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- Plus One on that "its funny"

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- as the artist I have the right to ask the viewer to do the work to engage with the work
- but also the viewer just won't do that for something too tedious
- however with a 2 min video and the payoff of comedy via the chairs, that's a fair trade

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-Don't do that

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- the jilted bride gives this connection
"Miss Havisham is a character in the Charles Dickens novel Great Expectations. She is a wealthy spinster, once jilted at the altar, who insists on wearing her wedding dress for the rest of her life." - Wikipedia
"Miss Havisham is an example of single-minded vengeance pursued destructively: both Miss Havisham and the people in her life suffer greatly because of her quest for revenge." - Sparknotes

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- the choice of wedding and a melting bride comes with the connotation of the "jilted bride" left at the altar
- this majorly hurts the message

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- showed personality
- a bit of comedy
- good choice

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Not actually part of crit

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- want to avoid the "jilted bride" trope
- if you do the series approach, this will help with that!
- Romeo and Juliet "oh Romeo"
- "The Kiss" scene

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- Check out [NAME]
- S.C.U.M Manifesto
- look at other artists that work with "the tyrancy of the couple" and the "tyrancy of romanticism"

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- Play with that some more, it could do with some work /nm

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- A diptych runs the risk of being read as "the couple"
- instead maybe make more pieces with different "romantic" scenes
- or make it a triptych

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- Edit the duration some more
- Make the ice portion longer, reflect the reality of ice's slow change to water in the animation

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- Suggestion to separate the ice bride and the aromantic growth as two separate pieces

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- The symbol of a bride is deeply tied to romance
- The same as the iconography associated with marriage and the wedding
- Together this gives a very romantic feeling for the first half of the video

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https://otter.ai/u/zJkh3Sun02mNJbGKhkAkrCe7cVU?utm_source=copy_url

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Ella Oren-Dahan

TITLE: Vetoed Marriage Date

MEDIUM: Video

DESCRIPTION: The aromantic community is rarely mentioned, let alone represented, in discussions about coming to age and growing into happy fulfilled adults. Rather, it is expected for children to have crushes, teens to fall in love, and adults to get married. Utilizing amorphic and malleable materials, this work depicts an aromatic interaction with the concept of marriage.

Aromanticism (represented by the color green) is a romantic orientation describing individuals who (1) do not experience romantic attraction, (2) experience little-to-no romantic attraction, or (3) experience conditional romantic attraction.

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Another freeze, this one had arms but no head...

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Two-part mold to three-part mold

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She's armless!

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Ice bride holding green wax bouquet (NO baby dragon) walks the aisle. the ice melts, the bouquet drops and then grows into a solid version of the figure. this figure (not a bride) packs up the chairs (aka calling off the wedding)

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Ice bride (with purple wax baby dragon within the ice holding green wax bouquet) walks the aisle. the ice melts, then baby grows into a purple dragon (symbol of asexuality) and the green wax grows into a wax (more solid) figure of the bride but now no longer with the bouquet (aka not a bride anymore)

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Ice bride (with baby dragon within the ice) walks the aisle. the ice melts, then baby grows into a purple dragon (symbol of asexuality)

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Ice bride to Dragon makes no sense, the issue with marriage is pushing this life expectation on aros, aces can be aromantic and want marriage. this shouldn't involve the ace dragon in the way i've done

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Vetoed Marriage Date

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Art Work Name: Aromantic Stability??? / When are you getting married? Don't you want to be happy?

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Art Work Name: Aromantic Stability??? / When are you getting married? Don't you want to be happy?

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- Materiality is Key: Ice to Wax
- Theme: Marriage, Asexuality
> Ice Bride melts away to reveal Ace Dragon
- Format: Interactive Video --> Stop Motion?

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Thesis 1: Civic Contract
- Social commentary
- Materiality is Key: Ice
- Theme: Marriage, Aromanticism
- Format: Video

Favorite Work: Protector of Identity
- Social commentary
- Materiality is Key: Wax
- Theme: Asexuality
- Format: Interactive Sculpture

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Mold was closed
Filled with water
Placed in freezer

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Real audience: the class and invited judges

Target audience: I think this is actually for the aro community more than the allo community, but the allos are also welcome to watch and come to their own conclusion. Im happy if the allos just think about marriage for a sec. they don't need to "get it" from just this art

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Personal Romantic Orientation

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The set itself
- a man made thing in a clearly manufactured work

In dialogue with previous video

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Ice / Water
(mold to make figure:
- container to make mold
- smooth on
- clay
- mold release
- mixing container
- mixing device)

Wax
- microcrystalline wax
- crayola crayons (for color)

Set
- cardstock / paper (background)
- fake grass
- wire
- hot glue
- fake flowers
- carbon thingys (the path)
- acrylic paint

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Societal expectations of marriage

Aromantic Spectrum Awareness

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Social Commentary?

Education
- b/c school project

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Stop Motion Animation
- Stop Motion Studio
- Phone

Ice Sculpting

Wax Sculpting

Mold Making
- two part rubber mold

Mixed Media / 3D
- the set

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Presentation / Documentation:
- Stop Motion Animation
- Video
- project on wall / TV / class pc

Set:
- bedroom table

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- Two part mold
- to make the figure in ice (w/out bouquet)

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- Smaller
- smooth
- arm placement

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Add Chairs / White

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Yep, this is the wax gary talked about

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Brown sculpting wax is the basic all-purpose type favored by many sculptors. It is a "microcrystaline" wax, which means it will bend a lot more readily than paraffin, the white wax used for making candles. Unlike paraffin, it also burns out without leaving an ash residue. Called "Victory Brown", the type we get here is suitable for hand-modeling if you get it slightly warm, or for casting into molds. If you need a more malleable wax, there is also a "Victory Amber" which is similar but softer. If you are working in an unheated studio in the winter, it might be preferable, but complicated pieces can collapse in the summer if it gets too hot. For even greater malleability, you might try the type of soft wax used to coat cheese. There are harder waxes, such as Sierra Red, which are suitable for casting into molds, and will retain their shape better than the softer ones. Another is a pink wax sold in stick form for use as sprues. These can also be alloyed with the softer waxes to produce wax of an intermediate hardness.

There are also waxes formulated for carving rather than casting or modeling with the fingers. These often have a little polyethylene added to make them less sticky; but they won't bend, and are difficult to weld. "Machineable" waxes are similar, but are more forgiving of welds, and permit remelting.

To use it directly, it's best to make yourself a slab mold, either with rubber or plaster. This can be a simple one-piece mold of any flat smooth object, such as a plastic cutting board. Soak any plaster molds thoroughly in water before pouring melted wax into them; this will keep the wax from soaking in and sticking. Thinner sheets of wax may be obtained by tilting the mold; thicker ones by filling the mold and letting it set..You can break up the ten-pound block of wax by hitting it sharply with a hammer (if it isn't too warm out). Make sure you're doing this in a clean place; you don't want to get debris in your wax if you can help it.

Melt the wax chunks in an electric frying kettle, making sure you keep the temperature under about 225 degrees Farenheit (it will melt considerably lower). It is best to get a fryer with an infinite range control, instead of low, medium, and high settings; and check it with a candy/frying thermometer to make sure it doesn't get too hot. The wax can be dipped out of the fryer kettle with smaller pouring containers-I make my own by adding handles to steel cans. Never melt wax directly over an open flame-if that's all you've got, use a double boiler. If it starts smoking this is not only bad for you, but the next thing you know you have a tower of flame where your wax used to be (and even if you don't burn down your place, the carbon ruins the wax.). This is a messy process, so think twice before doing this in your kitchen. Spilled wax can make a big mess very quickly, and it is very difficult to clean up wax completely when it has spilled. Wear protective gear when pouring the wax, especially some rubber gloves and a face shield-this stuff can give you some nasty burns, just like deep fat frying. I like to put some beeswax into the mix; about 25% by volume. This makes it somewhat more malleable and gives it a nice smell. While sculptors have used beeswax its pure form for millennea, it works better as a component in an alloy.

Once you have cast sheets of wax 1/8-1/4 inch thick, you can use it more or less like clay, warming it in your hands or using a hair-dryer to warm larger pieces. Once it cools, it can be worked with tools, or you can use an electrically heated tool similar to a soldering iron (but not as hot) to weld it to itself. If you don't have one of these, use an alcohol lamp to heat a steel tool, which will melt a little wax before it cools and must be reheated. Loop tools and steel "ribs" such as are used for sculpting clay may be used, as may all sorts of improvised tools. You can also buy sets of toothed scrapers which are designed for smoothing out the contours of plaster models. These leave a series of fine raised lines on the surface which graphically show any depressions that otherwise might escape the eye. These lines may be removed and the surface further smoothed by rubbing with a Scotchbrite abrasive non-woven pad dampened with some mineral spirits or kerosene. For a finer finish, use a nylon stocking .

If you keep the thickness under 3/8 inch or so and keep it even throughout, your model can be cast in bronze using the lost-wax method. However, it is usually better to make a mold and cast a new wax for lost-wax casting. This will ensure an even thickness in the casting, and is insurance against disaster, as well as affording the possibility of producing an edition rather than just one unique piece. Lost wax casting does require that a wax pattern must be sacrificed for each bronze piece that results; but it can either be your original or a copy that is lost.

If you are using wax to make a model which will be molded, you can use a wire armature, or a substructure made of any firm material, since the wax will stick to almost anything when it's hot, and will not shrink. Like an oil painting, it is reworkable for an extended period, and may be added to or subtracted from at any time. You can also incorporate parts made of different materials and found objects, or weld together a series of wax castings, using a heated tool. (Much of my own sculpture is mastered this way). Once a wax cast is made from your model, it can still be embellished with combustible materials such as balsa wood, cloth, and styrene plastic; these will usually burn out cleanly and be reproduced faithfully in the bronze.

by Andrew Werby

Thanks to Frank Egan and Dan Spector for their helpful suggestions on this FAQ.

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Brown sculpting wax is the basic all-purpose type favored by many sculptors. It is a "microcrystaline" wax, which means it will bend a lot more readily than paraffin, the white wax used for making candles. Unlike paraffin, it also burns out without leaving an ash residue.

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We've been collecting links to helpful resources for artists for a long time. You'll be able to locate many items that are hard to find, together with a vast array of educational resources. (Of course, we are not responsible for the business practices of people that we recommend. Once you leave our site, you're on your own.)

Education

Art City Studios Supplies, tools, and now classes in Southern California. This Southern California site sells sculpture and stone furniture as well as various carvable stones and supplies for stonecarving.

Learning Stone Portland, United Kingdom, Sculpture Trust Workshops

Temple University CAD CAM Program The CAD CAM program at Temple University, under Stanley Lechtzin, sounds fascinating.

The Crucible A facility equipped for metal-casting, welding, forging, and other hot metal arts in Berkeley, California, offering an interesting mix of classes. An educational collaboration of arts, industry, and community.

Bases and Pedestals

Knifemaking

Fiber

Lacis Online Catalog From Berkeley, California, everything for needleworkers, milleners, and other artists who work with fabric or thread. An online catalog, instructional books, and links to the needleworld online.

Paula Burch's Hand Dyeing on Fabric A page dedicated to the art of coloring material, including batik, tie-dye, hand-painting and other processes.

The Caning Shop A source for caning and basketry supplies.

Victorian Hairwork Hair art enthusiasts want to buy your hair! Or buy some yourself, if you want...

Mosiac

Mendel's Mosaics A source of ceramic and glass tile for use in mosaic work, as well as craft supplies in general.

Mosaic ColorKey The primary US importer of Italian glass mosaic tile provides a color chart online.

Tabularasa Mosaic and sculpture supplies

The Joy of Shards The Indirect Method of Mosaic an unintimidating introduction to mosaic technique.

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Resources Links Page " Juxtamorph " United Artworks

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We've been collecting links to helpful resources for artists for a long time. You'll be able to locate many items that are hard to find, together with a vast array of educational resources. (Of course, we are not responsible for the business practices of people that we recommend.