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First view entering the island of Pohnpei Island in Micronesia.

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Basalt rocks were used to build tombs for chiefs and ritual grounds.

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Oral stories of the building of Nan Madol are of great birds and giants moving the basalt rocks while some islands say magic was used by sorcerers Olosohpa and Olosihpa. Canals were built to house a sacred eel fed by high priests. Construction of Nan Madol is estimated at 900 to 1200 C.E. The rocks used to build the breakwaters to protect the sites weighed 50 tons and built to heights of 50 feet.

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In present day, Nan Madol has an estimated 1000 visitors to the island versus Easter Island who receives 5000. The state government and the Nahnmwarki people both claim ownership of the area which proves difficult for any type of restoration. Past attempts by Japan failed as they missed customary practices of bringing gifts to the chiefs and lack of input from current tribes men. A restoration of the island would bring in tourist money to help support the Nahnmwarki. Pohnpei's current population is 30,000.

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Private land ownership are help by the Pohnpeians. This area encompasses a 19 square mile district. The actual owner of the Nan Madol structures and land is still unclear. Hopes are a deal can be made with the Nahnmwarki tribe to allow for development and restoration of the area to bring in revenue for future generations.

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Watch this short clip of National Geographic maps out the wonders of Nan Madol. It is still a mystery on how exactly these structures were built without modern tools.

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Ancient City of Nan Madol | Lost Cities With Albert Lin

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Rufino Mauricio was the only anthropologist given authorization by both the native people and the government to protect and advocate for Nan Madol.

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An anthropologist who served as the director of National Archives, Culture and Historic Preservation for the Federated States of Micronesia has died.

Rufino Mauricio obtained his doctorate in anthropology from the University of Oregon in 1982.

According to a news release from the FSM president's office, Mauricio served as the executive director for the Micronesian Endowment for Historic Preservation from 1994 to 2003; the National Historic Preservation Officer for Archives, Culture and Historic Preservation from 1995 to 2003; the assistant secretary for the Division of Social Affairs from 2003 to 2008; the secretary of the FSM Department of Education from 2011 to 2015; and Director of the Office of National Archives, Culture and Historic Preservation from 2015 to this year.

FSM President David W. Panuelo issued a proclamation in honor of Mauricio on Tuesday, and noted that he "played an elemental role throughout his life in protecting and promoting Nan Madol."

The archaeological site is legally protected by the FSM national government and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016.

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history of the federated states of micronesia

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united nations educational scientific and cultural organization

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Rufino Mauricio, expert, advocate for Nan Madol, dies

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An anthropologist who served as the director of National Archives, Culture and Historic Preservation for the Federated States of Micronesia has died. Rufino Mauricio obtained his doctorate in anthropology from the University of Oregon in 1982.

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Centre, U. N. E. S. C. O. W. H. (n.d.). Nan Madol: Ceremonial centre of eastern micronesia. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1503/

Cuevas/PDN, E. (2022, June 28). Rufino Mauricio, expert, advocate for Nan Madol, dies. guampdn.com. Retrieved September 19, 2022, from https://www.guampdn.com/news/rufino-mauricio-expert-advocate-for-nan-madol-dies/article_1fc039e2-f69c-11ec-964b-57002298280b.html

Lythberg, B. (n.d.). Nan Madol: "In the space between things" . Nan Madol: “In the space between things.” Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.khanacademy.org/humanities/ap-art-history/pacific-apah/micronesia-apah/a/nan-madol-in-the-space-between-things

National Geographic. (2019). Ancient City of Nan Madol | Lost Cities. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fdreKvuqgs.

Pala, C. (2009, November 3). Nan Madol: The city built on coral reefs. Smithsonian.com. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/nan-madol-the-city-built-on-coral-reefs-147288758/

Reich, D. (2022, July 7). New insights into Micronesian migrations discovered by researchers with UH ties. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.hawaii.edu/news/2022/07/07/migration-into-micronesia-research/

U.S. Department of the Interior. (2020, January 6). Nan Madol (U.S. National Park Service). National Parks Service. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.nps.gov/places/nan-madol.htm

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Spanish architecture with Hawaiian State Seal

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Matson Navigation Company breaks ground in 1925 building the Royal Hawaiian Hotel on the area once known as Helumoa. It cost a total of $4 million to build hotel including the 50 year land lease. The inspiration of the building came from Rudolf Valentino movies. Luxury was the focus and only Matson was able to transport these guest over the open Pacific. Consisting of 400 rooms, the hotel had 300 staff members. 800 palm trees lined this 12 acre resort grounds.

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1880 King Kamehameha's house sitting near the future site of The Royal Hawaiian Hotel

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Today the Royal Hawaiian Hotel sits on top of the famous Coconut Grove. This area was once used by King Kamehameha I as a staging ground to conquer and unite the Hawaiian islands. Today it is used as a backdrop for weddings and parties, as well as a daily yoga class starting at 9am for all guests. The land is leased by the Kamehameha School's trust on a 50 year lease. Monies generated from the hotel and neighboring Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center goes towards education for the Hawaiian children as stated in Princess Bernice Puahi's Trust.

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The Royal Hawaiian Hotel has been partnering with The Royal Hawaiian Band and has offered the Coconut Grove as a place for practice and to share their music monthly. The hotel has also reached out to Kamehameha Schools to offer the hotel's historic tour as part of their curriculum. Teaching the children the rich history of the grounds connects everyone to move forward.

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This short clip tells of the oral legend of Helumoa and the now famous Coconut Grove.

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Last month the Royal Hawaiian hotel partnered up with the University of Hawaii to promote small businesses from our alumni. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel has strong ties to the University of Hawaii and collaborates in ways to keep future generations of Hawaii students engaged in opportunities.

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Cohen, S. (1986). The Pink Palace: The Royal Hawaiian Hotel. Pictorial Histories Pub. Co.

Groves, M. (n.d.). Kamehameha Schools Revitalizes one of Waikīkī's Landmarks. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://kaiwakiloumoku.ksbe.edu/article/essays-kamehameha-schools-revitalizes-one-of-waikiikiis-landmarks

Historic Hotels Worldwide. (n.d.). The Royal Hawaiian. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.historichotels.org/us/hotels-resorts/the-royal-hawaiian-a-luxury-collection-resort/history.php

Kauai News. (2022, August 11). Inaugural event showcases UH alumni small businesses; proceeds address food insecurity. Kauai Now. Retrieved September 19, 2022, from https://kauainownews.com/2022/08/14/inaugural-event-showcases-uh-alumni-small-businesses-proceeds-address-food-insecurity/

Paiva, D., Maeda, G., & Allen, K. (2021, March 5). A look back at Hawaii's earliest, most Historic Hotels. A Look Back at Hawaii's Earliest, Most Historic Hotels. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.hawaiimagazine.com/a-look-back-at-hawaiis-earliest-most-historic-hotels/

Pili, K. (2021). The Heart of Waikiki. Khon2 News. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkljqY9R6y0.

Young, P. T. (2019, April 25). Helumoa. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://imagesofoldhawaii.com/helumoa/

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Ariel View of Korolevu and Lower coastal areas

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Drawing of Fiji canoes as European contact was made in 1643 by Dutch Navigator Abel Tasman

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Korolevu was estimated to have been settled before the 1800s. The native language was Cakaudrove but currently has been adapted by neighboring island settlers. The first cheif was Ratu Motonicocoka. Fijian Warriors were known for the brutal strength and navigation skills. Here is picture one such warrior in 1898. In 1916 through the reputation of an elite warrior, Fijian warriors travel to France in WWI via Honolulu to serve as stevedores.

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Fijian warriors heading to France during WWI

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Korolevu was colonized by missionaries in 1835. Today remains to the original village can be found reaching mauka to makai. The village was set up similarly as an ahupuaa in Hawaii. Cultural  practices continue as the heritage of the Fijian people remained high eve trough colonization. In Korolevu the people are highly sustainable and have great social well being.

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The people of Korlevu created a development plan to better interact with the neighboring Fijian islands. Church and heritage festivals bring all classes of people together to show unity and pride for their passed warriors. Education is a key factor in the success of sustainability as the Fujian people refuse to be dependent on any other countries. The mindset of taking care of their own prevents outside influence as other Oceania kingdoms learn first hand.

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This video talks about field research in explaining the native perspective of creation and myths that drove early society. The story as discusses the brutal force of Fijian warriors and the reputation that followed. Yes, Cannibalism is a factor.

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Myths, Legends & Cannibals of the Fiji Islands

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The cave of bones in Korolevu is filled with the bones of Korolevu's passing warriors. During a fierce battle the losing side of the war had to carry their canoe of dead warriors and placed them in the cave where they too perished. Holes on the skull show evidence of clubbing to death.

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At 8am, while the sun's rays were still tolerable and kind, we began a slow ascension to Yacata Island's highest peak - Korolevu.

Here, centuries before the arrival of the white man, tribes set up their first village fortress called Kakabale.

Like other stone forts at the time, it looked formidable and menacing. Kaibu and Vatuvara drifted close by, while Naitauba looked like a pixilated picture on the horizon.

Several generations later, marking one of Fiji's well documented wars, one of Korolevu's caves became the permanent resting place of a huge stock of human bones.

History contends the bones belonged to Tongan warriors who were drafted to join Enele Ma'afu's army during his ambitious military conquest in eastern Fiji.

They were killed on the island.

To bring you the story, The Sunday Times recently visited Yacata, better known as the island home of Sefanaia Sukanaivalu, Fiji's war hero and the only local recipient of the Victoria Cross.

Yacata is also synonymous with the name Laisa Vulakoro, Sukanaivalu's niece and Fiji's most famous female entertainer whose voice has catapulted the local genre of music vude to international heights.

Backed by the sacred blessings of village elders, my small team of three, including Leba Vulakoro and Sairusi Vakaloloma, scaled through mountainside shrubs and thorn-infested mimosa bushes that were unkind to the skin.

We were instructed to travel light. Tipping the scale at 170 kilograms, that meant I had to hike with not too much water and not too much clothes.

On the outskirts of the village, before towering palms start their endless lines into the jungle, we stopped for a photograph near the Tobunimalaria.

Algae-flushed, this stagnant pool greeted us like a pot of green witches brew.

"Our ancestors used to bathe in the pool but they never caught any skin infection. The pool was believed to possess curative qualities," noted Sairusi, the tour guide.

Walking through a foreign bushland can both be exhilarating and intimidating.

That's because nature has a peculiar way of making the outdoors seem unfamiliar, if not terrifying.

What may catch you off guard are the rare sounds of the wilderness, including the highpitched vocals of serenading birds, the hissing sound of bough rubbing against bough and the ghostly whispers of ocean breeze.

Yacata is an island within the province of Cakaudrove somewhere between Taveuni and Vanuabalavu.

Estimated to have been settled well before the 1800s, the island is endowed with caves as well as the world's largest arthropods called coconut crabs or ugavule.

Among the first to arrive on Yacata were its warrior clan followed by a group believed to have migrated from Vuna on Taveuni who now make up the chiefly clan.

The last to arrive were settlers from Qamea and Laucala who today perform the role of herald to the Tui Yacata.

If you stand on Yacata's coastline, Korolevu looks like a hump somewhere in the centre of the island.

At the foothill of this formation is the old settlement of Kakabale.

Today, Korolevu's foothill boasts a number of caves, one of them, perhaps the most famous, is called Qarasui.

The cave is a custodian of bones belonging dead Tongans who were slaughtered by Yacata warriors around the time in history when the battle of Wairiki was fought.

To this day, remains of former village sites and stone forts can be spotted at various locations on the island.

From Korolevu, it is understood people moved down to the sea, places like Samuta, Samulakana and Nacivaciva mark their movements on the island.

Straight after Tobunimalaria, the hill began a subtle rise.

On both sides of the track, plantations made their presence felt with patches of bele, banana and kumala plants.

My team made an unplanned pause before Vunibau, a tall tree that is the official first pit stop for tourists who visit Korolevu to view its cave and bones.

"This is where my ancestors were settled when Christianity first arrived on the island," Sairusi said.

From Vunibau, houses were reduced to miniature homes, arranged neatly around the rara or village green.

According to stories passed down through generations, Qarasui was first deposited with parts of a Tongan sailing canoe and skeletal remains around the mid-1800s.

This was during the reign of Yacata's third chief, Ratu Ilaitia Baleinamoto.

"After convincing many island chiefs in Lau to join in the fight against Tui Cakau, Ma'afu's warlord, Wainiqolo landed on Yacata and requested their support for the battle of Wairiki, Taveuni," said Etuate Vulakoro, a senior member of Yacata's warrior clan, Dakuicake.

Wainiqolo was Ma'afu's right hand man who waged battled against Tui Cakau, whose name was Ratu Golea, while Ma'afu was in Tonga.

"However, our chief told Wainiqolo, "I'm sorry my people and I cannot go to war against our own paramount chief!" Mr Vulakoro said.

"He told Wainiqolo," you go and wage war against Tui Cakau. If you survive, come back and we'll meet."

History tells us the Tongans eventually lost that war. Many were clubbed to death, roasted in lovo pits and eaten.

Some were spared their lives and sent back home to warn their people.

Others escaped northeast, hoping to find favour among the people of Yacata.

However, still exhausted from the Wairiki skirmish, they were massacred as soon they landed.

According to Matai Vulakoro, Etuate's younger brother and a former tour guide to the Korolevu cave those who were slaughtered and eaten were Tongans and some natives who had defected from Tui Cakau.

"They were slaughtered, put in a canoe and their kinsmen who survived were forced to carry them up the mountain to Korolevu," Matai explained.

Many bones including skulls were placed in the cave but only a handful remain today. Some have been removed by visitors to the cave, others scattered by giant ugavule.

After Vunibau, we made another stop under a mango tree above a cave called Qaranilulu.

Here we quenched our throats and snacked on homemade pancakes before moving on.

By 10am, after climbing for almost two hours, we reached the entrance to the cave.

It did not have dropping formations such as stalactites and stalagmites but boasted a sturdy network of banyan roots that shielded the bone grotto from the scotching sun.

One of the adult skull bones still had teeth.

Others had holes in them. Bones that looked like those belonging to the limbs and curved ones of the rib cage had a slight green discolouration, perhaps the result of ageing.

"A hole in the skull means the person was clubbed to death,"Sairusi said.

"I heard there was a huge lovo pit below this cave so there must have been a huge feast at this place a long time ago."

In an earlier interview with this paper, Laisa Vulakoro, said one of her best childhood memories while growing up on Yacata was adventuring with her dad through the forest.

This was during the late 1960s and early 70s.

"My dad took me everywhere with him because he thought I was strong, in fact, stronger than my brothers. I could climb trees and rugged rocks barefooted," Laisa told The Fiji Times.

"We would look for ugavule and dig tivoli (wild yams), and if we were still in the forest by lunchtime, dad would light the fire and he'd tavu a crab and some yams in the open fire while telling me Bible stories."

Laisa's favourite jungle activity was playing with dead people's skeletal remains found in those caves.

"Yacata had a lot of caves that had bones in them. My dad always told me to treat them with respect."

"Coconut crabs would scatter these bones so my job was to put bones together neatly, all the thigh bones, arm bones, and skulls in separate piles. But when we returned the bones would be strewn again by crabs."

Yacata's association with Vuna in the past is evident in their sharing of ancestral god, totemic plant, fish and bird.

In fact, the island was part of the district of Vuna until the end of the war against the Tongans in the 1860s.

To thank the people of Yacata for maintaining their allegiance to Tui Cakau during the Tongans' conquest in Fiji, they were brought under the ambit of the chiefly district of Cakaudrove.

Today the yavusa of Yacata is treated as the guardians to Cakaudrove's chiefl y household.

Islanders are fondly referred to as "qase" or elder.

After the defeat of Wainiqolo at the battle of Wairiki, Tui Cakau displaced all his people who defected and sold their islands as punishment.

Yacata was spared.

Tui Cakau also sold Vanuabalavu but the sale was later reversed.

History being the subject it is, a group's version of events may not be the same as that held by another group. When publishing one account, it is not our intention to cause division or to disrespect other oral traditions. Those with a different version can contact us so we can publish your account of history too - Editor.

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Discovering Fiji: The slaughtered Tongan warriors - A cave of bones

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At 8am, while the sun's rays were still tolerable and kind, we began a slow ascension to Yacata Island's highest peak - Korolevu. Here, centuries before the arrival of the white man, tribes set up their first village fortress called Kakabale. Like other stone forts at the time, it looked formidable and menacing.

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Alamy. Fijian natives Hi-Res Stock Photography and images. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/fijian-natives.html

Goodness, P. (2020, March 8). Myths, Legends & Cannibals of the Fiji Islands . Retrieved September 13, 2022, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Bilo-rnepg

Granger. 0651804 - map: Fiji, 2018. administrative map showing divisions between provinces, 2018. Historic Pictures Archive. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.granger.com/results.asp?search=1&screenwidth=1324&tnresize=200&pixperpage=40&searchtxtkeys=fiji&lstorients=132

Lealea, S. (2015, June 23). Yucata Fiji. History & Geography. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from http://www.yacatafiji.org/p/history-geography.html

Mataiciwa, R. (2021, September). YAVUSA profile: Yavusa Yacata. Retrieved September 13, 2022, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/354827622_THE_YAVUSA_PROFILE_Yavusa_Yacata

Mitchell, J. (2021, March 21). Discovering Fiji: The slaughtered Tongan warriors – a cave of bones. Discovering Fiji: The slaughtered Tongan Warriors – A Cave of Bones. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.fijitimes.com/discovering-fiji-the-slaughtered-tongan-warriors-a-cave-of-bones/

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Ariel View of Marae Taputapuatea

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This short clips introduces the entry port of Marae Taputapuatea by National Geographic. This area is of major religious and cultural events.

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The Te 'Aurere was built in New Zealand and used in 1995 to display the navigational feats Tahiti, Hawaii, and Rarotonga had pre-colonization of Europeans. Taputapuatea was the meeting grounds for chiefs and priests from far away island nations to pay respect to the sacred stones. Chiefs were selected on these grounds as well as the birth place of the Maohi people that connected all life.

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Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies

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Marae Taputapuatea ritual grounds for chief selection

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Marae Taputapuatea is now inducted to the UNESCP World Heritage site where preservation and cultural exchange is sealed for the next generations. To this day voyaging canoes that pass the island stop by and pay respect and ask for safety during their travels. The current native Tahitian people have great pride in their ancestors and practices. The life of the natives is a mix of tourists and sustainable lifestyles.

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To continue the traditions of the past, foreign anthropologists are dedicating their time of retracing the roots of the Tahitian ancestors and preserving the sacred sites. Extraction of fossils and marine life are studied to determine the changes of life surrounding the area due to climate change over the past century. Many artifacts and fossils could be list if ocean tides continue to rise pushing back the opportunities to seek more data of the past for the future.

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This short clip tells of the legend of Taaroa a god of Polynesia.

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Taaroa i Taputapuatea (The Legend Of Taaroa)

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This short clip shows views if the island and the place of rituals and belief of gods that protected and created all of Polynesia. This scared place has the most artifacts of the past in all of Tahiti.

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Britain, D. (2014). Taaroa i Taputapuatea (The Legend Of Taaroa). YouTube. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eRtDAnXDnw.

Centre, U. N. E. S. C. O. W. H. (n.d.). Taputapuātea. UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1529/

Healy, A. (2022, September 1). Marae Taputapuatea: The Sacred Center of Polynesia. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.expeditions.com/expedition-stories/stories/marae-taputapuatea-the-sacred-center-of-polynesia/

Centre Polynesien des Sciences Humaines. (n.d.). Na ‘Ohana holo moana: Gathering of eight voyaging canoes at Taputapuatea, March 1995. Taputapuatea 1995. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://archive.hokulea.com/holokai/1995/taputapuatea_events.html

Salvat, B. S., Maric, T. M., Goepfert, T. G., & Eisenhauer, A. E. (2022, January 1). The Marae of Taputapuātea (Ra'iatea, Society Islands) in 2016: Natu... Journal de la Société des Océanistes. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://journals.openedition.org/jso/11070?lang=en

YouTube. (2017). Taputapuātea-The-cradle-of-the-Polynesian-people. Retrieved September 12, 2022, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXbJXHR8-3g.