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By T. H. Jeong, Raymond Ro, Riley Aumiller (Lake Forest College) and Misashi Iwasaki (Kyoto Institute of Technology) with contributions from Jeff Blythe (University of Cambridge), and edited by Alec Jeong. © 1996-2023 Integraf

1. Introduction

In this tutorial, we'll attempt to follow Einstein's dictum so you can make holograms easily.

"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein

The procedures we propose herein are as simple as it is physically possible. In the process, we make holography not only as simple as possible, but safer, less expensive, and more accessible to young people.

Most of the essential items described in this article can be found in our HOLOKIT TM hologram kits or are available separately. The kits let you make many kinds of holograms, including the reflection hologram (viewable with whitelight) and transmission hologram (viewable and projectable with laser light) described in this tutorial.

2. Overview on How to Make a Hologram

Before diving into the details, here's a super duper quick overview on how a hologram is made. Making a hologram involves recording the interference pattern that occurs when light coming from a stabilized laser meets its own light bouncing back from the object it's illuminating. The key is to set up the laser, the object, and the recording film or plate in a way that captures the interference pattern. Once that's done, we simply need to expose the object and film plate with the laser light and then develop the exposed film plate. Once you get the hang of it, the whole process can be completed in 3 minutes.

Our holograms kits include everything you need to make holograms, including step-by-step instructions and tips.

Since we need to capture microscopic interence pattern exactly as it is at one moment in time, you can imagine how movement of the object, the film plate, or laser can mess things up. In fact, movement of any element by more than 1 millionth of a meter is enough to ruin your hologram. For that reason, we have to make sure our set up is super stable, i.e. no movement, no vibrations, no noise, no air currents, etc.

3. Holography Supplies

You will need the diode laser discussed below, a supply of PFG-03M 2.5 x 2.5 inch film plates (63mm x 63mm), and a JD-4 processing kit (or alternatively, PFG-01 plates with JD-2). All of these items are included in the HOLOKIT hologram kits or available separately from our catalog.

Though slightly trickier and thus not recommended for first-time holographers, one can also use PFG-01 holographic film sheets sandwiched and clipped between two glass plates instead of using holographic plates. Develop with JD-2. For the instructions below, substitute the properly sandwiched film sheet for the holographic glass plates. See our article on how to use holographic film sheets for important details.

3.1 The Laser

To make holograms, we take off the collimating lens of the laser to shine its pure, naturally spread beam right on to the holographic plate and object.

The figure below shows a Class IIIa diode laser with an output of 3 to 4 mW when operated by 3.0 v dc. If the power is supplied by batteries, its red light of wavelength 650 nm achieves a coherence length exceeding 1 m after a warm-up period of a few minutes. The traditional helium-neon laser, on the other hand, operates on dangerously high voltages, is prone to breakage, has a shorter shelf life, and a coherence length of approximately 30 cm.

Unlike many laser diodes and laser pointers, the laser shown below and in our catalog has a stabilized frequency output (a must for holography), good coherence length (also a must), and a removable collimating lens. With the spring-loaded collimating lens mounted on the laser, the output beam can be adjusted to focus at any arbitrary distance.

To make holograms, we'll actually take off the collimating lens. Without the lens, the direct output from the laser spreads out with a highly eccentric elliptical profile. Since the beam encounters no external optical elements, the light has no mottled patterns caused by interference and diffractions, and appears perfectly clean. In other words, we'll be shining this pure beam right on to the holographic plate and object.

The responsible parent or teacher is advised to remove the lens and the small tension spring before allowing the student to use the laser. This way, the power density received by human eyes will not exceed that received when looking at an ordinary grocery store laser scanner. When the laser is not in use, replace the collimating lens (with or without the tension spring). This helps ensure that you won't lose the lens and, more importantly, will help keep dust out of the laser.

If you are using your own "laser pointer" for making holograms, know many laser pointers and diodes do not have frequency stabilizing circuits (like the one above), which is required for holography. Moreover, since most laser pointers do not have a removable collimating lens, you must buy a special optical lens to spread the beam. With two lenses (four lens surfaces) through which the laser beam must shine, there may be many objectionable patterns on the resulting beam due to the four lens surfaces and the dirt on them.

3.2 Stable Support for Laser

An excellent support for such a small laser is a wooden clothespin, as shown below. For mechanical stability and maneuverability, the clothespin holding the laser is stuck into a cup of sand, salt, or sugar (not pepper!). On the other hand, for schools with available laboratory hardware, the clothespin can be glued to a rod and mounted on a lab stand with a right-angle clamp.

The wooden clothespin offers another advantage. It being a thermal insulator, the laser will reach thermal, electrical, and frequency stability a few minutes after it is turned on, assuming batteries are used as its power source. An alternative support would be a rubber-tipped thermometer holder.

4.0 Making a Hologram by "Contact Copy" Method

The "white light reflection hologram" is the simplest to make. We advocate the "contact copy" method, whereby you lean the holographic plate (holoplate) directly against the object during exposure. As long as there is no relative movement between the object and the plate, no separate vibration isolation is needed.

4.1 Choose Your Object

The choice and preparation of the object is crucial: (1) it should be made of a solid material such as a quarter or dime (no furry or fabrics); (2) it must appear bright when illuminated with the red laser light; and (3) it must not move or deform.

If it's your first time making a hologram, try to avoid choosing objects that are fabric or fury (e.g. teddy bears) because these objects deform easily. Also avoid large plastic objects as they tend to expand and contract with the slightest change in temperature (even from the heat of your fingers!). For best results, try metal or porcelain objects that can be easily illuminated with laser light and are no larger than the size of the holoplate, such as coins.

If there is any doubt about potential movement, you could glue the object to a stable wood or metal platform where the hologram will be made. Another way to dampen movement or vibration is by placing the object on a computer mousepad, or even better, a tray of sand, salt, sugar (or even kitty litter).

TIP: If your object or holographic film plate moves even 1/1000th of an inch during exposure, your hologram will not likely turn out. So avoid talking, music, noise, walking around, air currents, creaky floors, soft objects, temperature changes to the object . . . . What other things can you think of that might cause tiny movements or vibration?

4.2 Prepare Your Developer Solutions

Prepare the chemical processing solutions and layout the processing trays as directed by the instructions that accompany the JD-4 (or JD-2) kits. Although the chemicals solutions are termed non-volatile, chemicals evaporate over time and may cause nose and throat irritations. Use the chemicals in a ventilated area.

It is not necessary to have a completely dark room. However, the room should be sufficiently dark so that one cannot read in it. Use a standard night-light if necessary so that you can move about safely. Block any direct light from reaching the holography system, i.e. place the nightlight under the table.

5. Make Your Reflection Hologram

Now, it's time to make the holgoram! Carefully follow these steps to align and expose the hologram to the laser:

1. Adjust the laser in its holder so that the beam spreads out horizontally.

2. Place the object at a distance of 35 to 40 cm from the laser.

3. Place a white card behind the object and adjust the laser while looking at the shadow on the card. Adjust the position of the laser until the object is optimally illuminated. Then remove the white card.

4. Place an opaque cardboard near the laser to block the light from reaching the object. This will serve like the shutter of a camera.

5. Remove a holographic plate from its container (in the darkest part of the room), and close the container.

6. Lean the holographic plate on the object, making certain it will not slip or move; the emulsion (sticky side) should touch the object.

7. Allow 10 seconds for the object to settle, and tell everyone in the room to hold still.

8. Now, lift the "shutter" slightly off the table while still blocking the laser light, and wait 2 seconds for the vibration to subside.

9. Then, lift the shutter all the way up to expose the holographic plate and object for 10 seconds (5 seconds minimum, longer is OK up to 40 seconds). Then, block the light again.

10. Finally, process the exposed holographic plate according to instructions that accompany the JD-4 (or JD-2 if you are using PFG-01 plates or film sheets).

11. Optionally, place your holographic plate in a solution of Photoflo for 20 to 30 seconds. Photoflo is a wetting agent that helps holograms turn out cleaner and clearer. It reduces streaks and promotes more uniform and quicker drying. While PhotoFlo is not required to make a hologram, it does help them look better.

6. Viewing Your Hologram

After the hologram is thoroughly dried, it can be viewed with a point source of incandescent light such as that from a projector, flashlight, or the sun. You cannot use diffused light sources such as frosted bulbs and florescent lamps. For best results, spray paint the emulsion (sticky) side with a diffuse black paint. This protects the emulsion and provides a dark background to enhance the visibility of the image.

Now, read on to see how to make a panoramic transmission hologram.

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INTEGRAF | How to Make Holograms (step-by-step tutorial)

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A tutorial on how to make a hologram at home or at school in the simplest and cheapest way. Making a 3D hologram is easier than you think.

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Download Article

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If you want to make a homemade 3D hologram, it's easier than you think. Every year, thousands of hobbyists, students, and teachers make holograms at home, work, or school. To make a hologram, you'll need some basic holography supplies and household items, a quiet and dark room, and about 30 minutes to process the image. With time and a steady hand, you'll be able to create your own professional hologram!

Add New Question

How does a hologram work?

A hologram captures a representation of the light passing through the imaging plate on its way to the viewer. The hologram captures the light before it is focused, and thus contains information about the light from many points of view. The way this information is captured involves light wave interference patterns using lasers. The light wave interference pattern is recorded by the silver halide crystals.

How do I make a 4D hologram?

You can't. D refers to dimension and we live in a 3-dimensional universe so a fourth dimensional hologram is impossible.

Can you use a picture for a hologram?

Yes, as long as you do everything else right. You should try using something else before, that way you can get the hang of it first.

See more answers

The total cost to build a hologram ranges from $100-500 USD. If you want to build a hologram for the lowest cost, contact a professional holographer or holography supply store for advice.

Thanks for submitting a tip for review!

Work with a careful, steady hand while making the hologram. Even small, accidental movements can tamper with your hologram's look.

The chemicals used while processing holograms can be toxic in their undiluted form. If you are a child or teenager, adult supervision is highly recommended to prevent injuries.

Holographic film plates

Red holography laser pointer (preferably adjustable)

Holography processing kit

Bright, hard object

Safety goggles

Thick rubber gloves

Large hardcover book

Metal tongs

6 1 inch (2.5 cm) bottles of distilled water

Nightlight (optional)

Metal or wooden platform (optional)

Glue (optional)

Respirator or dust mask (optional)

This article was co-authored by wikiHow Staff. Our trained team of editors and researchers validate articles for accuracy and comprehensiveness. wikiHow's Content Management Team carefully monitors the work from our editorial staff to ensure that each article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. This article has been viewed 859,860 times.

To make a hologram, put your object on a table and position a red holographic laser 12 in (30 cm) away, making sure the object is fully illuminated. Next, turn off the lights and block the laser light from reaching the object with a book. Then, lean a holographic film plate against the object and wait 10-20 seconds before lifting the book. Expose the plate and object to the laser light for 10 seconds, then process the plate according to the kit's instructions and let it air dry. To learn more about how processing works, read on!

Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 859,860 times.

"I was able to build my own hologram with the inscription of my name. Thanks!"

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How to Make a Hologram (with Pictures) - wikiHow

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If you want to make a homemade 3D hologram, it's easier than you think. Every year, thousands of hobbyists, students, and teachers make holograms at home, work, or school. To make a hologram, you'll need some basic holography supplies and...

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Steps to create a hologram with your phone 📲 - Neweb Labs

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It is possible to create a hologram with your cell phone. Follow the different steps here.

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Future forms - Grammar chart

Predictions

We use will to talk about something we think that will happen:

We use be going to to talk about something that is very near to happen or that we see is going to happen (there is present evidence)

Decisions

We use will for decisions that we take at the moment of speaking ( instant decisions).

We use be going to for decisions that we have already taken at the moment of speaking ( intentions or plans).

Arrangements

We often use the present continuous to talk about future events that have already been planned or decided. When we use the present continuous for arrangements, we must always include when ( at 7, this evening, next month, etc.) in the sentence.

We can also use be going to for future arrangements.

Use the present simple to talk about the future in sentences with when, as soon as, until, before and after.

I'll retire when I'll be 70.

I'll retire when I'm 70.

I won't call you until I will arrive.

I won't call you until I arrive .

Other uses of will

Promises and refusals

Future facts

Offers

We use I will in statements or shall I in questions.

Suggestions

We use shall we...?

Requests

When we ask someone to do something for us.

May or might as a future form

We use may or might for possible actions in the future (when 'we are not sure'). Compare:

We use may or might for things that will possibly happen in the future, but we are not too sure. It's like a prediction about something that we think perhaps will happen.

We use may or might not for actions or things that will possibly not happen.

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Future forms - will, be going to, present continuous - Test-English

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Future forms - will, be going to, present continuous, etc. B1. Learn how to express predictions, offers, promises, plans, arrangements, etc.

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Look at these examples to see how will, going to and the present continuous are used.

Oh great! That meeting after work's been cancelled. I'll go to that yoga class instead.
I'm going to try to visit my relatives in Australia this year.
The restaurant is reserved for 8. We're having a drink at Beale's first.

Try this exercise to test your grammar.

Grammar explanation

We use different verb forms to talk about our plans for the future, depending on what kind of plan it is: a spontaneous plan, a pre-decided plan or an arrangement.

We use will to talk about spontaneous plans decided at the moment of speaking.

Oops, I forgot to phone Mum! I'll do it after dinner.
I can't decide what to wear tonight. I know! I'll wear my green shirt.
There's no milk. I'll buy some when I go to the shops.

We use going to to talk about plans decided before the moment of speaking.

I'm going to phone Mum after dinner. I told her I'd call at 8 o'clock.
I'm going to wear my black dress tonight.
I'm going to go to the supermarket after work. What do we need?

Present continuous

We usually use the present continuous when the plan is an arrangement - already confirmed with at least one other person and we know the time and place.

I'm meeting Jane at 8 o'clock on Saturday.
We're having a party next Saturday. Would you like to come?

We often use the present continuous to ask about people's future plans.

Are you doing anything interesting this weekend?

Do this exercise to test your grammar again.

Language level

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Future forms: 'will', 'be going to' and present continuous

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Do you know how to talk about future plans using will, going to and the present continuous? Test what you know with interactive exercises and read the explanation to help you.

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Exercise 1

Complete the sentences with the future simple, going to or the present continuous. Use the most appropriate form and the verbs in brackets.

Will, going to, present continuous for future exercises with answers, PDF worksheets and grammar rules with examples.

We can use future simple (will), going to and the present continuous to express future.

The future simple (will) is used to express:
- General intentions. I will buy a house if I have enough money.
- Predictions or opinions. I don't think Tom Lee will be a champion this year.
- Decisions made at the moment of speaking. Are you thirsty? I will get you a drink.

Going to is used to express:
- Decisions or intentions made before the moment of speaking. I am going to study in Germany.
- Our opinion that something is certain to happen. Slow down or you are going to crash.

The present continuous is used to express:
- Our personal future arrangements. We are leaving on Saturday morning.

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Future simple, going to, present continuous - exercise 1

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Exercises with answers, PDF worksheets and grammar rules with examples. Future simple (will), going to and present continuous tense.

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Task No. 4443

Use the verbs in brackets in the correct future tenses - will-future, going to-future, Simple Present or Present Progressive.

Show example

Example:

The weather nice on Sunday. (to be)

Answer:

The weather will be nice on Sunday.

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Future tenses in English, Grammar Exercises Online for free

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Utopia & Dystopia | ESL Lesson Plan | Your English Pal

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Free ESL lesson plan on utopia and dystopia for adults and young adults at an intermediate (B1/B2) to advanced (C1/C2) level.

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Wordwall - Create better lessons quicker

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allegory; allegorical - a story, painting, etc. in which the events and characters represent ideas or teach a moral lesson; a fictional text which has both a literal and figurative meaning, anti-utopia/ dystopia; dystopian - an imaginary place or society characterized by misery and oppression, apocalyptic literature - literature which deals with the end of the world, authoritarian state - a state in which people are forced to obey authority and rules, even these are wrong and unfair, to be doomed - to be certain to fail or suffer, to envision - to imagine, fictitious - invented by a writer, futuristic - extremely modern and unusual in appearance, as if belonging to a future time, imaginary - existing only in your mind or imagination, nightmare; nightmarish - a dream that is very frightening or unpleasant; frightening, horrific, snooper state - a state that tries to find out private things about people, totalitarian state - a state in which there is only one political party that has complete power and control over the people, surveillance - the act of carefully watching a person or a place because they may be connected with crime, utopia; utopian - an imaginary place or state in which everything is perfect, visionary - with the ability to imagine how a country, society, etc. will develop in the future,

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allegory; allegorical - a story, painting, etc. in which the events and characters represent ideas or teach a moral lesson; a fictional text which has both a literal and figurative meaning.

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Los FUTUROS en INGLÉS | Will - Be Going to - P. Continuo - P. Simple | Gramática