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to create the most efficient sailboat. we could use NASA LS(1)-0413 or NACA 4415 for maximum efficiency. we could also design a more aerodynamic hull. i think for maximum efficiency we should make a airfoil. i think we should aim for the best engineering and performance

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○ Sail Designer(Jae Hinn)

○ Hull Designer (Ady)

○ Troubleshooting Lead (Olivia)

○ Fluid Dynamicist (applying physics

knowledge & doing research)(Olivia)

○ Resource & Budget Lead(Zhi Hao)

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When designing the hull should we aim for speed(less stable) or Stability (More stable)

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Speed(Less Stable faster Harder to design)

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Both (we could intergrate both into our design)

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Finalised plan of the hull.

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We brainstormed with AI - NOW LET'S MAKE IT ACTUALLY HAPPENED - below are important stuff needed for making both types of foil

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We brainstormed with AI - NOW LET'S MAKE IT ACTUALLY HAPPENED - below are important stuff needed for making both types of foil

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For both a hydrofoil and an airfoil, the most important things are how the shape is designed to create enough lift while keeping drag (wind or water resistance) as low as possible. The speed it will travel, the angle it meets the flow, and the fluid’s density all affect performance. Strong, lightweight materials are needed so it doesn’t bend or break, and the size, camber, and aspect ratio of the foil must be chosen for efficiency. Good design balances lift, drag, strength, and stability for the best results.

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Material must be easy to handle with and most importantly within bugdet and has least resistance in water.

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but cheap thing no good good thing no cheap

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but its expensive,Basic dry carbon fiber cloth: RM 150 – RM 250/m²

High-quality dry carbon cloth (aerospace grade): RM 300 – RM 500/m²

Pre-preg carbon fiber (pre-coated with resin, high precision): RM 500 – RM 900/m²

Finished carbon fiber sheet/plate: RM 400 – RM 800/m²

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Hull: The main body of the boat, which can be traditional or specifically designed to interact with the hydrofoils.

Hydrofoils: The wing-like structures that generate lift and lift the hull out of the water. They can be surface-piercing or fully submerged, and may be fixed or adjustable.

Leading Edge: The front edge of the hydrofoil, where the water first makes contact.

Trailing Edge: The rear edge of the hydrofoil.

Chord Line: An imaginary straight line connecting the leading and trailing edges.

Camber: The curvature of the hydrofoil, which is crucial for generating lift.

Shear-off Points: Designed to break away upon impact, preserving the integrity of the main vessel in case of collisions.

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guys imagine if we js use like only fast airfoil and not stable cuz aint that creative

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guys imagine if we js use like only fast airfoil and not stable cuz aint that creative

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But like we need a stable base for our boat :3

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But like we need a stable base for our boat :3

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what if we do something thats really fast but not durable, another thats very stable not fast and our main one is the middle so like the side quests are the weird ones

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I advice to use 3D printing to print out the design before we use the materials to try to make it

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If you want it fast but not very stable, balsa ribs with heat-shrink film is great — about RM 50–90 total per m², super light and smooth but weak. Foam core with plastic film is cheaper at RM 20–45 per m², very slick but can flutter. Thin fiberglass over foam costs RM 80–140 per m², a bit stronger but still light.

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If all are finished equally smooth, HDPE and fiberglass epoxy have the lowest surface drag in water — but for a scale sailboat, shape smoothness matters way more than base material.
For pure simplicity, XPS + tape is unbeatable in the “cheap, light, easy” category, and gives plenty low resistance.

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💡 Pro trick:
For any of these materials, a quick rub-down with wet 2000–3000 grit sandpaper (or polish compound) will noticeably cut skin friction in water — even over tape.

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If you want it super stable but not necessarily fast, thick fiberglass over a solid foam or wood core is a good choice — around RM 100–160 per m², heavy but very strong. Aluminum sheet with internal ribs costs RM 80–120 per m², tough and resists bending, but adds weight. Marine plywood is the cheapest at RM 30–60 per m², very sturdy but quite heavy.

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MATERIAL NEEDED:

fiberglass

sander machine

sand paper

xps foam

fiberglass harderner(resin)

1) sculp xps foam/balsa plywood to the desire hull of hull of the ship.

2)cut the fiberglass to cover the sculpt shape around the foam

3)pour resin and with for it to dry

4)sand it down slowly increasing the grit

5) test and modify

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If you want something in the middle, with decent speed and decent stability, use a fiberglass and carbon fiber hybrid over a foam core. It costs around RM 60–120 per m², is lighter than pure fiberglass, and stiffer than foam or balsa with film. It’s smooth enough for good speed and strong enough to handle moderate stress without bending much.

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does anyone has idea how we are gonna like steer the ship. like are we using dc motors.

the wind will help cause when we are going to test it in the pool the teacher will put like a fan at the front which I suppose helps us steer the boat

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Red - important information

Green - research

White - chat

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The keel is one of the most important parts of any ship or sailboat. It’s the long, central structure that runs along the very bottom of the hull. You can think of it as the ship’s “spine.” It serves two main purposes:

1. Strength & Stability – The keel supports the framework of the boat and keeps it balanced in the water, preventing it from tipping over.

2. Directional Control – On sailboats, the keel also stops the boat from sliding sideways when the wind pushes against the sails. This helps us steer and maintain our course.

For our sailboat project, the keel is crucial because it will:

Keep our model steady in the water.

Show how real sailboats resist the force of the wind.

Demonstrate the engineering principle that stability comes from having weight low down (like a counterbalance).

Without the keel, our sailboat would easily capsize or drift sideways instead of moving forward. By including it, we’re making our design more realistic and learning how sailors use physics to their advantage.

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Curved top, flat bottom → makes air move faster on top, creating lift.

Balanced thickness → thick = more lift but more drag, thin = less drag but weaker; balance gives strength + efficiency.

Rounded leading edge → keeps airflow smooth, prevents stalls.

High lift-to-drag ratio → means you get lots of lift without wasting energy fighting drag.

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https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_pLFKrI9ie47W2TUbZb0MuNolkumVvdrZOHGqrOH16U/edit?tab=t.0