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Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park & World Heritage Site

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Watch this video and witness one of nature's greatest spectacles. Discover Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park & World Heritage Site, a legacy that is truly beyond beauty.

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Tubbataha reef video showcases the kinds of animals that reside in the reefs

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Tubbataha reef video showcases the kinds of animals that reside in the reefs

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Philippine Siren Tubbataha & South Visayas 2015

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Atlantis Azores Liveaboard Dive Yacht Philippines

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Tubbataha Reef in the Philippines. Beautiful diving.

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How Tubbataha was saved

Shimmering shafts of sunlight illuminate a dreamlike scene. In the distance, a school of silver jacks flow over the reef, while nearby two large green turtles casually cruise above a carpet of hard corals bustling with anthias. Among the patches of sand, white tip reef sharks rest while the larger grey reef sharks patrol over the drop-off. This to me, is the epitome of how a healthy reef should look but here at Tubbataha, in the Philippines, this was not always the case. This utopia has been hard fought for.

Tubbataha, being exposed far out in the Sulu Sea and uninhabitable, was for millennia naturally protected against over-exploitation. With calm seas between only March and June, a natural quota was enforced on the fishing grounds. That was until the arrival of motorised fishing vessels in the 80s followed quickly by the industrialised fishing fleets. Suddenly Tubbataha's rich bounty became an easily reachable target with abundant fish stocks, in a country where other fishing grounds were rapidly in decline. Along with the conventional fishermen, so arrived those that used dynamite and cyanide. And so began the destruction of paradise.

Fall and Rise

Today the trees that adorn the islet of Tubbataha's lighthouse are dense with rare seabirds. Beneath them, dark oval shadows move slowly back and forth across the lagoon. These are endangered hawksbill and green turtles and they are here in abundance, safe from everything except their natural predator - the tiger sharks that occasionally show up.

This place has indeed been pulled back from the brink and that is due to a group of forward thinking divers and conservationists that stepped in to prevent Tubbataha's destruction. Realising the importance of this unique reef - the only true atoll structure in the Philippines - they lobbied the government with a well-organised campaign and in 1988 Tubbataha became the first national marine park in the Philippines.

UNESCO followed in 1993, declaring it a World Heritage Site due to its outstanding universal value, exceptional natural beauty and significance for protected species. Over the coming years as the protection and enforcement strengthened, Tubbataha recovered and today the reefs are simply wonderful.

The importance of these decisions cannot be overstated. This 97,030-hectare marine park is home to a staggering 360 species of coral and 600 species of fish. On the small islets, more than 100 different species of bird have been recorded, including the endangered Christmas Island frigatebird.

The protection afforded to Tubbataha makes it one of the last known safe breeding habitats in Southeast Asia for seabirds with seven species nesting here.

Studies have proven that the reefs found in these two huge coral atolls and the nearby Jessie Beazley reef are key sources of coral and fish larvae and they actually help seed the surrounding Sulu Sea. If this area had been destroyed the cascading effect would have been incalculable.

Divers, who were key to initiating the protection of these reefs, continue to play the major part in Tubbataha's ongoing protection. Money raised from the park entrance fees and diving permits is translated directly into enforcement initiatives that protect the park from today's threats, and educational initiatives that help prevent the threats of tomorrow.

Dive tourism actually contributes no less than 54 per cent of the revenue of the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park, with the rest of the funds coming largely from allocations from government and private sector donations. For example, the radar at the ranger station was paid for by funds donated by Swiss luxury watchmaker Jaeger LeCoultre.

Enduring Appeal

The enduring appeal of this place to divers is obvious. Steep walls that rise from abyssal depths characterise the diving here, with some so steep they are even inverted. Many are adorned with colossal barrel sponges that hang precariously in defiance of the strong currents that whip over the reefs, bringing nutrients, and helping to spread Tubbatahas goodness to other parts of the Sulu Sea.

The sponges compete with huge sea fans for space on often densely packed walls, and as you ascend to the edge of the drop off it's here that you may encounter the pelagics - visiting whale sharks, mantas, mobulas and even great hammerheads are drawn towards these atolls.

The reef tops are carpets of hard and leather coral and home to the schooling fish that Tubbataha has become famous for: trevally, barracuda, humphead parrotfish and batfish all congregate between the shallows and the edge of the reef. Every dive on Tubbataha is different, some dives quiet, some dives electric - as you enter the water, you simply don't know what's going to turn up.

The challenges of overfishing and poor reef stewardship have long been a struggle for the Philippine nation, yet the Tubbataha lighthouse now stands as a symbol of hope that this country can learn from its previous mistakes and preserve its natural heritage for future generations. The question that remains, is can the rest of the world do the same?

KEEPING WATCH OVER THE REEFS

'Secluded, lonely and thoroughly essential' are the terms that describe life for the 12 rangers that form the front line in keeping Tubbataha safe from unwanted visitors. During their two-month long tours this multi-skilled team patrols the reefs, briefs tourists and help with scientific research, operating under guidelines laid down by the Tubbataha management board.

They have to deal with frequent illegal fishing intrusions into these waters, which in particular try to harvest top shells, which are sought after souvenirs.

Tourists bring welcome company, and spirits were high when I visited - a patrol had just returned having had a close encounter with a large tiger shark in the lagoon. Visits from apex predators are no less exciting for the rangers than they are for the rest of us!

CONSERVING A WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Angelique M Songco once worked as a divemaster on boats that visited Tubbataha and witnessed first hand the threat to these reefs. For the past 15 years she has headed up the Tubbataha Management Office, leading an organisational model that other conservation efforts in the coral triangle aspire to - she talks to Steve about her job

When did you become aware of the importance of the marine environment in this region and the need to protect it?
When I first came to Tubbataha in 1982 the reefs were in very good condition and fish life was profuse. Over the coming years we could see the reefs degrading and we knew something had to be done before Tubbataha was lost forever. The Presidential proclamation in 1988 was a lifeline for Tubbataha, but it was going to take years of protection before the area would start to recover. Real enforcement did not come until 2000 when the ranger station was set up and in parallel we've been developing our conservation model constantly to improve the protection for this unique area and respond to emerging threats.
Please tell us about the vision and approach of conservation efforts in this region
Our vision is to ensure that Tubbataha is protected in order to maintain ecological integrity, sustain economic development and contribute to the equitable distribution of benefits. We do this through responsible stewardship and partnerships with interested parties, including governmental organisations, the educational sector and the private sector. We have a guiding principle of participation and recognise the support of the locals is paramount if we are to succeed.
What alternatives exist for local fishermen and villagers that have been affected by loss of fishing rights? Education forms a key principle of your conservation programme - tell us about how it became so prominent?
Maintaining the support of the fishermen is one of our biggest challenges! We support the poor communities affected by loss of fishing rights with 10 per cent of tourism revenues from the park for livelihood activities that support education, health, basic commodities and emergency needs. However, from the time that Tubbataha became a 'no-take' zone, the local Cagayanon fishermen started to observe increased fish catch in surrounding waters and they began to view marine reserves as a way to increase the productivity of their reefs, some declaring protected areas in their own municipality. In this way, Cagayanons have been empowered to protect and manage their own reefs and contribute to wider efforts to save coral reefs in the Sulu Sea. Seaweed farming is also being encouraged as an alternative to fishing, and farmers are given support for their new businesses.
Does conservation feature in the day-to-day education within schools and do they teach the value of the marine ecosystem for the long-term well being of the Philippines?
Our educational outreach programmes have been running for the last five years and we have prioritised communities that have fishermen who have been arrested in Tubbataha. Most fishermen take it well, even though in one of the villages the majority of them had been arrested! Their issues were clarified, however a recent study has indicated that while compliance is high, some of the fishermen only comply because they are afraid of being arrested again, thus proving that enforcement is needed as a key principle along with education.
What are the notable successes so far?
Yes this is being developed and we are working with the Department of Education to integrate modules on conservation and climate change in the curriculum of students.
What are the top threats to the region?
We have many successes we are proud of. The passing of the Tubbataha law in 2010 was a key milestone. We've achieved our objectives with coral cover and the population of fish and seabirds has also increased. We are also extremely proud that Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park is featured on our highest denomination of currency, the 1,000 Peso note, as it indicates national pride in this World Heritage Site
Finally, what is your perspective on the overall outlook for Tubbataha?
Of the ones outside of our control and enforcement, one of the top threats is marine debris and this is increasing. We have seen strangled birds even in the last few weeks. Increased ship traffic also increases the risk of oil spills, ships' groundings and debris. Climate change is a huge threat that we are powerless against: Currently the water temperature is 29 to 31 degrees. At this temperature, coral bleaching can occur.

The potential impact of rising water temperatures is our biggest fear. Despite all our efforts if the temperatures continue to rise we will lose so much of our successes and there will be nothing we can do about it. Our organisational outlook is healthy and we have solid support from key partners.
More of Steve's work can be seen at www.millionfish.com
Steve travelled to Tubbataha on the superbly run MV Discovery Palawan http://www.discoveryfleet.com Special thanks to Yvette Lee and Chester Lee of the Discovery Fleet for their support in production of this article. More information on Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park can be found here: www.tubbatahareef.org

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How Tubbataha was saved Shimmering shafts of sunlight illuminate a dreamlike scene. In the distance, a school of silver jacks flow over the reef, while nearby two large green turtles casually cruise above a carpet of hard corals bustling with anthias.

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Even with conservation efforts, Tubbataha still faces danger

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Even with conservation efforts, Tubbataha still faces danger

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PUERTO PRINCESA, Philippines - The changing sea currents, aggravated by rising sea levels brought by climate change, are slowly eating up Bird Islet in Tubbataha Reef, the last intact seabird habitat in the Philippines.

The islet, located in the North Atoll of the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park (TRNP), has shrunk, from a land area of about 1.4 to 1.5 hectares since it was first recorded in 2004, to just 1.1 hectares, said Angelique Songco, head of the Tubbataha Management Office (TMO).

"Bird Islet is the primary habitat for seabirds in the Philippines," Songco said. "So if we lose it - it would be a great loss to us."

Latest TMO data show that the two islets in TNRP - the Bird Islet in North Atoll and South Islet in South Atoll - now support at least 38,500 seabirds.

"They are all congregating in that small islet," and yet it's diminishing in area "so it does not bode well" for their ever-growing number, Songco said.

Considering most of the seabird species breeding at TRNP are threatened at national or regional levels, since last year it has been included in the East Asian-Australasian Flyway Partnership (EAAFP), an international network created to conserve migratory birds and its habitats.

According to TMO, TRNP is home to no less than 100 species of birds. It serves as the main rookery and breeding ground of the following seabird species:

TMO also said that "it is the only known breeding area of the Worcestri subspecies of Black Noddy, one of the few breeding areas of Sooty Tern and Brown Noddy" in the country.

The critically endangered Christmas Island Frigatebird ( Fregata andrewsi), regularly appearing 5 at a time, as well as the Chinese Egret, Swinhoe's Storm Petrel, Eurasian Curlew, and Black-tailed Godwit, also seek refuge in the islets on TRNP, according to TMO.

Believed to be locally extinct over 20 years ago, the Masked Booby reappeared again on Bird Islet on May 11, 2016.

If no interventions are put in place, TMO Researcher Retch Pagliawan believes it would lead to losing the breeding ground for those seabirds.

"If the erosion of the islet continues, eventually it might disappear and the seabirds will lose their habitat," she said, adding it is particularly noticeable on the northeastern part of Bird Islet.

Pagliawan said the islet's vegetation area has also decreased, thus speeding up the erosion.

The TMO has sought help from the University of the Philippines-Marine Science Institute (UP-MSI). An oceanographer and geologist from UP-MSI will conduct a study in April 2017, and will propose biodiversity-friendly measures that could halt the erosion, Pagliawan added.

Songco said they are currently "referring to other studies, other interventions done in other locations on how they stop beach erosion."

"We are going to do those interventions next year," the protected area superintendent said. "Bringing all of the materials to Tubbataha is going to be a strenuous activity, but we have to do that because seabirds are important to us."

Asked if the situation in Bird Islet is still manageable, she said: "Is it alarming? Well, if we don't do anything it's going to get to that point." - Rappler.com

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Eroding Bird Islet threatens seabirds at Tubbataha

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PUERTO PRINCESA, Philippines - The changing sea currents, aggravated by rising sea levels brought by climate change, are slowly eating up Bird Islet in Tubbataha Reef, the last intact seabird habitat in the Philippines.

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Several endangered sea turtles make their homes in the Tubbataha reefs

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Several endangered sea turtles make their homes in the Tubbataha reefs

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Tubbataha reef is very biodiverse and contains many sea rare animals

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Tubbataha reef is very biodiverse and contains many sea rare animals

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The reef has many different types of colorful coral

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The reef has many different types of colorful coral

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Tubbataha reef is home to many colorful marine animals

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Tubbataha reef is home to many colorful marine animals

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There are multiple efforts to protect the diverse species that reside in the Tubbataha Reefs. There is a team of marine park rangers made up of the Philippine Navy, the Philippine Coast Guard, the local government unit of Cagayancillo, and the Tubbataha management office. In addition, there is even a law in place that makes it illegal to damage the reefs or the animals living in it.

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The Tubbataha Reefs are one of the most biologically diverse places in the world, and also one of the most threatened. A main threat to the reefs is the illegal catching of fish necessary for the balance of the ecosystem.  Another threat to the reef is the trash that animals may accidentally eat and die. Climate change is another threat that can make coral go into a bleached state and die, the loss of coral could destroy homes and food sources for many animals.

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The reefs are protected and not being used for fishing or hunting. It is mostly well known for tourism, and people wait years just to dive there because it it known as one of the best dive sites. It is strictly prohibited to fish there and people found illegally fishing are arrested.

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The Tubbataha Reefs are a marine protected area located in the middle of the Sulu Sea near the Phillipines and also considered part of Cagayancillo, which is a quiet island town whose inhabitants are fishers. The reef is mostly made up of two coral atolls, called the north and south atolls. Tubbataha reefs cover 97,030 hectares (374.6 sq mi), and it is considered the center of world marine diversity. Inside the reef you will find over 600 species of tropical fish,  about 359 species of coral, 14 species of sharks, and 12 species of dolphins and whales.