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Lay down the 1/4 round steel by the holes you just drilled. Cross the keys over the rounds and gently lay down the flat steel. Line up the screws and gently tighten them. Watch that the rounds are not right under the flat piece. As soon as the keys start lifting up, STOP. You want them to not move but not be too tight

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It is a good idea to drill a small pilot hole... about 3/32" for the screws. It makes it easier to screw and stops splitting. Hold down the steel piece and drill into the wood

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Clamp and drill a hole in the top of the Kalimbe. A 1-1/8" hole is good. Make sure not to drill into the sides!

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By now the wood glue should be dry. Use the scroll saw to trim the edges flush and sand everything really well.

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Use a drill press and a 5/32" drill bit. A hand drill will work, too. Drill on each end of the flat bar where the punch mark is.

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Before you drill steel, center punch it. You are looking for a nice dimple but not a GIANT crevice. Make the punch marks about 1/2" from each end. Here's a pic of the flat bar, center punched and ready to drill, and the 1/4" round steel.

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The 1/4" rounds and the flat bar need to all be the same length, about 4" long. Use a hacksaw in a vice. Teach the kids to go STRAIGHT in a cut across, don't worry about pushing down. The blade will do the work.

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This can get loud.
Use hammers and a hard, metal surface, like a vice bed, to bash the metal flat. The pieces will be about 1/8" wide when done. What we are doing is changing the structure of the steel into a SPRING. If the pieces get all bent it is because the hammer is not hitting FLAT. Straighten them in a vice. This is a GREAT time to talk about Blacksmithing!!

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4" long pieces are about this size

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Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies

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Use side cutters to cut the thin 1/16" wire into 4" long pieces.

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I use table clamps but you could use heavy boxes and books, c-clamps, etc. Make sure all the edges close.

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Spread a thin layer of glue on the rest of the pieces. Less is better! ( this pic shows WAY too much glue) :-)

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The line from cutting can be opened a bit, glued and held with tape to dry.

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If you use a scroll saw or band saw, the kerf (material removed by blade) is thin enough to cut straight through than glue later. Hollow out a space, leaving a 1" wide wall. Do not cut into the "No Cut Zone"! Do this ONLY on the thick piece!

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I use a scroll saw fitted with basically the thickest blade I can find. (The kids will have fewer breaks) Cut out the outside profile on all three pieces. (2 thin, 1 thick)

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Discuss what shapes are appropriate (simple, wide, personal), try some designs than sketch onto one of the 1/4" pieces of wood. Add a "No Cut Zone" where the metal keys will be screwed in.

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Each kid will need these tools but they can share, right?
-A hammer
-A center-punch
-Side cutters.
-Scroll saw or jig saw
-Drill with 3/32" and 5/32" drill bit
-Hacksaw for steel.
-Smooth File
-Vice
-A hard metal surface to pound on. (a vice bed is good)
-Green Robertson screwdriver (number 2)

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I use 1/4" plywood and 1" thick pieces of pine, cut into rectangles about 6"x8". Most lumber supply places or HDepot will help cut pieces for a small charge. You will also need, per student...
-1/4" round steel, 8" long.
-1/16" steel welding wire, 16" long.
-A piece of 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide and 4" long piece of steel.
-2 #8, 3/4 long round head Robertson screws.
Welding supply places will sell the welding wire and any steel supply place will have the steel. It is all cheap and easy to find.

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Please email me at stu@stumitchell.org and I can give you a password so you can contribute.

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Please email me at stu@stumitchell.org and I can give you a password so you can contribute.