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The Future of Wellness

The pandemic has reprioritised health and wellness for consumers. We examine the key issues that will shape the future of wellness in 2022 and beyond, from the use of psychedelics to healthcare-funded fitness to tackling youth anxiety and depression

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In 2020, Californians bought and wore 510,000 to 530,000 tons of clothing. Some 500,000 of those tons will eventually enter landfills-covering an area about 3.5 times the size of the City of Los Angeles. More than 97 percent of the textiles used in this clothing are virgin materials. Less than 1 percent of the materials worn today will resurface in clothing manufactured tomorrow.

Such waste requires transformative change. The key lies in circularity-specifically, in building a closed loop for recycling materials back into the manufacturing process, reducing both waste and reliance on natural resources.

To date, California has seen relatively little investment in (or research into the benefits of) closed-loop recycling of apparel, so progress on building collection, sorting, and recycling capacity to execute this process has remained limited. We launched this research to understand what effort building a closed-loop system in California will require, what stakeholders need to participate, and what initial impact the effort may have.

Our research shows that the effort promises to be very worthwhile.

California consumers want closed-loop recycling. Our survey results revealed the following:

Among surveyed consumers, 54 percent anticipate buying more clothes made with recycled materials.

Younger Californians (aged 18-24) report a willingness to pay a premium of almost 15 percent for clothes made with recycled materials.

Of surveyed consumers, 92 percent would participate in a brand-sponsored apparel-recycling program if offered the opportunity.

A fully closed-loop apparel-recycling system in California could potentially achieve a total holistic impact (economic, environmental, and social benefits) of $7 billion to $9 billion a year. These figures are based on our estimate of a total holistic impact of approximately $3.5 billion to $4.5 billion from closed-loop recycling of polyester, which represents nearly 50 percent of apparel textile fibers thrown away by Californians (exhibit). That translates into a holistic impact of $2.70 for every $1.00 spent. Scaled up across the United States, closed-loop apparel recycling could achieve a total holistic impact of $50 billion to $70 billion.

We identified eight core initiatives that could significantly advance fashion circularity for apparel made with polyester (100 percent or blended) in California and help unlock this holistic impact. Future efforts could build on these initiatives to address other textile materials:

Purchase recycled polyester to replace virgin polyester in apparel, probably at a premium, but with few other switching costs involved.

Promote and sell recycled apparel to shoppers, touting clothing "made with recycled polyester."

Partner with apparel manufacturers to collect preconsumer polyester waste, such as scraps and rejected apparel that manufacturers discard.

Partner with retail stores to collect preconsumer polyester waste, such as unsold garments that are typically thrown away if not diverted for low-cost resale or donation to employees.

Partner with existing collectors, such as donation or consignment stores, to divert postconsumer polyester waste that would otherwise be downcycled or sent abroad.

Introduce and scale curbside textile collection in Los Angeles, San Francisco, and select Bay Area counties because the high cost of curbside collection makes it most viable in densely populated metropolitan areas.

Build a highly automated facility to sort and deconstruct polyester textiles because the inability of recycling processes to handle more than one type of textile waste and the potential for unsorted waste to introduce contamination make sorting necessary.

Build a chemical recycling facility to process polyester textiles because using chemicals for recycling is critical to sustaining the quality of textile fiber over many iterations.

But any effort to build closed-loop recycling capacity faces a "catch 22"-the disconnect between the supply of and the demand for recycled materials. While benefits outweigh costs systemwide, both benefits and costs are distributed unevenly among stakeholders across the value chain. Unlocking the total holistic impact will require actions to level the playing field, such as forging public-private partnerships, enacting recycling-friendly policies, and encouraging vertical integration in the apparel industry.

The California apparel industry can start building closed-loop recycling capacity today to reduce waste and reliance on limited natural resources. We hope that this report will establish the opportunity at stake for textile circularity in California, as well as the actions stakeholders across the fashion industry can take to capture it. Furthermore, we hope this report can serve as the foundation for further research and action across other materials and geographies, catalyzing even more positive economic, environmental, and social benefits.

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Closing the loop: Increasing fashion circularity in California

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In 2020, Californians bought and wore 510,000 to 530,000 tons of clothing. Some 500,000 of those tons will eventually enter landfills-covering an area about 3.5 times the size of the City of Los Angeles. More than 97 percent of the textiles used in this clothing are virgin materials.

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Upcycling has been the biggest trend of spring/summer 2021, with the likes of Balenciaga (see the shaggy coat made from ' shoelace fur '), Marni (where patchworked outerwear was created from existing garments) and Coach (note the reworked 1970s bags) all exploring how they can reuse materials. Miu Miu, meanwhile, announced in October that it's launching a new Upcycled collection - an exclusive capsule of 80 one-off dresses, refashioned from antique pieces that have been carefully sourced from vintage stores and markets worldwide.

While young designers such as Priya Ahluwalia, Bethany Williams and Emily Adams Bode have made their names by repurposing textiles that already exist, seeing major luxury brands embracing the practice marks a significant shift within the industry. "The first time we used deadstock and talked about it was in 2017," Gabriela Hearst, whose SS21 collection contained 60 per cent upcycled pieces, tells Vogue via Zoom. "It was like using a bad word: 'You don't say that word in the luxury vocabulary.'"

But the restrictions imposed by the pandemic have led to designers turning to materials they already have to hand in the studio, instead of shipping in new fabrics. JW Anderson recently launched a new capsule collection, Made in Britain, comprising six pieces made purely out of leftover fabrics and trims from previous seasons. "Made in Britain came from this idea during lockdown of creating fashion from what we already had and working locally," creative director Jonathan Anderson, who has also upcycled pieces for Loewe's Eye/ Loewe/ Nature collection, explains. "I think we'll see more and more upcycling in the future."

The devastating effect of excess inventory

It's no surprise that more designers are now embracing upcycling, considering the pandemic has led to an eye-watering €140 billion to €160 billion (£125 billion to £142 billion) worth of excess inventory from spring/summer 2020 collections - more than double the average. In the past, unsold goods would have been burned or thrown away by luxury brands in a bid to preserve their value, as part of a shocking practice that has since been banned in France. As customers become increasingly conscious of wasteful behaviour, it's more essential than ever that the industry addresses this backlog of garments in a sustainable way.

Duran Lantink, who reassembles deadstock garments from brands including Gucci, Prada, and Off-White into new high-end pieces, has seen a rise in enquiries from major retailers and brands looking to collaborate with him since the pandemic began. "There's been a lot of interest," the Dutch designer says via a call from Amsterdam. "It's kind of scary at the moment - it's necessary for retailers to think about what to do with deadstock."

Naturally, eco-minded designers such as Hearst have taken the problem of excess inventory into their own hands. The New York-based designer recently created the exclusive Retro Fit collection for London's Selfridges using existing stock - think reworked cashmere, newly dyed shirt dresses and patchwork bucket bags. "When the stores were hit by the pandemic, we started to think, 'How can we reinvent the inventory that we already have?'" Hearst says.

A new way of working

There are, of course, challenges in factoring in upcycling into the design process. Marine Serre had to completely rethink her production timeline for spring/summer 2021 after realising it was taking much longer to fulfil orders for her upcycled pieces. "We started working on the garments for the SS21 collection in October 2019, making sure we would have had enough time to produce them properly without squeezing production time," the French designer told .

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Upcycling Is The Biggest Trend In Fashion Right Now

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Upcycling has been the biggest trend of spring/summer 2021, with the likes of Balenciaga (see the shaggy coat made from ' shoelace fur '), Marni (where patchworked outerwear was created from existing garments) and Coach (note the reworked 1970s bags) all exploring how they can reuse materials.

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' Sustainability' is, without question, the biggest buzzword in fashion at the moment. But with the threat of 'greenwashing' - using eco and sustainable terminology without doing the work to ensure verifiable benefit to the planet - on the rise, consumers are having to become more savvy about interrogating their purchases.

Upcycling clothes that already exist is one way to ensure sustainability, because it promotes the idea of circular fashion. To 'upcycle' is to take something already made and then improve upon it, or turn it into a fresh item, meaning that you're not seeking out new, raw materials to start from scratch. It means older clothes remain in circulation rather than heading to landfill.

There are, of course, plenty of ways to upcycle clothes yourself at home. But as the pressure to adopt sustainable practises increases, plenty of brands are also finding ways to introduce upcycling into their production process.

A rise in the use of deadstock and already existing fabrics has recently been embraced by many an upcoming designer. This means, using materials that would otherwise go to waste, pattern cut-offs, deadstock garments and limited runs of fabrics crying out for a second lease of life. So while it doesn't necessarily eliminate the fabrication of new clothes, it does mean that designers are creating collections whilst considering the life-cycle of their pieces.

So, what actually is deadstock?

In short, deadstock refers to leftover stock of a product, be it whole garments that haven't sold or leftover fabrics. Simple! This differs from sourcing vintage fabrics or second-hand pieces, because 'deadstock' means that they haven't previously been worn or even sold. Instead, you're looking at a brand new fabric or garment that never quite made it into stores, or did, but wasn't snapped up by a shopper to fulfil its fashion destiny.

An example for you is fashion label Reformation, who make their garments from rescued deadstock fabrics and upcycled clothing.

'Deadstock refers to leftover stock of a product'

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Why should it be used more?

It's estimated that over 100 billion, yes billion, garments are produced annually, and sadly not all of these will be worn over and over again. Hold onto your second-hand hats here people but, according to Clothes Aid, the UK sends a staggering 300,000 tonnes of wearable clothing to landfill every year. Which is enough to put you off your sexy new summer wardrobe.

Here is where Circular Fashion comes into play; reducing fashion industry waste and therefore the number of chemicals, water and greenhouse gasses produced when manufacturing fabrics. To give you a further idea of the magnitude of the problem, the fashion industry currently contributes around 10% of carbon emissions globally. This puts it on a par with agriculture.

Using deadstock textiles alone doesn't automatically make a brand sustainable, as the process of creating clothes is not waste-free, but it does help reduce the amount of material ending up in landfill.

Who is actually using deadstock fabrics?

The process is on the rise and upcoming designers are at the forefront of the practise. Emerging designer HRH, who debuted their Autumn Winter 2021 collection at London Fashion Week with Fashion East back in February, aims to use sustainable materials as often as possible. They use recycled plastic bottles for the fabric of their crossbody bags, for example.

Brooklyn based company ' Fabscrap ' is just one organisation taking advantage of this wasteful industry, collecting scrap fabrics from brands and designers and either recycling or redistributing and selling onto other artists, designers and creators.

Womenswear designer Conner Ives, whose fans include Rihanna of all people, uses only vintage and deadstock garments in his collections. Reworking and upcycling clothes to create his bright, patchwork, trademark dresses and t-shirts. The latest Autumn Winter collection features the 'Horse Girl' slip, a beautifully created bias cut scarf dress which includes your very own train that flips up to become a headscarf or shawl - CHIC!

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One of the most exciting new labels, Ahluwalia, works solely with deadstock fabrics.

'At Ahluwalia, we work with as much preexisting material as possible, we work like this because there is already so much that exists on the planet,' designer Priya Ahluwalia tells us.

'We can support the environment by adding value to things that would otherwise be sent to landfill. We also used recycled and organic fabrics. We are not perfect but we are trying our best.'

With so many emerging designers pushing the agenda, it was only a matter of time before the major fashion houses started to take note. This week the Mulberry X Ahluwalia collaboration launched. The vibrant capsule collection of scarves and re-imagined Portobello totes use only repurposed leathers, meaning each piece is available only in super limited quantities.

Shop The Ganni x Ahluwalia And Mulberry x Ahluwalia Collabs Now

Having launched menswear only for her past collections, Priya has also turned her hand to womenswear, launching a capsule collection with everyone's favourite label, Ganni.

'The process of choosing the surplus materials was really led by what Ganni actually had available and how much there was of each style and fabric. Then it was very instinctive, I started to pull the materials I resonated the most with. The key inspirations for the collection was the UK Garage scene, partying with my friends and the female form,' Ahluwalia tells ELLE on the process of getting the collaboration started.

Luxury fashion houses are, at long last, taking sustainable fashion seriously. There is still an enormous way to go, but we're heading in the right direction. As the availability of deadstock fabrics is limited, it means collections are a lot smaller and designers are releasing more capsule collections or made to order pieces. Queen of the nap dress Cecilie Bhansen launched the 'Encore' capsule last year, which uses leftover couture fabrics to create limited runs of dresses. And, for the sixth Encore capsule, available now, the garments will also be made-to-order, available for a limited time only until the last meters of fabric are used. It feels like an ode to the feelings of Cecilie's first collections and cherishes the brand's history.

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For Spring Summer 2021, Valentino collaborated with Levi's in re-editioning vintage styles made solely from upcycled 1970s jeans, each pair reinforced and rereleased with all new patches.

And they're not the only ones; Miu Miu recently announced a collaboration with Levi's, too. This capsule collection sees carefully selected, pre-loved jeans given a new lease of life. Each pair of 501s and tucker jackets are then embellished and decorated, by hand may we add, to give the perfect Miu Miu stamp.

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Well-worn denim has a charm that you just can't get with something box fresh. There is also no real reason to invest in a 100 per cent new pair of jeans when some of the most popular cuts were invented over 100 years ago. Case in point, the imitable Levi 501 jeans, created in 1873. That's right, nearly 150 years ago.

Denim aside, upcycling yarn is also becoming more popular. For the Autumn Winter 2021 collection, Australian brand Zimmermann has reused existing thread for all pieces of knitwear in the collection, while Gabriela Hearst, who showed her first collection for Chloé for Autumn Winter 2021, used upcycled cashmere in her knits and eliminated all synthetic fibres. Alongside the show, the fashion house outlined a series of sustainable objectives that they intend to reach by 2025.

While the use of deadstock fabrics is by no means a catch-all solution to the industry's grim issue of throwaway fashion, it is a step in the right direction. And with recent studies showing that over 50% of British consumers say they would be willing to pay more for sustainable fashion, surely it wont be long before retailers want a slice of the action?

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The Rise Of Deadstock Dressing: Designers Approach Upcycling The Chic Way

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' Sustainability' is, without question, the biggest buzzword in fashion at the moment. But with the threat of 'greenwashing' - using eco and sustainable terminology without doing the work to ensure verifiable benefit to the planet - on the rise, consumers are having to become more savvy about interrogating their purchases.

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Care-taking: say goodbye to hustle culture and hello to care culture as people prioritise wellbeing over work (WGSN insight)

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Analysis

The pandemic triggered a 25% spike in anxiety and depression globally, leading to a rise in demand for mental health services.

In early 2021, four in 10 adults in the US experienced symptoms of anxiety and depression. These rates are especially significant in marginalised groups, with 40% of Asian American and Pacific Islander LGBTQ youth in the US reporting higher levels of suicide attempts.

Companies and brands have a responsibility to be good brand citizens and help destigmatise mental health issues for consumers. Look to British chocolate brand Cadbury, which partnered with The Prince's Trust during Mental Health Awareness Week in May and made a spot titled Give A Doubt, aiming to normalise daily uncertainties and encourage people to open up. UK skincare label Skin Proud joined with Elyse Fox, founder of mental health community Sad Girls Club, and US artist Bunny Michael to launch a Twitter bot that promotes happiness, self-care and positivity to destigmatise mental health discussions.

Digital art and fashion collective EBIT (Enjoy Being in Transition) presented a virtual footwear collection in the metaverse, promoting mental health via art, fashion and music. It reflected how multifaceted mental health is and had 10 styles inspired by various conditions.

This report highlights how social media and the workplace are contributing to mental health issues and spotlights five strategies that brands embraced to facilitate conversations and debunk myths during Mental Health Awareness Month in 2022.

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Analysis

As the world starts to pick up speed again, younger generations are switching off their pre-pandemic autopilot tendencies and turning up their intentionality.

As noted in June 2022 by forecaster Sean Monahan, we are in the midst of a vibe shift – a moment in culture when things begin to change, and a once-dominant social wavelength starts to feel dated. This vibe shift in popular culture can also be described as the Fresh Start Effect. Explained by Dr Eva Krockow for Psychology Today, the effect is characterised by “temporal landmarks” which “can signal new beginnings and inspire big shifts in mindset,” as well as “offer a motivational push for making life changes previously thought impossible”.

Nostalgia was an ever-present emotion during the pandemic. Youth are not turning back as they step into a new world – instead, even as their lives get busier, they will carry greater intentionality into the future.

A 2021 study found less than half of young people reported living thoughtfully before the pandemic. However, as they look to the future, 64% predict they will be more intentional – a 36% increase from 2019.

Youth culture in 2022 will see a shift from scattered attention to intentional action. This new push toward intentionalism spans the subtle and significant choices that encompass every aspect of young consumers’ lives – from the products they purchase to the shows they stream, to their apparel, beauty choices and even their relationship to the internet.

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Resale has seen a massive rise in popularity in recent years, as people increasingly turn to secondhand and vintage in a bid to shop more sustainably, and to find a new home for those clothes in their closet that they no longer want. And while it was predominantly younger consumers who were behind the initial boom, it's clear that shoppers of all ages are now getting in on the act.

The RealReal's 2022 Luxury Consignment Report reveals that it's seen increased numbers of sellers from all generations on its site. The biggest trend to note? The idea of "selling it forward" - with Gen X selling on their '90s and Noughties pieces to Gen Z, who can't get enough of vintage right now. In fact, Gen X has sold 37 per cent more pieces from the '90s in the past year, while Gen Z has invested in 61 per cent more '90s pieces on The RealReal.

"Gen Z are taking particular interest in vintage favourites once loved by Gen X, effectively driving up the resale value for styles like the Fendi Baguette, Louis Vuitton Pochette, and the Dior Saddle bag," Hillary O'Malley, senior merchandise manager at The RealReal tells Vogue.

Demand for vintage Jean Paul Gaultier - undoubtedly boosted by A-list fans such as Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner - and Thierry Mugler has gone up by 70 per cent in the past year, while pre-loved Vivienne Westwood, Prada and Missoni pieces are also on the rise among Gen Z-ers. "Outside of these quintessential brands, we've also noticed a return of era-specific designs like Tom Ford's Yves Saint Laurent and Miu Miu's debut aesthetics," O'Malley adds.

LA-based consultant Serena Morris, who runs the Instagram account @shes__underrated, describes the idea of selling it forward as a "beautiful thing". She says: "It's really exciting that fashion has become so circular and has developed into wearable experiences that are being shared through generations. You can feel the emotional connectivity and intention towards the process of selling and shopping which makes me feel like we're all developing a deeper sense of appreciation and gratitude for the things we own."

Indeed, Morris herself has taken part in the sort of cross-generational fashion swaps that are now so common on The RealReal. "I recently got a 2005 Louis Vuitton mini denim pleaty bag from The RealReal that I have been wanting since I was a teenager," she says. "To me the bag is super symbolic of an era in fashion and music - particularly in hip hop - that really helped shape the formative years of discovering myself and exploring my style. The bag makes me feel like I'm in a 2000s Hype Williams[-directed] video when I wear it!"

While Gen Z-ers say that resale allows them to invest in pieces they wouldn't otherwise be able to afford, sustainability is a driving factor across different generations. "We found that 43 per cent of our customers attribute sustainability as motivation to shop with The RealReal, and 40 per cent say they are consciously seeking to extend the lifecycle of luxury items," O'Malley comments. "It's incredible to see such a strong, universal motivator among generations that are seemingly different."

Given the theory that fashion trends reappear every 20 years, it's no surprise we've been seeing a late '90s and early Noughties resurgence of late. Happily, it's also in alignment with our growing environmental concerns, too. "The brands we carry have multiple lives," O'Malley concludes. "If there is something in your closet that no longer sparks joy in you, pass it on. In doing so, [you're] extending the life of luxury, keeping items out of landfill and in circulation, and sparking joy for its next owner."

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Why "Selling It Forward" Is The Biggest Trend In Resale Right Now

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The RealReal's 2022 Luxury Consignment Report found that Gen X are selling their vintage '90s and Noughties pieces to Gen Z. The resale trends report also found vintage Fendi Baguette bags, Dior Saddle bags and Louis Vuitton Pochette bags are growing in value.

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Second-hand clothing is expected to become a major trend in the coming years as consumers increasingly bought used clothing during the last few years. Consumers were primarily attracted to the second-hand clothing market because of the reasonable pricing and more recently because of being conscious of the impact of fast fashion. In the US, the second-hand clothing market currently (2021) operates almost equally through thrift shops & charities and resale through various online platforms and was valued at almost $36 billion at the end of 2021. By 2025, its resale market is expected to grow much faster than thrift and charities in the US (total valued at $77 billion), considering two things - more Gen Z consumers move to second-hand clothing, and resale online platforms increase their reach. The market in Europe for second-hand clothes was estimated at around €13 billion in 2019, is now valued at close to €34 billion at the end of 2021 and is expected to see much stronger growth.

Selling second-hand or worn clothing is not new. The informal economy for a very long time provided avenues to supply used clothes from sellers to interested buyers. On the other hand, there have always been individuals who preferred to buy second-hand clothes primarily due to their reasonable prices, particularly for those who couldn't afford to frequently buy new clothes, until very recently. The sustainable aspect of this market has also been very recent. However, it is not hard to imagine that the second-hand clothing market depends on the already existing produce and its future growth in fresh produce. The question worth asking then is whether 'resale-at-scale' provides a valuable solution to existing problems of waste in the fashion industry. Not that this question hasn't been asked before. It has perhaps been answered variedly by many experts who would have a much greater understanding of the industry. But the answer is surely not definite and straightforward.

One very problematic aspect of expecting a booming second-hand clothing market (as revealed by some studies conducted recently) is also to presume a booming supply of new clothes in the market. Essentially, resale platforms rely heavily on individual sellers to sell their used clothing. Major fashion brands have either launched their resale platforms or tied up with existing online platforms to get their consumers to sell used clothes. While it is noble to provide a platform to sell used clothes which would have otherwise gone to the dumps, this approach doesn't stop fashion brands from producing new clothes at the current rate. Also, fashion brands with their resale platforms implicitly provide greater incentives if customers choose to buy more clothing instead of just taking the money from the sale.

Similarly, independent resale platforms where individual sellers list their used clothing directly, the point of concern is whether all clothes attract a buyer and after how many uses, would a piece of garment not receive buyers. If sellers only sold those clothes which become unfashionable for them, and buyers only buy what they considered relatively new in fashion, isn't it highly likely that many of the garments won't ever attract buyers? As increasingly more clothes come into resale, the amount of unsold inventory might go up even further, which would eventually go to waste. A more cynical argument forwarded in this context is that with an organised resale market in place, fast fashion brands might have no incentives to cut back on their production rates.

A very strong argument that has helped aggressively boost the used clothing market is that a piece of used garment reduces demand for a similar new garment and hence prevents the resource use for its production. Yes, that is perhaps the truest of them all. But even then, the market itself doesn't change consumer's preference to always seek more. In contrast to that, there are now more options available to a consumer, with an even greater disparity in pricing. The stigma of used clothing may have been overcome in the US at least, but that has not curbed the inclination to always keep buying.
Do economic conditions determine the demand for used clothing?
Fashion is also very cyclical like many other sectors in the economy, and fashion trends depend heavily on how the broader economy is performing, or at least the perception of it. Preference for used clothing would depend on it even more. It has been recorded historically post several periods of the economic recession that spending on clothing is reduced drastically since individual's finances are hit severely. This is the time when they have historically preferred to buy more used clothing. Figure 2 shows how during the period of the boom (2002-06), US exports of worn clothing stagnated while its imports of apparel kept riding higher. It is only when the growth slowed down in 2007 and during and after the recession in 2008-09, that these exports shot up again. Exports of used clothing from the US remained fairly high during the decade 2010-2019.

During and perhaps sometime after the Global Financial Crisis in 2008-09 consumers either spent less on clothing or spent more on second-hand clothes or discount retailers, giving more fuel to the era of fast fashion. The discount trend has stuck so much with the consumers that it has continued since then. Evidently, then there has been a slump in overall spending on clothing (Figure 1), especially in the US where economic growth in the last decade remained fairly muted. This is evident from the growth in sales of clothing stores in the US during the decade 2011-19 relative to the previous two decades (accounting for the two recession years in 2001-10). Clothing sales (in USD terms) during 2011-19 grew only by an average of 2.4 per cent as compared to 4.6 per cent average growth during 2001-10 (counting out 2008 and 2009).
Figure 1: Clothing store sales in the US

This could imply three things-1) overall volume demand for clothing didn't grow as much in the last decade compared to previous decades, 2) clothing demand increased in volume, but consumers moved to buy cheaper clothes (fast fashion) or 3) consumers bought more used clothes during the last decade than they did ever. All three are partially true. In times of duress, it's not that individuals don't shop for clothes, but shop for bargains. Individuals would save money even where they didn't earlier. The appeal of used clothes (very reasonably priced, high-quality goods) becomes even larger in these times. The supply of used clothes also increases during times of economic stress, as individuals scramble to get cash from anywhere possible. It is not without reason that the resale market is known to be recession-proof. The Association of Resale Professionals in the US put out a press release in July 2015, that precisely mentions this aspect of the resale fashion

But as the impact of the pandemic waned, the demand for new clothes jumped up significantly in 2021 to surpass pre-pandemic levels. Simultaneously, demand for pre-owned clothing went up on resale platforms, that are closer in nature to trendy e-commerce platforms than their more conventional versions, the thrift shops. US total imports of apparel and exports of worn clothing both shot up in 2021, indicating that as trendy as buying second-hand clothes became, more and more volumes of clothing flooded the market, and more and more clothing perhaps went to landfills. It is not very hard to assume that the volumes of used clothes exported from the US would be much higher than the numbers sold online, while the dollar value of the former would understandably be lower.

From an economic perspective, therefore, it is perhaps hard to say what will happen to the demand for used clothing going forward. Although, if the supply of new clothing continues to see similar growth, the used market will also see a strong uptick. The presence of online resale platforms has surely ensured that individuals buy and sell used clothing irrespective of income levels.
Figure 2: Clothing imports and exports of worn clothing - United States Can used clothing demand lead to an increase in the supply of new clothes?
But assuming that resale platforms do grow as they promise, the real question is how close it is to solve the issue of waste. On the face of it, there are certain aspects to the recent hike in the preference for second-hand clothing that may not hint at the sustainability side of this market. Many re-sellers on the online resale platforms particularly go shopping in thrift shops to pick trendy pieces to be sold for hefty prices later on. The fact that prices of used clothing on resale platforms are dramatically higher than those available in thrift shops and search costs are lower, attracted many to sell their old designer clothes for quick and good cash. There are largely sold as rarity, a piece of great expected value available cheap. Going by the label 'vintage', the used clothes market on online platforms is now flooded with similar pieces of clothing but priced very differently.

The key aspect here is the utility of buying used clothes. Generally, the second-hand clothing market is for individuals who are constrained to buy new. In lower-income countries, the second-hand clothing market is a way to aspire wearing branded clothes but at very reasonable prices. However, local, and sometimes fast fashion options are equally good. Owning a used item as 'vintage' has an altogether different underlying sentiment. The purchase is not for use, but of an asset, with perhaps the expectation that it will be priced even higher later on. Or perhaps to collect a rare item. In addition, the 'vintage' items are usually the luxury clothing pieces that were limited edition and therefore, limited in quantity. It is the fast-fashion clothing that neither sells as a rarity on the resale platforms nor is often suitable for more than one use.

The reports available on second-hand resale statistics also mention that a large proportion of customers desire fresh styles frequently, making the trend counter-productive and the exact opposite of what sustainability would conventionally mean.

But these are not even the biggest issues with this market. The very fact that search costs for used clothing will increasingly become lower and prices of used clothing have been spiked up, will not just increase demand for used clothing dramatically but lead to a very interesting outcome eventually. In her 2003 paper on the same subject, Valerie Thomas argues that the above two factors (search cost and price of used goods) lead to various relations between second-hand and new goods markets2. Declining search costs and high resale prices would eventually lead to no waste of used goods and the supply of used goods would come only from the new goods market. This is precisely what we might expect for the resale clothing market as well. The presence of online platforms has dramatically lowered the cost to look for used clothing (catering more to Gen Z) and the pricing of these products is expected to be higher than if sold conventionally.

Not all used clothes go on sale in thrift stores. A large proportion of the used clothing is exported to lower-income countries from the US and Europe. Barring this piling waste, there is also tremendous amounts of clothing that goes unsold in thrift stores and the offline resale market. Suppose some of this unsold inventory at thrift stores gets sold on online platforms. At some point in time, two things will most likely happen. The supply of trendy clothes coming from thrift stores will decline (assuming no new supply goes to thrift), and the used clothes market will then depend on the new clothes market to fuel its growth.

Very simply, the resale-at-scale model is perhaps not the best way to reduce waste in the industry. Resale is not entirely circular, but perhaps a smaller loop in a linear model. Each product has a definite life and would eventually be discarded after any number of uses. The key issue is about complementing re-using with reducing the supply of new. Unless the focus is fully on the latter, can we be sure of how sustainable the industry could become?

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second-hand clothing market for apparel and fashion industry

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clothing imports and exports of worn clothing in united states 2021

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demand of second hand clothing for consumers

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Used-clothing Trend - Is it a Promising Way to Reduce Waste

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Used clothing market has existed since a long time. Only recently has its demand become mainstream through online resale platforms. Resale is being seen a vital aspect of sustainability, but not without its critics. There are valid concerns that resale-at-scale could lead to more new clothing than less. Could that be so?

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In 2022, every fashion brand will have to offer a 360° resale option to their clients. This means offering a take-back scheme as well as a pre-loved section on their websites and in-store. The reason: they are now dealing with a different type of customer with new demands.

Consumers now want to consume less and make better choices when they purchase items. According to the Boston Consulting Group, second-hand clothes are projected to make up 27 per cent of customers' wardrobes by 2023, while 70 per cent admitted thinking about taking better care of the products they purchase thanks to the resale market. This new way of shopping is more conscious of the environment and human rights, but at the same time, consumers will still want to
own unique and attractive apparel.

The fashion industry puts the planet under immense pressure. Clothing consumption is set to rise by 63 per cent between now and 2030, according to Pulse Report, which monitors sustainability in fashion. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) has also found that we wear our clothes 40 per cent less than ten years ago. The new customer understands this and is embracing resale instead. Our own research has shown that buying a handbag second-hand rather than opting for new can reduce its environmental impact by up to 91 per cent. According to the EMF, increasing an item's lifetime by just nine months decreases its environmental impact by 30-40 per cent.

In addition, a greater awareness of employment conditions in some garment factories has made consumers even more averse to cheap, wear-once fashion.

This shift to sustainable living will continue to grow. It will benefit all stakeholders, providing loyalty and a new acquisition channel for brands, as well as a more affordable, value-based option for customers. It also provides brands with a powerful opportunity to boost their image through strong sustainability credentials. Plus, it makes economic sense. After the lockdowns of 2020-21, customers are starting to spend money on travel and going out again, and this will present a financial challenge to the first-hand fashion market.

Up to now, brands have been aware of their customers' drive towards sustainability, but they are only beginning to understand that this represents a fundamental change in the way people want to shop.

Luxury brands in particular have a powerful opportunity to associate resale with the quality of their pieces, which are made to stand the test of time. The high-quality materials and detailed workmanship that they trade on ensure that items maintain good condition and decent resale value season after season. Offering a resale option to their customers will soon become standard practise.

Resale today is a similar phenomenon to e-commerce in the 1990s, which was also underestimated to begin with. Today, those companies that have embraced e-commerce fully are thriving. Those that did not are struggling or have already disappeared. In 2022, we will see a similar transformation of the sector as brands and organisations that ignore the new customer's needs will slowly but surely lose to their more perceptive competitors.

Get more expert predictions for the year ahead. The WIRED World in 2022 features intelligence and need-to-know insights sourced from the smartest minds in the WIRED network. Available now on newsstands, as a digital download, or you can order your copy online.

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Why the Fashion Resale Market Is Here to Stay

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In 2022, every fashion brand will have to offer a 360° resale option to their clients. This means offering a take-back scheme as well as a pre-loved section on their websites and in-store. The reason: they are now dealing with a different type of customer with new demands.

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If workout clothes take up more space in your closet than ever before, the biggest 2022 activewear trends are sure to pique your interest. Pieces like leggings, sports bras, and biker shorts never seem to get old for gym clothes enthusiasts, whether you get in movement five days a week or purely like the look and feel of stretchy attire.

Jennifer Bandier, founder of the boutique Bandier, tells TZR how activewear has gone from a considered part of one's wardrobe to a foundation category. "That's not changing in 2022," she says. However, after the last two years, with more reason and desire to dress up again, activewear trends are going beyond workouts, evolving to what Bandier describes as 'athluxe.' "Think activewear meets luxury," she says, such as pairing workout sets with elevated footwear, cashmere, and blazers.

Echoing Bandier, Shopbop's Fashion Director Caroline Maguire tells TZR that while people return to their pre-pandemic workout routines, the fully-dressed urge with everyday outfits extends to activewear,driving a desire to shop more trend-driven activewear. "People are having fun with [activewear], incorporating bold fashion items into their workout looks," she says. Think cozy winter boots and a shearling coat atop leggings and a tank top to and from a workout class. Or, a button-down shirt styled with a sports bra, biker shorts, and sandals post-yoga flow. "These [combinations] make you both look great and feel good," Maguire adds. Similarly, confidence-boosting is the workout catsuit, which Bandier says will become more prevalent in 2022.

But, while activewear seeps into outfits unintended for a sweat, brands still focus on performance-driven designs in 2022. Aesthetics, like new fabrics, colors, and modern silhouettes, are, indeed, more heavily emphasized. But priority elements like four-way stretch and moisture-wicking materials, innovative sports bras for support, seamless silhouettes, and compression fabrics all abound this year.

Keep reading for the five biggest activewear trends in 2022, and shop the edit to get your gym (and leisure) looks on point.
We only include products that have been independently selected by TZR's editorial team. However, we may receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.
The Bold Matching Set

A staple for exercise and leisure moments, matching workout sets will all but slow down in 2022. Muted earth tones still abound. However, the most exciting new versions come brighter and printed, including warm red and orange tones and logo motifs. "All Access just introduced a new color called 'fiery red,' which our customer loved," Bandier tells TZR, also highlighting the signature bold tones and prints by Lapp the Brand, a new label carried by the boutique.

"I love the fun of mixing and matching, but the idea of throwing on a same-print top and bottom is easy while giving your look a more put-together feel," says Maguire of 2022's matching set trend highlighting Splits59's vibrant assortment among her favorites. "Good American Essentials will also spice up your gym look with bold sets and the perfect fitting cropped tanks, offering a great range of extensive sizing options as well," she adds.

A Long Line Bra

Sports bras are a workout wardrobe staple, not to mention a buzzy look to be worn with coordinating leggings and shorts. But for 2022, lines are elongating for a refreshed look. "Part crop top, part sports bra, this [silhouette] offers move coverage while letting [customers] flaunt their hard work," says Bandier.

Similarly, Maguire says the in-between bra and tank shape is "the perfect fit for when you want to show a little skin" without feeling too bare. Wear yours outside the gym with bottoms of all kinds - low-rise cargos and jeans, waist-skimming skirts, or slouchy shorts.

Ribbed Fabrics

Bandier and Maguire both highlight ribbed fabrics as the material du jour in 2022. "We just launched 'Sport Rib' in the All Access collection with great success," Bandier reveals. "[The fabric] provides such incredible function while also offering visual interest and texture.

The material is a signature of the It label, Year Of Ours, which Maguire ranks among her favorites. "[They're] perfect to wear when you're on the go and don't have time to change from the gym," she tells TZR. "I wear these 24/7, either leaning into the monochrome trend and layering the same colors together or throwing on an oversized blazer and some chunky jewelry to give my look a more polished feel before [working out]."

Y2K Silhouettes

The wide-spread Y2K-fueled cut-out trend extends to activewear in 2022. "We're seeing this look everywhere right now," says Maguire. The fashion director points to Alo's sleek and satiny fabrics as a masterful way to wear this trend. "Their glossy leggings and monochrome zip-ups definitely elevate gym attire," Maguire says. The brand also translates other recent fashion trends into their cut-out designs, such as asymmetrical necklines and split-hem leggings. Yoga pants are another '00s activewear trend continuing in 2022 - it's undoubtedly worth a go if you're not a leggings person. Plus, cinched and ruched detailing, particularly on tops.

The Catsuit

According to Bandier, the one-and-done catsuit is transitioning from a microtrend favored by early adopters to a unanimous look for 2022. "It allows for ease of movement, and it's impossibly chic," says the boutique owner, highlighting Le Ore and one of her favorite brands that continues to reinvent the look. Try a cropped or romper silhouette if a full-length look isn't for you. Styling tip if a one-piece feels too exposed: Try a pair of shorts layered on top for extra coverage and dimension. So retro.

Join The Zoe Report's exclusive email list for the latest trends, shopping guides, celebrity style, and more.

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Yep - Y2K Mania Now Extends to Activewear

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If workout clothes take up more space in your closet than ever before, the biggest 2022 activewear trends are sure to pique your interest. Pieces like leggings, sports bras, and biker shorts never seem to get old for gym clothes enthusiasts, whether you get in movement five days a week or purely like the look and feel of stretchy attire.

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The Next Normal – The future of wellness

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The wellness industry is booming—and consumers intend to keep spending more on products that improve their health, fitness, nutrition, appearance, sleep, and mindfulness.

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https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/the-next-normal/wellness

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The Next Normal – The future of wellness

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The wellness industry is booming—and consumers intend to keep spending more on products that improve their health, fitness, nutrition, appearance, sleep, and mindfulness.