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As part of the post production, I needed to edit my selected photos. Being that I already liked my original seven photos, I didn't want to edit my photos too much and I wanted to keep the post production process simple. With most of the photos, I just wanted to make them brighter so I adjusted the levels and the sharpness. Doing this made the shots clearer, brighter and brought the colours out in the animals. Simple editing such as changing the levels and sharpness had great effects on the photos such as making the white tiger a bright white rather than the grey that I had captured and really bringing out the colours in the parrot. However, some photos, i dont more than adjust the levels, with the white lions photo, I cropped the image, removing the lion and keeping the shot of just the lioness. Also with the monkey, I focused on making the monkeys face brighter apposed to making the entire photo brighter, this was so the monkeys face stood out, showing the details of his face, especially the mouth and eyes as I believe these are the two features which make the monkey look sad.

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The photos to the right are the final photos I have chosen to work with from my photo shoot. The reason I have chosen these photos is because I believe that out of all of the photos I had taken, these seven were the best ones I had captured. The reason I believe this is because I think that all of these photos capture the message I wanted to put across in my photos, this message is, 'Are animals happy in captivity?' The reason by wanting to capture this message is because I wanted the viewers to think about the question when they are looking at the photos. As you can see in the photos, the shots I have selected show the animals looking sort of sad, bored even, I think these shots could really pose the question, are animals happy in captivity, to the viewers. I also chose these seven photos because I think I have captured them with good framing and also captured a good depth of field. Another reason I believe these are my best shots because I have captured most of them with the with the cadges and their enclosures, this is something I wanted to capture in my photos as the viewer will then see that the animals are not wild and are in fact in captivity.

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Before I could do my final photo shoot I needed to do a test shoot, this is so I know what settings would be best to have my camera on. I needed to do a longer test shoot then intended because the polarised filter I needed was not available, this meant I needed to practice taking photos against the glass to work out how to hold the camera in a position where I wouldn't capture a glare on the glass, this took me some time to work out and I eventually discovered that if i held the camera against the glass or used my hand to cover the lens, I wouldn't capture a glare. I also worked out that I needed to have a fast shutter speed so that I would be able to capture the movement of the animals, this also meant that I would need a large aperture so that the camera would allow in enough light to capture the image.

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To complete Unit 57, I had to plan and conduct a photo shoot on my chosen application of photography. After some time looking at the different applications, I eventually decided to plan and conduct a photo shoot on wildlife. The reason behind me choosing wildlife was, not only because I wanted to capture some great shots of wild animals but also because I wanted to do a photo shoot where I would get a chance to use a range of photography equipment such as different lenses and filters and I felt that a wildlife shoot would give me the best opportunity to do this. The planning of the shoot took me some time to do but having it all down on a mind map made viewing it and getting my ideas down on one page much easier. I also came across problems before I even had the chance to do the shoot, when collecting the equipment for the shoot, the filter I needed, which was the Polarised Filter, wasn't available for me to use. A Polarised Filter is placed in front of the camera lens and helps to prevent glare and a shine from the glass, this meant that I had to take more test shot photos then intended so that I could work out a way to capture shots of the animals through glass. However, once I had found some ways of capturing photos without the glare and shine from the glass, I feel that the shot went reasonably well.

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Our third idea was an idea of being speechless. The mouths of the subjects would be covered with tape and there would be quote on a white board that they will be holding. This shoot was taken on slightly different settings than the other two shoots so that the writing would stand out and be clearly seen. The ISO stayed on 200 but the aperture we changed up to 20 so that there wouldn't be a glare on the white board from the studio flash, we also lowered the shutter speed to 1/125 so that the shot would be quickly captured be also allow enough light through to capture the white board, the writing and also capturing the subject and their facial expressions that go along with the quote on the white board.

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The second idea was a cops and robber theme. Same as the first shoot, because we had the two studio flash lights, we didn't want too much light passing through the camera so we kept the same camera settings as the first shoot with the ISO on 200, the aperture on 16 and the shutter speed at 1/160. Again we had the two lights in front of the subjects with one light to the left and the other to the right.

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Our first idea to work on was 'The Tin Man' we covered one of the guys in our group in tin foil, had him start off as a tin man then start ripping the tin foil off to show going from tin to human. To capture our tin man shoot we had the two studio lights in front of our subject, with one to the left and one to the right. Where we was using the two studio lights, we had the ISO at 200, this was so it would be sensitive to the light and capture the glow of the tin but we had the aperture set at 16, this was so that the camera didn't allow too much light, If we had the aperture even slightly lower, with three different flashes going off, the shots would have been over exposed and much too bright. The shutter speed was set at 1/160, this was so it was fast enough to capture the movement of the subject ripping off the tin foil.

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As part of the unit we had to conduct a portrait photo shoot within the studio. We made our planning for the shoot as simple as possible, myself and four other members of my class came together before the shoot and discussed some ideas that we all had, we then discussed which ideas would be the best ones to try and do in the studio. Once we had decided on ideas, we then discussed what we should use for our lighting set up and we decided on using two studio flash lights. The main problem we came across during the shoot was shadowing, where we had the two flash lights, throughout most of the shoot we ended up having the subjects shadow on the background. What would have made the shoot better would have been if we had more lights to work with, that way we would have been able to have the studio lights facing the subjects and also have lights directed at the backdrops hopefully to eliminate the issue we had with the shwdows

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Studio equipment is the basic must haves to be able to capture some good photos in various locations. Some of the following equipment can be used both inside and outside to channel light where you need it and to capture the best shots possible, however, the obvious equipment such as the lights are to be used inside to get the light you need into a particular area. The following list of equipment is the equipment available at my college and the equipment used during our studio photo shoot

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n umbrella is used to enable you to achieve a softer lighting in your images. So instead of letting light directly focus on the subject, the umbrella bounces off the light in different directions. The result is a clearer image with softer shadows or no shadows at all

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The tripod is used to hold and steady the camera.

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The trigger transmitter is used to trigger flash on the studio light and the soft box. The studio light will normally be put on slave mode which will then react to the flash from the master which would normally be the soft box.

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The studio light is a spot light, it can either be used as a constant to illuminate your subject or it can be used as a flash light so that there is no light until the light is triggered, then it is a similar flash to the normal flash on a camera.

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Studio Foil is used to shape and control light. It is used to make a snoot to channel light. To reduce spill light that leaks out of the side of barn doors and to make gobo patterns and shapes.

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A reflector is used for reflecting light and can also be used for the same reason as the Soft box which is to create a softer shadow.

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A modelling light mimics the light pattern the actual flash will produce when fired. A modelling light is useful for prejudging where your shadows, highlights and reflections will be before you take the photo

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Barn doors are fixed onto the front of studio lights. They have four hinged doors around the light that can be moved to control the shape of the light.

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A soft box is a term that describes an enclosure that surrounds a light source on all sides and diffuses the light that escapes from it. Soft boxes are built of lightweight materials, come in all sizes, and are very portable.

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One of the tasks I was given in class was to use the following website; http://camerasim.com/ The task was to use the three simulators;

Focus, Frame, Shoot

Exposure Compensation

DSLR Camera Simulator

The Camera Sim website allowed me to play around with the settings of a camera to get an understanding of what the best settings are, how to frame a subject to capture the best photos, and also what settings to change depending on the different environments.

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Taking photos with a shallow depth of field was done in a very similar way to the macro photography; I used the same shutter speed, aperture and ISO as I did in the Macro photography. With this shoot I wanted to focus on the pendant of a necklace, rather than on a word on a page.

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The task was to capture an image with a shallow depth of field. To do this I used a zoom lens with a macro setting between 200 and 300mm. The aim was to focus on one particular thing, in my case, this was to focus on a certain word on a page full of writing. To be able to do this I had to have the camera set in manual with the ISO at 200, the aperture set at 5.6 and the shutter speed at 1/60. I needed to use a low F/stop number so that I could have a large aperture, this allowed me to focus on just one word on the page, whereas, having a large F/stop number, gives me a smaller aperture which would bring all the other word on the page in focus, which is not the effect I want to achieve.

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I used a wide angle shot with an 18mm lens to capture a deep depth of field shot of my college. The aim was to capture some images with the foreground and the background both sharp. I have done this by having my camera on the manual setting with the ISO at 200, the aperture at 16 and the shutter speed at 1/100. I then stood at the road in front of the college to capture as much of the building and outside as possible. I have had to use a high aperture because it was a very bright and sunny day and after some test shots I thought this was the best aperture to stop it from being so bright. I also needed the aperture to be small so that I could capture the deep depth of field.

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Aperture is the lens opening inside a photographic lens,. The size of the opening in a camera lens regulates the amount of light which passes through onto the film inside the camera the moment when the shutter opens in the camera during the exposure process. The size of an aperture in a lens can be set to auto or manually adjusted using the F-stop shown on the camera such as; f/22, f/8.0, f/5.6 and so on. The lower the F-stop, such as f/5.6, the wider the aperture, meaning more light will be allowed in to the camera, whereas, the high the F-stop, such as f/22, the smaller the aperture, meaning less light will be allowed through the lens.

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Applications of photography are the different sectors of photography, below I have researched the following applications;

Fine Art,

Architectural,

Fashion,

Landscape,

Portrait,

Wildlife,

Sport.

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This is the third shot I took on my shutter speed excersize. The aim was to capture an image of both the car in the foreground and the buildings in the background to both be sharp. I done this by having my camera on manual, the ISO on 200, aperture on 8, and the shutter speed on 1/250. I needed the ISO and aperture to be high so that I could allow a good amount of light into the camera while using a fast shutter speed and also to allow for a deep depth of field. The reason I needed the fast shutter speed is because the car in the foreground is moving and I needed to capture this as sharp as possible, if I used a shutter speed any longer than the car would have been burred and I wouldn't have achieved the shot I needed.

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The second shot I wanted to capture was a shot of a car blurred and the background sharp. I had my camera set at manual, my ISO set at 200, aperture set at 13 and the shutter speed at 1/50. This was easier to achieve than the other two shots as the car was already moving so I just needed to steady my camera and take the shot. However, I did need to have a higher aperture than the other two shots, this is because this shutter speed was longer so if i kept the aperture low, too much light would have gone into the camera, leaving the photo over exposed.

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This is the first of three images that I wanted to capture in my shutter speed excersize. I wanted to capture an image of a car driving down a road with the car sharp and the background out of focus. I managed to achieve this with me camera set on manual, my ISO set on 200, my aperture set on 11 and the shutter speed set on 1/50. the reason for the large aperture is to allow for the depth of field and to also make sure that not too much light comes into the camera because of its long shutter speed, the reason for the long shutter speed is because, to capture the photo of the car sharp, I needed to follow the car by panning the camera from left to right. It was the longer shutter speed and the panning with the camera action which allowed me to capture the car sharp with the background blurred.

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Light Painting is using handheld lights to selectively illuminate and/or color parts of the subject or scene. Light painting requires a slow shutter speed, usually a second or more. A variety of light sources can be used, ranging from simple torches and o ther sources of light such as candles and matches. A tripod is usually necessary due to the long exposure times involved. Alternatively, the camera may be placed on or braced against a table or other solid support.

To capture my light paintings that you can see here, I had to have the camera settings on manual with the ISO at 200 and the aperture at 8, these two settings stayed the same for all of my shots, this was to allow just the right amount of light in and to also make sure that the light was sharp and clear to see. The only setting that I did change for the shoot was the shutter speed, my average speed was 13 seconds, this was so that there was enough time to play around with the lights and capture the light paintings and ideas wanted.

I had my camera set up on the tripod and had other members of my class and I, play around with coloured lights. I also made a stencil, to experiment and see what I could capture. I made a stencil of a light bulb out of black card, I needed to use black card so that none of the light would shine through the paper. Once I had the stencil just how I wanted, I put it on the front of a box with a glow stick inside, this actually worked really well and i manged to capture a couple of good shots.

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Shutter speed is a setting on your camera which controls the length of time the shutter is open, allowing light through the lens to the sensor inside your camera. Shutter speeds can go from very small fractions of a second, to several seconds long

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This was the final task of Unit 57. I had to take one of my final edited photos and turn it into a magazine cover. I done this by taking my edited photo of the lioness, duplicating the layer of the photo and using the lasso tool to select the lioness. i then removed the background and added the title writing of 'Wildlife' by doing this I was able to get the effect of the lioness in front of the title. Once I had done that I then added the BBC logo on the top right and the caption of, 'Are wild animals happy in captivity', I also added the two captions that can be seen over the lioness. I also added the 'New Edition' sticker, the reason i done this was to break up the page and give the cover more writing, I also done this to make the cover my own and make it different from the covers I got my ideas from. Along the bottom of the cover, I added a bar code to make the cover more realistic and I also added some of the other edited photos I had taken.

I am impressed with my magazine cover and I do believe I have managed to get it at a near professional standard. The photos to the left are the magazine covers I got my ideas from and I believe my cover is to a standard just as good as the ones shown.

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This was the fourth shot I took with my camera, for this shot I changed my location slightly again so that I would have a better looking photo as an outcome, as you can see, in the shot there is a building, cars and a bike shed so there is more to look at than just some trees. to capture this photo I took what I discovered from the first three and put them all together. To stop the camera from moving I used some blue tac to stick it down to one of the bollards outside of college. I then opened the shutter for fifty seconds and the result was a much clearer and sharper photo with detail of the building and other surrounds and hardly any blurring at all.

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This is my third attempt of taking a photo with my pinhole camera. For this shot I changed my position to allow for my light into the camera. I also left the shutter open for 45 seconds. This shot is much steadier than the first two as it has little burring but its still slightly under exposed.

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This is the second photo I took. After taking the first I could see that is was under exposed, so for this one I left the shutter open for thirty seconds. After developing the photo, you can see again that this photo is also under exposed and also burred.

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This was the first shot I took with my hand made pinhole camera. The aim was to capture a shot of some trees, I set the camera into the position I wanted and I left the shutter open for twenty seconds. As you can see this is a bad photo, it is under exposed and because this is a negative, it is too bright, rather than your normal image, when it is under exposed it is dark. I also didn't manage to keep the camera still so there is a lot of blurring.

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Once the photo has been captured in the pinhole camera, the next step is to get the print developed. To do this you need a dark room and the chemicals to process the photo. When going to develop the photo you need to ensure that the room you are in is in complete darkness other than the safelight which is normally a dim, red light. The safe light has no effect on the photos and wont ruin them, like exposing the photo paper to normal light will. the safelight is needed so that you are able to see around your dark room.

STEP ONE

The first thing that needs to be done is the photo paper removed from the pin hole camera and placed into the tray containing the developer chemical. The photo will need to be in the developer for around 2 to 3 minutes, it needs to be constantly moved around slightly, either by moving it with tongs or by gently shaking the try.

STEP TWO

The photo then needs to be removed from the developer tray and placed into the tray containing the stop chemical, you photo only needs to be in this tray for around 30 seconds but again, it needs to be constantly moved.

STEP THREE

After removing the photo from the stop tray, it needs to be place into the tray containing the fixer chemical. it needs to be in this try for around 1 minute and as the same in steps one and two, the photo needs to be constantly moved.

STEP FOUR

When your photo has been through all three chemical trays and has developed, it needs to be placed into a water bath and left for around 5 minutes. After that is done the photos can then be hung to dry, this takes a few hours but once dry, you then have your final, pinhole photo.

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Pinhole Camera - 'An Oceanic Ghost Forest'

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Pinhole Camera - 'An Oceanic Ghost Forest'

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This photo was captured on a Zero Image 2000 pinhole camera. This picture was simple and quickly captured by only needing an exposure time of two minutes. In this photo you can see how it was an overcast day but the sun is just breaking through above where the photo is taken causing this great glow around the top of the photo. In the far background you can also see large rocks sticking out of the ground giving the photo a focal point, the white stones in the foreground also really stand out.