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Properties of rayons can very much vary, and therefore also the quality and sustainability aspects. Taking into consideration

Closed-loop production

What solvents that are used

If the wood is sustainably farmed

Dividing the rayon into the different generations of it to easier separate them. In most cases it is very hard to trace the sources of the garment.

Merit Store. (23 June 2020). Rayon, Modal, Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, Cupro (or Cupra or Cuprammonium) Production, Sustainability [Video]. Youtube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1daBc3lP9xA (Accessed 19 April 2022)

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When it comes to rayon as a sustainable material or not there are multiple angles to consider. When viscose rayon first was invented there were many chemicals involved during the production process. Today there are modernised methods, for example under the brand Lenzing Austria with their tencel fabric. The tencel is usually derived from eucalyptus, bamboo or beech trees and this is claimed to be a greener alternative to the usage of oak or birch trees because it is easier to sustainably farm.

Other positive sustainable aspects of Tencel:

Sustainability certifications: In USA from USDA certified bio based product as well as in Europe under the EU Ecolabel which is internationally recognised quality label for products which have a lower environmental impact throughout its lifecycle.

It is compostable and biodegradable. Made by plants so after its life cycle the material will fully compost back into earth.

Tencel sustainability. (n.d). Sustainability. Available at: https://www.tencel.com/b2b/sustainability (Accessed: 26 April 2022)

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TENCEL Lycocell fibers can be combined with other textiles such as cotton, polyester, wool and acrylic to enhance aesthetic properties as well as performance and function.

TENCEL Modal fibers can create endless possibilities in blending with most other fibers and is most compatible with cotton which will add long-lasting softness with enhanced touch even after repeated washing and will notably improve softness and comfort.

Both the Modal and Lyocell fibers offers multiple benefits such as a more sustainable production, silky softness, gentleness on the skin, color fastness and biodegradability.

But from a sustainability perspective, the blending of different fibres can be problematic since current recycling techniques are bad at dividing different fibres in the recycling process.

Tencel. (n.d) About. Available at: https://www.tencel.com/b2b/about (Accessed: 26 April 2022)

Carlsson, J., Gwilt, A., Larsson, J., Mattila, H., Pal, R. & Torstensson, H. (2017). Re:Textile - Feasibility of conditional design: Organizing a circular textile value chain by design principles (Re:textile Feasibility Series). Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, Högskolan i Borås. ISBN: 978-91-88838-56-8

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Advertisement for DuPont Viscose Rayon in Vogue magazine, 1950. Image source: https://myvintagevogue.com/

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Making Rayon Fiber - Artificial silk, chemical experiment (Accessed: 22/4/22)

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Making Rayon Fiber - Artificial silk, chemical experiment!

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Due to the versatility of the fiber, rayon is used in many different areas. The breathability and moister-absorbance makes is suitable in casual and athletic apparel, but it is common in really all type of clothing (often blended with cotton). Rayon is also an element in e.g. automotive tires and paper.

Nationalencyklopedin, viskos. http://www.ne.se/uppslagsverk/encyklopedi/lång/viskos

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WHAT IS RAYON?

natural OR synthetic?

sustainable OR toxic?

inferior and artificial silk OR an innovative fabric with amazing properties?

Because rayon is derived from wood pulp but at the same time also uses toxic and high energy chemicals during production means that it can be seen as a blend between man-made and natural fiber. Even though it is a fiber derived from cellulose, it is different from cotton, linen and hemp because these are natural fibers that already comes in the shape used.

Merit Store. (23 June 2020). Rayon, Modal, Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, Cupro (or Cupra or Cuprammonium) Production, Sustainability [Video]. Youtube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1daBc3lP9xA (Accessed 19 April 2022)

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APR - Asia Pacific Rayon and traceability

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APR - Asia Pacific Rayon and traceability

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Asia Pacific Rayon innovates a new system of blockchain transparency through the whole production chain from seed to finished garments. For everyone in every instance being able to follow along, step by step through their app and with the use of QR codes. Their slogan builds on

- Traceability

- Transparency

- Accountability

In order for customers to follow the journey of the fiber.

Asia Pacific Rayon. (9 April 2019).

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR)'s Follow Our Fibre Traceability Platform via Blockchain. [Video]. Youtube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my6jiPrOavo&t=2s (Accessed 26 April 2022)

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Asia Pacific Rayon (APR)'s Follow Our Fibre Traceability Platform via Blockchain

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Synthetic Fibers: Nylon and Rayon (1949) (Accessed: 19/4/22)

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Synthetic Fibers: Nylon and Rayon (1949)

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkMy3QMMCXg

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How to Sew Rayon Fabric - Tips and Tricks

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As a man-made fibre, the characteristics of rayon can to some extent vary depending on the processes and chemical treatments used. The following characterisation should therefore be understood as general:

Cellulosic man-made fibres have a low volume of entrapped air, thus the thermal insulation properties of the textile are more dependent on the volume of the textile than on the fibre itself. On the downside, the strength of the fibre is low, especially when wet. The recilience is also poor and the textiles wrinkle easily. On the other hand, the moisture absorbation is high, and since the fibre usually contains moisture, the electrostatic charge is low. Furthermore, it is great for dyeing and printing, and the colours are bright. It is also soft and comfortable, though the fineness of the fibre can vary greatly, as can the lustre.

Ring, W. (Red.). (2014). Clothing Technology. Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel.

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Asia Pacific Rayon. (9 April 2019).

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR)'s Follow Our Fibre Traceability Platform via Blockchain. [Video]. Youtube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my6jiPrOavo&t=2s (Accessed 26 April 2022)

Carlsson, J., Gwilt, A., Larsson, J., Mattila, H., Pal, R. & Torstensson, H. (2017). Re:Textile - Feasibility of conditional design: Organizing a circular textile value chain by design principles (Re:textile Feasibility Series). Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, Högskolan i Borås. ISBN: 978-91-88838-56-8

Melly Sews. (1 May 2020).

How to Sew Rayon Fabric - Tips and Tricks [Video]. Youtube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkMy3QMMCXg (Accessed 21 April 2022)

Merit Store. (23 June 2020). Rayon, Modal, Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, Cupro (or Cupra or Cuprammonium) Production, Sustainability [Video]. Youtube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1daBc3lP9xA (Accessed 19 April 2022)

Nationalencyklopedin, viskos. http://www.ne.se/uppslagsverk/encyklopedi/lång/viskos (Accessed 20 April 2022)

Ring, W. (Red.). (2014). Clothing Technology. Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel.

St Clair, K. (2019). The Golden Thread: How fabric changed history. Liveright Publishing.

Tencel. (n.d) About. Available at: https://www.tencel.com/b2b/about (Accessed: 26 April 2022)

Tencel sustainability. (n.d) Sustainability. Available at: https://www.tencel.com/b2b/sustainability (Accessed: 26 April 2022)

Thoisoi2. (2014) Making Rayon Fiber - Artificial silk, chemical experiment! [Video] Youtube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_AvqnMTJjg (Accessed: 22 April 2022)

Water Footprint Network. (2017). Viscose fibres production: An assessment of sustainability issues. Available at: https://waterfootprint.org/media/downloads/Viscose_fibres_Sustainability.pdf (Accessed 19 April 2022)

US Auto Industry. (n.d) Synthetic Fibers: Nylon and Rayon (1949)  [Video]. Youtube. Available at:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0aF1qao_8Y&t=25s (Accessed: 22 April 2022)

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How and where the wood used to make cellulose is sourced is of importance when considering the sustainability of rayon. Some of the wood comes from endangered and ancient forests. Not only can this be an issue for ecological sustainability, but this can also have a negative impact on indigenous people and local communities by denying them access to land, thereby risking their food security and limiting their possibilities for traditional usage and cultural expressions.

Water Footprint Network. (2017). Viscose fibres production: An assessment of sustainability issues. Available at: https://waterfootprint.org/media/downloads/Viscose_fibres_Sustainability.pdf (Accessed 19 April 2022)

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China, India and Indonesia are the largest producers of rayon today. Those are countries with large and cheap work pools and few regulations. So even though the production of rayon has moved, the social context in which it operates is in many ways the same as before.

Because of the complex manufacturing method, large multinational companies are the main producers of rayon. As few as ten companies account for almost three quarters of all rayon produced globally.

St Clair, K. (2019). The golden thread: how fabric changed history. Liveright Publishing.

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Apart from the usual problems associated with working at a factory, such as monotonous work, noise and long working days, the production of rayon meant exposure to strong chemicals without adequate protective equipment.

The medical danger of the chemical carbon disulphide, used in manufacturing rayon, was known from the start. The symptoms vary from mild to severe, including foggy vision, cramps, reproductive harm, heart disease and even death. The symptom can also be psychological, for instance personality changes, hallucinations and acute insanity. To some, the symptoms proved to be irreversible, even after short exposure.

St Clair, K. (2019). The golden thread: how fabric changed history. Liveright Publishing.

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Nora Nyborg
Malin Morberg
Sofia Malmia

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Rayon, Modal, Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, Cupro (or Cupra or Cuprammonium) Production, Sustainability (Accessed: 17/4/22)

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“Rayon is the most misunderstood fabric on the planet”

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“Rayon is the most misunderstood fabric on the planet”

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Rayon, Modal, Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, Cupro (or Cupra or Cuprammonium) Production, Sustainability

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RAYON - The first synthetic textile material

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RAYON - The first synthetic textile material

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The first rayon factory opened in Great Britain in the beginning of 20th century, and soon spread to USA. During a rapid increase of the industry the following decades the production also became big in Germany, Italy and Japan.

Rayon is made from cellulose but treated with (at its time of emergence) advanced chemical and mechanical techniques. The process results in a soft fabric that drapes well, but can be modified to have many different aesthetic properties.

Quickly after its appearance it became a cheap and practical substitute to natural textile materials.

St Clair, K. (2019). The golden thread: how fabric changed history. Liveright Publishing.

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Rayon was introduced to the market as "artificial silk", but compared to silk it is much cheaper and efficient to produce. This was a big advantage in economically troubled times. During the Great depression the american production of rayon increased by 80% over 5 years (1931-1936).

The first world war obstruct the supply of cotton and linen, which favored the production of synthetics. Similarly, during World War 2 import of silk from Japan was cut. Nylon production was reserved to supply war material. The demand for a material like rayon was consequently big.

At the same time many people were captured and many women were put in forced labour in the textile industry.

St Clair, K. (2019). The golden thread: how fabric changed history. Liveright Publishing.

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Workers at a rayon factory in Cleveland, USA. Image source: http://www.clevelandmemory.org/

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Because of the poor working conditions at the rayon factories, forced labour was common. This in turn meant that the workers often lacked experience and were underaged, malnourished and overworked. This made the workers prone to accidents. Since most of the workers were women, the problematic working conditions at the rayon factories had a clear gender dimension.

St Clair, K. (2019). The golden thread: how fabric changed history. Liveright Publishing.

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Raw fibers of Viscose Rayon

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The cellulose (wood pulp) is first shredded and churned before it is treated with acid and exposed to carbon disulphide, and afterwards left to "ripe", in order to become a honey-like liquid.

St Clair, K. (2019). The golden thread: how fabric changed history. Liveright Publishing.

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The thickened liquid is forced through a nozzle with small wholes into a bath of sulpuric acid. Here the strings hardens and filaments are created. These are then stretched, bleached, cut, (perhaps) dyed and spun into threads, before woven into fabric.

St Clair, K. (2019). The golden thread: how fabric changed history. Liveright Publishing.