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Silk is a natural fiber recognized for its durability, gloss, and durability. Silk embodies the meaning of luxury, characterized by its high production cost, soft and buttery feel, and elegant nature. This is why it has become a highly requested textile in high-end, couture fashion design and luxury brands.

References:

Education for Sustainable Development Toolkit. (n.d.-b). https://www.ramsar.org/sites/default/files/documents/library/esd_toolkit_version_2.pdf

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There are many varieties of insects used to create silk, the most known one is the larvae of "Bombyx more" - (the caterpillar of the domestic silkmoth). This larvae produce one of the most requested material with many properties.

Even though silk is lightweigth and delicate, one filament of silk is stronger than a comparable filament of steel.

References:

How is silk made? A step by step guide: Biddle Sawyer Silks. Biddle Sawyers Silk. (2024, July 30). https://biddlesawyersilks.com/how-is-silk-made-a-step-by-step-guide/#:~:text=There%20are%20many%20different%20ways,strong%2C%20uniform%20piece%20of%20fabric.

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Step-by-step guide:

1. Sericulture:

-The process of gathering the silkworms and harvesting the cocoon. Attached to a secure frame, "the silkworms start to spin its silk cocoon by rotating its body in a figure-8 movement around 300,000 times- a process which takes around 3 to 8 days." (How is silk made? A step by step guide: Biddle Sawyer Silks 2024)

-It takes approximately 2,500 silkworms to produce one pound of raw silk.

2. Thread extraction: Once the cocoons are made, they will be enclosed inside It, and now it's time to extract the silk thread.

-The cocoons are placed in boiling water to soften and dissolve the gum that glues the cocoons together.

-Each thread is reeled from the cocoon in long threads, which after that are wound on a reel.

3. Dyeing: Traditional silk (which has almost become extinct) dying takes the dye from natural resources (fruits or indigo plant leaves). Threads are soaked in a pot of hot indigo leaves and water multiple times over a span of days to ensure a perfect color, tone, and quality.

-Artificially dyed silk follows the same idea as the traditional technique; the silk is immersed in a dye bath, soaking up the color.

-Manufacturers now prefer piece-dying rather than dying in bulk to reduce waste.

4. Spinning: The process of spinning unwinds the dyed fibers onto a bobbin; they lay flat, ready for the weaving process.

5. Weaving: Weaving is the process in which the final piece of silk comes together and is ready to be used. There are various woven techniques, including satin, plain, and open wave, which are the most common.

-Weaving involves interlacing two sets of threads so that they intertwine around each other, creating a strong, uniform fabric.

6. Printing:

Digital silk printing: uses a specific textile printer, using ink to transfer hand or digitally drawn artwork into the fabric.

Screen printing: traditional, more hands-on method in which the color may look more vibrant due to a thicker application of ink.

7. Finishing: Silk finishing can be done in diverse ways by applying different chemical treatments, which can make fire resistance and crease-proofing, among other properties.

References:

How is silk made? A step-by-step guide: Biddle Sawyer Silks. Biddle Sawyers Silk. (2024, July 30). https://biddlesawyersilks.com/how-is-silk-made-a-step-by-step-guide/#:~:text=There%20are%20many%20different%20ways,strong%2C%20uniform%20piece%20of%20fabric.

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Historical Origins and spread:

China: Silk production began before 300 BCE, some legend says it started with the Yellow Emperor's wife.

Mashan Tombs (Zhou Dynasty): Ancient examples of brocade and embroidery found from the Zhou dynasty.

Han Dynasty: Silk became a mejor export along the Silk Road.

Song Dynasty: Introduced Kesi, a refined and elegant silk tapestry technique.

Yuan Dynasty: Exported several silk panels to Europe.

Silk in Imperial China:

Ming and Qing Dynasties: Rich symbolism and vibrant designs. Dragon robes (Chaofu, Caifu) included imperial symbols and Buddhist/Daoist motifs.

Mandarin squares: Showed rank in official robes.

Silk outside China:

India: Adopted sericulture by 140 BCE; exported by 2nd century CE.

Japan: Developed its own silk culture. Japan modernised silk production, becoming a global supplier. Japan eventually overtook as a main supplier with modernised techniques.

Persia: Became a trade center; crafts flourished under Parthians.

Europe:

Rome: Silk reached Rome via trade.

Greece: In the 4th century BCE, Aristotle noted that sericulture existed on the island of Kos. That knowledge was lost, then reintroduced into Byzantium from China in the 6th century CE.

Italy and France: Became leading silk producers in the Middle Ages and Renaissance.

France: Silk weaving flourished especially in Italian city-states and Lyon, France. The 1854 silkworm plague devastated France's industry; Italy was saved thanks to Pasteur's research.

References:

Encyclopædia Britannica, inc. (2025, May 24). Silk. Encyclopædia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/topic/silk

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What was the Silk Road?

A network of trade routes from China to Europe (!30 B.C.E.-1453 C.E.)

Named by Ferdinand von Richthofen in 1877.

Enabled exchange of goods, ideas, religions, and technologies.

Travel & Trade:

Spanned 4,000 miles through deserts and mountains.

Traders traveled in caravans; caravanserais offered rest stops.

Traded goods: silk, jade, porcelain, spices (East) and horses, textiles, glass (West).

Cultural Impact:

Spread religion, inventions (gunpowder), and disease (Black Death).

Created multicultural cities and influenced world history.

Famous Traveler:

Marco Polo journeyed to China, stayed at Kublai Khan's court, and documented his travels.

Legacy:

Influenced the Age of Exploration.

Parts are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

References:

The Silk Road. Education. (n.d.). https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/silk-road/

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Strong, elastic and flexible:

Silk is one of the strongest natural fibers, made of long protein threads with excellent elasticity.

Its flexibility allows it to return to shape after stretching, making garments durable and long-lasting.

Historically used in parachutes and hot air balloons due to its strength.

Absorbent and fast drying:

Absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet.

Excellent moisture-wicking properties, keeps skin dry and comfortable.

Fast drying, ideal for daily wear and easy laundering.

Takes dye well, creating beautiful colors with less water and chemicals.

Hypoallergenic and Eco-Friendly:

Gentle on sensitive skin, friction-free.

Antimicrobial and resistant to insect bites.

Biodegradable as it breaks down in 1-2 years, making it a sustainable choice.

Breathable & Thermoregulating:

Maintains body temperature: cool in summer, warm in winter.

Allows for air circulation, preventing overheating.

Comfortable for year-round wear and bedding.

Luxurious Appearance:

Naturally lustrous and smooth (not shiny like synthetic silk).

Drapes beautiful without clinging.

Timeless & Versatile:

Perfect for clothing, accessories, underwear, scarves and bedding.

Long-lasting investment: pieces can last for many generations.

Eco-conscious and stylish alternative to synthetic fabrics.

References:

Patra, R. (2023, March 10). Properties of silk. Patra Selections Blog: Silk Clothing and Underwear. https://blog.patra.com/2023/03/10/properties-of-silk/

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Composition:

Silk is made of two main proteins, sericin and fibroin.

Fibroin is the structural center of the silk. Sericin is the sticky material surrounding it.

The high proportion of(50%) of glycine allows tight packing.

Glycine has no side chain and is unencumbered by steric strain.

The addition of alanine and serine makes the fibres strong and resistant to breaking.

This tensile strength is due to the many interceded hydrogen bonds, when stretched the force is applied to these numerous bonds and they do not break.

Fibroin is made up of the amino acids Gly-Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala and forms beta pleated sheets.

Hydrogen bonds form between chains, and side chains are oriented above and below the plane of the hydrogen bond network.

Silk resists most mineral acids, except sulfuric acid, which dissolves it.

It can be yellowed by perspiration.

Chlorine bleach will also destroy silk fabrics.

References:

Chemical nature of silk and properties of silk. (n.d.-a). https://www.jagiroadcollegelive.co.in/attendence/classnotes/files/1587912255.pdf

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Animal welfare concern:

Most Bombyx mori silkworms are killed before emerging as moths to preserve the long filament fibers.

This is done by steaming or boiling.

Peace silk (Ahimsa silk) Allows moths to emerge naturally before cocoons are harvested. Results in shorter, broken fibers, which produce lower-quality silk.

Wild silk: Collected after moths emerge, found in natural forests. Lower in quality due to shorter, uneven fibers.

Concerns: Conventional silk contradicts vegan or cruelty-free principles.

Mulberry farming:

Mulberry leaves are the sole food source for Bombyx more silkworms.

Typically require less chemical input than cotton, but:

Chemical pesticides and fertilisers (dyathin-M-45) may be used.

Runoff from manure-based fertilisers contributes to eutrophication:

Leads to algae bloom, fish kills, and water ecosystem damage.

Problematic in countries like India where subsidies exists for fertilizers.

Every mature tree feeds- 100 silkworms --> 3,000 cocoons = 1 yard of silk --> high land usage.

Water & energy demands in tree irrigation can be significant.

High Energy Consumption:

Heating water to boil cocoons.

Maintainig controlled temperature environments for silkworm rearing.

Transporting materials across multiple production stages.

Nevertheless, silks high energy efficiency relative to synthetic materials:

Some studies show silk formation is 1,000x more efficient than polyethylene.

High Water Usage:

Water is needed extensively for:

Reeling (unwinding cocoon fibers).

Processing and cleaning to remove sericin.

Recommendations

Encourage facilities to implement water treatment and recycling systems.

This reduces operational costs and lowers environmental impact over time.

Chemical usage:

Formalin, bleaches, and dyes can pollute if not treated.

Reeling and processing chemicals: used to clean silk and remove sericin.

Common issue: Untreated wastewater discharge.

Contains chemicals toxins and organic waste, contributing to:

Groundwater contamination

Land degradation

Eutrophication

While silk used fewer chemical finishes than cotton/synthetics, it relies heavily on chemical dyes.

Silk works well with natural dyes, but are less commonly used in commercial production.

More sustainable options:

Organic Silk (GOTS certified): Fewer chemicals, verified practices.

Peace/Ahimsa Silk: Moths are not killed, but lifespan is still short.

Wild Silk: Harvested after moths emerge; coarser, lower quality, but more ethical.

Recommendations:

Recommendation: Using peace of wild silk when prioritising animal ethics, understanding the trade-off in quality.

Organically grown mulberry trees and with natural rainfall, avoiding synthetic inputs and groundwater pollution.

Reducing carbon footprint by using cleaner energy sources and optimising production flow.

Phasing out toxic chemicals.

Ensuring wastewater treatment before discharging.

Promoting more natural and low-impact dyes within the supply chain.

References:

CFDA. (n.d.). https://cfda.com/resources/materials/detail/silk

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Women's Clothing: Bridal Wear, evening gowns, formal dresses, lingerie, blouses, among other.

Men's Clothing: Dress Shirts and suits, inside a jacket or pair of trousers, on the front of decorative waistcoats, among other.

Home Décor: Curtains, Bed Sheets & Duvets, Pillows, Upholstery, Throw covers, Wallpaper.

Beauty products: Sponges, towels, face masks, pyjamas, among other.

References:

The many different uses of silk: Biddle Sawyer Silks. Biddle Sawyers Silk. (2024b, July 30). https://biddlesawyersilks.com/the-many-different-uses-of-silk/

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Eileen Fisher: Known for sustainable practices, Eileen Fisher has used Ahimsa silk in some of its collections.

ElleSilk: Specializes in luxury silk bedding, including silk duvet covers and pillowcases.

Ethical Silk Company: Focuses on ethically sourced mulberry silk.

Loewe: Uses silk in its women's and men's knitwear and other collections.

Herth: Emphasises certified organic silk in its garments.

Lanius: Creates silk blouses and other apparel, often with a focus on sustainable luxury.

Valentino, Dior, and Vera Wang: Known for using silk in their haute couture designs.

Stella McCartney: Uses organic silk, Peace Silk, and Bioengineered spider silk.

Among other

References:

Marjot, A. (2024, May 23). Environmental impacts of economic growth: DP IB Environmental Systems & Societies (ESS) revision notes 2024. Save My Exams. https://www.savemyexams.com/dp/environmental-systems-and-societies-ess/ib/24/hl/revision-notes/10-environmental-economics/10-4-economic-growth-and-impacts/environmental-impacts-of-economic-growth/

Team, E. (2024, January 15). Unraveling the threads of ahimsa silk and Sustainable Fashion. CommonShare News. https://news.commonshare.com/blog/unraveling-the-threads-of-ahimsa-silk-and-sustainable-fashion#:~:text=Eileen%20Fisher%20Eileen%20Fisher%2C%20a%20well%2Dknown%20sustainable,Ahimsa%20silk%20in%20some%20of%20their%20collections.

ElleSilk. (2023, August 11). Top brands for silk duvet covers. ElleSilk.com Blog. https://www.ellesilk.com/blog/top-brands-silk-duvet-covers/#:~:text=ElleSilk:%20ElleSilk%20is%20a%20trusted%20brand%20that,for%20their%20softness%2C%20durability%2C%20and%20luxurious%20appeal.

Mulberry Silk Sleepwear. The Ethical Silk Company. (n.d.). https://theethicalsilkco.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopei-aZ27wZVweDMmFXGMz0GbROy04czupcpuPa-KudHHk-wPLy

About Herth® – conscious luxury in organic silk: Made in Italy. HERTH. (n.d.). https://byherth.com/pages/about-herth-premium-organic-silk-fashion#:~:text=HERTH®%20is%20a%20brand%20that%20celebrates%20the,organic%20silk.%20Certified%20and%20traceable%20supply%20chain.

La Muse Geneva. https://www.lamusegeneva.com/shop/p/lanius-timeless-silk-blouse-midnight-blue#:~:text=Made%20from%2092%%20silk%20and%208%%20elastane%2C,is%20your%20new%20go%2Dto%20for%20effortless%20elegance.

Gst-Pg. (2025, January 24). Silk, the luxury material that defines high-end fashion. papisgroup.com. https://www.papisgroup.com/en/articoli-blog-en/silk-luxury-material-high-end-fashion/

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Silkworms are intensively farmed and begin spinning cocoons around 35 days old.

In nature, silkworms stay in cocoons for 16 days before emerging as moths.

To prevent damage to silk threads, producers kill silkworms by boiling, steaming, freezing, or gassing them before they emerge.

Approximately one trillion silkworms are killed annually for silk production.

After harvesting, silk strands are dyed, spun into threads, and woven into fabric.

References:

Henry, D. (2024, May 2). Is silk ethical or sustainable? reexamining home luxury. Amity Worrel. https://amityworrel.com/2024/05/02/is-silk-ethical-or-sustainable-material-to-use-in-home-design/#:~:text=Silk%20is%20a%20natural%20material,and%20fly%20out%20as%20moths.