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Introduction: BEST DIY Paintball Grenade

This is hands down the best recipe for making paint grenades that will obliterate an entire room or 15ft radius when thrown and are 100% reusable (if you are able to retrace your steps to find the cap and tubing). Either way, despite initial start up costs, they are still more economical than buying the same quantity of Tippmann Big Boy grenades (which these are modeled after). Materials:
1" diameter PVC pipe cut to 3/4 inch lengths
1/8" x 1-1/2" cotter pins 1-1/4" key rings
Black Heavy Gauge Surgical Tubing 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID x 1/8" wall (cut to 6 inch lengths)

Hog Rings (zip ties may be substituted but not as ideal)

Paint Mix (3 part water 1 part washable non-toxic paint from Walmart)

Scrap piece of copper or other metal pipe approx 3/8 in diameter.
Tools: Forceps/Hemostats Curved Needle Nose Pliers
Hog Ring Pliers (if you go this route necessary)

Blow torch

Fill Station (see my other Instructable if you don't have your own method of filling)

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Step 1: Cut and Mark Tubing

Setup:
Mark on a table top 4 lines with a sharpie. Farthest left and right lines are 6 inches apart and I marked with a black sharpie. The middle two are 3-1/4 inches and 5-1/4 inches from the left most mark. These were marked with a silver sharpie for later.

Lay tubing out and use this scale to cut repeated 6 inch lengths.

Once you have all of your cut tubing done, go back with a silver sharpie and lay the tubing back where you cut it between the two outer most lines. Use the silver sharpie to mark on the black tubing the two other middle line marks (one will be where we cut a hole, the other will be where we hold the PVC cap while filling). Once marked, the left side of the tubing will be the bottom of the grenade and the right will be to top/nozzle where the paint will spray out from. The silver mark on the right will be where we make the hole to spin/spew paint.

Step 2: Cut PVC and Make Pull Rings/pins

1. Cut PVC pipe to 3/4 inches on miter saw or with hand saw/what have you. Painting is optional but will look more authentic. If you are going to paint them, it is best to sand the whole piece of pipe before cutting so paint will stick and you won't have to sand all of the individual pieces after you cut.

2. Slip cotter pins onto key rings to make pull pins.

Step 3: Cut Nozzle Hole and Crimp Tubing Ends.

Using 3/8 diameter piece of copper pipe and a lighter or blowtorch, heat up pipe and press thru tubing with pipe just touching mark line closest to the top end of grenade tube. Slip a skinny piece of wood or other material into tubing so you don't go all the way thru the other side of the tubing.

Step 4: Crimp Ends With Hog Ties

Crimp both ends of the tubing. Hog rings are pictured being used and will hold better than zip ties. They allow you to get closer to the end of the tubing without it sliding out. Zipties tend to slip and require a little extra tubing to stick past them in order to hold fast. See photos for orientation of crimping.

Step 5: Start Filling

See video for walkthru. Much easier than typing it all out.

Grenade filling video:

Step 6: Testing

Grenade Test Video:

This video was the second one I shot because I had a bad throw the first time. To get the best results, you need to have the grenade bounce up into the air one way or another. If you throw it against a wall it will begin spinning but get interrupted by the second impact when it hits the ground a second or two later. It will still throw out decent coverage. But for best results it should be thrown up high so when it comes down, it bounces back up allowing it to spin and empty all of it's paint while in mid air. I use these mainly for room clearing in paintball games.

For example, you and an enemy are in adjacent rooms in a building. Neither of you wanting to go through the door first so it turns into a stalemate where you both just sit tight watching the door for the other. That's where these grenades have been crazy effective. If you have a teammate with you, have them cover the door so you can lower your gun and pull out a grenade. Press down on the PVC cap and pull the pin out. Then throw grenade around the corner at a downward angle (imagine an NFL player spiking the football after a touchdown) into the room. This will cause the grenade to bounce back up high enough to dump all of the paint 360 degrees into the room and take out anyone in there.

Another example is to lob it high so it comes down behind a bunker in the woods and bounces that way as well. If you throw it like a baseball it will be less effective when it bounces off a wall or tree and gets interrupted by the secondary impact while it's still trying to spin.

Message me if you have any questions.

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This is hands down the best recipe for making paint grenades that will obliterate an entire room or 15ft radius when thrown and are 100% reusable (if you are able to retrace your steps to find the cap and tubing).

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I would like to try it because it's better than the regular skateboard.

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i would like to make this because i do not like the design and i would like to improve it.

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This ib can be done by every people. U can get two different size of metal right angle irons and using a zip tie to make a "J-shape" structure.As u seen in...

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I would like to make this rug because there are endless possibilities of what your rug could look like and you can get creative with it

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Introduction: How to Quickly Make a Pompom Rug

We have spools of yarn leftover from a yarn art I made last year and they're just sitting in the stockroom so I decided to make a pompom rug for our little girls' playroom.

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Step 1: Gather the Materials

Spools of yarn

Plastic rug grid

scissors

wooden frame

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We have spools of yarn leftover from a yarn art I made last year and they're just sitting in the stockroom so I decided to make a pompom rug for our little girls' playroom. Share Spools of yarn Plastic rug grid scissors wooden frame We have a be nice policy.

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I would like to make this because I find it very environment friendly, and the materials are easy to find.

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Introduction: Recycled Vertical Gardens

Looking for a simple, easy, and cheap way to create a garden?
Over the past several years, I've lived in many different apartments; I wanted a garden that I could take with me from place to place. Once I created recycled vertical gardens, I realized that these cheap creations can be made anywhere, with almost any reusable materials. The city, a classroom, with children, or the elderly... the possibilities are endless!

Recycled Vertical Gardens are:

Simple to construct.

Created using upcycled materials in order to limit waste.

Transferable from place to place.

Recycled vertical gardens are the perfect tool for growing what you need using what you already have.
Applying this Instructable to the classroom?

(With additional help from adult supervisors, students as young as 10 years-old can complete this project!)

Big Idea: Sustainability

Themes: Time* & Mark-Making

Students will:

grow food/herbs for their family and friends.

grow flowers to contribute to community aesthetics.

upcycle old containers into new gardens to limit waste.

develop patience and care-taking skills through nurturing plants to desired growth.

*For the purpose of this project, I bought plants that were already starting to grow. However, students' patience will benefit from buying seeds and watching their growth process from start to finish. Plus, it's cheaper!

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Step 1: Materials + Tools

Materials:

Plants. (house plants, outdoor plants, herbs, fruits, vegetables, low-light plants, full-sun plants, etc.)

Recycled Containers. (containers with holes work best for drainage, but all containers should work)

Twine.

Potting Mix. (All-Purpose works best)

Trash Bags.

Zip Ties.

Command Strips. (preferably heavy-duty, outdoor, holds up to 5lbs.)

Tools*:

*Components may vary depending on container application.

Step 2: Preparation

Plant Selection: When selecting your plants, read the instructional tab which comes inserted in the soil of the plant; these instructional tabs will explain prime growth season and the recommended amount of sunlight needed. If you are planting seeds, the seed packet will include this information on the back. All types of small plants should work for these vertical gardens, such as fruits, vegetables, herbs, and flowers.

My Plants: (from left to right)

Parsley: part-sun

Strawberries: full-sun

Succulent: part-sun

Pothos plant: part-sun (not pictured here)

Container Selection: Typically, any type of container will work for this project. However, the majority of my containers already had holes for water-drainage purposes. Most fruit containers, such as plastic berry containers, worked best for me.

Parsley: upcycled strawberry container.

Strawberries: upcycled strawberry container.

Succulent: upcycled cake container. (this container does not have holes, due to the fact that succulents survive well in small, concealed containers.)

Pothos: upcycled apple juice container. (once again, a container without holes. Pothos are typically vine-like house plants.)

Indoor Preparation: Open up trash bag(s) and cover your work station to contain the soil mess.

Outdoor Preparation: You're outside! Get messy!

*Teaching Tip: Have students collect their own containers from home and bring them into class! Discuss with students why they picked that container, and how they think it will benefit/hinder their plant growth.

Step 3: Plant

Planting is a very personal process; whatever strategies work for you, go for it!

For additional assistance on planting, refer to these steps:

Gently squeeze the outside of the original, black plastic container in which the plant comes in. This will loosen up the soil and reduce the likelihood of any roots being torn in the process of removing the plant from its original container.

Hold the plant from the base and gently remove it from its original container.

Place the plant, along with its original soil, in the center of its new container.

Grab 1-2 handfuls of Potting Mix and place in the new container alongside the plant.

Mix both the new and old soil around the roots to ensure a healthy growing environment.

Leave about 2 centimeters of space at the top of the new container to prevent any spills when watering.

*Teaching Tip: Model your strategies for planting to the class before having students try it on their own. You can have students research planting tutorials on YouTube if time permits.

Step 4: Construct

There are many ways to construct the hardware of your vertical gardens; I've demonstrated a few, but this part of the process is mainly trial-and-error. Find what works best for your environment!
Twine Application:

Using a pocket knife and/or scissors, cut a small slit in each of the four corners of your rectangular container.

Cut two pieces of twine, approximately 5 feet each.

Start feeding one piece of twine through the back left slit and feed it through the front left slit. Pull the twine through until both ends have an equal amount. Repeat process with the right side.

Take each piece of twine and pull them up towards the center of the plant. (see brick image for reference)

Tie a surgeon's knot (with loop at the end), using all pieces of twine, leaving a loop at the top.

Reference: How To Tie a Surgeon's Loop Knot

Zip-Tie Application:

Using a pocket knife and/or scissors, cut four slits (top left, bottom left, top right and bottom right corners) on the back side of the container.

Feed one zip tie through each slit.

*Teaching Tip: This step needs adult supervision! Demonstrate to students how to properly use the tools, or cut their slits for them before constructing.

Step 5: Apply

Now it's time to hang your recycled vertical gardens in your chosen environment!

Inside Application: Use the hammer to place the nail near sunlight. Using the twine loop, hang your plant!

Outdoor Chain-link Fence Application: Have one person hold the plant in place. Then, have an assistant reach around the fence to apply the zip ties. Make sure your plant is firmly attached to the fence!

Brick Wall Application: Using Command Strips (see instructions on the back of their package) place the hook where you desire. Make sure to press firmly on the hook. Leave the hook attached to the wall without the plant for up to 24 hours; this allows the command strip to solidify to the wall. The following day, hang your recycled vertical garden plant on the command strip(s)!
How To Apply Command Strips

*Teaching Tip: For classroom application, use Command Strips on walls near sunlight, or place suction-cup hooks on windows for plant display.

Step 6: Nourish

Water, Water, Water!
Make sure to water your plants every other day for maximum satisfaction. Only water if the top of the soil feels dry. Too much water may damage your plants. Depending on your plant, environment, and weather, water amounts may have to be modified. For further information pertaining watering, refer to: Why are my plants dying?

Frost?
If temperatures are going to reach low enough for potential frost, make sure to bring your plants inside!
Teaching Tips/Resources:

Time: with technology giving instant gratification to students, this project slows down time and directs focus to the growth process. Have the students discuss their feelings of waiting; does the duration of time make one appreciate the outcome more than before? What benefits do you receive from waiting? How can this lesson be applied in daily life?

Mark-Making: By creating these recycled vertical gardens, students are making their mark on their peers, school, and community through beautifying streets and producing food/herbs. Discuss the question, How can you contribute to your community?

Integration: This project can be integrated with teaching the life cycle of a plant, aesthetics of beauty, giving back to the community, or a lesson on recycling/upcycling.

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Please be positive and constructive.

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Looking for a simple, easy, and cheap way to create a garden? Over the past several years, I've lived in many different apartments; I wanted a garden that I could take with me from place to place. Once I created recycled vertical gardens, I realized that these cheap creations can be made anywhere, with almost any reusable materials.

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I would use this to make it easier to move the washing basket, especially when the basket is heavy it will help

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Introduction: Basketry Tooling

The tool that I have built is there to make a Basketry for a lampshade and then wrap it around the lamp.

This is based on 2 printed parts and a M6 and some nuts, therefore a specific size can be reached with the tool

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Step 1: Wrap the Structural Wire Around the Guidance Piece

The first thing that you would need to do is to wrap the rattan around it.

This need to be done Up and Down until you have reached to the defined number of vertical sections required

Step 2: Wrap Around the Rattan

Then you start to turn around with another rattan and keep going until that you reached the final measure.

Then automatically as from the moment that you pass over the 2nd wheel you can reduce the circle revolution. This will close the structure.

Be careful not to wrap it to close, give some loose otherwise it will be difficult to get back the 2 wheels that are inside at the end

Step 3: Other Picture of the Tool

Please find some other pictures from the tool

Step 4: The STL Files for the Production of the Tool With the 3d Printer

Please find the files to support you in the creation of the tool with the 3d Printer

Attachments

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Please be positive and constructive.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The tool that I have built is there to make a Basketry for a lampshade and then wrap it around the lamp. This is based on 2 printed parts and a M6 and some nuts, therefore a specific size can be reached with the tool Share The first thing that you would need to do is to wrap the rattan around it.

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I would like to make this lamp to have in my room, because I find it creative and visually pleasing.

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Introduction: Layered Sculpture Lamps

Besides being my advanced version of procrastination, this project should tell you two things about me:

1. I work off stress with my hands.

2. I really like lamps (click here to see my IoT networked ones).

Anyway, this was the byproduct of a need to work off stress from the summer internship search (the sting of rejections...). Inspiration came from a raindrop lamp I saw a while ago, in addition to layered veneer sculptures that I've made before.

What's included in this tutorial: I made three total "sculptures:"

The first design is taken and slightly altered from my previous veneer sculptures; go to that tutorial for instructions on how I created the floral design.

The second design demonstrates how to do an "offset path" function on an image traced from the internet.

The third design features fiddling around in Adobe Illustrator (any graphics software would suffice) to create designs, similar to the first design.

Side note: If you like this project, votes in the Papercraft Contest would be appreciated!

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Step 1: Materials

paper (anything ranging from light-weight cardstock to printer paper would be fine. Even thinner is great too in terms of allowing light to shine through, but then there's less structural integrity. The thicker your paper, the less light will shine through -- keep that in mind!)

X-acto knife or box cutter -- something that can cut through paper with precision (I know, not my description of a box cutter but it worked for me...)

glue

light source (I used LED string lights that I had lying around, but plan to move to wall scone suitable lighting later. Be careful with what you chose: remember that paper can burn and start fires if you use light sources with high heat dissipation. LED is usually quite safe, but incandescent bulbs, etc not so much. [Thanks to KeifD for pointing this out!])

For making your own designs: any vector graphics software (Adobe Illustrator is always my weapon of choice, but Inkscape is a free alternative.)

Step 2: Flower Design: Illustrator

This flower design is taken and altered slightly from my other instructable on layered designs. You can check that instructable out to see instructions on how I created this design, but files are also attached in a zip folder to this step.

Once you have all these designs, the idea is that you open each pdf (or you can use the Illustrator file if you have it) and enlarge it on your computer screen. Then you can put your paper (patterned side down) on the screen and trace the design onto the paper before using your knife to carefully cut it out. Painstaking, but unless you have a laser cutter or other CNC cutter, that's the best option.

To size the layers correctly, listed below are the length x height dimensions (for overall size of 5"):

You can use the transform tool in Illustrator in the .ai file of the zip folder to resize all the dimensions to scale if you want something bigger or smaller than 5".

Attachments

Step 3: Assembly

After you've cut out all the flowers, you'll need to attach them with small spacers. I did this but cutting out 1/8" x 1/4" rectangles (yes, these are tiny..) and folding the long edges to meet at the middle (see second image above).

Then I just glued the tabs (apply glue on one of the folded sides) onto one face of each cutout: I put them at intersection points of the cutout for stability. Once the tabs were dried on each cutout, I applied more glue on the other side of the tab and stacked the cutouts.

Now the sculpture's done! To light it up, I just balanced it on top of string lights for now (the bulbs fit surprisingly well in the hollow areas). Notice that both the top and bottom make for interesting lamps...

NOTE: Be careful with what you chose for a light source: remember that paper can burn and start fires if you use light sources with high heat dissipation. LED is usually quite safe, but incandescent bulbs, etc not so much. (Thanks to KeifD for pointing this out!)

Step 4: RWBY Rose: Design Part 1

For the RWBY rose design, the cutouts are the inverted design that I wanted so I had to trace and draw in the outline. Follow the notes in the pictures above for step-by-step instructions on how I did that. (final zip file attached to next step)

Step 5: RWBY Rose: Design Part 2

Now that I had the right cutout design, I just needed to create offset layers. This is a slightly different method from what I did for the first flower design, in which I scaled each design outward (as opposed to offset = scale inward and outward). This offset means that I lose the hollow hole cutout parts in my design, which I though would be fine (but I was wrong D: ).

Then cut all the layers out like done previously. The sizes of the layers are:

See the notes in the pictures above for step-by-step instructions on the graphics part. Final zip file is attached to this step.

Attachments

Step 6: RWBY Rose Design: Assembly + Tentative Failure

I assembled the layers in the same way that I did the first flower, but this time the problem was that the offset paths method closed up my hollow parts. I had layers of paper blocking the path of light from the bottom (see third image above to see how severe the blockage was).

Not all hope is lost (or all hope is not lost?). The right way to light this up would be to shine light from the sides (so frame the sculpture and add lighting facing toward the layers, not behind them). I didn't have the motivation to build this set up (at least not for now), but I simulated that in the first image. The shadows would create interesting effects, especially if you use an addressable LED strip that had a chasing animation pattern (so the shadows would be constantly shifting) -- an idea to table for the future...

Step 7: Squares Design

This time I learned from my mistake and created cutouts for my design using the scaling function instead of "offset paths."

This design is made just from rotation of squares: pretty simple, but the geometry looks aesthetically pleasing... In any case, click through the pictures above to see instructions on how to create the design in Adobe Illustrator (you could use any graphics software you'd like though).

Once the design is finished, use the Transform > Scale function to make each successive copy ~105% larger than the previous. I stopped after 6 layers to get the design you see in the last image above.

See step-by-step instructions in the notes of the pictures above.

Final zip file is attached to this step.

Attachments

Step 8: Assembly

Like before, scale the images on your computer screen, trace, and cut out each layer. Sizes of the layers are as follows:

Then create the 1/4" x 1/8" spacers and stack the layers to form the final piece!

Step 9: Finished and Future Steps

I really enjoyed playing around with shadows with this lighting project, but the next step is to mount these designs to the wall and enjoy the lighting as subtle wall scones. I also want to get the "offset path" method of creating layered designs to work, probably by using thinner paper that light could definitely penetrate. My only problem with thinner paper is that cutting it with a knife is tricky unless you have a really sharp knife that won't create a ragged edge and rip the paper.

More ideas to try out:

Try the "addressable LED with chasing animation (so the shadows would be constantly shifting)" idea from the RWBY rose design

I used solid color paper but try doing this with patterned paper, or paper with different weights.

You could also use printer paper: print out specific designs and have the white backside facing outward so that the color is hidden. The color will only be revealed when the light is turned on.

Splice colors of the cutout together so that certain regions (like slices of a pie) are certain colors.

The holes in the cutouts were a bit... distracting (? can't find the right word) since you could see clearly through them. They'd probably look nicer with tissue paper or vellum covering them: that way they still allow a lot of light through but you wouldn't be able to see the layers below them.

All my shapes were scaled outward isotropically but maybe asymmetric scaling would look interesting.
On that note, try rotating each design with less scaling to get a twisted/warped geometry...

Turn this into an enclosed lamp by creating two sets of layers and gluing them back to back, sealing the light source in side.

As always, leave comments and questions below and I'll help when I can. Enjoy!

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

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Besides being my advanced version of procrastination, this project should tell you two things about me: I work off stress with my hands. I really like lamps (click here to see my IoT networked ones). Anyway, this was the byproduct of a need to work off stress from the summer internship search (the sting of rejections...).

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I would use this to explore the forests and hills around my home.