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The Propagation Station

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Part of the design committee and 2022 graduates

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Thank you for visiting our booth!

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How to Become a Louisiana Master Gardener

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How to Become a Louisiana Master Gardener

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https://www.lsuagcenter.com/topics/lawn_garden/master%20gardener/program/become-a-lmg

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Due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, a limited number of Louisiana Master Gardener classes are currently offered. Most of the classes are virtual or hybrid (mix of virtual and face-to-face), though some classes may be offered entirely face-to-face.

2022 East Baton Rouge Master Gardener Class

Specific class details are currently being established

Class will likely begin late summer/early fall.

For more information or to be placed on the waiting list, please contact Bert Hammett at AHammett@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Lafayette Parish Master Gardener Class

Classes will be held at the Ira Nelson Horticulture Center.

The Lafayette MG classes will begin mid-August 2022 and meet every Thursday for 12-13 weeks. A fee of $200 and a background check will be required for those who are accepted and choose to enroll in the program.

Note: applications for the 2022 class are currently closed. For more information on the 2023 class, contact the Lafayette LSU AgCenter at 337-291-7090 for an application or refer to the Lafayette Parish Master Gardener Facebook page for an application.

2022 Livingston Parish Master Gardener Program (2022 Fall Class)

Classes will be held at the SELU facility in Walker.

Classes begin on August 17, 2022 and conclude on November 23rd.

For more information, contact class coordinator Clark Robertson atCRobertson@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Grant/LaSalle Master Gardener Classes

Classes will be held at Camp Grant Walker

Orientation Session: August 11, 2022

Classes will be held weekly from 1:00 PM - 4:00 PM.

For more information or to sign up, please contact Keith Hawkins at KHawkins@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Tangipahoa Master Gardener Class

Classes will be held at the LSU AgCenter Tangipahoa Parish Extension Office (305 E. Oak Street, Amite)

First class: August 10, 2022

Classes will be held weekly from 9:00 AM until Noon from August 10th through November 16th

A fee of $185 and a background check will be required for those who are accepted and choose to enroll in the program.

For more information, contact Horticulture Agent Dr. Mary Helen Ferguson by emailing MHFerguson@agcenter.lsu.edu or calling 985-277-1850.

2022 St. Tammany Parish Master Gardener Class

St. Tammany Parish Louisiana Master Gardener Program will hold its annual training starting August 3 and run through November 16. Weekly class meetings will be held at the St. Tammany Parish Extension Office (1301 North Florida St., Covington, LA 70433) from 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM every Wednesday evening. For more information or to be placed on the waiting list, please contact William Afton at WAfton@agcenter.lsu.edu.

2022 Piney Hills Master Gardener Program (Webster and Claiborne Parishes)

Classes will be held at the LSU AgCenter Webster Parish Extension Office

First class: Thursday, July 14, 2022

Classes will be held weekly from 6:00 - 9:00 PM on Thursday evenings

For more information, contact John Monzingo at 318-927-3110 (Claiborne Office) or 318-371-1371 (Webster Office)

2022 Southwest Louisiana Master Gardener Class

Classes will be held at the LSU AgCenter office in Calcasieu Parish, beginning on June 21, 2022. The classes will be held on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 1:00 - 4:00 PM until August 18th.

For more information or to be placed on the waiting list, please contact Robert Turley at RTurley@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Downriver Master Gardener Training Class for St. Bernard and Plaquemines

Classes will be held at Docville Farm - 5124 E. St. Bernard Hwy., Violet, LA 70092

Classes will be held weekly from 9 am - Noon on Thursdays beginning June 16th.

For more information, please contact Anna Timmerman at atimmerman@agcenter.lsu.edu or 312-846-0689 (cell M-F 8am-4:30pm).

2022 Master Gardeners of Greater New Orleans (Jefferson and Orleans Parishes)

Classes will be held at the Garden Study Center in the New Orleans Botanical Garden in City Park.

Classes begin on Tuesday, May 31st and will be held weekly from May 31st through August 9th.

The deadline to submit an application is May 15, 2022.

For more information, please contact Chris Dunaway (Jefferson Parish) at CDunaway@agcenter.lsu.edu or Dr. Joe Willis (Orleans Parish) at JWillis@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Master Gardener Training Program for Natchitoches and Sabine

Classes will be held at the LSU AgCenter Natchitoches Parish Extension Office

First class: May 10, 2022

Application due no later than April 15, 2022

Anyone wanting more information can call the AgCenter office in Natchitoches at 318-357-2224 and ask for the county agent, Randall Mallette.

2022 Northeast Louisiana Master Gardener Program

Classes will be held at the Ouachita Parish Extension Office Auditorium.

Preliminary class: Thursday, May 5th at 6:30 PM

For more information, contact Kerry Heafner (Ouchita Parish Horticulture Agent) at KHeafner@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Cenla Master Gardener Program

Classes will be held at the LSU AgCenter Avoyelles Parish Extension Office

8592 Highway 1, Mansura, LA 71350

First class: Wednesday, April 13, 2022

Classes will be held from 1:00 - 4:00 PM

For more information, contact Mr. Keith Hawkins at KHawkins@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Westside Master Gardener Program (West Baton Rouge and Iberville)

Classes will be held at the LSU AgCenter Office in Iberville Parish

Classes begin on Wednesday, March 30, 2022 at 6:00 PM

Classes will be a combination of online, in-person, and labs

For more information, contact class coordinator Dr. Sara Shields at SRShields@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Livingston Parish Master Gardener Program

Classes will be held at the SELU facility in Walker

Classes begin on Wednesday, February 2, 2022

For more information, contact class coordinator Clark Robertson at CRobertson@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Northwest Louisiana Master Gardener Program

Classes will be held in Shreveport.

Classes begin January 20, 2022

Classes are held on Thursdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. January through March

For more information or to sign up for the 2023 class waiting list, contact Mark Wilson at MAWilson@agcenter.lsu.edu.

2022 La-Terre Master Gardener Program (Lafourche and Terrebonne)

Classes will be held in Raceland

Classes begin on Thursday, January 6, 2022

Classes are held on Tuesdays and Thursdays

For more information, contact class coordinator, Barton Joffrion at BJoffrion@agcenter.lsu.edu

2022 Beauregard Master Gardener Program

Classes will be held at the Rosepine Research Station

Classes begin on Thursday, January 6, 2022

Classes are held on Thursdays from January through March/early April

For more information, contact class coordinator, Keith Hawkins at KHawkins@agcenter.lsu.edu

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Due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, a limited number of Louisiana Master Gardener classes are currently offered. Most of the classes are virtual or hybrid (mix of virtual and face-to-face), though some classes may be offered entirely face-to-face. Specific class details are currently being established Class will likely begin late summer/early fall.

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Propagation Techniques for Selected Plants

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Home Gardening Certificate Course Module 6 - Plant Propagation - Vegetativepdf

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Propagate Your Favorite Plants With Root Cuttings

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https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6970

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Michele R. Warmund
Fruit State Specialist
Division of Plant Sciences

Plant pieces severed from a parent plant and rooted to form new plants are called cuttings. New plants formed from cuttings have the same characteristics as the parent plant. The process of rooting cuttings is simple and inexpensive and requires little labor and equipment.

Types of cuttings

Cuttings of landscape plants are usually made from shoots or stems, but a few may be made from roots. Types of stem cuttings generally used for propagating woody plants are softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood.

Softwood

Softwood cuttings are used for propagating deciduous shrubs such as forsythia and lilac. Softwood cuttings are generally the easiest to root and don't require special handling. They are taken from new growth of the current season, while stems are succulent and not yet woody, but mature enough to break when bent sharply. Avoid young, tender shoots. The best months to take softwood cuttings of shrubs are June and July, though some may be taken in August.

Semi-hardwood

Semi-hardwood cuttings are used to propagate broad-leaved evergreens such as holly, euonymus and azalea. The term semi-hardwood is also sometimes applied to partially matured cuttings of deciduous plants. These cuttings are taken during late summer but made from the current season's growth that has partially matured and is becoming woody.

Hardwood

Hardwood cuttings may be taken from deciduous plants and narrow-leaved evergreens. Cuttings from these plants are taken during the late fall or early winter after a hard frost when the plants have become dormant.

Deciduous plants
Privet, willow, poplar, honeysuckle, grape and spirea are examples of suitable plants for hardwood cuttings. The length of these cuttings may range from 4 to 24 inches, though most are 8 to 10 inches long. Diameter varies from ¼ to 1 inch, depending on the type of material to be propagated.

Narrow-leaved evergreens
Most narrow-leaved evergreens are propagated using hardwood cuttings. These plants include junipers and yews. The cuttings should be taken from terminal shoots of the previous season's growth and should contain a small portion of year-old wood at the base.

Plants suitable for propagating by cuttings

Many plant species can be propagated by cuttings. Table 1 lists some of these plants and indicates the type of cuttings generally used for each.

How to take cuttings

Select cuttings from vigorous, healthy wood, preferably from the upper part of the plant. Avoid excessively vigorous shoots and weak, spindly growth.

Take softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings during cool parts of the day. Cuttings should be 4 to 6 inches long. For best results, make a slanting cut slightly below a node using a sharp, clean knife. Immediately place cuttings in a plastic bag to avoid excessive wilting.

Remove leaves from the lower half of softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings (Figure 1). Dip the base of the cuttings in a rooting hormone for faster and better rooting. Rooting stimulants are generally available in garden supply stores. Follow the label directions when using these products.

Rooting media

The medium used for rooting cuttings must be clean and sterile. Diseases are a frequent cause of poor rooting and may be contracted from containers, tools, workbenches or rooting media that have not been sterilized.

The rooting medium should not contain fertilizer. Begin fertilizing after cuttings are rooted and have been transplanted to a growing medium.

Clean, coarse construction-grade sand may be used for rooting cuttings. Avoid very fine sand because it has poor aeration, which hampers root formation. A mixture of half sand and half peat moss is a better rooting medium.

Vermiculite, a lightweight expanded mica product, is suitable for rooting cuttings. The horticultural grade, grade 2, is the best size to use and may be used separately or mixed with an equal volume of sand.

Perlite is another excellent propagating material. It is lightweight and provides good aeration to the cutting. Perlite gives best results if mixed with an equal volume of peat moss or vermiculite.

Compressed peat pellets that expand when water is added make a convenient propagation medium and container.

Heavy soils should not be used for rooting. They tend to pack tightly, which results in poor aeration and little or no root formation. They also must be thoroughly sterilized to prevent disease development.

Inserting the cutting

Allow as little time as possible between the time the cuttings are taken and when they are inserted into the medium.

Stick each prepared cutting into the medium up to the remaining leaves. Water thoroughly to settle the medium around the base of the cutting.

Care of cuttings

Do not let the propagation medium dry out during rooting, but avoid excessive watering, which results in poor aeration and death of new roots.

High humidity is necessary because cuttings don't have a root system. Low humidity allows wilting, scorch, leaf drop or death.

Enclosures help maintain high humidity. If only a few cuttings are to be rooted, use a miniature greenhouse or place individual pots in large plastic bags (Figure 2). Monitor the plastic bags for condensate, and water the medium when condensate disappears. Never place plastic-enclosed containers in direct sunlight because excessive heat will build up. For rooting large numbers of cuttings, use cold frames, hotbeds or greenhouses.

Care of rooted cuttings

The time necessary to form roots differs greatly between plants. Most woody cuttings, such as forsythia, root in several weeks, but hard-to-root cuttings, such as rhododendron, may take three to four months. Check cuttings occasionally by carefully removing a few from the medium. After cuttings have produced some roots at least 1 inch long, they are ready to be transplanted into a growing medium.

The move from high humidity and moist rooting medium to low humidity and drier soil is crucial. Do it carefully. Watch these new plants closely during the first weeks after the move.

If only a few cuttings have been rooted, pot them in individual containers. Larger quantities should be placed in a well-prepared but protected bed or cold frame outdoors where they can be given special care for two growing seasons.

Some plants, such as azaleas and rhododendrons, require special acid soil, but for most plants a mixture of equal parts good topsoil, sand and peat moss makes a good growing medium. Add about 1 cup of an all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 12-12-12, and two cups of ground limestone to each bushel of mix. Thoroughly mix these into the medium before filling the containers. When no other soil is available, potting soils for houseplants may be used for potting cuttings.

If you use a nursery bed, thoroughly pulverize the soil, and work in 3 to 4 inches of compost, peat moss or leaf mold. Add fertilizer and lime as directed by a soil test.

Install some shade over cuttings during the first growing season. A shade screen can be made from burlap, snow fencing or laths (Figure 3).

Provide protection for young, rooted cuttings during the first winter season. Either mulch them with straw or construct a cold frame around them. Cold frames may be made from concrete blocks or scrap lumber covered with clear plastic, burlap or cheesecloth. If you use plastic, remove it during warm days or cover it with straw to prevent heat buildup.

After two growing seasons in a nursery bed or container, the young plants should be ready to move to permanent locations.

Table 1
Propagation techniques for common garden plants

Figure 1
Trim cuttings and remove leaves from lower half of each cutting.

Figure 2
Miniature greenhouse constructed over a large flower pot for rooting a few cuttings.

Figure 3
Place a shade screen over newly rooted cuttings outdoors.

Layering

Layering

Layering is a method of propagating new plants when seeding, cutting, grafting and other methods are impractical or ineffective. It is the rooting of a new plant while the stem is still attached to the parent plant.

Because an entire branch of the parent plant is often needed to form a single new plant, this method is useful for propagating only a few plants from each parent. For this reason, layering does not lend itself to large-scale commercial production. For home propagation, however, it is a useful and desirable method.

Layering is easy and can be done in the house or garden without any special equipment or structures.

Methods of layering

This section describes four layering methods: simple, air, tip and compound. Table 1 lists plants suitable for layering.

Simple
Simple layering is easiest for the home gardener and may be done whenever a plant has a branch low enough to be pulled down to the ground. Bury the branch several inches deep in the soil, making sure the shoot tip protrudes from the soil (Figure 4A).

Many plants root when a branch is bent sharply upward. However, making a wound or cut on the stem at the point where it curves upward is generally beneficial. To do this, make a slanting cut about 2 inches long either above or below the bend and about 12 inches from the tip (Figure 4B). Dust the wound with a rooting stimulant.

Place the prepared branch or stem into the hole or trench 3 to 4 inches deep, and fasten it down near the point of wounding with a wooden peg or wire wicket. After the branch has been pinned down, bend the tip upward. If the cut was made on the top side, give the branch a half twist to open the wound. A second peg may be necessary to hold the twisted branch in position.

If the branch is stiff, insert a stake next to the shoot to hold the tip in an upright position (Figure 4C). Fill the hole or trench with soil. Mound the soil slightly so the wounded portion of the stem is 4 to 6 inches below the soil surface, then firm the soil.

This type of layering should be done in early spring on dormant 1-year-old shoots. Choose flexible branches that can be bent easily. For some broad-leaved evergreens - such as rhododendron, holly or southern magnolia - layering can be done later in the season after current season's growth has hardened.

Keep the soil around the layer moist at all times, and mulch with straw, leaves or sawdust. The layer may form roots during the first season but should not be cut from the parent plant until the following spring. Some hard-to-root types may take two years to produce roots.

In spring, after the layer is well-rooted, cut off the branch where it enters the soil. Don't disturb the roots of the layer for two to three weeks after the branch has been severed to give the new plant time to recover. Then transplant it to a convenient protected spot or container where it can be tended carefully for one year before being moved to a permanent location.

Air

Air layering is one of the most useful methods of propagation for many houseplants, as well as some garden plants. Air layering is used in situations where the stem of a plant cannot be bent to the soil.

Houseplants such as rubber tree are commonly air layered. Air layering is also useful for many tree and shrub species. This technique involves removing a cylinder of bark, treating the cut surface with rooting powder, and covering the wounded section with moist sphagnum moss enclosed in plastic or foil (Figure 5). The moss should be checked regularly for moisture and the layer removed from the mother plant when roots are evident.

Rather than covering with moss, another approach is to cut a pot in half and reattach the two halves around the wounded stem segment before filling with a rooting mixture.

Plants air layered in the spring that have formed roots during the summer should not be removed until they become dormant. These layers should be placed in a container or cold frame where they will get good winter protection.

Tip
Tip layering is generally limited to raspberries and blackberries. It consists of rooting tips of the current season's growth.

To stimulate more tips, pinch out the top 3 to 4 inches of a cane when it reaches about 2 feet in height. By late August or early September, the new growth will arch down, touch the soil and turn upward. These branches often root without assistance at the point of the curve where they touch the soil.

Rooting can be stimulated in late summer as the drooping canes develop an elongated appearance and leaves become smaller. Pull the tip of such shoots, and insert them in holes 3 to 4 inches deep (Figure 6).

Rooting generally happens quickly, and the plants may be transplanted later in the same season. Plants are more likely to survive, however, when transplanting is delayed until just before growth starts in spring.

Compound
Compound layering is suitable for long vines such as honeysuckle, clematis or wisteria. It requires that the shoot be alternately covered and exposed (Figure 7). The technique is simple layering in multiple, with wounds made on the lower portion of each curve. Cut the branch into segments after rooting has taken place.

Care after rooting

The root systems of newly rooted layers are small relative to the tops. As soon as the newly rooted layers are removed from the parent plant and set in the garden or container, prune them so the leaf area is reduced to about one-third.

Plants outdoors should be shaded lightly during the first season. Suitable shade screens may be made from burlap, lath or snow fencing. After the first winter, the screens can be removed. Enough roots should be developed so that the plants can be moved to a permanent location.

Figure 4
(A) Pull branch down for simple layer.
(B) Make wound or cut at bend.
(C) Stake tip to hold upright.

Figure 5
Steps for air layering a plant.

Figure 6
Tip layers are easy to make on raspberries and blackberries.

Figure 7
Compound layers are suitable for plants with long stems or vines.

Division

One of the most important methods for propagating plants at home is crown division. Herbaceous plants such as chrysanthemum, day lily, peony and iris can be divided using this method. Table 2 lists common plants suitable for division. Some woody shrubs that branch or sucker from the base can also be reproduced using this simple and reliable method.

Plants that flower in spring and early summer should be divided in late summer or fall. Those that flower in summer and fall should be divided in early spring before new growth begins.

For crown division, carefully lift plant clumps and remove some soil from the roots. Then cut the crown into sections with a knife (Figure 8). Individual shoots that contain roots may be used to form new plants, or for a larger plant, several shoots may be left together. For the best chance of success in dividing large old crowns, discard the older center portions, and replant the vigorous young shoots that have developed on the edges of the clump.

Shrubs may be divided in the same manner, but only when plants are dormant. Because shrubs are often woody, they may need to be separated with a shovel or hatchet. Before planting, trim back the shoots and cut off damaged roots. Shrubs that may be divided include red osier dogwood, summersweet clethra, deutzia, euonymus, hydrangea, kerria, spirea and snowberry.

Original author: Ray R. Rothenberger, Department of Horticulture

Figure 8
Plant crowns of many perennials may be cut apart to form new plants.

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Home Propagation of Garden and Landscape Plants

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Plant pieces severed from a parent plant and rooted to form new plants are called cuttings. New plants formed from cuttings have the same characteristics as the parent plant. The process of rooting cuttings is simple and inexpensive and requires little labor and equipment.Types of cuttingsCuttings of landscape plants are usually made from shoots or stems, but a few may be made from roots.

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https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/ym106

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Donna Aufdenberg
Field Specialist in Horticulture
You can grow new plants from cuttings off existing ones. Learn how to take a cutting and create an environment in which it can develop roots in this illustrated two-page guide.
Directions

1. Use a silicon sealant to seal the hole in the bottom of the 2 to 3 inch clay pot. Allow to dry overnight. A cork can also be used to block the hole; the pot must hold water.

2. Fold a paper towel. Place it in the bottom of the plastic pot to block the holes.

3. Fill plastic pot with vermiculite, leaving ½ inch lip at the top.

4. Twist the clay pot into the center of the vermiculite so the top lip sticks up above it.

5. Water the vermiculite thoroughly. Fill the clay pot with water. Because clay is porous, water will seep through into the vermiculite, keeping the moisture even and allowing cuttings to root.

6. Make holes 1-inch apart in the vermiculite with a pencil for the cuttings. Place cut-end of cuttings in the holes.

7. Use a gallon-size bag to cover the forcing pot once you are finished sticking cuttings in the vermiculite. The bag will help to hold moisture and humidity around the cuttings. Take the covering off at least once a day to allow fresh air around cuttings.

8. Keep the clay pot in the center filled with water. Do not allow the cuttings to dray out.

9. The bag can be removed after about 1 to 2 weeks depending on cutting types. If wilting occurs after the bag is removed, put the bag back over the cuttings. The cutting need more time in a high humid environment.

10. Check cuttings weekly by gently removing them and looking for roots. When adequate roots have formed, transplant into a pot or planting container with potting mix.

How to take a cutting

1. Cut a 3 to 4 inch cutting off the growing tip of the plant branch just below a node where a leaf is attached.

2. Remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of the cutting.

3. Insert the cuttings to one-third of their length into the vermiculite. Make sure the cut-end is down and the growing point is up. Do not crowd.

4. Water cutting. Keep cuttings from wilting by covering with a dome or plastic bag.

Cutting edge tips

Use clean containers and cutting tools. Rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water works well for sanitizing.

Use rooting hormone for more difficult to root plants.

Avoid taking cuttings where blooms are occurring on a plant.

Keep plant cuttings cool and moist until inserted in vermiculite. A plastic bag with a wet paper towel may be used to store cuttings. Keep the bag out of the sun.

Additional MU Extension resources

G6560, Home Propagation of Houseplants
G6970, Home Propagation of Garden and Landscape Plants

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This guide is one in a new series of youth gardening activities. See the related publications list for other guides in this series.Donna AufdenbergField Specialist in HorticultureYou can grow new plants from cuttings off existing ones. Learn how to take a cutting and create an environment in which it can develop roots in this illustrated two-page guide.

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https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6971

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Reviewed by David Trinklein
Horticulture Extension State Specialist
Division of Plant Sciences & Technology

Grafting is the act of joining two plants together. The upper part of the graft (the scion) becomes the top of the plant, the lower portion (the understock) becomes the root system or part of the trunk. Although grafting usually refers to joining only two plants, it may be a combination of several. A third plant part added between two others becomes the trunk or a portion of it. This is called an interstem. Multiple grafts may produce an apple tree with several varieties or a rose-of-Sharon shrub with several different colors of flowers.

Why graft?

Some cultivars (varieties) of plants do not come true from seeds. Others are difficult or impossible to reproduce from cuttings or other propagation techniques. Grafting (topworking) is a way to change a large tree from an old to a new variety. It is also a method of using a root system better adapted to soil or climate than that produced naturally by a non-grafted plant. By using special understocks or interstems, grafting is a way to produce dwarf plants.

What are the limitations?

Not all plants can be grafted. Generally, only plants closely related botanically form a good graft union. Grafting is not a means of developing new varieties. The stock and scion must be compatible. Incompatible grafts may not form a union, or the union may be weak. A poor union results in plants that either grow poorly, break off or eventually die.

The compatibility of plants has been determined through many years of trial. There is no other way to determine whether or not two plants will produce a good graft union. This publication will help you make a decision about the possibility.

What can be grafted?

Most varieties of a particular fruit or flowering species are interchangeable and can be grafted. Because of differences in vigor, some are better able to support others as understocks. For example, although a union is possible, sour cherry is not a good understock for sweet cherry. Sweet cherry is more commonly grafted onto Mazzard (Prunus avium) or Mahaleb (P. mahaleb) seedlings.

Plants of the same botanical genus and species can usually be grafted even though they are a different variety. Plants with the same genus but of a different species often can be grafted. But the result may be weak or short-lived, or they may not unite at all.

Plants of different genera are less successfully grafted, although there are some cases where this is possible. For example, quince, genus Cydonia, may be used as a dwarfing rootstock for pear, genus Pyrus.

Plants of different families cannot be grafted successfully. Although it has been reported that relatively short-lived grafts of herbaceous plants of different families have been made, there is no successful practice for commercial or home grafting of woody plants of different families.

It is sometimes believed that two plants can be made into a genetically different plant by the process of grafting. However, there is no basis for this idea. Although there are cases where a different type of shoot develops from the graft union, this is the result of a chimera, a type of mutation. This is not a true intermingling of the genetic structure of two different plants as occurs in seed-produced hybrids.

When is the proper time to graft?

Most grafting is done in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. The best time is after the chance of severe cold has passed but well before hot weather arrives. Scion wood may be collected during the winter. Store it in a cold, moist place at temperatures close to 34 degrees Fahrenheit. At home, a few scions could be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator with moist paper towels, or they could be dipped in paraffin so they retain moisture.

What materials are needed?

Knife
A good-quality carbon-steel knife, able to hold a sharp edge, is the key to grafting success. Although special grafting and budding knives are desirable, you can use almost any good pocketknife. Keep material to sharpen the knife handy.

Grafting wax
After the graft is made, some covering must be used to keep it from drying out. Either hand wax or brush wax may be used. A hand wax is most commonly used for home grafting. It is softened by the heat of the hand and can be easily applied. Heated waxes may be brushed on, but make sure the wax is not too hot. Heat could damage the tender cambial tissue.

Grafting tape
This is a special tape with a cloth backing that decomposes before girdling the plant can occur. Tapes may be used for binding grafts where there is not enough natural pressure. Electrical and masking tapes are also used. Masking tape is suitable where little pressure is required, as in the whip graft.

Budding strips
Budding strips are elastic bands. They look like a wide rubber band that has been cut open. Budding strips secure several types of grafts with small stocks and scions.

Nails
Veneer, bridge and inarching grafts require long, thin nails. Half-inch nails are long enough for most grafts, except for bridge grafting, which may require 3/4-inch nails.

Grafting tool
Specially designed tools have been developed for grafting. The most common one is used for cleft grafting. It has a blade used to split the stub and a wedge to hold the split open while the scions are inserted. If this tool is unavailable, use a heavy knife and a fairly wide wedge, at least 2 inches long, for cleft grafting. Use a mallet or hammer to pound the grafting tool or heavy knife into the stub. Split the stub and insert the wedge to open the split.

What grafting technique should be used?

Grafting techniques can be divided into two basic types, which are largely determined by the size of the understock. In some cases, a graft may be made to join a scion and understock of nearly equal size. The other type attaches a small scion to a much larger understock. In this case, several scions may be attached to the understock as in cleft or bark grafting.

A. Cuts for the whip graft must be smooth and straight.

B. Cut again to form the tongue.

C. Push stock and scion tightly together.

D. Wrap graft to keep cuts tight and to prevent drying.

E. Whip and tongue graft with scion attached to root system.

Grafts with similar scion and understock sizes

Whip graft, bench graft
The whip graft (Figure 1) is fairly easy and heals rapidly. It works best when the stock and scion are of similar diameter, preferably between 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

The stock can be either a plant growing in the field or a dormant bareroot plant as in a bench grafting. The stock should be smooth and straight-grained. Do not graft near a point where side twigs or branches have developed.

The scion should be 1-year-old wood, preferably the same size as the stock. If the stock is larger than the scion, contact can be made on only one side. The scion should never be larger than the stock.

Preparing the stock and scion
For this technique, the cuts made in both stock and scion should match. On both parts, make a smooth sloping cut 1 to 2-1/2 inches long depending on the thickness of the material (Figure 1a). Make the first cut with a single, smooth cut with no waves or whittling. The beginner should practice by cutting extra twigs. A good-quality, sharp knife is essential.

Cutting the stock
The stock may be (for a bench graft) a stem and root system of a young plant or a piece of root. Make a slanting cut about 2 inches from the butt (start of root system) of the young whip.
Although grafts may be made with a simple union of two slanting cuts, the strongest graft results from a whip-and-tongue system. To form the tongue, hold the one-sided, slanting cut facing you and support it with your finger. About one-third down from the tip of this cut, make a downward cut about 1/2 inch long as close to parallel with the grain of the wood as possible (Figure 1b).

Cutting the scion
The cutting procedure should be exactly the same as that for the stock. The only difference is that the cuts are made at the bottom of the scion piece, whereas they were made at the top of the stock. The more similar the cuts on the two pieces, the greater chances of a successful graft union.

Fitting the stock and scion
After the cuts are made on both parts, push them together tightly enough so that the cut surfaces match as closely as possible (Figure 1c). The cambial area (area immediately under the bark) of both pieces must be aligned for a union to develop. If the scion and stock are not the same size, match the cambiums on one side only. The lower tip of the scion should not hang over the stock.

Wrapping the graft
In most cases, it is safer and better to wrap the graft to keep it tight to prevent drying (Figures 1d and 1e). Wrap the graft with a rubber budding strip, grafting tape or a plastic tape such as electrical tape. If the wrapping material does not decay naturally, cut it about a month after growth begins.

Waxing
To prevent the graft union from drying, the area should be waxed. Cover the wrapped area with wax as uniformly as possible. In wrapping and waxing, be careful not to dislodge the aligned cambial areas.

A. Cut stock smoothly. Trim any rough edges with a knife.

B. Split stock, and open with a cleft grafting tool.

C. Make a long, smooth cut to prepare scion.

D. Cut again to make a pie-shaped wedge.

E. Promptly insert scion into stock after cutting.

F. Cambium layers must match closely.

G. A very slight slant can ensure cambial contact.

H. After insertion, wax thoroughly to prevent drying.

I. After the first year, shorten one scion to allow the other to develop.

Grafts with small scions and large understocks

The cleft graft
The cleft graft (Figure 2) is most commonly used to topwork a tree; that is, to change from one variety to another. It can be used on either young or mature trees. Young trees may be cleft grafted on the trunk, while older trees are grafted on branches not more than 2-1/2 inches in diameter. Branches fully exposed to sunlight and in the main stream of sap flow are more successful than those in shaded or inactive areas. Grafts on upright branches grow better than those on horizontal branches.

Preparing the stock
Branches of large trees or the trunk of a small tree must be sawed off to provide a stock for the scions. Select a smooth, knot-free, straight-grained section. Saw the branch off at a right angle to the grain (Figure 2a). Don't tear or split the bark. If the saw cut is not smooth, use a knife to trim off the rough edges. The bark must be tight to form a successful graft. Using a grafting tool, or a heavy knife that may be tapped with a mallet, drive the blade into the stub to split the stock through the center so a split extends about 2 inches into the branch (Figure 2b).

Preparing the scion
The scion for the cleft graft should be made from 1-year-old wood about 1/4 inch in diameter. Usually, it is best to cut the scion long with three buds so it can be inserted with the lowest bud just above the stock. Always note which is top and bottom of a scion stick. A scion will not grow if inserted upside down.
Start below the lowest bud, and make a long, smooth cut toward the base (Figure 2c). The cut should have a surface 1 to 1-1/2 inches long. Turn the scion to the opposite side and make a second smooth cut of the same length so that one side (the side containing the lowest bud) is slightly thicker than the other side (Figure 2d). The wedge that is formed does not need a sharp point; a blunt point is preferable. Do not use more than three buds. If wood is scarce, two buds should give good results.

Inserting the scion
With a grafting chisel or a small wedge, open the crack wide enough to insert the scion easily (Figure 2e). Insert the scion with the thicker side toward the outside with the cambiums in contact (Figure 2f). Although maximum contact is obtained with straight positioning, a slight slant may help ensure contact (Figure 2g). The best contact point is about 1/4 inch below the shoulder of the stock. After properly positioning the scion, remove the wedge or chisel from the slit. The pressure of the stock against the scion should be greatest where the cambiums touch. When the scion is placed in the crack, the cut surface of the scion wedge should be almost entirely hidden.
Two scions are usually inserted in each slit, one at each side. This gives a better chance for getting at least one graft to grow.

Waxing the cleft graft
The cleft graft should be waxed so that all cut surfaces are covered (Figure 2h). Cracks sometimes develop as the wax sets. Check wax after a few days and again after several weeks to ensure that all surfaces are kept covered.

Caring for the graft
After the graft begins to grow, it must also be given attention. During the first season, don't prune branches that grow. Grafts that grow vigorously may need to have the tips pinched out to stimulate branching. Very long shoots may break loose during strong winds. Cleft grafts should grow vigorously and need only light pruning to shape their development (Figure 2i). Never prune heavily.
After the first year, some training and branch selection may be necessary. Do this at the usual pruning time in late winter or early spring. If both scions in a cleft grow, shorten one to allow the other to develop and become dominant. Do not remove the second graft until later, because it will help to cover the wound faster.
In topworking large trees, it is best to graft about half the branches the first year and the second half the next. Start with the upper center limbs the first year. The best time to topwork is just as growth begins in the spring; however, it can be done several weeks earlier or later.

A. Stock may be prepared with a single cut, left, or a double cut.

B. Cut scion to form a shoulder.

C. For single cut, left, insert scion under bark, making a tight fit. For double cut, use small nails to secure scions.

Bark graft (veneer graft)
Bark grafting (Figure 3) is relatively easy and requires no special tools. It is similar to cleft grafting and may be performed on branches ranging from 1 inch to several inches in diameter.

Stock preparation
The branch or trunk is cut off at a right angle in the same manner as described for cleft grafting. The bark graft can be made only when the bark slips or easily separates from the wood. This usually is in early spring as growth begins.
Several techniques can be used on the stock for the bark graft (Figure 3a):

Make a slit in the bark about 3/4 inch long.

Make two slits in the bark separated by the width of the scion.

Scion preparation
The scions should be dormant, so gather deciduous plants before that time and keep them wrapped in plastic under refrigeration to prevent drying.
The scion should be 4 to 5 inches long with two to three buds. Prepare the base of the scion by cutting inward 1-1/2 to 2 inches from the base then downward, forming a shoulder and long, smooth cut (Figure 3b). The long cut should extend about one-third through the twig, keeping its base strong enough to insert but not too thick. On the side opposite the long cut, make a short cut to give the base of the scion a wedge shape for easier insertion.

Inserting the scion
A knife may be used to lift the bark at the top of the slit but may not always be necessary. Push the scion down and center it in the slit or between both slits if the double slit method is used. Insert the scion until the shoulder rests on the stub (Figure 3c). If the scion is large enough, one or two small nails may be used to tighten the scion to the stock. Some prefer to use electrical tape or masking tape to pull the surfaces tight. In some cases, the bark may not split or tear and nailing or wrapping is not necessary. In all cases, the graft should be thoroughly protected with wax over all open surfaces after it is completed.

A. Cut scion to form a short, smooth edge.

B. Make a slanting cut into the stock.

C. Insert scion so that cuts on thicker side match the cambium of the stock.

D. Cut off the top of the stock only after growth begins.

Side graft, stub graft
The side graft is relatively simple and is suitable for plants that are too large for a whip graft but not large enough for cleft or bark grafts (Figure 4). The plant or branch that will serve as the stock should be between 1 and 2 inches in diameter. The material for the scion should be about 1/4 inch in diameter.

Preparing the scion
The scion should contain two to three buds and be about 3 inches long. Make a wedge at the end of the scion similar to that made for cleft grafting, but it should be shorter (Figure 4a). Make one side slightly thicker than the other. It is not necessary to make the cuts more than 1 inch long. As with all grafting cuts, they must be made straight and smooth, with a single movement of a sharp knife.

Preparing the understock
Select a smooth area near the base. Use a sharp knife to make a slanting cut into the stock cutting (Figure 4b). The cut should angle downward and extend about halfway through the branch.

Inserting the scion
Pull the upper part of the stock back to open the cut. Insert the scion into the open cut with the slightly thicker side lying along the cambium. Set the scion at a slight angle to give maximum contact (Figure 4c). When the top is released, the scion should be held in place, so no tacking or wrapping is necessary. Some people prefer to tack or wrap the union. Do this carefully, so the cambial alignment is not disturbed. The stock or stock branch should then be cut off 5 to 6 inches beyond the graft. Also, remove any lateral branches on the stub that might crowd the graft as it begins to grow. Wax the graft carefully so that all cut surfaces are covered. The tip of the scion, as well as any open wounds made by removing lateral twigs on the branch, should also be waxed. After several weeks, when the scion has started growth, the remainder of the stock should be carefully cut closer to the graft, and the new cut should be waxed (Figure 4d).

Grafting tips

Scion
Scion wood should always be dormant. Scion wood should be made from previous season's growth and have a diameter of 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Store the scion in moist sphagnum moss, sand or a plastic bag in a cool place. It must be kept moist and cool until used. After the cuts are made, scions must be inserted immediately, or cuts should be kept moist until used.

Scion wood should be made of twig sections with two to three buds each. Discard the tip of scion wood and recut the base before grafting.

Timing
The best time for grafting is in the spring just as growth starts. When necessary, grafting can start several weeks before growth is expected and can continue a few weeks after growth has started, if you have dormant scion wood in storage and if weather is not exceptionally warm.

Other suggestions
The stock and scion must have cambial contact for union and growth to take place. All cut surfaces must be covered and kept covered with grafting wax until complete healing has occurred. In a few techniques, alternate methods for maintaining moisture in the union are used. But if you are grafting only a few plants, you will find waxing the graft most satisfactory.

After the graft has taken and growth has started, cut off any side shoots or competing twigs that would shade or compete with the development of the new graft.

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Audio clip 1.
The banana graft can be used for slightly older plants where stock and scion are about the same size. The stock is peeled as shown and the wood is cut.

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Audio clip 2.
Here the wood has been removed from the stock and is ready to receive the scion, which is being prepared.

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Audio clip 3.
Apple plants joined by whip-and-tongue grafting.

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Audio clip 4.
After the stock and scion are fitted together, they are wrapped to keep the union tight and moist. After healing through the winter, they will be ready for the field by spring.

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Audio clip 5.
For a cleft graft, where the stub is split, two scions are normally used.

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Audio clip 6.
This scion of pecan being prepared for bark grafting will be fit on a section of the 1-1/2-inch pecan seedling rootstock that has been cleared of bark.

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Audio clip 7.
After completing the grafting process, promptly cover the union to keep the graft cool and moist.

Original authors: Ray R. Rothenberger and Christopher J. Starbuck
Department of Horticulture

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Grafting is the act of joining two plants together. The upper part of the graft (the scion) becomes the top of the plant, the lower portion (the understock) becomes the root system or part of the trunk. Although grafting usually refers to joining only two plants, it may be a combination of several.

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https://www.lsuagcenter.com/portals/our_offices/parishes/east%20baton%20rouge/features/lawn_garden/propagate-roses-from-stem-cuttings

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While you are at it-you may want to save some of your rose prunings and turn them into new plants. Many methods exist but one of the easiest for homeowners is to use a one gallon, clear plastic, resealable bag.

Combine equal parts of all-purpose potting soil and perlite. Moisten lightly. If the mix drips water when squeezed, then too much water was used. Start over with less water. Fill the bag with a two-inch layer of the moistened media.

A fresh cutting is essential to rooting success. When pruning roses, look for stem cuttings 3 to 4 inches long that have 2 to 3 leaves attached. The best stem cuttings are from rose canes that have just bloomed. Place in an ice chest to keep cool and out of direct sunlight. Place different roses in their own plastic bags and label with a marker. I use the plastic bags that protect my Advocate newspaper.

Remove only the bottom leaf and dip the bottom inch of the stem cutting into a rooting hormone, like Dip 'N Gro or Rootone F. Immediately insert the cutting into the media, making sure the remaining green leaves are exposed to light. A bag will comfortably hold 10 cuttings. Exhale into the bag to inflate and then seal.

Place the bag in indirect light. Direct sun will kill the cuttings. The enclosed bag will simulate greenhouse conditions with a high relative humidity. Condensation will form within the bag. Leave the bag undisturbed for the first week. Open the bag to exchange air and to remove any dead leaves, being careful not to move the cuttings. If condensation fails to develop, add 2 tablespoons of water.

In 3 to 5 weeks you will see emerging roots, and in about 5 to 7 weeks, open the bag to allow the cuttings to become accustomed to outdoor growing conditions. The soil will dry so keep a close eye and water sparingly when needed. Plants can receive additional light now that the bag is open.

Once fully rooted and with new growth showing, remove the cuttings and pot in small containers or directly into a protected garden spot.

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While you are at it-you may want to save some of your rose prunings and turn them into new plants. Many methods exist but one of the easiest for homeowners is to use a one gallon, clear plastic, resealable bag. Combine equal parts of all-purpose potting soil and perlite. Moisten lightly.

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https://www.lsuagcenter.com/portals/communications/news/get_it_growing/seasonal_archives/winter/hear_more/hardwood-cuttings-allow-for-plant-propagation

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(Audio 01/15/07) There are a number of plants in our landscapes that we can propagate with hardwood cuttings. These cuttings are taken during mid-to-late winter. Some of the plants you can propagate using this technique are roses and figs.

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Hardwood Cuttings Allow For Plant Propagation

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(Audio 01/15/07) There are a number of plants in our landscapes that we can propagate with hardwood cuttings. These cuttings are taken during mid-to-late winter. Some of the plants you can propagate using this technique are roses and figs.

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https://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media/system/5/5/6/4/55646c0ef9404ad2073c46b006e13b51/native%20seed%20propagation%20methods%20-%20mopdf.pdf

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https://pender.ces.ncsu.edu/2019/08/propagating-houseplants/

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- Written By Jessica Strickland

en Español

El inglés es el idioma de control de esta página. En la medida en que haya algún conflicto entre la traducción al inglés y la traducción, el inglés prevalece.

Al hacer clic en el enlace de traducción se activa un servicio de traducción gratuito para convertir la página al español. Al igual que con cualquier traducción por Internet, la conversión no es sensible al contexto y puede que no traduzca el texto en su significado original. NC State Extension no garantiza la exactitud del texto traducido. Por favor, tenga en cuenta que algunas aplicaciones y/o servicios pueden no funcionar como se espera cuando se traducen.

English is the controlling language of this page. To the extent there is any conflict between the English text and the translation, English controls.

Clicking on the translation link activates a free translation service to convert the page to Spanish. As with any Internet translation, the conversion is not context-sensitive and may not translate the text to its original meaning. NC State Extension does not guarantee the accuracy of the translated text. Please note that some applications and/or services may not function as expected when translated.

Estoy de Acuerdo / I agree

Propagating houseplants can be a fun and easy way to have more plants or share plants with family and fellow gardening friends. Propagating houseplants does not require any special material or equipment and can be done without taking up a lot of space in the house.

Plant propagation is the reproduction of a new plant from an already existing plant. Asexual propagation is often the method used to propagate houseplants. Asexual propagation is the production of new plants from pieces of a parent plant. These new plants will have the same characteristics as the parent plant, where as if you planted a seed from a plant the new plant may be different from the parent plant.

There are many ways that plants can be propagated. One of the quickest and easiest ways to propagate many houseplants is by separating or dividing the parent plant. Houseplants like ferns, prayer plant, snake plant, and African violets can be easily divided. When dividing a plant, simply remove the plant from its container and gently pry apart the roots of the plant so that you have two or more clumps of the plant. Take each clump and re-pot in a new container. You may have to stake some plants until the plant's roots take hold in the soil.

There are several houseplants, like the spider plant, that produce new plantlets. Simply cut these "baby plants" from the main plant and pot in a container to get a new plant.

Cuttings are another way to propagate houseplants. There are many types of cuttings that can be used. Stem cuttings are commonly used for many houseplants. Cuttings are made from the tender growth of terminal shoots and are usually three to six inches long. The lower one-third of foliage should be removed before inserting the stem into the rooting medium (soil) one to one-half inches deep. Most houseplants root easily enough that you can even skip the soil and put stem cuttings in a cup of water until roots form. Once roots form, you can plant into a soil-filled container.

Leaf cuttings are ones that include only a leaf blade or the leaf blade and petiole (leaf stem). Houseplants like African violets, succulents, peperomia, gloxinia and snake plants can be propagated with leaf cuttings. Since leaf cuttings do not include an axillary bud (which gives rise to a new plant), only houseplants that have the ability of forming adventitious buds, which will give rise to new plants, can be propagated by leaf cuttings.

There are many other types of cuttings that can be used for propagating houseplants but regardless of the type of cutting you use, the way you take the cutting and care for it is the same. Start with taking cuttings from vigorous, healthy shoots. Weak or disease cuttings will seldom root well or will result in a poor quality plant. When taking cuttings use a sharp knife since a blunt knife will crush the plant tissue and restrict water uptake.

Rooting hormones can be used to speed up rooting for some plants, but for houseplants it is usually not necessary. There are various rooting hormone formulations available in many garden supply stores and mail-order seed and nursery companies.

There are many plants that will develop roots by taking a stem cutting and placing the cutting in a glass of water. If you root a stem cutting in water, be sure to remove it as soon as some roots develop and plant in rooting medium or soil to prevent the roots from rotting.

Rooting medium used should be firm enough to hold up cuttings and allow good drainage and aeration. Sand, vermiculite, perlite, and combinations of these materials with peat moss often work well. The rooting medium should be sterile and remain moist while waiting for cuttings to root.

Since the cuttings have no root system, they need high humidity maintained around them at all times. You can have high humidity around the cuttings by putting a plastic bag or glass jar over the container that the cuttings are in. Avoid putting in direct sunlight to prevent bag or jar from getting too hot if the cutting is in direct sunlight. Occasionally take the jar off or poke a few small holes in the bag to allow excess heat to escape.

Check the cuttings occasionally to see when roots develop. The length of time needed for cuttings to form roots differs greatly among plants. Gently tug on the cutting and if there feels that there is some resistance then roots have formed. Do not tug on the cutting too much to the point of disturbing the cutting or accidentally remove it from the soil and have to replant it. When a cutting has roots at least an inch long, transplant it into a separate container in good potting soil. Allow some time for the new plants to become established before applying fertilizer.
Jessica Strickland is an Agriculture Extension Agent, specializing in horticulture for North Carolina Cooperative Extension in Wayne County. Learn More!

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Propagating houseplants can be a fun and easy way to have more plants or share plants with family and fellow gardening friends. Propagating houseplants does not require any special material or equipment and can be done without taking up a lot of space in the house.

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http://go.ncsu.edu/readext?851235

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- Written By Tiffanee Boone

en Español

El inglés es el idioma de control de esta página. En la medida en que haya algún conflicto entre la traducción al inglés y la traducción, el inglés prevalece.

Al hacer clic en el enlace de traducción se activa un servicio de traducción gratuito para convertir la página al español. Al igual que con cualquier traducción por Internet, la conversión no es sensible al contexto y puede que no traduzca el texto en su significado original. NC State Extension no garantiza la exactitud del texto traducido. Por favor, tenga en cuenta que algunas aplicaciones y/o servicios pueden no funcionar como se espera cuando se traducen.

English is the controlling language of this page. To the extent there is any conflict between the English text and the translation, English controls.

Clicking on the translation link activates a free translation service to convert the page to Spanish. As with any Internet translation, the conversion is not context-sensitive and may not translate the text to its original meaning. NC State Extension does not guarantee the accuracy of the translated text. Please note that some applications and/or services may not function as expected when translated.

Estoy de Acuerdo / I agree

Written by: Aimee Jarrels, Extension Master Gardener℠ Volunteer of Pender County

The Basics Of Garden Plant Propagation

Plants are truly unique living organisms, built like no other on this earth. They grow by themselves, give fruits and flowers, make their own food, and produce their own seeds. However, when it comes to gardening, plants can get slightly more complicated.

Plant propagation includes the different techniques and methods used to reproduce new seeds and through them seedlings and eventually mature plants. This depends not just on the knowledge a gardener carries of the plant, but also on the different ways to reproduce and experience. While seeds are generally the primary mode of producing new plants, other planting materials like tubers, corms, stolons, fruits, and buds can also be used to create new plants in our backyards. Here are the basics of plant propagation for beginners.

The Simple Approach

In elementary school, all of us are taught the most rudimentary form of propagation- take some seeds and dig a small hole in some soil. Place the seeds inside the depression and cover it up. After several days of sprinkling water over the area, green leaves can be seen sprouting from the ground where the seeds were sown.

Funnily enough, the basic method doesn't change much from when you're introduced to it in 1st grade to when you actually decide to grow some tomatoes or chilies in your backyard as a grown-up.

Some additional steps to the most familiar method of propagation include seed treatment before sowing to promote better and quicker growth of the plant and protection from certain diseases and pests. Sometimes, seeds must be scarred intentionally to break dormancy and other times, seeds may need to be chilled before sowing rather than kept warm and moist.

Pre-sowing seed preparations are decided by several factors like the type of crop being sown, the area and overall climate, and the fertility of the soil to name a few. In most cases, this can be found out by some simple university research and trials and errors.

Seeds and What Else?

Some plants, like fruit trees or ornamentals and flowers, propagate by manual asexual methods including grafting, cutting, budding, and layering. Most perennials are produced through these asexual methods rather than the traditional seed sowing practice.

At the core, both sexual (seed propagation) and asexual methods through various planting materials (cuts, tubers, corms, layering, grafting, etc) follow the same principles. The genetic makeup is taken from a parent plant and buried in soil, watered, and given the suitable conditions to develop into an individual mature plant of its own. The difference lies in the planting material carrying the genes of the parents. While seeds are the biological product of fruits that are planted, other parts of a plant can be used to transfer and sow for propagation. In fact, in some cases, propagation through non-seed planting materials often gives better results.

The different asexual propagation approaches depend on the plant, cultivar, availability of resources, and the knowledge and skill level of the propagator. The good news is, with a little practice, the propagation of plants is not that difficult to learn and can be easily carried out by a basic horticultural tool kit.

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Written by: Aimee Jarrels, Extension Master Gardener℠ Volunteer of Pender County The Basics Of Garden Plant Propagation Plants are truly unique living organisms, built like no other on this earth. They grow by themselves, give fruits and flowers, make their own food, and produce their own seeds.

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https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/plant-propagation-by-layering-instructions-for-the-home-gardener

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Stems that are still attached to their parent plant may form roots where they come in contact with a rooting medium. This method of vegetative propagation is generally successful, because water stress is minimized and carbohydrate and mineral nutrient levels are high. The development of roots on a stem while the stem is still attached to the parent plant is called layering. A layer is the rooted stem following detachment (removal) from the parent plant.

Some plants propagate naturally by layering, but sometimes plant propagators assist the process. Layering is enhanced by wounding the stem where the roots are to form. The rooting medium should always provide aeration and a constant supply of moisture.

Simple layering can be accomplished by bending a low growing, flexible stem to the ground. Cover part of it with soil, leaving the remaining 6 to 12 inches above the soil. Bend the tip into a vertical position and stake in place ( Figure 1). The sharp bend will often induce rooting, but wounding the lower side of the bent branch may help also. Simple layering can be done on most plants with low-growing branches. Examples of plants propagated by simple layering include climbing roses, forsythia, rhododendron, honeysuckle, boxwood, azalea, and wax myrtle.

Simple layering can be done in early spring using a dormant branch, or in late summer using a mature branch. Periodically check for adequate moisture and for the formation of roots. It may take one or more seasons before the layer is ready to be removed for transplanting.

Tip layering is quite similar to simple layering. Dig a hole 3 to 4 inches deep. Insert the tip of a current season's shoot and cover it with soil. The tip grows downward first, then bends sharply and grows upward. Roots form at the bend. The re-curved tip becomes a new plant ( Figure 2). Remove the tip layer and plant it in late fall or early spring. Examples of plants propagated by tip layering include purple and black raspberries, and trailing blackberries.

Compound (serpentine) layering is similar to simple layering, but several layers can result from a single stem. Bend the stem to the rooting medium as for simple layering, but alternately cover and expose sections of the stem. Each section should have at least one bud exposed and one bud covered with soil. Wound the lower side of each stem section to be covered ( Figure 3). This method works well for plants producing vine-like growth such as heart-leaf philodendron, pothos, wisteria, clematis, and grapes.

Mound (stool) layering is useful with heavy-stemmed, closely branched shrubs and rootstocks of tree fruits. Cut the plant back to 1 inch above the soil surface in the dormant season. Dormant buds will produce new shoots in the spring. Mound soil over the new shoots as they grow ( Figure 4). Roots will develop at the bases of the young shoots. Remove the layers in the dormant season. Mound layering works well on apple rootstocks, spirea, quince, daphne, magnolia, and cotoneaster.

Air layering can be used to propagate large, overgrown house plants such as rubber plant, croton, or dieffenbachia that have lost most of their lower leaves. Woody ornamentals such as azalea, camellia, magnolia, oleander, and holly can also be propagated by air layering. For optimum rooting, make air layers in the spring on shoots produced during the previous season or in mid to late summer on shoots from the current season's growth. For woody plants, stems of pencil size diameter or larger are best. Choose an area just below a node and remove leaves and twigs on the stem 3 to 4 inches above and below this point. This is normally done on a stem about 1 foot from the tip.

Air layering differs, depending on whether the plant is a monocot or a dicot. For monocots, make an upward 1- to 1 ¹⁄ ₂-inch cut about one-third through the stem. The cut is held open with a toothpick or wooden match stick. Surround the wound with moist, unmilled sphagnum moss (about a handful) that has been soaked in water and squeezed to remove excess moisture. Wrap the moss with plastic and hold in place with twist ties or electrician's tape. No moss should extend beyond the ends of the plastic. Fasten each end of the plastic securely, to retain moisture and to prevent water from entering. If exposed to the sun, the plastic should be covered. Aluminum foil can also be used, as it does not require twist ties or tape to hold it in place.

The process for dicots is similar, except a 1-inch ring of bark is removed from the stem. With a sharp knife, make two parallel cuts about an inch apart around the stem and through the bark and cambium layer ( see Figure 5). Connect the two parallel cuts with one long cut. Remove the ring of bark, leaving the inner woody tissue exposed. Scrape the newly bared ring to remove the cambial tissue to prevent a bridge of callus tissue from forming. Application of a root-promoting substance to the exposed wound is sometimes beneficial. Wrap and cover using the same procedure as that described for monocots.

After the rooting medium is filled with roots, sever the stem below the medium and pot the layer. The new plant will usually require some pampering until the root system becomes more developed. Provide shade and adequate moisture until the plant is well established.

Sometimes layering occurs naturally, without the assistance of a propagator. Runners and offsets are specialized plant structures that facilitate propagation by layering.

A runner produces new shoots where it touches the growing medium ( Figure 6). Plants that produce stolons or runners are propagated by severing the new plants from their parent stems. Plantlets at the tips of runners may be rooted while still attached to the parent or detached and placed in a rooting medium. Examples include strawberry and spider plant.

Plants with rosetted stems often reproduce by forming new shoots, called offshoots, at their base or in the leaf axles. Sever the new shoots from the parent plant after they have developed their own root systems. Unrooted offsets of some species may be removed and placed in a rooting medium. Some of these must be cut off, whereas others may simply be lifted from the parent stem. Examples include date palm, bromeliads, and many cacti.

Bryant, G. 1995. Propagation Handbook. Stackpole Books: Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania.

Dirr, M. A. and C. W. Heuser, Jr. 1987. The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation: From Seed to Tissue Culture. Varsity Press: Athens, Georgia.

Hartmann, H. T., D. E. Kester, F. T. Davies and R. L. Geneve. 1996. Plant Propagation, Principles and Practices. 6th ed. Prentice Hall: Upper Saddle River, New Jersey.

McMillan Browse, P. D. A. 1978. Plant Propagation. Simon and Schuster: New York.

Toogood, A. 1993. Plant Propagation Made Easy. Timber Press: Portland, Oregon.

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Plant Propagation by Layering | NC State Extension Publications

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Stems that are still attached to their parent plant may form roots where they come in contact with a rooting medium. This method of vegetative propagation is generally successful, because water stress is minimized and carbohydrate and mineral nutrient levels are high.

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https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/plant-propagation-by-stem-cuttings-instructions-for-the-home-gardener

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Plant Propagation by Stem Cuttings | NC State Extension Publications

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Propagation by stem cuttings is the most commonly used method to propagate many woody ornamental plants. Stem cuttings of many favorite shrubs are quite easy to root. Typically, stem cuttings of tree species are more difficult to root. However, cuttings from trees such as crape myrtles, some elms, a…

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Propagation by cuttings, layering, and division

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Propagation by cuttings, layering, and division

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https://www.google.com/url?client=internal-element-cse&cx=010080288179193638776:lzkflwvaij0&q=https://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media/system/5/5/6/4/55646c0ef9404ad2073c46b006e13b51/propagation%2520by%2520cuttings%2520layering%2520and%2520division%2520-%2520uvapdf.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwizucPe_8L6AhVRLUQIHXzPDGEQFnoECAcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw046SQZ4ggmwHBmJfaXt3Su

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https://www.lsuagcenter.com/portals/communications/news/news_archive/2012/may/get_it_growing/layering-is-an-easy-way-to-propagate-plants

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Propagating plants means to create new plants from those you already have, and you can do that in many different ways. Planting seeds and rooting cuttings are two of the most common methods of propagation. But another technique, called layering, is useful in propagating a wide variety of ornamental plants. Now is an excellent time to layer plants.

The major difference from stem cuttings is that layering stimulates roots to form on the stem before rather than after it is removed from the parent plant. Layering has some real advantages over taking cuttings. Layering is often successful with plants that are difficult to root from cuttings. Also, a much larger piece of the plant may be rooted when using layering, so you get a bigger plant more quickly.

As with other forms of vegetative propagation - such as cuttings, division, grafting and tissue culture - using layering to propagate a plant creates offspring that are genetically identical to the parent plant. This means that you can create as many as you want of exact copies (clones) of a plant with desirable characteristics.

Despite all the recent hoopla over cloning animals, people have been cloning plants for thousands of years. Many or most of the ornamental plants in your landscape and home are clones, and most of the fruits and nuts you buy in the supermarket are produced by clones.

Layering can be done with herbaceous or woody plant materials. It is most often used on woody plants because they tend to be more difficult to root from cuttings. But layering can also be very useful for herbaceous plants, especially when you want to root a relatively large piece. I have layered coleus, ruellia, ornamental sweet potatoes and impatiens to name a few.

Simple layering, as the name implies, is the easiest method to use. Its main requirement is that the plant must have a branch that is low enough and supple enough to bend to the ground. If such a branch is not available, a variation called air layering can be used - but more on that later.

Here are the basic steps for simple layering. You will need a sharp knife, rooting hormone, a brick or stone, and a trowel.

1. Select a low, supple branch that can be bent to the ground without breaking. A part of the branch at least 8 to 12 inches back from the tip should be able to touch the ground.

2. Bend the branch down and determine what part of the branch will come in contact with the soil and where it will touch the ground.

3. Use the trowel to dig a shallow hole (about 3 inches deep) in the soil where the branch touches the ground.

4. Use the knife to wound the branch at the point where it touches the ground. The branch must be wounded to induce roots to form, but do not completely cut through it. You can use one of several techniques:

-Scrape off a ring of bark about 3/4 inches wide.

-Cut a notch about half way into the branch.

-Make a slanting cut into the branch (toward the branch tip) about halfway through it and wedge it open with a small pebble or twig.

Then dust the wound or cut with rooting hormone powder. This step generally is not necessary to induce root formation on herbaceous plants.

5. Gently bend branch so that the wounded area is in the shallow hole, then cover it with soil. Place the stone or brick on top to hold the branch in place because it will tend to spring back. At least 8 to 12 inches of the end of the branch should be sticking out of the soil.

Roots should readily form at the wound during the warm summer months. Herbaceous plants root in as little as four to six weeks, but you should give woody plants, which root more slowly, four to six months. It won't hurt to carefully dig around the layer occasionally to check on root formation. When you see well-developed roots (at least 1 to 3 inches long, depending on the size of the layer), cut the branch at the point just behind the roots. Then you can pot the new plant or plant it into the landscape.

Air layering is done on plants when no branches can be bent to the ground, but the principles are the same. Wound a branch using one of the above techniques, dust it with rooting hormone and wrap the wounded area with damp sphagnum moss. While holding the moss in place, wrap it with plastic and secure it in place by tying or taping it above and below the ball of moss. Do not allow the moss to dry out during rooting. Check periodically for roots, and cut off the layer just below the roots when they form.

Layering is one of the easiest and most reliable methods of propagating plants. It makes a wonderful gardening project, and you can use the resulting new plants yourself or give them to gardening friends.

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Layering is an easy way to propagate plants

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(For Release On Or After 05/25/12) Propagating plants means to create new plants from those you already have, and you can do that in many different ways. Planting seeds and rooting cuttings are two of the most common methods of propagation. But another technique, called layering, is useful in propagating a wide variety of ornamental plants.

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https://www.lsuagcenter.com/profiles/rbogren/articles/page1498224545627

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(06/23/17) Plant propagation is fun and provides you with extra plants for your landscape or to share with friends. Plants can be propagated in a variety of ways, such as planting seeds or rooting cuttings, but layering is often overlooked by gardeners who are unfamiliar with the technique. When layering, roots are induced to develop on a stem while it is still attached to the parent plant. Early summer is a great time to start layers because it provides a long growing season for roots to form and grow.

Simple layering and air layering are the two most commonly used techniques. In both procedures, the stem is wounded by cutting or scraping, causing an interruption in the downward movement of sugars and hormones in the stem. These accumulate near the wounded section, and under the right conditions, cause roots to form. Because the stem is still attached to the parent plant, the part to be propagated still receives water during the rooting process, and you can root a much larger piece than with cuttings.

Simple layering is easy to do. This method is excellent to use on woody plants that have low, supple branches, such as azaleas, camellias, spireas and other shrubs. Select the branch to be layered, and bend it so that a spot 12 to 18 inches from the tip of the branch touches the ground. Holding the branch out of the way and using a trowel, dig a shallow hole where the branch touched the ground.

Next, wound the branch at the spot where it touched the ground by using a knife to make a slanting cut on the underside of the stem angled toward the tip of the branch. The cut should be no deeper than about half way through the stem. Or scrape away a ring of bark about three-quarters of an inch wide. Dust the wound with rooting hormone. If you wounded the stem by cutting it, wedge the cut open with a small pebble or twig.

Finally, put the wounded section of the branch into the hole and cover it with 2 or 3 inches of soil. Put a stone or brick on top to hold the branch in place.

Throughout the summer, keep the area around the layer moist. The layer should have rooted by October, so check it then. If roots have formed, cut the rooted branch from the parent plant, making the cut just behind the rooted area of the stem, and plant the rooted cutting in a pot or in the landscape.

Air layering is a variation of simple layering used on plants when a low, supple branch is not available. Air layering can be done with a wide variety of both tropical houseplants and landscape trees and shrubs, such as citrus, ficus, azalea, magnolia, dracaena, schefflera, dieffenbachia, holly, hibiscus and many others.

Start by selecting a branch about one year old. At a point 12 to 18 inches from the tip, wound the stem as described for simple layering. If a slanting cut is made, wedge it open with a match stick, toothpick or a bit of damp sphagnum moss. This will keep the wound from healing over and prevent root formation. Apply a rooting hormone, then cover the wounded area with damp sphagnum moss about the size of a baseball. Wrap the moss with plastic kitchen wrap, making sure no moss is exposed beyond the plastic because it could act as a wick and dry out the moss inside the plastic. Twist each end to make tight seals on the stem above and below the moss. Tie or tape these ends to prevent moisture loss.

If the air layer will receive any direct sunlight, cover the plastic with aluminum foil. This prevents sunlight penetration through the clear plastic that would cause excessive heat buildup and prevent root formation.

The most common mistake made in air layering is allowing the moss to dry out. The moss must remain damp, or rooting will not take place. Occasionally loosen the top of the plastic and check the moss to make sure that it doesn't dry out. Add water as necessary and reseal the plastic.

Rooting generally takes between eight and 12 weeks. Whenever roots are clearly seen through the plastic, the air layered stem can be cut immediately below the roots. Remove the plastic, but leave the moss attached to the newly developed roots. Plant the cutting in a container of potting soil and place it in a bright location but not in direct sun until roots develop further. Then move it to a permanent location.

When the air layer is cut away, the portion of stem below the cut may be completely leafless, but in a short period of time, dormant buds will generally begin to grow. This works particularly well for indoor plants that have grown too large. By air layering, you reduce the size of the original plant when you cut off the rooted layer, and you also end up with a new plant.

Layering is a simple way of creating new plants, and the success rate is quite good. If you have had difficulty with cuttings, these methods may be the answer to your problems.
The first step in layering is to use a knife to make a slanting cut on the underside of the stem angled toward the tip of the branch. Photo by Rick Bogren/LSU AgCenter

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(06/23/17) Plant propagation is fun and provides you with extra plants for your landscape or to share with friends. Plants can be propagated in a variety of ways, such as planting seeds or rooting cuttings, but layering is often overlooked by gardeners who are unfamiliar with the technique.

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Propagation Tips Video (2 minutes) from LSUAgCenter

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Propagation Tips Video (2 minutes) from LSUAgCenter

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Get It Growing: How to easily propagate plants from cuttings

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Link to Master Gardeners Greater New Orleans 

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Link to Master Gardeners Greater New Orleans 

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Welcome to the independent website of the Master Gardeners of Greater New Orleans! This site is intended to provide our members and the general public with up-to-date information on our organization including educational and gardening activities, volunteer opportunities in and around town, and the latest news of MGGNO. General information about the Louisiana Master Gardener program, horticultural publications and more can be found at lsuagcenter.com and in this brief article by Miles Brashier, Louisiana Master Gardener Coordinator4.

Our Mission
To increase the public's love for and knowledge of gardening and responsible stewardship of the environment.
Serving Jefferson, Orleans, Plaquemines and St. Bernard parishes, the Master Gardeners of Greater New Orleans strives to aid the LSU AgCenter to meet the educational needs of home gardeners in our community while providing enjoyable, worthwhile service experience for our members.

Gardening Tips

Herbs and Spices

Herbs and spices both come from plants. (Salt is neither a spice nor an herb. It is a mineral.) Herbs and spices are used primarily for adding flavor and aroma to food. Both are best used fresh but can be saved by drying. While there are similarities, there also are subtle differences between herbs and spices.

Herbs are the leaves of herbaceous (non-woody) plants. They are used for savory purposes in cooking, and some have medicinal value. Herbs often are used in larger amounts than spices. Herbs originated from temperate climates such as Italy, France, and England. Herb also is a word used to define any herbaceous plant that dies down at the end of the growing season and may not refer to its culinary value at all. Read more

GARDEN SPOTLIGHT

CYNTHIA MIRANDA
Louisiana Super Plants
Tell us a little about yourself. I'm a retired nurse with 25 years of experience in hospitals and 20 years in medical sales. I enjoy my time in the garden, with family, and with friends. What inspired you to become a Master Gardener? I was choosing an organization of professionals, which provided certification of garden knowledge, volunteer projects and continuing education which enhance my personal garden. What do you love to learn about the most in gardening? I love how native plants contribute to our ecosystem and support our insects and birds with beauty and purpose in our landscapes.

The LMG Class of 2019 designed and staffed the " Pollinators in the Garde n" education exhibit in the 2019 NOBG Fall Garden Festival. Pictured are committee co-chairs Sara Nehrbass and Nicole Tygier.

The " Patio Kitchen Garden" for the MGGNO education exhibit in the 2019 NOBG Spring Garden Show received the Best of Show award. Colleen Wood, Education Exhibit Chair, is pictured with the exhibit.

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Welcome to the independent website of the Master Gardeners of Greater New Orleans! This site is intended to provide our members and the general public with up-to-date information on our organization including educational and gardening activities, volunteer opportunities in and around town, and the latest news of MGGNO.

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Link to LSU Ag Master Gardener Information

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Link to LSU Ag Master Gardener Information

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Welcome! The Louisiana Master Gardener Program is a volunteer development program offered by the LSU AgCenter. Master Gardener volunteers are highly trained and provide proven, research-based educational programs to Louisiana residents.

In 2021, Louisiana trained 274 new volunteers. Together, new and tenured volunteers provided 54,477 hours of volunteer service throughout the state. These hours equate to nearly 30 full-time employees and an economic impact of just over $1.6 million dollars. Additionally, volunteers continued their education by completing over 14,000 continuing education units (CEUs) in 2020.

Since its inception in 1994, more than 3,500 individuals have participated in the program to become certified Louisiana Master Gardeners. Certified Louisiana Master Gardeners in good standing were given a unique opportunity to further their knowledge. The Advanced Louisiana Master Gardener Program debuted in 2015 and so far, over 110 individuals have obtained this advanced status.

At the heart of the Louisiana Master Gardener program is our volunteers. Volunteers assist Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service personnel extend the educational arm of the university to the public by providing horticultural information based on university research and recommendations.

In other words, the Louisiana Master Gardener program is a place for volunteers to have a fun, educational experience while serving the community in which they live.

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Welcome! The Louisiana Master Gardener Program is a volunteer development program offered by the LSU AgCenter. Master Gardener volunteers are highly trained and provide proven, research-based educational programs to Louisiana residents. In 2021, Louisiana trained 274 new volunteers. Together, new and tenured volunteers provided 54,477 hours of volunteer service throughout the state.