the Leash!

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What your loose leash walking will eventually look like!

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What your loose leash walking will eventually look like!

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Loose Leash Walking Training - Professional Dog Training Tips

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I have a few clients who can vouch for this toy! It's great! You can get it at Petco!

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Starmark Bumper Body Puzzle Ball Dog Treat Dispenser

Provides hours of mental & physical stimulation

Four inner chambers

Keeps your dog occupied while you're away

Helps prevent destructive boredom behaviors

Soft outer coating prevents slipping & reduces noise during play

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Starmark Bumper Body Puzzle Ball Dog Treat Dispenser | Petco

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Starmark Bumper Body Puzzle Ball Dog Treat Dispenser Provides hours of mental & physical stimulation Four inner chambers Keeps your dog occupied while you're away Helps prevent destructive boredom behaviors Soft outer coating prevents slipping & reduces noise during play

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Only the Best since 1976

We believe dogs need to play. That's why we've worked since 1976 to bring you and your pet the most innovative and safe toys made from the finest materials that will last. From obsessive attention to detail and a relentless pursuit of education, we are dedicated to giving pet parents a way to connect with their dogs.

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Much longer than the worksheet, but absolutely worth the read

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Adrienne is a certified dog trainer, former veterinary assistant, and the author of "Brain Training for Dogs."

Dog Developmental Stages: What Are Fear Periods in Dogs?

Why is Rover suddenly scared of strangers? This is often a question I get from dog owners who have pretty much owned a dog who cared less about being approached by a friendly stranger and now is cowering between the owner's legs.

As I attempt to assess the situation and ask several questions, I place a strong emphasis on the dog's age. Why is that? Not many dog owners are aware of the fact that dogs undergo fear periods during their developmental stages. During these distinct periods, dogs may gradually become more and more fearful of situations they once appeared to be accepting of.

The fear may be manifested by overly cautious behaviors, where the puppy or dog approaches people or items tentatively or defensive behaviors involving barking/lunging/growling. In some cases, dogs may act bold towards certain stimuli and uncertain with others.

However, it is important to note that dogs can become fearful of specific things at any age, and no generalizations can be made. Let's take a look at these fear periods and see how they affect man's best friend.

First Fear Imprint Period: 5 Weeks, Then 8 to 10 Weeks

Puppies go through their very first "fear period" when they are still in the breeder's care at 5 weeks. Scott and Fuller's research has found that puppies at 5 weeks of age demonstrate a strong fear response toward loud noises and novel stimuli, however, overcome these fears through gradual introductions, and if proven non-harmful, over time, they accept them as normal part of their lives.

Most dog owners will never witness this very first fear period considering that most puppies go to their new homes at 8 weeks, so it's worth noting that when referring to the first fear period, it's the one taking place at 8 to 10 weeks as described below.

According to Meghan E. Herron, veterinarian and Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists, this first fear period takes place between the ages of 8 to 10 weeks. During this time, the puppy is very sensitive to traumatic experiences, and a single scary event may be enough to traumatize the puppy and have life-long effects on his future behaviors. The fear can be of a person, dog, or object. A fear period is therefore a stage during which the puppy or dog may be more apt to perceive certain stimuli threatening.

In nature, during this time, puppies are getting out of the den and starting to explore the world around them. This is when puppies would learn under the guidance of their mom, which stimuli are threatening and non-threatening for the purpose of survival. At this stage, once they are fully mobile and outdoors, a lack of caution may cause them to get killed easily, explains Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist Patricia McConnell, in her book "For the Love of a Dog".

Coincidentally, in a domestic setting, this fear period coincides with the time most puppies are separated from their litter mates and moms and are sent to new homes. Some breeders feel that their puppies are better off adopted at a later age. This is why some decide to sell puppies at 12 weeks.

During the first fear period therefore it is important to avoid exposing the puppy to traumatic experiences. Shipping the puppy or allowing the puppy to undergo elective surgeries at this time is not recommended. Veterinarian visits and car visits should be made fun and upbeat. Stimuli and experiences puppies may find as frightening include but are not limited to: vaccines, cold examination tables, taking rectal temperatures, placing the puppy on the scale, nail trims, and being handled by strangers.

How to Make Things Better

Use food to make positive associations!

Have volunteers participate in "mock vet examinations" and use treats

Practice giving "fake vaccinations" with a pen and use treats (for more on this read how to make dogs less fearful of shots)

Make car rides fun!

Have a DAP diffuser plugged in at home when you bring your puppy home for the first time.

Make crate-training fun with toys and treats.

Second Fear Period: 6 to 14 Months

While the 8 to 12 week puppy fear period is in some cases hardly noticed by puppy owners, the second fear period appears to have a much bigger impact. Rover has grown now, and if he is a large breed, he may even weigh 100 pounds or more!

This fear period is believed to be tied to the dog's sexual maturity and growth spurts. This means that in large breeds, it may develop later compared to a smaller dog. Often, this stage is also known as "teenage flakiness," according to Ellen Dodge in her article "Critical Periods in Canine Development," published in the Weimaraner Magazine. October (1989).

In the wild, dogs at this age are allowed to go on hunts with the rest of the pack. At this stage, it is important for them to learn to stick with the pack for safety, but they also need to learn about fear since they need fear for survival purposes. The message to the puppy is to run away if something unfamiliar approaches them.

Reactivity levels rise during this stage, causing the dog to act defensively, become protective and more territorial. Owners often report the fear seems to pop out of nowhere. Dogs appear fearful of novel stimuli or stimuli met before, but that did not trigger significant reactions.

As in the first fear period, it is best to avoid traumatic experiences during this time, such as shipping dogs on a plane and any other overwhelming experience.

Because at this stage the owner may be dealing with a dog barking and lunging and pulling on the leash, this fear period has a bigger impact, causing the owner to worry about the dog's behavior.

How to Make Things Better

Continue socializing as much as possible but without exposing your dog to overwhelming situations

Create positive associations through counter-conditioning

Build confidence through training and confidence building sports and exercises

Avoid traumatic experiences during this delicate phase.

Is There a Third Fear Period?

Clarence Pfaffenberger, the author of The New Knowledge Of Dog Behavior, suggests there is a third fear period taking place in early adulthood. During this time, the level of aggression may increase, and the dog may appear more protective and territorial. Episodes of teenage flakiness may still occur. Some believe there may even be a fourth period as the dog reaches early adulthood, but I couldn't find reliable literature on that.

General Tips for Dealing With Fear Periods

These tips will come handy to help you deal with your pampered pooch's fear periods. However, they also work for dogs who are fearful in general. While they are effective, keep in mind that your dog's tendency for being fearful may be the work of genetics rather than a temporary problem resulting from a fear stage. To learn more about how nature and nurture molds dog behavior, please read: Dog Behavior: Nature versus Nurture Debate. Following are some tips to help your puppy or dog get through these frightening fear periods:

Remain as Calm as Possible

You can lie to your boss, but when it comes to dogs, they are masters in reading our emotions and body language. If you are overly concerned or just a bit tense about your dog acting fearfully or defensively, rest assure your dog will perceive it. Don't put tension on the leash, get tense, or talk to you in a worried manner. Stay relaxed and loose.

Pretend It's No Big Deal

Your dog feeds on your emotions. Just as a mother dog would take her pups out from the den and guide the puppies through threatening and non-threatening situations, manifest to your dog that the stimuli he fears are not a big deal. Some find that saying in a casual tone "It's just a _______(fill in the blank), silly boy!" helps the dog understand it's not a big deal.

Counter-Condition

If your dog acts fearfully towards certain stimuli, you can try to change your dog's emotional response by using treats or anything the dog finds rewarding. The moment your dog sees the threatening stimulus give treats, the moment the threatening stimulus disappears, take the treats away. The same can be done with sounds the dog finds startling, make the sound become a cue that a tasty treat is coming. What if your dog won't take treats? Most likely, the stimulus is too scary, and the dog is over threshold.

Don't Overwhelm, Desensitize!

Work, under the threshold from a distance your dog or puppy does not react fearfully and is able to take treats. If you overwhelm and flood your puppy, you risk sensitizing your puppy, which means you make him more fearful. Don' t force your puppy to interact with the feared stimulus; rather allow him to investigate whatever he fears on his own and remember to praise/reward any initiative your puppy or dog takes!

Socialize, Socialize, Socialize

Fear periods are part of a dog's developmental stages. The more your dog is exposed to stimuli and learns there is nothing to be scared about, the more confident he will be in the future when he will encounter anything intimidating. While the window of opportunity for the puppy socialization phase closes at around 14 to 16 weeks, socialization opportunities should virtually never end.

Don't Punish the Fear

Last but not least, avoid punishing the fear. It appears that the majority of dog aggressive displays are due to fear; therefore, by punishing the behavior, you will be only exacerbating the fear. Ignore the fear and let your dog build confidence by letting him investigate things on his own when he is ready and praising for the effort. Use force-free behavior modification such as desensitization and counterconditioning

While behaviorists have studied fear periods for some time, it is important to keep in mind that they may not occur within that exact time frame for each puppy. If your dog is going through a fear period, keep in mind that it is not the end of the world. With guidance, desensitization, and counter conditioning, your puppy or dog should recover nicely with time.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author's knowledge. It is not meant to substitute for diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription, or formal and individualized advice from a veterinary medical professional. Animals exhibiting signs and symptoms of distress should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.

Questions & Answers

Question:

My dog loved playing with the neighbor kids when he was 4-8 months old. Now he is so scared; shaking, growling, etc. when they are around. Our neighbor kids are not fearful of him even when he is not nice. He is about 18-months-old now. How can I socialize him around children without putting kids at risk of him barking and snapping (which hopefully will never happen..hasn't yet, but just to be sure)?

Answer:

You are right to be concerned. An excellent place to start would be implementing some desensitization and counterconditioning at a safe distance. Perhaps feeding high-value treats when watching kids from behind a window at home or in the car. Then move to the yard safely behind the fence keep him leashed at a distance and keep feeding high-value treats for seeing the kids/hearing them. Afterward, for any closer "socialization" he should always be leashed and at a distance from the kids (under threshold), but because things can get risky here, you really should be working with a professional for safety and correct implementation. If you push him over the threshold, he may regress rather than improve, and things may get more challenging. The more he rehearses fearful behaviors, the more difficult to overcome. I would not expose him to very rowdy or noisy play, as it can stress him out.

Question:

My 14-month old Pitbull puppy is suddenly exhibiting some fear of the vet, for no reason that I can determine. I am now worried about getting her spayed. Should she be given Valium?

Answer:

It may help to take her to happy "vet visits" several times before her spay surgery. Just pop in the office and have the staff feed her treats, then go back home. Make the visit the perk of the day. If you are still concerned, inform the vet. He or she may prescribe sedatives to give before vet appointments if they're deemed necessary.

© 2012 Adrienne Farricelli

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Adrienne is a certified dog trainer, former veterinary assistant, and the author of "Brain Training for Dogs." Why is Rover suddenly scared of strangers? This is often a question I get from dog owners who have pretty much owned a dog who cared less about being approached by a friendly stranger and now is cowering between the owner's legs.