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What Did Women Wear in the 1940s? In a nutshell, 1940s women's fashion was about creating a certain silhouette: wide padded shoulders, nipped in high waist tops, and A-line skirts that came down to the knee. This was the everyday shape for clothing, from suits to dresses. Even pants had a similar shape. 1940s fashions were all about the hour glass figure with broad shoulders, tiny waists and full hips. If you were not naturally an hour glass shape, the clothes were designed to help you achieve the look.

Here is a thorough overview of everyday 1940s fashions with links to more articles and shopping sources.

1940s Women's Dresses

With the start of the war and a strict rationing on fabric, dresses in the 1940s became shorter. Whereas the 1930s featured dresses down to mid calf, the 1940s brought them up to knee length. The war also affected the top of the dress.

Women's clothes took on a masculine militant look with the invention of shoulder pads. Every dress, blouse or jacket was fitted with shoulder pads that extended just past the edge of the shoulder. This made for a boxy or square neckline and shoulder angle. Sleeves were often puffed up a bit with gathers at the top and extended down to just above the elbow.

The neckline of the 1940s came in a variety of cut outs. They could be square, slit, sweetheart, keyhole, shirred, cross front (wrap), or V with shirtwaist (button down) tops. There was no cleavage! All dress top designs revealed very little skin, compared to today's fashion. Learn about common 1940s dress styles.

Evening dresses were the exception. They were spaghetti strapped or halter topped that revealed shoulders and chests but only mild cleavage. Skirts were long and full in the early '40s and sleek by the end of the decade.

Later in the 1940s, more fabric could be used and more fabric choices were available. In order to forget the depressing war, women embraced colorful patterns with contrasting trims. Fabric material was usually rayon, a newer synthetic invention. America cotton was also a favorite for house dresses. The material was light and airy. Stiffer, wool like fabrics were used on suits and work wear.

Plus size fashion in the 1940s was not something overlooked like it had been in previous decades. Most women were not the ideal curvy hour glass shape. As women matured, bodies matured, too, and women found themselves shopping for clothing with a different eye on fashion.

Catalogs and department stores now carried "stout" size clothing lines with dresses, tops, coats, and shoes in designs that were more flattering to the fuller figure. Beauty tips and fashion advice books were full of Do's and Don'ts for dressing a woman's best.

Read fashion a dvice to plus size women here. See more examples of 1940s plus size fashion here.

1940s Dresses for sale:

Tea or Day Dresses: Colors and styles appropriate for day time wear / tea dresses. Shirtwaist dresses are included, too.

Pinup Dresses: Sexy, form fitting dresses in the style of 1940s and 1950s pinups.

1940s Plus Size Dresses: 1940s style dresses is sizes up to 6XL

Formal Dresses: Long gowns for elegant evenings and prom

Cocktail Dresses: Short and long dresses fancy enough for a cocktail party

Wedding Dresses: Lace, silk or satin modest wedding dresses inspired by the 1940s

1940s Women's Suits

The shortage of fabric also caused the popularity of the two piece suit known as a Victory or Utility suit. Women could mix and match skirts, blouses and jackets for a new outfit everyday. Even after the war the suits remained popular due to its comfort and practicality.

Suit skirts were A-line, not pencil. This means they flared out gradually from the hip to the knee. Dresses from the early years didn't have any pleats or gathers because that wasted fabric. The later '40s had some pleats and a wide "A" shape and even included some pockets. Teenagers were the biggest fans of skirts. They loved plaids and stripes and full skirts making the latest fad- swing dancing- easier to move in. Learn more about 1940s skirt history and s hop 1940s skirts.

Blouses were the next part of a suit. They could also be worn plain or with a light cardigan sweater over them. Blouses were either a solid color or a fun striped pattern. They could be short sleeved like dresses, or long sleeved with puffy gathers and tight wide cuffs at the wrist. They usually buttoned down all the way and had a small V-neck or round Peter Pan collar neck opening. Learn more about and shop 1940s blouses.

Finally the suit jacket topped the outfit. Jackets were of the same materiel as the skirt but could be mismatched if that's all you had. They had the same padded, wide shoulder, high neckline, and nipped in waist with only a slight flair at the bottom. The lower edge of the jacket came to mid hip length. Jackets were button down and featured a variety of lapel width, points and shapes. It wasn't necessary to wear a blouse under a suit jacket but was often more comfortable. The bolero jacket was a nice, short, rounded edge jacket that was worn over a blouse. They rarely buttoned in front- preferring to hang open and show off the blouse. Sleeves were always long and narrow.

1940s Pants

Pants or trousers were primarily a men's wear item only until the 1940s. Women

working in factories needed safe clothing that wouldn't snag in machinery. At first women just wore mens' pants. Later manufactures made pants for women, although they still looked very masculine. They were very high waisted, button or zippered down the side and had full legs with wide cuffs at the bottom. They were made of cotton, denim or wool blends. Women wore them at work mostly but soon became a part of their casual wardrobe at home and for fun.

Overalls and coveralls were another work wear turned sportswear option. Made of blue denim or sturdy cotton, they have become a symbol of the 1940s Rosie the Riveter.
Read more about 1940s women's pants or SHOP for 1940s style pants and overalls:
1940s Coats

Early 1940s coats were very square and usually plain. They had a few large buttons down the front, plain or cuffed narrow sleeves, and a variety of necklines. They were long, down to the knee, to keep warm and covered up. Shorter box coats hung to the hip in a wide cape like fashion with big bell sleeves.

Fur trims were still very popular like in the '30s. Fox was the best and other furs were dyed to look like fox. For formal wear, fur stoles and capes were a must.
Read more about and shop 1940s women's coats.
1940s Shoes

Shoes of the 1940s lacked the elaborate detailing of the '30s and were mostly plain, sturdy and "chunky." What makes them special is not the style but the material. Leather was needed for the war, so shoes came in velvet, mesh, reptile skins, and even all wood (clogs). Heels were short and thick in the early '40s and slightly thinner in the late 1940s. The later shoes were called pumps.

The 1940s were notable for the popularization for the wedge or wedgie. The wedge sole was all one piece, gave moderate height and was considered safer than tall pumps. They came in solid slip-ons or fun summer sandal types. The peep toe was one common style. It was a small slit in the front of the toe. Peep toes could be seen on pumps, sandals and wedges.

The more casual style of shoes were O xfords and saddle shoes. These single or two tone shoes resembled men's shoes with a rounded toe. Slip on loafers were an alternative to Oxfords. They were causal, comfortable and all the rage with teenagers and working women.
Read more about 1940s Women's Shoe Styles and SHOP for 1940s style shoes:
1940s Swimsuits and Beachwear

Swimsuits came in one piece and, for the first time, two pieces. One piece suits were tighter fitted than in the '30s, and had padded bras for support and thin shoulder straps. The neckline was a V but revealed little cleavage. A halter top style was very popular as well. The suit bottom came to the top of the thigh in either a skirt shape or slightly loose shorts.

The two piece suit was like the one piece but with the middle cut out. The pants came up high above the belly button with only about 4 inches of space between the top and bottom. The Bikini invented in 1946 was similar in style but tighter and lower on the waist. They were too revealing for most women's taste.

Beachwear, called play suits, were really just very short dresses that wrapped over a swimsuit. They were button down, loose fitting dresses in light cotton. They were also high waist shorts, with a swimsuit style halter top. These were mostly worn by teens and younger single women. Mature women had play clothes as well but they were longer and more conservative.

Read more about the styles of 1940s swimsuits and shop for vintage inspired swimsuits

1940s Hats

Head wear of the 1940s was very diverse. There were only a few new styles that became trademarks of the 1940s. The first was the beret- a one piece round, flat, french inspired hat that sat directly on top or angled off to the side. The next hat was the turban- a piece of fabric wrapped around the head and decorated with flowers, feathers or jewels. Small hats with veils were another trademark style. They were not practical for sun protection, merely decorative. Shop 1940s hats.

Working women had to keep their hair tied back. They wore hair snoods- knit bags that gathered hair back and out of the way or scarves tied around and up. Rosie the Riveter made the hair scarf a recognizable icon of the 1940s. They were made of silk with a variety of fun hand painted patterns.

Hair flower clips were another summer decoration for young girls, pinups and women looking to dress up a party dress. Small daisy flowers or big chrysanthemums made of rayon or silk were often handmade at home. Shop hair flowers, snoods, clips and more.

1940s Gloves

Gloves in the 1940s continue to have the gauntlet mid arm length and shape during the war years. The elaborate trim was removed and the overall fussiness of the 1930s was replaced by plain gloves once again. Gloves were usually only worn for semi formal occasions such as an afternoon gathering, shopping, visiting friends or going to lunch. Colors usually matched just one accessory such as a hat or belt. Neutral colors were preferred: black, brown, navy, tan and white.

In the evenings, long opera gloves were often worn with beautiful ballgowns.

Learn more about vintage glove history here and shop for vintage inspired gloves here.

1940s Jewelry

1940s women's jewelry played an important role during the somber war time. Colorful bold bead necklaces, large floral brooches and chunky earrings added cheerfulness to otherwise plain clothing. Patriotic themes such as a V for victory, flags, and red, white, blue gems kept women focusing on their duty. Jewelry became affordable with new plastics like Bakelite and settings that required less metal. Read more about 1940s jewelry styles.

Handbags and Purses

With a duty to work, volunteer or manage a household by oneself, women needed a handbag that carried more than the small 1930s clutches. Day bags were inspired my military service messenger bags with long shoulder straps that were carried over the shoulder or across the body when riding a bike. For something prettier, a large (at least 12 inches) flat envelope purse in plain black or brown leather or plastic held a woman's growing collection of beauty products. The ruched or scallop treatment on bags is an iconic style of this decade.

Evening bags remained small and shiny with black satin as the preferred material. Sparkle in the form of beading or sequins on the clasp added just a touch more elegance.

After the war, purses took on a New Look with new bold colors- red, green, yellow, and a return to geometric shapes (box purses and circle vanity bags). Read more about 1940s handbag history.

1940s Bra, Underwear and Stockings

Ahh the undergarments or foundation garments were the sole of 1940s fashion. They created the hour glass shape with smooth lines that was critical to '40s fashion. They were also very uncomfortable. Girdles were the worst offenders. They looked like granny panties but with much tighter, flatter fronts that sucked in every belly bump and lump. Bras were large with full back coverage. They encourage a natural rounded shape. The pointy bullet bra came much later in the '50s. A full slip was usually worn over the underwear to keep the shape smooth.

Stockings are what kept women from feeling naked with those shorter dresses. Nylon was invented prior to the 1940s and quickly replaced silk stockings. Both materials were needed for the war, and women had to go without for a short time. Stockings were a shade darker than natural skin. They usually had subtle brown seams down the back, but seamless stockings were increasingly common by the end of the decade. Stockings only came up to thigh high and were fastened on by garters. Read about the history of 1940s stockings here.

Socks were popular with working women and teenagers. Bobby socks with saddle shoes are an icon of the 1950s but were really started in the 1940s. During the war, women wore patriotic colored socks instead of nylons, even with heels.

Creating 1940s Fashion for YOU

The following infographic should be helpful to in in creating a vintage inspired 1940s style for yourself. There are endless possibilities using new, thrifted or vintage clothes to recreate a style for a 1940s themed event such as a a swing dance, WW2 remembrance day or pinup photoshoot. Be sure to look at these 16 different 1940s "costumes" to help you plan the perfect look

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1940s Fashion: What Did Women Wear in the 1940s?

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What Did Women Wear in the 1940s? In a nutshell, 1940s women's fashion was about creating a certain silhouette: wide padded shoulders, nipped in high waist tops, and A-line skirts that came down to the knee. This was the everyday shape for clothing, from suits to dresses. Even pants had a similar shape.

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404 - Landscape Change Program is unavailable

Thank you for visiting the former Landscape Change Program site. The site is offline and will remain so until we are able to create a redesign and implementation that meets current standards for development.

As we consider how to update the Landscape Change Program web site software, contents, and functionality, we'd love your opinion in the short survey that follows. The site is currently shut down because its dated software was judged to present a risk to UVM's computing network...

The images and data are secure, and we hope to renovate the site in the future and continue our mission of serving the broader community. Please send comments and questions to Paul Bierman.

(updated 01/23/2024)

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Thank you for visiting the former Landscape Change Program site. The site is offline and will remain so until we are able to create a redesign and implementation that meets current standards for development. As we consider how to update the Landscape Change Program web site software, contents, and functionality, we'd love your opinion in the short survey that follows.

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Dolores's interest in fashion history dates from her teenage years when vintage apparel was widely available in thrift stores.

The rationing of materials used in garment production during World War II introduced a new simplicity in women's clothing. Hemlines rose and decorative elements disappeared creating the emergence of a classic style.

The Impact of World War II on Fashion

One might say that women's fashions of the 1940s were dictated by Adolph Hitler. The German invasion of Poland in September 1939 set the tone for everything that happened in the next decade. And as fashion follows social trends and the events of the world economy, World War II necessitated changes in clothing styles and fashion design.

Pearl Harbor was bombed on December 7, 1941 by which time Germany had invaded Norway, Denmark, Holland, Belgium, France, Yugoslavia, and Greece. The world was at war and haute couture took a back seat to the privations of global conflict.

It may be hard for young people today to visualize the impact of World War II on the day to day lives of women in America and much of the rest of the world. Without going too much into the suffering wrought by a world at war, suffice it to say that the war effected everything, even for those living in countries where the was not actually fought. The whole world changed and so did ladies' fashions!

Every woman in the USA knew enlisted men. The American military effected clothing styles in the US and many women's garments took on a military look that underscored the significance of the war. Women everywhere had to make do with less.

Utility Dress 1943

The Effect of the War on Women's Fashion

In order to supply the war effort, fabric was rationed. Nylon and wool were both needed by the military and Japanese silk was banned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbor. Rayon, the new synthetic fabric developed in the 1930s became the material most often used for the creation of ladies' clothing during the War.

By June 1941, with Britain under attack by the Nazis, cloth rationing resulted in a coupon system. Adults in Britain received 66 clothing coupons per year, reduced to 36 coupons by 1945. Supplies were limited and prices were high. Many governments placed restrictions on the use of fabrics and other materials used to make clothing as they were needed by the military.

While London was bombed, people also feared a gas attack as the Germans had used gas against the Allies in World War I. London's Harvey Nichols fashionable store offered gas protection suits of pure oiled silk in a variety of colors. Many women owned Utility Jumpsuits which one could put on quickly when the sirens blew. The jumpsuit, a new innovation, was warm and comfortable and featured pockets for papers and valuables.

Paris Lost It's Influence Over Fashion

Paris lost its leadership role in the world of fashion. Couture houses that were still open drew disapproval from people in the Allied countries who resented the fact that some of the top designers appeared to work in cooperation with occupational forces. And when the rest of the world was scrimping, Paris offered superfluous use of fabrics, including cuffs, dolmen sleeves, nonfunctional buttons, draped fabric, and pocket flaps.

Coco Chanel, the famous fashion designer, closed down her fashion studio during the war years but was sharply criticized for her relationship with a high ranking Nazi official. Chanel also supported the detested Vichy regime and called the French Resistance criminals.

Paris did, however, come up with one interesting mode of showing their clothing: Le Theatre de la Mode, or the Theater of Fashion which compromised 200 two foot tall dolls dressed in Parisian designed clothing.

New York Emerged as a Fashion Leader

What with the hardships of war and general disapproval of Paris, the fashion industry moved to New York with the American look.

Claire McCardell, for example, made use of fabrics that were not in demand by the military. Materials like cotton denim, jersey, striped mattress ticking, gingham, and calico were functional and comfortable and shown for every day wear.

"War wise" dressing became the fashion trend with both drab and patriotic colors like air force blue, cadet blue, flag red, black, browns, greens, tan, and gray flannel.

As wool was used for soldiers' blankets, fabric designers came up with wool blends made of recycled wool and rayon.

Rayon was the fabric of choice. It was versatile; did not shrink or crease, and could be produced in either light or heavy weights.

Hemlines Went Up

Both Britain and the United States put official restrictions on the use of the materials used in the production of garments. The L-85 Order specified the amount of fabric that could be used to create a garment. Hems rose with fabric restrictions. The order also restricted the number of pleats and trimmings as well as jacket and trouser lengths. The metal used for zippers was needed by the military and buttons were limited - useful only, not for ornamentation.

Women brought up during the austerity of the Great depression made do by recycling, making coats and jackets out of old blankets. Winter wear moved away from the use of wool and incorporated velveteen and corduroy for cold weather suits and dresses.

Less fabric meant lean styles, with narrow hip lines and a trim over all appearance. Short and boxy was the fashion style of the day, out of necessity.

Oddly enough, sequins, unnecessary for the war effort, popped up n sweaters to add a note of glitz. And although Hollywood still depicted glamorous stars, the female stars portrayed a new kind of elegance. In the 1945 movie Mildred Pierce, Joan Crawford appears as a struggling single mother who dresses for success in attractive yet rather severe styles. The beautiful Lauren Bacall, in The Big Sleep (1946) appears sexy and glamorous in slacks and many fashion designs of the day.

Shorter skirts placed an emphasis on women's legs. Legs were 'in,' and the famous pin-up of Betty Grable looking over her shoulder in a swim suit is a great example of the importance of legs.

Simple Design of 1940s

Other Fashion Aspects of the 1940s

Hair was worn long and curled at the ends for a soft, feminine look. Beauty salons can be expensive and women saved money by having their hair cut less often. As so many women enlisted in the military or took factory jobs, it was easy to tie long hair back for safety. Then, the long hair could be worn down for casual or dress occasions.Women often knit or crocheted snoods which were an attractive combination of a hair net and a veil.

Girdles were out as the rubber was needed for the war effort. Skirts and dresses were often fitted with adjustable waistlines. But it wasn't hard to be thin when food was rationed.

The fabric used in the manufacturer of swim suits was also reduced causing the disappearance of the little skirt flap so popular on one piece suits. Fabric reduction was responsible for bare midriffs and the introduction of the 2 piece swim suit. The bikini made its debut in 1946.

Shoe heels were lower and shoe designers thought to add interest with the introduction of the wedge shoe. Many women wore flat heeled shoes for safety and comfort in the workplace. T-straps and open toed shoes looked lovely and saved on shoe leather.

Pants became a staple of women who worked in factories and soon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear and for work at home in the garden. The actress Katherine Hepburn helped make trousers a popular garment for women as she appeared in several movies wearing elegant, wide legged trousers.

Stockings formerly made of silk were made out of nylon but when the military began to use nylon, many women used tan make up on their legs and drew a line up the back to simulate seams. Bobby socks became popular among the younger set.

Shoulder pads became popular to highlight the masculine, military look. They also added an interest to the shape of the slim silhouette.

Corsages made of fresh flowers like orchids and gardinias were worn to snazz up a plain black dress. Many women also owned corsages made of artificial flowers or gathered netting.

After the War

The end of World War II did not immediately change the fashion industry. Clothing rations and fabric restrictions endured some time after as the economy changed slowly from a war economy toward peace.

A new world consciousness emerged as Americans became aware of other places. Tropical prints became popular and featured exotic florals such as palm fronds and hibiscus blooms.

The colors and styles of Mexico and Latin America brought new colors like terra-cotta and turquoise to women who craved brightness and fun. Peasant blouses and skirts offered a soft, cool femininity for warm weather inspired by the popular artist Frida Kahlo.

The New Look

In February of 1947, Christian Dior introduced his New Look, a style that shocked and outrages some and thrilled others.

Hemlines were long in skirts and dresses with tons of fabric. Wide hats and tight nipped in waistlines gave women an almost antebellum look. The new female silhouette gave women an hour glass figure and a new, feminine extravagance so long denied.

The copious amounts of fabric used for skirts was viewed by many women as an insult to those still suffering the restrictions and effects of the war. Few women could afford the glamorous New Look when they could barely afford to put food on the table. Some saw Doir's New Look as a means to increase the profits of the textile manufacturers who backed the famous clothing designer.

Yet Dior's new silhouette was not without some approval. Sick of the privations and restrictions of war, many women found the flowing, feminine style to be very appealing and the New Look eventually won out, to influence women's fashion well into the next decade.

Books consulted:

Encylopedia of Clothing and Fashion; edited by Valerie Steele; Scribner Library

Series: Fashions of a Decade, the 1940s by Patricia Baker (see below)

Costume and Styles: The Evolution of Fashion From Early Egypt to the Present by Henny Harald Hansen; E. P. Dutton & Co.

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Fashion History - Women's Clothing in the 1940s

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Dolores's interest in fashion history dates from her teenage years when vintage apparel was widely available in thrift stores. The rationing of materials used in garment production during World War II introduced a new simplicity in women's clothing. Hemlines rose and decorative elements disappeared creating the emergence of a classic style.

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Despite air raids and austerity, style was not in short supply in World War Two. An exhibition at the Imperial War Museum looks at how conflict abroad meant fashion at home had to change.

Clothing coupons limited what most people could buy and government rules directly impacted on the styles available. But amid the cutbacks, there was still colour.

Click to see what coupons would buy - and then scroll to find out how creativity flourished further.

Video narration by the IWM's Laura Clouting, a curator at the Fashion on the Ration exhibition.

The Make-do and Mend credo - given official support by the Board of Trade in 1942 - tried to make people think differently about where they got clothes from.

With coupons limiting what could be bought in the shops, old garments at the back of wardrobes were adapted and given new life.

This woman's matching jacket and skirt may originally have started life as a man's pin stripe suit.

This child's cloak looks a a bit more rough and ready - it is made from an old blanket.

With the threat of night air raids across much of the UK, a new fashion item emerged.

This "siren suit" below is, arguably, an early form of onesie. Very fashionable in the war years, they were long sleeved trouser suits which could easily be pulled on in the rush to get to an air raid shelter.

Many people made their own - while more tailored styles were available in shops with coupons.

And to accompany the siren suit, women could carry their gas masks with them in the bottom of specially-designed handbags.

Publicity posters and pamphlets for the make-do and mend scheme featured a cartoon character called Mrs Sew and Sew.

Dress-making classes were set up - this image is from London in 1943.

Because jewellery was also on the ration, innovative ways were found to create bespoke items.

This plastic bracelet was reputedly made from the windscreen of a crashed German aircraft.

The design is embellished with a snake's head where the plastic was fused together.

This American-made compact case has a distinctive wartime twist.

Products like these made popular gifts for servicewomen, and the wives and girlfriends of servicemen.

Night-time blackout restrictions also led to innovative new products to help people be seen in the dark.

Selfridges in London pioneered a range of luminous accessories, as the photo below from 1940 shows.

Products like fake flowers...

And far from urging people to don dark coloured clothes in the blackout, the government actively encouraged the wearing of white clothes.

It wanted to halt a rise in the number of car accidents involving pedestrians.

You could also show your support for Allied forces by the way you dressed - with patriotic patterns and prints.

This underwear set was made by a dressmaker for Patricia Mountbatten - the elder daughter of Admiral Lord Louis Mountbatten.

It was made using a silk map given to her by a boyfriend in the RAF.

Textile and fashion company Jacqmar created scarves featuring popular wartime motifs and patriotic messages.

Produced in silk, rayon or wool, they were sold both at home and abroad.

They were not cheap though - and, when bought in Britain, each one also required two clothing coupons.

Finally, this design by Filmyra Fabrics celebrates Winston Churchill's leadership as prime minister.

It includes extracts from some of his most famous and inspirational speeches.

Fashion on the Ration is at the Imperial War Museum, London, until 31 August 2015.

Photo film music courtesy EMI Production Music.

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How did WW2 change the way people dressed?

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Despite air raids and austerity, style was not in short supply in World War Two. An exhibition at the Imperial War Museum looks at how conflict abroad meant fashion at home had to change. Clothing coupons limited what most people could buy and government rules directly impacted on the styles available.

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Clothes were rationed in Britain from 1 June 1941. This limited the amount of new garments people could buy until 1949, four years after the war's end.

Despite the limitations imposed by rationing, clothing retailers sought to retain and even expand their customer base during the Second World War. Britain's high street adapted in response to wartime conditions, and this was reflected in their retail ranges. The government intervened in the mass manufacture of high street fashions with the arrival of the Utility clothing scheme in 1942.

Shoppers carefully spent their precious clothing coupons and money on new clothes to make sure their purchases would be suitable across spring, summer and autumn and winter. Despite the restrictions, the war and civilian austerity did not put an end to creative design, commercial opportunism or fashionable trends on the British home front.

War Didn't Mean the End of Fashion

When Britain went to war in 1939 it seemingly spelt an end for fashion. The people of Britain now had more pressing concerns, such as widely expected air raids and possible German invasion. In many ways war did disrupt and dislocate fashion in Britain. Resources and raw materials for civilian clothing were limited. Prices rose and fashion staples such as silk were no longer available. Purchase tax and clothes rationing were introduced. But fashion survived and even flourished in wartime, often in unexpected ways.

Functional Fashions for Wartime Life

For men and women not in uniform, the war changed how they dressed both at work and at home. It became important for civilian clothes to be practical as well as stylish. Clothing and accessories manufacturers were quick to see commercial potential in some of the war's greatest dangers. By the outbreak of war in September 1939, over 40 million respirators had been distributed in Britain as a result of the potential threat of gas warfare. Although not compulsory, people were advised to carry their gas masks with them at all times. Usually they were issued in a cardboard box with a string threaded through so it could be carried over the shoulder. Retailers were quick to spot a gap in the market for a more attractive solution. The handbag seen here, like many others specially produced, has a compartment for a gas mask.

Blackout Restrictions Sparked a Bright Trend

A 'blackout' was enforced in Britain before the war had even begun on 1 September 1939 to make it harder for much-feared German bombers to find their targets. Street lighting and illuminated signs were extinguished and all vehicles had to put caps over their lights to dim them. The blackout caused a rise in collisions. A government campaign urged people to wear white clothes to make them more visible to fellow pedestrians and drivers. The blackout and its dangers provided an unexpected commercial opportunity. A range of luminous accessories, from pin-on flowers to handbags, were produced that would reflect light and help make their wearers more visible. These also included the buttons seen here in normal conditions and when aglow in the dark.

Wartime 'Onesies' for the Air Raid Shelter

The 'siren suit' was an all-in-one garment which could be pulled on quickly over night clothes if the wearer had to escape to an outdoor air raid shelter. Some suits had a stylish twist - this woman's siren suit has puffed shoulders, bell-bottom cuffs to the legs and a fitted hood. It also has a detachable belt and piping decoration. A more practical drop down panel is attached to the rear so the wearer could visit the lavatory without removing the whole garment. Siren suits were a popular wartime trend with many retailers advertising their ranges. Prime Minister Winston Churchill was often photographed in his own tailor-made siren suits.

Utility Fashions Hit the High Street

In 1942, the first 'Utility' clothes went on sale on the British high street as part of a government scheme. These clothes were made from a limited range of quality controlled fabrics. The Utility scheme developed out of a need to make production of civilian clothing in British factories more efficient and to provide price-regulated better quality clothing. Until Utility clothing was introduced, the less well-off had to use the same number of coupons for cheaper garments that might wear out in half the time. Utility fabrics - and clothes made from these materials - gave the public a guarantee of quality and value for their money and coupons.

In autumn 1941 it became compulsory for all Utility cloths and garments to be marked 'CC41'. The distinctive logo - often likened to two cheeses - stood for 'Civilian Clothing 1941' and was designed by Reginald Shipp. It is seen here printed onto a pair of men's socks

Strict Rules for Fashion - the Austerity Restrictions

Utility clothing came in a limited range of garments, styles and fabrics. In 1942 and 1943, the Board of Trade introduced the Making-up of Civilian Clothing (Restrictions) Orders to make further savings of labour and materials and minimise manufacturing costs. These orders, often known as the 'austerity regulations', applied to the production of both Utility and non-Utility clothing.

Some of the most unpopular austerity regulations were those that applied to men's clothing. Single-breasted suits replaced double-breasted. Lapels had to be within a certain size. The number of pockets was restricted and trouser turn-ups were abolished. The ban on turn-ups was particularly unpopular, and many men circumvented this regulation by buying trousers that were too long and having them altered at home. The length of men's shirts was restricted and double cuffs were banned.

It is estimated that these measures saved about 4 million square yards (approximately 5 million square metres) of cotton per year. Braces would have been a vital element of a man's outfit as both zip fasteners and elastic waistbands were banned under the austerity regulations. Elastic was in very short supply throughout the war, and women's knickers were one of only a small number of garments where the use of elastic was permitted.

Designer Fashion in Wartime

There were worries that Utility clothing meant 'standard' clothing, with people dressed too similarly. The government was at pains to reassure the public that 'the Board of Trade have no wish to adopt the role of fashion dictator'. It brought in leading fashion designers to design a prototype range of Utility clothing which were attractive, stylish and very varied.

The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (IncSoc) was founded in 1942 to represent the collective interests of the fashion industry in Britain, promote exports and develop standards of design. There were originally eight members: Peter Russell, Norman Hartnell (pictured here), Bianca Mosca, Digby Morton, Victor Stiebel, Elspeth Champcommunal and Hardy Amies. Edward Molyneux and Charles Creed joined soon after. They were commissioned by the Board of Trade to produce designs for stylish yet economical outfits that could be produced under the Utility scheme. As well as using Utility materials, the designers also had to work within the austerity regulations.

Utility was a Surprise Hit

This is an example of Utility design at its best, featuring simple lines and minimal trimmings. It is a style that could easily be worn today without looking dated. Utility clothing covered a range of dresses, coats, jackets, trousers, shirts, socks, gloves and shoes. Utility ranges were produced for men, women and children. To encourage long production runs of Utility clothing, only 15 styles were permitted for infants' and girls' dresses.

Although there was a maximum price set for Utility garments, there was a spectrum of pricing and cheaper items were also available. Once launched, the clothes received many favourable reports, despite the initial hesitation. Celebrity endorsement was sought, and a March 1942 edition of Picture Post featured the actress Deborah Kerr modelling Utility clothes.

The End of War and Peacetime Style

By 1945 British people had grown tired of rationing, restrictions, and calls to 'Make Do and Mend'. Advertisements promised new styles but often shops lacked many new offerings. Production of clothes and other civilian goods did increase after the war, but most of what was made was exported. Clothes rationing - albeit in a reduced form - continued until 1949.

The best-dressed were those leaving the military services. Demobilised men were issued with a full set of clothes, known as the 'demob suit'. Reactions varied - although there was some degree of choice, and quality could be very good, many simply felt that they had swapped one uniform for another. Women leaving the military services were given an allocation of coupons rather than a new outfit. The coupons gave women more freedom to choose what clothes they wanted, but they were still limited by what was available in the shops.

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How Clothes Rationing Affected Fashion In The Second World War

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Clothes were rationed in Britain from 1 June 1941. This limited the amount of new garments people could buy until 1949, four years after the war's end.Despite the limitations imposed by rationing, clothing retailers sought to retain and even expand their customer base during the Second World War.