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Huerto casero vertical, modular y escalable - Como construirlo.

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13 Vegetables That You Can Regrow Again And Again

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13 Vegetables That You Can Regrow Again And Again

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Creative Ideas and DIY Projects to Inspire Your Daily Life

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Greetings from i Creative Ideas! No time or space for your own vegetable garden? No worries! You can still enjoy growing vegetables at home. There are some vegetables that you can regrow again and again from kitchen scraps. Here at i Creative Ideas, we have come up with a roundup of 13 vegetables that you can regrow again and again. Examples include lettuce, celery, bok choy, sweet potato and basil. They are super easy to grow. You'll just need a little bit time and patience to take care of the new plants and make sure they have the necessary water and sunlight. But the benefits are huge. You will have your own organic vegetable garden with regular supply at essentially no cost! In addition, projects like these will be great activities or fun experiments for the kids. They will have fun watching the scraps sprout and regrow. It's a great way for the kids to learn about recycling and how plants and food can grow. Sounds magical? Let's get started!

1. Basil

You can regrow basil by putting the basil stems with leaf nodes in a glass of water and placing them in a sunny spot. Wait for the roots to grow about 2 inches long and then transfer them in pots. Tutorial via The Urban Gardener.

2. Romaine Lettuce

You can regrow romaine lettuce from the bottom of the stump. Just put the romaine lettuce stumps in half inch of water for a few days. Refill water if the water level is below half inch. When new leaves start to regrow, you can transfer and plant them in soil. Tutorial via Fast, Cheap, and Good.

3. Carrots

The leaves of carrot are actually edible and you can regrow them by putting carrot tops in water in a well-lit room or a window sill. This is a clever way to turn your carrot scraps into salad. Tutorial via Fidgety Fingers.

4. Green Onion

Green Onions are probably the easiest vegetables to regrow. You can regrow green onions by cutting them in about an inch from the roots and placing them in a glass of water. Tutorial via We are not Foodies.

5. Garlic

You can regrow garlic sprouts from a single garlic clove. Just place the sprouted garlic cloves in a glass with little water and wait for the shoots to grow taller. Alternatively, you can plant garlic cloves directly in the soil. Tutorial via Simple Daily Recipes. Image via Nancy Enge Design.

6. Celery

You can regrow celery by cutting off the base of the celery and placing it in a bowl of warm water in a sunny spot. The new leaves in the middle of the base will begin to grow and thicken in 5 to 7 days. Then you can transfer it to a pot with soil. Tutorial via 17 Apart.

7. Cilantro

You can regrow cilantro by placing the stems in a glass of water. When the roots are long enough, you can transfer them to a pot with soil in a sunny spot. It will take a few months for a harvest. Image via Green Jean.

8. Bok Choy

You can regrow bok choy by placing the root end face up in water. In a few days, you will see it starts to regrow. And in 1-2 weeks , you can transfer it to a pot with soil to let it grow a full head. Tutorial via 17 Apart.

9. Lemongrass

You can regrow lemongrass by placing the stalks in water. When the roots come out in 2 to 3 weeks, you can plant the lemongrass stalks in a pot with soil in a sunny place. Tutorial via Suited To The Seasons.

10. Ginger

You can regrow ginger by soaking ginger chunks overnight in water and then transferring them in a pot with soil in a warm and sunny place. Tutorial via Chiot's Run.

11. Sweet Potato

You can regrow sweet potato by placing it in a jar of water in direct sunlight and letting it sprout. Then plant the well-rooted sprouts in soil. Tutorial via Home Joys.

12. Onion

You can regrow onion from the bottom of the onion. Just cut off the onion bottom, let it dry for some time and plant it in soil. Tutorial via Instructables.

13. Leeks

Regrowing leeks works the same as regrowing green onions. Just cut them in about 2 inch from the roots and place them in a glass of water. Image via Enchanted Wellness & Fitness.

14. Rosemary

Rosemary can be propagated and regrown by cutting 2-3 inch from the tops of the rosemary stalks and placing them into water. When the new roots sprout, you can transfer them into soil-filled containers. Tutorial via 17 Apart.

15. Lemon Balm

There are some fruit plants that you can regrow from scraps or seeds. The followings are some examples for you. Enjoy!

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13 Vegetables That You Can Regrow Again And Again

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Greetings from i Creative Ideas! No time or space for your own vegetable garden? No worries! You can still enjoy growing vegetables at home. There are some vegetables that you can regrow again and again from kitchen scraps. Here at i Creative Ideas, we have come up with a roundup ...

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How to make Self Watering System for your Plants using waste Plastic Bottle and a Rope

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Building a bottle greenhouse / RHS Campaign for School Gardening

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Ever wanted to keep caterpillars, watch them form into chrysalises and then fly off after maturity? It's quite simple to make a good habitat for caterpillars. You need to make sure they have plenty of their host plant to feed on, they are...

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Beans and peas are relatively easy to grow, making them a good choice for a first-time gardener or a new garden plot. There are plenty of varieties of each, from climbing green beans to sweet sugar snap peas. Start your plants from seed by...

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How to Grow Potatoes From Potatoes | That Have Gone Past Use By

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A terrarium is like an aquarium, but for plants instead of fish. It is made in just about any glass container. It is planted to look like a miniature garden or forest enclosed in its own little world.

You can easily make a beautiful terrarium yourself.

First, you want all the plants to thrive in the same kind of environment. For example, you could plant all succulents (including cactus), because they need very little water. Or you could plant all ferns, because they like it moist. You could put moss with the ferns, because moss likes it moist too. If you put a fern with a cactus, one or the other might not do well (the fern if it gets too dry, the cactus if it gets too wet).

You can use an open container or a closed container.

An open container is best for succulents and cacti. They like lots of air.

A closed container (with a lid) might be best for ferns, ivies, and begonias. They like it humid. But if you see a lot of water condensing on the lid, remove it for a while, then replace it.

For any terrarium, you need:

Clear glass container. For example, aquarium of any size, goldfish bowl, cookie jar, pickle jar, vase with a broad bottom, brandy snifter, or even a shallow dish with a glass bowl turned upside-down over it.

Rocks (around marble sized, depending on the size of container)

Activated charcoal to filter the water and help prevent growth of fungi

Potting Soil (sterilized)

Small plants of different colors, shapes, & textures. Try to get miniature plants that aren't going to grow too big for the container.

Optional:

Moss

Decorative rocks or pebbles, or both

Fun décor, like tiny pine cones, shells, ceramic animals, or a garden gnome.

Make sure your glass container is clean and shiny.

Start with a layer of rocks, about one inch or so, at the bottom of your container. These will help the soil drainage, so the roots of your plants won't get water-logged.

Add a 1/2-inch-thick layer of charcoal.

Fill the container up to half-full with potting soil.

Plant your plants. When you remove them from their little pots, carefully tease the roots apart and remove some of the old soil so they will fit nicely in the terrarium. Arrange them to look nice. Leave some space for them to breathe and grow. Pat down the soil so they don't get uprooted easily.

Add decorative pebbles, rocks, pine cones, or whatever to make your terrarium look like a little garden world.

Water the plants, but not too much.

Place in indirect light.

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Beginner's tips on full water culture method for orchids.

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Fighting Fish

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This is a great gift idea that costs only $8! Thats right! Everyone who has seen my vase has wanted one and they are super simple to make!

You will need:

- *1* Betta Fish $2.99 Petco

- Peace Lily $3.99 Safeway

- Vase $1.00 Dollar Tree

- Stones or colored marbles $1.00 Dollar Tree

- Blue Gatorade $1.00 Dollar Tree

*Note* Betta Fish fight to the death. Only one per vase. Also. Don't cross them.

*Note* Blue Gatorade is the best flavor

*Note* Glacier Freeze is not blue Gatorade. Glacier Freeze is a mountain flavor.

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Step 1: Wash You Stuff

Wash your rocks / marbles and your vase! Who knows what kind of chemicals have been in there! The rocks and the vase should be clean so that your fish is happy and healthy!

Gently place some stones / marbles at the bottom of the vase. Don't drop them in. It could break your vase!

Now fill up your Vase a little bit with some lukewarm water to for your fish.

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Step 2: Clean Your Peace Lily

Clean off all the dirt from your Peace lily. This can be done with a hose. Massage the roots gently as you spray the dirt away. Take your time and be patient. The cleaner it is the happier you will be in the long run. Trust me it is worth the extra effort to get every little piece of dirt you can.

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Step 3: Create Your Plant Holder.

Take your Gatorade. Chug it. This is the only way your project will be successful. *Important* Robots should use caution with this step.

Now we will form the rock catcher at the top of the vase. This will hold the plant, the rocks, and positions your plant how you like it.

After washing out your Gatorade bottle tip the bottle upside down and put it in your vase to see where the best place to cut your bottle is. This should be about 1.5 - 2.0 inches but it really does not matter as long as it does not come over the vase. Mark it with a black sharpie as I have done in the picture. Now cut it off with some scissors. Also be sure to off the top part right below the orange band to make it look good. If done right it should look like the second picture. I used some heavy duty scissors and a little saw.

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Step 4: Put It All Together

1. Pour your fish in the vase

2. Put your Gatorade rock catcher at the top of your vase so it fits snug.

*Optional* You can buy water drops for your betta fish.

*Optional* Don't be afraid to trim the roots back if they are too long. Don't worry they will grow back!

3. Slip your plant into the vase through your rock catcher.

4. After it is snug and where you want it add rocks to help position the plant upright.

5. Fill in any extra water needed, but keep a little tiny bit of air at the bottom so that the water can get a some oxygen.

*Note* Make sure you feed your fish.

Congratulations Human or Robot you have done it! I really hope you enjoyed my Instructable!

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8 Betta Fish & Flower Vase: This is a great gift idea that costs only $8! Thats right! Everyone who has seen my vase has wanted one and they are super simple to make! You will need:- *1* Betta Fish $2.99 P...

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Butterfly gardening is designed to create an environment that attracts butterflies, as well as certain moths. Butterfly gardening is often aimed at inviting those butterflies and moths to lay eggs as well. Because some plants are not fed upon by adult butterflies, the caterpillar host should also be planted for a bigger population of butterflies.

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MIgardener | Simple Organic Gardening & Sustainable Living

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#1 Bokashi Composter
Available Here

In Bokashi composting, kitchen scraps of all kinds - including meat and dairy products banned from aerobic systems - are mixed with some of the inoculated bran, pressed into the Bokashi bucket, covered with another handful of bran, and tightly covered. When the bucket is full, it is sealed shut and set aside for ten to twelve days. Every other day during that time, the leachate that is an inevitable byproduct of anaerobic composting needs to be drawn off. That's the only care required. (This is very easy with a commercial Bokashi Bucket which has a spigot for this purpose.) When the bucket is opened, the contents, though recognizable, are thoroughly pickled. At this stage, the "pre-compost" as one company brochure terms it can be buried in a fallow spot in the garden. One Caution: It is still so acidic that plant roots should not come in contact with it for two to four weeks.

This brief overview of the process does little to explain how it works. It may help to back up at this point.
Efficient and easy to use! The composting bins and supplies available at Planet Natural will reward you with piles of rich organic matter to use in your yard, garden, or houseplants.
What is Bokashi?

According to Wikipedia, the term Bokashi is a Japanese word that means "fermented organic matter." Whether it does or not, that's what it has come to mean in North America and Britain. The Bokashi host medium can indeed be almost any fine organic grain or grass-like substance - bran, rice, wheat mill run (WMR, a waste product from flour milling), used mushroom growth medium, dried leaves, even sawdust.

This medium is inoculated with beneficial microbes that flourish in anaerobic, acidic environments but smell less foul than do those in unfettered, natural anaerobic conditions. To prepare the inoculant, a brew that will attract the appropriate bacterial strains is prepared, the host material is immersed in it, and the microbes are allowed to ferment. Molasses provides an energy source for the microbes which reproduce wildly for several days. Once the fermentation stage is over, the inoculated host can be dried, packaged, and stored for long periods. Though this is a simplified version of a process that requires several steps, it does describe what we buy when we buy Bokashi.

The bacteria belong primarily to three strains: yeasts, ( Saccharomyces spp.), bacteria that produce lactic acids ( Lactobacillus spp.), and (phototrophic) purple non-sulfur bacteria ( Rhodopseudomonas spp.). These, or bacteria like them, are the active organisms in yogurt and in silage, the fermented hay that is produced all over the world as a livestock feed. All smell sour or fermented but none produce a smell nearly as foul as those associated with natural anaerobic processes.

Bacteria of the types found in commercial Bokashi are all around us. Several on-line sites, including at least one on YouTube, tell how to start and culture a batch of inoculant from scratch, eliminating the need to buy commercial Bokashi inoculant. There's more about this fairly involved process below.

Where Did Bokashi Come From?

Most Bokashi sites state that the inoculant (usually called EM or Effective Micro-organisms) was discovered or developed by Dr. Teuro Higa, a professor at University of Ryukyus, Okinawa, Japan, around 1982 or so. An article by two Hawaiian horticulturists, " How to Cultivate Indigenous Organisms (PDF)," available through the University of Hawaii extension, describes how to find and cultivate the sorts of micro-organisms used in EM - in other words, how to create one's own Bokashi inoculant.

According to the authors of that document, Hoon Park and Michael W. DuPonte,
In Asian countries, including Korea, deliberate collection and culturing of naturally occurring soil microorganisms has been a common agricultural practice for centuries, and application of these cultures to crop soils is believed to minimize the need for applications of inorganic soil amendments.
The process they describe was one common on Korean farms.

This suggests that Higa's contribution may have been the isolation and culturing of particular strains of bacteria rather than the entire process itself. The literature produced by Bokashi companies is rather vague on this point.

Despite its roots in traditional practices, here in the west Bokashi is the new kid on the home composting block. To a large extent it has yet to prove itself. While there's a huge body of independent scientific work establishing the many virtues of both regular compost and of vermicompost, no such body of work yet exists for Bokashi. To a large extent, its virtues are still being touted by the people who developed it in the eighties and who are marketing it today. Most of the studies cited by these companies, especially by the U.S. company with close ties to Higa, appear to have been presented exclusively at the conferences his group sponsored and to have been published exclusively on his websites.

However, there have been several articles in the popular press and numerous testimonials in composting blogs.

How to Use Bokashi?

While the most common use for Bokashi is as an inoculant in anaerobic composting, it can also be added to an aerobic compost pile, added directly to soil, or used to create compost tea for watering plants.

Getting Started

Bokashi is probably one of the least expensive composting systems around. A commercial Bokashi Bucket consists of a five-pound plastic bin with a tight-fitting lid on top and a spigot near the bottom. This may seem a bit steep at almost fifty dollars, but that spigot might be the difference between a process that's easy and one that's unmanageable. The leachate needs to be poured off and lifting a five-pound bucket full of soggy kitchen waste and its run-off is beyond many. A kitchen baster might be useful for this otherwise messy process.

The only other equipment required is the Inoculated Bokashi Bran; a bag of it usually comes with the initial purchase and 2 pound replacements cost about fifteen dollars each.

The process itself is about as simple as it gets. Perhaps once a day you mix your kitchen waste (including meats and dairy products!) with a handful or so of Bokashi (basically enough to coat it lightly) then press them it into the bin, sprinkle another handful of bran over them, and close the lid. (A plate or a layer of plastic over the pile helps seal it against the little air left in the bucket.) Large bones will not, of course, disappear over the course of ten days. The directions recommend cutting up small bones and even chopping other items into small pieces for maximum efficiency. If one chose to skip the chopping step, a few extra days' fermentation time would probably reduce the larger pieces to thoroughly fermented mush.

When the bin is full, cover it tightly and set it aside somewhere in the house where it's out of direct sunlight for ten days or so. Every other day, draw off the liquid, which can apparently be used as a fertilizer (in a very diluted form) or full strength to control slime in drains, pipes and septic systems.

After ten to fourteen days, the waste in the tub should be thoroughly pickled. It can then be dug into a fallow patch of the garden.

Maintenance

Bokashi is an anaerobic process. It needs to be kept as free from oxygen as possible. It's important, therefore, to compress each day's waste flat into the container so as to eliminate any air pockets and to avoid stirring up the previous day's waste when putting in new garbage. One site recommends using a plate to press the food-stuffs flat in the composter. Leaving the plate in place protects the surface of the compost from any air in the composter.

Drawing off liquid regularly helps maintain the environment needed by the bacteria that break down the organic materials. That liquid needs to be used within a day or so.

Troubleshooting

As usual, foul smells indicate that something has gone awry. This diagnosis is a bit trickier than usual because Bokashi does not smell like spring roses even at the best of times. The literature talks about the difference between a "sweet and sour odor," indicating fermentation, and a "foul odor," indicating decay.

Bokashi should not smell like other sorts of anaerobic decay because the inoculating microbes - yeasts, producers of lactic acids, and others - do not produce the sulfuric acid that gives outdoor anaerobic piles their characteristic stench.

If decay does occur, it can sometimes be reversed by adding more Bokashi. If this doesn't work, it's time to dump that batch, scrub the bucket, and start again.

After Fermenting...

The statement that the Bokashi mixture can be dug into the garden after fermenting for ten days shouldn't be confused with the statement that the mixture is done. The on-line description of the bin refers to what's produced in two weeks as "pre-compost" and warns that plant roots should not touch it directly for a week or two; only after a month is it fully incorporated into soil. (Like the anaerobic compost produced by digesters, Bokashi pre-compost is quite acidic when it first emerges from its bin.)

Some people feed pickled Bokashi material to their vermicomposting worms, apparently with no problems. Given how acidic the Bokashi process (and product!) are, and how sensitive worms can be to acidic environments, it may seem surprising that the worms do not react to fermented feedstock, but apparently it's not a problem.

Others put Bokashi pre-compost into their regular composting pile. In gardens, one must remember not to plant anything where the Bokashi was buried for at least two weeks. Burying it in the compost pile eliminates this need. It also solves the problem of finding fallow space in small gardens. While it might seem pointless to use the Bokashi method if you're just going to throw the stuff on the compost heap anyway, this objection misses an important point: while the material that goes into a Bokashi bin would take months to compost in an outdoor pile, the pre-compost breaks down completely in about a month.

The acidic nature of Bokashi means that one should keep an eye on the pH of the pile, especially if one is adding Bokashi frequently.

Brew Your Own

For the independent souls who prefer to do it themselves, several on-line sources are available. First, there's the PDF article mentioned above, "How to Cultivate Indigenous Organisms," by Hoon Park and Michael W. DuPonte. A blog called Paper Bokashi details another method, an in-home process for collecting and brewing the micro-organisms needed for Bokashi composting and for inoculating newspaper with them.

The traditional process requires burying boxes of rice and monitoring fermenting liquids with a thermometer. The recommended host - wheat mill run - is not something that everyone keeps at the back of the pantry.

Just about everyone has old newspapers, however, and these are the host recommended by the blog. Indeed, that version is much simpler all around, requiring no special tools whatsoever and working only with liquids until the newspapers are introduced. The entire operation can be carried out in the kitchen. So while the traditional process can claim romance, the blog describes a process remarkable for its simplicity.

Neither process can be carried out in an afternoon. Any process that gathers, cultivates, brews and inoculates indigenous organisms is a multi-step process requiring long waits between each step.

As an example, here's a summary of the procedure described by Bokashi Composting:

Capture organisms: wash a cup of rice, saving the water, set aside for about a week;

Make serum: add milk to the water; set it aside to ferment for two weeks.

Strain the solids off; mix the inoculating liquid (1 part serum, 1 part molasses, 6 parts water.) Soak newspapers, drain, and seal in plastic bag. Let ferment for two weeks.

Separate the newspapers and let dry.

At this point you're ready to set up a Bokashi bucket. Nothing about this process is difficult; none of the steps take much time. Even with all the waiting for the various fermentation stages, the entire process takes on the order of five weeks.

Related Questions

What products to compost

Hello,

You will be able to source all of the essential elements in order to build a great compost pile without having to look too far! As long as your carbon to nitrogen ratio is optimal (25-30:1) your compost pile will be breaking down properly. Here are some lists of acceptable additions:

Carbon Rich Material "Browns"
Cardboard (free of dyes)
Corn stalks
Fruit waste
Leaves
Newspaper
Peat Moss
Saw dust
Stems & twigs
Straw

Nitrogen Rich Material "Greens"
Alfalfa/Clover/Hay
Algae
Coffee grounds
Kitchen food waste
Garden waste
Grass clippings
Hedge clippings
Manures
Vegetable scraps
Weeds (that have NOT gone to seed)

​Things to Avoid
Meats
Bones
Fats/oils/grease
​Diseased plant material
Colored paper
Coal/charcoal
Cat/dog waste
Manures from carnivorous animals
Onions
Garlic
Citrus peels

As for the rhododendron and holly leaves, you can definitely put them in your compost pile. However, it is a good idea to really chop or shred them up, as they take much longer to break down due to their fibrous and waxy make up. It really depends on how quickly you are trying to create usable compost. It might be a good idea to have a separate pile going that you incorporate those leaves into and another pile that you do not. That way you can have a pile you know will rapidly break down into garden goodness and have yet another ready to use later on. Good luck!

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Bokashi: All You Need to Know | Planet Natural

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In Bokashi composting, kitchen scraps of all kinds - including meat and dairy products banned from aerobic systems - are mixed with some of the inoculated bran, pressed into the Bokashi bucket, covered with another handful of bran, and tightly covered. When the bucket is full, it is sealed shut and set aside for ten to twelve days.

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The GLOBAL IDEAS Blog - Thinking for a cooler world

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A few days ago we received a very inspiring idea from Colombia. The e-mail came from the Centre for Science and Environmental Awareness and it helps to deal with growing mountains of empty plastic bottles.

We learned from the institute's website that in Colombia an incredibly large amount of 15,000,000 plastic bottles is dumped every day. These bottles are not only thrown into trash bins, they are mainly just thrown away somewhere and this way become a very serious environmental problem.

The Centre for Science and Environmental Awareness tries to tackle the problem. As you can see in the picture, greenhouses are built to grow daily goods. The plastic-bottle-roofs have a size of about 3×3 meters. With only 4 hours work a week the roofs help to feed a family for a whole year, writes Carlos Alberto Yepes Vera, director of the center.

He also calls out to donate bottles or similar garbage to build more of these houses. The project's goal, he says is also to build an awareness among the population to avoid the use of plastic bottles.

We are extremely grateful to hear from ideas like this one, so send us more of it!

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Plastic bottles to greenhouses - Ideas - GLOBAL IDEAS Blog - DW.COM

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A few days ago we received a very inspiring idea from Colombia. The e-mail came from the Centre for Science and Environmental Awareness and it helps to deal with growing mountains of empty plastic bottles. We learned from the institute's website that in Colombia an incredibly large amount of 15,000,000 plastic bottles is dumped every day.

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TUTORIAL: HOW TO USE PADLET - Download as a PDF or view online for free

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You're probably well aware of how productive this summer squash can be. Once it takes off, it just doesn't stop producing. You can do lots of things with zucchini, though-cook and serve it in casseroles, slice it up and add it to pancakes, make a low carb alternative to pasta (helloooo, zoodles!), or bake zucchini bread.

Here's exactly what you need to know to grow your best crop of zucchini yet, plus some absolutely delicous ways to eat it.

(Whether you're starting your first garden or switching to organic, Rodale's Basic Organic Gardening has all the answers and advice you need-get your copy today!)

Planting

Zucchini likes well-drained, fertile soil that's been amended with lots of compost. Plant seed outdoors when the soil temperature has reached 60°F-about a week after the last frost. You want to give your squash a lot of room to spread out and grow. Plant them about 3 to 4 feet apart in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. If space is limited, put up a trellis for vertical support.
Related: Make This Delicious Pad Thai Chicken Zoodle Bowl
Watering and Fertilizing

Zucchini like consistently moist soil. To prevent problems with disease, always water from below. Spray plants with compost tea two weeks after seedlings come up. Spray again in three weeks or when the first flowers appear.
Related: Make These Zucchini And Sweet Potato Latkes
Pests and Diseases

Pale to brown blotches on leaves are the work of squash bugs. Squash vine borers cause plants to wilt suddenly. (Here's the best way to protect squash from nasty bugs.)

Powdery mildew may strike the plants, leaving whitish powdery spots on leaves that turn brown and dry. (Here's how to prevent and treat powdery mildew.)

Plants that wilt and ooze a sticky sap when cut may be infected with bacterial wilt, which is spread by cucumber beetles. (Here's how to control pesky cucumber beetles in your garden.)

Harvesting

Harvest zucchini when the fruits are still small-about 4 inches long. Picking zucchinis regularly as they reach maturity promotes more squash production. If your plants are super productive, then you'll want to switch up your cooking methods (a person can only take so much sauteed zucchini, after all). Try turning your zucchinis into zoodles, fritters, veggie burgers, and even chocolate cake! (Here are 7 recipes that will reinvent the way you eat zucchini.)

Fun fact: You can eat the zucchini flowers too! Enjoy them in salads, serve them over pasta, or even try them fried.

You can store zucchini in the refrigerator for about a week.

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You're probably well aware of how productive this summer squash can be. Once it takes off, it just doesn't stop producing. You can do lots of things with zucchini, though-cook and serve it in casseroles, slice it up and add it to pancakes, make a low carb alternative to pasta (helloooo, zoodles!), or bake zucchini bread.