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taylorkt completed the lessons Resistors, Diodes, Inductors, Integrated Circuits and 5 others in the class Electronics Class

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Light Up Rooms With Solar Power - DIY 10$ Project - All

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Light Up Rooms With Solar Power - DIY 10$ Project - All

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Introduction: Light Up Rooms With Solar Power - DIY 10$ Project

Solar power is amazing! You can power motors, lights or any electrical device, and they are available all over the world for a very reasonable prices.

In this Instructable I will show you have to use solar panels to power LED lights. The estimated cost for this project is only 10$!

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Step 1: Materials

You think solar panels are expensive? Think again! One 6V 150mA can be bought from Ebay for only 1,5$! You will need 4 of them so that's a total of 6$ worth of solar panels. However, if you want to have really bright LED lights I recommend more than 4 solar panels.
Solar panel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301966354364?_trksid=p205... LED lights: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-3528-5050-5630-5M-RGB...
Wire: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-5-10M-Silicone-Wire-Ca...

The LED lights can also be bought from Ebay very inexpensively. Price will depend on numerous factors like length, type, color and if you require the lights to be waterproof. From this seller I was able to purchas 2m of white 3528 LED lights for only 2$

You will also need a cable long enough to reach from the solar panels to the LED lights. This is also extremely cheap at just a couple of dollars (10m; 20AWG; black).

Note: This is not the materials used in the video. I had everything at home so I only got some solar panels.

Step 2: Solar Panel Connection

The reason why we need 4 solar panels is to achieve the correct voltage and current. 1 solar panel has a voltage of 6 volts, and a current of 150mA. In order to power the LED lights we need a minimum of 12 volts and 200mA (depends on the length of LED strip). That's why we have to separate the solar panels into two different groups.

Basically, take two of your 4 solar panels, let's call them solar panel 1 and 2. Solder the positive pad from solar panel 1 to the negative pad on solar panel 2. Then solder wires to the remaining positive and negative pads on each solar panel. This is what's called conecting circuits in series. What we have done from these two solar panels (1 and 2) is increased the voltage from 6V to 12V. This means, instead of having two solar panels producing 6V and 150mA each, we now have two solar panels working together to produce 12V 150mA. Do the same with solar panels 3 and 4.

By connecting the two serperate groups of solar panels in parallel we can make 1 big solar panel producing 12V and 300mA. This will be more than enough to power several meters of LED lights.

Step 3: Holder Platform

You really don't need to get too fancy here. Take a scrap piece of foam, plastic or anything of that nature (nothing conductive though). I used a square piece of foam larger than what I needed to easily add more solar panels in the future.

All solar panels are waterproof and these cheap panels are very rigid so no protection is necessary. Use plenty of glue to secure them to the piece of foam!

Step 4: Cable/Wire Connection

From your solar panels to the LED lights you will have a rather long cable/wires going in-between. Since I didn't have that long wires in my home, I went with a long cable. I solder the positive wire to the inner pin, and the negative wire to the outer shell of my cable.

Note that the longer your wire, the more power loss you will have. Don't worry too much about the length, but in case you have several meters of unused wire just pushed behind your furniture, you might just aswell cut it off.

Step 5: Panel Placement and Cable Management

Obviously you want to place your solar panel where it will be exposed to the sun, so make sure you choose wisely. Use double-sided tape to attach the holder firmly to any surface, and begin bringing your cable inside to the LED lights.

To secure the cable agains the roof I used a tape resistant to water, but that was a little overkill. You can easily use duct tape.

Step 6: Connecting the LED Lights

Take the other end of your cable/wires from the solar panels and solder an electronic switch to the circuit in order to turn it on and off. This is optional but recommended, if you don't have a switch you could simply solder a connector and unplug when you want to turn it off.

I also used a PDB (power distrubution board) to easier connect more LED lights in the future. However, this step is also optional. If you don't want to use a PDB, you could simply connect the cable/wire from the solar panels to the LED lights and you will have working light wherever you want.

Step 7: Attach the Switch and LED's

Since the LED's are pre-glue you can basically attach it to any surface, which is great because it makes the installation very easy. You can also cut the LED's at certain locations, so if you want to use shorter lenghts of LED's you can do that!

Step 8: Turn It On!

Get creative! Remember that you can purchase the LED's in multiple colors, and don't worry about the power, even on rainy days the LED's will have enough power to stay lit. Also, the more solar panels you connect the brighter the LED's will be.

Want to see more awesome projects like this? Check out my YouTube-channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/RcLifeOnSimon

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Light Up Rooms With Solar Power - DIY 10$ Project

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Solar power is amazing! You can power motors, lights or any electrical device, and they are available all over the world for a very reasonable prices. In this Instructable I will show you have to use solar panels to power LED lights. The estimated cost for this project is only 10$!

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Dual solar shed (regulated and unregulated) - All

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Dual solar shed (regulated and unregulated) - All

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Introduction: Dual Solar Shed (regulated and Unregulated)

The goal of this ible is to show how I set up two small-scale solar systems in my shed to make it more usable. The first is a battery and lighting system (slightly larger) with an old travel panel that I had not used in a long time. The second is a small fan that exhausts the hottest air from the ridge of the roof, through the gable, using two cheap solar cells I had used for small learning projects in the past.

The nice thing of this project is that I will show two solar setups side by side, a regulated setup with a battery, and an opportunistic unregulated setup that uses power as it comes.

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Step 1: Material

The basic tools needed are

The materials needed are

screws

wiring. Preferably UV resistant, but if you don't have it just as I did not, you can keep an eye on it. The actual side capable of high current is hidden in the shed, and the outside wires won't move, so normal wiring will easily last a year or two before it starts cracking. If you can get your hand on CSPE sheathed wiring, then that is your best bed, but it is very pricey and normally very high GA. Otherwise, there are other options that will be more durable than vinyl like silicone and this stuff.

some sort of caulking to seal up the holes (optional)

solar panels. In this case I use

some modular 12v LED lights with a switch

A solar power controller with 12v out (optimal to power LED lights as it means less voltage changes and therefore near perfect efficiency from the battery to the lights; if you are are using this for 5vDC or 120V ac, then there are better options for the same price, like dual usb, or better charge state indication etc.)

a 12v lead acid battery of the size you want. I just used salvage. If you are buying a battery, don't bother buying one with a W/h rating higher than 10x the watt rating of the panel (as this represents a full day of optimal charging).

Step 2: Setup 1: Direct Use of the Power

By using the power directly, when the sun is at its strongest, the fan vents out the hottest air. This will create a very small negative pressure and fresh air will seep in. This is not meant to ventilate per say, it is certainly not enough to properly exchange the air in the shed, but it does help keep the shed not too much warmer than the outside temperature, instead of rising throughout the day.

This makes the setup incredibly simple, just wiring the fan to the panel is all that is required. I glued the panels to a small piece of wood and tacked that to the roof of the shed.

A single cell can be used, but I had two almost identical cells, so I put them in parallel. This increases the power, which means that when the sun is not optimal, it will still run a bit more. When solar cells are under shaded light, they will rapidly reach their full voltage (which affects the speed of the fan), but the power (amps or milliamps in this case) which are required to overcome the resistance of the air and friction, remain very very low until enough light is available. This is why I opted to double power (parallel panels), rather than doubling voltage (series panels). Not only that, but more voltage = more speed = more resistance. In this very low power situation, it would reduce the efficiency (although normally as voltage goes up, these types of systems do become more efficient when amperage is higher).

To wire up the cells, I just soldered the two + sides together and the two - sides together.

Step 3: Setup 1: Installing the System

I drilled a hole in the top of the gable and secured a small piece of screening in front of it. I then screwed the fan over the hole.

The two cells were glued to a small piece of plywood which was tacked to the roof. The wire was fed from under the flashing into the shed, near the location where the fan is secured, and the wires connected.

That's it! Although limited in uses, such a setup is incredibly simple and extremely efficient as there is no conversion or storage of power.

Step 4: Setup 2: Regulating and Storing the Power

Using a solar regulator and a lead acid battery, the power is converted to the proper levels to maintain a safe charge of the battery, and then power is drawn from the battery rather than the panels. In this case, I highly recommend a regulator with a direct 12v output. This way you do not have to waste power inverting the 12v from the battery to 120v AC and then back to 12V DC.

Step 5: Setup 2: Installation of the Panel and Batteries

When setting this up, the battery needs to be connected first, and then the panel second. Once everything is up and running, the 12v can be used to power the lights.

Step 6: Setup 2: Installation of the Lights

The lights were scattered to maximize usefulness. The important part here is to have a switch.

I cut off the end that plugs into the AC adaptor, but not before properly identifying the wires and which part of the connector they corresponded to. I then used a multimeter to check the polarity of the AC adaptor, to make sure I don't invert it.

Step 7: Enjoy

The shed is now much more usable, with more light during the darker times, and less heat during the hottest days.

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

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Dual Solar Shed (regulated and Unregulated)

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The goal of this ible is to show how I set up two small-scale solar systems in my shed to make it more usable. The first is a battery and lighting system (slightly larger) with an old travel panel that I had not used in a long time.

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Introduction: Cardboard Wireless Charger

Cardboard can be the key component for various DIY projects and craft projects. So I decided to use craft cardboard and I came up with a Wireless Phone Charging Stand. This makes a cool addition to my desk setup and with this stand it is easy to see any notification, while I am editing videos or playing a PC game.

So in this project I will show you how to build your own Cardboard Wireless Phone Charging Stand, make sure your phone supports wireless charging before getting started with this project, most of the new phones come with wireless charging enabled.

You can watch the video on how to build this project below.

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Step 1: Components Required

Here is a list of the components and tools required, the list is simple and all you need is -

Step 2: Measurements

To design the case you will need your phone as a reference, you will need a long piece of cardboard, whose width is about the size of your phone, and a height of about 3 times the height of your phone. First draw a line of about 2 cm from the bottom edge of the cardboard and the line should be parallel to the edge of the cardboard. The next line is the about the height of your phone from the previous line to the top of your mobile. (Refer to the video or pictures).

Step 3: Cutting

Similarly follow the reaming lines and you should have something that looks like the above picture. Make creases and cuts as shown in the video and the phone stand should be ready. It would look like the one in the picture, if you make any errors while cutting you can glue it together, wait for it to dry an then continue it. Once you are done, you should have a cardboard phone stand.

Step 4: Wireless Charger

Once the stand is ready, lets start by adding the wireless charger, I found a cheap one for about 5$. You need to open up the charger to reveal the PCB and the coil. You have to pry the board open, if you do not find any screws. You should check the board by powering it up to make sure it did not face any damage while opening it.

Step 5: Desoldering

After you have the wireless charger open you should see the a charging board and a charging coil. You will need to desolder the coil from the board, to remove the coil from the enclosing. The coil is usually stuck to the board using some adhesive, you will need a guitar pick or a flat head screw driver to get the coil out without damaging it.

Step 6: Adding the Coil

After you have removed the coil and PCB from the case, mark the location where the coil goes on the stand. It is usually in the center where the battery is located on your phone. If you are not sure you can solder the coil terminals back and find the exact location by placing the phone on the stand. I used glue to hold the coil in place you could also use hot glue.

Step 7: Adding the Charging Board

Next it is time for the charging PCB to go into place, I had to solder extra wires because the ends of the coil are too short to reach the charging board. Next, you need to cut a slit for the micro USB terminal, which would power the circuit. Just like the coil you could use hot glue to hold the board in place and use some tape to hold the board intact while you stick the board to the stand.

Step 8: Completing the Project

To complete the project add in some tape to keep the wires hidden and add some heat sink to keep the terminals from unwanted contact. After all is done, you can power your wireless charger up and place your phone it and you should see it charging.

You could improve on the charger by adding an instructables logo sticker on it :)

You can support me by subscribing to my channel and hitting the like button for the YouTube video.

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Cardboard can be the key component for various DIY projects and craft projects. So I decided to use craft cardboard and I came up with a Wireless Phone Charging Stand. This makes a cool addition to my desk setup and with this stand it is easy to see any notification, while I am editing videos or playing a PC game.

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Introduction: Musical Shoes

This project is a fun way to create beats while hitting the dance floor. It's also a great beginner level project that uses Arduino, bluetooth, and soft conductive fabric switches.

A few months back I came across an easy way to trigger sound files while being able to choose and change the sounds on a whim. I combined this with my love of making musical interfaces to create a fun and easy project to share.

How do they work? There are three soft switches made of conductive fabric on the bottom of each shoe that are connected to an Adafruit Feather Bluefruit 32u4 board. The board is programmed to be recognized as a bluetooth keyboard so whenever a switch is closed it's read as a keystroke. For example, when a switch closes it's the same as the "n" key getting hit on the computer's keyboard. These keystrokes are mapped to sound files using a piece of free software called Soundplant. The shoes wirelessly connect through bluetooth and each time you tap a toe or click a heel a sound file will play from the computer. Connect a bluetooth speaker to the computer to get louder and better sound!

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Step 1: Gather Materials

Download the attached .zip file. This file contains the design files for the board holder and sole switches. It also has the Arduino sketches needed and lots of sound files for you to play with.

Materials

Pair of sneakers
Veg tanned leather 4-6 oz.
Get enough to cover the bottom of the sneakers with a 3" border all around plus a little extra. I bought a piece of hide from my local leather store for $40 that would cover several pairs.

3/16 (5mm) Thick neoprene

Enough to cover the bottom of each shoe 1 time plus a little extra. I couldn't find neoprene so I ended up buying a generic foam-type performance fabric that is about 1/8" thick. Because it is a little thinner I got enough to cover the bottom of each shoe 2 times. If you can't get neoprene, the idea is to get a material that is firm, thick, and that will not wear down over time.

1/16 (1.5mm) Thick neoprene
Iron-on conductive fabric Conductive thread Feather Bluefruit 32u4
USB cable A/MicroB to connect Feather to Computer
Ribbon cable Barge Cement Adafruit 1/4 size Protoboard 150mAh - 850mAh LiPo battery
To comfortably fit in battery box. You can make the box larger to accommodate a battery with more capacity.

Locking connectors for 4 conductors or male/female headers (the headers may not stay together well while dancing)
2 x mini slide switches 2 x Adafruit pushbutton on/off breakouts Saran Wrap Tools Iron
Scissors or rotary cutter with mat

Soldering iron and tools

Multimeter

Large bowl
Software Soundplant Arduino
Attachments

Step 2: Find Awesome Dancers! (optional)

Or you can rock them yourself. I sought out some real dancers because I knew it would take some serious coordination and dancing know-how to get great rhythms. With some research, I was able to find two incredible professional dancers in the Bay Area:

Agatha Rupniewski AKA Agatron of IRON LOTUS Street Dance Company & BRS Dance Styles
www.ironlotus.dance

and

Jenay "Shinobijaxx" Anolin of Mix'd Ingrdnts
http://www.mixdingrdnts.com/

With a short amount of time in the sneakers, they were able to make cool rhythms and pull some impressive shapes. Here are just a few short clips of them playing with the shoes. Make sure to check out the promo video on the Intro step. It was very hard to choose which clips to include. Hope you enjoy them!
Jenay Agatha

Step 3: Prototype + Feedback

It's always best to start with a prototype when building something interactive. Since the shoes were to be identical I started by making and testing one shoe. I thought about some obvious places where the switches could be. I put one switch on the heel, the ball of the foot, and on the big toe. Everything got taped and velcroed together so it could be removed later. Make sure that the Vecro and tape are strong enough to hold things in place. You want the prototype to hold together well enough to get an accurate representation of the final build.

If the shoes are for you, then you will be making the decisions on where the switches go, how many, + more. I'm not a super good dancer so I looked to the dancers that I had found and contacted for this information. They tried them on did some shimmying and gave me their opinion. Based on their valuable feedback switches were moved and one switch on each foot was given an off/on switch so each shoe could go from three switches to just two. You can see where I marked some new switch placements in the photo above.

Step 4: How They Work

The circuit for each shoe is made of three switches. One switch can be turned "off" so the wearer does not activate it as they are dancing. This came from observing the shoes on the dancer and getting the feedback that simpler was better. This way if three sounds per foot turn out to be too much, one sound can be turned off leaving the toe and heel triggers.

The pair has six switches in total, each switch triggers one sample. The sample can be anything you want. The board used acts like a USB keyboard. I used Soundplant so I could use my own sounds but also tried out the keyboard controller in GarageBand. GarageBand worked but I wasn't able to load and use my own sounds.

Each shoe has a rechargeable LiPo battery with an on/off switch and connects wirelessly through Bluetooth to the computer.

Step 5: Make Sole Pattern

Trace the shoe's sole shape onto a piece of paper. This is your pattern for the neoprene sole you are going to put on the bottom of each shoe. Alternatively, you can print and use or alter the pattern given in the Gather Materials step.

Draw where each foot switch is going to be and what area you want the switch to cover. Cut out each marking and the sole shape.

Step 6: Cut Out Sole Sensor Sandwich

This pattern is used to make your sole sensor sandwich. The final layers are stacked in this order.

1/16" neoprene

3/16" neoprene

1/16" neoprene

Let's make the center 3/16" layer first. Trace around the outer edge and around each switch on the thicker neoprene. My middle material is a little thinner than 3/16" neoprene so I cut an additional two middle layers from the 1/16" neoprene to stack the two together. Cut out the marked switches creating holes in this middle layer.

Now, on to the top and bottom layers. These layers will have the conductive fabric on them creating the contacts for each switch. Trace around the outer edge and around each hole for the three switches onto the 1/16" thick neoprene. Do not cut out the holes, only cut around the outer edge. My cuts are without the heel extension which I needed to add later. The pattern attached to this 'ible includes it!

Step 7: Iron on Soft Circuit

Use the holes cut from the paper pattern to trace a switch shape onto the white side of the conductive fabric. Draw a 1/4" border around the shape and cut out. Repeat with each switch cutting two for each switch that mirror each other. With three switches on each shoe, you should have a total of twelve in the end. Iron them on the top and bottom sole pieces over the markings you made.

The switch contacts are now in place! Time for the rest of the circuit. Cut strips of conductive fabric 3/16" wide. Each sole has top and bottom contacts. The bottom contacts all go to ground on the microcontroller so they all get connected. For the top contacts each gets connected to their own digital input pin on the microcontroller so they get their own trace.

First, place the three traces, cut the traces 1/2" from the extension's edge and iron down. Then connect each trace to its own contact.

Leave enough room on one side for the ground trace to lay, remember you do not want any of the traces to touch each other or a short circuit will occur. Connect all three contacts. Repeat for the other sole.

Step 8: Test Soft Circuit

After ironing the circuit check each connection with a multimeter especially all the points where you ironed fabric on top of itself.

After the connections are checked stack the layers of each sole together to get ready to test each switch. Stitch the layers together using a basting stitch. Clip an alligator lead to the one ground lead and one to one of the switch leads. Press to test, if you hear a beep readily the switch is working! If not, disassemble the layers and check your connections again.

If all the switches are working grab a needle and thread and stitch the layers together around the edge and up the heel extension stopping at the top of the traces. Your soles switches are ready!

Step 9: Add Female Connector

With three switches going to three digital in pins and one common ground, there are four traces in total that you need to connect to the Feather microcontroller. I built two pairs of shoes and needed to use the same two Feather and battery combos for each pair, so I put a connector between the sole circuit and board and battery.

To attach a connector to the sole circuit, cut a small piece of perfboard that is at least 4 rows wide and 3 holes long. Gather female and male crimp pins. Strip off 4 conductors of ribbon cable and cut a short length. Crimp the females pins on and slide them into the connector half with the lock on it. Solder the connector to the perfboard.

Using conductive thread sew each trace to a row on the perfboard.

Step 10: Solder Circuit

Solder the circuit as shown in the diagram. The switch on the ball of the foot is the only one that you can turn on and off individually. This is because it was the one that was easier to hit while standing idle in the shoes. The options gives the wearer more options.

The digital pins 2, 3, and 5 on the Feather connect to each switch contact on the top of the sole and the ground pin connects to all three on the bottom half of the sole. Solder the pushbutton between the battery and the connector taking note of what gets connected to the "in" and "out" pin.

Step 11: Add Male Connector

After the circuit is completed attach the male crimp pins to the end of the four conductor cable.

Step 12: Mold Leather

The switch sandwich goes on the outside of the shoe. It was tried on the inside but proved to be too sensitive. It turns out the actual sole of the shoe is a needed barrier between the switches and the force of the foot. This sandwich needs to be attached to the bottom of the shoe and protected. Veg tanned leather is a great material for this because it works well as a sole and can be molded around and up the shoe then sealed in place. Gather these items:

plastic wrap

medium sized bowl filled with warm water

1 - 2 towels

veg tanned leather

cutting tool

ball-point pen

Trace the sole pattern onto the back of the leather then measure and mark a 1.5" - 2" border all around. Cut this piece out, flip it and use it to cut another piece from the leather.

Place the leather pieces in a bowl of warm water and let them soak for a minute. Take a piece out and squeeze out any excess water back into the bowl. Turn the shoe upside down and start to smooth and stretch the leather around the bottom of the shoe. Stretch the leather up and over the sole's edge creating a wall that travels up onto the side of the shoe all around. Smooth out any wrinkles that occur as best as you can, it doesn't have to be perfect. Secure the leather by tightly wrapping Saran Wrap around where the leather bends up the side of the shoe. Let dry overnight.

Step 13: Create Cases

The circuit and battery get tucked into a case which the on/off switch for power and the middle switch also get mounted to. The case can either be laser cut or by hand. To make sewing easier the holes are precut in the leather. I based my design on one made by my awesome leatherworking co-worker Mikaela Holmes. If cutting by hand the holes can be punched using an awl to making sewing a little easier.
Cut
Use a blade to carefully score where the creases are. Then fold the crease back to open it up and use the blade to shave off the corners of material created by the cut. This creates more room for the material to fold onto itself when bent in the directions it's meant to be. Next, pop in the power pushbutton and slide switch from the back. Press the pin on the slide switch outward so they lay flat. Use hot glue to secure them in place and put some electrical tape over the power switch to cover any exposed metal.
Sew
Double up some thread and knot the end. To begin thread the needle through the first set of holes, grab the end of the thread and make a square knot. Sew together the sides going through each set of holes multiple times. Glue velcro onto the flap so it securely closes over the hardware.

Step 14: Attach Sole Switches

There are three parts to the sole switch case, the molded bottom which you have already made, a strip of leather 1.5" wide and a semi-circle cut out. The strip should be as long as it takes to wrap it around the shoe's circumference where the sole meets and the semi-circle should be cut so it's large enough to cover the heel extension. You can cut out the strip and semi-circle later on.

Take the Saran Wrap off and remove the leather soles. Put the sole switches in them and see how they fit. The leather will be folded in some areas, that's ok. They need to be trimmed anyways. Trim the top edge off of the leather soles as much as you can while still leaving about 3/8" above the sole switch. This will clean things up a bit.

Grab the Barge glue and apply to the inside top edge of the leather sole and on the shoe's side where the sole overlaps. Press the leather sole onto the shoe smoothing out any wrinkles. Apply glue to the leather strip and cover the top edge of the sole with it all the way around to the back. Next, apply glue to the semi-circle and press that over the heel extension to cover it up and secure it to the shoe.

Step 15: Upload Sketch

Connect the board to the computer using a micro USB cable.

Double-click the rightFinal.ino and leftFinal.ino sketches found in the code folder downloaded in the Gathered Materials step to open in the Arduino IDE. For the sake of convenience I've included one for each shoe but if you compare them the only differences are the characters they print when a switch is pressed. You will be told that each needs to live in a folder of the same name. Find the Arduino folder that holds all of your sketches and the two folders created. Drop a copy of the BluefruitConfig.h file in each folder. Hit the Verify button in the Arduino sketch window to check to see that it compiles with no errors. If you get an error check that you have a BluefruitConfig.h in your folders and close then reopen the Arduino IDE.

Connect the Feather to the computer via the USB cable and choose the correct board and port under the Tools menu. If you haven't used the Feather yet you will need to add the board through Arduino's board manager. Adafruit has a great tutorial on how to do this.

Upload the sketch and open the serial monitor. Open your computer's bluetooth preferences. The two Feathers will pop up as a device you can pair with. Choose to pair with both of them and connect to the devices. The blue lights on the boards will go on once they do. Once you pair the boards with your computer it will remember them, meaning when you turn one off and on again it will now automatically connect.

After you connect the boards, go back to the serial monitor and press a switch. A different character will print depending on what switch you press. Cool! The switches are working! A letter will also type in the text field at the top of the window.

Once that is working, plug in the battery and unplug the board from your computer to go wireless. Open a word editing document and press the switches. A character for each switch will type in the doc. Hooray! You have created a wireless keyboard... of sorts. :)

Step 16: Add Case With Circuit to Shoe

Clip the case connector to the one coming from the heel. Stick a length of 1" velcro to the back of the case and on the shoe where you want them to be. I recommend placing them out of the way like on the outer side so they don't get in the way while dancing.

When the battery runs out detach and charge via a micro USB cable using the charging circuit on the Feather

Step 17: Wear and Make Music!

Download Soundplant if you haven't already.

Open the Sound folder downloaded from the Gather Materials step. Drag and drop sound files on the "n", "v", "b", "d", "s", and "a" keys. The switches on the bottom on the shoes correspond to each of these characters. When pressed, each corresponding sample will trigger.

Have fun and make sure to share your creations and any videos of your very own DIY musical shoes!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This project is a fun way to create beats while hitting the dance floor. It's also a great beginner level project that uses Arduino, bluetooth, and soft conductive fabric switches. A few months back I came across an easy way to trigger sound files while being able to choose and change the sounds on a whim.

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Solar Portable easy to carry LED light system - All

# data[].attributes.subject
Solar Portable easy to carry LED light system - All

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Step 1

1) take the dc charger and open it from its casing otherwise you can stick it directly on the panel with hot glue. But in this instructable i have opened it.

2) After opening the DC charger now we will connect the input points with solar panels

(NOTE : connect +VE terminal of charger with +VE terminal of solar panel and -VE terminal of DC charger with -ve terminal of solar panel.)

3) Take 2 lithium ion battery of 2200 mah (3.7V) and connect both the battery in parallel so that voltage will remain same but current will increase.

4) Stick DC charger and battery with hot glue.

5) Take the ipod touch case and cut it according to the wires from where we want it to go through and cur the section for switch as well as shown in the pictures.

6) After connecting all wires according to the circuit shown take the ipod touch case and cover battery , charge controller & switch inside it .

7) With the help of "hot glue" stick the LED light on the solar panel surface.

8) connecting LED lights, in this project i have used 4V LED strip and i have cut down in 3 parts to distribute the light properly.( NOTE : i have connected all the 3 LED light strip in parallel connection so that voltage will remain same)

9) Take the diffuser and place it on the LED light with the help of hot glue.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Solar Portable Easy to Carry LED Light System

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Step 1 1) take the dc charger and open it from its casing otherwise you can stick it directly on the panel with hot glue. But in this instructable i have opened it.

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Introduction: Interactive RGB LED Matrix, Controlled by Twitch Chat.

In this video you can see the LED matrix contolled by other people.

I hang the matrix on a wall, point a camera on it and stream it on Twitch.

The people watching my stream on Twitch can type commands in the chat. (for example !001 red)

With these commands they can give every pixel the color they want.

This makes the matrix an ever changing canvas on my wall :) (if it's online)

.
This instructable is about the idea, what the state is now, and how it came to be.

It's still a work in progress!

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Step 1: It All Started With Ordering LEDs

On the internet i came across some very nice LEDs.

Type WS2812B, addressable RGB LEDs with build in controller chip, so i bought some :)

After they arrived i started doing some experiments,

I used the fastled arduino library to write programs: Fastled library

I can really recommend this library, it makes life a lot easier!

A lot of example programs can be found on this site.

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Step 2: Building the Led Matrix

After a lot of testing with the Ws2812B LEDs, I decided to build a wooden 10x10 grid to put the LEDs in.

You can do this in many different ways, other materials, bigger or smaller,...

In this video u can see the steps i took to make the grid, how i placed the leds and wires,

and in the end some initial testing.

I'm no expert in woodworking and don't have the right tools, but I think it turned out OK.

Also using a LED strip would be easier, i had to strip and solder a lot of wires!

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Step 3: What to Do With It...

Finally, my RGB LED matrix was working,

but what do you use it for?

Inspired by other matrix projects here on Instructables,

I started working on more complex arduino programs.

Again using the Fastled library, there is really good support for matrix layouts.

After a lot of testing, looking how other people solved their problems, adding more and more code, adding a bluetooth module and writing my own app.

I didn't really know what to add more and the project was gathering dust in a corner for a while.

(For building an app, i really can recommend MIT App Invetor 2 I never made one before but with this it's easy!)

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Step 4: Why Not Make It Interactive?

After some time had passed, I started looking to give the matrix a new use.

As a long time Twitch user, and inspired by "Twitch plays pokemon",

I was thinking, why not make this matrix interactive?? And let people from all over the world use it.

And so it went.

The idea was to read Twitch IRC chat with a Python script,

let it do some magic if it sees a pre-defined command, and send the correct info to the arduino

which in turn controls the LEDs in the matrix.

I started really simpel as u can see in the 2 videos.

First only one led on/off

Then changing the colors

And after that the full matrix (the video on top of this instructable.)

It is still a work in progress, more commands and functions will be added.

Even I do not know when and if it will be ever finished. :-)

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# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Interactive RGB LED Matrix, Controlled by Twitch Chat.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
In this video you can see the LED matrix contolled by other people. I hang the matrix on a wall, point a camera on it and stream it on Twitch. The people watching my stream on Twitch can type commands in the chat.