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Reminder - your final exam is available using the SOCRATIVE (STUDENT VERSION) apps.

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If you have not downloaded it yet - pls download the SOCRATIVE apps (student version) it will ask for Room name/number - type in GIGIMORRIS and you can access the exam. Pls answer them as thoughtfully as you can. Thanks!

PLEASE THE REST OF THE NOTES AND REMINDER IN THE FOLLOWING POSTS!

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To give everyone a chance to prepare for our last day presentation, we will start our class from 6 PM onwards.

If you have prepared a PowerPoint presentation - you can upload them here for ease in presenting. Thanks!

I'm ordering pizzas and sodas - of course, if you want to bring something, you are welcome to as well!

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Homework: Hi everyone - in addition to your AI assignment, please look through your closet and bring 2 or 3 favorite garments in the class. Explain and critique the elements of design that make you like the garment.

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STORYTALE QUIZ

Once upon a time...

Fashion Design: Elemenst of Design

Details & Trimming

Texture

Sihouette

It is the general outline of the entire outfit. Also called the shape and form of the dress.

QUESTION 01

Color

Details & Trimmings

Texture

All right!

This elements of design is about the features of the garment. It has two main purpose; aesthetics and functionality.

QUESTION 02

Details & Trimmings

Fiber

Texture

All right!

it Describes the body and surface of fabric or dress by itself. It can be rough or smooth, coarse or fine, thin, light or bulky, plain, light or heavy. It can also be any combination of these characteristics.

QUESTION 03

Color

All right!

Texture

Fabric Weave

It is the element of design that designers use to create a different feel, look and theme without really making a huge impact on the costing of the apparel.

QUESTION 04

All right!

Manufacturing Industry

Fashion Communication

Retail Industry

last segment to evolve in the field of the fashion industry. This is the segment of the industry that connect it with the market.

QUESTION 05

Congratulations!!!

Play again...

FASHION DESIGN: Elements & Principles of Design

Gigi Morris, NAFD (Nevada Association of Fashion Design)

Every day is a Fashion Show & the World is the Runway. - Coco Channel

www.gigimorris.com

NOVEMBER 2021

FASHION design

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN

DAY 6

UNLV/NAFD Program

START

Stephanie Rolland

This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND

Texturing Fabric by Weaving

Texturing Fabric by Weaving

Plain weave (tabby weave)

commonly used basic form of weaving. Each weft yarn simply goes over and under each warp thread which is called the under-over pattern. Most novice weavers start by learning the plain weave before going to any complex patterns.

Texturing Fabric by Weaving

interlacing yarn or thread together on a loom to make woven pieces of fabric. It is typically done by creating a loop around two warp threads at a time.

Texturing Fabric by Weaving

wrap your weft around over a certain number of  warp threads (usually 4) before drawing them back under the last two warp threads and the process continues repeatedly.

Texturing Fabric by Weaving

weaving pattern that is done by passing the weft yarn over and under two or four warp threads with a "step" between rows to create a diagonal pattern.

Texturing Fabric by Weaving

Knotting and other combinations

Incorporating knots and playing around with the other patterns of weaving.

https://www.muezart.in/blogs/muezart-musings/5-tapestry-weaving-pattern-and-techniques-every-beginner-need-to-know#:~:text=Plain%20weave%20(also%20known%20as,going%20to%20any%20complex%20patterns.

Reference:

Lucy Jennings

Lucy Jennings of Creativity Patch

Spruce & Linen

Weaving by Gunta Stolzl

@quoialexander

Texturing fabric by heat

Texturing fabric by cut and sew slashing

Texturing fabric by water solubles fabric

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STORYTALE QUIZ Once upon a time... Fashion Design: Elemenst of Design Details & Trimming Texture Sihouette It is the general outline of the entire outfit. Also called the shape and form of the dress. QUESTION 01 Color Details & Trimmings Texture All right! This elements of design is about the features of the garment.

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START

UNLV/NAFD Program

DAY 5

ELEMENTS & PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN

FASHION design

NOVEMBER 2021

www.gigimorris.com

Oops ....

Oops ....

Oops ....

READY TO DIVE INTO THE BUSINESS OF FASHION?

Custom-made Fashion

Ready to Wear

Chambre Syndicale de la haute couture

Couture

Pret-a-porter

Haute Couture

The World of Fashion

Founded in 1868 and then known as the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture

Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne on December 14th 1910

Only those houses and companies that are approved each year by a dedicated commission run by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture and held under the aegis of the Ministry for Industry may become eligible for it.

Haute Couture

https://www.fhcm.paris/en/our-history

Haute Couture

Prices in this category are the highest.

An evening gown can cost $50,000 and more. These creations are normally seen on top fashion runways.

Some fashion houses only present them to selected clients. Very little couture apparel is made but almost always they inspire the mainstream fashion scene.

https://www.fhcm.paris/en/our-history

Haute Couture

Prêt-a-Porter is a French term for ready-to-wear (RTW). The garments in this category come in basic sizes, are less expensive, and are produced in larger quantities.

The Pret-a-Porter Industry

The dollar amount a consumer pays for apparel is determined in different price points.

The Pret-a-Porter Industry

The dollar amount a consumer pays for apparel is determined in different price points.

Price Points in Pret-a-Porter Industry

DESIGNER - In the Prêt-a-Porter category, apparel belonging to this price point is the most expensive. Just like in Haute Couture, they are seen on top fashion runways and targeted to the very wealthy client. They are sold in fashion houses like Armani, Chanel and Donna Karan.

Price Range Category

BRIDGE - This category costs more than the "Better" category but less than the "Designer" category; thus the term "Bridge". This line is targeted to clientele who want designer lines but don't want to pay, or sometimes can't afford to pay, for its price tag. It is for the client who can afford or able to pay more than the "Better" line price tag. Many design houses have developed an "almost designer's" line in a little less expensive category. They are often referred to as diffusion lines. DKNY and Armani X are examples of brands that fall into this category. Ellen Tracy and Adrienne Vittadini lines also fall into this price point category.

Price Range Category

BETTER - "Better" lines are nationally known brands that cost more than an average price point but less expensive than Designer and Bridge categories.

Anne Klein, Liz Claiborne, Jones New York are examples of Better category price points.

Private label merchandise carrying a retailer's name or its own unique line like J C Penney's "Worthington" or Nordstrom's "Talbot" lines fall into this category as well.

Price Range Category

MODERATE - "Moderate" lines are typically sold by many nationally known sportswear brands such as Guess?, Levi's, Gap, and Banana Republic.

Many times these companies also make "Better" lines.

Retailer's also carry "Private Label" merchandise that fall into the "Moderate" price point like Macy's "Charter Club" line.

Price Range Category

BUDGET or MASS - This line is usually sold by mass merchandisers and by discount stores. The price tag is the least expensive of the price points. Mass retailers carry private merchandise sold in this price range like Kmart's "Kathy Ireland" and "Jaclyn Smith" line. Production of apparel lines belonging to this price point are in the greatest quantities.

Price Range Category

Private Label products are those ¨manufactured by a contract or third-party manufacturer and sold under a retailer's brand name.¨ You can find private label products across a wide array of industries, such as personal care, cosmetics and apparel & fashion.

Private label merchandise

BUDGET or MASS RetailersEx. Walmart:- Walmart's brands, price range from $5 to $35 include women's apparel brand Time and Tru, plus-sized women's clothing line Terra & Sky, kids apparel under Wonder Nation and men's clothing under the name George.

Private Label Merchandise & Price Range

This class has provided you with tools & Key to

unlock tHE design PROCESS

What's in a Tech Pack?

Tech pack or Technical Package is a detailed blueprint describing a product's design so it can be manufactured accurately to achieve the look desired by the designer.

A Tech pack is typically a document created by designers, technical designers, and product developers.

https://techpackexperts.com/tech-pack-prices/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw06-oBhC6ARIsAGuzdw2Qr4JtgzDRPpEJisGBVSl42AJ9hqJbkD620G7nc2uLboLV3Ceh6R4aAjvaEALw_wcB

CALAhttps://ca.la/

Loosely, the term means "made specifically for someone." But it can be defined as well as:Unique items created individually by a craftsman, artisan, or tailor. Each custom product can be designed to meet the client's size, color, dimension, outlook, etc. These one-of-a-kind items bring the client's idea to life, and their production involves client input at each step.

Custom-made

YES, As designers YOU are "manipulatOR" of elements & Principles of Design

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START UNLV/NAFD Program DAY 5 ELEMENTS & PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN FASHION design NOVEMBER 2021 www.gigimorris.com Oops .... Oops .... Oops .... READY TO DIVE INTO THE BUSINESS OF FASHION?

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Here's a reference book I have written for this class several years ago.  Except for the new technology used in the fashion,  all the basics I covered here are still relevant and are still practiced in the fashion design industry. I am hoping  that in this class you have acquired the "tools and the key".  Many updated information can be unlocked by the use of internet and technology. Hopefully, someday, I can take still find time to update it.

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Here's a reference book I have written for this class several years ago.  Except for the new technology used in the fashion,  all the basics I covered here are still relevant and are still practiced in the fashion design industry. I am hoping  that in this class you have acquired the "tools and the key".  Many updated information can be unlocked by the use of internet and technology. Hopefully, someday, I can take still find time to update it.

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Sharing notes and learnings I have acquired in this lovely industry!  You can freely download them if you wish!

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NOVEMBER 2021

FASHION design

ELEMENTS & PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN

DAY 2

UNLV/NAFD Program

Let's learn more about the early 20th Century Fashion from Zoe Hong (1900-1920)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViNDmCX3DOw

YES, YOU CAN DESIGN!

YOUR ROLE AS A DESIGNER IS TO CREATIVELY MANIPULATE THE ELEMENTS OF DESIGN.

ready for your homework presentation?

Personal Favorite clothes & some Fashion of the Past

INTRODUCTION TO THE

Fashion occurs in global environment

Fashion arena covers large base of fashion related careers in design, manufacturing, marketing, retailing, and yes, entrepreneurship!

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur.

SEGMENTS OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

Where do I get inspiration to create design? How does design process begins?

THE CREATIVE PROCESS

UNLOCKING THE DESIGN PROCESS

INTRODUCTION

ELEMENTS OF DESIGN

The general outline of the entire outfit. Also called the shape of form of the dress.

SILHOUETTES

SILHOUETTES

SILHOUETTES

SILHOUETTES

SILHOUETTES

SILHOUETTE

USING FABRIC SWATCHES - CREATE A MOCK ILLUSTRATION OF THE BASIC SHAPE OR SILHOUETTE AND OTHER MODIFICATIONS.

A line Skirt as base with lace trimmings

A pencil cut skirt with cut inserts and fabrfabric inserts and cutouts

fast fashion

Genius or Crazy or Social Activist?

Jeremy Scott

Milan Fashion Week 2014

Genius or Crazy or Social Activist?

Jeremy Scott

WHAT TO PREPARE FOR THIS CLASS?

PEN, PENCILS, COLOR PENS

DRAWING PAPER/

FABRICS

E-TEXTBOOK/

Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu.

History Lessons in Fashion

Michael Kors

https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424127887324328204578569412757658202

ASSIGNMENT FOR NEXT WEEK

Assignment:

1. Study forecasted trends for 2022-223

3. or Come up with your own related "scenario"

from mood board to preliminary line sheet

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NOVEMBER 2021 FASHION design ELEMENTS & PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN DAY 2 UNLV/NAFD Program Let's learn more about the early 20th Century Fashion from Zoe Hong (1900-1920) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViNDmCX3DOw YES, YOU CAN DESIGN! YOUR ROLE AS A DESIGNER IS TO CREATIVELY MANIPULATE THE ELEMENTS OF DESIGN. ready for your homework presentation?

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Here is the link to the Day 1 Lecture presentation.

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Hi everyone - sharing with you some fashion figure templates. You can use them freely as you wish - would be lovely if you can cite and credit it!

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Final Presentation and Summary of learnings!

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Final Presentation and Summary of learnings!

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This is the last day of the class and as part of your final class requirement, you will work on this "project". I would really appreciate to hear the summary of your learnings from the class. You can "communicate" it by creating a line sheet, a mood board, a design idea, or even an outline presentation of your learning summary in the class. No hard and fast rules here! Be creative, dress up, bring props, people and friends, create a vlog, create a website, build a portfolio, etc. Just make sure, whatever "project" you present in the class, you communicate and showcase your class learnings.

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Can technology help you improve your "design communication skills"?

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Can technology help you improve your "design communication skills"?

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There are many technology tools available in the online market for designers to use. Research for more tools and present in the class how it can be helpful to you.
You can even go further and try it out to come up with new design ideas to communicate.

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Turn Your Drawings Into Images in Seconds - NewArc.ai

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Turn any sketch into a photo with our AI sketch to image generator. Visualise your ideas in realistic photos and 3D renders, ready in seconds!

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Suggested Learning activity outside the classroom.

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Suggested Learning activity outside the classroom.

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Class sharing and homework: Are you a better fashion critique now? :-) Do you always look through your closet and starts analyzing them. Do you now find yourself looking at interesting garment made from interesting fabric, foundries and other accessories and details? Do you shop now with more critical eyes?  This is our second week and you must be gaining more confidence now of your ability as designer.

Alternatively, you can also visit a fabric store and requests for some interesting fabric swatch and accessories.  You can also research for new fashion ideas from established or indie designers. Use technology tools and share them in the class. You can bring to class your sample garment or sample swatches, or upload your presentation and be ready to discuss in the class.

In the creative world, collaboration is always the way to learn and make ideas work!

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Last day of the class is also a "DRESS UP DAY!!" Dress to showcase "who you are or who you want to be or whatever fun you want to wear" :-)

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Last day of the class is also a "DRESS UP DAY!!" Dress to showcase "who you are or who you want to be or whatever fun you want to wear" :-)

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Design novel is a design platform capable of helping designers create their lines by taking sketches and give feedback on designs, generate pieces to match, help select fabric. It can also data analyze trend patterns and give reports on market analysis.

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History

1. 2021

Selected as a solution supplier for the 'Data Voucher Support Project' by the Korea Data Industry Promotion Agency.

Proceeded Market Sensing Project with 'GS Retail' through Keyword Trend, Image-Centered Portfolio Analysis and Image AI Search.

Completed resolution and similarity test of designs generated by Automatic Design Generative AI with "Korean Testing Laboratory(KTL)"

National Top honor of Minister Prize AI Contest

2. 2020

Series A (3 billion won) investment attraction

Selected as Microsoft 'Startup Acceleration Tier 1 Program'

Selected as NVIDIA 'Inception Program'

Selected as a solution supplier for 'AI Voucher Support Project' by the Information and Communication Industry Promotion Agency

Released AI flower incorporated apparels with "E-Land Retail"

Launched the new brand 'de MonZ' with 'Lotteon', utilizing Auomatic Design Generative AI.

Proceeded the project of AI Trend Prehension Dashboard Contruction with 'Shinsegae International'

Proceeded the project of AI Trend Prediction and Consumer Analysis with 'PPB Studios'

Released apparels with 'Comodo' by utilizing Automatic Design Generative AI, reflecting the theme of "beachcombing"

Completed the perfomance test of Fashion Data Analysis (NER, Search Ranking, Trend Anaylsis, Demand Forecast, Inventory Optimization, and etc), Design(conditional generation) AI Technology, and Prediction of Sales Volume for Inventory Management through 'Telecommunications Technology Association(TTA)'

3. 2019

Selected and completed Google 'Google for Startup'

Proceeded the project of AI data based subdivided analysis of consumer with 'F&F'

Top of the World in ICCV "Fashion IQ Challenge"(Unitary Model, 3rd place in total)

Presidnet Prize of K-Startup King of Kings

4. 2018

Selected as TIPS program for technology development R&D business by the Ministry of SMEs and Startups

Naver D2SF 'Campus Tech Attack 2nd' selection and completion

Attracting seed (1 billion won) investment

Participated in KIC Washington-Halcyon Showcase, USA

Selected as a resident company in Google Campus Seoul

Released AI generated items with Hyundai Department(Handsome SJYP), utilizing Automatic Design Generative AI.

The Grand Prize of POSCO 'Idea Market Place'

5. 2017

Designovel founded

The Grand Prize of University Technology Startup Idea Contest in Pohang

The Grand Prize of POSTECH 'Guamegi Startup Competition'

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AI 인공지능 솔루션 디자이노블

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How did 1920s fashion help to make the Roaring Twenties roar? Bernice had bobbed her hair; French tennis star Suzanne Lenglen was fueling the sportif craze; the taste for all things Art Deco carried over into fashion; and Chanel had slipped women into something more comfortable-the Little Black Dress. The LBD was deemed such a closet mainstay that Vogue drew a comparison to Ford's revolutionary Model T of 1908. In an article in our October 1, 1926 issue entitled "The Debut of the Winter Mode," Vogue captioned a sketch of a black, long-sleeved frock that fell just below the knees: "The Chanel 'Ford'-the frock that the world will wear is model 817 of black crepe de chine."

On our covers, we celebrated the decade with illustrations from the likes of Georges Lepape, Benito, and William Bolin. A harmony of linear elements that appear plucked from the sketches of the forthcoming Chrysler Building, these illustrations helped feed the Art Deco frenzy. Fashion-wise, women were dressed in cloche hats, tubular silhouettes with drop waists, and handkerchief hemlines boldly skimming shins-which were on show for the very first time.

A breakdown of all these 1920s fashion trends and more, below.

Women's Trends of the 1920s

The Tomboy Look

While the archetypical woman of the 1920s wasn't yet ready for a full-on menswear-inspired moment (that would take a few decades-about five, for Saint Laurent's Le Smoking), she was here for the "La Garçonne" look-which was boyish, not manish. A play on words with the feminine article for the French "man" La Garçonne-style aimed to unsculpt the female body, with silhouettes that draped over her curves-no pinching or hugging. The look also called for a shorter hemline, which had previously been permissible only for young girls who could not yet embrace their femininity via fashion.

The house of Premet championed this aesthetic. In a February 1924 feature entitled "Interview with Couturiers," Premet's Charlotte Révyl remarked on the gendered balancing act of the La Garçonne look: "Nowadays, with cut hair, tiny hats pulled down over the eyes, bateau necks or other little collars, long sleeves, and boyish figures, we have absolutely nothing feminine left, unless we see the pretty slender ankles."

The Bob

Even before F. Scott Fitzgerald cemented the bob as the 'do of the decade in his much-read short story "Bernice Bobs Her Hair," published in May 1920 in The Saturday Evening Post, the bold were test-driving the cutting-edge look. In 1915, dancer Irene Castle, who purportedly cut her hair for ease following a surgery, kept her ear-length hair in place on a headband across her forehead; it was such a distinctive look that it came to be known as the "Castle band." Other memorable bobs belong to the vampy silent film star Louise Brookes, whose angular jet-black bob stole hearts in 1928's Howard Hawks film A Girl in Every Port, and Josephine Baker, who slicked hers down with sculpted locks into Kiss curls.

The look wasn't just for vixens of the screen and stage; it was a well-adopted style that went mainstream. By February of 1926, Vogue reported: "In a week of nights spent at smart restaurants in Paris or New York, one might never see a single distinguished head in the Lady Godiva tradition. The bob rules."

Skirt Hemlines Rose

Nary a knee was on show during this era (it's a common misconception that flappers wore dresses above the knee) though the daring flapper might have flashed them whilst seated! Hemline historians cite 1926 as the peak of this trend, with dresses and skirt hemlines rising; at first, skimming the ankles, then up the mid-shin, then just below the knee. All the while, flesh-colored stockings sheathed the leg.

Flapper Style

What Was a Flapper, Anyway?

Think of the descriptor of flapper as being synonymous with trendy. The flapper look was the prevailing trend, and flappers were those girls who dressed the part. But it's a term with a bit of a backstory-some thought the term referred to youths who opted to unbuckle their galoshes, letting them flap with each step. Others trace flapper back to a Victorian term used to describe (clutch your pearls!) young prostitutes. It took some consideration to rebrand flapper. In 1917 Vogue titled an article "The Term 'Flapper' Carries No Stigma." By 1920, Frances Marion released the film The Flapper, starring Olive Thomas and the rest was history. Every girl wanted to be a flapper.

The Cloche

The fashionable lady of the 1920s wouldn't step outside without her hat. Come nightfall, however, she'd leave it behind. Following the craze for oversized pancake hats in the 1900s, the 10s and 20s saw a gradual shrinking of ladies' hats into the coche style. Popularized by milliner Caroline Reboux in 1908, the hat style gets its name after the French word for "bell." It was also the perfect pairing for the bob-a helmet-like hat for a helmet-like haircut.

The Little Black Dress

Slick and sumptuously understated, Chanel's 1926 little black dress in a crepe de chine was entirely modern. The look embraced black as a fashion color after a long and sorrowful history as the hue to mourn in. Plus, the LBD's unfussiness was a striking departure from previous modes. Fabric-wise, the silhouette Chanel put forth could be constructed in a variety of textiles, encouraging a democratization of couture look as it was very re-creatable. The look was such a mainstay; the little black dress was appropriate for day and eveningwear; jersey by day, chiffon by night-chic all day long!

The Robe de Style

Lesser celebrated, though no less prevalent, was another novel silhouette of the era dubbed the Robe de Style. In sync with the era, this silhouette showcased a bit of leg, but unlike the tubular look, there was a bit of body. The dress typically featured a gathered and expansive skirt but with zero waist on show. It reads as diaphanous, floaty, and highly feminine. French couturier Jeanne Lanvin is most associated with the Robe de Style, but she was one of many designers who offered a girlish alternative to the boyish La Garçonne look. In a 1923 feature on French actress and fashion darling Regina Camier, Vogue cites how "Aided and abetted by Lanvin...Camier made many converts to the Robe de Style."

Top Designers of the Era

Gabrielle Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jeanne Lanvin, Callot Soeurs, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, Madame Chéruit, Paul Poiret, Norman Hartnell, Sonia Delaunay, Jane Regny, Jeanne Paquin, and Premet.

Men's Trends of the 1920s

If, during this decade, Paris gave the final word in womenswear, London set the tone for men-particularly a certain gentleman by the name of Edward VIII, then Prince of Wales. Suits went down from three to two pieces, and pinstripes were a popular choice, as were tweeds and flannels; anything that evoked Savile Row tailoring and English country living, as epitomized by the Prince. Two pant trends uphold this tweedy aesthetic: the Oxford Bags (a wide-leg pant said to be inspired by those worn by rowers at Oxford) and the plus-fours (worn for golf). On their heads? A Magritte-style bowler hat.

In the Culture

The Harlem Renaissance lit up the world and gave it something to listen to, with jazz musicians and bandleaders like Duke Ellington setting the soundtrack for the decade. A 1923 Broadway show, "Runnin' Wild," gave the world the jazzy dance 'The Charleston,' and over in Paris, at the Folies Bergère, Josephine Baker was holding court. Speaking of courts, in the world of tennis, French sensation Suzanne Lenglen teamed up with couturier Lucien Lelong to serve some major fashion looks that carried over into ready-to-wear.

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A 1920s Fashion History Lesson: Flappers, the Bob, and More Trends That Made the Roaring Twenties Roar

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Vogue unpacks 1920s fashion, from the decade's prevailing trends to the era's top designers.

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One from the archives! I first published this post back in 2011, and it proved one of my most popular reference posts, and my most pinned/reposted images and content. My original aim was to provide a quick-reference guide to the key features of 20th century fashion eras to illustrate the evolution of style through the years, and to encourage a system of categorisation thinking outside the decade-by-decade box. Categorising by decade has never sat right with me - just about every decade in the 20th century saw major style changes and innovations: a frock from 1941 could hardly be more different from a Dior-influenced late 40s number, and an early 60s dress is poles apart from a 1968 mini or tunic-and-flares ensemble. Even the fifties, so closely associated with the hourglass shape, had already started moving away from Dior's 1947 New Look and towards boxier 60s styles by the latter years of the decade (Dior launched dropwaist styles as early as 1954). So I propose to classify eras based on defining styles and trends. I'm focusing here on post-1920 as clothing earlier than that is generally considered historical rather than vintage fashion.

Flapper c1923-1929

Flapper is a general classification since not everyone during the twenties was a flapper, but all fashion during this period was certainly influenced by the movement. The waistline had been gradually becoming less defined over the late teens to early 20s, and by 1923 had made its exit, with a lean silhouette and clean lines echoing the Art Deco movement. Fabrics were all about drape, flow and movement. Uneven "handkerchief" hems (where the hem falls into points), and skirt godets (as seen in the 1929 dress above) were popular; cocktail- and eveningwear often featured beading and fringe. Hemlines were rising higher than ever before, hitting knee-length by 1926. In keeping with the sleeker, streamlined silhouette, hair was bobbed and the cloche hat was in its heyday. Around 1929 the waistline began to re-emerge, but was not accentuated - often shaping would be achieved through little more than some gentle ruching at the waist.

Old Hollywood early-mid 30s

Waistlines regained some definition from around 1930. Through most of the decade the silhouette remained long and lean, with hemlines around mid-calf. This is the era of liquid satin bias-cut gowns and floaty florals exemplified by the stars of old Hollywood and the wardrobe department of television adaptations of Agatha Christie's Poirot. Art Deco influences are seen, especially in larger buttons and inventive seaming of bias dresses. Popular detailing during this period included puffed, flutter or frilly layered sleeves, and neckline interest in the form of bows, jabots and outsize collars.

Swing / WW2 Era - late 30s - c1946

There was quite a rapid style shift between 1937 and 1939 as the long, lean silhouette transitioned into the 1940s swing look. Elegant gathers and shirring replaced the ruffles and frills of the early 30s; rayon fabrics showed off the ruched and draped details. Although kimono sleeve styles were not unheard of, sleeves were generally set-in; puffed shoulders and understated leg-o-mutton sleeves in the early war years developed into square, padded shoulders, as "man-tailoring" influenced fashion trends. Skirts were flared and swingy in the late 30s and early 40s, but narrowed to a slim A-line by 1946 due to fabric rationing and "utility" guidelines. Hemlines once again rose over the same period to around knee level.

New Look 1947 - 1957

You don't need a diploma in vintage fashion to know that in 1947 Christian Dior launched his "New Look", the ultra-feminine antidote to wartime austerity, which revolutionised the way women dressed. In defiance of cloth rationing (which was still in effect in Britain until 1949) ladies adopted mid-calf length, full skirts. Gone, too, were the the masculine, square-shouldered styles of the war years; femininity was reinforced (influenced by the international drive to draw women back into the home?): the fashionable silhouette gained slightly sloping shoulders: dolman, raglan, cap and smoothly set-in sleeve styles dominated. The waist was nipped in for an exaggerated hourglass figure, assisted by structural underpinnings and cinchers. The 1950s look avoided any sartorial "middle of the road"-ness, so skirts were either bodaciously full or pencil slim; collars were either demure Peter Pan or dramatically popped wingtips; hats were close-fitting Juliet caps and cloches, or extravagant platters.

Mad Men Era late 50s - early 60s

Although nipped-in waists continued to be popular, the late 50s saw the rise of a looser-fitting silhouette, defined in boxy jackets, straight skirts and swing coats. When skirts were fuller they tended to be gathered or A-line rather than cut on the circle. Detailing was generally unfussy, although girlish flourishes such as frills and bows were also popular. High, boat and 'jewel' necklines were popular, with short or elbow-length sleeves. Hair was worn mid length, either big and bouffant (Jackie O) or in a beehive updo.

Mod, Hippie, Boho late 60s - 1970s

Mod is the shortest of my fashion eras, but no less iconic for it. The miniskirt, A-line shift dresses and bold monochromatic or colourful psychedelic prints defined the fashion world. Almost as soon as it had begun, Mod started to give way to Hippie styles, which in turn morphed into soft, Bohemian and Victorian revival fashions.

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20th Century Fashion Eras - Tuppence Ha'penny Vintage

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One from the archives! I first published this post back in 2011, and it proved one of my most popular reference posts, and my most pinned/reposted images and content.

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Sketches and line drawing, pictures, actual samples are some of the tools we used to communicate our design ideas to our patternmakers, seamstresses, customers, etc.
We can either be scared of technology or use it to our benefit. Before we go further with this reflection question. First thing first :-)
1. Create a basic line sketch of a garment design idea.
2. Let's try technology to help us "communicate" our design idea better.

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I like the fashions of 2024

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The fashion of 2024 lets a woman show her body more.

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Padlet - Visual Collaboration for Creative Work and Education

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Beautiful boards and canvases for visual thinkers and learners. Used by 40 million people worldwide. Get started for free.

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African American 70’s fashion trends👌🏾Notable trendsetters were: Pam Grier, Angela Davis (political pioneers). Music artists: Diana Ross and The Supremes.

Black revolutionary movement was taking place with Malcolm X and The Black Panthers in the fore front. The Black arts movement emerged between the 1960’s-1970’s. James Browns’ “I’m Black and I’m proud was also was pumping through the airwaves so Black Pride was in full swing🥰

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Groove into the Past: The Essence of 1970s Black Fashion List

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View the Top 10 Most Popular Black Fashion 70s Trends and Styles: 1. Afro 2. Dashiki 3. Platform Shoes 4. Maxi Dresses 5…

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Fashion Design 1930-1939 “Decade Overview”

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Fashion Design 1930-1939 “Decade Overview”

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A blouse or dress that provides a stylish yet understated appeal for an alluring vibe!

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In the 1930s, fashion saw a profound influence from films and specifically Hollywood. Men’s, women’s, and children’s styles were based on fashions seen on screen with stars like Clark Gable, Jean Harlow, and Shirley Temple among the many who directly influenced fashion. A return to conservatism afte…

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Early 1960s followed many 50s trends. By the mid 1960s. there was a transition from long 50s skirts into mini skirts. Many people tried more polished fashion inspired by Ivy League colleges. Space Age fashion became widely popular (as well as space age architecture + interior design) as a result of the space race and growing interest in sci-fi series such Star Trek.

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Wunderlabel
® Lab

The sixties are a socially revolutionary decade - social protest movements like the legendary '68ers emerge, Woodstock celebrates the peak of hippie culture, and conventions and traditions are generally broken. This change is also clearly reflected in the fashion world of the sixties. From now on, the street wear of the swinging London of the sixties determines the creations of the haute couture designers, the miniskirt shows a lot of bare skin and the hippies oppose the materialistic logic of exploitation.

Fashion trends of the early sixties (1960-1962)

The change of a decade does not necessarily lead to new fashion trends. At the beginning of the sixties, the ideal of elegant women's fashion, whose greatest role model was Jackie Kennedy, continued to prevail. Only gradually did new trends emerge that would prove revolutionary in the middle of the decade.

Femininity and Feminine Elegance

First Lady Jackie Kennedy is considered a style icon. Costumes with short jackets embellished with oversized buttons, worn with skirts and stilettos, exude femininity and elegance. Gloves, pearl jewelry and a matching hat complete the perfect outfit.

For an evening out, women swap the stylish pencil skirt and blazer outfit for a sparkly, slimming evening gown, often paired with a blouse. At the beginning of the decade, men prefer slim-fit suits with thin ties, as worn by Frank Sinatra or Sean Connery in James Bond.

The fifties trend continues.

Sleeveless like Audrey Hepburn

By the mid-1960s, many garments, from dresses to form-fitting shirts, lacked sleeves. The style was pioneered by Audrey Hepburn, who wore a sleeveless Givenchy dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Another popular garment is the "little nothing" - a simple sleeveless dress with a low-cut blouse, which can also take the form of a loose-fitting shirt.

Capri Pants - Alternative to Skirt

In the early 1960s, women's pants took off, competing with suits and skirts. Once again, it was Audrey Hepburn who spread the fame of capri pants with legs that ended at mid-calf. But other pants, such as the classic Levi Strauss jeans, are becoming more and more a part of women's everyday wardrobes. The cuts vary from tight to loose, with knee-length legs or even just above the knee. Over the course of the decade, shorts become popular.

Breakthrough of the Bikini - Hollywood Makes It Possible

Although the bikini was invented in France in 1946, it took until 1963 for the two-piece to break through in the teen movie Beach Party. The skimpy garment fits perfectly with the trend toward openness. However, it would take several more years before it spread to the beaches of the world.

Single Girl and Working Girl - Women's Independence

Books such as Sex and the Single Girl and The Feminine Mystique promote women's financial and sexual independence from the male world, which is reflected in the world of fashion. Fashion photography of the time portrays women in a completely new way: young, active and economically independent, always in motion and sporty. Parallel to the Single Girl, the counterpart of the Working Girl emerges, representing the independent woman who has full control over her own body.

Ivy League - Forerunner of the Prepper Look

Polo shirts, Harrington jackets, khaki chinos and striped shirts with sporty blazers, sweaters and knitwear characterize the style of Ivy League fashion. This sporty-conservative look of the northern U.S. college campus anticipates the prepper look.

Fashion of the Mid-Sixties (1963-1966)

By 1963, the break with the conventions of previous years was gaining momentum. Fashion was much more daring, experimental, and innovative. The look of the street increasingly inspired the world of high fashion, which in turn propagated entirely new ideals of beauty.

The Space-Age Look - Futuristic Designs and Synthetic Materials

In the sixties, the race for the first moon landing during the Cold War, science fiction comics or series like Star Trek also inspired the fashion world. Synthetic materials, chunky accessories, and angular shapes characterized the space-age look. Designers such as Pierre Cardin used PVC and polyester for the first time in their creations, which could also be used in everyday life. In addition to short plastic raincoats, floor-length coats, helmet-like hats and faux fur are all the rage.

Swinging London becomes the Fashion Capital of the World

By the mid-sixties, fashion in London could no longer be ignored. The influence of the colorful, youthful look of the London fashion scene was particularly evident in men's clothing. Fashion trends had changed little in the previous 150 years, but suddenly bright colors and new elements such as collarless jackets paired with tight trousers and boots were everywhere. This influence even extended to the classic suit. These also became more colorful and sometimes even patterned, replacing the narrow ties of previous years with much wider models.

Military Jackets - Metal Buttons, Shoulder Patches, and Epaulettes

Even before hippie fashion used parkas and military jackets to protest the war in Vietnam, rock stars like Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger were wearing military-inspired clothing to perform on stages around the world. The cover of Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band featured the Beatles in colorful variations of military jackets. No wonder, then, that secondhand military apparel stores boomed toward the end of the decade.

The Mini Skirt - From King's Road to the Catwalk

Designer Mary Quant is credited with inventing the miniskirt in 1964 - although Andrè Courrèges may have been involved, and it's not clear who actually made the first miniskirt. What is certain is that the short garment made its way from London to the fashion world. By definition, the length of the skirt is about 6-7 inches above the knee. Its name comes from the Mini Cooper - Mary Quant's favorite car. While the British version is designed for the masses as the Chelsea look, Courrèges' structured and sophisticated design is more accepted by the French fashion world.

Flares and Bell Bottoms - The Trend Moves to Wide Legs

Beginning in 1964, low-rise flares with a wide leg gradually replaced the tight capri pants. Chiffon blouses or polo shirts in cotton, silk or stretch fabrics complete the outfit. For men, the trend shifts to wrinkle-free trousers in 1963, some of which are, of course, brightly patterned like the rest of the fashion.

Translucent Fabrics - Transparent and Revealing

Completely different from the previous decade, the sixties were characterized by emancipation and openness. In 1964, designer Rudi Gernreich was arrested in Chicago for wearing a topless swimsuit. It was not only the hippies who bared their breasts - sheer fabrics that revealed more than they covered also appeared in evening wear, often combined with eye-catching accessories. For those who prefer opaque fabrics but still want to show a lot of skin, there are cut-out dresses that reveal bare skin through cleverly placed openings.

The Dolly Girl - Childlike, Slim and Androgynous

In the mid-sixties, the Dolly Girl appeared, a completely new archetype for young women in the sixties. She embodies the beauty ideal of the slender and childlike woman, whose absolute ideal is Twiggy - slender, androgynous, with no waist or breasts, almost childlike.

The miniskirt is particularly characteristic in the choice of outfits, which are always combined with tight, close-fitting tops and light stockings. The A-line shape neglects curves and focuses entirely on the wearer's delicate and slender body. In addition, coats, suits and dresses often lack collars to emphasize the elongated look.

The Late 1960s (1967-1969)

By the end of the sixties, East Asian influences and the influence of hippie culture began to replace popular fashion in some areas. The trend shifted back to more casual and comfortable clothing, while androgyny continued to increase.

Nehru Jackets and Asian Influences

The waist-length coat, with its stand-up collar and patch pockets, became popular in 1966. It was designed by Jawaharlal Nehru, India's prime minister from 1947 to 1964. As one garment among many, it reflects the trend toward multiculturalism in the fashion world, where Indian, North African, or Balinese influences are increasingly style-defining. This often goes hand in hand with a move away from synthetic materials in favor of vintage clothing from the 1930s and 40s, which makes fashion even more comfortable and looser.

The Dolly Girl Grows Up

With a trend toward comfort, fashion is becoming more feminine and sensual again, with clothing hugging the figure to create a slim, straight line. Long coats over dresses, long straight cut trousers and longer skirts support this look.

Unisex Clothing - Androgyny in Everyday and Professional Life

Women's sexual liberation has far-reaching consequences for society as a whole: the fluidity of the sexes is reflected in fashion. Not only do men's and women's hairstyles become more similar, but clothing also begins to inspire each other. To the point where women are wearing men's clothes and vice versa. With YSL's pantsuit, the trend finally reaches business fashion.

Suit Fashion - Casual Look and Retro Trend

For men, a turtleneck sweater under a suit sometimes replaces a shirt and tie for a more casual look. At the same time, some men are taking inspiration from the Hollywood movies of the era, appearing in 1930s pinstripe suits and hats. All in all, suits are becoming less and less hip, giving way to an unprecedented variety of daring styling combinations.

Hippie Style - Flower Power and Batik Patterns Everywhere

From around 1967, the emergence of new rock stars, the tastes of influential youth cultures, the Vietnam War, and emancipation provided further impetus. From around 1967, a fashion culture of ponchos, moccasins, loose blouses, vests and flared trousers emerged, combined with accessories such as peace symbols, chain belts and bold necklaces. In addition to batik patterns, psychedelic patterns and floral motifs in every color imaginable were popular. Military clothing also reappeared as a sign of protest against the war.

Beauty Trends in the Sixties

No outfit is complete without the right shoes, makeup and carefully chosen accessories. Like fashion, popular beauty trends changed drastically in the sixties.

Hair - Natural Short Hair Styles and Styled Beehives

Women's hairstyles in the sixties are very diverse. From the extravagant beehive hairstyles of the early sixties and simple updos hidden under a hat, to modern short haircuts in the style of Twiggy or Mia Farrow, to the long hair of the hippie movement and simple side cuts, the decade offers plenty of variety. Styling often requires a lot of hairspray. Hair that is too curly is artificially straightened, and fringe often reaches the eyebrows.

For men over 25, the neat side parting with short side and back hair is the norm, while older workers wear a strict crew cut with very short sides. Teenagers are more subculture influenced. They use pomade to shape the back of their hair into a ducktail or are inspired by the bop hairstyles of the Mods, which grow longer and longer as the decade progresses, culminating in the long hippie hairstyles of the late sixties. At the same time, beards became increasingly popular. African Americans, on the other hand, began to wear the so-called "Afro" not only for fashion reasons, but also to express pride in their roots.

Make-up - Natural Subtle Look

At the beginning of the sixties, false eyelashes, bright red lips and exaggerated make-up were all the rage. From 1963, however, there was a shift to a more natural look, with neat, short haircuts and flat shoes. The delicate and feminine look is manifested in pale and subtle colors that remain fashionable until the end of the decade.

Jewelry and Accessories - More is More

In the early sixties, classic hats were popular with suits, but they soon disappeared from everyday life when Nixon and Kennedy appeared in public without hats. From then on, young men wore bandanas or simple caps. The same was true for women's fashion: while hats were often paired with furs at the beginning of the decade, they soon disappeared from the street scene.

Scarves are also in vogue, in bright colors with large patterns that not only adorn the wearer's neck, but often appear as headwear as well. In 1964, Coco Chanel also brought back the headband.

Belts worn conspicuously over the dress are often made of chains. The gold and silver metal rings always give even wool outfits a youthful and fashionable look.

In keeping with the space age, sunglasses take on enormous proportions and are often oversized. Toward the end of the decade, accessories made of nails, chains, brass buttons, or clips are also in vogue to complete the futuristic outfit. This goes so far that the accessories overshadow the entire outfit.

Hippies don't skimp on accessories and jewelry either. Opulent, multi-layered necklaces with large pendants made of natural materials such as feathers or stones dominate.

Shoes - Flat Heels for Almost Every Occasion

Since the beginning of the decade, simple shoes with flat heels have been very popular. Higher heels were only worn for evening dresses, but not necessarily. In the mid-sixties, shoes with rounded toes and straps (the so-called Mary Janes) became increasingly popular. In addition to simple sandals, go-go boots are very trendy. The knee-high white boots with flat heels were introduced by André Courrèges in 1964. From 1967, lacquer or vinyl boots reaching up to the knee or even the thigh became increasingly popular in the fashion world.

It is not only in the British world of rock 'n' roll that the so-called winklepickers with their extremely long, pointed toe caps, which are often complemented by buckles or other striking applications, have become popular. In the hippie culture, sandals, moccasins or simply no shoes are worn, while sporty people are discovering sneakers like the Converse All Stars.

Fashion Icons of the Sixties

As prosperity increases, so does the prevalence of television in the home, and the consumption of music and movies. For the first time in history, young people in particular are forming their own youth cultures, led by idols such as Jimi Hendrix and the Beatles. These, in turn, have a significant influence on the fashion of the time.

Our favorites:

Twiggy (Lesley Lawson)

Colleen Corby

Jean Shrimpton

Mia Farrow

Audrey Hepburn

Penelope Tree

Brigitte Bardot

Catherine Deneuve

Pattie Boyd

Veruschka

Sean Connery

Brigitte Bardot

Elizabeth Taylor

Jimi Hendrix

Mick Jagger

Faye Dunaway

The Beatles

Sophia Loren

Diana Ross

Nancy Sinatra

Edie Sedgwick

Jackie Kennedy

Goldie Hawn

Brian Jones

The most popular designers of the Sixties

In the sixties, the youth of the street inspired the fashion houses of haute couture. The Swinging Sixties, characterized by optimism and hedonism, saw the opening of numerous boutiques, especially in London, that offered ready-to-wear fashion for a wide range of people, and gave rise to trends such as the Mods, the Hippies and the Space Age look. The influence of this "youthquake" movement did not go unnoticed by internationally successful designers, so that the catwalk creations of the time were often influenced by the look of the street.

Andrè Courrèges - Go-Go Boots and Space Age

The French designer is known for his futuristic designs and the use of synthetic materials for his fashion creations. He is not only known for the go-go boots, but also for numerous space-age designs such as trouser suits or box-shaped dresses.

Yves Saint Laurent - Emancipation of women's business fashion

The designer with the initials YSL not only set fashion trends in the sixties with the safari look, thigh-high boots and tight trousers. With "Le Smoking", the first pantsuit for women, Laurent perfectly captured the spirit of the times and made a decisive contribution to the emancipation of business fashion.

Pierre Cardin - not street-wear

Pierre Cardin is also one of the most influential designers of the space-age look. Helmets, short tunics and ski goggles were among his avant-garde creations. Although his collections on the catwalk are too avant-garde for everyday wear on the street, his turtlenecks and sophisticated zipper creations set several fashion trends of the time.

Mary Quant - Mini Skirts and Hot Pants

The British designer is one of the central figures of the British Mod scene. She opened her first boutique, Bazaar, on London's King's Road in 1955. This new type of clothing store offered the young, fashion-conscious target group a completely new shopping experience between expensive designer stores and classic department stores. But it was the miniskirt and the hot pants that made Quandt world famous - although it is still debated whether other designers were more influential. Her influence on the Swinging London of the sixties is undeniable.

Paco Rabanne - Enfant Terrible of the Fashion World

The Spaniard is considered the enfant terrible of the sixties fashion world. Since 1966, the designer, who has worked for renowned fashion houses such as Givenchy and Dior, has used unconventional materials such as plastic and metal in his fashion designs, from which the collection "Manifesto: 12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials. With the costume for Jane Fonda's role in Barbarella (1968), Rabanne managed to make it to Hollywood as a young designer.

Hubert de Givenchy - Classically Elegant Women's Fashion

The elegant costumes worn by Jackie Kennedy and the black dress worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961) have one thing in common: they all bear the signature of Hubert de Givenchy. The French designer dressed the fashion icons of the time, especially at the beginning of the decade, with elegant, feminine dresses and costumes that served as role models for millions of women around the world.

Sixties Fashion Styles

Subcultures and youth cultures have always shaped the look of the streets and set global fashion trends. In the sixties, the mods were everywhere. But surfers and skinheads also influenced the public image.

Mods - From London to the World

The Mods - short for Modernists - developed their own youth culture, which gave rise to bands like The Who and The Beatles. They were an international counterpart to the rockers of 1964. Typical clothing includes suits worn over a tight shirt and under a parka while riding a Vespa. Pants are usually tight, with Levi's being the only serious jeans in the scene. Women wear very short miniskirts, brightly colored go-go boots, and solid geometric patterns with tight-fitting sleeveless tunics.

The Peacock Revolution - Dandies Follow the Mods

Starting around 1968, the so-called Peacock Revolution replaced the fashion of the Mods with its opulent Victorian and Edwardian style elements and references to the Belle Epoque. The trendsetters of the time are called Dandies, Dudes or Peacocks with their ruffled shirts, appearing in outlandish suit creations, wide ties and leather shoes.

Surf Culture

Between 1962 and 1966, surf culture reached its peak. US fashion was characterized by its pragmatism - cheap, functional and durable. The Pendleton jacket, originally popular with lumberjacks and hunters, became a fashion success in the world of female surfers before the first investors discovered the scene, setting fashion accents with their lifestyle and allowing elements of Tiki culture to flow into commercially oriented surf fashion.

Skinheads - Expression of the British Working Class

Skinheads originated in the British working class. In addition to very short, unshaved hair, Dr. Martens work shoes, suspenders, straight-cut jeans, and shirts with button-down collars are characteristic of their style. But Harrington jackets or bomber jackets, wool coats or parkas are also part of the skinhead's wardrobe. Rejecting both the hippies and the middle-class bourgeoisie, the skinheads formed their own subculture, initially often influenced by the Jamaican rude boys. This was accompanied by a preference for ska and soul. In the seventies, however, there were closer ties to punk and Oi! before the scene became increasingly politicized and divided in the eighties.

Conclusion

In the sixties, youth street styles complement the elegant fashions of the previous decade, before the hippie movement shakes up the fashion world in the second half of the decade. For the first time in history, youth and subcultures, under the influence of rock and pop stars, create their own fashion styles, which spread to the catwalks of haute couture and are made available to the young, fashion-conscious target group at affordable prices through boutiques. Not only the miniskirt, but also new materials such as PVC, polyester or metal shape the futuristic creations of the great fashion designers and shift the focus from the formative designer fashion to the creative power of the consumer.

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Uncover the revolution of 1960s fashion. Understand how social protests and cultural shifts influenced trends, from the swinging London streetwear to the iconic miniskirt.

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Rosie the riveter started out as a propaganda image intending to draw women into the work force to fill the vacant jobs men had left during WWII, but today she remains an icon of empowerment among women. This article provides some background for the iconic outfit we she is depicted in.

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Clothing Amidst Conflict - Online exhibitions across Cornell University Library

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Carhartt Coveralls

Before the war, the majority of the workforce was made up of men. So, when the war began, women entered roles men had left behind-especially roles in factories. At this point in time, most women hadn't held jobs of their own: they tended to their children and domestic upkeep. In order to encourage women to leave their home base and seek manufacturing jobs, the U.S. Office of the War printed and dispensed imagery meant to inspire female's sense of patriotism. J. Howard Miller's 1942 "Rosie the Riveter" was the most popular and successful propaganda. Though there is speculation about who the real Rosie is, if she existed, it is often believed that the drawing was part of the Westinghouse Electric Corporation's production campaign to attract female workers. As a result, the percentage of females in the workforce increased from 27% in 1940 to 37% by 1945. There were two million women working industrial jobs at the war's height. A particularly large chunk of women worked in the aviation space, and the industry boasted from more than 310,00 workers in the duration of the War. The image of "Rosie," though, does not accurately capture the vast diversity of the female workforce during the 1940's. More than half a million black women held factory jobs alongside railroads, in shipyards, and in administrative offices to support themselves and their nation.At first, black women were barred from entering the workplace. White men refused to hire them. Then in 1941, thanks to the work of activist Mary McLeod Bethune, President Roosevelt signed Executive Order 8802, which banned hiring based discrimination in the industrial industry. Once black women were allowed to enter these roles, they still faced an extreme amount of workplace discrimination, but the opportunity provided to be critical for these. These roles helped countless black women leave the south and achieve economic gain. The outfit here depicts the classic "Rosie the Riveter'' ensemble: blue coveralls, a red handkerchief, and goggles. Blue Carhartt overalls were selected in this outfit because of the historical relationship Carhartt has with the wartime preparations. During both World War I and II, Carhartt facilities were loaned to the government as production centers. Coveralls for soldiers and other personnel were made in these centers.

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Before the war, the majority of the workforce was made up of men. So, when the war began, women entered roles men had left behind-especially roles in factories. At this point in time, most women hadn't held jobs of their own: they tended to their children and domestic upkeep.

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Although the two have some similarities punk and grunge are two different styles and trends with different origins and meanings behind them. While one is a statement of rebellion and non-conformity the other is a statement of “I couldn’t care less” or “I woke up like this” with a music icon as a figurehead

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What about punk?

Like many fashion movements, punk has its origin in a social and cultural movement. At the end of the 1960s, the hippie philosophy reigned and the baba cool philosophy prevailed over clothing and cultural habits. The punk movement, from the word "thug" in English, was born in the 1970s in Great Britain. What defined it? Provocation ! Scalded by rising unemployment, the punks want to free themselves from established society, reject the ambient "peace & love" and impose a new slogan, "No Future".

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Punk and grunge trends : when fashion and music mix - La Grande Boutique | Blog

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We have never looked so much backwards. Lately, if you want to be trendy, you might have to get used to the idea of ​​a fashion made of rebellion and decadence. As many like to say, yes, fashion is an eternal renewal and it's indeed a "déjà vu" that collections...

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This is the beautiful and visionary Kate Spade, standing inside her first retail store in New York in 1996. Kate is my fashion icon and inspiration, embodying the classy and fun vibe of the 90s with colorful, playful and iconic designs and silhouettes. She launched her brand with husband Andy Spade in 1993 and it changed the fashion industry: Her handbags became a 90s staple including the iconic "Sam" bag known for its boxy shape and black nylon material. She was a self-taught designer and made her first handbags out of carboard and scotch tape. The company didn't make a profit for three years, reminding designers to never give up.

The 90s brought a casual vibe to fashion and the early part of the decade saw a revival of 1960s and 1970s styles such as mini-skirts, flares, and Punk styles. The desire for vintage clothing encouraged grunge fashion: baggy, worn-out jeans, flannel shirts and Doc Martens boots. In the mid-nineties, styles became more feminine again. Slip dresses epitomized the minimalist look during this period. It became fun, flirty and feminine.

I'll end with a quote from Kate Spade about fashion -- and why her brand was a worldwide success:

“We’re not intimidating…. I think some people get nervous about fashion because they find it a little scary. But fashion should be enjoyed; it shouldn’t be looked at from a jaded, been-there-done-that point of view.” -Kate Spade to Vogue magazine

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This is the beautiful and visionary Kate Spade, standing inside her first retail store in New York in 1996. Kate is my fashion icon and inspiration, embodying the classy and fun vibe of the 90s with colorful, playful and iconic designs and silhouettes. She launched her brand with husband Andy Spade in 1993 and it changed the fashion industry: Her handbags became a 90s staple including the iconic "Sam" bag known for its boxy shape and black nylon material. She was a self-taught designer and made her first handbags out of carboard and scotch tape. The company didn't make a profit for three years, reminding designers to never give up.

The 90s brought a casual vibe to fashion and the early part of the decade saw a revival of 1960s and 1970s styles such as mini-skirts, flares, and Punk styles. The desire for vintage clothing encouraged grunge fashion: baggy, worn-out jeans, flannel shirts and Doc Martens boots. In the mid-nineties, styles became more feminine again. Slip dresses epitomized the minimalist look during this period. It became fun, flirty and feminine.

I'll end with a quote from Kate Spade about fashion -- and why her brand was a worldwide success:

“We’re not intimidating…. I think some people get nervous about fashion because they find it a little scary. But fashion should be enjoyed; it shouldn’t be looked at from a jaded, been-there-done-that point of view.” -Kate Spade to Vogue magazine

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When you think of the fashion of the Victorian era, corsets, petticoats, full skirts, bonnets, and top hats spring to mind. The era was defined by intricately made colorful clothing that changed to mirror the transformations and advances of the Victorian period.

The Victorian age was a time of remarkable social, and economic transformation in Britain, driven by the industrial revolution. During this time, fashion played a pivotal role in society, as was used to define one’s social status.

Just as life changed drastically for the people of the Victorian era, so did the fashion of the time, changing every few decades. What people wore was dictated by class and the time of day, and activity being performed. Modesty and prosperity were highly valued during the era, and women’s fashion embodied this.

Maria Lopez

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How did 1920s fashion help to make the Roaring Twenties roar? Bernice had bobbed her hair; French tennis star Suzanne Lenglen was fueling the sportif craze; the taste for all things Art Deco carried over into fashion; and Chanel had slipped women into something more comfortable-the Little Black Dress. The LBD was deemed such a closet mainstay that Vogue drew a comparison to Ford's revolutionary Model T of 1908. In an article in our October 1, 1926 issue entitled "The Debut of the Winter Mode," Vogue captioned a sketch of a black, long-sleeved frock that fell just below the knees: "The Chanel 'Ford'-the frock that the world will wear is model 817 of black crepe de chine."

On our covers, we celebrated the decade with illustrations from the likes of Georges Lepape, Benito, and William Bolin. A harmony of linear elements that appear plucked from the sketches of the forthcoming Chrysler Building, these illustrations helped feed the Art Deco frenzy. Fashion-wise, women were dressed in cloche hats, tubular silhouettes with drop waists, and handkerchief hemlines boldly skimming shins-which were on show for the very first time.

A breakdown of all these 1920s fashion trends and more, below.

Women's Trends of the 1920s

The Tomboy Look

While the archetypical woman of the 1920s wasn't yet ready for a full-on menswear-inspired moment (that would take a few decades-about five, for Saint Laurent's Le Smoking), she was here for the "La Garçonne" look-which was boyish, not manish. A play on words with the feminine article for the French "man" La Garçonne-style aimed to unsculpt the female body, with silhouettes that draped over her curves-no pinching or hugging. The look also called for a shorter hemline, which had previously been permissible only for young girls who could not yet embrace their femininity via fashion.

The house of Premet championed this aesthetic. In a February 1924 feature entitled "Interview with Couturiers," Premet's Charlotte Révyl remarked on the gendered balancing act of the La Garçonne look: "Nowadays, with cut hair, tiny hats pulled down over the eyes, bateau necks or other little collars, long sleeves, and boyish figures, we have absolutely nothing feminine left, unless we see the pretty slender ankles."

The Bob

Even before F. Scott Fitzgerald cemented the bob as the 'do of the decade in his much-read short story "Bernice Bobs Her Hair," published in May 1920 in The Saturday Evening Post, the bold were test-driving the cutting-edge look. In 1915, dancer Irene Castle, who purportedly cut her hair for ease following a surgery, kept her ear-length hair in place on a headband across her forehead; it was such a distinctive look that it came to be known as the "Castle band." Other memorable bobs belong to the vampy silent film star Louise Brookes, whose angular jet-black bob stole hearts in 1928's Howard Hawks film A Girl in Every Port, and Josephine Baker, who slicked hers down with sculpted locks into Kiss curls.

The look wasn't just for vixens of the screen and stage; it was a well-adopted style that went mainstream. By February of 1926, Vogue reported: "In a week of nights spent at smart restaurants in Paris or New York, one might never see a single distinguished head in the Lady Godiva tradition. The bob rules."

Skirt Hemlines Rose

Nary a knee was on show during this era (it's a common misconception that flappers wore dresses above the knee) though the daring flapper might have flashed them whilst seated! Hemline historians cite 1926 as the peak of this trend, with dresses and skirt hemlines rising; at first, skimming the ankles, then up the mid-shin, then just below the knee. All the while, flesh-colored stockings sheathed the leg.

Flapper Style

What Was a Flapper, Anyway?

Think of the descriptor of flapper as being synonymous with trendy. The flapper look was the prevailing trend, and flappers were those girls who dressed the part. But it's a term with a bit of a backstory-some thought the term referred to youths who opted to unbuckle their galoshes, letting them flap with each step. Others trace flapper back to a Victorian term used to describe (clutch your pearls!) young prostitutes. It took some consideration to rebrand flapper. In 1917 Vogue titled an article "The Term 'Flapper' Carries No Stigma." By 1920, Frances Marion released the film The Flapper, starring Olive Thomas and the rest was history. Every girl wanted to be a flapper.

The Cloche

The fashionable lady of the 1920s wouldn't step outside without her hat. Come nightfall, however, she'd leave it behind. Following the craze for oversized pancake hats in the 1900s, the 10s and 20s saw a gradual shrinking of ladies' hats into the coche style. Popularized by milliner Caroline Reboux in 1908, the hat style gets its name after the French word for "bell." It was also the perfect pairing for the bob-a helmet-like hat for a helmet-like haircut.

The Little Black Dress

Slick and sumptuously understated, Chanel's 1926 little black dress in a crepe de chine was entirely modern. The look embraced black as a fashion color after a long and sorrowful history as the hue to mourn in. Plus, the LBD's unfussiness was a striking departure from previous modes. Fabric-wise, the silhouette Chanel put forth could be constructed in a variety of textiles, encouraging a democratization of couture look as it was very re-creatable. The look was such a mainstay; the little black dress was appropriate for day and eveningwear; jersey by day, chiffon by night-chic all day long!

The Robe de Style

Lesser celebrated, though no less prevalent, was another novel silhouette of the era dubbed the Robe de Style. In sync with the era, this silhouette showcased a bit of leg, but unlike the tubular look, there was a bit of body. The dress typically featured a gathered and expansive skirt but with zero waist on show. It reads as diaphanous, floaty, and highly feminine. French couturier Jeanne Lanvin is most associated with the Robe de Style, but she was one of many designers who offered a girlish alternative to the boyish La Garçonne look. In a 1923 feature on French actress and fashion darling Regina Camier, Vogue cites how "Aided and abetted by Lanvin...Camier made many converts to the Robe de Style."

Top Designers of the Era

Gabrielle Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jeanne Lanvin, Callot Soeurs, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, Madame Chéruit, Paul Poiret, Norman Hartnell, Sonia Delaunay, Jane Regny, Jeanne Paquin, and Premet.

Men's Trends of the 1920s

If, during this decade, Paris gave the final word in womenswear, London set the tone for men-particularly a certain gentleman by the name of Edward VIII, then Prince of Wales. Suits went down from three to two pieces, and pinstripes were a popular choice, as were tweeds and flannels; anything that evoked Savile Row tailoring and English country living, as epitomized by the Prince. Two pant trends uphold this tweedy aesthetic: the Oxford Bags (a wide-leg pant said to be inspired by those worn by rowers at Oxford) and the plus-fours (worn for golf). On their heads? A Magritte-style bowler hat.

In the Culture

The Harlem Renaissance lit up the world and gave it something to listen to, with jazz musicians and bandleaders like Duke Ellington setting the soundtrack for the decade. A 1923 Broadway show, "Runnin' Wild," gave the world the jazzy dance 'The Charleston,' and over in Paris, at the Folies Bergère, Josephine Baker was holding court. Speaking of courts, in the world of tennis, French sensation Suzanne Lenglen teamed up with couturier Lucien Lelong to serve some major fashion looks that carried over into ready-to-wear.

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A 1920s Fashion History Lesson: Flappers, the Bob, and More Trends That Made the Roaring Twenties Roar

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Vogue unpacks 1920s fashion, from the decade's prevailing trends to the era's top designers.

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Fish tank shoes clip

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I'm Gonna Git You Sucka (1988) - Fly Guy !!

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Safe sex

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Denetra

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This is what the ai came up with after I adjusted the prompt :)

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Purple and orange Ankara fabric,2 piece set with orange puff short sleeves. Orange A line skirt with ruffle hem.

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Purple and orange Ankara fabric.

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Orange and purple gradient 2 piece set. Crop top with tulle puff short sleeves. Circle skirt with ruffle hem.

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Orange and purple gradient 2 piece set.

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Orange and Purple 2 piece set. Crop top with puff sleeves. Purple circle skirt with orange ruffle hem.Elastic waist band 

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Orange and Purple 2 piece set

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My original sketch

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short dress pink

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Puffy light purple skirt with chiffon fabric, paired with white cropped top tight shoulder less t-shirt

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Hello Class, Here is my Wk 1 Homework I did it on Tye Dying and its origins and its popularity in time. I learned quite a bit from several sources mainly from Science History and National Geographic. I was surprised to learn the dying process dates back to 4,000 B.C. in Indus Valley Civilization. Located in the northern part of India the Tye dying from Tied Dye know as Bandhani.

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American fashion in the 1920s was often daring, deco, and decadent. Flappers danced the night away in speakeasies, while dapper college boys sported straw boaters and bold two-toned shoes. Silhouettes slimmed, and hemlines rose. But the most essential fashion staple? Why, it had to be the tie-dyed shirt! That's right: the tie-dyed shirt, in a rainbow of psychedelic shades, was the hallmark look of the Jazz Age.

Well, okay, that last part is simply not true. Tie-dyed clothes-icons of the groovy 1960s and 1970s-didn't dominate early-20th-century fashion. It's hard to picture the characters in The Great Gatsby sipping champagne while dressed like the crowds at Woodstock. But in fact tie-dyeing was invented and popularized much earlier than we might imagine, and its emergence in the United States was intertwined with the arrival of new, cheap, and widely available synthetic dyes.

Tie-dyeing-or "tied dyeing," as it was more commonly known before the 1960s-is an ancient art practiced across continents and cultures. The essential elements are fabric, string, and colorful dye. Among the oldest techniques is bandhani, practiced for more than 4,000 years in South Asia. Bandhani textiles are produced by plucking fabric into tight, tiny knots before dipping it into dye vats, a method that produces exceptionally delicate and complicated patterns. Other, widely varied techniques of tie-dyeing were developed in Southeast Asia, South America, West Africa, and elsewhere.

DeGolyer Library, Southern Methodist University

Historically, tie-dyers used natural colors sourced from organic material, such as the leaves of the indigo plant or the roots of the rose madder. Some natural dyes were more durable than others, but the dyeing process itself was complicated and could involve multiple steps to "fix" the dye-that is, to make it permanent and resistant to fading (also known as lightfast). Fixing natural dyes required mordants, chemical binders that helped adhere the dyes to fiber or fabric. Mordants could be made from alum (potassium aluminum sulfate), salts of iron, copper, or tin, or certain tannic acids, such as those found in oak gall, tea, or sumac bark. With the invention of the first synthetic fabric dye in 1856-an aniline, or "coal tar," dye extracted from petrochemicals-professional dyers gained both a wide new range of colors and a more streamlined process. Aniline dyes were strong, vivid, more lightfast, and required fewer chemical interventions to "stick" to fabric. A century of use would, unfortunately, prove them toxic, but their brilliant colors changed the direction of fashion forever.

While it's difficult to pinpoint exactly how tie-dyeing entered American consciousness, one early marker is an article by chemistry professor Charles E. Pellew that appeared in The Craftsman in 1909. The magazine promoted the tenets of the Arts and Crafts movement-opposition to mass manufacturing and reverence for handiwork and the value of human labor-by sharing techniques for crafting (in every field from woodworking to needlepoint), profiling trade schools and makers, and offering essays on the virtues of do-it-yourself. Pellew's article "Tied and Dyed Work: An Oriental Process with American Variations" recognized Indian dyers as the originators and perfectors of many tie-dye techniques. Pellew also praised examples of tie-dyes made with modern, Western materials and designs. "It is indeed doubtful," he writes, "whether we have any process at our disposal that compares with this in simplicity and economy, as well as in beauty."

Only a few months before Pellew's article was published, a feature in Harper's Bazaar titled "Gobolink Tapestry" presented techniques for tie-dyeing." (The author was Adelia B. Beard, cofounder of the first American girls' scouting group, best known as the Camp Fire Girls.) The term gobolink was likely borrowed from the title of a popular inkblot game, in which players made symmetrical inkblots (not unlike those used by Rorschach for his psychological tests) and then created amusing rhymes based on the resulting patterns. But gobolink was also used to denote anything uncanny, odd, or seemingly magical-as well as things considered foreign or other. This latter meaning colors Beard's opening paragraph, where she patronizingly (and prejudicially) refers to the nonstandard patterns of tie-dyeing as "freely barbaric as the work of savages," and fails to recognize the skill and precision which characterized many traditional forms of tie-dye technique. By presenting tie-dye as an exotic, uncontrollable, unconscious process, Beard encourages her American readers toward self-expression but strips away tie-dye's real historical and cultural contexts.

The truth is dyeing clothing, curtains, upholstery fabrics, and other pieces of decor at home was already a longstanding American tradition and one that allowed budget-conscious homemakers to refresh their surroundings without spending money on new items. One of the most important factors in selecting dyes was their ease of use: the fewer steps and less complicated chemistry required, the better. One popular 19th-century brand took simplicity as their tagline: "It's easy to dye with Diamond Dyes." An advertising sign from around 1890 depicts a woman dyeing a variety of clothes-a child's dress (likely cotton), and a pair of stockings (silk or wool)-emphasizing that Diamond Dyes could be used on a wide range of fabrics.

Science History Institute

In reality, the quality of early-20th-century home dyes varied greatly, and many produced poor or less durable color results. Pellew stresses the importance of choosing quality dyes in his article. "I should doubt," he writes, "if the . . . Salt Colors sold in packages at the druggists would be fast either to light or to washing." He instead recommends "sulphur" colors (manufactured with hydrogen sulfide in a high-heat baking process), which were invented and popularized in the 1890s. Fumes from sulfur dyes, however, could be noxious, and their high reactivity meant they couldn't be used in copper, brass, or iron vessels. For the home crafter of 1909, tie-dyeing could still lead to frustration and mixed results.

In Pellew's time, virtually all dyes used in the United States came from Germany, then a powerhouse of the Atlantic chemical trade. With the outbreak of World War I in 1914 came blockades, and with blockades came shortages in the United States of many common goods-including dyes and synthetic colors. But American color chemists quickly responded, and the market was flooded with new dye products, some of a higher quality than others. For home dyers, one of the most popular new options was RIT, an inexpensive "direct" dye that debuted in 1916.

Direct dyes addressed the uneven performance home dyers often encountered. Earlier "salt" or "acid" dyes were best for wool and silk, as the dye molecules and natural proteins in the fibers shared a chemical affinity that allowed them to bond more easily. But acid dyes didn't work well on plant-based fibers, such as cotton and linen, which required mordants and processing to hold the color. Direct dyes got around these problems by combining two types of dyes: those suitable for cotton and linen as well as those suitable for wool and silk, meaning they could be used on nearly any fabric with relative ease. Their universality quickly made them a consumer favorite.

A 1928 informational booklet, The Charm of Color, showcases things a crafty home dyer could do with direct dyes. Alongside instructions on bleaching, cleaning, and dyeing silks, wools, rayons, and other common fabrics, it offered guidance on "modern" home decor, fashion, and color matching. But the highlight is a section titled "The Art of Tied Dyeing."

Science History Institute

The pamphlet shares four methods for creating "tied and dyed" designs: a shaded ombre effect, a one-color circle design, a two-color design, and a more complicated three-color process. Readers were instructed to work from the lightest color to the darkest and to boil the fabric in the dye bath. Other methods for "mottled" and "twisted" dyeing were included as variations on the traditional tied technique.

During the 1920s and 1930s, tie-dyeing was promoted as an especially suitable and fashionable hobby for thrifty, sensible women. In the United Kingdom, tie-dyeing was even featured on the big screen as part of Eve's Film Review, a series of light-hearted, educational silent films directed at women. The series' 1933 lineup included a short called "Tied Dyeing-A New Art for the Home," showing the "fascinating and economical" transformation of a boiled silk scarf into a stunning à la mode wrap.

American women of the same era recognized the appeal of refreshing tired fabrics with new, vivid patterns-thanks especially to inexpensive dyes-and tie-dyeing saw a brief surge of popularity during the Great Depression. Sadly, few Jazz Age tie-dyes have survived with their colors intact, casualties of the poor fade-resistance of many American dyes from that time.

But the appeal of home dyeing has endured. RIT dyes are still sold, and in an even more dazzling array of colors. (Other improvements have been more consequential: nearly all common do-it-yourself dyes once contained benzidine, a carcinogen that's since been banned.) Tie-dyeing, briefly popular in the 1920s and 1930s, and widely beloved in the 1960s and 1970s, has made a resurgence, along with other nostalgic hobbies, during the COVID-19 pandemic. Unique, handmade, and affordable, the marriage of ancient techniques and modern materials still showcases the true "charm of color."
The author would like to acknowledge the resources provided by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists in creating this story. Founded in 1921, the AATCC is currently celebrating its 100th year of service to the textile and materials industries.

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Ladies jacket v neck collar 3 buttons ruffles on sleeves.

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The fifth and final version

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Of course, I couldn’t get it to understand what I wanted my outfit to look. It gave me very 5 pretty versions. None of them with suede color blocking cuts on sides.

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The first image is my sketch and then the following is the AI results. I did have readjust the description and was able to get these results.

Ripped army green cargo pants with belt loops, black stripe detail starts from the waistband, on the two front belt loops, goes straight down each pant leg, over the knee to the ankle cuff, and separate into a T shape that wraps around the ankle cuff

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The AI creation is pretty close to what I had in mind when I designed this skirt! Pretty cool. I included a screenshot of my prompt.

-Ramona

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This work is from my previous student.  I want to share with you how AI helped her in the visualization of her design. Work by: Emma Raspopovich 

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This work is from my previous student.  I want to share with you how AI helped her in the visualization of her design. Work by: Emma Raspopovich 

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Discover more AI tools for Fashion Designers

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Discover more AI tools for Fashion Designers

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CALA makes it easy to design, produce, and deliver your own fully-custom fashion products. CALA provides everything you could need. Design assistance. Material sourcing. Sampling. With powerful features like in-app notifications, task management, and real-time commenting — so you can maximize productivity in the studio or on the go.

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We are on the 5th day of our class. Halfway done :-) Let's do a little knowledge check reflection and sharing of learnings! You can talk about any of the following:
- Top key takeaway learnings so far.
- Areas of fashion design that interests you most.
- "I wish we cover ____ in the class."
- Past assignments, research, new learnings you want to share in the class

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Twins is a minority-owned family business with expertise in the enhancment of fabric via the pleating & stitching processes.

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Project showed me that every one in the class has skills in n their on way. I looking at the different textures and patterns that my class mates created. The project was very interesting looking forward for future projects.

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Denetra

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Changing the silhouette of a skirt is one of the points to change the look and direction of fashion.

Straight or basic skirt: The skirt hangs straight from hip line to hem line.

A-Shape: The skirt falls away from the hip, flaring out the hem line, increasing the hemline sweep.

Pencil skirt: The skirt clings to the figure’s curves at, above, or below the hip and breaks into fluid movement along the hem line.

Gore skirt: flare added equally on each side of the 12 panels.

Drapped wrap skirt: Five drapery pleats from the waistband and end on the opposite side of the skirt preferably on the side seam.

Skirt with yokes:

The yoke of the design begins 3 1/2 inches down from the waistline and is attached and gathered skirt.

Tiered skirt: Tiered designs are those featuring rows or layers of fabric attached to each other or separated and attached to a frame underneath.

Separated tiers skirt : Tiers are single layers of gathered or flared panels stitched to a straight or flared under skirt.

Inverted box pleated skirt: Inverted box pleats in front with slight A-line flare at side seams.

Skirt with godets: single godets inserted in gore panels.

Wrap skirt: A basic A-line, flared skirt by extending the center front.

Circle skirt: circles can be designed as a circular skirts .

Circular skirt with handkerchief hem: the skirt is a circular skirt with squared or pointed hem.

Circular skirt with graduated hemline: Doble circular skirts with one circle shorter than the other. A cascade effect is formed by the inner circles being cut off-center. Waistband ties skirt together.

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In The Studio: Daniel Roseberry on the Heritage of Surrealism at Schiaparelli

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In The Studio: Daniel Roseberry on the Heritage of Surrealism at Schiaparelli

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I chose Hubert de Givenchy as my Fashion icon/designer. I think he embodies the classic chic style of the modern women. His clothes are timeless and effortless. He has designed some of today fashion favorites… The little black dress, Bettina Blouse. He is also the first couturier to present a ready to wear collection.

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Born in Beauvais, northern France, in 1927, Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy was the son of nobility on his father's side and an artistic tradition on his mother's. His father passed away when Hubert was 3 and he was raised by his mother and maternal grandmother, who instilled in him a passion for creativity, fashion and fabrics - informed largely by his grandfather's extensive collection of clothes from around the world. An obsession that grew from a young age, family legend has it that it was an aborted attempt aged 10 to run away from home and meet his idol, Cristóbal Balenciaga, that convinced Givenchy's mother to abandon her wish for him to become a lawyer and allow him to pursue fashion.

Having outgrown his hometown, Givenchy left home for Paris aged 17 to take up an apprenticeship at the Jacques Fath couture house, while also studying at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts. Following a recommendation from an up-and-coming Christian Dior, in 1946 Hubert moved to Robert Piguet and worked for a brief stint at Lucien Lelong in 1947, before joining the house of legendary designer Elsa Schiaparelli, where he worked his way up to become artistic director of the Schiaparelli boutique on Place Vendôme.

Accordingly, Hubert's tenure at Givenchy would be defined by designs praised for their 'extreme elegance', with each new collection always one of the most highly anticipated each season. His iconic garments included the 'sack dress', an unprecedented design which did away with the tight waists and fitted designs favoured in the 1950s and ushered in a looser, more modern silhouette that became de rigeuer over the next decade.

It didn't take long for the silver screen stars of the day to come knocking at Givenchy's door and, just one year after opening his couture house, Givenchy met the woman who would become his most famous client: Audrey Hepburn. The pair met when Hepburn borrowed several looks from the house to wear in Sabrina. They immediately developed a fast friendship which would evolve into one of the most prolonged collaborations between an actress and a designer in fashion history - and provide a framework for celebrity endorsements that remains to this day.

Givenchy went on to create many notable looks for Hepburn, with the actress commenting, "His are the only clothes in which I am myself. He is far more than a couturier, he is a creator of personality." These most famously included the little black dress worn by Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany's, her 1954 Oscars gown and the dress Hepburn wore when she married Andrea Dotti in 1969. In 1957 Hepburn also became the face of Givenchy's first fragrance, L'Interdit.

The brand named his successor, irreverent British designer John Galliano, just an hour after Hubert showed his final haute couture collection in Paris. Although Givenhcy had no say in the choosing of his successor, and the pair had never met, Galliano's appointment was hailed by the as "both an affirmation of the future of couture and a vote for unpredictable, whimsical creativity in fashion".

However, the appointment didn't stick and Galliano had left Givenchy to helm Dior by 1996. His replacement, Alexander McQueen, would go on to have a more successful tenure and be followed by a string of high profile designers including Julien MacDonald, Riccardo Tisci, Claire Waight Keller and, as of mid-2020, Matthew Williamson.

Hubert retired to his country estate in Le Jonchet, just outside of Paris, with his partner and fellow designer Philippe Venet and spent his latter years all but removed from the fashion world, emerging only to give the occasional interview or public talk. Hubert de Givenchy passed away peacefully aged 91 on 10 March 2018 in Paris.

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Everything you need to now about the life of fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy

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One of my favorite dresses. Worn by Audrey

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Research for more social media fashion influencer. How did they get started? Who are their followers? Who do they appeal to? Can you think of new and creative ways social media can help you in your entry to the world of "fashion design"?  Be ready to present and communicate in the class your discoveries!

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I wanted something that was an “all in one” where you can draw your designs , add the collection/garment name , highlight the details of certain areas on the garment , add some fabric/color swatches , and the materials needed ( 1 1/2 yard fabric , 6 buttons etc.) I made other variations with different croquis as well !

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I chose Adut Akech as one of my social media influencer in the fashion industry as a model, actress and role model for many. She is the ambassador for Valentino. She was the top model in 2019. She has 1.8 instagram followers. She has just grace the cover of Vogue Australia and announced her pregnancy. I feel she will be an even bigger influence in the industry as time passes

https://x.com/adutakech1/status/1410326802048995332

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Right before Adut Akech found out she was pregnant, she dreamt her sister was. The dream was so lucid that Akech woke up in the middle of the night. She frantically called her in a nocturnal haze to see if it was true. Her sister assured her it wasn't-that she was very much not expecting.

But Akech now sees it as the first omen of many. The next day, she found herself with an unusual craving for oranges, peeling them constantly at home, then packing bags of orange slices to carry in her purse. The day after that, she found herself the most exhausted she'd ever been in her life. Sure, she had just attended the Valentino show in Paris, posed in several shoots, and then flown back home to Adelaide, Australia. But as a top model, that had always been her schedule.

Then came the day of pregnancy reckoning. "I was picking up my car from the service center-with my bag of oranges!-and when driving back home, I started feeling like I was going to throw up," she recalls. That's when it dawned on Akech that she, not her sister, might be the one who needed to pick up a test from CVS. She took five, and they all said the same thing: She was definitely and undisputedly pregnant.

Akech is 24 years old, three years below the U.S. average age for first-time mothers. "I always said I wanted to be a young mom because I love the idea of growing up with your kids," she says. That's the relationship she shares with her own mother, who had Akech when she was 20 years old. "The age difference plays a huge role in how close we are," she says. Plus the model loves kids. She wants at least four. Ideally five. She'd also be cool with six, if some end up "twinning."

How's the journey with number one going? She answers, breathlessly: "I'm good. I'm excited. I can't wait. I'm like-can they just come already? I'm kind of over it and I'm just halfway." Pregnancy, she goes on to say, has been a "beautiful feeling, but a mental and physical rollercoaster. Nothing really ever prepares you for it."

It's one thing to read about pregnancy-specific weight gain, for example. It is totally another thing to actually experience said weight gain: "Why does it feel like there's a brick sitting on the top of my vagina? I'm so sorry for my language," she says, laughing. Or when the exhaustion comes with a mind-boggling, simultaneous case of insomnia. Or when your simple craving for oranges morphs into a bizarre eating pattern. Some days, Akech isn't hungry at all. But other days? "I want everything-I'll force my mom to cook three traditional dishes and on top of that I'm having KFC."

It's not just the cravings that have Akech thinking a lot about her upbringing. Born in South Sudan, as an infant, she and her mother were forced to flee the country due to civil war. For eight years Akech lived in a Kenyan refugee camp.

She knows her child won't have the same journey-and of course, she doesn't want them to. But she does want them to have the same values such a difficult road gave her: "When you don't come from much, you don't really value the material stuff," she says. "I could have easily gotten carried away with the life that I now live. But I think I've always just in the back of my head: Remember where you came from, " she says. "If I can take care of my family and take care of myself, that's it, I'm happy."

"I just want to teach my kids what's valuable. And what's not," she adds, before pausing. "Just to be a kind, decent human being."

Her kids, for starters, are going to work. Sure, their mother may be a world-famous supermodel who has been on the cover of Vogue, served as a muse to Pierpaolo Piccioli and the late Karl Lagerfeld, and even starred in a Beyoncé music video. But for Akech, that doesn't matter. "My mom didn't have anything! I bought my own first car-so I'm going to make sure that my kid buys their own first car," she says.

Later that night, Akech is throwing a gender-reveal party with her family and partner Samuel Elkhier, as well as a few close friends. She's excited to find out if she's having a boy or a girl, but she's also excited because she's finally wearing a cute outfit after months of, well, not: "I lived in the same three pairs of sweatpants. One was Alo. One was Lululemon. The other one might've been Victoria's Secret."

It might seem a drastic style switch for the model, who wore a skin-tight lace LaQuan Smith catsuit to the 2024 Met Gala (when just over a month pregnant) and a custom Nensi Dojaka corset to the 2022 Fashion Awards. "But I don't go anywhere in Adelaide!" Akech says, laughing. "I go to my OB-GYN, I go back home. I go to my pregnancy Pilates, I come back home. I pick up my siblings from school, I come back home. That's my life! There's nowhere to dress up!"

The model has about 10 weeks of pregnancy left. She's both amazed she's come this far and that she still has so far to go: "I'm just waddling around like, 'What the fuck is this? What is this?'" she says, exaggerating her movements to comedic effect. But after gathering herself together, she looks me straight in the eye. "Women...we're built different, honestly," she says. "I don't think men could ever."

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Adut Akech Is Pregnant-And Getting Real About It

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"I just want to teach my kids what's valuable-and what's not," supermodel Adut Akech tells Vogue. "Just to be a kind, decent human being."

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Hi everyone, I thought this was a cool and simple way to make a quick loom with cardboard.

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If you think you need special equipment to learn how to weave, you're wrong! Use things you have at home to make your first loom, just like I did back in the summer of 2015. I taught myself how to weave on a DIY cardboard loom and I got hooked! I want to share some of my favorite techniques and tricks with you.

The tools you need

All you need is a piece of cardboard (A4 size), a cutter, scissors, a ruler and a pencil, and a wool needle. I also recommend a cup of tea to stay hydrated because it's easy to lose the track of time while weaving ;)

Use your favorite yarn to weave with. The threads fixed to the loom (vertical) are called warp, the threads we will weave in between warp threads (horizontal) are called weft.
For warp I recommend cotton string or any other not stretchy yarn. I used my own plant dyed wool yarns as weft.

Make your own loom

I used a thick piece of cardboard to make my loom. Remember that your loom needs to be stable enough not to get bent by the tensioned warp, so don't choose cardboards that are too wobbly.
Draw short lines spaced evenly (1 cm) at the top and the bottom of the cardboard. Be careful to keep identical distances from each side of your loom, so that your warp can be stretched in a straight line.

Cut out a window in the middle of the loom. It will allow you to see the back side of your weaving. We will need it later to weave in the loose ends. I recommend leaving at least 2 cm border around your window, so that your loom stays firm. The window doesn't need to be perfect, so don' stress out if your cutting lines are not super straight.
Use scissors to make small cuts at the top and the bottom of the loom. This is where the warp will be attached.

Attach the warp

Make a little loop on your finger and attach it to one of the "teeth" of your cardboard loom. Secure the loop by pulling both strings to prevent the warp from loosening the tension. Now pull the long thread all the way down to the opposite end of the loom.

Tension the warp

Wrap the thread around the bottom "tooth". Your warp should be tensioned but don't pull too strong, otherwise the cardboard might bend. Be careful to tension all threads evenly.
Go back with your thread to the "tooth" number one. Wrap your thread behind it and pull it to the bottom of the loom again. Repeat as many times as you need. Secure your last thread with a loop.

Note that (almost) every groove holds two threads. You can warp your loom less dense if you wish but it's going to affect the look and stability of your weaving.

Start weaving

This is where the real adventure begins! Choose your favorite yarn and thread it through a wool needle. You can use just your fingers to place the weft between the warp too, but working with a needle makes it easier.

Put your needle under the first thread, over the second one, under the third one... until you reach the end. Leave a little tail of yarn at the end, we are going to use it late to hemstitch the edge.

Weaving the weft between the warp

The second row is woven the other way around, which means that if a needle was under the warp in the first round, now it's over it, if it was over it, now it's under. In my case (7 warp threads) my yarn in the first row ended under the thread number 7, so in the second row it goes over it and under the thread number 6.

Alternate your rows until you've woven enough of one color. In smaller weavings like this one I use my fingers to "beat" the weft down, so that the threads lay next to each other. When making a wallhanging I highly recommend using a weaving fork to speed up the process.

Be careful not to pull your weft too much. A good idea would be to create a small "bubble" with your thread and beat it down (see the bottom photo). This way your weft stays nice and relaxed between the warp threads. Why is that important? If your tension your weft while weaving, it will distort your warp AND your weaving will get wavy when taken off the loom. Nobody wants that, right?

Changing threads

After you finished your first block, let the end of your thread hang freely between the warp threads. Bring it to the back of your weaving, a few warp threads away from the edge. We are going to weave it in later.

(Some people weave the loose ends in the edges of their weavings, but for small projects like this one it's better to hide them in the middle. This way the edges stay straight and neat.)

Start your next weft row from the place where your previous block finished. I overlapped both colors on the warp thread number 4. Keep weaving the usual way. Remember to leave a tail long enough to hide it later.

Weaving as a meditation

Keep going for as long as you want, with as many colors as you like. Be careful - the more blocks you make, the more loose ends you have to hide later! And remember to stay hydrated (nothing goes better than yarn and a cup of tea).

Finishing the ends

When your weaving part is finished, it's time to secure your work. Hem stitch every two warp threads together. You'll do so by making a loop over them and pushing the needle through the last row, like in the photo.

Hemstitch both ends

If your warp threads number is odd, just make a loop on your last warp thread. After you finished, turn the loom and hemstitch the other end the same way. Yay, your weaving is secure, now we need to make it look pretty :)

Weave in loose ends

Weaving in loose ends is the least favorite part of my weaving practice but to be fair, it's also very satisfying. If you're making a wall hanging, you can consider leaving your ends the way they are, but for this small piece like this one, it's important to hide them.

Push the needle through ALL of the block rows (pink) to keep a nice and clean surface. Now pull the end of the previous block (orange) through the eyelet of the needle. Pull the (orange) weft end all the way through the (pink) block.

How to tidy it up

Hide all the loose ends and clip them carefully as soon as they're woven in. Be careful not to pull two ends through one column, otherwise, some parts of your weaving will get much thicker than others. We are trying to make them disappear and create a nice and uniform surface.

I always hide ends of one block into the other block. This way all blocks stay attached to each other and don't slide or move on the warp.

Done!

Your weaving is finished! Now it's time to carefully take it off the loom, without destroying it. You can reuse the loom as long as it lasts.

Take your weaving off the loom

Cut the first two warp threads and make a loop. Don't pull too hard, you don't want to move the weft. Continue until all threads are tied.

Congratulations!

Your weaving can be transformed into anything you want now! Narrow weavings like this one can be used to make bracelets, bookmarks, ornaments, pacifier holders, etc...

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and will fall in love with weaving just as much as I did when I first started. Let me know if all is clear and if you have any questions, I'm happy to help!

Best weaving looms for wall hangings

Cardboard looms are a great way to start your adventure with weaving, but nothing beats a proper wooden loom. My favorite type is a loom with a turning heddle bar (it helps you weave much faster!) and screws that let you adjust the tension of your warp.

Due to the popular demand, I'm stocking locally produced German looms in my shop now. I'm offering single loom and loom kits together with my plant-dyed yarn. If you want to step up your weaving game, this is where you find all the quality tools you need: visit my shop.

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If you think you need special equipment to learn how to weave, you're wrong! Use things you have at home to make your first loom, just like I did back in the summer of 2015. I taught myself how to weave on a DIY cardboard loom and I got hooked!

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I saw this at Kohl’s today and was so excited that I recognized the design. Looks like two layered flounces on this Lauren Conrad t-shirt sleeve (cut in a circular shape). This class is teaching us so much! ❤️ if nothing else, I’m paying attention now to colors, shapes, patterns, textures, details.

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María López

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pocket for a bikini

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Edaa

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Sorry the art is so rushed but here are some pocket ideas.

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I really like this design as more of a trim

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My color design for a tote bag.